# Home made camo paint job



## Triggerfinger_4 (Feb 14, 2015)

Who has given their turkey killer a make over? Rattle can, tape, or dipped let's see them!


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## cpowel10 (Feb 14, 2015)

I painted a 870 a few years ago and took pics along the way. Primer, rattle can, paint brush and then several coats of clear.


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## chrmayo (Feb 14, 2015)

Love looking at camo painted stuff. No jobs are the same is the beauty of it.


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## Triggerfinger_4 (Feb 15, 2015)

I'm about to paint my 870. When I first saw that paint job I thought it was factory painted bottomland. Awesome job.


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## Pneumothorax (Feb 21, 2015)

*Not really "custom" or "home made" but...*

I just camo'd my all black Win 1300 with a pre-cut gun skin kit from Mossy Oak Graphics.

It killed turkeys just fine all black so it obviously wasn't necessary.  But...the kit didn't cost much so I figured why not.  And it's easy enough to remove if I choose to.


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## GLS (Feb 21, 2015)

Rattle-canned Baikal MP-18 single-shot 20 gauge:


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## Nicodemus (Feb 21, 2015)

....


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## grouperdawg (Feb 21, 2015)

cpowel10 said:


> I painted a 870 a few years ago and took pics along the way. Primer, rattle can, paint brush and then several coats of clear.



Wow...that's impressive


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## MesquiteHeat (Feb 22, 2015)

...


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## Luke.Deer.Commander (Feb 23, 2015)

I took a beautiful Beretta A390 Gold Mallard and made it look like this with some camo non-adhesive wrap.


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## blong (Feb 23, 2015)

http://forum.gon.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=775141&stc=1&d=1392072048


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## Triggerfinger_4 (Feb 23, 2015)

870


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## White Stag (Feb 25, 2015)

Hand painted this one a year ago...H&R Pardner Pump.


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## sticknstring (Feb 26, 2015)

Nice job! I recognize that tree.


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## Timber1 (Mar 1, 2015)

Powerflex wrap.


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## FootLongDawg (Mar 1, 2015)

Mossy oak wrap.  Nothing against painting or dipping, but a wrap gives you the option to go back to original.


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## thc_clubPres (Mar 1, 2015)

nice job



White Stag said:


> Hand painted this one a year ago...H&R Pardner Pump.


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## amc5 (Mar 9, 2016)

Just did mine. Lot of time painting with can and brush.


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## QuackAddict (Mar 9, 2016)

amc5 said:


> Just did mine. Lot of time painting with can and brush.



Looks real good. I don't think mine would turn out that nice with my painting skills.


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## GLS (Mar 9, 2016)

I found an online discussion from an auto paint-body shop man who gives great advice on rattle-can painting.  The big points are attention to preparation and allowing the paint to cure for at least a month (if you can) before use.  Here’s what he had to say:
"Thanks for answering my question and I'll explain why I asked you. I'm a bodyman/painter by trade, I've been doing it for about 20 years. I've mainly made my living doing custom work like airbrushing, handlettering, pinstriping and graffics. Bikes, brain buckets, boats, etc. I experimented A LOT with different types of paints over the years for different types of appilcations. I'm telling this about myself so you don't think I'm some Joe-Blow giving bad advise about paint, which I see plenty of on this forum. So when ever I see someone having a paint related problem, I usually like to chime in and give my two bits.

I've never used Rustoluim BBQ paint myself, but what happened to your paint job I don't really think can be blamed on the paint itself. I'm assuming that the BBQ paint is probably an enamel based product and when it was fully dried it would have stood up to giving it a quick wipe down with oil. I think you just did it too soon, the oil started breaking down the paint and interrupted the drying/curing process. That's probably why it continued to leave black on your hands for days after.

I'll give you guys a little painting 101. There basically two types of paint out there, one-part and two-part paints. One part-paint is a paint that dries through evaporation; the one-part means there is nothing to add to it, the one-part is the paint itself. Two-part paints cure through a chemical reaction, they have to have an activator(also known as hardener or catalyst) to make them cure. The first-part is the paint and the second-part is the activator. One-part and two-parts apply to all paints weather it is latex, laquer, enamels, urethanes or epoxys. Two-part paints with be more durable in the long run and will be highly solvent resistant compared to one-part paints. Notice I said one dries and one cures...

But not everyone wants or is going to spray two part-paints, esp when spray bombs are quick, easy and cheap. But I'll give you guys a few pointers to make spray bomb paint fairly durable. 

I noticed a few people were saying that Rusty brand BBQ scratches easily and flakes off. I'm guessing people are spraying it over bare metal, even if the directions say you can, it's probably not a good idea. As far a I know, there is no true DTM(direct to metal) paint on the market in a spray can. You have to get into two-part paints for a true DTM paint, even then it's not always 100% it's not going to flake off. Check out local auto-body supply stores and look for metal-etching primer in the spray can, it's usually farily cheap and it goes a long way.

Here are some simple steps to make sure your paint job will turn out great.

1-Degrease. Do this as many times as nessecary, also never let the degreaser dry. Wipe the excess off or blow off with compressed air.
2- Scuff/sand areas really well.
3-Blow off with compressed air; if you don't have an air compressor, compressed air in a can works very well(the stuff from computer stores).
4-Tack surface
5-Etch prime all bare metal.
6-Spray paint according to diections.
7-Let it become dry to the touch.

The last step is the hardest step of all, but simply put...KEEP YOUR HANDS OFF IT FOR 2-3 WEEKS, even better a month. I know this part is espially hard when you just got done building your new gun. Even two-part paints take 3-4 weeks to FULLY cure. I like to paint snowmobile hoods during the summer and bike tanks during the winter, it gives the paint time to fully cure and give the customer their moneys worth. But it is the hardest thing to get through to my customers; when it gets all nice and warm, that's when everyone wants their bikes painted."


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## Triggerfinger_4 (Mar 9, 2016)

Thanks for that  info GLS! I should have read that before I painted my gun!


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## GLS (Mar 9, 2016)

The paint didn't stick well to my gun when I first painted it.  I sanded off the paint and did it right the second time.  Automotive etching primer is the key on metal parts.  One of the nice features of DIY rattle-can paint jobs is that dings are easily repaired.  My first gun is 4 years into the hunt after painting and the paint has held up well without need for touch ups. A buddy has that gun. On my second Baikal, I  used Duracoat's "shake and spray" two part paint which didn't need a primer coat.  I followed the instructions by the mfg. and didn't handle the gun for a month afterwards.  The Dark Earth Green color is on the metal parts and the stock and forend were left unpainted.
PS:TF4, your gun looks great!






 Gil


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## Toddmann (Mar 9, 2016)

Great advice Gil. I used brake cleaner to clean my metal and windex to clean the wood. Sanded the wood just a little then painted everything in Automotive primer and then let it sit out in the sun to get hot and sort of bake on, then sprayed it the colors I wanted and put 3 coates of matte clear coat. Hopefully it will last.


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## amc5 (Mar 9, 2016)

QuackAddict said:


> Looks real good. I don't think mine would turn out that nice with my painting skills.



Thanks. You just gotta give it a try! I wish I used smaller paintbrushes. But, now I know. Onto the next one.


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## GLS (Mar 10, 2016)

Here's another diy rattle can job. (As has been noted above, no two home paint jobs are ever identical.) A friend and his young sons used the "sponge" technique to paint.  After laying down a base pattern with some random darker spray painted "stripes", bits of sponges are dipped onto some wet paint sprayed on a disposable surface.  The paint-wetted sponge bits are then stamped onto the gun in random patterns--dark paint in light areas and vice versa.  My buddy and his sons enjoyed this "togetherness" project of painting it several years ago and all three have killed birds with the gun.  The dad now uses it as his preferred gun often leaving his SBE home in favor of the lighter Baikal 20.


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## Slings and Arrows (Mar 13, 2016)

I painted poison ivy on my SBE to match half the spots I set up on.  Note the brown hand print from when my son was four years old.


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## tpole (Mar 14, 2016)

One painted, one dipped, one a little of both.


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## getaff (Jun 6, 2016)

What is the best paint to use for a gun painting project?


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## nick_o_demus (Jun 7, 2016)

Wish I could show off my 20 gauge 870 that I just had ceracoated OD green with its pretty new nutmeg Boyds thumbhole stock... But the website said it would take 5-7 days to manufacture, then their customer service said 10-14 days, then their automated email service said please allow 2-3 more weeks because of a plant expansion... Hope I get it in time for next turkey season... It's been a month and a half already.


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## Toddmann (Jun 7, 2016)

I used automobile primer the just used the Matte finish camo colors at Walmart. With the stencil I bought plus 4 cans of paint and 1 can of Matte clear coat, I have $25 in it.


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## Triggerfinger_4 (Jul 4, 2016)

Nick I saw your post. That stock is beautiful!!


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## 1776Flintlock (Jul 4, 2016)

Very nice!


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## Triggerfinger_4 (Jul 5, 2016)

Toddmann said:


> I used automobile primer the just used the Matte finish camo colors at Walmart. With the stencil I bought plus 4 cans of paint and 1 can of Matte clear coat, I have $25 in it.


That's a bad lookin setup there!


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