# Longbow String Help.......



## notnksnemor (Aug 27, 2007)

Need some string help.
Don't know a lot about longbows ( actually I think it's a self bow). 
Using AMO measurements like on a recurve, it measures 66".

I have a 61" string on it, and with no twist, the brace height is 7" and it doesn't feel right. Gets to about 3/4 draw and starts stacking really bad.
Do I need a 62" string, or longer one?

Thanks,
 Rick


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## reviveourhomes (Aug 27, 2007)

Needs to be 62" string, the string should have twist in it. Without the twist it loses its strength. But the stacking feel might be the bow itself and not teh string, but the string is still the wrong size.


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## notnksnemor (Aug 27, 2007)

Thanks, Kind of what I thought on the string. 61" is the longest I can find locally. Does anyone here make a good dacron string??

Rick


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## frankwright (Aug 27, 2007)

Yes, You need at least a 62" string but many selfbows will really stack if drawn beyond the draw length they were built for. Any Traditional bow will stack if overdrawn but you will really feel it on a board bow or self bow.

Good Luck


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## reviveourhomes (Aug 27, 2007)

What is your draw length, that might be a good indicator as far as the stack.


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## ChrisSpikes (Aug 27, 2007)

Try      http://www.3riversarchery.com/

or        http://www.kustom-king.com/


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## choctawlb (Aug 27, 2007)

7" is kinda high brace height for a self bow, they usually shoot better at 6" to 6 1/2" . I can make you a string if your interested in "Flemish Twist" . I use Dacron 50 , so it won't hurt a self bow. PM me if interested. 
Thanks,
Ken Purdy


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## notnksnemor (Aug 28, 2007)

reviveourhomes said:


> What is your draw length, that might be a good indicator as far as the stack.



I know I'm over drawing a little. I'm a 29" draw, and the bow says it's 55# @ 28".
The stacking starts way before 28 inches, probably at around 24-25".
I was wondering if the short string would cause some of that?

Thanks for all the help so far,

Rick


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## TTom (Sep 1, 2007)

According to all my reading, anytime the string angle gets close to 90 degrees you get stack. Shorter bows get to 90 degrees earlier than longer ones. It's part of the trade off.

Lower brace height will help reduce stack.


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## 60Grit (Sep 1, 2007)

I'm wantin to learn but a couple of words are throwing me here.

Stacking = ? Got it, too hard to draw in the last few inches

Brace Height = ? Ok I looked this one up. Mine is 6 1/4"

Mine is a AMO 69 1/4 inch homemade Osage long bow.

I draw 30", this is set up for #60 at 28" and it is all I can do to get a full draw.

Without learning to draw short and quickfire would a slightly longer string help relieve my dillema??

Oops, forgot to add, the string is a Flemish Twist and measured from "y" to "y" is 62" overall 64"

Based on the math on the second post, would I really need a 65 to 66" string?? Now, here is another issue, since I now understand brace height, is going to a longer string, based on the math from the links, going to hurt my brace height too much?? I can only assume it will shorten it, putting it under the recommended minimum.

OK, I might stop editing this post before the day is done.
I measured my AMO based on guidelines I found on google. The fella that made my bow should have understood what this was, but the amo 69 1/4 he has written on the bow is actually the overall length. The amo from string groove to string groove, following what little countour there is, is actually 68". Based on a 3" deduction for a longbow then I should be shooting a 65" string.

Does all of this sound right to you boys?? This still means the string that is on this bow is too short and should explain the stacking issues I am having. Although I do not know how this is going to change the draw length and relief of stacking.

Any advice?


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## fflintlock (Sep 1, 2007)

Question- "I draw 30", this is set up for #60 at 28" and it is all I can do to get a full draw."

 Hint- I would start with a slightly lighter bow and work my way up to this 60#, sounds to me you are a little overbowed. When I started shooting my 50# longbow again, after being away from it awhile, I had to pick up my 43# Bear and shoot it for awhile. It's like lifting weights, start low, then build up. It's hard to get and keep good form if you can't controll the draw, anchor and release motions. If it was built for a 28" draw at 60 lbs. then you are pulling about 66lbs. at your 30" draw. That's alot of bow if your not use to it. If it is indeed an all wood selfbow, then perhaps you may want to think about having it re-tillered for you.

Question- "Without learning to draw short and quickfire would a slightly longer string help relieve my dillema??"

Hint- See above hint, plus, some bows are made for a certain draw length and are not designed for the overdraw you have. Glass backed bows are a little different then all wood selfbows tillered for a certain draw weight and length. I would concentrate on a good solid anchor and good controlled release above all else, if your going to be pointing it at any animals. 
Of course, these hints are just my opinions, I am by no means an expert on bows, shooting or form. I have my own dillemas at times  Just some things I was thinking about to help you out.
Jerald


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## 60Grit (Sep 1, 2007)

How much stacking is going to be relieved if I go to the appropriate string length based on the true amo??


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## fflintlock (Sep 1, 2007)

I would say very little, if your pulling more then what the bow was actually intended for, draw length that is.


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## reviveourhomes (Sep 1, 2007)

I agree with Jerald. At your draw that bow is at 66 pounds. Thats ALOT of draw weight for a beginner, way too much really. Its best to start off with around 45-50 pounds, and thats even for the bigger guys to. To have proper form grounded you need a light bow. Its almost imposible to learn proper form if you are over bowed.

I would say the stack is not gonna be fixed by the  proper string. It might help but not alot I would think the percieved stack also has more to do with the weight your getting to at full draw. Pulling a66 pounds with no let-off is alot different than pulling a 70 pound compound. You just use different muscles. Until those muscles get conditioned it feels alot heavier than it really is. Thats just my .02


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## TTom (Sep 3, 2007)

Reducing string length to proper barce height will help a bit with the stack however it won't make a HUGE difference, a pound or two per inch. However this will mean you have to keep an eye on arrow spine, longer power stroke means a change in parallax.


Likely the opinions about being over bowed are also correct it takes some ral getting used to to deal with high weight without let off. There is no getting around the string angle causeing stack, the string will always be approaching the 90 degree angle as you draw and thus the last 3 or 4 inches of draw will be heavier than the first 3 or 4.

The longer string will reduce the stack a bit but it cannot ever remove all stack.


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## Al33 (Sep 4, 2007)

You fellows have been given some great advice here and I will add my own now. With all the bows available today for a beginning traditional shooter to choose from a self bow made by and for someone else would be the last one I would recommend to start with. It appears to me at least that in these circumstances you fellows have too many hurdles to get over with the bows alone much less establishing your shooting form and style. I would recommend you put these particular bows aside and spend the bucks to get a decent laminated bow 45-55 pounds and learn to shoot with them. You need to minimize the potential problems and challenges a bow can present because you will have enough on your own. I do not mean to   make this trad thing sound too difficult because it isn't, just that it can be if are not shooting a bow that fits YOU. Find a bow that fits you and then find the arrows that fit the bow. Once you have done these two things the rest is a piece of cake.

Good luck,


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## deerstand (Sep 4, 2007)

one thing to remember is wood doesnt stack. if it is a self bow it will bend until it breaks, especially if it is unbacked.
 if it is unbacked the next sound you hear will be the crack of a limb breaking. 
 if after it has been restrung you still hear cracking, get it in the hands of a good bowyer, they can probably rework it to your draw length by removing some wood from the belly from handle to tip. but dont try this yourself.


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