# Need shocks, 4Runner?



## Artfuldodger (Mar 26, 2016)

I recently bought a 2001 Toyota 4Runner. I know it's on a truck body and that is why I bought it. We can tow 5,000 lbs and haul a Chifferobe in the back of it.  I'm going from a married man in a mini-van to the 4Runner.
It was a 98 Chevy Astro and has served us well. Many trips to the mountains and the beach. My wife even sleeps in it when we go camping. It was a great little van. It could easily haul a Chifferobe back from the beach.

Anyway we like the 4Runner but it has a very bouncy ride. I know it's a truck but so was the Astro. We test drove a couple of other 3rd Gen 4Runners that weren't that bouncy.
It's OK on the highway, it's when you turn off onto the side streets, etc. Augusta has some bad secondary roads.

Now back to shocks. I don't understand the difference between soft or stiff as it pertains to what I'm looking for in a ride. I rarely go off the road except to a hiking trail head on a forest service road in the mountians.
So my main concern is city driving. Can I make a 4Runner ride like a car, somewhat? Not at all?

Any ideas or recommendations on shocks or if shocks will even help me? My daughter is getting sea sick.


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## Eudora (Mar 28, 2016)

Sounds like it just needs the shocks and struts REPLACED.  They are designed to control and stabilize the coil or leaf springs.  Without shocks and struts (or if they are badly worn) the vehicle would be weaving and bobbing up and down, much like you described.  Just standard replacement shocks in rear and struts in front should make a big difference. Braking distance should improve too. Go ahead and get the complete strut assembly which includes the strut, spring and bearing assembly all in one piece.  Not much more in cost and makes it a complete Do It Yourself project.


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## rjcruiser (Mar 28, 2016)

Eudora said:


> Sounds like it just needs the shocks and struts REPLACED.  They are designed to control and stabilize the coil or leaf springs.  Without shocks and struts (or if they are badly worn) the vehicle would be weaving and bobbing up and down, much like you described.  Just standard replacement shocks in rear and struts in front should make a big difference. Braking distance should improve too. Go ahead and get the complete strut assembly which includes the strut, spring and bearing assembly all in one piece.  Not much more in cost and makes it a complete Do It Yourself project.



I personally would have the struts replaced by a local shop.  They're under a lot of tension and things can go wrong if you're not careful.


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## Eudora (Mar 28, 2016)

rjcruiser said:


> I personally would have the struts replaced by a local shop.  They're under a lot of tension and things can go wrong if you're not careful.



RJC- you can now buy the entire strut assembly - new strut bearing, plate, spring and strut cartridge already assembled and ready to go.  Just unbolt the old unit and bolt the new one on.  Priced very reasonable too.  Just like buying an entire control arm now instead of replacing the worn ball joint and bushings.  Saves labor and time.


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## Hoot (Mar 28, 2016)

I replaced the ones in my '99.  I have the equipment to do so, and it was not an easy job at all.

And guess what?  It really doesn't ride much better than it did with the old, worn out ones.

4Runners are known for having a horrible ride (while sitting in the back seat).


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## Artfuldodger (Mar 28, 2016)

Hoot said:


> I replaced the ones in my '99.  I have the equipment to do so, and it was not an easy job at all.
> 
> And guess what?  It really doesn't ride much better than it did with the old, worn out ones.
> 
> 4Runners are known for having a horrible ride (while sitting in the back seat).



The other 4Runner we drove wasn't bouncy like the one we bought. It was the same generation. I've read that the back seat ride is actually better in a 4Runner than the front set ride.

Did you replace the entire strut assembly? Wouldn't that make it where you wouldn't need spring compressors? Maybe use a jack to remove spring tension?


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## Artfuldodger (Mar 28, 2016)

Eudora said:


> Sounds like it just needs the shocks and struts REPLACED.  They are designed to control and stabilize the coil or leaf springs.  Without shocks and struts (or if they are badly worn) the vehicle would be weaving and bobbing up and down, much like you described.  Just standard replacement shocks in rear and struts in front should make a big difference. Braking distance should improve too. Go ahead and get the complete strut assembly which includes the strut, spring and bearing assembly all in one piece.  Not much more in cost and makes it a complete Do It Yourself project.



Yeah that's the way mine is doing. I understand being a 4Runner it's going to ride like a truck but with 160,000 miles they might need replacing. I like the idea of getting a new coil spring also. The springs on mine might be wore out too.

I still don't know if I need soft or stiff for city driving vs off road. I think city driving requires stiff and off road folks like soft.


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## Artfuldodger (Mar 28, 2016)

It's suppose to be safer and easier but it still requires spring compressors. We have some big pneumatic control actuators on our chilled water valves at work that require spring compressors. I guess it's the same concept with struts.


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## Artfuldodger (Mar 28, 2016)

Here is a guy using the weight of the Tocoma as a spring compressor with a floor jack. It looks doable;



Check out the condition of these old shocks at the end of this video. I wonder it the whole assembly comes with top hats? Maybe that's the same thing as the spring isolator upper mount in the Monroe video.


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## Eudora (Mar 29, 2016)

Artfuldodger said:


> Here is a guy using the weight of the Tocoma as a spring compressor with a floor jack. It looks doable;
> 
> 
> 
> Check out the condition of these old shocks at the end of this video. I wonder it the whole assembly comes with top hats? Maybe that's the same thing as the spring isolator upper mount in the Monroe video.



PLEASE don't try and use a makeshift spring compressor!  I've heard horror stories of teeth knocked out and lost digits on a hand.  Way too much tension if you don't have the right equipment.  Go to RockAuto.com.  Less than $75 each.  I know this brand of full strut assemblies quite well (FCS).  Life time warranty.  Perfect fit and exactly like the one your replacing with new bearings, coil spring and all. 1336341L and 1336341R TOYOTA - 4 Runner 6 Cyl.Engine 02-96 FL(3.4 Liter V6)	front Left and front Right


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## rjcruiser (Mar 29, 2016)

Eudora said:


> RJC- you can now buy the entire strut assembly - new strut bearing, plate, spring and strut cartridge already assembled and ready to go.  Just unbolt the old unit and bolt the new one on.  Priced very reasonable too.  Just like buying an entire control arm now instead of replacing the worn ball joint and bushings.  Saves labor and time.



Very cool.  About time


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## Artfuldodger (Mar 29, 2016)

Eudora,
Thanks, I'll buy or rent the spring compressors. I understand when people use the jack method they tie the spring off with a strap just in case.

I'm also checking on the fit as those numbers appear to be only for 4WD 4Runners. I might be back to buying shocks, coil springs, and top bearing/isolators separately.

I checked those part numbers and it appears  they only fit the 4WD 4Runners. I like those prices though.

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...on,strut+/+coil+spring+/+mount+assembly,15174

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=2437869742&pf_rd_i=desktop

This Gabriel assembly says it fits a 2WD 4Runner;
http://www.autozone.com/suspension-...3-4l-efi-dohc/382760_6880_2362/?checkfit=true

http://gabriel.com/product-search/light-vehicle-detailed-specs/?partnum=G57065


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## Artfuldodger (Mar 29, 2016)

Eric the Car Guy says you don't need spring compressors if you buy the whole strut assembly. I was trying to figure this out. If it comes as an assembly, why would I need to compress the springs?
I can understand and see if I was changing just the strut but it would appear the whole concept of the Monroe Quick Strut, Gabriel Ready Strut, or the FCS Complete Strut Assembly is you wouldn't need a spring compressor. 
Doesn't the coil spring come off with the strut;


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## Artfuldodger (Mar 29, 2016)

Looking at this video the whole strut assembly is removed, coil spring still attached. He then removes the coil spring using spring compressors with the whole strut/spring assembly off of the vehicle.

Now if one was using these "whole strut/spring assemblies, there would be no use removing the spring from the old assemblies thus saving time and not having to address the safety issue of removing the springs. Also replacing the coil spring and top isolator/mount.

I think that's the way to go and a shout out to Eudora for the suggestion;


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## Hoot (Apr 1, 2016)

Artfuldodger said:


> The other 4Runner we drove wasn't bouncy like the one we bought. It was the same generation. I've read that the back seat ride is actually better in a 4Runner than the front set ride.
> 
> Did you replace the entire strut assembly? Wouldn't that make it where you wouldn't need spring compressors? Maybe use a jack to remove spring tension?



Been 3-4 years, and I have slept since then, so I don't recall exactly what I did.  

But I do recall using spring compressors on the fronts.  And I recall getting out my reciprocating saw to remove the rears.  IFIR, struts on front, shocks on rear.  Had to cut out the rears, because I absolutely could not both get a wrench on the top nut and turn it (while holding the shaft) (the nut was frozen to the shaft) (or some combination of the 3 above).  And after checking, I was not the first person to run into that problem.  But a small, compact reciprocating saw solved the problem, lickety-split.  Installing the new rears was a breeze.


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## Artfuldodger (Apr 1, 2016)

Hoot said:


> Been 3-4 years, and I have slept since then, so I don't recall exactly what I did.
> 
> But I do recall using spring compressors on the fronts.  And I recall getting out my reciprocating saw to remove the rears.  IFIR, struts on front, shocks on rear.  Had to cut out the rears, because I absolutely could not both get a wrench on the top nut and turn it (while holding the shaft) (the nut was frozen to the shaft) (or some combination of the 3 above).  And after checking, I was not the first person to run into that problem.  But a small, compact reciprocating saw solved the problem, lickety-split.  Installing the new rears was a breeze.



Thanks, I have since read that the top nut on the rear shock is hard to get to. Do you recall what you had to cut? I guess the shaft itself.


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## Hoot (Apr 2, 2016)

Artfuldodger said:


> Thanks, I have since read that the top nut on the read shock is hard to get to. Do you recall what you had to cut? I guess the shaft itself.



Yep - the shaft itself.


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## Artfuldodger (Apr 2, 2016)

Hoot said:


> Yep - the shaft itself.



They made the back ones like most vehicles front shocks with a threaded shaft to mount the top. I wonder why they didn't use the conventional shock with a hole in it for bolt to go through.
A Gabriel tech told me that the 3rd Gen 2WD and 4WD have the same suspension set up and shocks. Maybe that was the reason.


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## Hoot (Apr 2, 2016)

Artfuldodger said:


> They made the back ones like most vehicles front shocks with a threaded shaft to mount the top. I wonder why they didn't use the conventional shock with a hole in it for bolt to go through.
> A Gabriel tech told me that the 3rd Gen 2WD and 4WD have the same suspension set up and shocks. Maybe that was the reason.



I've long thought that they designed it so that you have to take it to the dealer to repair things.  Like the drive shaft u-joint bearings going out.  No grease fittings on them, and non-removable bearings.  When mine failed, it was either take it to the dealer and pay $1,200-$1,500 for a new drive shaft, or do surgery on it myself.  That is what I did.  With a die grinder and cutoff wheel, I removed the u-joints.  Bought some aftermarket u-joints with grease fittings, and they are held in by c-clips.  Serviceable and replaceable.  But they will never go out again because I keep them greased.

Then there was the "$400 starter" that turned out to be a $28 contact inside the starter.  4 hours of labor (that thing was a nightmare to remove and install) later, it worked again.

Don't get me started on the "failed head gasket" ordeal.  All symptoms made it look like a leaking head gasket.  I finally got a coolant test kit that detects exhaust gas in the coolant.  None found, so I took a gamble and found that it was simply a failed $28 fuel injector.  Now it runs like a champ again, with 175k miles.

'99 was a bad year for Toyota.  I think they started going downhill in quality then.  I am constantly fixing my daughter's '03 Rav4.


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