# Building a strip canoe



## Howard Roark (May 31, 2012)

My son and I are building a strip canoe this summer while he is home from college.  I will update the thread occasionally with photo updates.


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## SASS249 (May 31, 2012)

Which design?


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## Howard Roark (May 31, 2012)

Gilpatrick Laker


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## SASS249 (Jun 1, 2012)

Good choice.  Gilpatrick's designs are really useable boats.  His building methods are a little "rough"  but you can turn out a nice boat.  What wood are you using and are you going with bead and cove strips?


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## Howard Roark (Jun 1, 2012)

Yellow pine on our first one. 

I have a friend who owns a millworker company so yes I am bead and coving the strips.


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## SASS249 (Jun 1, 2012)

Interesting choice of wood.  Yellow pine weight can vary all over the place.  Carefully chosen you can get the weight down, but this could potentially results in a pretty heavy boat.

Please keep us updated on your build.  I have done a number of strip canoes over the years and if I can be of any help just let me know.


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## Howard Roark (Jun 1, 2012)

I met with a guy who built his first of many canoes out of yellow pine. He recommend yellow pine due to low cost and extreme flexability.   Not concerned with weight on this canoe. 

Clear western cedar is 7.50 per bd.ft.  Going to learn on a cheaper wood.


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## SASS249 (Jun 1, 2012)

10-4 on the western red cedar.  Hard to find and expensive as all get out.  When I first started building I could not find much of it in Atlanta and what I did find was of poor quality.  I built my first boat from tulip poplar and it worked out so well I have continued to use it.


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## Howard Roark (Jun 1, 2012)

I considered popular but decided against because of the white and green variances in color. Can you post some pictures of your canoes.


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## SASS249 (Jun 1, 2012)

Pictures can be seen best here:

http://bertboats.shutterfly.com/

but here is one of them:


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## Howard Roark (Jun 1, 2012)

What are the gunnels made of?


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## Howard Roark (Jun 1, 2012)

SASS249 said:


> Pictures can be seen best here:
> 
> http://bertboats.shutterfly.com/
> 
> but here is one of them:



Is the poplar stained?


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## gstanfield (Jun 1, 2012)

Looking good. I'm building Gilpatrick's Puddle Duck canoe, build thread here: http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthr...Duck-canoe&highlight=gilpatrick's+puddle+duck


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## SASS249 (Jun 1, 2012)

The gunnels, seats and yoke are all tulip poplar that has been stained.

The hull is all tulip poplar and the color variations you see are natural.  The greenish color you see in tulip poplar comes out as brown when you apply epoxy.  Tulip poplar also will sometimes have the deeper, almost black that you see above and when you apply epoxy it gets really dark.

Don't know where you are in Georgia, but I have three of my boats (the three I use myself) here at the house and you are welcome to come by and see them.


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## SASS249 (Jun 1, 2012)

The gunnels, seats and yoke are all tulip poplar that has been stained.

The hull is all tulip poplar and the color variations you see are natural.  The greenish color you see in tulip poplar comes out as brown when you apply epoxy.  Tulip poplar also will sometimes have the deeper, almost black that you see above and when you apply epoxy it gets really dark.

Don't know where you are in Georgia, but I have three of my boats (the three I use myself) here at the house and you are welcome to come by and see them.


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## Howard Roark (Jun 4, 2012)

I am in the Athens area.


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## Jasper (Jun 4, 2012)

Wow, what an awesome project! Looking forward to seeing more pics as you progress. Great time spent with your son!


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## Howard Roark (Jun 4, 2012)

gstanfield said:


> Looking good. I'm building Gilpatrick's Puddle Duck canoe, build thread here: http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthr...Duck-canoe&highlight=gilpatrick's+puddle+duck



Building from Western Cedar?


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## olcaptain (Jun 4, 2012)

This is very interesting. Thanks for posting your talents!


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## SASS249 (Jun 4, 2012)

Howard Roark said:


> I am in the Athens area.



PM sent


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## Howard Roark (Jun 4, 2012)

If I come down your way I will get with you.


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## Howard Roark (Jun 4, 2012)

Picking up my wood tomorrow at 10.  Can't wait to get started.


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## Sparky McGyver (Jun 4, 2012)

Glad to see more Canoe Builders on the "Forum"....
Building canoes is not as hard as most people think.

It just takes "alittle bit" of time......


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## Howard Roark (Jun 4, 2012)

Sparky McGyver said:


> Glad to see more Canoe Builders on the "Forum"....
> Building canoes is not as hard as most people think.
> 
> It just takes "alittle bit" of time......



What kind of wood is in your canoe.


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## gstanfield (Jun 6, 2012)

To the question about wood in mine above:

Yes, western red cedar. It's about all I have available here in Wyoming 

The accent strips came out pretty terrible though. When dry the darker streak was pretty consistent in color, but when wet out with epoxy it did not darken evenly. It's OK though, live and learn


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## Howard Roark (Jun 6, 2012)

I just picked up my wood from the mill work company.

Southern Yellow Pine


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## Howard Roark (Jun 6, 2012)

I bought a cheap electric stapler and it will not drive a staple through the pine into the MDF that my forms are made of.  Any suggestions?


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## gstanfield (Jun 6, 2012)

I used a bosch manual stapler for mine, but WRC is a bit softer than SYP so I dunno. If you follow the link I posted before you can see a lot of improvised clamping and fastening in my build thread.


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## SASS249 (Jun 6, 2012)

I have a solution but is is sort of non-orthodox.  After fiddling with staples and just not liking the way they worked for me I took a pretty aggressive approach,  I use aluminum panel nails, one nail per station.  I am careful to line them up as I strip and when the hull is done I pull each one and fill the hole with a toothpick.  When you are done you end up with a line of dark "dots" that look from the outside like you have fastened ribs in the boat.  You can see them below:







I just have no patience in fiddling with staples.  This way I have a sure fit at each station and do not end up pulling all those staples.  I have to admit I build for use, not pretty but turns out I like the way they look.


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## Howard Roark (Jun 6, 2012)

Howard Roark said:


> Building from Western Cedar?[/QUOTE
> 
> It looked like you screwed your strips to the stations.  Is that correct?


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## gstanfield (Jun 6, 2012)

Some of the difficult ones were screwed to the stations with small screws, and the others were stapled, it just depended on the location and how hard the strip was twisted. After a steam bath using scalding hot water and rags the wood swelled up and partially filled the holes then some thickened epoxy filled them so that you can hardly see the holes!


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## gstanfield (Jun 6, 2012)

Another shot showing the combination of clamping / fastening methods.


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## Howard Roark (Jun 7, 2012)

The strips are flying into place.


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## Howard Roark (Jun 10, 2012)

Day 2 of stripping.


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## SASS249 (Jun 10, 2012)

Looking good.  I see you are building using Gilpatrick's method without an inner stem.  I have not done that yet but the inner stem is mostly for show.

Are you going to install an outer stem, and have you picked a wood for it yet?

Please keep the pictures coming.  By the way your workshop is way too clean


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## gstanfield (Jun 10, 2012)

Looking good indeed. For some inspiration, here's the same model as built by my friend Richard





and another Laker built by my friend Craig:





There would have been three of them, but I had to be the oddball and build the puddle duck It's funny that you guys talk about WRC as being expensive and look for other woods to build from. Out here in Wyoming it's about the only wood I can find that is decent enough to make strips from. I guess it's all in your location.


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## Howard Roark (Jun 11, 2012)

Southern yellow pine is what is cheap here.

WRC is $8 per bdft for clear boards 16' long.


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## Howard Roark (Jun 12, 2012)

Day 3 of stripping.  I worked by myself for about 2 1/2 hours.


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## Howard Roark (Jun 12, 2012)

Built a seat prototype today.  Cutting compound mortise and tenon joints took a little work.


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## Howard Roark (Jun 13, 2012)

I cut and glued our Mortise ad Tenon for the canoe seats today.


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## Nicodemus (Jun 13, 2012)

That`s gonna be a fine craft.


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## SASS249 (Jun 13, 2012)

Moving right along.  Getting ready to make the turn at the bilge and that is always interesting.

Have you bought your epoxy and cloth yet?


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## Howard Roark (Jun 13, 2012)

SASS249 said:


> Moving right along.  Getting ready to make the turn at the bilge and that is always interesting.
> 
> Have you bought your epoxy and cloth yet?



I have not.  I have to be away from the project for a little while. I am going to order from RAKA.


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## SASS249 (Jun 14, 2012)

I was going to recommend RAKA.  I have used them a lot and gotten great service, good prices and a fine product.  I like to use their slow cure hardner.  It gives a long working time and I do not end up feeling rushed to get the goo on.

Keep up the good work and please keep the pictures coming.


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## gstanfield (Jun 14, 2012)

Sounds like you've already chosen your supplier, but if for some reason you find yourself looking for something they might not have or want to shop around I've had great success buying from www.boatbuildercentral.com The guys there are really friendly, have a support forum if you need it and the prices are very good too! I've used their products on several boats already and the four boats currently under construction in my shop will all be built with their epoxy and glass 

(I have no interest in their company, just like to support good folks when I can and always pass on positive shopping expereinces)


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## dawg2 (Jun 14, 2012)

Where is a good source for plans and instructions on building one?

Great looking boats!


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## SASS249 (Jun 14, 2012)

The bible of strip canoe building :
Canoecraft by Ted Moores

http://www.amazon.com/Canoecraft-Illustrated-Guide-Woodstrip-Construction/dp/1552093425

The one Howard Roark is building comes from Gil Gilpatrick's book

http://gilgilpatrick.com/strip-canoe.html

The two books are good complements for each other.  Moores has more plans in it but Gilpatrick has a great "git er done" approach.  There are a number of other books around as well as any number of places you can find free plans.

The result of building a strip boat is way out of proportion to the skills it requires.  They really are not hard and mine paddle way better than any plastic boat I have ever used.


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## Howard Roark (Jun 14, 2012)

What brand of spar varnish do you use?


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## Howard Roark (Jun 14, 2012)

Worked a couple hours today alone.  It makes you think how to handle a 16' strip by yourself.


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## NE GA Pappy (Jun 14, 2012)

What kind of glue are you using and what size are those strips?  I know where I can get some clear cypress 16ft long. I bet it would make a swell canoe.


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## Howard Roark (Jun 15, 2012)

Titlebond II glue

I would like some 16' clear cyprus strips as well if someone is selling.


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## SASS249 (Jun 15, 2012)

Howard Roark said:


> What brand of spar varnish do you use?



I have to admit that I am a little outside the norm since I use Minwax polyurethane spar varnish.  On my first boat I used epiphanes, but first it is expensive and second you end up having to order it.  

I build these boats for pretty hard use.  I went with the minwax because it is readily available in most big box stores, it works well for me and I don't end up worrying about scratches and scrapes.  I also use the matt finish, simply because I like the way it looks better then I like the glossy finish.

I have built several boats for donations to charities and for friends.  Knowing that most people do not really get into having to maintain things, I use the minwax because they can go to the big box, buy it and apply it without the hassles of buying expensive finishes.  That way they are more likely to use the boat since they know that once a year all they need to do is a light sanding and apply a coat or two of the finish.


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## Howard Roark (Jun 16, 2012)

More photos.


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## Howard Roark (Jun 16, 2012)

Our next canoe gets an internal and external stem on the bow and stern.


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## SASS249 (Jun 16, 2012)

Howard Roark said:


> Our next canoe gets an internal and external stem on the bow and stern.



Not too late to add an external stem to this one if you want.


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## Howard Roark (Jun 17, 2012)

We have turned the corners on both sides.


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## Howard Roark (Jun 18, 2012)

We started weaving seats this evening.


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## Howard Roark (Jun 20, 2012)

Some more seat shots.


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## gstanfield (Jun 21, 2012)

Very nice! 
I don't have the patience to cane my own seats, especially when I can buy them dirt cheap and support a good organization all at the same time  

http://www.essexindustries.org/


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## Howard Roark (Jun 21, 2012)

Those are great prices.


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## Howard Roark (Jun 26, 2012)

Just completely finished my first seats complete with corner pegs.


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## davidf5252 (Jun 27, 2012)

This is just awesome! Im very impressed in more ways than one. The fact that you're doing this with your son makes him one lucky kid. I try and be the best father I can to my two kids and I hope to still be as good of a father as you are when my kids are in college. 

Nice thread and darn nice boat!


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## Howard Roark (Jun 28, 2012)

davidf5252 said:


> This is just awesome! Im very impressed in more ways than one. The fact that you're doing this with your son makes him one lucky kid. I try and be the best father I can to my two kids and I hope to still be as good of a father as you are when my kids are in college.
> 
> Nice thread and darn nice boat!



I ain't perfect friend.  This has been a great summer.


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## Dr. Strangelove (Jun 29, 2012)

Roughly, what does the materials cost end up being for one of these canoes?


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## SASS249 (Jun 29, 2012)

I usually figure 1/3 of the total for the wood
                           1/3 of the total for fiberglass and epoxy
                           1/3 of the total for expendables, sandpaper, gloves etc.

The last 15' I built the materials added up to just over $500.00


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## broadhead (Jun 29, 2012)

Great experience. Impressive all around.


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## pine nut (Jul 9, 2012)

TTT,  What's going on?  Need to see more pics!  Having withdrawal symptoms.  Please!


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## Howard Roark (Jul 11, 2012)

Sorry for the delay guys.  Here is a new photo.


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## pine nut (Jul 11, 2012)

Thanks, that feels much better!


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## gstanfield (Jul 11, 2012)

Very nice! I'm really diggin the look of the pine, it's a lot of difference from teh cedar I'm used to looking at.


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## Howard Roark (Jul 13, 2012)

Finished stripping the canoe.


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## pine nut (Jul 14, 2012)

Can't wait to see the finish on it!  Cool Project!


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## NE GA Pappy (Jul 23, 2012)

what are the dimemsions of the strips?  How many feet of stripping did you use?

Pappy


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## Howard Roark (Jul 25, 2012)

NE GA Pappy said:


> what are the dimemsions of the strips?  How many feet of stripping did you use?
> 
> Pappy



About 70 16' strips


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## blink (Jul 28, 2012)

man, i would love to try this someday.

great job! cant wait to see more!


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## gregg dudley (Jul 28, 2012)

Very cool thread!
I can't wait to see the finished product.


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## Howard Roark (Aug 1, 2012)

Had a little set back.  We left on vacation and when we returned the stern had split.  I talked with Gil Gilpatrick and he said he never saw a canoe split.


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## Miguel Cervantes (Aug 1, 2012)

Howard Roark said:


> Had a little set back.  We left on vacation and when we returned the stern had split.  I talked with Gil Gilpatrick and he said he never saw a canoe split.



Ouch, that's gonna be a pain to fix. I bet your heart sank when  you saw that.


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## Howard Roark (Aug 1, 2012)

We gave a little thought to the fix and came up with a two step process.  We epoxied the stern and clamped into place for 24 hours.  Then we removed the stem form and soaked cotton balls in epoxy and stuck them inside the stern.  It is solid as a rock now.

All canoes here after will have a interior and exterior stem in the bow and stern.  No more cutting angles and wrestling to get the ends to meet.


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## Howard Roark (Aug 1, 2012)

We completed our first sanding today and wet the canoe before we left.  We will wet sand twice tomorrow and maybe put on our first coat of epoxy.


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## Howard Roark (Aug 2, 2012)

We wet sanded two times today.


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## Howard Roark (Aug 2, 2012)

We also put on our first coat of epoxy.


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## Howard Roark (Aug 2, 2012)

NE GA Pappy said:


> What kind of glue are you using and what size are those strips?  I know where I can get some clear cypress 16ft long. I bet it would make a swell canoe.



Where can you purchase clear cypress?


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## Howard Roark (Aug 4, 2012)

We put the second coat of epoxy on yesterday.  Monday we fiberglass.


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## Howard Roark (Aug 6, 2012)

We started fiber glassing today.


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## SASS249 (Aug 6, 2012)

The part of the job I like the least.  Just a little messy and tiring but nothing magical about it.  One tip: once the resin sets pretty well but is still soft go ahead and trim off the fiberglass along the stem and gunnels.  Seems a little easier to trim then than once the resin is set.

Keep it coming!


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## Howard Roark (Aug 6, 2012)

SASS249 said:


> The part of the job I like the least.  Just a little messy and tiring but nothing magical about it.  One tip: once the resin sets pretty well but is still soft go ahead and trim off the fiberglass along the stem and gunnels.  Seems a little easier to trim then than once the resin is set.
> 
> Keep it coming!



A local guy helped me today and advised that it will come off very easy tomorrow with a sharp razor.


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## Howard Roark (Aug 7, 2012)

We put on our 2nd coat of epoxy over the fiber cloth.


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## pine nut (Aug 15, 2012)

Sure is a work of art!


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## davedirt (Aug 18, 2012)

Sure is nice, loved all the pics. You can't beat the feeling of buiding something yourself. Great Job and thanks for sharing,


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## Gaswamp (Aug 18, 2012)

have enjoyed reading this thread


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## injun joe (Aug 18, 2012)

That's a real beauty. Can't wait til you launch her.


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## shakey gizzard (Aug 19, 2012)

Cool!


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## bluemarlin (Aug 19, 2012)

Great thread. I like how you handled the "little set back" too... So typical of the way life works. Nothing comes easy and there will always be little set backs. 
Your end result is very impressive.
Sass, your recommended maintenance is sand and stain once a year?


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## SASS249 (Aug 19, 2012)

Sass said:
			
		

> What I usually do is a cleaning with soap and water using a green scotchbrite pad.  Light sanding only as needed to buff out scratches and then a coat or two of varnish.
> 
> Should not take more than an hour or two a year.  I use matt finish varnish.  High gloss or even satin can really pop and make one look great, but matt hides more mistakes and people seem more willing to use the boats.
> 
> As I have said before, I build them to use, not look at.


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## gstanfield (Sep 15, 2012)

For use I always treat the bottoms of mine with an epoxy/graphite mix. It's not as pretty as the wood, but you only see the bottom when it is turned upside down anyway. With the graphite covered bottom it slides easily across rocks, gravel, trees, etc. The stuff is so slick and tough you can hardly even wet-sand it!!

Looks good BTW, nice to see the progress.


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## Howard Roark (Mar 29, 2013)

Ready to start the inside after some time off.


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## T-N-T (Jan 7, 2015)

Did you finish the boat?!


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## NE GA Pappy (Jan 7, 2015)

White County Moulding in Cleveland Ga has the clear cypress.  Talk with Jason or Laura


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## Jeff C. (Jan 7, 2015)

Very Nice...enjoyed this thread.


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