# Boiled linseed or Tru-Oil?



## foxwatcher (Feb 17, 2016)

I have a 1950's 22 that I would like to refinish the stock on. I hear people speak on both, what have you used and what are the end-product differences?

I'm not trying to get scratches out (they add character), just really want to give it a nice seal and some gloss.  It didn't come with sling studs, so I carry it when I squirrel hunt...all those years of perspiration from my hand have  left a haze on the pistol grip and part of the foream.


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## NCHillbilly (Feb 17, 2016)

The Tru-oil will give you a lot better moisture protection than boiled linseed oil. I've used it a lot on bows. It has a nice gloss, too.


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## foxwatcher (Feb 17, 2016)

NCHillbilly said:


> The Tru-oil will give you a lot better moisture protection than boiled linseed oil. I've used it a lot on bows. It has a nice gloss, too.


Thanks, that's what I'm leaning towards.


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## Hooty Hoot (Feb 17, 2016)

I think Tru-Oil is just boiled linseed oil with a hardener in it.


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## foxwatcher (Feb 17, 2016)

Hooty Hoot said:


> I think Tru-Oil is just boiled linseed oil with a hardener in it.



I just looked that up and apparently it does, along with some tung oil in it as well.


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## NCHillbilly (Feb 17, 2016)

It is linseed oil based, but there is a world of difference between them.


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## godogs57 (Feb 17, 2016)

NCHillbilly said:


> It is linseed oil based, but there is a world of difference between them.



Exactly. Boiled linseed oil, by itself, is a rather sorry finish for wood. Technically, it is very slow drying, if it ever dries 100% at all. Moisture protection is at the low end of the scale. 

Tru Oil, like others have said, incorporates tung oil plus "driers" in the forumla, which makes it a totally different product. I've refinished between 250 and 300 gun stocks and love the "Tru Oil product. Others that work good are Permalyn and Gun Sav'r Oil finish (made by Chem Pak). All are available from Brownells. 

Remember with any of these finishes, use as thin a coat as you can and allow to dry fully!


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## foxwatcher (Feb 17, 2016)

godogs57 said:


> Exactly. Boiled linseed oil, by itself, is a rather sorry finish for wood. Technically, it is very slow drying, if it ever dries 100% at all. Moisture protection is at the low end of the scale.
> 
> Tru Oil, like others have said, incorporates tung oil plus "driers" in the forumla, which makes it a totally different product. I've refinished between 250 and 300 gun stocks and love the "Tru Oil product. Others that work good are Permalyn and Gun Sav'r Oil finish (made by Chem Pak). All are available from Brownells.
> 
> Remember with any of these finishes, use as thin a coat as you can and allow to dry fully!


Thanks for the detailed post! I might be PMing you here soon.


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## godogs57 (Feb 19, 2016)

foxwatcher said:


> Thanks for the detailed post! I might be PMing you here soon.



That's fine. Have a good weekend.


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## Walker44 (Feb 20, 2016)

BOILED Linseed oil ---- Buddy did a m1 carbine in Tru Oil  Looks shinny and cheap ----------- I did mine in BLO  looks great
The rule of thumb for BLO----- once a day for a week
once a week for a month
Once a month for a year
Once a year after that
Guess I am a purist


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## Anvil Head (Feb 21, 2016)

Another problem with BLO is BO. Even a human can smell it if they are down wind. Animals are much more sensitive olfactory wise.


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## dtala (Feb 21, 2016)

gun stocks, and most other woods, I use Tru-oil. Heavy hand rubbed on the first coat, sanded back to wood. 4-5 light hand rubbed coats, 0000 steel wool rubbing between coats. 

Final in epoxy/acetone finish, hand applied and rubbed. 3-4 coats with 0000 rubbing between coats. The epoxy finish is 100X stronger and protective than Tru-oil alone. Best of both worlds.

my trophy room bar top of walnut, finished as stated above...


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## foxwatcher (Feb 21, 2016)

dtala said:


> gun stocks, and most other woods, I use Tru-oil. Heavy hand rubbed on the first coat, sanded back to wood. 4-5 light hand rubbed coats, 0000 steel wool rubbing between coats.
> 
> Final in epoxy/acetone finish, hand applied and rubbed. 3-4 coats with 0000 rubbing between coats. The epoxy finish is 100X stronger and protective than Tru-oil alone. Best of both worlds.
> 
> my trophy room bar top of walnut, finished as stated above...


Gorgeous! Yes, TruOil gets the nod judging by consensus. I personally love the glossy look on a rifle. 700BDL and Model 70XTR's are some sexy rifles.  The only thing that looks better to me is a glossy maple stock.


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## MCBUCK (Mar 15, 2016)

I used BLO on an old Marlin 336 and it looked great. Nice low lust lustre oiled looking finish, but I think you can get the same look with Tru Oil if you buff with some 000 steel wool.


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## duckbill (Mar 26, 2016)

I have to give Tru Oil the thumbs up, as well.  I've tried the BLO and wasn't as happy with results.


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## cloudwarmer (Oct 11, 2016)

godogs57 said:


> Exactly. Boiled linseed oil, by itself, is a rather sorry finish for wood. <snip>



Way back when I was in military academy in the early 60s, we had .03s and M1s. We had to do the linseed oil thing on the stocks each year. Hated the feel of them afterward. Too sticky.

I really like the way tongue oil comes out. Just a few coats makes it sorta matte finish, adding more seems to add more gloss to it. 

I use it on the teak on my sailboat too. It lasts a season of southern sun.


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## killerv (Nov 17, 2016)

Formby's tung oil, can get it at Lowes


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