# Minivan Axle rating?



## bnew17 (Feb 10, 2012)

Does anybody know how much a Plymouth minivan axle is rated for?


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## zedex (Feb 14, 2012)

Not much.

Minivans do not use axle ratings as they are front wheel drive. Open the door {some cases, the glove box door} and you will find a decal showing what the vehicle weighs and what its max capacity is. Subtract the weight from the rating to get the absolute most it is rated for.

Chrysler products are not rated for much, usually around 600 pounds in addition to vehicle weight. Another way, though more difficult, is to measure the distance between spring coils. Load until the distance is cut in half. NEVER use the top or bottom three coils- always check the center coils.

If the vehicle is equipped with "progressive" coils, measure the larger coil distances. "Progressive" or "variable rate" coil springs have some coils close together and some spaced further apart- usually the bottom half is spread more and top half is wound closer.

 The reason for using the larger coils is that they are the first to start collapsing under load. The "progressive" section takes over once the standard coils reached their limit. Use the "half measurement" to allow for spring compression and recoil travel. On average, a suspension will travel up and down about 1500 times per minute.

Side note: Ford minis are the worst about load bearing. Their coils are notorious for breakage under even light to medium loads. GM minis seem to fare far better under stress and Chrysler is in the middle.

You can improve load capacity {suspension-wise} by adding airbags {expensive but worth it if frequent loads are carried}. Be sure you have enough engine to pull the load, though. On minis that use shocks and not struts, you may be able to find airshocks. 

The best way, however, is to buy some aftermarket "progressive" or "variable rate" springs. remember that the factory only uses what it can get by with. Aftermarket parts are usually superior to OEM. By using aftermarket parts, you get better ride control and you are better off than factory {weak} gear. They are also designed to keep you vehicle at the specified ride height --keeps better alignment configurations.




I have a 01 Dakota R/T and the rear leaf springs are pure junk. With only 350 pounds aboard, the body bumbers hit the axle. On my last trip that way, I had over 800 pounds of lures in the back. When I got into Seattle, I looked for air shocks for the truck {same as for the 68-70 Charger}. None to be found. I drove to Spokane-- found some but they were at another place in Seattle. Rather than drive back, I opted for some lift blocks, mounted them to the axle and the truck sat nearly level.

 The engine had no trouble pulling the load through the mountains and across country-- barely knew the load was there. 

In Ga, I tried to find a 68-70 Charger to yank the leaf springs out of. No luck. When I left, I still had the blocks mounted up. Again, no issues and barely noticed the load. { Came back heavier and through snow and ice}

Now, I have a spring shop making the springs needed as I sometimes pull 60,000 lures and other gear around.

 Odd thing is the sticker shows a 1000 pound capacity. That is pure **** The engine is up for the job, but the suspension is not.

Reason for telling you this: stock stuff is junk. Use your knowledge of your engine, distance and load expected and load accordingly. Some engines can handle more, some cannot. But make sure the vehicle can carry it piggyback first.


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## bnew17 (Feb 14, 2012)

I would be using the axle for a utility trailer. Its got leaf springs. I have no way of know exact ratings because i have the axle alone, not the van it was originally on.


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## rjcruiser (Feb 14, 2012)

The axle is probably fine...it's the springs that I'd worry about.  But even then, many utility trailer's have no springs/suspension.


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## bnew17 (Feb 14, 2012)

rjcruiser said:


> The axle is probably fine...it's the springs that I'd worry about.  But even then, many utility trailer's have no springs/suspension.



The springs are pretty long. I will be hauling probably up to 1000 pounds of wood on this trailer.


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## rjcruiser (Feb 14, 2012)

They'll probably bottom out...just have some good rubber stoppers on there and you should be fine.  Either that, or get hd leaf springs...or go with no suspension.

One thing I'd do before using any type of leaf spring....take them apart and make sure they're not rusted together.  Sand down any rust build up and put some axle greese between them and then put them back together.  This will allow them to flex easier and will give you a better ride.

All of this for a trailer might be too much work....but a thought.


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## bnew17 (Feb 14, 2012)

rjcruiser said:


> They'll probably bottom out...just have some good rubber stoppers on there and you should be fine.  Either that, or get hd leaf springs...or go with no suspension.
> 
> One thing I'd do before using any type of leaf spring....take them apart and make sure they're not rusted together.  Sand down any rust build up and put some axle greese between them and then put them back together.  This will allow them to flex easier and will give you a better ride.
> 
> All of this for a trailer might be too much work....but a thought.




im assuming the rubber stoppers can be found at a place like Tractor Supply?


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## zedex (Feb 14, 2012)

bnew17 said:


> im assuming the rubber stoppers can be found at a place like Tractor Supply?



 Perhaps, but I would pay a visit to the local boneyard. Most snubbers mounted to the frame are held on by a single bolt and one or two setpins. They should not charge you much, if anything. Just unbolt and go.

 As far as I know, I am the only person who has ever wanted them from a junker. This is a good thing as no demand usually means no charge.


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## thomas the redneck (Feb 14, 2012)

i'd use it and not worry one bit about a 1,000 lbs.
wouldnt try to haul a tractor on it


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## Reel Big-uns (Feb 15, 2012)

thomas the redneck said:


> i'd use it and not worry one bit about a 1,000 lbs.
> wouldnt try to haul a tractor on it



X2;
The original weight of the van has been completely eliminated and the weight of the trailer frame will be much less and considering the 1000 lb. load you'll be hauling, I would think this would still be less weight than what would be applied to it if the axel was still on a fully occupied mini van.


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## bnew17 (Feb 15, 2012)

TheReelMe said:


> X2;
> The original weight of the van has been completely eliminated and the weight of the trailer frame will be much less and considering the 1000 lb. load you'll be hauling, I would think this would still be less weight than what would be applied to it if the axel was still on a fully occupied mini van.



the axle tube on this axle i will be using is like 4 1/2" in diameter but its not a solid piece. its 1/4" thick.

Here is a picture of the axle.


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## Reel Big-uns (Feb 15, 2012)

Look at the numbers.
A Plymouth Voyager Minivan curb weight is approximately 3800 lbs.

Add 6 passengers averaging 140 lbs. each equals a total weight of 820 lbs.

3800 lbs. plus 820 lbs totaling 4620 lbs. gross.

4620 lbs. divided by 4 (number of wheels) averages out to have 1155 lbs of weight per wheel.

This gives an average weight of 2310 lbs., in which the axle had to support, when it was on the minivan.

As long as you keep the weight of the empty trailer less than 1310 lbs. will result in having 1000 lbs.+  that the trailer can haul. 

Add 250 lbs. more, that the trailer hitch can handle, will put  it at 1250 lbs. net for the trailer's payload capacity.


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## Reel Big-uns (Feb 16, 2012)

bnew17 said:


> the axle tube on this axle i will be using is like 4 1/2" in diameter but its not a solid piece. its 1/4" thick.
> 
> Here is a picture of the axle.



If it doesn't have any corrosion issues, the axle can handle more weight than the springs will support.

One more note of concern. 
If you're not going to connect up and use the brakes, on the axle, then all the components, associated with the axle's braking system, will have to be completely removed for it to be used, legally, as a brake-less trailer.


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## bnew17 (Feb 16, 2012)

I was able to find this last night while searching. looking at the wheels on the axle i believe the axle is from a 1995 Plymouth Voyager. Here is a screen shot of some specs. From what i have read the axle would be rated for half of the GAWR which would be 2,520?


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## poohbear (Feb 16, 2012)

It will be fine I used a axle from one of their k cars and extended it and made a car dolly , we've had pickup trucks on this thing with no problem, the k car axle im sure is lighter than the van.


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## thomas the redneck (Feb 16, 2012)

TheReelMe said:


> Look at the numbers.
> A Plymouth Voyager Minivan curb weight is approximately 3800 lbs.
> 
> Add 6 passengers averaging 140 lbs. each equals a total weight of 820 lbs.
> ...


wow eather you have why to much free time or you have a long drive to work like i do 
i thought of the same thing on my way to work this am my numbers were a little diffrent but still had the same out come (it will work)


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## deadend (Feb 16, 2012)

bnew17 said:


> Does anybody know how much a Plymouth minivan axle is rated for?



2 buggyfulls of groceries.


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## Reel Big-uns (Feb 17, 2012)

thomas the redneck said:


> wow eather you have why to much free time or you have a long drive to work like i do
> i thought of the same thing on my way to work this am my numbers were a little diffrent but still had the same out come (it will work)



Believe it or not, I have too much free time at work and no I'm not slackin on-the-job.

15 minutes, one way.

I am a conservative, so I kept my figures low and like said, I got too much time on my hands so I took the longer way of figuring.


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## bnew17 (Mar 8, 2012)

The wheels on this axle are 14" 5 lug wheels. im wanting to upgrade to a 15" or 16" 5 lug wheel. My question is with this axle being from a 95 plymouth van...will i have to get a dodge wheel to fit this?


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## Wahoo Creek (Mar 8, 2012)

I don't think so.  The bold pattern is likely 5 on 4.5", which is a fairly common bolt pattern.  Look to Jeeps (Wrangler, Cherokee but not Grand Cherokee) and some Ford products (Ford Rangers among others) for the 15" variety.

FWIW, using this type of axle for a trailer is discussed in a thread on an expedition forum I follow.  Let me know if you want a link to it.  Pretty sure I've got it at home on my laptop.


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## zedex (Mar 8, 2012)

Chrylser offered both the 14 and 15 inch wheels on these vans and they are interchangable in most cases. 

 When I was doing alignments, I had to check what was on the van and what it came with. Very often, I found someone had changed from one size to the other for reasons unknown.

 I did have one customer in upstate NY who could not find 15 inch rims in a boneyard so he used the 14 inch units to mount his studded tires on and twice {sometimes more} a year, I would swap out the tires/rims for the season and adjust alignment configurations to compensate for the ride height difference.


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## bnew17 (Mar 15, 2012)

What type and where can i get the brackets or hangers to fit this axle? You can see both ends of the springs in the picture further up in the thread


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## Reel Big-uns (Mar 15, 2012)

bnew17 said:


> What type and where can i get the brackets or hangers to fit this axle? You can see both ends of the springs in the picture further up in the thread



You are most likely going to need an experienced welder to build/modify the trailer frame.

The welder should be able to fabricate all the necessary components that will be needed to build the trailer, including the mounting brackets and hangers.

Don't forget to match everything up according to what dimension sizes the rubber bushing inserts are.


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## bnew17 (Mar 16, 2012)

Scale Inspector said:


> You are most likely going to need an experienced welder to build/modify the trailer frame.
> 
> The welder should be able to fabricate all the necessary components that will be needed to build the trailer, including the mounting brackets and hangers.
> 
> Don't forget to match everything up according to what dimension sizes the rubber bushing inserts are.



The axle will be sitting on a  4" x 4" x 1/4" sqaure tubing frame. Fabricating the components wont be much of a problem i hope!


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## Reel Big-uns (Mar 16, 2012)

bnew17 said:


> The axle will be sitting on a  4" x 4" x 1/4" square tubing frame. Fabricating the components wont be much of a problem i hope!



Have the brackets built as to where they can be bolted on to the frame using heavy duty, inside square u-bolts (2 u-bolts per side).
This will allow for adjustments to be made on positioning axle location and alignment.


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