# '93 Mauser Firing Pin Spring?



## bevills1 (Jul 12, 2008)

Can anybody tell me anything about replacing firing pin spring on '93 Spanish Mauser that's been rechambered in 308?  I once replaced a broken firing pin in a Marlin 22 auto which wasn't difficult and would like to know how easy or difficult it might be to replace firing pin spring on a '93 Mauser.  Can I do it myself, or is a gunsmith required?  Also where might I get a replacement spring?


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## NOYDB (Jul 12, 2008)

The mauser bolt is easy to work on. Yours will be very close to this one. http://www.surplusrifle.com/mauserswedish/boltdisassembly/index.asp

There are some minor differences, but with the pics you should be able to figure it out.

I believe you are asking about what is called the main spring.

Some parts sources:

http://www.ssporters.com/parts/93 95 Mauser.htm

http://www.e-gunparts.com/products.asp?chrMasterModel=1780z1893 SPANISH&MC=


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## bevills1 (Jul 13, 2008)

It appears I'd not need to go past step 7 of disassembly in surplusrifle link to replace the main spring if I understand it correctly.  The parts links don't list the main spring specifically, and I'm guessing I'd need to contact them to see if they have that part.  Do you know if that's correct?


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## NOYDB (Jul 14, 2008)

The two links I posted, both have main springs in their lists. 

It's one of those things that's only hard the first time.


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## bevills1 (Jul 19, 2008)

Just got the rifle back from friend's house to discover the safety can't be moved from the left (fire) position, and therefore unable to follow disassembly instructions since instruction say to move safety to the middle (upright) safe position.  Does anybody know what may be the cause of this or how to fix it?  The gun seems to cock okay and trigger releases the firing pin when pulled, but no mark is made on the primer resulting in gun not firing.  I suspected the bolt may just need R&R and cleaning while disassembled, but now I don't know after discovering this safety problem.  Has anyone had this kind of problem experience or have any ideas?  BTW I found mainspring in both parts lists in links given by NOYDB.

Edit:  I called Bob's Firearms in Palmetto, Georgia, and he told me how to correct the safety failure and not firing problems which was to pull back the cocking piece with bolt removed from gun and rotate the bolt sleeve 1 turn clockwise.  This fixed the safety operation which works correctly now with bolt closed.  However, the bolt sleeve rotates freely when removed from the gun with safety in the middle (upright) safe position.  Bolt sleeve is locked in place and doesn't rotate if bolt is removed with safety in the left (fire) position.  Would bolt R&R be likely to correct this problem, or what might be needed to fix this problem?  The inoperable safety and failure to fire problems are sure to recur if the problem isn't fixed, i.e. unless care is taken to always remove the bolt in the left (fire) position.


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## NOYDB (Jul 19, 2008)

It's supposed to rotate freely when it's in the safe position, that's the position it needs to be in for disassembly. 

Follow the instruction and pics on the link and take it apart and clean the bejeebers out of it. Remember to properly lubricate all parts with a gun lube before re-assembly.

It's possible it wasn't re-assembled correctly by the last person to work on it. It would be unusual for the main spring to be the problem. The firing pin can break but I would verify that before ordering parts. Like I said once you've done it, it will seem easy from then on. It's really a very simple design. Which is why it's stood the test of time and is still once of the most popular actions built.

And do use a block of wood or some other protection when you press release the mainspring. It WILL mar the kitchen table if you don't.


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## bevills1 (Jul 20, 2008)

IMO that's a bad design because it may allow bolt to rotate 1 turn out (counterclockwise) without realizing it resulting in rifle not firing and safety not functioning like happened in this instance.  There should be a spring loaded button, lever or something that prevents it from rotating counterclockwise until that button or lever is depressed when disassembly is desired.  However, I suppose I'll just have to remember to remove bolt only with safety in the left (fire) position to prevent recurrence of this malfunction.  

Note I was unable to follow any of those instructions from that link because the bolt sleeve would not rotate at all until I followed the instructions given by the nice gentleman at Bob's Firearms.  He could have just said bring it in and let us look at it, and then charge a fee like so many gun shops do.  It only took about a minute to fix it with those simple instructions from Bob's Firearms.


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## NOYDB (Jul 20, 2008)

I'm glad you got it working.

But you may want to consider something. I don't know if anyone knows exactly how many hundreds of thousands of pre-98 Mausers were made. Or millions of 98s. And millions of shooters have been able to operate them just fine. 

But you have a "problem" so there must be something wrong with the design.

Re-think that.


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## bevills1 (Jul 20, 2008)

Perhaps somebody already did rethink the design, and that may just be one of the reasons '98 Mausers were developed and replaced the '93 and '95 Mausers.  It would be bad enough for this problem to ruin a hunt, but it might cost one's life if it occurred in combat!  

Maybe millions of shooters learned to avoid problems that may arise from that bad design like I did, i.e. leave the darn safety in fire position when bolt is removed.  The early Mausers were cutting edge innovations when developed, but '98 Mausers wouldn't have been developed if not for short comings of earlier Mausers.


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## jimkim (Jul 20, 2008)

So your shroud wasnt screwed all the way in ..........and it 's a design flaw???
REDNECK PLEEEEEEZE!!!!


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## NOYDB (Jul 20, 2008)

Horsekerplople.

It works as designed. If you leave it on safe and remove the bolt, unless you are doing something to it, by deliberately turning it, it just sits there as is until you put the bolt back in. Other than cleaning, you don't have a reason to take the bolt out, in which case you'd want to have it on safe for dis-assembly anyways. 

Just because the careless or foolish can screw something up that everyone else can operate just fine doesn't mean it's a design flaw. 

But just for giggles, I stripped mine all the way down and put it back together. '95 Chilean. If you don't assemble it right it won't go into the receiver. Unless you are one full turn out, but then it is so obvious that it is not seated. 

What can I say? I read the manuals and follow the instructions. And everything always works for me.


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## bevills1 (Jul 21, 2008)

The problem is that it doesn't just sit there.  It is apt to tend to rotate counterclockwise even while unloading the rifle in the safe position, and that's a design flaw IMO; there should at least be some resistance there like a few foot inches or something to not allow it to turn unintentionally.  Do you think using a dab of locktite might be a solution to the problem?  If not, I may be relegated to sticking with safety in fire position for unloading and bolt removal for cleaning.  

BTW I don't stoop to name calling and don't appreciate it either.  This problem is real, and I'm sure anyone would realize it when he/she sees it first hand.


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## NOYDB (Jul 21, 2008)

bevills1 said:


> The problem is that it doesn't just sit there.  It is apt to tend to rotate counterclockwise even while unloading the rifle in the safe position, and that's a design flaw IMO; there should at least be some resistance there like a few foot inches or something to not allow it to turn unintentionally.  Do you think using a dab of locktite might be a solution to the problem?  If not, I may be relegated to sticking with safety in fire position for unloading and bolt removal for cleaning.
> 
> BTW I don't stoop to name calling and don't appreciate it either.  This problem is real, and I'm sure anyone would realize it when he/she sees it first hand.



Yup, you got a real problem. Your bolt assembly has been modified/worked on in the past and/or has been shot and otherwise used to point of wear failure. 

DO NOT USE Locktite on it.

The threads should snug everything up tight enough that it shouldn't move on it's own or from normal manipulation. 

Depending on the quality of the rest of the gun it may be worth spending $$$ to try to correct the problem.

I strongly suggest you take it or send it to a gunsmith that is experienced with Mausers.  The whole gun needs a good looking over before you spend any more money.

They are neat guns with historic and just for fun value. But being around a hundred years old (some more, some less, depending on model) they can be any where on the spectrum from just used to abused to the point of making a really awkward club.

And to be blunt, you don't appear to have the expertise to make an informed decision.

Get hands on help before you spend a lot of money.

And don't be so touchy. Factual info/requests deserve the same response. But when you venture an opinion you're fair game.


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## bevills1 (Jul 21, 2008)

Do you think inserting a flat washer of appropriate thickness and diameter might work if I can find one?  I only have about $140 in the gun and will probably just live with the situation unless I can fix it myself.  I suspect a gunsmith would likely charge $25 just to look at it and maybe quite a bit more depending on time needed.

Maybe it is just well worn and not a design flaw, but that still doesn't justify resorting to name calling.  This rifle has a problem which others may not fully understand, but that's even more reason to not be too critical IMO.  Somebody can strongly disagree or tell me I'm wrong for this or that reason, but name calling simply is unjustified.  I've never stooped that low and never will, and I'll leave that to the less scrupulous.


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## jimkim (Jul 21, 2008)

No sense of humor huh? I formally apologize for calling you a redneck. I meant it as a joke. I would take it to a smith. You never know what else might be worn (like the lugs on the bolt) that might cause excessive headspace. If your determined to shoot it, one thing that might help would be to put some thick grease on the threads. That should gum it up a little until you can get a bolt shroud that has a tighter fit.


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## bevills1 (Jul 21, 2008)

Thanks for the apology.  There doesn't seem to be anything else wrong with the gun.  I've had the rifle over 15 years and it shoots about 1.5" groups at 100 yards with no signs of headspace problems.  I've had a couple of other '93 Mausers that had headspace problems, and I know signs of excessive headspace.  By heavy grease do you mean something like lithium grease or bearing grease?

The first link in post #2 here shows bolt body and bolt sleeve which is the part that screws into bolt body and has safety attached to it.  By bolt shroud do you mean bolt sleeve or bolt body?  Would replacing the bolt sleeve possibly correct the problem, or would replacing both these parts correct it?   The bolt sleeve and bolt body are $5 and $10 respectively in that first parts link in post #2.  I believe replacing the bolt body might require headspace be adjusted.  Is that correct?


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## jimkim (Jul 21, 2008)

Sorry, yes I mean sleeve. On a '98 the front of the sleeve is your gas shroud. In the event of case failure it keeps you from having hot gas sprayed in your face. I would try lithium or any heavy grease. It needs to be something that wont break down. Remember this is temporary. Go to a gun show and take your bolt.  You can try different sleeves until you get a tighter one.   Your right you might have to adjust your headspace if you replace the body.


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## NOYDB (Jul 21, 2008)

Ok, you've had the gun for 15 yrs and have been shooting it with no previous indications of a problem? You've had previous '93s, I assume they didn't have this problem either?

Straight up. Take it to a gunsmith.


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## bevills1 (Jul 22, 2008)

Actually it's had the unwanted counterclockwise rotation since I got it, but this is the first time it got 1 turn out causing loss of safety operation and failure to fire.  I think I'll try to find a bolt sleeve that fits tightly as jimkim suggests.  That should be very easy to do and inexpensive too.

The previous '93s didn't have this problem, and excess headspace was the only problem with them.  I don't want to put a lot into a rifle I only have $140 in, and I endured the problem for 15 plus years with no malfunction until recently.  I now know how to fix it if the problem recurs, and I'll just tolerate it if I'm unable to fix it by bolt sleeve replacement.  Thanks for all the helpful info and advice.


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