# Bolt hard to open / close on round



## nockemstiff (Nov 12, 2013)

Remington Arms 270 WIN

I've cycled only Premium factory rounds like Federal and Hornady from 140g, 130g and most recently the 120g Hornady managed recoil rounds.

Noticed this issue since I owned the rifle. I do very little shooting at all.  Just in the process of cycling in a round to sit the deer stand and then ejecting it later, the process becomes harder and harder.  The bolt slides fine, just the opening and fully closing becomes tougher and tougher.

I can give it a cleaning - which with my level of experience really is nothing super, but it does help.  However, within cycling in just a few times it gets stiffer and stiffer. I've become determined to fix this issue.

I can see brass on the face of the bolt and down one side where the shell in the magazine must be rubbing as well.  Sorry I could not get the iPhone to zoom in clearly onto the face.  I have done some Internet research for what that's worth.  I have seen the Youtubes of disassembling the bolt.  I have read about headspacing and it sure seems like maybe there is not enough - and it might have even been a common issue on the 700's in this era.

Anyhow, what's your opinions on what to do here?  Anyone near Dooly County want to take a closer look at it?


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## ky55 (Nov 12, 2013)

The first and simplest thing to check is to make sure one of the scope base screws, the second back from the front, isn't too long. Sometimes they are long enough to go all the way through the receiver and contact the bolt, but when they do that it usually just locks up the bolt. 

There sure is a lot of brass on the bolt face. That doesn't look good.


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## rustybucket (Nov 12, 2013)

Can you use a pen light and inspect the chamber?  Sure seems like you have some type of headspacing issue going on, but I'm thinking something or some buildup in the chamber?

Are there any markings on your ejected shells?

Holding the gun vertical, barrel down, on a rag.  You can spray some good solvent into the chamber, let it sit, brush it out and repeat.


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## nockemstiff (Nov 12, 2013)

Here is the casing and spent primer from a round that was cycled a few times this season when going to the stand and then fired Friday AM.

Can definitely see the marking on the butt end.  If there is much going on at the transition from small to large diameter it's hard for me to say.


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## PopPop (Nov 12, 2013)

Saw this at the range one time, the guy had a cleaning patch stuck in the chamber.


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## nockemstiff (Nov 12, 2013)

Lol. I have looked but did not see anything obvious.  I will try a smaller light that I can get down in there better later this evening.

How would one get that brass off of the bolt face?  Disassemble it and brush the flat surface?


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## wareagle700 (Nov 12, 2013)

Take a nylon brush and some CLP and scrub the bolt face and under the extractor real good. Make sure to clean any gunk out from under the extractor claw also. It may be dirty and causing some resistance when you try and close the bolt.


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## nockemstiff (Nov 12, 2013)

Well, another hour and a half of getting everything in one place and another thorough cleaning.  Obviously, the chamber is larger diameter than the bore.  I used an unopened Hopps 9 solvent and a 40 cal brush in an attempt to dislodge anything built up at the neck.  I did not know exactly how to approach this, so please I am open to hearing the correct way.

I wrapped that brush with cloths for swabbing.  Finalized it with some Q-tips at the opening of the chamber that I could reach and where the bolt lugs go.  Picked up some gun grease and applied a very light coat to the bolt lugs.  Ran the bolt many times and it felt fine.  Cycle in a round and it is tight and brass is building again on the face end of the bolt.  I was very careful, inspected over and again with a flashlight and I just do not see anything obvious.

For real, the bolt face is not supposed to get like that?  I mean there should be some tiny bit of play in there right?

Next steps?

PS: Looks like it is an LW or 2002 model year for whatever it is worth.


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## jglenn (Nov 12, 2013)

is your ejector free... can you push in fairly easily?  does it pop right back out.

notice any marks on the bullets( not the case) when you cycle a single round in the rifle


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## bowyer (Nov 12, 2013)

Call Remington.


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## F.A.R.R. (Nov 12, 2013)

bowyer said:


> Call Remington.



See if they can recommend one of their Authorized smith's and call them to see what they say.

I agree with you the brass build up is excessive.  

I am not a gun smith so don't have the answer, but I can share some past experience.

Have you tryed a different brand of ammo ?

We reload  for most our my deer rifles. The only time I ever noticed anything like what you are talking about it after neck sizing fired brass on one of my guns with a tight chamber you can feel the bolt is harder to close.  The same cases full length sized will eliminate it.

Something is either up with the chamber its self or it's sizing of the brass on your shells.  On a factory gun , with factory rounds generally the chamber tolerances are not very tight and the shell sizing and bullet seating depth would be made to run through most chambers.

By the pictures and description  it would sound and seem as though the case shoulder it tight in the chamber making the case "long" and then your getting friction on the case neck and rim closing the bolt-I don't think any level of cleaning can help something like this.

There are differences in brass between manufactures.


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## bowyer (Nov 12, 2013)

After giving this some more thought, you may have some other options. Assuming the chamber is really clean and the ammo meets SAAMI specs, then there is a very good chance you have a headspace problem. This can be easily checked with Go or No-go gages. A competent gunsmith can check this out or you can order your on from Brownells or other supplier. Just to be safe, I would be very hesitant to shoot the rifle without doing this or contacting the manufacturer.


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## nockemstiff (Nov 12, 2013)

F.A.R.R. said:


> Have you tryed a different brand of ammo ?
> 
> We reload  for most our my deer rifles. The only time I ever noticed anything like what you are talking about it after neck sizing fired brass on one of my guns with a tight chamber you can feel the bolt is harder to close.  The same cases full length sized will eliminate it.
> 
> ...



OK, I read this and thought, well I do still have my old original Federal Premium 150g NP rounds I was shooting, some Hornady SST 130g rounds I picked up, and these Hornady Custom Lite SST 120g which I most recently starting shooting and really liking.

So while it seems in my mind I recall this bolt always being kind of stiff to work - and indeed it is and sure would like to do something to improve its performance - after cycling several of each round through just now - the problem of having to really work to open and close it seems to totally be coming from - you probably guessed it - the Hornady Custom Lites which I recently started using.

Dang.  I really liked shooting these.  Alright, so maybe a call to Hornady - or headspace issue still???


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## nockemstiff (Nov 12, 2013)

jglenn said:


> is your ejector free... can you push in fairly easily?  does it pop right back out.
> 
> notice any marks on the bullets( not the case) when you cycle a single round in the rifle



The ejector being? The pin that protrudes at the bolt face?

No marks on the bullet itself that I can tell other than where they have been sliding up and into the magazine.


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## TrailBlazinMan (Nov 13, 2013)

Is the bolt stiff throughout its entire operation, or does it get stiff when you try to push the handle down?

If its stiff during the entire cycle, I would look at the follower and feed lips. The rounds may be sitting too high in the mag and binding on the underside of the bolt. 

If it is stiff only at the end, check the extractor and ejector. The ejector is the pin protruding from the bolt face and should have some umph behind the spring, but move. The extractor is a small tab inside the bolt nose that grabs the shells. It should move freely as well.


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## rustybucket (Nov 13, 2013)

You're going to need more than hoppes to get the brass off.  Maybe some Sweet's or similar strong solvent.

But at this point I'd get the gun into a good smith that can check the headspace.  I wouldn't fire until it was checked.


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## nockemstiff (Nov 13, 2013)

TrailBlazinMan said:


> Is the bolt stiff throughout its entire operation, or does it get stiff when you try to push the handle down?



Only when making the final turn down or then opening the bolt.  Sliding the bolt is fine.  Interestingly it is these 120g rounds that seem to be the culprit.  I have dreams and visions of it being even less stiff with any round, sort of like I envision a sniping rifle to be - which requires safety appropriate effort, but not so much effort that it is inefficient and causes loss of aim to cycle rounds.  Of course, that's likely a pipe dream for another discussion.


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## nockemstiff (Nov 13, 2013)

rustybucket said:


> You're going to need more than hoppes to get the brass off.  Maybe some Sweet's or similar strong solvent.
> 
> But at this point I'd get the gun into a good smith that can check the headspace.  I wouldn't fire until it was checked.



I wouldn't know one solvent from another. I know I had a can of Break Free around some where but I think it is at the deer lease in case of emergency.  I did get concerned about solvent cutting the grease inside the bolt springs and all so I only tried to place just enough on the face.  I was able to get most of it.  I think I still would prefer a take down and proper cleaning of the face, but that is a project for some other time.

Hopefully I can find someone who knows a local smith.  Right now the most appropriate place seems to be on the East side of Tifton.

I need exposure to more bolt actions too.  I really have very little experience to compare this bolt action too.  Maybe I will see if some of the hunting buddies will let me cycle theirs over this weekend.

I mean, I know the big problem with the 120g rounds is a definite keep-them-out-of-the-gun issue.  I just would like to figure out whether the milder stiffness is to be expected or not.


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## nockemstiff (Nov 13, 2013)

One observation that I made - I filled a 3 oz eye drop bottle with the Hoppes so I could squirt it directly into the chamber area.  At one point I noticed solvent running down the bottom of the barrel from underneath the stock.  How in the world did it go from the chamber to underneath the stock? I just wiped it down and then turned the rifle upside down for a few minutes to allow as much as would come on out.  I left the rifle sitting out overnight thinking it would air dry it.


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## wareagle700 (Nov 13, 2013)

Probably came down the front action screw hole.

Leaving solvent in a barrel for that long is a bad idea. I would take the rifle out of the stock and be sure to clean all the solvent out. Go back over it with some CLP on a rag just to be sure. Wipe the screws down also. Solvent doesn't just eat away dirt and grime, it will work its way into steel parts also. Thats why its important to use it, then get it out.


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## jglenn (Nov 14, 2013)

nockemstiff said:


> The ejector being? The pin that protrudes at the bolt face?
> 
> No marks on the bullet itself that I can tell other than where they have been sliding up and into the magazine.



yep the ejector is the little button on the bolt face. you should be able fairly easily push it down with punch.


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## F.A.R.R. (Nov 14, 2013)

nockemstiff said:


> OK, I read this and thought, well I do still have my old original Federal Premium 150g NP rounds I was shooting, some Hornady SST 130g rounds I picked up, and these Hornady Custom Lite SST 120g which I most recently starting shooting and really liking.
> 
> So while it seems in my mind I recall this bolt always being kind of stiff to work - and indeed it is and sure would like to do something to improve its performance - after cycling several of each round through just now - the problem of having to really work to open and close it seems to totally be coming from - you probably guessed it - the Hornady Custom Lites which I recently started using.
> 
> Dang.  I really liked shooting these.  Alright, so maybe a call to Hornady - or headspace issue still???



What it is sounds like to me is you have a gun with a pretty "tight" chamber, and the brass sizing on the 120 grain rounds you like are sized a little different than the others. It pretty much sounds like the shoulder angle on the 120 gr loads may be a little different than the others-if not this the case itself may be longer. If the bullet  are seated out so far that it touched the barrel rifling  when you lock the bolt there would be easy to see marks on the copper jacket.

If you don't mind dropping a few bucks and just for a test buy a box of standard Remington Rounds and see how these cycle.

A tight chamber on a bolt gun usually means you can get more accuracy out of it . That's the idea behind "fire forming"  brass and then only sizing the neck when reloading. But  it's mostly a benefit to competition shooters or long range varmit guns.  

For deer guns where there's always the chance you may need a quick follow up shot my opinion is it's best to have rounds which you don't have to worry about cycling problems.


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## F.A.R.R. (Nov 14, 2013)

I actually have some old Remington 150 gr round nose factory rounds-I would have bought these over 20 years ago.


If you want to try a few to see how they cycle send me a PM with your mailing adress.


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## F.A.R.R. (Nov 14, 2013)

From the pictures it would seem your ejector is fine

This gets pushed all the way back when you close the bolt and then "punches"the spent case out when you open the bolt.

It would cause the gun to be hard to close if it where sticking out some-but in looking at the pictures your brass build up is over the entire face of the bolt -so it looks like ejector is being pushed back and doing it's job ok


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## nockemstiff (Nov 18, 2013)

FARR that's awesome to offer some rounds. I have been truly impressed by a lot of the people on GON and I always try to be just as generous. At this point I have cycled through a few different ones. The issue is unbearable with the 120gr but easily manageable with the others. I still would like it to be more forgiving and smoother when trying to achieve a follow up shot. Is it worthwhile or even possible to fix?

I've had to take a bit of a break with it, wife's grandfather passed so we have that to take care of first.


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## F.A.R.R. (Nov 18, 2013)

nockemstiff said:


> FARR that's awesome to offer some rounds. I have been truly impressed by a lot of the people on GON and I always try to be just as generous. At this point I have cycled through a few different ones. The issue is unbearable with the 120gr but easily manageable with the others. I still would like it to be more forgiving and smoother when trying to achieve a follow up shot. Is it worthwhile or even possible to fix?
> 
> I've had to take a bit of a break with it, wife's grandfather passed so we have that to take care of first.



Sorry about ya 'all loss. Best to be close to your wife through this time.


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## Sharps40 (Nov 27, 2013)

F.A.R.R. said:


> What it is sounds like to me is you have a gun with a pretty "tight" chamber, and the brass sizing on the 120 grain rounds you like are sized a little different than the others. It pretty much sounds like the shoulder angle on the 120 gr loads may be a little different than the others-if not this the case itself may be longer. If the bullet  are seated out so far that it touched the barrel rifling  when you lock the bolt there would be easy to see marks on the copper jacket.
> 
> If you don't mind dropping a few bucks and just for a test buy a box of standard Remington Rounds and see how these cycle.
> 
> ...



This!!!! +1

A chamber cut with a match reamer is tight.  A chamber cut with a reamer nearing the end of its life span is tight.  Neither is a bad thing...just tolerances.

Ammo manufactured in new draw dies is small, in draw dies nearing the end of their life span is larger....neither is a bad thing...just tolerances.

A tight chamber (minimum specification) and larger ammo (maximum specification) will chamber with feel....not a bad thing, just tollerance Stacking.  Very normal.

Purchase ammo, check fit, fire, buy more of the same lot...done for several seasons.  Typical and recommended procedure for any firearm.

As for brass on the bottom of the bolt...normal, the bolt overrides the ammo in the magazine and takes on the color.

Brass on the bolt face...normal, the bolt rotates against the case head.

Given you have the matt finish remington (textured/bead blasted surfaces) the brass will color the bolt face and bottom more quickly than a highly polished or jeweled bolt.  Clean and lube and dont' worry.

Scratches on the case body appear normally, specially with ammo cycled from the magazine several times....they rub the mag box, rub the action rails, rub on the ramp, etc....and your matt finished Rem has a somewhat more abrasive surface than a highly polished inside and out shiney blued gun.

Have a smith check your Go/No Go headspaceing to allay your concerns....it'll come out fine.  

Then, choose yer ammo and go shoot with confidence.


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## Darkhorse (Nov 28, 2013)

It looks like you have a seriously tight throat in your chamber. Just looking at that fired case gives me shivers. Talk about a pressure spike!
No way would I pull the trigger on that rifle until a COMPETENT gunsmith checks it out. I don't know of one in your area closer than Macon. Maybe the Rifleman on 247?
I don't guess you are familiar with reading micrometers and dial calipers are you? Checked against a reloading manual the  factory case specs. at least could be verified.
Personally, while I really like Hornady bullets, and even use some factory loads in my .308, I don't like Hornady brass and will not use it for hot loads in my 7mm or .300 Win. mag.
Could be headspace issues but more likely it might be a combination.
I see you are in Vienna, that's just down the road. We do have a pretty fair gunsmith in town "Sheps", I had forgotten about him. I don't have his contact info handy but I'll try and get it for you.


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## Sharps40 (Dec 2, 2013)

Did you take this to a smith yet?    Hope so since its impossible to measure a chamber from photos of cases.  No sense sittin and worrying based on myth and fears. Sky is falling warnings to the side, I suspect you will find headspace and chamber dimensions within tolerance and your issue is limited to occasionally finding a brand or lot of ammo that is a bit snug.


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## 7mmstw (Dec 2, 2013)

Ejector spring an ejector issue


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## wareagle (Feb 3, 2014)

7nmmstw said:


> Ejector spring an ejector issue



7mm hit the nail on the head. As your rotating the bolt closed you are also rotating the extractor over the rim of the cartridge case head. One way to know for certain is to remove the bolt for the action, clip a round into the bolt face and feed it into the action manually. If the bolt closes smooth without the needed force as before then it's the extractor. The 700's have been plagued by extractor issues for some time now. Though most were the 223bolt face family.


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