# Remington 7400 30-06 - Reloading-ammo suggestions or tweaks



## SmokyMtnSmoke (May 8, 2009)

I recently pickup one of these up on a great deal for a truck gun. This is my first experience with them and I've searched and read all the general comments about being jam-o-mattics and such so you can spare me that banter. I know to keep the action as well as the gas port clean and I should be fine with its function. I'm not expecting a BR tack driver but of course want the best accuracy I can get from it with good bolt cycling performance. 

What I want to hear is what factory ammo has worked well for you in yours? 

Also, if you reload for it, what Rx work well for you? Powder,charge, bullet wt have been good performers?

Looking for 125-180 grain proven loads for your semi-auto 30-06.

This 7400 has the 22" barrel but still feels compact to me as it is quick to shoulder to acquire a sight picture with the irons. I'd like to maybe upgrade the front/rear sights but with what? Maybe a ghost ring type rear and some sort of fiber optic front  What are your suggestions? 

I'm prolly gonna get the synthetic stock set as well. 

Are there any recommended upgrades like trigger work / gas piston mods to give more reliability with say a spring upgrade that a DIY'er could handle?


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## 7Mag Hunter (May 8, 2009)

I handload a Rem 180gr RNSP bullet with IMR4064 powder....
I will not list specific charges here but I do use a Chrony and
load to just factory specs of 2850fps...I obviously full length
size, and crimp on the cannelure with a Lee factory crimp die....
I highly suggest you use this die of you are going to reload for
autos..

I bought my 742 new in 1970 and have never had a problem
with jams...Keep your 7400 clean and lube the bolt rails, and
you should be OK...


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## bevills1 (May 9, 2009)

I've loaded for 3 different Remington as well as 3 different Browning semi-autos, and the only one I found necessary to crimp was a 300 Mag BAR.  I've had good results with IMR4350, IMR4064 and Win760 powders loading 150 and 165 grain bullets.  My favorite bullet for deer is the 150 grain Remington Bronze point which is very accurate with deadly performance on deer.  I like the same bullet for the same reasons in factory loads with the 150 grain Remington CoreLokt a close second.


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## fishtail (May 9, 2009)

Most of the problems with the Remingtons are  with the ports being dirty or the magazine, not being quite right.
The 150gr stuff from Remington and Winchester seems to perform very well in the semi auto's.
I've worked up a charge for my wife's brother-in law to shoot Sierra 125gr FNHP in his. 
This bullet is designed for a 30/30. He wanted basically a "semi-auto 30/30", and I obliged.
 I used the 125gr spitzer charge rates for that cartridge.
He can't comment enough about the performance of this cartridge. It has a capability of out to 225 yards at best.
Oh, and Remington sights are about the best (at least the ones I've shot with open sights in), use them or a scope.


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## wildcats (May 9, 2009)

I have one and it loves Remington 180 SP or 180 PSP.  This gun has killed hundreds of deer and 1 elk, never given me a bit of trouble.  My guns are clean and taken care of but they hunt rain, snow, sleet or shine.  I have 3 mags that I rotate a bit.  I have also made a clover leaf with this same factory ammo at 100 yards. 
My dad has one in the carbine version and it seems to only like Remington 150 PSP.  It also has killed a few truck loads of deer...again without a hitch.


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## bearpugh (May 9, 2009)

just reload a few at a time and try before doing a batch. autos can be finicky about length and stuff. might have to make changes before you find what you like. my experience with these is that they like full power loads. nothing hot, just don't try reduced loads. they don't seem to cycle well. good luck.


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## wildmantaz (May 9, 2009)

If you plan to reload for the Remington I would suggest that you get a set of small base dies. I reloaded 30-06 for a 742 for years and I used Small Base dies, 150 gr WW powerpoints, and Win 760 powder. It was very accurte and never had any problems with the loads. I took some nice deer with my loads. I followed the Winchester loading data.


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## hawgrider1200 (May 10, 2009)

I have shot a Rem 742 and 7400 for many years now. In the late 80's I tried some reloads thru my 742 with bad luck. A buddy of mine loaded em and they jammed clean gun or not. As far as factory loads. Mine loves the Hornady 165 grain boat tail spire tip. 
I have the factory synthetic stock and forearm on my 7400. It is very light. I need a heavy gun though because I'm not as steady as I was in my younger days.


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## Ga-Bullet (May 10, 2009)

Small Base Dies are a Must.


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## SmokyMtnSmoke (May 10, 2009)

Ga-Bullet said:


> Small Base Dies are a Must.



I've read that but I've chambered some of my reloads w/ Lee Pace setter dies an they all chamber just as smooth as factory round. I've yet to fire it and am getting a bad itch. 

Also I've dated this one to April of1985 and it looks like it's been well cared for for it's age with a few very small rust spots.

That deep blue barrel is pretty but I'm really thinking about getting it coated for weather durability. Any pros 'n cons on coating it?

Thanks for your input


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## bevills1 (May 10, 2009)

Small base dies are not a must in my experience.  As stated in my post # 3 I've loaded for a half dozen different semi-auto rifles, have never found the need for small base dies and have had zero problems using standard full length dies for all those rifles.


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## bearhunter39 (Jun 12, 2009)

As far as the trigger goes you can buy a reduced trigger pull kit on ebay for about ten buck's i put one in my 742 and it made a world of difference, you would not beleive the group's i shoot with this gun on sand bag's with factory remington core lokt 180 gr. psp


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## bighonkinjeep (Jun 12, 2009)

Recommended upgrade: Swap it for a Savage bolt gun


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## fi8shmasty (Jun 12, 2009)

Keep it clean. Pull the forearm off of it once in a while and lube the action spring and Bar. I just fixed one the other day. Guy never cleaned it. the gas port seemed open but just to be sure I drilled it out with the proper sized drill bit (different size for different calibers) and it functions Perfectly now. Ive been shooting one for years. Nice and accurate 7400. I think shooting light bullets might not be as good as far as functioning and accuracy. I would stick to at least 150's. If you are shooting something you are worried about fur damage use full metal jackets.
 Just my 2 cents.
 Cheers, Fish


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## bevills1 (Jun 13, 2009)

Swap it for a Savage bolt gun or any bolt gun would be a down grade IMO.  There have been numerous opportunities I've either shot multiple deer or could have shot multiple deer because I was hunting with a semi auto.  This option is usually not possible with non semi auto rifles due to the movement and sound of the action spooking other deer when other deer are present.


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## SmokyMtnSmoke (Jun 13, 2009)

Just 'pulled the trigger' on the trigger spring kit and a set of see thru rings both for a total of $20.

What I really want is a better front sight post with out paying a fortune for such a small piece of steel. I still want the irons and I like what it has except the front post can get lost in the brush or a dark back ground.

Anyone know of a Tru-Glow type replacement?


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## SmokyMtnSmoke (Jun 19, 2009)

The 7400 in the new Ram-Line Mossy Oak Break-Up


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## SmokyMtnSmoke (Jun 19, 2009)

I tested the trigger pull w/ my Lyman gauge about 10 times with an average of about 3.9 lbs of pull. I installed the new spring and did another 10 with the same dang average of 3.9lbs. Now this 7400 dates back to '85 and has been well cared for. I don't know it's history so it could of had this replacement already or the spring could of just 'worn in' to this condition. I got my spring from http://www.erniethegunsmith.com/ ebay store. I emailed him with my results yesterday but haven't heard back from him yet. I'm leaving the new spring in no matter as it is very smooth and doesn't seem overly hard to pull. I think it is also prolly a safe poundage to leave it at being a semi-auto that will be bounced around from time to time,

The wood on this rifle is in very good shape and I really bought this to be a truck gun as I got it cheap. I stumbled on a Ramline Mossy Oak synthetic replacement stock on fleebay for $68 shipped. It will be here today. As well I have some Kwik-Site see thru's on the way too as I have a older Simmons Whitetail Classic mate finish waiting in the gunsafe. I will prolly camo paint it add some weather protection and help hide it along with the camo stock set.


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## SmokyMtnSmoke (Sep 13, 2009)

I found this info else where...



> Fellow Hunters, I am back from deer camp and my Remington 7400 was accurate and functioned flawlessly.
> 
> I worked up two different bullet weight loads and the following were the best tested, both at the range and in the woods. Because I shoot a Semi-Automatic I used RCBS Small Base Sizer Die.
> 
> ...


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## SmokyMtnSmoke (Sep 14, 2009)

More tweeks for these Remington Semi Auto

http://www.go2gbo.com/forums/index.php?action=printpage;topic=124187.0



> Graybeard Outdoors
> Rifle and Optics Forums => Semi Auto and Pump Hunting Rifles => Topic started by: Pops on August 18, 2007, 10:53:16 AM
> 
> Title: Remington 7400- 750 Autoloader Jamming Fix!!!
> ...


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## Niner (Sep 14, 2009)

Here is the load I have used for 30-06 for many years.  My Dad worked up this load in the early 1980's and it works.

IMR4064 - 48.7gr.
Sierra 165 SBT Game King
WLR primer

I have shot this load in a Rem 74, a BAR and a Win M70.  Great accuracy in all three.  The Sierra does a good job on our GA deer.

This load is right between the "accuracy" load and the "max" load in the old Seirra manuals.


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## bublewis (Sep 15, 2009)

I've loaded lots of rounds for a 7400/30-06.  I use a regular FL - sizing die from RCBS, and I've never had any issues with fired brass, even when it was fired in other guns.  The biggest difference with brass that is fired in the 7400 is that it will usually flatten one side of the neck (if you can find it, after it is ejected), so I just take a little extra care when starting them into the resizing die.  I found that I could pretty much use the same loads as I do my bolt action rifles.  If you follow a loading manual, you should be fine.  I'd have to go to my loading records to see the exact recipes I've used, but I know that I've loaded a lot of H4350/IMR4350, IMR 4064, H414 and some WIN748 for the 7400/30-06.  Bullets that I've loaded for the 7400/'06 include:  NBT 150 & 165gr; NP 150 & 165; Sierra BT 150 & 165gr; Hornady & Sierra RN 180gr.  I've never ran into any problems loading for the 7400 or BAR.  I've never had to crimp any of my 30-06's.  Just be sure to seat the bullet to where it is not engaging the rifling, and don't try to push the load just to achieve a few more fps; it's not worth it.


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## haskell (Sep 21, 2009)

Hi Guys, looking for some help.  My 7400 worked fine with Remington Express 150gr factory loads.  I loaded fully sized R-P cases with 48gr IMR4320 and Hornaday 150gr spire softpoints.   The first shot hit a bit high, ejection seemed more vigorous, and the ejected case looked OK.  The bolt Jammed shut without completely closing.  I could not pull it open with my hand, taking it to the gunsmith tomorrow.   As you know, ammo is scarce and handloading components are hard to come by.  IMR4320 should be OK, when I read the manuals 48gr seems low-to-mid range (the IMR website suggests a starting load of 49gr) of a medium burn rate powder.   Should I go up or down with the load, my feeling is to try like 46gr next time.   Or should I just switch to another powder, provided I can find it?    Thanks in advance for your help.  Oh, OAL was 3.24 inches.


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## germag (Sep 21, 2009)

bevills1 said:


> Swap it for a Savage bolt gun or any bolt gun would be a down grade IMO.  There have been numerous opportunities I've either shot multiple deer or could have shot multiple deer because I was hunting with a semi auto.  This option is usually not possible with non semi auto rifles due to the movement and sound of the action spooking other deer when other deer are present.



Although I'm not going to try to talk the OP into a bolt gun....if he likes semi-autos, that's fine...this is simply not factual. One rifle action type over another is not an "upgrade" or a "downgrade". It's simply a matter of preference. Some people swear by a pump rifle, some by a lever action, some by a bolt gun...and some prefer semi-autos. The right gun is the one the hunter is comfortable with and kills deer with.

A semi-auto may give a little edge on a second or third shot, but the statement _"This option is usually not possible with non semi auto rifles due to the movement and sound of the action spooking other deer when other deer are present."_ is just not a true statement, _especially_ when hunting from an elevated stand. I've been in the situation you describe more times than I can count where I have multiple deer around me. At least half the time the remaining deer don't go anywhere when you shoot. If you are shooting a bolt gun, pump gun, or a lever gun, just cycle the action immediately and quickly after the shot, while it's still ringing in the air and the deer will still be so distracted and disoriented from the first shot they won't notice or pick up on that noise. The rest of the time they will immediately bolt and you will be shooting at a running deer, which is not really an ethical shot in most cases anyway....so I don't think that a semi auto really gives that much of an edge in a real practical sense in the scenario described. Now, where I could see a semi-auto possibly providing a slight edge is a second shot at a the same deer where you missed the first shot. That would be because it would allow you to stay on the target a little better. The trick to that is simply don't miss the first shot....a deer is a pretty big target.

I had several situations where I killed 3 deer in 10 or 15 seconds with a bolt gun and could have kept on shooting them.....but I didn't want to clean any more than 3. I have never, ever been in a situation where I was unable to get a second shot off because I was not shooting a semi-auto....in the situations where I couldn't get a second shot I wouldn't have had a second (ethical) shot no matter what I was shooting.


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## germag (Sep 21, 2009)

haskell said:


> Hi Guys, looking for some help.  My 7400 worked fine with Remington Express 150gr factory loads.  I loaded fully sized R-P cases with 48gr IMR4320 and Hornaday 150gr spire softpoints.   The first shot hit a bit high, ejection seemed more vigorous, and the ejected case looked OK.  The bolt Jammed shut without completely closing.  I could not pull it open with my hand, taking it to the gunsmith tomorrow.   As you know, ammo is scarce and handloading components are hard to come by.  IMR4320 should be OK, when I read the manuals 48gr seems low-to-mid range (the IMR website suggests a starting load of 49gr) of a medium burn rate powder.   Should I go up or down with the load, my feeling is to try like 46gr next time.   Or should I just switch to another powder, provided I can find it?    Thanks in advance for your help.  Oh, OAL was 3.24 inches.



Yeah, 48gr of IMR 4320 is near the minimum for .30-06. The Lyman manual lists 47 gr as the minimum load. That's probably not going to cycle your action properly. I'd go up instead of down....powder is expensive and scarce, but a new rifle and a new face are more expensive. DO NOT load below the minimum. You are much more likely to blow up your rifle up in your face doing that than by loading above the maximum. 

Smokless powder is designed to burn progressively. It burns faster with added pressure. The primer ignites the powder at the back of the case and progressively increases burn rate through the powder column and keeps building pressure as the bullet passes through the bore. Ideally you reach maximum pressure (and maximum velocity) just before the bullet exits the barrel. If the case is less than 2/3 full or so, it's possible that when the primer ignites it can flash across the top of the powder, igniting it all at once and causing a dangerous spike in chamber pressure.

I'd be more inclined to bump it up to 50 or 52 gr rather than down to 46.


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## howl (Sep 21, 2009)

It may not be possible to do worse than Kwik-Site See-Thru for rings. Just iron sights would be better than a scope in those things. About the cheapest decent mount you can get is a set of Burris Zee rings on plain ol' Weaver rails.


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## germag (Sep 21, 2009)

howl said:


> It may not be possible to do worse than Kwik-Site See-Thru for rings. Just iron sights would be better than a scope in those things. About the cheapest decent mount you can get is a set of Burris Zee rings on plain ol' Weaver rails.



Yeah...I think you need to make up your mind if you want to shoot iron sights or a scope....but not both.


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## 7Mag Hunter (Sep 21, 2009)

The handloads Niner listed are VERY close to my pet load for
my 742....
I will add again I FL size and use factory crimp (NOT
roll crimp) which replicates a factory round....

FL sizing, proper crimp and proper OAL will go a long way toward
reducing any handloading issues for auto rifles....Used brass should
be brought back to proper FL specs before reloading for autos.....

I did try shoot thru scope mounts years ago, and ultimately decided
thay stuck up too far and required extreme elevation adjustments
to sight in....Recentered the scope, and went back to proper med
height mounts....Shoots and looks better...


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## haskell (Sep 21, 2009)

Thanks, germag and 7mag Hunter, for your very helpful and prompt replies.   I think I will go on up to 50gr of IMR4320 and crimp with the factory die.  The Hornaday bullets are cannelured so that should work.  I'm waiting to hear from the gunsmith about taking the rifle in.   Will let you know as soon as I can get to the range and let you know how it went.


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## TACTICOOL (Sep 21, 2009)

I hunted with a 7400 for 6 years, it never jammed, malfunctioned, ftf or fte. Always performed flawlessly. I never reloaded, I was a die hard 180 grain core-lokt shooter. Sorry I was no help with the reloading, I just wanted to let you know that you have a fine gun there when kept up.


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## Luke0927 (Sep 21, 2009)

I've killed a lot of deer with my 7400 '06 and its never had a problem normally shot remmington core-lokt, also feed it federal fusion it shot anything i put through it and dropped plenty of deer.  Since i got my 280 I haven't used it as much but I still take it out a few times a year.


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## haskell (Sep 21, 2009)

Well, back from the gunsmith.  What I found was that the cartridge case just behind the start of the taper to the neck was slight bulged, the round apparently hung up in the chamber and did not fully seat.  His thought was that when I seated the bullet into the case, a slight flare outwards in the case occurred.  The flare was symmetrically even, so a case bulge due to seating pressure makes sense  --  the bullets were hard to start since I was using new cases, albeit full-sized.   The other rounds loaded at that time look OK.   I am still gonna go with 49gr of IMR4320 (minimum load recommended on IMR website) and a light factory crimp at the cannelure on the Hornaday 150s.   Will double check the cases after seating the bullet.   Thanks again for your help and suggestions.
P.S.  I was using a Lee die system, the bullet seating die allowed me to apply extra pressure, more than needed, and I was able to reproduce the flare.  Interestingly, with light pressure to mild resistance and a soft stop, withdrawing the ram and then advancing again did not allow extra pressure and a case deformation.  Will take a careful look and buff, polish and very lightly and carefully lubricate the inner parts of the die.


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## SmokyMtnSmoke (Sep 21, 2009)

bevills1 said:


> Swap it for a Savage bolt gun or any bolt gun would be a down grade IMO.  There have been numerous opportunities I've either shot multiple deer or could have shot multiple deer because I was hunting with a semi auto.  This option is usually not possible with non semi auto rifles due to the movement and sound of the action spooking other deer when other deer are present.





germag said:


> Although I'm not going to try to talk the OP into a bolt gun....if he likes semi-autos, that's fine...this is simply not factual. One rifle action type over another is not an "upgrade" or a "downgrade". It's simply a matter of preference. Some people swear by a pump rifle, some by a lever action, some by a bolt gun...and some prefer semi-autos. The right gun is the one the hunter is comfortable with and kills deer with.
> 
> A semi-auto may give a little edge on a second or third shot, but the statement _"This option is usually not possible with non semi auto rifles due to the movement and sound of the action spooking other deer when other deer are present."_ is just not a true statement, _especially_ when hunting from an elevated stand. I've been in the situation you describe more times than I can count where I have multiple deer around me. At least half the time the remaining deer don't go anywhere when you shoot. If you are shooting a bolt gun, pump gun, or a lever gun, just cycle the action immediately and quickly after the shot, while it's still ringing in the air and the deer will still be so distracted and disoriented from the first shot they won't notice or pick up on that noise. The rest of the time they will immediately bolt and you will be shooting at a running deer, which is not really an ethical shot in most cases anyway....so I don't think that a semi auto really gives that much of an edge in a real practical sense in the scenario described. Now, where I could see a semi-auto possibly providing a slight edge is a second shot at a the same deer where you missed the first shot. That would be because it would allow you to stay on the target a little better. The trick to that is simply don't miss the first shot....a deer is a pretty big target.
> 
> I had several situations where I killed 3 deer in 10 or 15 seconds with a bolt gun and could have kept on shooting them.....but I didn't want to clean any more than 3. I have never, ever been in a situation where I was unable to get a second shot off because I was not shooting a semi-auto....in the situations where I couldn't get a second shot I wouldn't have had a second (ethical) shot no matter what I was shooting.



The OP already has 2 Savage bolt guns and likes to hunt with them, but I like more flavors of cereal than Cheerios  and having a semi-auto plays no part in quick second shots for me when deer hunting. Like germag, in seasons past, I've taken 3 deer at one sitting with my Savage .308.

This thread is about making a decent deer rifle as reliable as possible by understanding and overcoming its quirks.


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## 7Mag Hunter (Sep 21, 2009)

Get the Lee Factory Crimp die...It uses a collet to crimp the
bullet to the cannelure and does not rely on pushing case UP
into a crimping shoulder...The collet squeezes the case inward
to the cannelure....
Bulged cases are a major issue when using a roll type crimp
die with long cases...Just a bit too much crimp can bulge cases,
and cause a jam.....


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## germag (Sep 21, 2009)

SmokyMtnSmoke said:


> The OP already has 2 Savage bolt guns and likes to hunt with them, but I like more flavors of cereal than Cheerios  and having a semi-auto plays no part in quick second shots for me when deer hunting. Like germag, in seasons past, I've taken 3 deer at one sitting with my Savage .308.
> 
> This thread is about making a decent deer rifle as reliable as possible by understanding and overcoming its quirks.



This thread did get "hijacked" a little, didn't it?


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## haskell (Sep 21, 2009)

7mag hunter --  thanks, I tried the factory crimp die and it worked like a charm.  Your suggestion was terrific, I had been doubtful about the factory crimp die but it did a slick job.   To all on this thread:   thanks for your help, I learned a lot and I really appreciate your comments and suggestions.


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## 7Mag Hunter (Sep 21, 2009)

haskell--Glad the info helped..


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## SmokyMtnSmoke (Sep 21, 2009)

germag said:


> This thread did get "hijacked" a little, didn't it?



Yes it did, but it's all good. As I always learn something new.  

7Mag, I never thought about the type of crimp being an issue. I just ordered a FC die.


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## Niner (Sep 22, 2009)

I like the Lee Factory Crimp Die as well!


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## haskell (Sep 22, 2009)

I used Hornady 150gr bullets with a canelure, with bullet inserted into case so about a third of the canelure could be seen just over the case rim.  Final O.A.L. was 3.22 inches (did not measure from ogive but from bullet tip).   Follow the Lee directions, which were slightly ambiguous.  One-half turn after the die hits the ram.   The crimp will be very subtle, just at the end of the case.  and will appear as a smooth round circle.  The first one I did I kept tightening down the die too much because I couldn't believe how light the pressure needed to be.
P.S. 7mag Hunters suggestion of chronographing the loads to factory spec 2850fps is really clever (see his post of 5-8-09) in order to duplicate factory round performance.  For Remington Express Core-lock 150gr factory spec is 2910 fps.


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## haskell (Sep 23, 2009)

Just FYI, I chrono'd the Remington Express 150gr Core-Lokt factory loads at 2740 fps.  My loads with 49gr IMR4320 and 150gr Hornadys chrono'd at 2560fps, cycled just fine.  Going up one notch to 50gr IMR4320 next.


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## SmokyMtnSmoke (Oct 7, 2009)

I've not had the time to work on hand loads that my 7400 30-06 will cycle and group well but I did try some good ole Remington Core-Lokts 165gn PSP that groups well and cycles the bolt with out any issues after 2 boxes.

The best deal going at the moment for in store pickup is at Dick's SG, Remington Core-Lokts are currently $14.48/box plus Remington's Ammo Mail-In Rebate of $5/2 boxes works out to $11.98 box before taxes.


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