# The Lye Soap Process...



## Artmom (Aug 3, 2010)

Hey, everyone. A few of you had asked about the soap making process. Yes, I use "real" lye and no; it doesn't remain caustic and won't harm you after the chemical reactions change the composition of the ingredients. Here are a few pictures of how it all works:


Using a recipe....I add lye to water (rainwater or springwater when I have it). You MUST add lye to water NOT water to lye. Lots of things I can't go into  here about types of containers to use (for safety) etc... NOT kidding - some really bad things can happen if you don't know what to do and to have on hand in an emergency - I HAVE burned my hands badly, _*once*_.
This must cool to around 120 degrees.
I melt or render animal fat (or vegetable oil if I absolutely HAVE to). Animal fat makes superioir soap...very hard and amazingly long lasting...(No, it won't smell bad or make you feel oily...again, a chemical change takes place and completely changes the initial ingredients into a different product).
The fat must be at a temperature similar to that of the lye water to combine the two. Too cool won't work and neither will too warm. Yeah, I have done enough now that I don't have to use a thermometer...I can tell by touch -
I hand mix the two solutions. This can take a WHILE depending on the type fat being used and the temp and humidity of the day - I can accelerate the process using an ice bath, also, in really warm weather.
Now, as the mixture thickens - it will look like pudding or batter.
This is the time to add "extra" stuff (oatmeal, rosemary, whatever). Wait too long...and there are problems -
Have "molds" READY ahead of time and "in position" as Nicodemus would say...yeah, there are specifics here too - too much to go into -
Pour soap into molds at correct stage of "thickening" -
Cover and allow to cure - "wait' patiently  anywhere from 24 - 72 hours.
Pull from molds and cut using string, wire, or floss...
Allow to "cure" 3 -4 weeks depending upon a few different factors.
You now have soap.

Using scents and vegetable oils can get costly due to the ratios needed for large batches. Animal fats are far more desirable for a number of reasons, which is why I ask for the fat any time anyone has some to spare. It allows me to keep my costs down so that I can give the soap away to you all...


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## Artmom (Aug 3, 2010)

Oh, the "speckled" appearance is dried and crushed rosemary from my garden (yeah, has to be dried first, will go "bad" otherwise and some weird stuff happens -)...and sorry I didn't have any pics of finished bars to post. Will do that in a few weeks for ya'll so you can see the end result.


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## gtparts (Aug 3, 2010)

You are to be congratulated for the clever "old school" approach to the "simple life". Can't say making soap appeals to me , but glad it isn't a lost art. Looks like it might be fun if the process wasn't dangerous.


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## Twenty five ought six (Aug 3, 2010)

Knowing that I'm handy around the house, I've had a couple of local hobbiest soap makers ask me where they could get lye.  Apparently all the local hardware stores and home supply stores have taken it off their shelves, thank you very much methheads.  I hadn't used any lye in a while (paint stripper, drain cleaner) so I wasn't aware that it had become a scare commodity.

These soapmakers don't want enough to order it on-line.

Are you able to get lye locally?


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## lakelbr (Aug 3, 2010)

Do you use equal parts of lye solution and fat?


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## Capt Quirk (Aug 3, 2010)

I'm getting ready to start making soap myself. I also plan on making my own lye, and already saving up hardwood ash.


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## Artmom (Aug 3, 2010)

Twenty five ought six said:


> Knowing that I'm handy around the house, I've had a couple of local hobbiest soap makers ask me where they could get lye.  Apparently all the local hardware stores and home supply stores have taken it off their shelves, thank you very much methheads.  I hadn't used any lye in a while (paint stripper, drain cleaner) so I wasn't aware that it had become a scare commodity.
> 
> These soapmakers don't want enough to order it on-line.
> 
> Are you able to get lye locally?




Yep. *Ace Hardware* stores still stock it in my area. Yeah...those meth-heads kinda ruined it for hobbyists needing certain supplies. Also, Tractor Supply _may_ have it. Forget Wal - Mart or anything similar...


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## Artmom (Aug 3, 2010)

*No!*



lakelbr said:


> Do you use equal parts of lye solution and fat?




No, there are all sorts of ratios. You can find the recipes online if you use Google. If you need assistance, pm me. I can send a few basic recipes.

Truly, _READ_ and research carefully before starting...it's not a big deal but you do need to know just a few things before starting. Good luck!


_Hey...Capt. Quirk: that's my next project...to start leeching my own lye water from hardwood ash, as well. Funny you mentioned that. Was just speaking of the process to someone on here a week or two ago. You are right: hardwood ash, only..._


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## Brad Singley (Aug 3, 2010)

Artmom,  To cool!  I really enjoyed your tutorial on the process.  I think it was mentioned in another thread about our great forum we have here,  glad you are a part of it!  Thanks again.

Brad


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## Nicodemus (Aug 3, 2010)

Very good thread! Good soap too!


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## Muddyfoots (Aug 3, 2010)

Nicodemus said:


> Very good thread! Good soap too!



Maybe she'll hold on to a bar, or two, from this batch for me..


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## Ta-ton-ka chips (Aug 3, 2010)

Nicodemus said:


> Very good thread! Good soap too!



Great soap! I really enjoyed the bar I got back at the Chehaw Festival. I guess that bar ran out about 2-3 months ago, my friends say I need another.


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## threeleggedpigmy (Aug 3, 2010)

Ta-ton-ka chips said:


> Great soap! I really enjoyed the bar I got back at the Chehaw Festival. I guess that bar ran out about 2-3 months ago, my friends say I need another.



Your welcome!



I will pay the over night frieght.


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## NCHillbilly (Aug 4, 2010)

Very cool. My grandma made soap all the way from scratch by dripping wood ashes to make lye. Mom made it with Red Devil lye. I have a few bars of mom's soap that I keep saved back-it'll get stains out of clothes that nothing else will touch.


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## Artmom (Aug 4, 2010)

*true...*



NCHillbilly said:


> Very cool. My grandma made soap all the way from scratch by dripping wood ashes to make lye. Mom made it with Red Devil lye. I have a few bars of mom's soap that I keep saved back-it'll get stains out of clothes that nothing else will touch.



It does seem to get some stains out better than detergent, I've noticed...and still, doesn't harm your skin, when processed correctly. I rarely buy "commercial" soap. And, as someone else had mentioned, the bars do last much longer than these softer (that turn to mush) "store bought" brands.


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## Fletch_W (Aug 4, 2010)

Can't you get your own lye from ashes?


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## Bkeepr (Aug 4, 2010)

I make a base soap from lard and veggie fats, and after curing remelt it and add honey and scents to it.  I like to use lemongrass and rosemary oil.  Then I put it into honeybee-themed soap molds.  Brushy Mountain Bee Farm was selling beeswax, soapmaking supplies and essential oils.   

A deer hunting soap scented with pine or cedar would be good!


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## Ta-ton-ka chips (Aug 4, 2010)

Bkeepr said:


> I make a base soap from lard and veggie fats, and after curing remelt it and add honey and scents to it.  I like to use lemongrass and rosemary oil.  Then I put it into honeybee-themed soap molds.  Brushy Mountain Bee Farm was selling beeswax, soapmaking supplies and essential oils.
> 
> A deer hunting soap scented with pine or cedar would be good!



Pine soap - you could make little molds of deer, bears, and little pigs.


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## turkey foot (Aug 4, 2010)

My Grandma used to make lye soap in the 1940's and 1950's.
She used to say," one rub no dirt, two rubs, no skin."


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## Artmom (Aug 4, 2010)

*great!*



Bkeepr said:


> I make a base soap from lard and veggie fats, and after curing remelt it and add honey and scents to it.  I like to use lemongrass and rosemary oil.  Then I put it into honeybee-themed soap molds.  Brushy Mountain Bee Farm was selling beeswax, soapmaking supplies and essential oils.
> 
> A deer hunting soap scented with pine or cedar would be good!




Yes, I've read about using honey but I also knew it could react and begin to heat again several hours into the process. Was kinda wary of it. Sounds like you are doing a great job and have it down to a science! I LOVE the lemongrass oil. I have about 6 oils I like to use in varying combinations. I have also taken orange peel (I dried it also, first) and dried rosemary and made a great scented rainwater that I used with the lye. I soaked this is a Mason jar in the fridge for about 2 weeks prior to soapmaking.

 Do you use a stick blender (electric) or some other utensil? I prefer a wisk to anything else I've tried. Electric mixers (handheld with beaters) just cause my soap to thicken too quickly sometimes...


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## blues brother (Aug 5, 2010)

Sara,
This is cool. Kinda like making 'shine...almost a lost art!

If your soap will get out bbq grease stains out of my aprons and shirts I would pay almost any price for some!!
Might even swap some BBQ for a bar!


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## Bkeepr (Aug 5, 2010)

Hi Artmom, when I get home I will have to find the book that I got the recipes out of, it gives recipes for both base soaps and then milled soaps made from the base soaps.  I will post the title.  I like your rain scent recipe, I will have to try that!  And the pine scented soap in animal shapes is a good idea too.  It would make good Christmas gifts.  Another recipe I like is adding cinnamon oil and ground cinnamon to the base soap...mmmmm!  Perks you up in the shower.

When I mix up the base soaps I just use a wooden spoon and sit on the porch and stir.  I have never used a mixer, but in one of the recipes in the book you make a floating "Ivory" soap by beating air into it.

I wait until the base soap is completely cured and then make my honey/cornmeal soap from that so the lye is not present to break down the scents and goodies.

I too like using animal fats in my soaps!  

I bought some soap from another market vendor, they buy their scents on line and there is one called "Monkeyfarts" LOL!! I bought it for my niece who is nicknamed Monkey.  It is a blend of coconut, banana and pineapple.


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## Artmom (Aug 5, 2010)

*yeah -*



Bkeepr said:


> Hi Artmom, when I get home I will have to find the book that I got the recipes out of, it gives recipes for both base soaps and then milled soaps made from the base soaps.  I will post the title.  I like your rain scent recipe, I will have to try that!  And the pine scented soap in animal shapes is a good idea too.  It would make good Christmas gifts.  Another recipe I like is adding cinnamon oil and ground cinnamon to the base soap...mmmmm!  Perks you up in the shower.
> 
> When I mix up the base soaps I just use a wooden spoon and sit on the porch and stir.  I have never used a mixer, but in one of the recipes in the book you make a floating "Ivory" soap by beating air into it.
> 
> ...




Yeah, I would like to make the milled soaps. I know that you have to let the bars cure and then rebatch...I tried it once or twice but haven't mastered it yet. You get an even longer lasting bar and as you already know, THAT is the best way (rebatching/milling the dried flakes) to retain the scents from the oils (heat destroys the scent as you said, as the bars tend to heat and cool several times throughout the initial stages) - I need to work on that...but it's hard to wait 3-4 weeks and then reprocess and have to wait AGAIN for the moisture to evaporate!

I am glad you hand mix, too. Just doesn't seem right to use electric mixers. I like waiting for it to change and going through the process. It's pretty cool  how when the temperatures drop in Fall and Winter, how much faster the mixture begins to "set". I would sit my glass bowls on really cold concrete or floor tile while stirring and it went QUICKLY!

Hey, you can use grits the same as cornmeal to add a mild abrasive texture. You probably already knew!


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## Artmom (Aug 5, 2010)

*yep*



Fletch_W said:


> Can't you get your own lye from ashes?



_Yes, you surely can. It's easy. ...But BE CAREFUL. 

I just am not that patient and I need everything to be uniform and consistent so that I get the same results each time since I give this stuff away to folks. Don't want to take any chances ...but yeah, plan to start doing this  this Fall. _




Ta-ton-ka chips said:


> Pine soap - you could make little molds of deer, bears, and little pigs.



_I'm making note of it! Might just surprise you one day..._




blues brother said:


> Sara,
> This is cool. Kinda like making 'shine...almost a lost art!
> 
> If your soap will get out bbq grease stains out of my aprons and shirts I would pay almost any price for some!!
> Might even swap some BBQ for a bar!



*You know I'll be sure to save some for you...don't know if it will remove the grease but can make a bar that is slightly "lye heavy" they call it - just to see...*


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## Bkeepr (Aug 5, 2010)

The book I use is"The Complete Soapmaker" by Norma Coney.  I love making soap and also trying other people's soap.  Once I tried to make some goat milk soap...not good.  It stank like a Billy goat!


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## HALOJmpr (Aug 5, 2010)

Artmom said:


> Yep. *Ace Hardware* stores still stock it in my area. Yeah...those meth-heads kinda ruined it for hobbyists needing certain supplies. Also, Tractor Supply _may_ have it. Forget Wal - Mart or anything similar...



I'm not sure if it's the Lye you want but in Tractor Supply in the plumbing sections they have some very strong Drain cleaners that are pretty much pure lye liquid.  Is this what you need?  It is usually in a black bottle that is packaged in a plastic bag on the lower shelves.  If they don't have it at your TSC then message me and I'll get the item # so they can rain check it for you!


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## Bkeepr (Aug 6, 2010)

You have to look on the bottle to make sure that it is 100% lye, NaOH (sodium hydroxide).  Red Devil Lye is 100%.


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## Bkeepr (Aug 6, 2010)

oops, sideways photo!


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## Artmom (Aug 6, 2010)

*grin*



HALOJmpr said:


> I'm not sure if it's the Lye you want but in Tractor Supply in the plumbing sections they have some very strong Drain cleaners that are pretty much pure lye liquid.  Is this what you need?  It is usually in a black bottle that is packaged in a plastic bag on the lower shelves.  If they don't have it at your TSC then message me and I'll get the item # so they can rain check it for you!





Bkeepr said:


> You have to look on the bottle to make sure that it is 100% lye, NaOH (sodium hydroxide).  Red Devil Lye is 100%.



Thanks, HALO ! - You do have to be certain it's 100% lye like Bkeepr said....otherwise there are metallic compunds in the drain cleaners that are BAD NEWS!!! I am fortunate to be able to get all I need from our Ace Hardware for now. But if they ever close.....!!!

Nice pics Bkeepr!!! I'd better step up my game!!!


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## david w. (Aug 6, 2010)

I like soap.


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## Artmom (Aug 7, 2010)

*okay -*



david13 said:


> I like soap.



You were looking for a hobby...right???
Saw the other thread - there's no time like the present!​


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## david w. (Aug 7, 2010)

Artmom said:


> You were looking for a hobby...right???
> Saw the other thread - there's no time like the present!​



Yes,I want a hobby.


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## david w. (Aug 7, 2010)

Oh and great job on the soap.


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## turtlebug (Aug 9, 2010)

Keep up the good work Sarah.  

I've been getting a few different lye soaps from a lady online for a while now and there is no comparison. When it's done right, old fashioned lye soap is so much easier and better for your skin.  

I stock up for winter hunting with a scent free version that has buttermilk and some other oils to keep my skin from drying out. The charcoal versions have worked great for my son's eczema. 

That is a true talent to be proud of girl!


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## Artmom (Aug 11, 2010)

turtlebug said:


> Keep up the good work Sarah.
> 
> I've been getting a few different lye soaps from a lady online for a while now and there is no comparison. When it's done right, old fashioned lye soap is so much easier and better for your skin.
> 
> ...



Thanks, Lea! I know, people _just can't believe_ that it could actually be good for your skin because they hear the word "lye" and freak! It IS so much more gentle and good to/for the skin than commercially produced soap because the majority of them are made with really harsh detergents and petroleum based ingredients - very drying and irritating to many people ....that buttermilk  version sounds wonderful! I bet it is great stuff. Have never seen any recipe like that though I know of many with the honey as a moisturizing agent.

So glad she has a product that has been helpful for your son.  Others who have allergies may benefit from reading this! Can't hurt to try. In many cases the oldest and simplest products and designs were/are superior to those of today.

Hey! This Fall I'll make some over at the Poole's place when you (and possibly the children) are there so ya'll can see it as it goes through the process if ya want. It won't "cure" in that short amount of time but we can pour it into molds at least!


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## parrothead127 (Aug 16, 2010)

Is the lye you buy at Ace packaged as TSP cleaner? I work at an Ace store, I looked today and that is what they are calling lye. I'm not sure it is what I'm looking for.


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## TNGIRL (Aug 17, 2010)

Cool post Sarah!!!! Looking forward to the process at the Poole place in Sept maybe!!!!
Also, I grown lemon balm and peppermint....would you want some of either to dry for soap? Just a thought, as I might be seeing you at BigJim's this weekend if all goes well. Let me know and I'll cut some of both to bring with me.
Bkper, that bee mold is lovely!!!!!


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## Keebs (Aug 17, 2010)

Awesome thread, Sara!!  I'm down to one bar from what I got from you at Chehaw, I love it!!


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## Dawg Tired (Aug 18, 2010)

Awsome post!! Great job!!!


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## TheBadfish (Aug 21, 2010)

lakelbr said:


> Do you use equal parts of lye solution and fat?



You can consult a "saponification chart" online. These charts tell you known concentrations of triacylglycerols in certain types of oils. In the saponification process, the 3 fatty acid chains are broken from the glycerol backbone. The products are 1) glycerol and 2) soap. If you did not use a chart, you would need to do a titration. This tells you how many fatty acids are present and thus how much of a base is needed (sodium hydroxide, or "lye" but really sodium hydroxide, or potassium hydroxide.)

The same process but with methanol added to the aqueous NaOH solution will yield a reaction known as a transesterification and you will produce 1) glycerol and 2) Biodiesel.

Glycerol can be obtained from both of these reactions and used in other reactions, but I don't think I should describe those.....


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## TheBadfish (Aug 21, 2010)

Oh and nice soap! I just couldn't pass up the chance to talk chemistry. Usually no one likes to listen. 

On a safety note, it's a good idea to keep some vinegar in arms reach in case of a chemical burn. If you are contacted with a base (lye or sodium hydroxide), you need to neutralize it with an acid. Vinegar is a 5% solution of acetic acid and will neutralize the burn faster than water.

Yeah and be careful of getting a base in your eyes. Even the vapors. Your eyes are primarily made of protein. Bases denature proteins. So getting a base in your eyes is actually worse than getting an acid in them. FYI


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## godawgsrw (Aug 24, 2010)

This was a great and informative thread!  I'm going to pass it along to my wife who is working with beeswax to make the soaps.


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## Artmom (Sep 5, 2010)

Gosh! I'm glad folks thought this was interesting! I hadn't checked back in a while. Really glad others posted their knowledge/information. It added greatly to what I posted intially...


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## doenightmare (Sep 6, 2010)

Sarah the *"Soap Queen"*
Seems like a cool hobby...


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## chehawknapper (Sep 6, 2010)

Sarah, What kind of animal fats do you want? Does kidney fat work better than the muscle fats? I will save some for you that you can pick up in January at Chehaw if you would like.
Ben Kirkland


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## carver (Sep 6, 2010)

*soap*

The process is very Interesting.


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## Artmom (Sep 6, 2010)

*Yes!*



chehawknapper said:


> Sarah, What kind of animal fats do you want? Does kidney fat work better than the muscle fats? I will save some for you that you can pick up in January at Chehaw if you would like.
> Ben Kirkland



Absolutely! Kidney fat is THE BEST. You know how few people would know that???? I only have read it myself twice, after 3 years of reading various articles and recipes.....it is probably mentioned in books from time to time....but it is an obscure fact, for sure.

I would LOVE and GREATLY appreciate the contribution in January. I have to resort to buying fat from a local butcher, often -  and it makes it more costly to produce the soap, as expected......

But I do use any lard, tallow, fat from any portion of the animal.
With the kidney fat I will make a separate quantity of soap and get back to you via Nic!


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## Willjo (Aug 8, 2011)

bump


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## safebuilder (Aug 9, 2011)

For all those that need Lye for soap making contact info@midnightapothecary.com. I think they have other supplies for soap as well


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