# Bullet proof 22RE



## glynr329 (Oct 9, 2016)

2 Weeks before deer season and once again the 22RE is smoking like crazy. I am glad that other people have had great luck with these motors. I have replaced the motor 4 times was averaging less than 100,000. Put a re built motor in about a year and half ago lasted about 6 months. Took it out sent it back now about a year latter. Not sure why it never ran hot. Never low in oil just started smoking. From what I can tell it is from water/ antifreeze.


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## GoldDot40 (Oct 9, 2016)

glynr329 said:


> 2 Weeks before deer season and once again the 22RE is smoking like crazy. I am glad that other people have had great luck with these motors. I have replaced the motor 4 times was averaging less than 100,000. Put a re built motor in about a year and half ago lasted about 6 months. Took it out sent it back now about a year latter. Not sure why it never ran hot. Never low in oil just started smoking. From what I can tell it is from water/ antifreeze.


The rebuild have a warranty? Most engine builders (around her anyway) offer 12 month/12K miles warranty. I'm sure a head gasket, cracked head, or poor machine work would be covered under such a warranty.

Are you using the same source for these engines?


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## Miguel Cervantes (Oct 9, 2016)

Have you been using the Toyota oil filters built specifically for the 22r engine with the anti-drainback valve in them?


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## GoldDot40 (Oct 9, 2016)

Miguel Cervantes said:


> Have you been using the Toyota oil filters built specifically for the 22r engine with the anti-drainback valve in them?



Oil filter won't make one smoke. Most all oil filters sold today have anti-drainback valves.


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## NE GA Pappy (Oct 9, 2016)

water/antifreeze is a head or head gasket issue.  Some of them have multi steel layer gasket and they don't seal well if you don't have real real smooth surfaces.  

I would pull all the plugs, and have someone turn the engine over.  You should see a mist or moisture coming out of the sparkplug hole on the cylinder that is leaking antifreeze. The plug will be clean and white too. You might even see a drop of coolant on it.


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## rjcruiser (Oct 9, 2016)

You've replaced the motor 4 times?  Less than 100k on each or on all of them?

Why do you still have the truck?  Sounds like it is cursed.  Once I've lost trust in a vehicle, it's hard to overlook anything. I'm a Toyota guy and have had several and have had a 20r and a 22r, but I'd sell it.


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## glynr329 (Oct 10, 2016)

The main reason I keep trying to fix it is because the truck has been a great truck except the motors. It will go anywhere and if I decide to go through the woods or across a gully I go. 




rjcruiser said:


> You've replaced the motor 4 times?  Less than 100k on each or on all of them?
> 
> Why do you still have the truck?  Sounds like it is cursed.  Once I've lost trust in a vehicle, it's hard to overlook anything. I'm a Toyota guy and have had several and have had a 20r and a 22r, but I'd sell it.


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## Miguel Cervantes (Oct 10, 2016)

GoldDot40 said:


> Oil filter won't make one smoke. Most all oil filters sold today have anti-drainback valves.



That is not true, and not all oil filters are created equally. 

Not enough oil in the engine, when or where it needs it will create head gasket problems which will eventually lead to what this gentleman is continually dealing with. 

He seems to be the common denominator here, so discovery questions over what his habits of maintenance are will be the only way to give him decent advise on here. 

So again I ask?


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## GoldDot40 (Oct 10, 2016)

I'll bet you $10000000 that an oil filter is completely irrelevant to his issue. You talking about a device that holds about .25 qts (or less with a Toyota application) of oil. There's no mechanical way for the oil filter to be the issue. I agree that not all oil filters are equal, but when an aftermarket company wants to make one to be compatible with Toyota's specifications....Toyota has to sign off on it after satisfying their requirements. BTW, Toyota doesn't make oil filters....they pay a company...which makes oil filters for a lot of other people too...to make them.

To further debunk your theory, would mean that anybody running something other than a Toyota brand filter on a 22R would be having the same issues with their's. Simply not the case.


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## NE GA Pappy (Oct 10, 2016)

Oil filter causing head issues?????  WHUT?  How?

it might cause the bottom end to fly apart, or the lifters to collapse, but a head issue?  Huh?


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## rjcruiser (Oct 10, 2016)

glynr329 said:


> The main reason I keep trying to fix it is because the truck has been a great truck except the motors. It will go anywhere and if I decide to go through the woods or across a gully I go.



I gotcha...so, are you getting 100k miles out of each engine? or only around 25k out of each engine?

The 22re that I had was in a '94 Pick up.  Bought it with around 125k on it....drove it 2-3 years and sold it with around 185k on it.  The only issue I ever had with it outside of changing oil was radiator and water pump being replaced.  I was driving to work on morning and all of the sudden the temp was sky high.  Got it off the road and found out leaky radiator.  Replaced the radiator and within the week, the water pump started dripping (didn't know it was a common thing for one being replaced to cause the other the die...so I had to tear things apart twice )  

The only other super common issue is the timing chain guides wearing out due to them being plastic.  I'm wondering if the place you're getting the rebuilds is not upgrading to the steal guides and you're having the same issue over and over again.

I'd check the chain guides and see if they've rubbed through.  If I had to get another rebuild, I'd get it from someone else....and I'd have it built with steal guides before I had it installed.

Lastly, after checking the steal guides and making sure that wasn't the issue, I'd use some ceramic head gasket fixer stuff.  Where you have to drain all the coolant, fill with water, run with the ceramic additive, then drain water, let sit open for 24 hours, then refill with coolant.  Might save you a ton of work.  I drove a car like this for a couple of years after fixing a slight head gasket leak.

Outside of that, you didn't flush the coolant system or anything did you?  Some of those flush kits can eat away at the head gasket.  Also, a lot of Toyota guys swear by using the factory toyota gaskets when rebuilding.  I'm wondering if the aftermarket head gasket kit your rebuilder is most likely using is worthless and causing a lot of your issues.


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## glynr329 (Oct 10, 2016)

Never flushed the engine but did put the thicker radiator on to make sure it kept enough water. Trust me after everything that I have went through with these motors I am looking at the oil pressure and temp all the time. This time never ran hot not even close. 

I honestly didn't know that about the oil filters but will learn as much as possible.

The people that built the motor seem to be the problem.  Been building engines since 1946 and can't get mine right. 

Thanks everyone!


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## rjcruiser (Oct 10, 2016)

glynr329 said:


> Never flushed the engine but did put the thicker radiator on to make sure it kept enough water. Trust me after everything that I have went through with these motors I am looking at the oil pressure and temp all the time. This time never ran hot not even close.
> 
> I honestly didn't know that about the oil filters but will learn as much as possible.
> 
> ...



I highly doubt it's your oil filter. I ran Fram filters on mine and everyone says they're the worst of all the bunch. Lol. 

I think the common denominator is the shop doing the rebuilds.


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## NE GA Pappy (Oct 10, 2016)

glynr329 said:


> Never flushed the engine but did put the thicker radiator on to make sure it kept enough water. Trust me after everything that I have went through with these motors I am looking at the oil pressure and temp all the time. This time never ran hot not even close.
> 
> I honestly didn't know that about the oil filters but will learn as much as possible.
> 
> ...




1946 technology won't fix a 2000 engine for very long.  Back then, a .020 clearance on a piston was good to go, now, it is .005 or less.  .020 is worn out.

Probably the finish on the head is not great. Back in the day, we could machine the head on a cutter and it was good to go.  Now days, they cut the head with a CBN wheel, and you can see you reflection on the head it is so smooth.  If you don't deal with this stuff, and know the tolerances involved, you would think a machined head would be good, when in reality it would be way out of spec on the finish.

Dover head does good work.  Pull it, and have them rework the head, or exchange the head.  Check the surface for ANY nicks or scratches before you put it on, and only use the BEST gaskets you can find.  

$100 says it fixes your ongoing engine problems.


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## Lukikus2 (Oct 14, 2016)

First of all no one can work a head. I've got lots of hours on these motors. Replace the heads with new ones or you are wasting time and money. I once also bought an aftermarket head gasket that didn't have all the portholes punched out. Cost me another head but got another gasket kit for free when I proved it. As said above, tight tolerances.


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## glynr329 (Oct 15, 2016)

I am going to buy a new motor and be done with it hopefully.


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## whitetaco02 (Oct 15, 2016)

Look in to LC Engineering.


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## glynr329 (Oct 16, 2016)

This is crazy twice over the weekend I started the truck and let it idle. Smoked like crazy I decided to take it to the guy who is going to change the motor. 25 miles away I was kinda worried about not making it. Here is the crazy part it did not smoke one time ran pretty good except when you stopped the motor would idle high and then low.


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## NE GA Pappy (Oct 16, 2016)

my dad's Nissan had a leak around the fuel preheater. The oring was allowing coolant to seep out, and a bad gasket allowed it to be sucked into the intake.  When that happened, the engine would stutter, sputter, and almost die. Sometimes it would die. It would race at idle, then almost die.  Nissan couldn't find what was causing the issue.  When we finally found it, it cost .45 cents for an oring, and 2.49 for a small gasket at the base of the map sensor. No more issues with it now


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## rjcruiser (Oct 16, 2016)

I'd seriously try some ceramic head gasket sealer.  Could save you big.


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## 660griz (Oct 17, 2016)

glynr329 said:


> This is crazy twice over the weekend I started the truck and let it idle. Smoked like crazy I decided to take it to the guy who is going to change the motor. 25 miles away I was kinda worried about not making it. Here is the crazy part it did not smoke one time ran pretty good except when you stopped the motor would idle high and then low.



Burning that coolant will take out your O2 sensor as well.
Been there done that. 
Took a week of vacation to change the head on my 22re. 
Head bolt broke...on the way out, level with the block. Broke 2 easy outs and 4 drill bits getting it out. Had to make a bottom end tap and install heli-coils. Had to have one guy heating the block with a torch, a gallon of break free and a square easy out finally worked. Good times.


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## Lukikus2 (Oct 17, 2016)

Starting to all sound like the catylic converter now


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## Lukikus2 (Oct 17, 2016)

If it is. A new motor will run the same.


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## glynr329 (Oct 18, 2016)

No catylic converter on the truck. Ordered new motor yesterday hope this one will last a few years. I am debating on putting the steel guides for the timing chain.


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## rjcruiser (Oct 18, 2016)

glynr329 said:


> No catylic converter on the truck. Ordered new motor yesterday hope this one will last a few years. I am debating on putting the steel guides for the timing chain.



If it is a new motor, I wouldn't.  Plastic guides are good for about 180k miles. But....if you have it out and want to, it's less than  $100 and shouldn't take too long with the motor out.


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## Lukikus2 (Oct 21, 2016)

Wish you luck. Any 22r motor thread I always give the same advice on rough running motors. Check the radiator cap first.


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## GoldDot40 (Oct 22, 2016)

glynr329 said:


> No catylic converter on the truck. Ordered new motor yesterday hope this one will last a few years. I am debating on putting the steel guides for the timing chain.



Where is the new motor coming from? With the good bit of research I've done on aftermarket crate engines, ATK has been getting a good bit of praise for their quality vs price ratio. A lot of shops I hear/read are having less warranty issues from ATK than Jasper (main competion) and others that have been big in the replacement engine industry.


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## glynr329 (Oct 22, 2016)

I ordered the motor from Engine man in Flowery Branch.


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## 95g atl (Jan 2, 2017)

glynr329 said:


> Here is the crazy part it did not smoke one time ran pretty good except when you stopped the motor would idle high and then low.



That may be a sign of AIR in the cooling system. 
You need to bleed the cooling system. It's common on the 22Re. Google it


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