# Trigger work on a Glenfield 25 - .22lr - Bolt Action.



## Handgunner (Jan 31, 2007)

I acquired this lil' bolt gun a while back and when I did, it wouldn't fire, or eject.

I got both of those fixed last night and while doing so, decided to lighten the trigger.  As anyone knows, these guns don't have the smoothest/lightest pull there is...

Anyhow, I think I know what I have to do, which is smooth the edges where the trigger engages... And I tried that with an emory board, but it just isn't working.

Here's my question.  How do you take it apart to get to those edges easier, and does the tiny spring on the back need to be shortened as well to lighten the pull?

Here is a picture of the assembly.


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## GA1dad (Jan 31, 2007)

Delton, you might look at www.rimfirecentral.com 

I have found trigger work ideas for other 22's there.


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## Handgunner (Jan 31, 2007)

Thanks, I'll check it out.

Anyone here know anything about it? Curtis?


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## Glassman (Jan 31, 2007)

I polished the trigger on my 883. There were 2 screws, 1 for the trigger and another for the sear. Take those 2 out and the trigger and sear will slide right out. I used an old Carborundum whet rock to smooth up the edges. In mine the peices were stamped so there was a lot to clean up.

I believe the small spring in the picture only pushes on the sear to engage it when the bolt is cocked and has nothing to do with trigger weight. There should be another spring, maybe one of those that wraps around a screw for the trigger.

Once you clean up the two parts, it may be light enough for you due to less friction. It has been a long time since I did mine. I hope I remembered right and it helps you out.


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## Handgunner (Jan 31, 2007)

Glassman said:


> I polished the trigger on my 883. There were 2 screws, 1 for the trigger and another for the sear. Take those 2 out and the trigger and sear will slide right out. I used an old Carborundum whet rock to smooth up the edges. In mine the peices were stamped so there was a lot to clean up.
> 
> I believe the small spring in the picture only pushes on the sear to engage it when the bolt is cocked and has nothing to do with trigger weight. There should be another spring, maybe one of those that wraps around a screw for the trigger.
> 
> Once you clean up the two parts, it may be light enough for you due to less friction. It has been a long time since I did mine. I hope I remembered right and it helps you out.


Thanks Glassman.

The only screw I found on this one was the one holding the safety on.  I tried to take it all the way out but it wouldn't come, and I didn't want to force anything.

I then tried to tap the pin out, but it wouldn't budge either.

I did find that by taking the bolt out of the gun and holding the trigger back, I was able to acheive a little bit more room to work with, but still not enough for fully polish the two edge successfully.

Any ideas?


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## Glassman (Jan 31, 2007)

The pin is going to be hard to get out, but it will come. It has to to remove the trigger. The screw holding the safety on is also holding the sear in place.

It may take a little more than a tap to remove that pin due to the intimate contact between the two surfaces.

As for the screw, it may have some sort of keeper or shoulder hanging up.

If I had it in my hands I could tell you more. Can you find an exploded view of it so you can see exactly what is in there? I think you can find one for almost any gun on Midway's website.

If it was mine, I would take a pair of vise-grips and clamp the two halves of the trigger mounting bracket together at the bottom so the can't spread and give that pin a good whack with a punch pin and a light mallet.

Sorry I can't be of more help.


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## Handgunner (Jan 31, 2007)

Here are the schematics on it...
Glenfield 25

You'll have to click on it to get it bigger, then scroll.

And don't worry about "not being able to help more".. You're only able to do so much over a computer.  I'm thankful for what you've contributed so far.

So, thank YOU.


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## Glassman (Jan 31, 2007)

Once that pin is removed, everything else should come right out. Be careful not to lose the spring between the trigger and sear.

The pin is the key. Any gunsmith I know would knock it out.

Thank you.


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## Handgunner (Jan 31, 2007)

Glassman said:


> Once that pin is removed, everything else should come right out. Be careful not to lose the spring between the trigger and sear.
> 
> The pin is the key. Any gunsmith I know would knock it out.
> 
> Thank you.


I'll try it again tonight with a little more force.... 

Thanks!


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## Glassman (Jan 31, 2007)

Be sure to clamp the sides together, if they spread a little it will put the pin in a bind.

Good luck to you.


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## Gun Docc (Jan 31, 2007)

Delton,

on most of the cheaper models of guns like this one as well as other models ,sometimes the pins are "staked" in place to deter tampering or working out of place

Simple solution is to "mill" the pin staking flush with the sides of the bracket to easily remove the pin with very minor force from a pin punch and hand pressure so as not to ruin parts

then after making the required honing/polishing adjustments to the sears(be sure not to change the angles too drasticly or you will be replacing parts)

 Simply replace the pin with the appropriate sized "New" pin and stake it back into place(a new pin will be longer so as to enable peening(staking)to enlarge the ends locking it into place

be careful here as the old saying goes ----if it ain't broke why fix it applies


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## GA1dad (Jan 31, 2007)

Good stuff!!! Learn'n  somethin' every day.


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## Handgunner (Feb 1, 2007)

Thanks Glassman and Curtis,

The pin is braded at the ends so as not to allow it's removal without force.  I'll break out the dremel and fix that. 

I'll let y'all know how well it goes...

A rifle just shouldn't have a heavy trigger.  Period.


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## Glassman (Feb 1, 2007)

Now that I look at the pic closer, I see the way the pin is bradded.

It must be an older rifle, all I have seen have screws in 'em.

You learn something new every day.


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