# Trigger job on S&W 686 357



## southgaoriginal (Oct 7, 2009)

Recently purchased a used 686 with 6 inch barrel great gun but would really like to get the trigger worked on can i do this or do i need to carry to gunsmith any ideas on how much it would cost


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## Cknerr (Oct 7, 2009)

any trigger job is a delicate task. Usually they are straight forward and with a little bit of care are a success.

You should try it with the caveat of don't be surprise if the first time it doesn't go as planned. Usually after the second time it is a pretty easy task.

Taking the darn thing apart and getting it back together then tends to be the pain the posterior!

Chris


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## Wiskey_33 (Oct 8, 2009)

> Taking the darn thing apart and getting it back together then tends to be the pain the posterior!



And can also void your warranty on the pistol with S&W.

Just take it to a Smith, who knows what they're doing. You can certainly screw things up real good once you pop that side plate off.


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## Twenty five ought six (Oct 8, 2009)

It even takes some care to take the side plate off without messing it up.

I've worked on the trigger on some of my beater S&W's, but for my good ones I rely on a professional.  To really do a good job, there are jigs and files that just are not practical to buy for a one off job.


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## MCBUCK (Oct 8, 2009)

I know I am getting ready to open up a can of.....ridicule here...but I did this on not one but TWO 686's and it worked like a charm.  But you had better be brave to do it and you had better be ready to do some major cleaning afterwards.
Here is my faux pas to handgunners :
I took the grips off of my 686, and of course I put a tweak on the spring tension screw...not much, just a turn or two.   Then, I put one side of the grips back against the frame, filled it full of an abrasive toothpaste,  pulled off the side plate, squrited some in there put the side plate back on slapped the other side of the grip back on , tightened the grip srew down and sat in a chair and worked the trigger for about 4 hours....pulled it back apart, went through about 2 cans of "Gunscrubber" to clean out the "Crest", poured the oil back to it and presto , Redneck trigger job. 
Between the "Crest" and the working of the action it polishes all of the internal workings
I know, I know, I know.
That was about 15 years ago and I shot at the range yesterday and was bouncing cans all over the place at 25 yds. The gun is just a plain shooter.  I have turned down $500 for it on more than one occasion after people have seen it shoot and especially after they have shot it.

now y'all can commence the bashing.
I do not reccomend it. But it worked.


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## Cknerr (Oct 9, 2009)

lol, no way would I do any bashing McBuck! Congratz are more in order. That is a good project. Getting the excess slop out of the slide is a big part of tuning. 

Many people (ie. include so called professional 'smiths) put the slide into a vise and lightly tighten down on it. This squeezes the sides together so there is now a slight interference fit. Then slop plenty of lapping compound between the slide and frame then make lots of suggestive motions to get the two pieces lapped into each other. -pretty much what you did. It does help as you found out. Sure gives it a tight smooth feel when you work the slide now. 

Because of all those liability concerns, triggers now have so much darn travel you can take a nap before it goes off. It also takes 2 men and a boy to pull on it!  A lot of improvement can be done with the adjustment screws.  Well, if it has any. My experience with modern handguns is not all that great. Found a few models that no longer (maybe never where?) made with any. Replacing springs can be a cheap fix with some twiddling on the adjustment screws, if there are any. 

As 25-06 pointed out, there are all kinds of jigs and fixtures (is there a difference between the two?) to help you. I use home made (okay, actually shop made) fixtures. They are mostly to insure I keep the stones perpendicular to the sides of the part. Usually I do want to change the contact angles, but that is another subject. If you are really careful, you can stone the parts....takes a steady hand though!

I also keep a can of surface hardener handy for re-hardening after "experiencing a creative opportunity" ..not that I ever have had to use it of course!

Even though I get paid to do this stuff, always like to hear of someone trying to do it themselves. That is part of what made this country so great. We can do it ourselves. You do have to be a bit careful, be mindful of details, and use your brain. Let's face it, what is the worse you can do? Ruin a few parts that can be replaced by someone with gunsmith on the shingle outside? Go for it. The most important part after you are done is to check on safety. With the thing cocked and an empty chamber (sheesh, even I am getting into the liability act) try to get the thing to fire by wiggling, shaking, banging everything and doing it at odd angles. If that doesn't work and pulling the trigger does, then you have done a successful job. Congradulations are in order!

Good luck,
Chris


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## hayseed_theology (Oct 28, 2009)

I did a trigger job on my 686 so I'll offer a few thoughts.  First off, I recommend buying Jerry Miculek's Trigger Job DVD.  Then I recommend Kuhnhausen(sp?) S&W shop manual.

It depends on what year your 686 was made.  If you open up the cylinder, the model and serial number shoulder be stamped on the frame in the yoke area.  It should say 686-2 or 686-6, or something like that.  The earlier models have forged internal parts while later models have Metal-Injection-Molded parts.  The forged parts will respond better to a trigger job.  If you have MIM parts, be very careful.  They are case hardened but very soft on the inside, if you stone through the case hardening you ruin the part.

The Miculek video will tell what kind of stone and files to buy.  It will show you which parts to stone and what angles.  

Wolff springs sells several kits for L frame revolvers like yours that are available from MidwayUSA.  Depending on what you are using it for, you can choose your springs in accordance.  In my 686, I have a standard power wolff mainspring and a 15# rebound spring.  Both are very close to factory but offer me some advantage.  If you don't use the gun for self-defense you can get lighter with the springs.

Don't just replace the springs without smoothing the action.  You don't necessarily want a light trigger, you want a smoother trigger.  That's what makes a colt revolver so great, a smooth trigger.  Now, even semi-auto guys enjoy shooting my 686 double action.

Like someone said, be careful taking the sideplate off.  My first time, I didn't know what I was doing and just pryed it off with a flathead screwdriver, not good.  After all the screws are out of the side plate, you take a rubber mallet and tap the frame. The sideplate will then just pop off.  Also, if its a later model Smith, be careful to keep up with the handspring, rebound spring, and cylinder stop spring.  Those little things can go missing if you drop 'em on the carpet or send them flying across the living room.

But definitely get the Miculek DVD if you are gonna try it.


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## hayseed_theology (Oct 28, 2009)

If you do decide to get a trigger job done by a professional, I would look into the Smith & Wesson Performance Center shop.

They've got an Express Master Revolver Action Job for $165.  I think that's gonna be on the high end but I hear they do really top notch work.

http://www.smith-wesson.com/webapp/...alogId=10001&content=18302&sectionId=11522#ep


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## gunhand1911 (Nov 7, 2009)

Take it to David at adventure outdoors smyrna ga. he did 2 for me and they are way better then my s&w custom shop gun ! 770333 9880


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