# Accuracy/Floating Barell???



## flatheadpatrol (Aug 30, 2012)

I have a Ruger M77 .308 that is about 30 years old. I've noticed a lack of tight groups at the range over the last few years even shooting in a vice. 
It is evident that the barell is touching/resting on one side(edge) of the fore end/stock at the end (utilizing the dollar bill trick). I broke the rifle down and also noticed a spot on the under side of the barell where the bluing has rubbed off from the wood/stock's contact with it due to a little bump/knott in the wood. 
My question is should I begin to lightly sand those areas down to eliminate the contact?    
Please help.


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## geordie (Aug 30, 2012)

First off, I would get a good copper solvent and spend several hours and many patches cleaning the bore also tighten all the scope mount and ring screws. When you reassemble the rifle tighten the front bedding screw first, then the rear. Go to the range. If your groups improve the only thing else I would do is get some plain Johnson's wax and seal the barrel channel. If you still do not like the groups you can remove wood with sandpaper wrapped around a dowell. This is a try and fit deal so go slow and check often. After you have floated the barrel shoot and see . Seal the wood with wax if you are happy with the groups.If not, try shimming the front of the barrel to get a small amount of upward pressure. I know this is time consuming as I have been down this road myself.
Best of luck.


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## flatheadpatrol (Aug 30, 2012)

Geordie, 
I've given it a good reaming with bore cleaner in the past. Maybe I'll start with that as you suggested.
Thanks


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## markland (Aug 30, 2012)

try some copper fouling specific cleaner in the barrel as well, you would not believe how much copper fouling can accumulate over time that does not get removed with normal cleaning.  I have a old Rem 308 that barely shot decent for me, but after several rounds of copper cleaning, along with a new fully floated synthetic stock, got a 1 1/2in group at 200yds with that gun and it shoots like a dream now.  Best copper fouling remover I used is Shooters Choice Copper Remover, did a much better job then the Hoppe's Bench Rest I had used before.


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## Forest Grump (Aug 30, 2012)

Most sporters, & specifically Ruger 77's, shoot best with light contact at the very end of the stock; that's why they make them that way (if you think about it, it would be easier for the factory to free float them, as the router could just follow a straight line). The spot further back that you noted, is different. If your rifle shot different in humid weather, or your groups walked when hot, free floating would be a good idea. I'd do what the other guys suggested first; if you float it & it doesn't group as well, it's darn hard to put it back like it was. Look also in the action area; sometimes over time wood gets compressed back there from all the firing & doesn't fit like it used to: glass bedding or a synthetic replacement stock will solve that. 
I like the shooter's choice better than Hoppe's too.


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## Yotedawg (Aug 30, 2012)

If your Ruger shot tight groups years ago and now accuracy has fallen off, it's not because the barrel needs floating. The barrel wasn't floated years ago when it shot well. If your rifle has a thin sporter barrel, chances are it could shoot worse if you float it. Those thin barrels tend to do better with some pressure on them. I would seriously take the advice given here on cleaning the barrel. A good copper solvent such as the Shooters Choice or Sweets 7.62, or Butch's Boreshine will attack the copper and dissolve it. If you have done regular cleaning but not used a solvent specifically for removing copper, then you could have 30 years worth built up there. If it were mine I would do this first and go from there.


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## jglenn (Aug 31, 2012)

clean the barrel as suggested

wood absorbs moisture and will warp over the years, so pressure on the barrel can change. if the barrel cleaning doesn't help I'd look at the stock


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## flatheadpatrol (Sep 7, 2012)

Thanks folks!


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