# 10 HP Electric Jon Boat Build



## WranglerSS (Jun 14, 2011)

I do a lot of fishing on Lathem which is an electric only lake near Ball Ground. It is 373 acres so it takes about a half hour to get from the ramp to the upper lake at 4 mph with both trolling motors on high. So I decided it was time for a different approach.

I started with a 1957 Johnson 10 hp outboard that was given to me for free. Pulled the powerhead and fabbed up a bracket to mount a 10 hp permanent magnet motor. 

This what the motor will look like once it is painted back original. Currently it is camo.






Here is the motor.





Here is a short video at 36 volts doing 6.7 mph.


Once I get the digital controller and heavier gauge wiring I will have 48 volts and hopefully 8+ mph.


----------



## Troutman3000 (Jun 14, 2011)

How long can you run it wide open like that?


----------



## WranglerSS (Jun 14, 2011)

Wide open I can get around 1.5 hours.


----------



## Money man (Jun 14, 2011)

Awesome!!! I love these home made projects. I was in the process of building one myself a few years ago when I happened across the B&S sell of of old/new stock motors on their Ebay store. 

So, now tat you have done it, let's talk. We need to see the guts of it! Can you take some pics under the cowl? Are you thinking of grabbing a curtis controller off of a golf cart or something a little more simple?


----------



## WranglerSS (Jun 14, 2011)

I started of with a resistor coil form an old golf cart but it is only good up to 36 volts so I have a Curtis controller I bought off eBay. I also purchased a Fourthgen speed throttle but it is in transit.

Here is a pic of the jack plate I made so I could get the prop deeper to stop slippage.






Here are a couple inside the cowl.










Here is the stick steer setup with some brackets I fabbed.





















And finally here is a pic of the boat. It's a 16' mod v. Not bad speed for a big boat.


----------



## Money man (Jun 14, 2011)

That looks like some great work. I appreciate you sharing the pics. 

Hey, on this Briggs electric, they included a small fan to help vent the heat coming from the motor on long runs. I imagine it might not be a bad idea to look at something similar in your cowl also if you wanted to make sure to protect your investment. I figure there was a reason they did it so just an FYI. 

They vent computers and other electrical components so might be worth considering for your motor also. Although I am unaware of any fans used in golf cart motors. Mind if I ask where you got the motor or a parts number for it? A 10hp motor should be smokin out on the lake with 48 volts pushing it or if you had a controller that could handle 72 volts you might pull a skier behind it. 

The Briggs only has a 3hp motor (so it says). I have considered replacing it out with a larger motor if this one gives up the ghost. I hope it doesn't but if it did, I would have to go bigger just because I can. 

Be sure to post up progress on your controller install. There are ways to program those controllers so you might have to make sure you have it programmed properly to match what you are using the motor for. The last thing you want it to do is controlled breaking if the accelerator is not being pushed like on a golf cart.


----------



## WranglerSS (Jun 14, 2011)

The Curtis I have is for a pump so there is no braking lug.


----------



## Money man (Jun 14, 2011)

Hey I forgot to ask. How did you connect your motor shaft to your prop shaft? I have heard of people welding a heavy duty socket on one end and a heavy duty nut on the other while others have fabbed up a bolt together bracket. that fits male/female.


----------



## Reminex (Jun 14, 2011)

Money man said:


> The Briggs only has a 3hp motor (so it says).



I believe the etek motor has more output and can actually  run in 60 volts, I think its the contoller that limits it.  I would toy around with mine if I could risk messing it up...maybe this winter!!


----------



## Money man (Jun 14, 2011)

Reminex said:


> I believe the etek motor has more output and can actually  run in 60 volts, I think its the contoller that limits it.  I would toy around with mine if I could risk messing it up...maybe this winter!!



Yeah, that's the problem I am facing. I hate to break it when it is working so well and truth be told, I don't have any more room in my current boat for any more batteries without sinking it. I have 6 in there as it is.


----------



## Fletch_W (Jun 14, 2011)

That's awesome. I saw a guy at Bear Creek week before last, I thought it was the DNR but was some older outboard motor with a similar modification. The guy had just put in and was tearing off to fish, so I didn't want to stop him and ask questions, not that I could have caught up with him anyway. 

With a true flat-bottom, and some careful arranging of weight, maybe a 12 or 14 boat, do you think you could get it to plane and pick the speed up that way?


----------



## BradMyers (Jun 14, 2011)

Awesome project WranglerSS, this will be a fun thread to watch. Again thanks for sharing. BTW don't take it to Horton in Fayette co. them water police gave one guy holy grief about his Ray electric and wanted to write him up for having a gas motor.


----------



## Chris at Tech (Jun 14, 2011)

So you're gonna leave the original casing on it?  I hope you'll be able to crack it open easily to prove to the DNR that it isn't a gas motor


----------



## CAL (Jun 14, 2011)

Awesome project. Would it be feasible to have a generator to provide the current for the electric motor.You still wouldn't have a gas engine?????


----------



## Bugpac (Jun 14, 2011)

CAL said:


> Awesome project. Would it be feasible to have a generator to provide the current for the electric motor.You still wouldn't have a gas engine?????



Propane, all the signs i see say no gasoline engines. 

Nice project, i have debated this for some time. I wouldnt run a cooling fan myself, i would make a heat sink from alum that pressed on the motor housing and cooled with water off the oem water pump. That was always how i thought i would do it. I would even consider water cooling the speed controller as well..


----------



## WranglerSS (Jun 14, 2011)

I've already been called in to the County twice the few times I've had it out, but the manger of the Resevoir knows about my build and thinks it's cool. When I paint it and put the original decals back on I plan on putting 48 volts instead of 10 horsepower. 

Fletch - I'm in the process of moving the batteries to the front of the boat now cause I can gain almost 1 mph just by standing at the bow. Four series 29 and 2 Series 27 batteries at the front will almost put me on plane sitting still.

Chris - If you notice in one of the pics the cowl is hinged so I can open easily.

CAL - A generator in that fashion would be perpetual motion and I haven't perfected that just yet.


----------



## WranglerSS (Jun 14, 2011)

Bug - I removed the water pump to reduce friction on the shaft. At 48 volts it is a continuous duty motor.

Money - To connect the drive shaft to the motor shaft I took an old Dana 44 axle shaft and cut a 2" piece and drilled 1/2" all the through it and then 7/8" half way then welded it together as a coupler.


----------



## Money man (Jun 14, 2011)

Good deal, mind sourcing the motor for me? where did ya get it, what kind is it? If you readily know the answer, if not, no biggie. Just curious.


----------



## Money man (Jun 14, 2011)

WranglerSS said:


> Money - To connect the drive shaft to the motor shaft I took an old Dana 44 axle shaft and cut a 2" piece and drilled 1/2" all the through it and then 7/8" half way then welded it together as a coupler.



This sounds like a good plan. Did you take any pics of this during the construction? I ask because people are looking for help on this kind of build all over the internet. 

Of course, you might feel the same about posting pics of constructing an electric motor as some do about river fishing for stripers.


----------



## bpoulin (Jun 14, 2011)

WranglerSS said:


> CAL - A generator in that fashion would be perpetual motion and I haven't perfected that just yet.



I think he was trying to say a gas generator to give you power. Not perpetual motion, gas powering the generator giving you 110v, and you can get an industrial strength electric motor. Like a compressor motor or similar.  I'm guessin a gas generator would be less weight than 4 marine batteries.


----------



## WranglerSS (Jun 15, 2011)

Money - The motor is called a Manta which is a knock-off Briggs Etek motor and I got it off eBay. I didn't take any pics of the drive shaft assembly. 

bpoulin - A gas generator would defeat the purpose of the build. Where I fish no gas motors are allowed.


----------



## Money man (Jun 15, 2011)

OK, after watching the video of this electric motor pulling a skier I found on this website selling electric outboards, I suddenly feel under powered.  

http://www.aquawatt.at/en/electric-outboards.php


----------



## CAL (Jun 15, 2011)

Wrangler have you considered changing the prop for more speed?Just asking!

A gas generator to power an outboard would be splitting hairs I guess.Was just a thought.You wouldn't be running a gas outboard but an electric one powered by a gas generator!


----------



## Money man (Jun 15, 2011)

Hey wrangler, I will also mention that the B&S motor has a circle cone around the prop that is supposed to help with efficiency. Just a thought since you are a fabricator.


----------



## WranglerSS (Jun 15, 2011)

CAL - I have changed the prop to a 10" pitch which gave me an increase of 1 mph at 36 volts. The problem with the gas generator is one of the rules is no gas tank. I'm even running Bio gear oil in the foot.

Money - I've looked at the Prop ring thing. May fab one up to see if it really makes a difference once I get everything rewired with 2/0 and the controller in place.


----------



## CAL (Jun 15, 2011)

I understand Wrangler.They have just about covered every angle there is looks like to me.Next they will limit the amount of batteries you can have.


----------



## Reminex (Jun 15, 2011)

The lakes use to have a no gas or no hydrocarbon rule.  That left the door wide open for propane!  Now many have rules that say electric only.


----------



## rockdawg (Jun 15, 2011)

Hey Wrangler, the prop ring you're talking about is called a Kort Nozzle.
This is a great thread! I've been wanting to make an electric outboard for a while now.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kort_nozzle


----------



## Brine (Jun 15, 2011)

Not that I didn't feel dumb about electrical stuff before reading this..... but I can now say with clarity, I have no idea how you did it, but I like it!


----------



## dcrail (Jun 16, 2011)

What kind of RPM'S are you turning at the prop shaft and if you know,what is the gear ratio on the lower unit...been considering this for some time now???BTW,Seems from the things I've read from my research that a Kort nozzle would make a BIG improvement,if not in speed,it will help in efficiency,and thats what it's about when you have a limited power supply!!!!


----------



## WranglerSS (Jun 17, 2011)

The lower unit is 1.7:1 so I should be turning the prop at approximately 2000 rpm. Last night I moved the batteries to the front compartment so I wasn't so heavy in the rear causing it to plow. I also ran most of the wiring and noticed 2/0 wire looks a lot like fuel line so I put a primer bulb on the positive wire going into the cowl. Should make for some interesting looks.


----------



## dcrail (Jun 17, 2011)

Bugpac said:


> Propane, all the signs i see say no gasoline engines.
> 
> Nice project, i have debated this for some time. I wouldnt run a cooling fan myself, i would make a heat sink from alum that pressed on the motor housing and cooled with water off the oem water pump. That was always how i thought i would do it. I would even consider water cooling the speed controller as well..



Personally,I would tend to go the the cooling fan over a cooling coil /heat sink type system using lake water,even if you didn't spring a leak,the condensation from the temp difference might cause problems...As I'm sure you well know,electricity+ water=

Also I believe these motors have a cooling fan on top to help with the cooling although may not be very effective in an enclosure like the motor cowling???

I really like the idea of keeping the original look of the outboard,looks nastalgic and would look great on an older boat from the same era!!

Keep us posted on any updates you have,and let me know if you give rides in that thing when you get her done!!!Should be fun!!!!


----------



## WranglerSS (Jun 17, 2011)

These motors do  have a cooling fan on top of the motor. According to Manta, it is a continuous duty. I think there is enough air flow through the front of the cowling to keep it cool. Otherwise I can just remove the cowling while at WOT.


----------



## Jeepin (Jun 17, 2011)

Primer bulb is by far the icing on the cake!


----------



## Brine (Jun 17, 2011)

Just need a plastic gas can to use as a battery box now


----------



## Reminex (Jun 17, 2011)

I was looking at the manta motor and it says no controller needed.  what is yalls opinion on running without a controller.  would it eat up battery power?  or would it run fast as heck?  Or maybe all on or all off...that would be dangerous!


----------



## WranglerSS (Jun 18, 2011)

I think what they are referring to is making your own wiper style accelerator by going from 12v to 24v to 36v and 48v in stages. A controller is the best way to go in my opinion.


----------



## Bugpac (Jun 18, 2011)

dcrail. Any electrical item is more efficient the cooler it is. I am certain the cooler the motor runs the less amp draw you will pull. And you stick your t motor in the water everytime you fish dont you? 

Anyhow great build. I have seen people generally like to start with 15 hp motors, for the added gear reduction, seems the old game fishers are perfect as the weight of them oem is minimal.


----------



## dcrail (Jun 20, 2011)

Good point Bugpac although not quite as many amps are involve with a troller!!

Wrangler,Are you using a twist throttle from an electric scooter for the speed control,should be a close fit to the outboard tiller????


----------



## Cricket Chunker (Jun 20, 2011)

CAL said:


> Wrangler have you considered changing the prop for more speed?Just asking!
> 
> A gas generator to power an outboard would be splitting hairs I guess.Was just a thought.You wouldn't be running a gas outboard but an electric one powered by a gas generator!



That would make it a hybrid & eco friendly right???  Might even qualify for tax credits


----------



## WranglerSS (Jun 21, 2011)

I'm using a potentiometer so it will work just like a normal throttle lever next to the stick steer.


----------



## WranglerSS (Jun 28, 2011)

Got it running today and taking it to Lathem in the morning. Speed results later in the day.


----------



## dcrail (Jun 29, 2011)

Looking forward to see what kind of speeds and run time you got out of her????BTW,I have a variable/adjustable pitch prop that you could use to tweek it for the best pitch,let me know!!!It is a pin drive prop if it will work???


----------



## WranglerSS (Jul 4, 2011)

It will run 8mph now with the new setup.


----------



## dcrail (Jul 5, 2011)

Impressive!!!!!!!!Bet you get some looks from the DNR or the reservoir cops!!!!!!How long can you run wide open and half throttle with the new upgrades????


----------



## TheJollySkipper (Jun 19, 2013)

Wrangler, I'm dredging up an old thread, but I'm curious how this motor has done over time. I'm experimenting with a couple of outboards right now, and my search found this thread. BTW, this is awesome! Is the Johnson in your profile pic, the electric? I just got a tan Johnson 18hp a few days ago, and was considering doing the same thing, or mounting a 14hp B&S to it...


----------



## WranglerSS (Jun 19, 2013)

The Manta electric motor turned out to be junk so I took it off after it locked up. I will build another one at some point and when I do I will use a larger prop with slower RPM. I think it will provide more speed and longer battery life.


----------



## TheJollySkipper (Jun 19, 2013)

Good to know, THANKS!


----------



## TheJollySkipper (Jun 19, 2013)

What do you think about a 36v or 48v Golf Cart motor?


----------



## 615groundpounder (Jun 20, 2013)

I can't help but think that a real coupling would help you out too.  One that slides on and then a set screw locking it in place.  If you had any misalignment or out of balance with your welding it could throw the motor out.  Not to mention your welding on the motor shaft.  It could have grounded through the windings and messed them up.  Or the heat to the shafts themselves warping them then throwing it out of balance.  Just a few of the problems that I could see with your coupling.  
I enjoyed seeing your build and was hoping it would have worked out for you.  Just giving you somethings to consider for your next try.  Good luck and please post it again.


----------



## WranglerSS (Jun 20, 2013)

Balancing wasn't an issue at all. When I machined the holes in the coupling they were almost a press fit so all I did was tack weld to shafts. I think what killed the motor was two things, heat from running it and weather since it sat outside.


----------

