# finding my nock point?



## mattech (Aug 3, 2009)

well i put a new string on my bow (courtesy of reylamb) but havent taken it to get tuned yet. I want to try to tune myself a little first while i can. my question is how do i find my nock point? I have a bow square, and my rest is a qad drop away that was previosly set and hasnt been moved. i know to start at 5/8 of an inch high off that. but what if i was starting fresh without going off my rest. do i measure AtoA and find center or measure off my riser shelf and give a certain amount of space there. just courious, like stated before i will more than likely take it to get tuned by steve at twelve point, but i want to play with it myself for a while (thats how you learn) oh and i did a search but couldnt find anything about it, and my bow is a single cam diamond rock.


----------



## downsouth204 (Aug 4, 2009)

*nock*

Just put a nock and D loop on my string, used my whiskey biscuit for a rest. I also have a QAD, but it doesn't work with my Bowtech Admiral. Here's my basic setup steps: 
Bolted the rest in place on the bow, while placing both the horizontal and vertical adjustments temporarily at center. 
Using a t square, I clip it on the string and move it down until it touches the rest where the arrow will sit. On your QAD, you'll have to pull it up to the position it's in when cocked as if the bow is drawn. I then placed the nock on the string 1/4 inch high of center to start. it can be as low as 1/8 inch if you are using a release. In either case, as I've centered the adjustments on the rest, I can easily make adjustments there when I'm paper tuning. 
In my experience the arrow, if viewed from the side, always looks like it is pointing slightly down at the front while nocked. Unless your QAD is in the up position as it would be with the with the bow drawn, it'll be pointing down quite a bit, lol.  
Also a good idea to keep fletching clearances in mind and things may have to be moved slightly up or down to accommodate.
Then line up the arrow for center shot by adjusting the rest left or right until the arrow is in line with the string. 
Next I paper tune the bow, moving the rest slightly left or right,  and up or down until I get a good paper tear. 
 Hope this helps!


----------



## bladerunner55 (Aug 4, 2009)

x2 well put downsouth


----------



## mattech (Aug 4, 2009)

downsouth204 said:


> Just put a nock and D loop on my string, used my whiskey biscuit for a rest. I also have a QAD, but it doesn't work with my Bowtech Admiral. Here's my basic setup steps:
> Bolted the rest in place on the bow, while placing both the horizontal and vertical adjustments temporarily at center.
> Using a t square, I clip it on the string and move it down until it touches the rest where the arrow will sit. On your QAD, you'll have to pull it up to the position it's in when cocked as if the bow is drawn. I then placed the nock on the string 1/4 inch high of center to start. it can be as low as 1/8 inch if you are using a release. In either case, as I've centered the adjustments on the rest, I can easily make adjustments there when I'm paper tuning.
> In my experience the arrow, if viewed from the side, always looks like it is pointing slightly down at the front while nocked. Unless your QAD is in the up position as it would be with the with the bow drawn, it'll be pointing down quite a bit, lol.
> ...



thanks , i am curios about setting nock point from the rest though, this is how i am doing it now, but lets say you put the rest on to high or to low, it just seems a little a little backwards to me, from what i would think is that you want to start from the string and center there first, i mean shouldnt  all the force come from the very center of the string. thanks again for the info so far


----------



## riskyb (Aug 4, 2009)

i know it seems backwards but that how the pros do it, and thats how qad tells you to do it on their dvd when they show you ow to install it


----------



## Browtine (Aug 4, 2009)

I set my D-loop/nock point center of pull (usually is in line with the berger hole) and adjust the rest up or down to get proper arrow flight. I was given this tip by a tournament archer an archery instructor. I have yet to do it on a bow that wouldn't tune just using the rest adjustment and I don't have the issues that can come from having d-loop and nock point off of center of pull. They've all pulled evenly and straight back into my hand rather than the top or bottom wanting to roll back on the draw.


----------



## mattech (Aug 4, 2009)

Browtine said:


> I set my D-loop/nock point center of pull (usually is proper arrow flight. I was given this tip by a tournament archer an archery instructor. I have yet to do it on a bow that wouldn't tune just using the rest adjustment and I don't have the issues that can come from having d-loop and nock point off of center of pull. They've all pulled evenly and straight back into my hand rather than the top or bottom wanting to roll back on the draw.




so where is center of pull and what is a berger hole.


----------



## reylamb (Aug 5, 2009)

Very few bows have the center of the string at the center of the bow.  It actually makes for a fairly unbalanced system overall because that puts the pivot point of the grip below the center of the bow.  On most bows you will see that the shelf and or deepest part of the grip is actually at the center of the bow, not the berger hole.

The berger hole is where your rest bolts in.  It was named after the guy that invented the Burger button rest many moons ago when finger shooting was the only way to go.

I start by setting the nock point so that is either even or slightly nock high with the arrow running through the center of the berger hole.  From there I move rest height to fine tune everything.

On most bows you will set nock slightly high for drop aways and level for prong style or shoot through rests.


----------



## mattech (Aug 5, 2009)

reylamb said:


> Very few bows have the center of the string at the center of the bow.  It actually makes for a fairly unbalanced system overall because that puts the pivot point of the grip below the center of the bow.  On most bows you will see that the shelf and or deepest part of the grip is actually at the center of the bow, not the berger hole.
> 
> The berger hole is where your rest bolts in.  It was named after the guy that invented the Burger button rest many moons ago when finger shooting was the only way to go.
> 
> ...



very thorough, now i understand, thank you. also thanks to everyone else.


----------

