# Making box call lid



## Adirondacker (Mar 13, 2011)

I received a couple questions about putting the curve on the bottom side of the lids for box calls. Here's the method I came up with by trial and error, yes some made it to the kindling box. I figured I'd post it as a help to some and also to see if anyone had any suggestions. I'm guessing this can be done by some type of power shaper but one hasn't turned up in my shop. After making a few now I can knock out this curve in 15 to 20 minutes depending on the wood hardness. Counting layout, bandsawing, and shaping I figure each lid takes about 45 to 60 minutes total. 

1. (Pict 1)I divide the underside of the roughed out lid into 4 equal parts with a pencil. At this point I have already got the blank cut to the exact thickness, length and width. I also found it best to have the handle shape cut out and not curve the underside of that part. 
2. I clamped a bar to the workbench as a backstop and clamped the handle down so that the blank moves as little as possible when I work it with a rasp. Push strokes work best but you have to be careful with softer woods not to gouge too deep. 
3. (Pict 2 and 3) At first I concentrate only on getting the edge profile thickness right. I don't think there is a right or wrong thickness but be careful not to get it too thin or have blank hanging off edge of workbench!  Gentle stokes at first break the edge. Don't worry about the lines you drew when creating this first flat surface.
4. (Pict 4 and 5) Next your going to work to make a second flat surface from the upper edge you just created to the nearest drawn line. At this point you are just rasping to create  flat surfaces. You will break down the edges between them later.
5. (Pict 7) Next you rasp another flat surface from the upper upper edge you just created to the center line. 
6. Flip it over and do the same on the other side and you will have six flat surfaces. 
7. Then you work the edges where the flat surfaces meet and this creates five more flat surfaces. With softer woods you can switch to a flat file. I have two rasps, one being more aggressive than the other. I also have several different files as well. I switch between them depending on how the wood responds all the while mindful that I cannot put wood back on 
8. After filing I switch to 120 grit sandpaper and work everything into a curve with strokes going lengthwise. The last two pictures show the last paddle I made out of mahogany.
9. After that I go between the belt sander and drill press with a drum sander bit to shape and smooth the handle portion. No since spending time on that if I mess up when creating the curved underside.

Hope this helps.


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## WaddleWhacker (Mar 13, 2011)

i guess i cheat  cause i use a router with a big thumbnail bit  i can do about 12 in a hour


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## rutandstrut (Mar 13, 2011)

That looks like it is a lot of work! I use either a Belt Sander or my Planer. I had the side of one set of Planer Baldes ground to the shape of my paddles. I have a fence that I install on my Planer and run the precut Paddle Blanks  through the side of the planer to cut the radius on the Lid Blank. I run 2 to 3 foot pieces through and then cut them to length.


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## Adirondacker (Mar 13, 2011)

Converted my router table into something else planning to set the router up in the empty space between the guide rails my table saw. That did not work out so well so now I have to build or buy another table. I have a thickness planer but no blades to get the right shape. Besides how else am I going to keep these ripped biceps and forearms in shape?

Unfortunately I haven't found a tool that'll work out my belly.

I tried using the belt sander but actually found it more difficult to judge the amount of wood I was removing.


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## ryanwhit (Mar 13, 2011)

Adirondacker said:


> Unfortunately I haven't found a tool that'll work out my belly.



Mexican food will


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## rutandstrut (Mar 13, 2011)

Adirondacker said:


> Converted my router table into something planing to set it up on my table saw. That did not work out so well so now I have to build of buy another table. I have a thickness planer but no blades to get the right shape. Besides how else am I going to keep these ripped biceps and forearms in shape?
> 
> Unfortunately I haven't found a tool that'll work out my belly.
> 
> I tried using the belt sander but actually found it more difficult to judge it.



That is one of the things that amazes me with Call Making...all the different methods that people use to make a call to fool Mother Nature! You can use the blades that you have. I took one of my Paddles and the Blades from my surface planer to a Tool Maker and had him grind the left side of the Blades to cut the radius of the paddle. You can still use the other side of the Planer to plane wood to thickness!


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## Adirondacker (Mar 13, 2011)

rutandstrut said:


> That is one of the things that amazes me with Call Making...all the different methods that people use to make a call to fool Mother Nature! You can use the blades that you have. I took one of my Paddles and the Blades from my surface planer to a Tool Maker and had him grind the left side of the Blades to cut the radius of the paddle. You can still use the other side of the Planer to plane wood to thickness!



That's a good idea. I've just got the one 10" Ryobi planer given to me by a neighbor. I also mess with making furniture and like to use wide boards for that so I'd need to change out the blades if I had another set made but shouldn't be too big a deal. Of course making three or four paddles in a row is a pretty good way to get a workout.


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