# Flintlock Kit



## pacecars (Apr 9, 2013)

After seeing all the beautiful rifles built by some of the members here my interest in building a flintlock has been rekindled. I have nowhere near the talent of these craftsman/artists so need all the help I can get to start out. I built, or should I say assembled, a Lyman Great Plains percussion kit 25 years ago and that is about the extent of my experience. In other words, no experience. I have mainly been looking at the kits offered by Track of the Wolf. I would assume I would want the dovetail cuts since I don't have access to a mill but what other gunsmithing steps should I have done when I order a kit? Any suggestions on certain kits? I am leaning towards this one in .45 caliber: http://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categ...E-LONGRIFLE-FLINT-PARTS-LIST/KIT-ETI-15-FLINT

Any suggestions or help would be appreciated


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## Supercracker (Apr 9, 2013)

My $.02-$.04 based on my somewhat limited experience.



If It were me, I would get a .50 over the .45. I can't think of a situation in which I'd say " I wish I had a .45 instead of a .50" but I have ran into pigs that I would definitely say "I sure wish I had a .50 instead of a .45". Or maybe even a .54, it will be legal for big game in places that a .50 or .45 won't.
Understand that "pre inlet" really means that most of the material in the lnlets has been removed but you're still going to be doing  a lot of inletting yourself. I would also consider getting a Pre Carve but not Pre Inletted stock. I have done both and more often than not I have ran into situations where it would have been easier to deal with inletting the part in exactly the right place myself to begin with rather than work with a Pre Inlett that is 1/8" out of position. The Pre Inlett stocks really only have the hogging out done for you, that would be hard to mess up and isn't visible whereas the final inletting that is visible you'll be doing yourself anyway. So, to me, it would be easier to start with a non inletted stock. 
While we're talking about inletting. GO SLOW.  Once you get close to where you should be on the inletting you should be taking off slivers of wood that light will come through. I made a bunch of tiny little angled scrapers and use them to take off that last tiny little bit of wood. 
Get the lowest grade wood you can to start with. It makes the mistakes less painful. Plus, if you're anything like me, about 5 minutes after you finish it you're going to look at it and think "I can do better" and consider getting another stock and redoing everything
Getting the dovetails milled is handy, but doing it by hand is not as hard as you think it would be. However it's just as scary as you'd imagine to take a hacksaw to your new barrel, but it's not hard to do. I also low temp solder them in place after I get them in the dovetail anyway just for extra durability. So if your dovetail isn't super tight it's not that big of a deal.
get the hickory RR, the Ramin is a spike waiting to happen.
Buy this book and digest it before you build anything.  http://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/303/1/BOOK-GGC
If you're inclined to get  a video I'd recommend the set Building the Jim Chambers Rifle Kit" with Ron Ehlert. 
Maple is easier to work with (to me anyway) than Walnut.
when you start to build it, break the build up into small, separate projects that you can finish in a session. It's easier to stay on track when you can end each work session feeling like you accomplished something.
Mark Lee "Express Brown".  You can't get it at TOW but IME it's the one to use.
The lock panel as it comes on the pre carved stock is HUGE. Make the lock panel thin around the lock. Thinner than you think will look good. Trust me. It will make the whole gun look more graceful.
Don't even try any carving on the first gun. It wouldn't really be right on a southern gun like that anyway. 
if the barrel doesn't come with the plug installed then get it installed. If they charged $300 it would still be worth it.


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## pacecars (Apr 9, 2013)

"Gunsmithing Labor: install breech plug, fitted inside [$25.00]" 
I figured that might be worth it


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## pacecars (Apr 9, 2013)

I don't know that I will hunt big game with it. I was originally thinking squirrels and either a .32 or .36 caliber. The link only comes in .45 and up. I have considered a .40 which would be legal for deer in Florida even though it would not be my first choice.


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## bam_bam (Apr 9, 2013)

Look at Jim chambers flintlocks. There very good kits, some say the best as far as pre carved kits go.


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## pacecars (Apr 9, 2013)

thanks! I was afraid his would be more expensive but for what comes standard and what you get it looks pretty reasonable.


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## pacecars (Apr 9, 2013)

The Early York Pennsylvania Rifle, Model RK-2 in .40 might be perfect


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## flintlocker (Apr 9, 2013)

Jim Chambers all the way, Hands down the best out there.
Go ahead and let them do everything they offer as far as pre inletting and such, It will be much closer than the others.
There is a LOT more to them than the Lyman or T/C kits but it is a lot more rifle also.
http://www.flintlocks.com/

Supercracker is spot on.
Good luck to you and keep us posted.


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## Gordief (Apr 9, 2013)

sitting fox muzzleloaders looks to be a good kit


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## Supercracker (Apr 9, 2013)

bam_bam said:


> Look at Jim chambers flintlocks. There very good kits, some say the best as far as pre carved kits go.



Without a doubt the best.  Their pre inletting is worth getting. The only reason I didn't suggest them is because they don't offer one similar to the one he linked to.


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## pacecars (Apr 10, 2013)

Thanks for the ideas. I am thinking poor boy style for my first attempt and they all have something close to what I like. I am probably on Homeland Security's watch list with all the black powder I have just for my Shiloh so I figure I need something else to help burn it up


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## mmarkey (Apr 30, 2013)

I've built the Chamber's York kit. It uses a swamp profile barrel which will make your rifle hold wonderfully. I think it comes with a B profile barrel. It makes a very nice rifle. 

I would recommend going to 50 Cal. unless your goal is squirrel or small game hunting. You're going to get a lighter rifle with a larger caliber, with more capability for larger game if you decide to hunt.  Chambers will also cut your dovetails for you for a fee. Although you can cut them yourself, it's not hard to do using a triangle file with a safe side and a hack saw. Just take your time and try fit often when you get close. I always cut my own. 

The best advice I can give you is to get a book. My favorite and I've built many and I still refer to it, is the Gunsmith of Grenville County.   http://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/303/1/BOOK-GGC
It will take you from start to finish in the building process, showing how to do it, design it, including tools and techniques. It is well worth the $39. 

I recommend buying the book and reviewing it *before *you purchase your kit. Some things in the book may influence your choices.

All the best with whatever you choose. But I warn you it's addictive.


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