# Southeastern Style Arrow



## Nicodemus

This is gonna take awhile, so bear with me till I get all the writin` and picture postin` done.

Dried rivercane, about 4 1\2 feet long.

Second pic is heatin` the crooked section between joints  prior to straightenin`. Get it purty hot, but don`t scorch it. This can also be done with coals raked out of the fire, but it`s too hot to be settin` over a fire today, so I`m cheatin`.

3rd pic is applyin` pressure to the heated crooked section usin` the knee. Be careful and don`t crinkle or crush the cane. You can feel it bend, but only experience will tell you when to quit. Do this on each section from one end to the other. Heat and straighten one section at a time.

4th pic is all the sections straight. The joints have not been fooled with yet, and the shaft is actually more crooked than it was when you started. Don`t walk off scratchin` your head, it`s gonna get straight when you do the joints.

5th pic is heatin` the joints for straigtenin` . Be careful here, the heated joint will break easier than the sections will.


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## Nicodemus

The shaft is gettin` straight now in this first pic. A little extra attention to the areas that ain`t quite right will get it perfect.

2nd pic, I`m scrapin` the joints smooth with a flint flake. a knife can be used as well. It can be finished with either sandstone or sandpaper.

3rd pic is the nock. It is important to cut this nock so that the bowstring rests up against the solid part of the joint for strength. Make sure to leave no sharp edges on this self-nock or it will cut the bowstring. This is the small end of the shaft. The point will go on the big end.

4th pic is wild turkey tailfeathers that will be cut and trimmed for fletchins`.

5th pic is the feathers cut to shape. Cut them identical with both outside parts of the feather the same way.


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## Nicodemus

Make sure to leave a section of quill on the fletchin`. This will be glued and sinew wrapped on the shaft.

2nd pic is the back of the fletchins` glued to the shaft. Glue these as shown exactly, on the side.

3rd pic is a very fine, thin piece deer backstrap sinew that will be wet and wrapped around the fletchins`.

4th pic is wrappin` the sinew around the glued fletchins`.

5th pic is the finished back section of the fletchins`.


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## Nicodemus

1st  pic is the front of the fletchins glued in place. Attach these on TOP of the shaft 1\4 way around the shaft from where the back ends were attached.

2nd pic is sinew wrapped. It is VERY IMPORTANT that this front section makes as smooth a transition as possible. Take extra care to do this.  Make sure the front part of the quill is smoothed down to almost nothin`. If you don`t, when this part of the arrow passes over your thumb when shot, it will gouge out a really nice chunk of meat and skin. In addition to throwin` the arrow off its target, this is gonna hurt.........a lot. Plus you`re gonna bleed all over your nice bow.

3rd pic is the point sinew hafted and sinew wrapped in place. This is a 
  point from my replicated collection, that I made, so I just used it as an example, since I don`t have a point to my likin` ready. On a point that I will be settin` on there permanent, I will glue it in place first. I personally like to haft the point so that at full draw the point is straight up and down, instead of flat to the ground. I don`t reckon it really matters though.

Here is the completed arrow in the 4th pic.


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## Nicodemus

Here is an arrow with a hardwood foreshafted point set in the rivercane shaft.

2nd pic is the union where the foreshaft joins with the rivercane shaft. All is sinew wrapped, although it doesn`t have to be.

3rd pic is the completed section.


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## Hoss

Great looking arrow and lesson in how to do it.  Great series showing us how it's done.  So just how long did this entire process take?  

Hoss


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## Nicodemus

Although this can be done entirely with modern tools, it can also be done with stone age tools, in a primitive settin`, if desired. Arrow makin` is an art that is a fine way to pass the time settin` around a fire at night.  

A special thanks to my Friend, Ben Kirkland, for teachin` this to me years ago. This is a technique that he learned and passed on to me.

Hoss, I figure around 45 minutes or more, just to work the shaft. That`s why I care more about it than I do the point. I can make the point so much faster, and with less aggravation than actually makin` the shaft.


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## dutchman

Thanks Nick for taking the time to do this and photograph it along the way. I see you didn't have any helpers around to hold the arrow for you to make the picture.


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## DCHunter

Very neat! I've always wanted to see how this was done. Is this how the natives did it? or does anyone really know exactly how they did it?


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## Nicodemus

Dutch, when I take an arrow makin` spell, everybody runs for the hills for some unknown reason?!    Something about too much concentration on gettin` em straight, grouchiness, and not wantin` to carry on a conversation?  Just reputation I guess, I`m harmless!  

DC Hunter, this is how the Indians of the Southeast made their arrows, although some of the shafts might be 4 feet long, longer than the arrows that I generally make. The way the feathers are cut and attached to the shaft, makes it look like a 4 fletch, but in reality, it`s just a 2 fletch. They do make for a stable arrow flight though, and are easier (for me) to make than the Plains style 3 fletch. You can also make them into a flu-flu arrow by not trimmin` the excess off the feathers.

What`s funny, is when I`m at rondyvoos and Indian festivals with them, folks oooh and aaaaw over the purty "toys". These thangs ain`t toys, they`re deadly.


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## ramsey

Now that's interesting, informative, and took a great deal of your time to post for other members. Might be the best post I've seen on this board. thanks Nick


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## Hoss

So when your arrow making, you mean the kinder, gentler Nic is on vacation?
If you hunt with em, I guess you really want to make em count cause if you loose em, a lot of effort down the drain.

Hoss


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## Nicodemus

Very true Hoss! Specially on the effort to make them. If you`re in a tight spot, a bent limb will make a temporary servicable bow, but if the arrows ain`t right, the best bow out there won`t fling em worth a hoot.


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## bam_bam

sweet looking arrows nic, arrow makin makes me grumpy also too much concentration involved.


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## Sixes

WOW, You are a man of talent.

Now, whip me up a Atlatl with a slate bannerstone and a Hardin tipped arrow.


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## Southbow

Great tutorial Nick. Thanks for taking the time to write it up.

I cut about two dozen river cane shafts this morning after the hogs got done making me look stupid.

chris


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## Nicodemus

Thanks ya`ll!

Sixes, I already have an atlatl around here somewhere, and a Hardin  won`t be no trouble. That slate bannerstone though, that`s gonna take awhile!!! 

Southbow, were you blackpowderin` or bowhuntin`?


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## Researcher31726

Aw right, Nic! Thanks for the lesson!
Sue


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## Al33

As usual and to be expected, Great job Nic! Thanks!!!


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## fflintlock

Thanks Nic !
I've been wanting to make some, now I have no excuse LOL
Great job on the tutorial, them photos are what really helps.
Jerald


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## Nicodemus

Footnote-

Some of the raw materials can be substituted. Dental floss can be used if you don`t have any sinew, and various storebought glues can also be used if no hoof glue or pine pitch glue is available. Fair size tail feathers from any legal bird can be used in place of turkey feathers. Due to the curve in them, primary and secondary wing feathers don`t seem to do as well with the two fletch, at least they don`t to me.

Once straightened, rivercane arrows will stay straight if they are stored proper.

All the material on these arrows can be found in the woods.


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## Nicodemus

I went ahead and chipped a point out of raw Early County Coastal Plains chert a few minutes ago, and hafted it on a black cherry foreshaft with pitch glue and deer sinew. On points that I know will be hunted with, I purposely keep the notches shallow, so as not to create a weak spot on the point. The only place it has been ground is across the bottom of the base, and inside the notches. Every where else is like a razor. I also re-enforced the end of the shaft where the foreshaft fits with deer sinew. I then gave all the sinew wrappins` on the arrow a light coatin` of hoof glue. When this dries, the arrow will be ready for service. All it needs now is some deer blood on it.


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## ejs1980

nic what kind of penetration do you get with your points and whats the effective range? Also could you use bamboo? And fore the last question why use a foreshaft?
                  Good looking arrows


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## Nicodemus

Usin` a 50 to 60 pound bow, chances are likely you won`t get a complete pass thru on a deer, but it doesn`t matter. Every move it makes, the arrow moves and does some serious cuttin` inside. Effective range would be whatever you`re comfortable. As for the foreshaft, I like it because it is stronger than the hollow rivercane and makes the haftin` area stronger. 

I`ve never used bamboo, but some of the other Abos on here probably have, and will answer that for you.


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## swampstalker

WOW! Nick,
Thanks so much for posting this tutorial. This will help me tremendously in manufacturing cane arrows. I already have the flintknapping down, but the cane arrow with foreshaft insert is gonna take some time to get right. I know it took a while to write all this down and it was greatly appreciated! I will send a picture of a finished arrow as soon as I get one right.
Southbow, No hogs?  Your a pretty deadly stalker; must have been the swirling winds again? Hunting pigs with a stick bow is challenging but very addictive, sorta like flintknapping huh?


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## ejs1980

Thanks for the info nic. When is the next indian festival or craf show you'll br at in south ga


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## Nicodemus

I`ll be at Kolomoki State Park for their Indian Festival the second Saturday in October, Chehaw Indian Festival in Albany, the third weekend in November, and the Chehaw rondyvoo the second weekend in January. Drop by and give me a holler.


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## Southbow

Nic,
We were bowhunting the hogs. The guy with me shot over the back of a small one. His first shot with traditional gear. 

Later we saw 5 or 6 in a row of thinned pines, moved over one row and started up it, saw another hog in that row so we moved over one more row. Eased up til I thought I was close and they were gone. It was one of those "sure thing" setups that never turn out to be a sure thing! Still lots of fun.

chris


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## choctawlb

I shot about a 90 lb. boar a couple weeks ago at 12 yards with one of these 2 fletch cane arrows , a knapped point, and a 60# pull osage bow. I hit about 2 inches behind the front shoulder on a broadside shot , and the arrow penetrated up to the feathers with a 28" arrow. The pig ran through a small break of cane and you could hear the arrow shaft hit every piece. Through all of that abuse, the arrow did nit break or come out. They are tough for sure.
Ken


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## drhunter1

I saw a program on TV (can't remember if it was outdoor channel or PBS) but the guy was making a similar arrow but used a handmade wooden insert for both ends. He also used 3 feathers glued with animal protein glue and tied with sinew string. It was very similar to the method that you used.


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## Jake Allen

From the archives, for folks who have never had the pleasure.

Nick, you are a talented man!


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## ky_longbow

good stuff right there ! interesting.
 and man what a pile of antlers in the back ground......


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## hogdgz

Awesome, hopefully one day I can attempt it!


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## pine nut

What a nice presentation of art.  I have read books about primative man and how the nappers and weapons makers were respected and revered.  You make it easy to see why.  I have some canes I cut two years ago and I'm still wanting to get the time to work with them to make an attempt at what you have done.  Truly great work Sir!  Bill


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## Tailfeather

This is great.....I'm trying to soak it all in.  Just getting started with learning these crafts.  Got some sinew and cut cane in the barn.  And some flintknapping materials/supplies coming for Christmas.

Thanks.....


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## Necedah

This is great stuff Nic! Thanks for sharing. I printed it out , and I'm going to do it. Primitive is where it's at. 

Dave


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## Tailfeather

Have a few questions.....

Do you glue the entire length of the fletching or just the front and back ends?

Also....how important is it to have the head set just before a node?  If its crucial, seems like getting several arrows approximately the same length would be a challenge?

In the absence of a traditional glue, would a wood glue suffice?

Thanks!


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## Nicodemus

Tailfeather said:


> Have a few questions.....
> 
> Do you glue the entire length of the fletching or just the front and back ends?
> 
> Also....how important is it to have the head set just before a node?  If its crucial, seems like getting several arrows approximately the same length would be a challenge?
> 
> In the absence of a traditional glue, would a wood glue suffice?
> 
> Thanks!





I just glue the fletchin` at the front and back. Then sinew wrap it. 

You can insert a hardwood shaft inside the cane, and let it rest up against the node. 


Wood glue will work, till you can make you some proper glue.   I prefer pine pitch glue over hoof glue, because of the humidity around here.


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## Rocky Mtn Johnboy

That was awesome Nic.  I glad you are teaching these to people.  Does anyone know where I can get a batch of rivercane.  My friend wants to make arrows for his atlatl?


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## Nicodemus

Check your creeks bottoms, branches, and river swamps, and you`ll find it in abundance. River cane loves damp places. Lots of times, you can see it from the road when you cross bridges.


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## Tailfeather

Cut a batch this evening......As an aside, it also makes a fine turkey yelper.  But that's probably another thread.

Btw, I looked up the pitch glue "recipe".


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## stansknives

*River Cane Arrows*

Hey Nicodemus, GREAT job. Stan from BAMA here. I do use a hardwood insert in my cane at both ends. You can not see them as they are inside the cane resting against the node. I will try to post pics of 10 I made for my hunting this fall and also a handmade deerskin quiver I made for them also.


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## stansknives

Nevermind guys, I figured it out. Havent been on here in a long time. Stan Payne


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## TNGIRL

Stan, those are MOST impressive!!!!!! I know the work that you put into those beauties!!!!!! And the quiver is a really nice addition to carry those deadly arras!!!!
Thanks to JakeAllen for bringing this thread back around.....always have people (like me) that hadn't seen it the first time.


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## stansknives

*Cane Arrows*

Thanks for the reply. If you look at the arrow on the left, the point is made from Buffalo River chert from Tenn. I shot that arrow at a Bobcat 2 weeks ago with a NEAR miss under his belly almost sticking him to the ground! It sunk in the earth 8 inches and never loosened OR chipped the point! Its still like brand new! Stan Payne


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## stansknives

*Cane Arrows*

I shoot a 62 pound Osage bow with a 28 inch draw. I traded one of my stone knives for it to a seller I met on E-Bay. Check out my website at www.flintstoneandbonecreations.com  Stan Payne


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## stansknives

Also, if you click on the knife pictures, they will enlarge to show detail. Stan


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## SELFBOW

Thanks Nic, this is the one I was looking for.
My question now is Why do you put in the hardwood inserts and why is so much sticking out the end?


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## LongBow01

the ends of cane arras bust when shot if you put the hardwood inserts in them they will hold up alot longer. I have made several cane arras without the inserts and all of the ends busted after the first shot or two. havent made any with inserts yet but i will be using hardwood inserts on my next batch for sure!


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## LongBow01

I was just lookin at this thread again for some motivation to build some arras out of my batch of cane that i cut back last november. I thought it deserved to back up top thanks again Nicodemus


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## YankeeRedneck

This is very cool!!


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## HALOJmpr

Nic never fails to impress .... even in replay mode !


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## blocky

I know this is an old thread but I have some questions for Nicodemus. Do you match your canes by diameter? Do you match them by weight? Would smaller dia cane be better for low poundage bows? In other words, how do you select or tune them? Can you knapp heads that are very close in weight so the arrows fly the same?
I have cut some and put them up for drying so I can make a few arrows. Been reading all I can find about how to make them so I am full of questions. I would be very appreciative for any help you can give.


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## Mr Bya Lungshot

Yep, bump time so I can find this one again.


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## godogs57

Beautiful work Nick....don't know if I ever showed you, but I have two "tools" from way long ago that were used on shafts....

Have a Merry Christmas! and lets pray for no more rain!


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## dtala

nice tutorial Nick.

I've made and used cane arrows for many years, esp hog hunting. The only shaft more bullet proof is hickory.


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## AllAmerican

That was great


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## QuackAddict

Very cool. Good job Nic.


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## blood on the ground

What a great thread!


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## The Hobbit

Nicodemus said:


> This is gonna take awhile, so bear with me till I get all the writin` and picture postin` done.
> 
> Dried rivercane, about 4 1\2 feet long.
> 
> Second pic is heatin` the crooked section between joints  prior to straightenin`. Get it purty hot, but don`t scorch it. This can also be done with coals raked out of the fire, but it`s too hot to be settin` over a fire today, so I`m cheatin`.
> 
> 3rd pic is applyin` pressure to the heated crooked section usin` the knee. Be careful and don`t crinkle or crush the cane. You can feel it bend, but only experience will tell you when to quit. Do this on each section from one end to the other. Heat and straighten one section at a time.
> 
> 4th pic is all the sections straight. The joints have not been fooled with yet, and the shaft is actually more crooked than it was when you started. Don`t walk off scratchin` your head, it`s gonna get straight when you do the joints.
> 
> 5th pic is heatin` the joints for straigtenin` . Be careful here, the heated joint will break easier than the sections will.



Can I find some of this cane up around Seminole? I can't find any down here in Tallahassee.


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## Nicodemus

The Hobbit said:


> Can I find some of this cane up around Seminole? I can't find any down here in Tallahassee.




Yes, it grows around low areas often close to water.


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