# Ford 3000 PTO



## JasonF (Dec 28, 2014)

Looking at buying a Ford 3000. The one I looked at today runs and looks good.  The only problem it had was the PTO will not engage when the tractor is running.  When I tried to engage it, the gears would grind.  I can, however, engage the PTO before I start the tractor and it works fine when I fire her up.  Does anyone know what the problem might be here?  Is this a minor fix or an expensive one?


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## The Longhunter (Dec 28, 2014)

Did you have the clutch pedal depressed when you tried to engage the PTO when it was running?


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## JustUs4All (Dec 28, 2014)

x2 clutch must be engaged and, I think fully.  I think it has a live or 2 stage clutch.  Partial depression disengages transmission and full depression disengages PTO.


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## dieselengine9 (Dec 28, 2014)

Don't buy any tractor that isn't 100% when the cash hits the barrelhead unless you're getting a ridiculous deal or you like to tinker.


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## JasonF (Dec 28, 2014)

Yes, clutch pedal was held all the way down when I tried to engage the PTO while the tractor was running.  When the PTO was engaged before start-up then running when the tractor was started, a full clutch pedal depression did not disengage the PTO like the 2 stage clutch should have.  The only way to disengage the PTO was to manually turn it off or turn off the tractor.
My thoughts are that this is either a PTO issue or a clutch issue.


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## JasonF (Dec 28, 2014)

dieselengine9 said:


> Don't buy any tractor that isn't 100% when the cash hits the barrelhead unless you're getting a ridiculous deal or you like to tinker.



It's got a decent price on it and depending on the severity of this issue, it may be worthwhile to get it further discounted as a result with minor cost to repair.  Just trying to weigh my options...


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## NE GA Pappy (Dec 28, 2014)

more than likely that the PTO hasn't been used in quite a while, and the clutch disc has stuck to the pressure plate. You might be able to hook it to some equipment, like a bush hog and let the blade down against the ground. Engage the PTO and then crank the tractor.  If it is the disc stuck, it should break it loose. If it doesn't, you might try working the tractor some with a bush hog, when you hit a terrace or hump, push the clutch in right quick. Maybe with more torque it will break loose.  

If it won't break loose this way, you have to "split" the tractor to change the clutch and pressure plate. Last time I did that, it took about 8 hours of labor.  Depending on where you get it done, ~$ 600 bucks labor and 350 or so in parts.


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## Scrapy (Dec 28, 2014)

NE GA Pappy said:


> more than likely that the PTO hasn't been used in quite a while, and the clutch disc has stuck to the pressure plate. You might be able to hook it to some equipment, like a bush hog and let the blade down against the ground. Engage the PTO and then crank the tractor.  If it is the disc stuck, it should break it loose. If it doesn't, you might try working the tractor some with a bush hog, when you hit a terrace or hump, push the clutch in right quick. Maybe with more torque it will break loose.
> 
> If it won't break loose this way, you have to "split" the tractor to change the clutch and pressure plate. Last time I did that, it took about 8 hours of labor.  Depending on where you get it done, ~$ 600 bucks labor and 350 or so in parts.



This is exactly right. They usually break loose  after getting warmed up. The problem can be exaserbated by a leaky seal on either end of the shafts. hopefully the transmittion end. But that is cheap to repair since the tractor is broke in half anyway. There's an open drain hole under the bell housing. Run your finger over it and if you feel or see oil you might can tell if it's engine oil or hydraulic.

Definitely not a full market price tractor now though.


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## JasonF (Dec 29, 2014)

The tractor with 6' bush hog is $3500 as it stands now. I got a quote to replace the clutch (worst case senario) for $800.


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## Milkman (Dec 29, 2014)

JasonF said:


> The tractor with 6' bush hog is $3500 as it stands now. I got a quote to replace the clutch (worst case senario) for $800.



The value ?????

That would all add up to over $4500 for the tractor and bush hog when you figure hauling the tractor around, etc.

Is it Diesel or Gas ????  Does it start and run good?

What year model ??   Does the lift work good and stay up when you turn off the engine?

Post up a picture if you can


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## JasonF (Dec 29, 2014)

Its a 1975 diesel. Lift works good and everything else is sound and in good running condition. Tires are in great condidtion also. The potential clutch issue should give me more negotiating power to bring that price down if I decide to get it.


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## The Longhunter (Dec 29, 2014)

JasonF said:


> The tractor with 6' bush hog is $3500 as it stands now. I got a quote to replace the clutch (worst case senario) for $800.



If that's all that is wrong with it.

I'd follow the advice above, if it's not working, I'd walk away.

IMO $3500 is too much for a tractor (and bushhog) with a basically inoperable PTO.

You don't say, but once the PTO is engaged, will it disengaged when the clutch is depressed?  If not, you have real safety issue until you get it repaired.


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## Milkman (Dec 29, 2014)

JasonF said:


> Its a 1975 diesel. Lift works good and everything else is sound and in good running condition. Tires are in great condidtion also. The potential clutch issue should give me more negotiating power to bring that price down if I decide to get it.



Tough call on the pricing.

The mower looks to be in new condition. It looks to be a 6 footer. Its probably around $600 + value alone. 

How about you tell the owner they need  to come down $1000_* or *_make the repairs and then you will give him the asking price.

Also depending on what you want to do with the tractor those turf tires may not work for you.  Purchasing regular tires would be another costly venture


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## Scrapy (Dec 29, 2014)

Tractor not beat up. good looking bush hog. No oil leaks. Check lower seal under bushhog also. I'd prefer ag tires for pulling plows. Get him to knock off the $800 and you got a fair deal.


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## Gaducker (Dec 30, 2014)

You sure you didn't miss a lever some where?  My tractor dose the same thing but theres another lever to actually stop and start the pto with.


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## JasonF (Dec 30, 2014)

Gaducker said:


> You sure you didn't miss a lever some where?  My tractor dose the same thing but theres another lever to actually stop and start the pto with.



Yes, I am aware that there is a shifter/lever that turns the PTO on and off.  As I stated, the PTO will not engage when the tractor is running by shifting this lever on...all I got was the sound of grinding gears.  If I turn the tractor off, shift the PTO lever to ON, then start the tractor, the PTO works.  When the tractor is running and the PTO on, the clutch depressed all the way down will not stop the PTO as a 2 stage clutch should.  

Upon further research, I found this:

"_Almost 100% of the Fords with the 8-speed trans. (8 forward/2 reverse) have a two-stage clutch/live PTO. If yours is 8-spd, look at the link connecting the pedal to the clutch shaft. You should see a clevis with two sets of holes at one end. The clutch pedal height is lowered or raised significantly by changing the clevis pin from one set of holes to the other. When you want to use the pto, you need to locate that pin to the set of holes that brings the clutch pedal up to the higher position. If it's already at the highest position and still won't disengage even when all adjustments are set to specs, the tractor will probably need to be split to repair the clutch assembly."_

For an update to the previous conversation; the seller has agreed to come down on the price to cover the potential repairs.  I am going back this weekend to try and troubleshoot the problem externally and will make a decision then.


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## Napi (Dec 31, 2014)

Jason, good advice above. Could be as simple as what Pappy says. Take the discount and hope for that or try before you buy, but seller may not want to discount then. If you have a cement slab and a couple floor jacks, those tractors aren't bad to put a clutch in. I did a 4500 Ford backhoe by myself. The thought of doing it was the worst thing. Took me about six hours and that was doing some cleaning and other tinkering while I had it apart.


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## 7 point (Jan 4, 2015)

Your clutch should sit pretty high I know on my dexta the clutch has to sit on the highest level on the adjustment for the pto to engage . If the drive clutch works then chances are theres nothing wrong with the pto clutch in my experience the drive clutch goes out before the pto clutch.


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## Gaducker (Jan 4, 2015)

So when you push the clutch pedal all the way in your pto  output is continuing to spin with no implement ?


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## JasonF (Jan 4, 2015)

Gaducker said:


> So when you push the clutch pedal all the way in your pto  output is continuing to spin with no implement ?



Correct


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## JasonF (Jan 4, 2015)

Well, I brought her home this weekend.  When I look at the link connecting the clutch pedal to the shaft, I cannot see anywhere to make an adjustment to the clutch pedal.  I will post a picture here in a bit.  My thought is that the clutch is stuck to the pressure plate and will have to split the tractor to fix the problem with the PTO.  I will see if I can figure out how to adjust the clutch pedal first and will split the tractor as a last resort.  I can get a clutch kit for around $350 and have decided to do the work myself.  When I get this resolved, I should have a sound tractor that will suit me fine.


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## JasonF (Jan 4, 2015)

Here are a few pictures of the link from the clutch pedal to the shaft.  Should be an adjustment somewhere....


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## Milkman (Jan 4, 2015)

Have you already tried the suggestions above about possible ways to get the clutch plate to come unstuck ??

As for adjustments,..............It looks to me like that front clevis is threaded. 

 If so, take out the pin holding it to the arm and thread it further on or off the shaft. The reconnect to the clutch pedal to see if it will pull the clutch plate away from the fly wheel. 

You may go the wrong way the first time what you want is greater travel with the pedal


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## 1gr8bldr (Jan 4, 2015)

On mine, it is a two stage. Yours I think should be a two stage of which it should have a clevis and pin in order that you can by pass the two stage. Someone may have switched yours out... for some unknown reason. On mine, my gears grind slightly, I have to lower the idle, depress clutch, making sure all the way and pop it in gear. If I try to pull it in gear slowly, it will grind. This likely because my clutch could use adjusting. But in my case, if I go much the other way, the tractor  moves ever so slightly when the clutch is depressed.  I see you have about 1/4 of threads left on the rod. Pull your pin, twist in until bottomed out. If it works, starting working back out until just before it grinds. 

Edit; LOL, I now see where Milkman has already said this


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## JasonF (Jan 4, 2015)

Milkman said:


> Have you already tried the suggestions above about possible ways to get the clutch plate to come unstuck ??
> 
> As for adjustments,..............It looks to me like that front clevis is threaded.
> 
> ...




Yes, I've tried the suggestions above with no luck.  There is some play in the clutch pedal so maybe the adjustment will work.


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## JasonF (Jan 4, 2015)

1gr8bldr said:


> On mine, it is a two stage. Yours I think should be a two stage of which it should have a clevis and pin in order that you can by pass the two stage. Someone may have switched yours out... for some unknown reason. On mine, my gears grind slightly, I have to lower the idle, depress clutch, making sure all the way and pop it in gear. If I try to pull it in gear slowly, it will grind. This likely because my clutch could use adjusting. But in my case, if I go much the other way, the tractor  moves ever so slightly when the clutch is depressed.  I see you have about 1/4 of threads left on the rod. Pull your pin, twist in until bottomed out. If it works, starting working back out until just before it grinds.
> 
> Edit; LOL, I now see where Milkman has already said this



The serial number for my tractor signifies it being a dual clutch and the shop manual states that only the earlier models had the clevis adjustment with the two holes. The guy sold it to me as a 1975 but it is a 1974.  Hopefully that 1/4" is enough adjustment to do the trick.


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## Milkman (Jan 4, 2015)

JasonF said:


> Yes, I've tried the suggestions above with no luck.  There is some play in the clutch pedal so maybe the adjustment will work.



Any machine shop could shorten the threaded rod a half inch or so and add more threads if needed.


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## JasonF (Jan 4, 2015)

Great idea!


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## JasonF (Jan 19, 2015)

Update:  

I made the adjustment by twisting the link and the PTO works fine now.  Since then I've been working on changing all the fluids.  I bought a new instrument cluster and the one it had on it was wired completely wrong.  I ordered a new wiring harness and am just going to re-wire the whole tractor.  
Overall she's been a good buy so far.


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