# Cracked stock



## duckbill (Jan 9, 2007)

Need some help here.  I stripped the finish off of my old '59 BSA Royal Featherweight 30-06.  This uncovered a pretty bad crack.  I was wondering if I can repair it or should this stock be "for display only".  The pics show where the crack runs from the top and bottom of the tang area and runs to the back of the magazine well.  It's a pretty bad crack, structurally speaking, because I can pull it open with my hands.  It concerns me because it's a really thin stock and this is a heavy recoiling rifle.  I ran a bead of Gorilla Glue along the action portion of the crack.  After it set I used adremel to clean of the excess.  It feels a little stronger, but I seriously doubt it will hold up to recoil.


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## CAL (Jan 9, 2007)

I have fixed several cracks in stocks with the waterproof yellow glue.I always find a way to clamp the crack when glueing.Seems to make it hold better.Good luck with your repair.


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## QuakerBoy (Jan 9, 2007)

I fixed a buddy's stock that cracked in half with gorilla glue...you did wet the wood?  and clamp it?  if so...it should be fine


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## weagle (Jan 9, 2007)

Use a wedge to spread it apart, squirt super glue all in it or use accragalss if your not fast   pull the wedge and wrap it with surgical tube.  It will be it will be stronger than original.

If it splits all the way when you wedge it apart, no big deal, just apply the glue and proceed as above.  When you sand the seam it should dissapear. 

Gorilla glue is made to expand as it cures and will leave a seam that shows.

Weagle


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## pcsolutions1 (Jan 10, 2007)

Seems like just plain old woodworking glue would work fine along with the wedge it open to get the glue down in there and wrap or clamp it while it dries.

Tom


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## duckbill (Jan 10, 2007)

Thanks guys.

I guess I was mainly concerned with the strength of a repair.  Sounds like you guys are pretty confident that an adhesive should be fine.  I appreciate the help.


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## Handgunner (Jan 10, 2007)

I've got a stress fracture in a pellet pistol of mine caused by cocking the barrel, these tips should help.

Thanks y'all!


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## Twenty five ought six (Jan 10, 2007)

If you can get to a woodworking store, or model shop, look for a glue named "hot suff".  This is a very thin form of super glue designed to repair cracks.  It will flow into the crack, and you just need to apply light pressure to close the crack.  It will make an almost invisible repair, and will hold from now on.

You might consider removing the stock and seeing if there is a pressure point that needs relieving.


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## duckbill (Jan 10, 2007)

Twenty five ought six said:


> You might consider removing the stock and seeing if there is a pressure point that needs relieving.



I'm going to bed the entire action hoping to fix whatever is causing the problem.   It's a neat looking little stock, but not much "meat" on it to work with.


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## QuakerBoy (Jan 10, 2007)

weagle.....if you clamp the stock well, the gorilla glue will estill expand...but will just come out where it can be sanded out...it may leave a very small seam...but not very noticeable....IMO...for wood...it is the best glue available.  I use it for all sorts of woodworking projects


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## AlabamaExile (Jan 10, 2007)

Bill:

First off, congrats on the win Monday night . . . I was pulling hard for the Gators.

Second, I saved a link to this site awhile back, you might want to check it out if the crack is really bad:

Threaded Brass Rod Stock Repair

I have never tried this, but it looks promising.

AE


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## CAL (Jan 10, 2007)

I have seen that kind of repair Alabama and it was as you say quite promising. It really worked good and held also.It increased the strength of the stock.


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## duckbill (Jan 11, 2007)

AE,
Thanks for the link.  That's a pretty slick idea.  If you really wanted to, I bet you could sink the rod into the stock about 1/8" - 3/16".  You could use a countersink or large bit to open the hole up.  Then you could fill the hole with wood filler and hide the brass end.


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## QuakerBoy (Jan 11, 2007)

duckbill said:


> AE,
> Thanks for the link.  That's a pretty slick idea.  If you really wanted to, I bet you could sink the rod into the stock about 1/8" - 3/16".  You could use a countersink or large bit to open the hole up.  Then you could fill the hole with wood filler and hide the brass end.



I kinda like the brass look myself.....but that is definitely an option...but a hole that big would still be noticable....


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## edge (Jan 11, 2007)

*cracked stock*

I've repaired a few of those myself. Two things I would try : 1st-drill you a few SMALL holes into the crack, more in the action area than on the tang/grip area. Fill these with
acraglass mixed with the walnut colored powder....
After curing, sand to match surface, and refinish. Yes, you will be able to see the repair, but you should be able to blend it in pretty well.
2nd-glass bed the whole action area after you do this...

The acraglass is much stronger than the stock material, and will hold better than glue, in my experience. I'm sure that there are lots of good glues that I haven't tried, I'm just a believer in what has worked for alot of people for a long time.....if you have questions, pm me and I'll give you more detail.....

edge


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## 257 roberts (Jan 12, 2007)

Give Mr. Cole a call


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## CK'n (Jan 13, 2007)

*glues*

wood glue (yellow or white) doesn't work so well when the wood has oil in it. Gorilla glue so far seems to work. 

Wetting Gorilla glue down before you apply that sticky stuff makes it foam more. Great if you have gaps to fill. Don't pre-wet if there is no gap filling. There is enough in the air and in the wood to make it do it's thing. Takes a tad bit longer....but not so much expantion and you can often have a seam almost invisible. I use the surgical tubing for a clamp....wonder stuff!

Putty epoxies and some super glues also have a problem with oil in the wood...please be aware. With Super glue, you can always go back and try it again...sometimes it will work with the gel type. Clamp it securily! 

If you can get the white or yellow glue in, (can be thinned with a tiny amount of water) it will be stronger then the wood. It dries and cures much faster then Gorilla glue. Besides, can never seem to get that Gorilla snot off my fingers and it smells bad.

The brass rod can be hidden a little by applying a small amount of cold bluing soltion to the end. It will go black - easier to hide. I prefer steel, and use up to a 1/2 when repairing a broken wrist. Sheet rock screws, which are a very hard steel alloy, seem to work just as well and tend to be everyone's shop. Easy to break one to a shorter length if needed. Don't worry, haven't had one break in a stock yet.

Good luck,
Chris


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## ramsey (Jan 13, 2007)

Duckbill---looks like you got some good advice


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## duckbill (Jan 13, 2007)

ramsey said:


> Duckbill---looks like you got some good advice




Darn sure, did!   Now I know enough to really screw it up   

Not really  !  Lots of good advice, for sure.


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