# Cloudy Headlight Lens



## SWAMPFOX (Mar 30, 2008)

The headlight lens on my '96 Ford Explorer are "cloudy." I've priced new ones and used ones and the cost is pretty steep. Is there anything made that I can buy to polish/resurface them? And will it be a permanent fix? They are so cloudy that it really hampers my night driving. Thanks


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## bluemarlin (Mar 30, 2008)

If you go to a auto parts store you'll find something made for cloudy headlights. It's basically a Brasso type abrasive cleaner.


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## Tree Blazin (Mar 30, 2008)

This was a notorious problem for ford from the mid 80s to late 90s, It happened to every one I've owned


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## 60Grit (Mar 30, 2008)

Toothpaste.


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## frankwright (Mar 30, 2008)

Do a Google search for "headlight polishing" and you will find all kinds of tips, instructions and products. 

You can make them look like new again!


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## Davis31052 (Mar 30, 2008)

*cloudy headlamps*

Try Certifit in Forest Park.  They're online catalog shows list price on those headlamp assy's to be right at $40.00 each. If thats still too much money, you can buff them out using a low speed automotive type buffer. On my 1997 F-150, I have polished them twice since 2004.  It works, but, they will get cloudy again, in a year or so. Here's the contact info for Certifit. Go to the website and look at the online catalog for more info.

220 Southfield Parkway
Forest Park, GA 30297-2520  


(800) 528-7750
(404) 363-8970


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## GoldDot40 (Mar 30, 2008)

"000" steel wool will do wonders. Follow up with some automotive car polish. Or you can try and find some 'Clear Plastic Cleaner' from Meguiars. I've used both with excellent results.


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## WOOD 270 (Mar 30, 2008)

*lens*

My buddy uses a fine sandpaper and watersands them


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## SWAMPFOX (Mar 30, 2008)

So the problem in on the exterior of the lens and not the interior?


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## dawg2 (Mar 30, 2008)

SWAMPFOX said:


> So the problem in on the exterior of the lens and not the interior?



I'd go to a car parts place and try that first.  I have seen some liquid stuff you can put on there.  Steel wool will scratch that plastic.  Honestly, I'm thinking it will be all the way through them.


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## GoldDot40 (Mar 30, 2008)

dawg2 said:


> I'd go to a car parts place and try that first.  I have seen some liquid stuff you can put on there.  Steel wool will scratch that plastic.  Honestly, I'm thinking it will be all the way through them.



Have you ever used steel wool? '000'(which is VERY fine) steel wool can be used to polish chrome. It's not the same stuff you'd use to scrub pots and pans. I worked in automotive detail for a number of years and I garantee you it works...even on plastic. It 'may' leave a light haze on the lense, but that can be cleared right up with regular car polish. I've done it to dozens upon dozens of headlight lenses with near perfect results. The customers were extremely happy.

If the lense at hand are the plastic lense (like most are today), then more than likely the lenses are faded from natures elements. And most of it will be the 'top layer'. All you're doing with steel wool is removing a faded layer and getting down to untouched plastic.....it's the same as removing 'oxidized' paint.

Now if we're talking about 'glass' sealed beam headlights which were notorious for letting water stand in them especially on some Fords, you'll want to use a different approach. Simply drill a tiny hole in the bottom to allow air in and/or the standing water to drain out.


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## lawnman (Mar 30, 2008)

Fixed my 98 F-150 headlamps that were the same way. Had a guy at a shop here in town tell me how to do it and they look new. Wetsand them with 1200 grit and dry them off. Then go back over them really good with 0000 steel wool. I then used FLITZ and finally put a good coat of wax on them. The Flitz alone would not do it like is advertised on tv. They look great and maybe $15 dollars and some elbow grease.


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## SWAMPFOX (Mar 30, 2008)

I've never done wet sanding and don't want to assume that you just wet the surface of the lens and start sanding. Is the sand paper supposed to be wet? Or both the sand paper and the lens? Thanks.


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## Slug-Gunner (Mar 30, 2008)

*Lens Polishing Kits>>>*



SWAMPFOX said:


> I've never done wet sanding and don't want to assume that you just wet the surface of the lens and start sanding. Is the sand paper supposed to be wet? Or both the sand paper and the lens? Thanks.



If you purchase one of the Lens Polishing Kits sold at many auto parts stores, it should consist of a few small sheets of multi-grade emery paper and a small bottle of polishing compound. The packaging becomes a tray to keep the water in, but I just used two cereal bowls - one with 'clean' water in it and the other used to rinse and clean the emery paper between uses.

You start by cleaning the lenses with glass cleaner to remove any surface grit, sand, etc. - then you start wet-sanding with the 1200 grit 'wetted' paper IN ONE DIRECTION ONLY. Rinse and rewet the paper often. After about 5-10 min per lens, you move up to the next finer grit (about 1500 grit) and repeat wet-sanding each lens in the OPPOSITE DIRECTION, rinse the lenses again and repeat the process again with the 2000 and 2500 grit emery paper. Change the water used between grits to avoid cross-contaminating each grade of paper. Rinse the lens a final time and then use the "polishing compound" and polish until the lens is 'clear' again.

If you get some plastic polish like is used to clean motorcycle helmet lenses and use it on them every 3-6 months, you can prevent them from ever getting really 'cloudy' again. This process worked great on a friends '96 F-250 4WD.... he was amazed at the difference it made in night driving visibility.


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## Davis31052 (Mar 31, 2008)

When I did my first set on my daughters dodge neon, I went the sand paper route. After that I figure there has got to be an easier way. I now use a buffer, (Harbor Freight $17.00) and three levels of polish.

 First I used a medium grit polishing compound available at any auto body paint store, then I follow that with regular old Turtle wax rubbing compound, from Wal-Mart, (white tub, with red label) and then a final polish using 3M "Finesse It" polish.  

On the buffer I start out at the lowest speed using a black FOAM pad, not wool. On the final polish I bump the speed up to 3. You must keep the pad moving or you'll "burn" the lens and have swirl marks. This has worked for me on my truck, twice, ,my wife’s 94 T-bird, and a co-workers car. 

Not to take anything away from Slug or Bassquatch, But, I’ve found this method to work faster for me.


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## cook (Apr 1, 2008)

look on ebay and just get you a new set of lights
will look so much better


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## Camokid (Apr 8, 2008)

*Try this........*

Try this, start with 600 grit 3" da paper (depending on the severity of the yellowing) them move to 800 grit. Follow up with 1000 grit 3M Trizac, can be found at any PBE store, (Automotive Paint Store) in your area, then 1500 Trizac. Clean up with 3M plastic cleaner and a foam pad then 3M plastic polish and a polishing pad. 3M makes both in 3". When your done they will look brand new. Check out the pics below. 

I work in the Automotive Refinishing Industry.


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## Jim Ammons (Apr 8, 2008)

Purchase a box of Mr. Clean or Walmart brand magic cleaning erasers or another generic brand-less than $5.00 for four. Dampen one and follow instructions to clean. Worked on two of my vehicles. Works also on dingy white tennis shoes, etc.


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## DCHunter (Apr 9, 2008)

Ya'll are making this too complicated. Take Off brand bug repelent and spray it on the lense but don't get it on the paint. Wipe it off and you'll be amazed at how easily it clears it up.


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