# Husqvarna chainsaw will not start?



## fireman32 (Dec 29, 2014)

I've got a Husqvarna 55 Rancher chainsaw, I was sawing a log the other day and it shut off, I restarted it and it shut off again, and would not restart.
It seemed to not be getting fuel, and I couldn't find a decent rebuild kit for the carb. so I replaced it with a factory original. It has good spark, but even pouring fuel through the carb. or into the spark plug hole it will not run.  It will fire for a second or twoevery 20th pull, and it doesn't seem to be getting fuel to the carb.  The fuel line appears to be okay.
Any suggestions besides shooting with my .44
The saw is 7 years old, and has never giving me a problem until now.


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## rjcruiser (Dec 29, 2014)

Before you shoot it ..take it to a small engine repair shop.


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## The Longhunter (Dec 29, 2014)

Did you replace the air filter when you replaced the carb?

What does the plug look like when you have pulled it off 20 times?


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## Wycliff (Dec 30, 2014)

What does the fuel filter in the tank look like. The fuel lines can get small cracks in them in places that you can't see. I would just replace them their cheap and not to hard to replace


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## fireman32 (Dec 30, 2014)

Thanks, spark plug  was staying a bit dry until I poured fuel into the head. I just checked the fuel filter it seems fine, but there are two small cracks in the fuel line at the rubber grommet just before the tank.  They don't appear to be holes, but I will surely replace it. Hope it's as simple as that.  I'll let you know, thanks again.


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## 7Mag Hunter (Dec 30, 2014)

Fuel lines, filter and primer bulb.....

$20.00-$25.00 should fix u up......If u do it yourself....

I assume you did try a new spark plug ??


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## erniesp (Dec 30, 2014)

It is sucking air. Replace all the fuel lines, the grommet, and the inner tank filter. Use fresh gas and fire it right up.


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## dieselengine9 (Dec 30, 2014)

Sometimes there is a breather in the fuel cap that can get stopped up as well.


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## Dana Young (Dec 30, 2014)

If it has been sitting a while dirt dabbers can and will build anest in the muffler.
I worked for a full day trying to get my weed eater to run . it was doing the same thing. I finally checked the muffler and it had a dirt dabber nest in it cleaned it out and it cranked and ran perfect on the first pull


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## fireman32 (Dec 30, 2014)

Picked up a fuel line and spark plug, I'll put it on when I get off work. No dirt dobbers, I've been down that road. And yep, I'm a cheap do it myselfer. Can't stand to pay somebody for something I can do or learn how to do myself. Even if it winds up costing me more money.


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## Wild Turkey (Dec 30, 2014)

i'd bet fuel line or fuel return line sucking air.


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## NE GA Pappy (Dec 30, 2014)

x432 on the fuel line 

the alkeyhaul in fuel now will ruin them pronto.  try to buy fuel with no alkeyhaul in it.

I do for all my small engines and boat


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## fireman32 (Dec 30, 2014)

new plug, new carburetor, new coil, has and is getting fuel and spark, new fuel line. It will not start.


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## fireman32 (Dec 30, 2014)

Wild Turkey said:


> i'd bet fuel line or fuel return line sucking air.



I'll have to check into this fuel return line, haven't found it yet.


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## mattech (Dec 30, 2014)

a small engine needs fuel/air and spark. not much else. did you say you put a new carb on it?


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## mattech (Dec 30, 2014)

the few times I have seen a bad fuel line, it will crank and idle, but as soon as you touch the throttle it dies. have you sprayed starting fluid in and try to crank it?


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## SGADawg (Dec 30, 2014)

Since you have ruled out most other things, I would suspect the reed valve,between the carb and the crankcase.  If it doesn't close you will get no fuel/air mix into the cylinder.

On a 2-stroke, fuel is pulled through the carb/reed valve as the piston moves up.  On the downstroke of the piston the reed valve closes and fuel/air is pressurized  in the cranckase until the piston passes the intake port in the cylinder.  Then fuel/air is pushed into the cylinder. If the reed valve doesn't close, the fuel/air in the cranckase won't pressurize, therefore, no fuel/air into the cylinder.

Reed valves aren't usually the problem but you seem to have ruled out most other options.


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## fireman32 (Jan 1, 2015)

Think I found the problem.


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## 7Mag Hunter (Jan 1, 2015)

fireman32 said:


> Think I found the problem.




Oh NO !!!!!! Any idea what caused it?
Maybe lean oil/gas mixture ????

www.baileysonline.com
has a pretty good inventory of internal engine parts....
Good company to deal with, i buy chain loops from them........


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## fireman32 (Jan 1, 2015)

I'm guessing lean gas. Parts are on the way, to bad there isn't a local Husqvarna dealer close by.


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## 7Mag Hunter (Jan 1, 2015)

fireman32 said:


> I'm guessing lean gas. Parts are on the way, to bad there isn't a local Husqvarna dealer close by.




There is Husky dealer in Hiram where i buy my 2 cycle oil and they suggest using high test gas (no ethanol) or using a bit more oil  in your gas ....


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## Backlasher82 (Jan 1, 2015)

fireman32 said:


> I'm guessing lean gas. Parts are on the way, to bad there isn't a local Husqvarna dealer close by.



There's a good chance the seizure is ethanol related. That junk causes fuel lines to crack and leak or collapse and starve the motor, attract water into the tank, gum up and/or corrode the carb, etc, etc.   

Ethanol is terrible in small engines, and not real good in big ones.


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## Bilge Rat LT 20 (Jan 10, 2015)

If that is the intake side of the piston you have a lean seize, a hole in the fuel line or intake boot or impulse line. They will add air leaning the mixture causing more heat.

OR you straight gassed it, no oil.
Use 40:1 mixture, it protects better. EPA is the reason for 50:1.

The impulse line comes off the crankcase, it drives/acts as the fuel pump in the carb.

When you clean the carb put it in an ultrasonic cleaner. Carb cleaner is strong on the internal check valves. DO NOT use compressed air on the carb you will blow the check valves that are hard/not able to be replaced.

The carb is a Zama or Walbro you can get rebuild kits for them.

Air leaks kill 2 strokes.
Ethanol does too.


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## jlt4800 (Feb 20, 2015)

Ever since I started using additives to stabalize the gas from the ethanol in my small engine fuels I haven't had any issues with starting or running smooth.
Ethanol sux as others have already stated.


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## NE GA Pappy (Feb 20, 2015)

2 cycle requires 3 things, fuel, spark at the right time, and compression.

Picture shows no or low compression. Problem found.  It is probably on the exhaust side of the piston, as  the intake side runs cooler because of the mist of fuel/oil that is being brought into the engine.


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## Bilge Rat LT 20 (Mar 5, 2015)

The ring locating pin is usually on the intake side of piston.
The deep gouge on the side kooks like more than just aluminum transfer.
Look for any stray metal parts in the cylinder/crankcase.
Look for needle bearings or piston pin C clips.

Make sure you seal the motor, use Yamabond or Locktite 518
Don't use sillycone it won't last. It will leak air leaning out the motor and cook it again.

Replace all rubber lines, fuel and impulse.


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