# My first bamboo backed ipe (BBI) build-a-long



## Apex Predator (Mar 31, 2008)

Starting my first BBI (bamboo backed ipe).  Looking for a 68" NTN straight profile 50@27 longbow.  I started with a bamboo plank 2" wide and 72" long, and an ipe board 3/4" X 1 1/2" X 72.  







My first step was to flatten the belly of my bamboo so that I could draw my bows profile.  After cutting out that profile I thinned my boo.  This next photo is one I thinned for a BBO build earlier.  Ipe can handle thicker boo, so I left this one slightly thicker.






Next I traced out the profiled boo onto the ipe and cut it out, staying outside the lines.  After sanding the sides of the ipe flat I drew a straight line from just out side the fade out region to the tips.  My taper is around 1/2" to 5/16" at the tips.  Now I needed to figure out how to do the handle.  I wanted ipe with a hickory accent, but didn't have any ipe other than a second stave.  I figured I could spare wood from the width of this stave only.  I cut a thin strip from the edge which I laminated with epoxy to make a handle piece.  I figure it will probably be stronger this way.  When laying out everything on my form I discoverd that the ipe was bending at the handle when pulling it into reflex.  This has me worried some.  I found, by trial and error, where I had to put my first two clamps.  Anywhere else and the handle wouldn't mate well with the core.  I figured on 2 1/2" of glued in reflex.  Here she is all glued up with Titebond III.






I let her sit in the form for 36 hours, just to be safe!  When I took her out of the form she retained just 1" of reflex!  Hopefully I can tiller this baby perfectly.  I guess a little string follow won't hurt her?  Here she is just out of the form.











Glue lines look great!






These two knots are worrying me some as well!  They say ipe is a really tough customer.  We will see.











Should I narrow the tips more before starting to tiller?  I want my tips to be around 1/4".  I'll continue to post my progress.  Thanks in advance for all advice.  Please comment, since I am just a novice.


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## Nugefan (Mar 31, 2008)

great pix , and thanks for the build a long ...

keep us posted ....


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## RickD (Apr 1, 2008)

Interesting..I`ll be watching


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## Al33 (Apr 1, 2008)

Thanks for taking the time to share in this work in progress. Looking forward to more reports.


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## Apex Predator (Apr 1, 2008)

Here is the handle after rough shaping.






And the tip overlays glued on.  I will shape them tonight and post some more.  Stay tuned!


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## Apex Predator (Apr 1, 2008)

I think I'm gonna give her a few pulls and get the limbs bending even before I narrow the tips.  I just think there will be too much mass if left wide.  This thing probably weighs 5 pounds right now!  A lot of wood is gonna have to come off.  I don't want to come in under weight on this one.  I plan to tiller it to 55@27 and hopefully it will hit closer to 50 after finishing.  I lost an inch off of each tip this morning while trying to sand the boo flat for my overlays.  I couldn't get the transition to fit worth a darn, so I had to cut them off and try something else!  So now I'm down to 68" total, and shooting for 66 1/2" or so NTN.


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## John Cooper (Apr 1, 2008)

UUUMMM can i be a tester for ya?????? man that looks good!!!!!


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## pine nut (Apr 1, 2008)

Marty, that thang is going to be pretty!  Nice work.  I think when you get this built, I will want to buy the Hill bow you are wanting right now!  Should be a good deal cause I know you're going to love this one!  LOL 
Wish I had the time to get in another hunt in the swamps with you.  Bill


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## Apex Predator (Apr 1, 2008)

Here are the tips after first shaping.











They are starting to come around here.











The start of a string groove.











This ipe is tough stuff!  I don't know what I'm going to remove wood from the belly with.  All my files and rasps just chatter across the surface, occasionally gouging the surface.  A scraper and sandpaper may be all that will work on it.  Any suggestions?


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## OconeeDan (Apr 1, 2008)

Looking great!
Thanks for posting this, hope it turns out as good as it looks like it will.
Dan


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## ky_longbow (Apr 2, 2008)

LOOKING GOOD ! a ferriers rasp will remove wood quickly------ but be very careful- it may pull hunks loose------- i never worked IPE- but looks like it would be course---
have you tried a sureform ??


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## Apex Predator (Apr 2, 2008)

My sureform tears the heck out of it.  Gouges bad!  I may just tiller it with scraper and sandpaper block.


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## Apex Predator (Apr 3, 2008)

Here she is ready for the long string.






I think the left limb is still a little weak.  My tiller tree looks crooked to me.  I'll have to check that out before I go any further.  How far do you folks pull them before going to a short string?


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## Apex Predator (Apr 3, 2008)

Here she is on a short string.  One limb showed much stronger when I first got the string on her.  Now I have a hinge developing about half way down each limb.


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## RickD (Apr 3, 2008)

I envy you I wouldnt have the patiences


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## SOS (Apr 3, 2008)

Looking good.  May just be the picture, but I only see a slight weak spot in the right limb.  Take your time.....


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## Apex Predator (Apr 4, 2008)

One limb was much stronger, but I corrected it immediately.  Maybe I can work some more on it this morning before work.


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## Apex Predator (Apr 4, 2008)

I'm getting worried about making 50@27!  In order to get it bending a little more outside the fadeouts I have taken off quite a bit of weight.  This is her 38@20.  Please tell me what you think about the tiller.  Am I good to pull it further?  Do you think I can make it to 53-54@27 before final finishing?


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## Apex Predator (Apr 4, 2008)

To me it looks like the left limb is bending more, and they both need to bend a little more towards the tips.  I need experienced opinions!


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## reviveourhomes (Apr 4, 2008)

Looks good except the outer 1/3 of both limbs need to be bending more. If you just take off wood slowly you should be able to hit 50@27. Well it will be close anyway.


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## rapid fire (Apr 4, 2008)

Looking good.  I need to get started on the Ipe I have.  What did you end up using to remove wood?


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## Apex Predator (Apr 4, 2008)

THE BELT SANDER, and it's gotten me into trouble once again!!!!


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## Al33 (Apr 4, 2008)

Marty, have you tried pane glass for scraping to remove the ipe?


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## Apex Predator (Apr 4, 2008)

I've got a good scraper from Sweden that does a good job, but it's very slow.  I have to work on my patience!  I can slow down to a snails pace when hunting, but have trouble when bow building.


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## Apex Predator (Apr 5, 2008)

Well I took some wood off the right fade and outer third of both limbs and pulled her to 42@22.  Here she is.







I think things improved some and drew her 44@24 here.






I was getting down further in weight each time I tried to tweak the tiller.  She still had some of that 1" of reflex that I had when she was fresh out of glue up, so I figured I couldn't be over stressing her much.  I decided to forge ahead.  Wound up with 50@27.






I didn't miss weight by too much!  The tiller is far from perfect though.  I think it could still bend more at the fades and tips, but too late now!  Here is the profile after tillering.  Only one inch of set is my best to date.  Still stands straight.  Maybe the stiff tips will help performance?  At least that's what I've read.  






Here are the tips a little closer to being finished.  






What to do with the handle?  I want a small shelf cut in 1/2" or so.  My handle center is the bows center as well.  The flat handle section is 4 1/2" long.  I was thinking of cutting my shelf 2" above center.  I shoot three under.  How should I orient the handle with the bamboo backing.  Either limb can be top at this stage.  I can cut the shelf clear of the node, or at the node.


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## reviveourhomes (Apr 5, 2008)

Still needs a little more at the fades. You might be good to leave it like it is though. I love the contrast that the Ipeboo has.

I cut my shelves 1 1/2" above center on my glass bows. I like the shelf right on my hand though.


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## pine nut (Apr 5, 2008)

Marty, your last tiller pic looks to me weaker on the right limb, about a foot or so from the fades.  Could be the pic?  Laying a straight edge on the computer screen looks like a wider gap there than left side.  Anybody else?  I agree with Lewis about the fades, but watch the right limb.  Bill


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## reviveourhomes (Apr 5, 2008)

Here is a better pic, I think the right limb does have a VERY small hinge/weak spot compared to the left but its not bad I dont think.


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## John Cooper (Apr 5, 2008)

man let me get my glasses i wish i knew what the heck ya'll were talking about!!!!!!!!!


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## Apex Predator (Apr 5, 2008)

Thanks for the advice, but it's too late on this one.  She is standing straight after un-stringing, and I am just going to finish this one and hope for 47-48# when I'm done.  I guess I can expect to lose a couple of pounds from sanding during finishing, but will it lose wieght after shooting a while?


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## bam_bam (Apr 5, 2008)

Great looking bow! Hope she shoots great


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## Apex Predator (Apr 5, 2008)

Here are two of the roughed in handle.  I ended up cutting the shelf a little deeper than I intended.  The riser thickness through the sight window is 11/16" but 1 3/4" deep.  I think it will be ok, since it's laminated boo, ipe, hickory, ipe.  What do you think?


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## John Cooper (Apr 5, 2008)

marty i think it looks good .


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## pine nut (Apr 5, 2008)

I think the handle will be fine.  It may shoot like a stronger bow anyway.  Great looking glue lines etc.


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## Apex Predator (Apr 6, 2008)

Well I'm finishing her up now!  My ipe has a good bit of green mixed in with dark and light browns.  






I thought some green would look good on the back.






A little much?  I thought so as well.  I'm using Tandy leather dye.  After laying down and base green and letting it dry, I came back with some chocolate stain.  I really like the effect, and it compliments the green and brown ipe.











I am currently spraying it with Minwax satin laquer.  It's looking really good after two coats.  I am leaving the ipe and hickory their natural color. 

I shot this bow last nite and was really impressed!  Dead in the hand, quiet, and put them right were I was looking.


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## reviveourhomes (Apr 6, 2008)

Very cool looking Marty! It will blend in perfect as natural camo also!

Lets see some stung pics also and of the completed riser!


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## Apex Predator (Apr 6, 2008)

Here are a few after spraying.
















All thats left is to build a proper green/brown string, and lace up a leather grip!


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## pine nut (Apr 6, 2008)

COOL LOOKING BOW!  I like the colors.  Bill


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## rapid fire (Apr 7, 2008)

That camo job is awesome.  What was the green?


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## Allen Oliver (Apr 7, 2008)

*Lookin Good*

Fine piece of work Marty. Look forward to post of first blood it draws.


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## Oldgold Buck (Apr 7, 2008)

Man, I gotta say that is a beautiful piece.  I wish I had half the talent you got.  Congrats on a great build and I'll be looking forward to the first kill pics.


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## Apex Predator (Apr 7, 2008)

The stain on the boo is Tandy leather dye.  Green with chocolate over the top.


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## Nugefan (Apr 7, 2008)

awesome job on yer bow ....


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## Al33 (Apr 7, 2008)

Nugefan said:


> awesome job on yer bow ....



Yeah, what him said.


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## Apex Predator (Apr 7, 2008)

Here are a few final photos.  I'm very happy, even though the tiller isn't perfect.  She still stands straight after 50 shots or so.


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## BkBigkid (Apr 7, 2008)

That is one nice looking Bow, 
One of these Days I going to Attempt it, Just because of watching folks like you build some really nice looking Bows.


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## Lowjack (Jan 13, 2013)

Nice bow Great Build !


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## frankwright (Jan 13, 2013)

Really nice looking bow and thanks for the build pictures. 

Really interesting.


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## snook24 (Jan 13, 2013)

Awesome looking bow!!


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## whossbows (Jan 14, 2013)

Thats perty


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## NavyDave (Jan 27, 2013)

Sweet!


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