# Fleshing a deer hide ??



## ALwoodsman (Dec 7, 2011)

This is my first attempt a brain tanning.  I just fleshed the hide tonight and have removed all of the thicker flesh and membrane.  I assume that I now need to remove all of the pink areas on the hide but I am not having much luck.  Is there any tricks to this or do I just need to put more elbow grease into it?


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## Trefer (Dec 7, 2011)

once you have all the meat and fat off...and some of the membrane... and you are down to the fiber network thats about all you'll get.
I'm not sure what you mean about the pink areas unless  you are talking about blood stains ...if that's what it is don't worry about that.  they'll come out later and you won't see them.


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## Son (Dec 14, 2011)

Fleshing is a job of labor for sure. The cleaner you get the hide, the better end job you'll have. A sharp blade is what I use. Experience will learn you a few tricks that nobody can explain. Watching an experienced person will certainly be a short cut in learning. Good luck.


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## dtala (Dec 14, 2011)

my method ain't traditional but it was brought on in my taxidermy work. 

I use a 3500psi pressure washer with a rotating cutting head. It will clean a deer skin in just minutes and it forces water INTO the skin making the tanning agents work better.

I completely cleaned a 2000# bison bulls skin in less than an hour with it. More like 12 hours er so by traditional fleshing wheel use, no telling how long with a knife..

  troy


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## Son (Dec 14, 2011)

Pressure washing will sure get the blood out too.


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## deersled (Dec 15, 2011)

Al, How'd it turn out? Just got done graining one this evening. Whew! what a job


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## ALwoodsman (Dec 18, 2011)

deersled said:


> Al, How'd it turn out? Just got done graining one this evening. Whew! what a job



Looks like I will have to try my luck on another hide.  I soaked this one in wood ashes for about 4 days and was not having much luck getting the grain off.  I assume the solution was not strong enough.  I let it soak for a couple more days and it got to stinking pretty bad.  I bought some lime and I think I will try that on the next one.  What did you use?


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## deersled (Dec 18, 2011)

I've only used "hydrated" lime. I get it at a nursery in Newnan. Supposedly you can't make it too strong. Grained one this morning that had been soaking for 11 days and it worked fine (no stentch). I think the lime neutralizes the rotting process. I have also soaked them in plain water and that works too. You may have a stink problem with plain water if you leave it too long.

I believe the pink area you mention is the "grain" that needs to be removed. It seems to be mostly pink around the neck. Everywhere else it is a creamy white to light brownish in my experience (limited).

Are you using a fleshing beam of some kind?


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## ALwoodsman (Dec 19, 2011)

I am using a 6-8 inch cedar log for a fleshing beam.  I made a scraper out of a piece of flat bar stock.  I bought some hydrated lime a few days ago and hopefully I will have another hide to try it out on soon.


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## DvilleDawn (Dec 20, 2011)

dtala said:


> my method ain't traditional but it was brought on in my taxidermy work.
> 
> I use a 3500psi pressure washer with a rotating cutting head. It will clean a deer skin in just minutes and it forces water INTO the skin making the tanning agents work better.
> 
> ...



You dont end up just blowing a hole right through your hide with that much pressure? 
Im not familuar with the rotating cutting head, is this what prevents it from blowing right through it?


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## dtala (Dec 21, 2011)

if your aren't careful you CAN cut a hole thru the hide, esp in thin areas, flanks and base of tail. Hold the head at an angle and "push" the flesh/fat off the hide.


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## DvilleDawn (Dec 22, 2011)

dtala said:


> if your aren't careful you CAN cut a hole thru the hide, esp in thin areas, flanks and base of tail. Hold the head at an angle and "push" the flesh/fat off the hide.



Thanks man I think I might give this a try one day.


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