# Refinishing a shotgun



## HuntinJakes (Aug 3, 2012)

I have a sweet sixteen that my grandfather gave me, and it is in by no means bad shape, but I would like to have it refinished. I want it to look like a new gun. Everything from the gold trigger to the bluing and wood redone.

I'm leaning towards having duracoat replace the bluing.

What do you think? And most importantly, who would you recommend? 

Thanks


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## Killdee (Aug 3, 2012)

Unless its rusting or something, I would just hunt with it, I love the patina an old gun takes on and most refinishes dont have the skill to do it right. While a bit harsh on you, the last guy is right, dont paint that gun. My turkey gun is duracoated but I dont think I would paint an heirloom.


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## HuntinJakes (Aug 3, 2012)

Killdee said:


> Unless its rusting or something, I would just hunt with it, I love the patina an old gun takes on and most refinishes dont have the skill to do it right. While a bit harsh on you, the last guy is right, dont paint that gun.



It has a little pitting towards the muzzle. It needs help in that area. I will be using it to duck hunt, and I want to take care of it, so that it doesn't become worse.


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## Killdee (Aug 3, 2012)

I dont duck hunt so I'm not very informed about it but dont you have to shoot steel shot now a days, if so you may want to find out if you can shoot steel in that gun without scratching the barrel. We were having a similar discussion re Tungsten shot, TSS and scratching barrels of older guns were building for turkey hunting on another forum.


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## HuntinJakes (Aug 3, 2012)

Killdee said:


> I dont duck hunt so I'm not very informed about it but dont you have to shoot steel shot now a days, if so you may want to find out if you can shoot steel in that gun without scratching the barrel. We were having a similar discussion re Tungsten shot, TSS and scratching barrels of older guns were building for turkey hunting on another forum.



Have to shoot Nice Shot, Kent Tungsten Matrix, Bismuth! Or Hevi Shot Classic Doubles. It's an IC choke so that's a bonus too.


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## Supercracker (Aug 4, 2012)

HuntinJakes said:


> it prevents rust. Bluing doesn't do this.



Yes it does, when it's oiled. That's the purpose behind blueing. 

Blueing is nothing but a superfine layer of rust that has been neutralized to stop the reaction then turned blue by heating while in an oxygen starved environment (IE: boiled). This fine layer of rust will hold oil and prevent the metal from developing rust. Blueing will prevent rust just fine so long as the gun gets wiped down with oil occasionally. However, when I say "Blueing" I'm refering specifically to a rust blue. While the cold blues (permablue, oxphoblue, etc) also do this they are orders of magnitude less durable and effective at doing it. I have guns built in the 1850s and 1880s that I hunt with regularly that still have the original metal finish on. I also have a flintlock I built 3 years ago and used cold blue and it's already worn shiny in places. The only reason these new finishes came into being is because rust blueing is a bit time consuming to do. So manufacturers find easier ways to make it look the same. First with cold blue now with these new terrible looking "coatings".  

To me, and obviously it's just an opinion and you know what those are like, I would never refinish it using modern finishes and techniques. All the character that these old guns have is derived from things like a shiny smooth blue finish and the nicks and dings they get along their journey. A nice old double with duracoat would be like a rolls royce with a spoiler. If it were me I'd fix the bad parts using the same finishes that were used when it was made. If I restored it at all. Unless it has mechanical issues or is really bad I would have the barrels reblued and bores finished and call it a day. Maybe also have the internals checked and cleaned. You never know when a spring might be cracking or pin working its way out of place. 

I have a Montgomery Ward 20Ga double that my Grandfather got for me as my first real gun when I was about 13. It's never getting restored.


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## 1devildog (Aug 4, 2012)

A sweet 16, unless it was in horrid condition, I would do nothing to it except keep it clean! Along with being your grandfathers, a true weapon that can be handed down for years to come, the second you have someone put it to a buffer and refinish, the value of the weapon is cut by a third and even worce if some HACK gets ahold of it. If its in decent shape, I would let it be! and go buy a different shotgun to hunt duck! JMHO!!!


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## biggdogg (Aug 4, 2012)

i agree with leaving as is. i have an old single shot 16 gauge that my great grandfather bought in 1908. i thought about refinishing it but couldn't bring myself to remove all the history and memories (marks, dings, etc) that my great grandfather, grandfather and my dad have put into it.


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## HuntinJakes (Aug 4, 2012)

Supercracker said:


> Yes it does, when it's oiled. That's the purpose behind blueing.
> 
> Blueing is nothing but a superfine layer of rust that has been neutralized to stop the reaction then turned blue by heating while in an oxygen starved environment (IE: boiled). This fine layer of rust will hold oil and prevent the metal from developing rust. Blueing will prevent rust just fine so long as the gun gets wiped down with oil occasionally. However, when I say "Blueing" I'm refering specifically to a rust blue. While the cold blues (permablue, oxphoblue, etc) also do this they are orders of magnitude less durable and effective at doing it. I have guns built in the 1850s and 1880s that I hunt with regularly that still have the original metal finish on. I also have a flintlock I built 3 years ago and used cold blue and it's already worn shiny in places. The only reason these new finishes came into being is because rust blueing is a bit time consuming to do. So manufacturers find easier ways to make it look the same. First with cold blue now with these new terrible looking "coatings".
> 
> ...



You sound like you know what you're talking about. I appreciate your input. Thanks


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## HuntinJakes (Aug 4, 2012)

1devildog said:


> A sweet 16, unless it was in horrid condition, I would do nothing to it except keep it clean! Along with being your grandfathers, a true weapon that can be handed down for years to come, the second you have someone put it to a buffer and refinish, the value of the weapon is cut by a third and even worce if some HACK gets ahold of it. If its in decent shape, I would let it be! *and go buy a different shotgun to hunt duck! JMHO!!*



That's most people. I however want to use it for its intended purpose just like he did, and just like I would want my kids to do with it. I've got plenty to hunt with... This one though, is going to get used a lot and I will have a big grin every time it shoots 

I will probably leave it as is, because all but one of you made some good points. The other guy though


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## easbell (Aug 4, 2012)

Glad you came to that decision. Cleaning and oiling a gun will make it last a VERY long time. If you are going to have them refinished it will normally lower the value and cost a lot of money to have done correctly in the manner in which they were done 50 years ago. 

Turnbull and Birley both have done work for me and I've been happy with both. I would suggest you have the pitting looked at by someone.


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## Supercracker (Aug 5, 2012)

easbell said:


> Glad you came to that decision. Cleaning and oiling a gun will make it last a VERY long time. If you are going to have them refinished it will normally lower the value and cost a lot of money to have done correctly in the manner in which they were done 50 years ago.



I agree that on some guns a restoration can lower the value. However I don't get the impression that he's talking about a high dollar gun. So I don't think resale value is a concern. I think his intent more preservation. So, at some point, a restoration may be appropriate. 

Also, btw, (historical significance aside)a restoration does not automatically reduce or ruin value. A borderline wall hanger turned into a shooter that is correct for its time period and maker has considerably more value. What does automatically ruin value is a bad restoration. Which is most of them. There is a thriving cottage industry in England of taking worn out vintage doubles and restoring them to shooters using  period correct techniques. It certainly doesn't hurt their value.


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## dawg2 (Aug 7, 2012)

Personally I would spray paint any gun.  I would probably get it reblued, especially since it is a family gun.


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## grouper throat (Aug 7, 2012)

I had an older browning bps 12 gauge that I duck hunted with alot that was missing some of the blue around the end of the barrel from wear. I took the old coat of blue off the gun and reblued it myself with one of those kits. It looked great compared to what it did before but not quite as good as new but close. 

I'd get it reblued by a professional if it was an heirloom though.


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## Jay Bee (Aug 14, 2012)

If I had a family airloom,  like that I would send it to Art's in Mo. I've had him restore 9 guns for me, they came back looking like the day they came from the fectory
http://artsgunshop.com


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## yaknfish (Aug 15, 2012)

I was firmly in the "don't refinish" camp. Then I watched the video on Art's website. 

I guess it depends if the gun is showing "patina and experience" or "abuse and neglect."


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## NotaVegetarian (Aug 15, 2012)

Try this Use a beartex pad, and some Kano Kroil this will strip old blue off in a hurry, and get the parts clean. Now degrease them, this is where you wear nitrile gloves. I use a vat filled with water and get it hot with a gas burners, just under boiling. For barrels I plug the ends with wooden dowel rods, tie string to the rods and dip in the hot water. I towel dry with clean cotton towels, then use a clean cotton towel to apply the Art’s Belgian blue. Nice even coats. Reheat between coats. Get it the shade you want then get it hot one more time, buff it dry with a clean soft cloth, and apply a good oil while hot.


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## mikey (Aug 16, 2012)

will that work for any metal parts?  where can i buy that stuff?


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## paulito (Aug 17, 2012)

I have an old model 12 pump 12 ga that was passed to me. duck hunted with it the first time as a rookie fowler and the guys i went with said they would never bring it to the marsh again. Clean it up and put it in a shadow box over the mantle. Told my dad that and his words were, "If your gonna do something sorry like that to that gun give it back. Its meant to hunt." I take it on special hunts each season and like you should smile every time it takes a bird. 

I do agree that you need to buy the better ammo and not shoot steel through it.


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## NotaVegetarian (Aug 22, 2012)

mikey said:


> will that work for any metal parts?  where can i buy that stuff?



Mikey,

No this process will not work for all metal surfaces, stainless or aluminum it would not be effective.  This is still considered a hot blue process, and is particularly good for projects like old double guns with silver soldered barrels.  Traditional hot blue reaches temperatures exceeding 500 degree’s.  This method the temps stay relatively low around the 200-225 degree mark.  Belgian Blue can still provide a deep rich finish, and protect the surface. It can been a good easy way to blue small parts as well.


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