# Help planning a FL keys trip UPDATE POST 38



## Semi-Pro (Nov 12, 2020)

Looking to go next year. 
Want to explore all the keys at least a little. I would like to do some swordfish and mahi mahi fishing. Some free diving for lobster. And maybe some kayak fishing and snorkeling. Plus all the sights too see as I've never been.


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## Semi-Pro (Nov 12, 2020)

I do not have a boat. I may have access to a skiff but not guaranteed


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## twoheartedale (Nov 12, 2020)

No boat?  Never been? Be prepared to shell out some cash is all I can tell you. I have a buddy who guides down there for dolphin and swordfish. I'm sure he would put you on a lobster or two, but it would cost you.


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## Railroader (Nov 12, 2020)

About 10 years back, some friends and I spent nine days in the keys kayak fishing.

We spent a few days in Bahia Honda state park, a couple nights in the dock house of some rich guy we met and drank brews with and talked fishing, a couple nights in the back of my old Land Cruiser, and one night in the back room of a bar and grill..

Caught about 30 species of fish, and had one of the best trips ever with no plan, living like nomads..

Take a kayak and a couple buddies, and go...It don't have to cost much to have a blast, and see all there is to see.


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## Semi-Pro (Nov 12, 2020)

Swordfish is to much $2400.
Found a guy that will do 1/2 fish/ lobster for 1400. Last I looked the prices were down on lodging. Mainly looking for tips and ideas on what to skip and what to not pass up on. Taking the wife.


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## doomtrpr_z71 (Nov 12, 2020)

You driving? If so I would take the scenic route down tanami trail and fish the canals as well, it's not like it'll cost you anything. I've never done any guided trips, so I'm no help there. Since your wife is going I would check the pricing on bakers cay, it's a hilton resort and I stayed there last year and we got a smoking deal. I've stayed in key largo, key west and islamorada, I prefer islamorada if you aren't staying at a chain. Rainbow bend resort includes a skiff if you stay there. I highly recommend taking the yankee freedom to the dry Tortuga's while you're down.


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## Semi-Pro (Nov 12, 2020)

doomtrpr_z71 said:


> You driving? If so I would take the scenic route down tanami trail and fish the canals as well, it's not like it'll cost you anything. I've never done any guided trips, so I'm no help there. Since your wife is going I would check the pricing on bakers cay, it's a hilton resort and I stayed there last year and we got a smoking deal. I've stayed in key largo, key west and islamorada, I prefer islamorada if you aren't staying at a chain. Rainbow bend resort includes a skiff if you stay there. I highly recommend taking the yankee freedom to the dry Tortuga's while you're down.


Yes, we are driving. I was also thinking of dry Tortuga's as well.  I will look into the other stuff. Thank you


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## bluemarlin (Nov 12, 2020)

If fishing is your goal don't waste your time anywhere along the 140 miles of Keys other than Islamorada. 
I lived in Islamorada for 20 years fishing for a living out of Bud n Mary's. 
If you're planning on being there during lobster season, you could rent a small boat fairly cheap and drag someone behind the boat wearing a mask/snorkel to find lobsters on the reef. I can't tell you how many times I got them jumping off the rock at slack tide under the bridges... There's a lot better deals than $2400 for swordfish that I could turn you onto w top shelf captains too.


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## Semi-Pro (Nov 12, 2020)

I'm going to work up a budget, I may make some reservations since they are free cancellations.


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## oops1 (Nov 12, 2020)

Keep us posted. Interested in this too


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## doomtrpr_z71 (Nov 12, 2020)

Semi-Pro said:


> Yes, we are driving. I was also thinking of dry Tortuga's as well.  I will look into the other stuff. Thank you


I have stayed at the Everglades rod and gun club, it's a little out of the way off tanami trail but it was worth it to me for the history, I have pictures I can post if your interested. It would be worth fishing that area even if all you had was a kayak.


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## Dr. Strangelove (Nov 12, 2020)

If you make it to Key West, "The Garden Of Eden" bar is a must-see. It has a great roof-top view of Duval Street. Last week of October is usually the best week for Key West.


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## Semi-Pro (Nov 13, 2020)

doomtrpr_z71 said:


> I have stayed at the Everglades rod and gun club, it's a little out of the way off tanami trail but it was worth it to me for the history, I have pictures I can post if your interested. It would be worth fishing that area even if all you had was a kayak.


I would love to see some pics


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## Semi-Pro (Nov 13, 2020)

Dr. Strangelove said:


> If you make it to Key West, "The Garden Of Eden" bar is a must-see. It has a great roof-top view of Duval Street. Last week of October is usually the best week for Key West.


I do plan on trying to do something from largo all the way to key west .


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## Semi-Pro (Nov 13, 2020)

bluemarlin said:


> If fishing is your goal don't waste your time anywhere along the 140 miles of Keys other than Islamorada.
> I lived in Islamorada for 20 years fishing for a living out of Bud n Mary's.
> If you're planning on being there during lobster season, you could rent a small boat fairly cheap and drag someone behind the boat wearing a mask/snorkel to find lobsters on the reef. I can't tell you how many times I got them jumping off the rock at slack tide under the bridges... There's a lot better deals than $2400 for swordfish that I could turn you onto w top shelf captains too.


I will look into this, I will get back with you on the captains.


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## Limitless (Nov 13, 2020)

Islamorada and Cudjoe would be my "base camps" and explore the other keys from them.  Islamorada is in the 80s mile markers  and Cudjoe in the 20s.  In Cudjoe at Venture Out you rent a manufactured home short term for a reasonable price and kayak easily to the back side for great inshore fishing.  You would need a boat to get to the Contents and a rental would be well worth it - good fishing and lobstering.  In Islamorada look at one of the Bay side small places to stay, my favorite is Kon-Tiki, and from there you can kayak to some great flats and channels for Trout, Reds, Snook, Bonefish and Tarpon shots.  
Be advised, most rentals of private residences in the Keys are minimum 1 month, but places like Venture Out and small "cabin motels" like Kon-Tiki you can rent short term.


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## crackerdave (Nov 13, 2020)

I highly recommend Rainbow Bend Resort.


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## fairweather (Nov 13, 2020)

Nobody has mentioned John Pennekamp State Park yet.

https://www.floridastateparks.org/parks-and-trails/john-pennekamp-coral-reef-state-park

The park facilities are fine, but if you are a diver or snorkler, the underwater environment is absolutely stunning. You really shouldn't miss this,


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## doomtrpr_z71 (Nov 13, 2020)

The Dry Tortugas

Sea plane rides are a little more than the ferry but quicker, they dont give you as much time to look around though.


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## doomtrpr_z71 (Nov 13, 2020)

More of the tortugas, as was said above I would go to Pennecamp as well


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## doomtrpr_z71 (Nov 13, 2020)

Everglades rod and Gun/Tamiami Trail


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## doomtrpr_z71 (Nov 13, 2020)

If you have a flyrod, take it, the Tamiami trail has plenty of places to catch these Cichlids and more are abundant.


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## doomtrpr_z71 (Nov 13, 2020)

I hope you enjoy the pics, I've always went to the keys on the cheap and with my wife so the fishing hasn't been at the forefront of the trips, I pulled my boat down in 16 to try and fish during the windiest winter/spring ever or so I was told at bud and mary's. I left it in the boat basin the majority of that trip and I regret not taking it slow and easing into the backcountry to get out of the wind. I wanted to bridge fish when I was down earlier this year but I'm 99% sure I had covid and it was a work trip so I was limited on playtime.


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## Semi-Pro (Nov 14, 2020)

Thanks for the replies and photos. I'm getting a list together already


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## billy336 (Nov 15, 2020)

Islamorada is your best bet. Marathon is a bit rough around the edges, key west is a tourist trap, Key Largo gets pounded by Cubans outta Miami with hand lines keeping hand sized snapper. June is the month to go. John Gargan at whale harbor marina is a 35 yr guide there 3053932714.


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## bluemarlin (Nov 16, 2020)

fairweather said:


> Nobody has mentioned John Pennekamp State Park yet.
> 
> https://www.floridastateparks.org/parks-and-trails/john-pennekamp-coral-reef-state-park
> 
> The park facilities are fine, but if you are a diver or snorkler, the underwater environment is absolutely stunning. You really shouldn't miss this,



Meh.. Key Largo... Pretty much caters to divers and snorkelers.

One thing everyone should realize about the Florida Keys is there is excellent fishing from pulling your truck off US 1.. You can catch Tarpon and bonefish all up and down the Keys. Couple spots I recommend is Harry Harris or Lower Matecumbe for bonefish. Buy some frozen shrimp, pinch the heads off and throw half the bag as far as you can around where you wade in and use 1 for bait. Tarpon can be hooked at all the bridges around Islamorada on a outgoing tide. Go to a marina and ask a charter boat for some of the fish carcasses after they clean them in the afternoons. Cut the belly meat off and use for bait and chum with the rest. It's up to you to catch the tarpon from land but you'll get bites from them, and several species of sharks.


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## bluemarlin (Nov 16, 2020)

billy336 said:


> Islamorada is your best bet. Marathon is a bit rough around the edges, key west is a tourist trap, Key Largo gets pounded by Cubans outta Miami with hand lines keeping hand sized snapper. June is the month to go. John Gargan at whale harbor marina is a 35 yr guide there 3053932714.



John Gargan is close to the last captain I'd recommend. Being there 35 years has taught him one thing... He's a master of the boat ride and his single screw sled should be added to the reef.

Basically just stay away from Whale Harbor.. There's a few guys there like Benny Spaulding on the Play Baby or maybe Kay K but if you're serious about catching fish w some of the best crews then pick a boat at Bud n Mary's. Don't believe me spend some time down there and go to Post Card Marina, Whale Harbor, and Bud n Mary's and you'll quickly grasp the difference.


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## Robust Redhorse (Nov 27, 2020)

Good advise all around...



I've fished there when I was pretty well off, and I've been there when I was broke.



If you want a cheap motel - The Blue Fin Inn (or Key Lantern in Islamorada).  

For about $40 more/night with a dock - Breezy Palm

If you are willing to camp - Bahia Honda State Park in Big Pine Key




If you go in early June - Tarpon and Bonefish all around - that's what I would do.


If you take boat - get a motel with a dock


If not and you want to rent a boat - 

1) Bud & Mary's  (heck, I've paid for their old Dolphin skiff)
2) Robbie's - they used to rent boats anyway - every year, they become even more of a tourist trap
3) Seabird Marina - Long Key  (they have a little lodging for rent)


I would stay between somewhere between Islamorada and Big Pine - you can day trip to see everything else.


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## Rich M (Nov 30, 2020)

Last week of April, first 2 weeks of May for poons. Wind will be a 50/50 bet. 

Mangroves wl be against pilings on bridges or in the sand spots on outside of channels.  The ladies like catching them and you can use a sabiki to catch ballyhoo while they catch snapper if you chum. 

Yellowtail are in 100 ft. 

Live bait for ajs off humps. 

Speed jigs for blackfin. 

Mahi are hit and miss. 

Bonefish are always in the back country. 

Only seen 2 permit in my life.  Can't help there. 

Cudas are easy and will hit lures, blue runners, and dead bait on bottom.  Cudas are good bait for sharks.


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## Robust Redhorse (Nov 30, 2020)

The weather "usually" settles down in June, so you don't have to contend with too much wind. 


Nevertheless, if it's windy from NE to SW - fish the backcountry.  Find a flat that is leeward from the wind and fish for the flats for bonefish.   Or fish for tarpon - live bait or the cut bait fish bellies in the back country channels  (you will probably get many sharks for every tarpon hookup)

If the wind is from the N to West - fish oceanside.



If you are a fly-fisherman, this is very important.

If you fish bait, it's not as important.



Assuming you can get a boat and you fish bait:

For tarpon - pinfish or live crab 6' on 100 lb. mono leader under a float.
For bonefish - try to sight fish and cast a shrimp on a jighead well ahead of cruising fish.


If you have to wade or fish from a bridge, I would not bother with tarpon - a big one will spool you in 60 seconds unless you are fishing with giant shark tackle and 80-130 line.


Wading oceanside and blind casting can get you bonefish.  

You want to avoid wading bayside, or you will sink up in muddy flats - I still have a pair of wading shoes down there somewhere!


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## Ihunt (Dec 2, 2020)

I caught my first tarpon this year. While I’ve only caught one, I much prefer spinner sharks over tarpon. Easier to catch and the aerial display is better. I will say that tarpon made my arms tired and when he finally quit I was glad!


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## Robust Redhorse (Dec 2, 2020)

I hooked a big spinner shark while tarpon fishing under the bridge at Long Key with a pinfish 6' under a bobber.



It made the second giant leap before I noticed it was not a tarpon, then promptly bit through the #100 mono and was gone!


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## Robust Redhorse (Dec 2, 2020)

I have, literally, cranked on a #150 tarpon for 6 hours before I could grab the leader on a 30 pound outfit.



Then, I watched my son get a 50-pounder to the boat in less than 10 minutes on a fly rod.



You never know with tarpon!


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## Ihunt (Dec 3, 2020)

I’m also going to The Keys the last of March and first of April. We don’t care what we catch so it’ll be a blast. First time ever for me and I’m ready!


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## Semi-Pro (Dec 30, 2020)

Is there a second better time of year to go lobster diving? Maybe in the fall? Or do they all get caught early in the season?
Kids are in school on opening week and heard mini season was stupid packed.


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## twoheartedale (Jan 25, 2021)

Heading down Feb 13 for several days of swordfishing.  How did your trip go?


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## bullgator (Jan 25, 2021)

Just don’t wear anything with a rainbow on it!


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## Semi-Pro (Feb 4, 2021)

Ok update, we are going 3rd week in aug. Staying at the gulf view water front resort.
Buddy is bringing a 16 ft skiff. Would that be safe to take to any reefs or wrecks to get on some big fish?
Planning on going to theJesus statue
Lobster diving
Snorkeling, best reefs?
Fishing?
Bahia honda
Key west, day trip


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## TerrellBuckman (Feb 4, 2021)

We go every year have been for along time , don’t stay in islamorada like some have said unless your ready to pay top dollar for everything. It’s a tourist trap. Go ahead and stay down in big pine area and pay half price , going to the keys without a boat is like going hunting without a gun. I would not recommend .


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## DynamicDennis (Feb 5, 2021)

bluemarlin said:


> John Gargan is close to the last captain I'd recommend. Being there 35 years has taught him one thing... He's a master of the boat ride and his single screw sled should be added to the reef.
> 
> Basically just stay away from Whale Harbor.. There's a few guys there like Benny Spaulding on the Play Baby or maybe Kay K but if you're serious about catching fish w some of the best crews then pick a boat at Bud n Mary's. Don't believe me spend some time down there and go to Post Card Marina, Whale Harbor, and Bud n Mary's and you'll quickly grasp the difference.


Bud n marys is a tourist trap, you better come with a wad of cash or those stanciak clowns wont even look at you.  I wouldnt pay them a single dollar of my hard earned money, take your business somewhere else


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## bluemarlin (Feb 5, 2021)

DynamicDennis said:


> Bud n marys is a tourist trap, you better come with a wad of cash or those stanciak clowns wont even look at you.  I wouldnt pay them a single dollar of my hard earned money, take your business somewhere else



Meh... but I do find humor in your opinion.

Show me on this doll where BnM hurt you?


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## doomtrpr_z71 (Feb 5, 2021)

Semi-Pro said:


> Ok update, we are going 3rd week in aug. Staying at the gulf view water front resort.
> Buddy is bringing a 16 ft skiff. Would that be safe to take to any reefs or wrecks to get on some big fish?
> Planning on going to theJesus statue
> Lobster diving
> ...


I pulled my 17ft skiff down when we sent to islamorada, we went out to alligator light, going in August it should have some calm days when y'all can venture out to the patch reefs. I look and see if I have anything marked around marathon. I've been to pennecamp and never went snorkeling because the weather was so bad, eventually I'll make it to see the statute.


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## Semi-Pro (Feb 5, 2021)

doomtrpr_z71 said:


> I pulled my 17ft skiff down when we sent to islamorada, we went out to alligator light, going in August it should have some calm days when y'all can venture out to the patch reefs. I look and see if I have anything marked around marathon. I've been to pennecamp and never went snorkeling because the weather was so bad, eventually I'll make it to see the statute.


Thanks


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## TerrellBuckman (Feb 5, 2021)

bluemarlin said:


> Meh... but I do find humor in your opinion.
> 
> Show me on this doll where BnM hurt you?


Not sure what you mean by that but I feel the same as Dennis, what is a doll by the way ?  Bud n Mary’s is all about the money customer service is terrible as well


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## bluemarlin (Feb 5, 2021)

The internet is a funny place...Full of jealousy and opinions from people who have no idea based on hear say... But, lets have a discussion about BnM.

TerrellBuckman, who have you fished with out of that marina and when were you there?
Same question to Dennis.


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## TerrellBuckman (Feb 5, 2021)

bluemarlin said:


> The internet is a funny place...Full of jealousy and opinions from people who have no idea based on hear say... But, lets have a discussion about BnM.
> 
> TerrellBuckman, who have you fished with out of that marina and when were you there?
> Same question to Dennis.


I’ve been going down there for years I have no idea why jealousy would have anything to do with an opinion ? I’ve fished with them and have seen first hand how they treat customers , have you?? And before we start would you mind answering my question as to what is a doll?


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## Semi-Pro (Feb 5, 2021)

Ok girls


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## bluemarlin (Feb 5, 2021)

Google doll test. 

I'm asking you to tell me who you have fished with?

Keep in mind you're talking to someone who lived and fished down there for well over 20 years. I worked out of Holiday Isle, Post Card Inn, Whale Harbor, the Strike Fighter when it was docked behind Lorelei when it went over to  Harbor Island in the Bahamas and won a BBC tournament w a 653 pound blue marlin, Bud n Mary's, and private boats out of Ocean Reef... add in Key Largo and Key West a few times if you want but give me examples of who you fished w and what happened... Show me on the doll where BnM hurt you?


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## TerrellBuckman (Feb 5, 2021)

bluemarlin said:


> Google doll test.
> 
> I'm asking you to tell me who you have fished with?
> 
> Keep in mind you're talking to someone who lived and fished down there for well over 20 years. I worked out of Holiday Isle, Post Card Inn, Whale Harbor, the Strike Fighter when it was docked behind Lorelei when it went over to  Harbor Island in the Bahamas and won a BBC tournament w a 653 pound blue marlin, Bud n Mary's, and private boats out of Ocean Reef... add in Key Largo and Key West a few times if you want but give me examples of who you fished w and what happened... Show me on the doll where BnM hurt you?


I could really care less about where you’ve lived and fished out of, or what fish you’ve caught , we’ve all caught them, keep in mind this is an opinion about bud n Mary’s not you or your fishing trophies.  As I said earlier bnmarys in my opinion is all about the money and they could care less about the average Joe .  Sounds like somebody needs a hug ?


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## bluemarlin (Feb 5, 2021)

Not about me brother. I have no dog in the fight. 
It appears to me that you're the difficult one to get along with. That's what I'm dealing with here... There are personalities that don't click in this world. You seem to have a bad opinion of Bud N Mary's. I was simply asking who you fished with.

But I will tell you that if you were to grab a Islamorada phone book and randomly call a local out of the book and ask the question of what is the best marina in Islamorada, their response would be Bud n Mary's.

Sorry you feel that way but I guess that's why they make chocolate and vanilla.
My only reason to post is to try and help people not go for a boat ride. It is expensive to charter a sportfish boat and there are a lot of all talk no catch (compared to other boats) charters available down there.


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## doomtrpr_z71 (Feb 6, 2021)

Semi-Pro said:


> Ok girls


I only have one point near marathon, pm me if you want it and some around islamorada.


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## redneck_billcollector (Mar 10, 2021)

I love fishing out of Islamorada, normally stay at La Jolla and fish the Bay and Everglades from there.  I would point out, if you cross the ICW, you will want an Everglades boater sticker, it is an online test, but you have to have it to operate a boat in the Everglades, I believe you can still take the test for free.  Summer time you can find "baby" tarpon pretty much anywhere, you just have to look for them rolling, I have found the most in the nastiest water I can find.....I guess they go there to get away from the sharks, there is little oxygen in the water.  Snook are against the mangrove islands, in the early morning redfish can be seen working the flats, and once you can see good keep your eyes open, I have found huge schools of small bonefish in the Park...by accident the first time, never looked for them, so never really saw them.  If you see any number of bonnet head sharks, bonefish will often be close by.  Get out at first light, beat the heat, so to speak, and you should have no problem.  As for the canals, yeah, with a fly rod, you are hard pressed to keep the Mayan Cichlids and Oscars off the flies, you want a 100% chance of catching those fish, just cast to a laid up snook and they will beat the snook to your fly, I promise. Oh yeah, some of the deeper flats as you are leaving the park back towards Islamorada will have some large permit on them, you just have to pay attention and look, I have never seen them tailing there though and have never been able to get one to take a fly....


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## redneck_billcollector (Mar 10, 2021)

I see there is a debate with regards to Bud & Mary's or Whale Harbor....being a fly fisherman, I am prejudiced towards Lorelei which is where all the best inshore guides work out of.....you have to hire them from their site though, not through a marina. Some great guides operate out of Founder's Park too, my personal favorite one does.  Pete Rowney....but then again, like I pointed out, I only take fly rods with me to the Keys unless we are going off shore. I love fishing August down there, not much wind but it will be Africa hot and humid, just be prepared for that, dress accordingly, and wear appropriate flats clothing, long sleeve shirts and pants on the water or else you will be hurting regardless of how much sun screen you use, and of course if fly fishing you can not let any get on your line or its ruined hence the fly fishermen down there have the neatest clothes. As for Marathon, can not help you much there, I have fished there years ago (about 30 or so years ago), and learned that I have better luck and less crowds, especially during any of the lobster seasons, up in Islamorada. Islamorada gets the higher rate of fishermen to tourist over pretty much everywhere down there, for a reason.


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## twoheartedale (Mar 10, 2021)

I'll be headed back first week in April then again in june. We caught 1 bonita. My buddy know a bunch of charter guys and it was slow for them. We swordfish one day and kite fished the next.


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## Semi-Pro (Mar 10, 2021)

I've been doing my research. Plans have changed since op. Lobster, mangrove snapper, yellowtails, tarpon,  plus whatever we can catch on the reefs. Since my buddy bringing his skiff we gonna save the blue water stuff for next time. Also debating on buying a speargun


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