# Stock work



## Todd_GA_CO_09 (Jan 15, 2007)

I have a boyd stock that was made for ruger 10/22 lr. What would i have to do to make it work for the 22  magnum?


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## taylornelms (Jan 15, 2007)

I really have no idea but those stocks are made to be 99 percent bolt on. That means a little sanding and they fit perfect. You might be better off tryin to sell it and get another. I dont think teh action is the same, i certainly dont have the experience to say one way or anotehr but sounds pretty tuff.


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## CK'n (Jan 15, 2007)

*might take a little wittling*

I rarely use semi-inletted stocks, Boyd's or anyone else's, so I do not know how tight it is. I also am not sure what the dimensions are for the two receivers and their barrels. If they are the same, and I would not be too surprised, then the question is moot. At best, the 22 mag maybe a little bigger, so a little wood would have to removed. The other way around...I have never been able to add wood, no matter how much chiseling, sawing, filing, or cussing I did. (ya, just what you need, another smart alec)

Pull the two rifles out of their stocks and see how much difference there is between them.  If you can take some pictures, maybe something can be figures out from them. Otherwise, if you want some adventure, stop by the shop. I am not too busy this week. I can look over your shoulder if you want to try to fit everything up yourself.

Best of luck,
Chris


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## Todd_GA_CO_09 (Jan 15, 2007)

thank you sir, I just mite take you up on that. Do you make a thumbwhole stock for a 22 magnum?


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## CK'n (Jan 16, 2007)

*I can*

if you have one I can copy. I usually make a bit more conventional versions.

If you want to wait a little bit. I am developing a colored laminate. The colors you pick or send me a swatch you want matched. I am having problems at the moment getting the wood to absorb dye at the same rate. Each layer maybe a slightly differant tint even though I used the same dye. Trying to make Alabama colors at the moment - red, black, and grey. They are for a client - not for me!!!!!!! 

I'll try to post some pictures when it dries tommorrow. 

If I can get my duplicator to behave, then I can make a cost effective stock based on your favorite colors and you won't need a 2nd morgage! The layers are about 1/8" thick and for the moment are made of popular and pine. They sure do absorb dye differantly...wonder what Pandora's box I have opened. It could be fun, or a frustrating disaster. Time will tell in the next few days!

Stay tuned,
Chris


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## mike bell (Jan 17, 2007)

Chris,

I have a several stock projects on my back burners...

The main one I need to move on is a Birdseyes Maple stock Im making for my dad.

Ive never worked on Birdseye maple,  what kind of finishing process do you reccomend?

I want to maximize the birds eyes yet bring out more of the wood.... does that make since?


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## CK'n (Jan 18, 2007)

*bird's eye*

gorgeous stuff and treacherous! Make sure you keep your chisels sharp. Some tear out is guaranteed. I did a lot of scraping to avoid that when I was close to stopping. 

Finishing that stuff is an art. I have taken Master classes from people like Terry Musashi that where a week long and have only scratched the surfaces. I am moving away from using reagents and then scorching. Presently I am experimenting with 3 separate tinting (weak stains) applications worked in between grain filling. I will try to take a picture of a maple ML stock I am just about done with. If the colors will come out in a pic, I'll post them. That ML stock blows away this bird's eye maple! The ML stock is tiger tail, but the method will be the same for bird's eye












What a lot of people are not aware of is the shading involved. A lot of what you "see" you are not aware of. With Maple I add a base tint of yellow - often a maple, or honey brown, or golden brown. Then sand it out until it just disappears. It hasn't. Then according to experience, either a coat of oil finish sanded down to wood to start grain filling...remember - a little is still left behind in the wood, or skip it if the grain is firm and really soft. Remember the softer grain that now has most of the first tint in it will protect it from the next color. The left behind oil in the softer grain has somewhat saturated it. That oil with the first color will slow down absorption of the next color. That would be something with red in it like red mahogany. Sand that until it pretty much disappears. (taken care of medium hard grain) I mean pretty much disappears, I leave a little behind because that will be removed with the 3rd color, a dark chocolate brown. That is sanded until it also disappears for the most part. I am looking for a good display of all three colors. It is suttle, I have made umpteen practices pieces until I got it right a few times. I still screw it up from time to time, but using nothing less then 400c sand paper, I can go deep enough to redo my boo-boo and hopefully not screw up the shape of the stock. Now starts the grain filling. Have to be careful you don't go down too far sanding and mess up all that coloring. You will end up with light steaks where you did go too far. The streaks show up early, so you can go back and correct your mistake. It is very forgiving...thank God!

Well, if your eyes haven't glazed over after all this. I'll try to post ML stock tomorrow. The stock pics above do not have all the coloring I described. It is magnesium permanganate and then scorched with about 30 coats of hand rubbed oil....which I KNOW you will do to yours...RIGHT? !

I can explain the grain filling and leveling before the finish is finished if you are not sure about them. (say that 3 times fast)

The tints I mentioned above are all very light. Just like Sophia Loren and others like her, they had an incredible depth of beauty. They certainly used make-up, they just did it in a way you couldn't tell it.

There are a few other pics of that stock on my photobucket area, have a look:http://s96.photobucket.com/albums/l185/CKn-01/?start=all

Best of luck,
Chris


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## CK'n (Jan 18, 2007)

*tinting vs permanginate/scorching*

The flash does not work on the camera, so it might be a little blurry. I only cropped these pictures so hopefully the correct colors will come through...depends a bit on your monitor of course.

Hard to get rid of the glare, this is the ML I was referring to and the bird's eye stock in the same pictures. Tried moving around to eliminate some glare...











these are some close ups of the ML stock (tinted with the 3 colors)










As a quick example of the process, this is a stock I am in the process of "primping" for a dealer. It is a 2 piece of different woods. I only have pictures of the the first color, the 2nd (& last) color I forgot to take pictures. It was dark chocolate brown. The coloring here was a quick job. The stock was not worth putting a lot of work into so I didn't (I am a for profit company even if the bank account says otherwise) The dealer wanted it to be more sell-able, so this is what I am doing.

The cleaned up and sanded wood (naked?)





then the first tinting, a golden honey. With the color of the wood showing through, it had a rather frightening green accent that doesn't show up.





then it was sanded. Note the grain is not as distinctive here even though the color seems to have pretty much gone away.








Then a few coats of finish and I am trying to resurrect some of the checkering.





as more coats of finish are added, the grain will show more and more. The two pieces of wood will never match, such is life and I think it would be an offense to go any further with trying to get the colors to match. The are not the same species of wood.


All this complicated sounding tinting/coloring/toning actually takes about 3 hours at most from start to finish to complete. The longest time is waiting for the alcohol to evaporate before sanding.

If you want to, stop by with your blank, I'll look over your shoulder as you do the work. It is hard to mess up.

Sheewwweeee, class dismissed (anybody got a beer?)

Hope this helps,
Chris


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## Eric Lewis (Jan 18, 2007)

*STOCK*

that birdseye maple stock is gorgeous...I want to see the one that "Blows it Away"...since you made 'em both that should be one nice stock !

Have you done anything in tiger maple..?


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## CK'n (Jan 18, 2007)

*yes*

in the previous post the ML (long skinny stick looking thing) is a tiger tail maple. The difference between bird's eye and tiger tail is the way it is sawed. They are the same thing, just cut 90degres from each other. If you could look  at the top of the bird's eye stock, you will see the tiger stripes.

The one maple I would like to try is called scallop or shell maple. It is really odd looking and gotta be a real pain in the backside to work on....but man, what a stock.

The 2 stocks shown below will be at the Wood show I posted about. Please come down for a visit and see the spectacle. There are a lot of show special prices that really are cheap. I wait for it to restock my consumables...and get a few toys that I really don't need. Keep telling the wife it is better then me spending my money on wild women and booze... still pats me on my bald pointy head and says "yes dear".

Take care,
Chris


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## mike bell (Jan 19, 2007)

nice looking work Chris.


I may drop my stock off and have you to finish it


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## Todd_GA_CO_09 (Jan 23, 2007)

Very nice work!! I'd like to see the thumbhole stocks you were talking about. this is a color that i like, I hear it's a real common color, I just like it.


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## Todd_GA_CO_09 (Jan 23, 2007)

this is the other, pretty close i think.


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## North-Woods (Jan 24, 2007)

*Marlin 36 in need of stock work*

Chris,
do you do all types of stock work?  I have a Marlin 36 that needs a new butt and both the forearm and butt fitted.


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## CK'n (Jan 24, 2007)

*Most stock work*

I do. I'll send you a PM....

Take care,
Chris


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## North-Woods (Jan 24, 2007)

*Marlin 36 needs help*

Thanks Chris, I will try to find you at the show as well


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## Todd_GA_CO_09 (Jan 24, 2007)

CK, no pics??


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## CK'n (Jan 24, 2007)

*uhhhhhh*

pics?  (reaching around to make sure pants are not around ankles in a public place)

you will have to refresh my memory. What pics was I suppose to send/post?

Look forward to seeing you North-woods. Hopefully I will not have stuck a chisel in my fingers too many times and can still shake your hand. (the other one is gonna hold up my pants until I get this pic thing straightened out!)

take care,
Chris


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## Todd_GA_CO_09 (Jan 25, 2007)

I'm sorry sir, I thought you were going to post some pics of some thumbhole stocks that you build.


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## CK'n (Jan 25, 2007)

*glad you*

posted the   in your sentence.....I wouldn't use one and I only supply them under duress (gotta pay the light bill you know)  I tend to be a purist when it comes to "nice wood stocks". Probably tick a few people off, rest assured it is not intentional, I do not like laminates either. They are plywood stocks. Now that no one will talk to me anymore ...

Seriously, I prefer the look and feel of the traditional styles. The thumb-hole version and laminates are popular for a good reason - people like them and that is the best reason to have one. Some people prefer pine trees in their yard. I am trying to get rid of them and plant hard woods. It is what makes this world so fascinating. Now those that like whips and chains.... me with a thumb-hole that is mine...... 

oy vay,
Chris


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## Larry Rooks (Jan 25, 2007)

CK'n
Now I know who to send my stocks to for checkering etc.
Mighty fine work.  I do most anything else but checkering is something I have never done, got a few checkering tools
but nothing fancy, and have not done real well with my few
experiments either


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## CK'n (Jan 26, 2007)

*To be honest,*

I think every checkering set should come with a therapist. If you use it much, you will need them!

There are a few tricks like how to hold the tools straight and parallel to the surface right where you are working. That is the biggest trick. It seems to be left out of a lot of books. You also need a checkering tool that has an extra long (1"+) cutting edge. It will straighten out a lot of mistakes. I assume you have a checkering cradle? Light is the next most important thing. If you do not have it placed correctly, the shadows will play tricks on you, especially on curved surfaces. You also need a lot so you can see the difference in the cut you are making and a short piece of dark grain...easy to be fooled.

In a few weeks, I will have my website up: www.Riflerestorer.com where I will start adding articles on doing many projects the hobbyist gunsmith can do. Refinishing stocks, cold and slow bluing, rust removal, checkering + some wood working tips and tricks, even some elementary  ballistics. Be patient with me, I have to write it and get work out the shop's door. It will be showing up though.

Take care,
Chris


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## duckbill (Jan 27, 2007)

CK'n said:


> In a few weeks, I will have my website up: www.Riflerestorer.com where I will start adding articles on doing many projects the hobbyist gunsmith can do. Refinishing stocks, cold and slow bluing, rust removal, checkering + some wood working tips and tricks, even some elementary  ballistics. Be patient with me, I have to write it and get work out the shop's door. It will be showing up though.
> 
> Take care,
> Chris



No patience, here.  Let's go, Chris.  Your fans are waiting. 

Sounds great.  I'm anxious to see it when you get it up and running.


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## GAnaturalist (Jan 30, 2007)

As far as I know, and I have looked at them both, you can not carve out a 22lr. stock to accept a 22mag. There is just not enough wood. The 22mag reciever is a good bit longer.


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