# Coconut Oil on wood



## SarahFair (Jan 4, 2016)

Has anyone heard of using coconut oil to enhance wood?

I bought the bottom of armoire, dating from around the mid to late 1800s, that someone converted into a bench. 

The poor thing sat outside for who knows how long. The drawers were sealed shut from swelling. 
Those I have freed up and have put in a room with a dehumidifier. Seems to have worked but still a tight fit in there.


Anyways, I reupholstered the top and its time to make the bottom match it. 
I dont really want to paint it. I thought about staining it, but sanding it down will take a TON of effort. 

Someone suggested hemp oil. Googling I saw people using Coconut oil with beautiful results. 
Ive never used oils on wood to enhance them. 

Seeing as how I will be selling this piece I dont want the wood to absorb all the oil and the color just fade back to what it is...


So my question is, has anyone used coconut oil on wood and if so will the wood "drink it up" and dry out again, or will it retain the "look"


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## ryanh487 (Jan 5, 2016)

I would be worried about using a food based oil, as it will eventually go rancid.  Have you looked into mineral oil at all?


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## SarahFair (Jan 5, 2016)

Good point! 

I haven't looked into mineral oil. 

I watched a video of a man who split wood intro 4 or 5 sections and showed the different effects of different oils. 

I liked the rich reddish tone the boil linseed oil gives.


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## IFLY4U (Jan 5, 2016)

I have heard of folks using olive oil on wood and leather.


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## ol bob (Jan 5, 2016)

Boiled linseed oil used for years on gun stocks can't beat it


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## 10mmhunter (Jan 5, 2016)

My bamboo cutting boards instructions said to wash it and wipe it down with a light coat coconut oil after use.


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## Hoot (Jan 5, 2016)

ol bob said:


> Boiled linseed oil used for years on gun stocks can't beat it



This is tried & true.  Tung Oil or Danish Oil also.

Never heard of a "food" oil being used.  The "going rancid" thing mentioned above might be true.  I would research that more.

As far as sanding, do you have a cabinet scraper?  That is one of the most under-rated and useful tools ever developed.  I use mine for many, many things, and there are some tasks that no other tool can do.  But they are only good on flat areas.  Visualize no dust and not having to keep replacing worn out sandpaper.  Just sharpen (burnish) it once in a while.  The cost of several retail store packs of sandpaper will get you one of those and a burnisher.


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## Artfuldodger (Jan 5, 2016)

I've refinished a lot of furniture but never heard of a cabinet scraper. Thanks for the info., it looks like it would be very useful.

Example?
http://www.woodcraft.com/search2/se...abinet scraper&utm_content=Scrapers - Cabinet


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## Hoot (Jan 5, 2016)

Artfuldodger said:


> I've refinished a lot of furniture but never heard of a cabinet scraper. Thanks for the info., it looks like it would be very useful.
> 
> Example?
> http://www.woodcraft.com/search2/se...abinet scraper&utm_content=Scrapers - Cabinet



That's it.  Just a thin piece of hardened steel.  Rub the edge with a harder steel rod, and it puts a burr on the edge of the scraper.  Then you can remove finish, "sand" the wood really smooth, precisely shape the wood, or chamfer an edge on wood or plastic.  I've had the same one for over 20 years, and it will last forever.


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## antiguoRojo3 (Jan 5, 2016)

Tung oil or linseed oil.  Woodworkers have been using it for years.


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## SarahFair (Jan 5, 2016)

Thanks Hoot! Ill have to look into that cabinet scraper. 
I HATE sanding because sand paper needs to be replaced so often and then when you run out in the middle of a project its really annoying. 

I picked up some linseed oil today. Ill give it a go tomorrow.


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## Anvil Head (Jan 6, 2016)

Always test whatever you decide to use in an inconspicuious(sp) spot. Different woods respond differently especially old furniture woods. I'd never use veg oil on any wood due to the rancid issue, rodent attractant issue, and eventually sticky film issue.
Wouldn't even consider mineral oil unless you plan to eat food off the surface.
Scrapers are great old-school tools if shaped, sharpened, and used correctly beat the pants off any sandpaper made. Great repurpose for old skill saw blades.


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## Woodsman (Jan 6, 2016)

*A good trick for a quick scraper..*

Get a new razor blade, like the ones in a utility knife or paint scrapper. Take a screwdriver and rub the metal neck of the screwdriver down one side of the razor blade at about a 45 degree. It will lay that edge over to one side. Now take the razor blade and use it to scrap your wood smooth. The curved over edge should be pushed in the direction of scrapping. I was taught that one about 25 yrs ago. Use it all the time.


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## Artfuldodger (Jan 6, 2016)

Does the edge of the blade with the burr go up or down against the wood?


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## Hoot (Jan 6, 2016)

Artfuldodger said:


> Does the edge of the blade with the burr go up or down against the wood?



Down and against the wood, because the burr is what is doing the cutting.


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## Woodsman (Jan 6, 2016)

Hoot said:


> Down and against the wood, because the burr is what is doing the cutting.



You got it right. 

You will know when it's right. Just flip it over if does not scrap good.


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## Hoot (Jan 6, 2016)

Woodsman said:


> You got it right.
> 
> You will know when it's right. Just flip it over if does not scrap good.



Yep.  Very fine shavings curling up will let you know.  And the sound.  Those familiar with old-fashioned planes know that sound.  But that's on bare wood.  Scraping an old finish off behaves differently.

Working wood with hand tools is such a rewarding thing to do.


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## Anvil Head (Jan 7, 2016)

Just watch out for those pesky nails and staples or you'll have to resharpen.


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## flyfisher76544 (Jan 7, 2016)

We use coconut oil on most of our wooden utensils. It isn't like some of the other oils and I haven't heard of it going rancid or have had any issues myself.


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## flyrod444 (Jan 8, 2016)

linseed oil will work well. Just make sure and wipe excess off after applying it are it will take for ever to dry. I use walnut oil for most all my wood items that are for use with food. It is one of the only nut oils that cures like a finish should. It needs to be set in the sun to cure though. One big caution when using linseed oil depose all the rags or paper towels into a fire proof container or they can spontaneously combust into flames. It is one of the worst oils for this to occur. I put them in bucket of water sometimes until I can put them into a trash dumpster. 
Jack


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## SarahFair (Jan 10, 2016)

I just applied the first coat of the boil linseed oil and I'm so impressed! I can't wait to see it in the natural light! 

If I apply more coats will it continue to darken?


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## Artfuldodger (Jan 17, 2016)

After the linseed oil dries good, will you wax it?


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