# Rem 700 stock finish????



## Niner (Dec 18, 2009)

I sent the wooden stock off of my Rem 700 CDL back to Remington a while back because the poly (or whatever) they finished the stock with was chipping off of the forend tip. They sent me back a new stock as a replacement.
In the interim I bought an SPS stock off of Gunbroker or somesuch and just put the box with the new stock on it up on a shelf. 

Well, my Rem 700 is shooting so poorly that I am not even using it this season. It is literally shooting a 4 to 5 inch group at 100 yards. My antique M70 and BAR will put most rounds dang near touching at that range.

SO, I have decided to try a couple of things after the season goes out at the end of this month. The first thing I decided to try was putting it back into the wooden stock. So I pulled down the box and opened it up to take a look at the new stock they had sent me.

To my surprise, when I touched the wood the oils from my finger prints stayed behind. I got to looking at it and it looks like this stock is “in the raw” so to speak.  It is stained, just not sealed.

So I guess I’ll need to put some kind of a finish/sealer on the wood. I am figuring I’ll just use some of that Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil to give it an oil finish rather than some kind of poly stuff. Any of you guys ever use that Tru-Oil stuff?  OR would some kind of wax be better?


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## olchevy (Dec 18, 2009)

I use tru-oil on a regular basis mainly because its cheap and it works, but dont expect a profesional looking finish with it. Yes it will look very good but the other stock finishing stuff is a good bit more expensive and for a good reason. I still always coat it after the tru-oil though anyways. trust me hopefully someone like Ckneer will chime in on this and tell you how it really is!


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## cmshoot (Dec 18, 2009)

I used to use Tru Oil, but now I use Linspeed.  Available from Brownell's.


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## BamaBart (Dec 19, 2009)

I ordered a Bell & Carlson Alaskan II with a full aluminum bedding block for my 25-06 CDL.  I'm very  happy with it.
I ordered it from Stocky Stocks.


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## Cknerr (Dec 19, 2009)

Your a plank owner? Congrats Niner! Not many can claim that honor. Must have been entertaining getting the kinks out! 

Maybe I can help. I actually use Tru-oil on everything. The trick is lots of layers. 1 or 2 is not worth the effort. Sanding between layers produces lots of thin broken up layers that act like the shingles on your roof. When a roof is hit, the shingles give a little and return to their normal shape. The finish can do that too. It is also very easy to fix. When you put all the layers on, buff it out with a fairly course compound. Then go over it with a wax that dries hard like Carnuba. It makes for a wonderful satin finish and the wax is hard and protective. The wax absorbs dirt, oil, etc. and it rubs off first before the finish when abraded. By rewaxing every once in awhile, the finish is cleaned up and a protective barrier is replaces. A finish can last decades!

If you send me your email addy, I'll send you an article. It includes some stuff on how to keep large humidity changes from twisting the wood up. 

This is the way of doing things in my shop, not the fastest or the easiest I will admit. It can be done on your kitchen table without getting into too much trouble with the boss lady. 

Good luck,
Chris

PS: Hi Oldchevy


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