# Cut bait or fish? (Build-a-long FINISHED!)



## Apex Predator (Dec 19, 2009)

How about a build-a-long for Fishbait?

Lea ranks right up there with the bestest wives on the planet!  Mine wouldn't consider buying me a custom bow for Christmas.

This one was originally slated to get an osage riser and eastern red cedar lams.  I found this piece of canary wood and bought it for risers.  Lea said "perfect" when I ran the idea by her.  It won't get as dark as osage over time, but has some pretty darker streaks.  It's the piece on the left.







I decided to laminate a couple of red phenolic accents in for strength.  Here is the block with some layout lines, and the pieces laid out.
















I finished and shipped another yesterday, so now I'm full time on this one.  Here is the glued up riser blank.


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## OconeeDan (Dec 19, 2009)

That's gonna look awesome!  Love the color combo.  Dan


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## SELFBOW (Dec 19, 2009)

I guess the secrets out. Merry Christmas Fishbait!
You gonna like it...


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## fishbait (Dec 19, 2009)

WOO HOO I be getting me a new toy.
THanks for the build along Marty.
Take your time its the holidays and spend it with your family; my bow can wait a little while. 

An yes guys in my eyes and heart I have the best wife in the world and I love her dearly.
                 Thanks Babe:l


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## Bowmaker (Dec 19, 2009)

What kind  of glue are you using on that riser Marty?


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## Apex Predator (Dec 19, 2009)

I use Smooth-on bowbuilding epoxy for everything.


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## Bubbaforsure (Dec 19, 2009)

fishbait said:


> WOO HOO I be getting me a new toy.
> THanks for the build along Marty.
> Take your time its the holidays and spend it with your family; my bow can wait a little while.
> 
> ...



Marty....You better start working on it...Before he blows up into a ga-zillion little pieces 
This one is going to be fun to watch 
Congrats FishBait  
It's going to be one very nice looking bow!


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## Apex Predator (Dec 21, 2009)

I cut the back contour on my riser and put it on my form to check for fit, and noticed a problem.  The aluminum strip glued to the top of my form had lifted in the middle.  There was a 1/8" gap!  I had to pull the whole thing off and glue it back down again.  This time I used CA gel.  Here is the strip setting up.






Here I am checking the fit.  After getting my lams prepared, I will try this fit again to fine tune it.  I'm using four .001 per inch tapers, and will cause the riser to fit differently.






Here are all the parts layed out.  The cedar is awesome!  I ordered this without knots for this design, but there is good color contrast.  They will get much darker under glass.






I use this jig to make matching bevels on my 36" lams to join them in the middle.






This is a bad photo, but shows both lams after sanding.  If the angle is correct, they will match perfectly when flipping one over.  I glue them together with CA gel, and then sand the joint smooth.






Here is one of the eastern red cedar lams wetted with alcohol to show a little better what it will look like under glass.






Good stuff!


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## cpowel10 (Dec 21, 2009)

Looks good!


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## Apex Predator (Dec 22, 2009)

Alright, I have scrapped that other "new" camera.  My old one takes much better photos!  

I'll start by showing some better, but not good, photos of the lam joint.  The tighter the better.  I've seen a lot of bows with thick joints, or even seperations here, and I can't stand it.











Next step is to cut out the riser fades on the bandsaw, and sand them until they are see-through thin at the ends.  I use an aluminum faced piece of wood which is cut to the same back profile as my riser.  This backing piece enables me to sand the fadeouts really thin on my spindle sander.  That canary wood is pretty stuff, and you can see it when I can catch it right in a photo!











All the lams have to be sanded lightly on the edges.  See these splinters?  They will cause problems if you don't knock them off.  They will get all in the epoxy and cause thick glue lines, and worse.






There is a lot of work involved in building a bow, even before gluing up the bow blank.  My shop is not heated, so I have to wait for a day where my shop is approaching 70 degrees or buy a space heater before glue-up.  Tomorrow the weather should be good.

Stay tuned!


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## hogdgz (Dec 22, 2009)

Nice Marty.


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## Apex Predator (Dec 23, 2009)

I forgot to show you guys my workbench earlier.  Those lines are what I use to align the two 36" lams when gluing them into a 72" lam.  The blue tape is holding down some plastic wrap so that I don't super glue my lams to the work bench.






Now it's time to cut the lams down to size so they will fit my form.  This form will build a bow 60-64" so the lams all have to be trimmed down.  I start by reading the max length off the side of my form, and then cut the glass.  I use the glass as a template for the wood lams.  The full length glass is marked in the center to use for aligning up on the glue joint on the wood.






I use a dremel to cut off glass and wood lams.  It works very well on the glass, and not quite as well on the wood.  






Here are the power lams.  I started with two .060 parallel hickory lams cut 12" long.  I tape them to this aluminum faced, square cut, 1.5" piece of stock.  I then taper by eye the last 6" of each piece.  I want them to disapear on the ends!


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## Bubbaforsure (Dec 23, 2009)

Again...Marty...You continue to amaze us all with you're carftsmanship!  Great Job....!


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## Apex Predator (Dec 23, 2009)

Here we are checking the riser fit on top of the lams it will be on top of in the stack.  There is a little light showing in two spots.  I made it right with some tape.  






Here is everything layed out, including the pressure strips.  Notice the power lams running up the fade ramps.  They will extend four inches past the riser.






Here is a close up of my pressure strip.  Rubber on the bottom, aluminum in the middle, and a piece of pvc lattice on top.






Here is a fit test of the power lam.  See how it fades to nothing, with no gap.  It's the lam just beneath the top cedar lam.






Here is a check of the riser fade ramps.  After wrapping it well with my rubber clamping strips, there will be no gaps.  It's hard to apply enough pressure with one hand, while stooping down and taking a photo with the other.  











With a little luck, I'll lay this one up tonight!


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## Jake Allen (Dec 23, 2009)

Thank you Marty; this is awesome!


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## F1Rocket (Dec 23, 2009)

Marty, not to butt in, when I have built composite R.C. gliders and it was that critical time to start gluing things together, I bought a moving box that can handle hanging clothes. For the really long wings, spliced two boxes end to end.  It had a metal bar to hang pieces from and with a heat lamp inside, it got very warm inside. Temps were controlled with a flap cut in the side and a small computer fan moved the warm air around.


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## fishbait (Dec 23, 2009)

She be looking good.


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## dm/wolfskin (Dec 24, 2009)

Good deal Marty. Have a Merry Christmas. Mike


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## Apex Predator (Jan 3, 2010)

Well folks, my wife and kids kidnapped me for Christmas and new years!  The time in between my shop was too cold to glue up this bow.  I bought a heater (18,000 btu) that wasn't big enough to heat my two car garage shop.  I got back from a visit with my mother in Raleigh and tried another heater.  This one is the ticket!  30,000- 50,000 btus and my shop went from 46 deg today to 70 in 45 minutes. 

I ran into a brick wall with the lay up though.  I heated the epoxy some to make it thinner, and got it too hot.  It started to gel, and then solidified before I could spread it on second side of the first wood lam.  Now I have to wait a few days for another piece of glass and one more pair of cedar lams.


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## Apex Predator (Jan 13, 2010)

I pulled this out of my laminating oven this morning.






Let's see what's under all those rubber clamps.






Plenty of epoxy on the limb edges!






Of to the belt sander to clean this bad boy up a little.  I like it!!!!





















I just love that eastern red cedar!


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## BkBigkid (Jan 13, 2010)

Looks Good, 
It is warming up enough done there yet to start working on them again?


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## D.J. Smith (Jan 13, 2010)

Looking good Marty, Hunting season is about over, maybe you will have more time for build alongs, I like following along.


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## Apex Predator (Jan 13, 2010)

I've got a heater in there now, and it does well.


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## hogdgz (Jan 13, 2010)

Thats looking good!!


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## Jake Allen (Jan 13, 2010)

The birth of another arra shooting machine!
Looks fantastic Marty, thanks for this build along.


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## Bubbaforsure (Jan 13, 2010)

Way to go.....Marty.....Another great looking bow. They always look flawless when you get them finished up


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## D.J. Smith (Jan 13, 2010)

More pictures Marty, I like that cedar!! Fire up that heater!!


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## fishbait (Jan 13, 2010)

Dang brother that be one fine looking bow. Whoever is getting that one sure is a lucky guy.
Them cedar lams are making me drool all over me key board.
Just curious as to what pound u shooting for on that bad boy?


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## SELFBOW (Jan 13, 2010)

I think some guy named "Cutbait" is gettin this one....


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## Apex Predator (Jan 13, 2010)

I was told 48@28, but may could sway a pound or two either side of that.  I'll know for sure tomorrow morning when I get a string on her!


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## fishbait (Jan 13, 2010)

buckbacks said:


> I think some guy named "Cutbait" is gettin this one....


He sho be lucky.



Apex Predator said:


> I was told 48@28, but may could sway a pound or two either side of that.  I'll know for sure tomorrow morning when I get a string on her!



Anything 45-50 would be fine by me.


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## Apex Predator (Jan 14, 2010)

Last nite after work and dinner, I prepared the buffalo horn overlays.







This morning I started by finding the centerline of the riser.  I use a little jig that I made.











I then run a line from tip to tip.  By sighting down the bow I adjust the string at each tip until the line is bisecting the riser center and the limbs.






After marking the tips center, I will make marks to draw in my bows back profile.  I make my tips 5/8" wide at this point.  I draw straight lines from 3" outside the fades to these tip lines.






Now it's off to the belt sander to take the limbs down to the lines.  I will further narrow the tips until they fit in my string groove marking jig.











Now I cut rough string grooves in and put a string on her.  She was way heavy at around 61 pounds!  No worries though, because a lot of excess bow material removal left.


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## robert carter (Jan 14, 2010)

That mighty purty. I really like the way grain in the wood matchs in both limbs.RC


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## Apex Predator (Jan 14, 2010)

Yep, the back and belly match too!


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## devolve (Jan 14, 2010)

very nice marty.


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## Apex Predator (Jan 15, 2010)

I now need to narrow the limbs to final profile.  I first draw some lines on the limb edge, so that I can visually tell if I'm taking too much off one side.  Right now the string tracks down the center of the limbs, and I want to keep it that way!  I use another home made jig for this.  It's a little piece of plastic with a 90 degree angle on it.  I drilled some holes to fit an ultra-fine tip sharpie.  Works like a charm!
















Here she is at brace, and full draw.  I need to do some tweaking to the tiller, but both limbs are timed pretty well at full draw.  I want to get those outer limbs bending just a touch more, and will get that with trapping the belly.


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## F1Rocket (Jan 15, 2010)

"Trapping the belly" and "Tweaking the tiller".... Marty can you explain this terms?


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## fishbait (Jan 15, 2010)

That baby is looking some kind of sweet.
Can't wait to see the finished product or shot it.


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## Apex Predator (Jan 15, 2010)

Trapping the belly refers to cutting facets on each edge of the limb.  I do this at the belly, because testing has shown this to be most beneficial.  It removes quite a bit of excess weight from the limb tips, which increases speed and decreases hand shock.  It only drops the draw weight slightly.   Let's see if this comes out!  The top is the belly of this limb cross section diagram.
         ___
      /___\

Tweaking the tiller consists of getting all of the limb bending like I want, and both limbs timed so they draw and return to brace after release at the same time.  The shooters preference of split finger draw or three under plays a roll here.  You want to simulate the proper style when timing the limbs.  It affects where on the string I hook my pull rope, which can vary the pressure on each limb.  This can be compensated for, after the fact, with minor nock set adjustments.  I figure to make it as close as I can to start with though.


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## Apex Predator (Jan 15, 2010)

It didn't align quite right, but maybe you can see where I'm going with it.


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## Apex Predator (Jan 16, 2010)

This morning I got her down to 53#, timed, and got the overlays glued on.  Next step is to file the string grooves into the new tips and shape the overlays.  






















With trapping the belly of the limbs and final sanding, I should bring her in at 49-50 pounds at 28".


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## SELFBOW (Jan 16, 2010)

If stinkbait don't like it I might know a buyer...


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## fishbait (Jan 16, 2010)

buckbacks said:


> If stinkbait don't like it I might know a buyer...



Just keep drooling there buddy.


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## Apex Predator (Jan 18, 2010)

Here are the overlays photos.  Ain't they pretty!











After sanding a little, they start to come around nicely!





















Here you can see the old string groove that I will use as a guide for the new one.


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## Apex Predator (Jan 18, 2010)

Here I extend the groove with my chainsaw file.






Then I eyeball things very carefully, as I take the grooves around the back of the tip.
















Here you can see the front edge of the string groove that must be relieved.  If not, the string will pop in and out of the groove while drawing.






That's much better!


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## Apex Predator (Jan 18, 2010)

Now I'm going to trap the belly slightly.  I first draw some lines on the belly to use as a guide.  This is 1/8" from the edge.






Here is one a buddy made me that is pretty radical.  The entire edge is trapped from the fadeouts to tips.






I will use this 4 in 1 file to cut the limb facet.






I start 14" from the string groove and work almost to the tips.











She is down to 49@28, and will finish right at 48@28 after final sanding.  Tomorrow I will cut away everything that doesn't look like a riser!


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## fishbait (Jan 18, 2010)

She sho is develping into one beautiful lady.
An u r a true craftsman of your trade.


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## Tarboo hunter (Jan 19, 2010)

Awesom work marty and great build along.It's incredable to watch you create these master pieces.Keep these coming and thank you for the oppertunity to witness your creatons.


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## SELFBOW (Jan 19, 2010)

fishbait said:


> Just keep drooling there buddy.



Keep drooling Jeremy...I put my hands on it 1st


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## turtlebug (Jan 19, 2010)

buckbacks said:


> Keep drooling Jeremy...I put my hands on it 1st



Good, now you can pay the balance on it.


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## fishbait (Jan 19, 2010)

Marty please clean bow. It now has cooties.


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## Bubbaforsure (Jan 19, 2010)

turtlebug said:


> Good, now you can pay the balance on it.



Hey T-Bug....Since the bow has been handled by someone else other than the owner. We could say... 
This is a "USED" bow and now a substanial reduction in price is in order?  
Yep....I think dat's right!


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## Apex Predator (Jan 20, 2010)

I'll dis-infect her well today!  No harm, it didn't even have a string!  He wanted to string her up, but I had to draw the line.


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## longbowdave1 (Jan 20, 2010)

that bow for fish bait is looking great marty! your attention to detail shows in your work.

dave


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## Apex Predator (Jan 20, 2010)

Thanks Dave!

I started this morning by sanding off all the cooties! 

Here is what enables be to do temp sensitive bow building steps.  It will use up all the oxygen, so I cut it off before working.  My garage door has a 1"+ gap all around the edge, so I feel pretty safe.











I mark the center line on front and back of the riser.  I then draw the site window, front and back to act as guides.  Then it's on to the hacksaw!






Some careful work with a hammer/chisel and rasp gets me to this stage.






From here I use my Rigid oscillating spindle sander to contour the grip.  When the major facets are cut, I will switch to my 1X30" belt sander and a 4 in 1 rasp.


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## Apex Predator (Jan 20, 2010)

Here she is before final sanding.  I wiped her down with alcohol to see a little better what she will look like under a finish.


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## SELFBOW (Jan 20, 2010)

I need to get back n put some more cooties on her before fishbait gets his hands on her!


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## turtlebug (Jan 20, 2010)

Hmmmm, Marty, if you goof and happen to get her down to around 45#, just write "For Turtlebug" on her.    


My Lord she's beautiful.


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## Katera73 (Jan 21, 2010)

That is one awesome lookin bow. I can tell you are picky on your work that shows how much you care that its done right. Fishbait will be lucky to have it.


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## Apex Predator (Jan 21, 2010)

I'm final sanding now folks, so nothing more to see until she is finished.  Give me a couple of days!


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## Apex Predator (Jan 26, 2010)

This one turned out very well!  I hit the 48@28 right on the button.  She is 60" NTN.


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## ky_longbow (Jan 26, 2010)

looks great, the wood combo turned out very well.


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## devolve (Jan 26, 2010)

very nice marty!


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## dm/wolfskin (Jan 26, 2010)

Good build along Marty. Man, you make it look easy to build one and now Chris is doing it. I can't even make a tooth pick. Mike


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## 2wheelfoster (Jan 26, 2010)

WOW! That is one good looking bow!


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## Katera73 (Jan 26, 2010)

Great lookin bow awesome build along I enjoyed the step by step of the whole process. Thanks for sharing !!!!


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## ChrisSpikes (Jan 26, 2010)

Another beautiful one Marty!  That buffalo horn looks sharp.


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## robert carter (Jan 26, 2010)

Fine bow Marty. Love them horn overlays.RC


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## fishbait (Jan 26, 2010)

O YEAH SHE BE DONE!!!!!
Marty she turn out beautifully.
Can't wait to get my hands on her and take her for a spin.
Like I said before you are a true craftsman. Thank you.


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## Barry Duggan (Jan 26, 2010)

Well done.


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## pine nut (Jan 26, 2010)

What Chris and RC said!  I guess we have good taste huh!  I need to get a rubber stamp to save time typing  accolades on your bows.


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## longbowdave1 (Jan 26, 2010)

great looking bow marty and a great build along! fish bait is gonna love that bow!


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## Jake Allen (Jan 26, 2010)

Another masterpiece Marty, fine job! 
Those horn overlays are mighty fine looking.

Thanks for all the pictures and detailling of the entire 
process. Good stuff.


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## Apex Predator (Jan 27, 2010)

I want to find a "big" boar or sow to get the hooves off of.  I think they would make some good tips.


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## SELFBOW (Jan 27, 2010)

Apex Predator said:


> I want to find a "big" boar or sow to get the hooves off of.  I think they would make some good tips.



I got some toenails you can use

Fishbait might like em


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## fishbait (Jan 27, 2010)

buckbacks said:


> I got some toenails you can use
> 
> Fishbait might like em



Depends on what color they are. 
I prefer pink or blue in my choice of nails.


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## gurn (Jan 27, 2010)

Thats ah purdyin!!


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## johnweaver (Jan 31, 2010)

Fantastic!!!


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