# opinions on framing the back of a metal carport



## ribber

i have 2 metal carports side by side and looking for opinions on how to close the backs on them. i have a privacy fence that runs up to the first one and closing the backs will give me privacy down the whole side of yard. i'm thinking frame it with 2x4's and put metal or tin up. but not sure exactly how to frame it. any opinions?


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## ribber

it's the carports in my avatar. pic taken before fence, but it stops behind tree at back corner of shelter.


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## harryrichdawg

I'd just extend the fence behind the carports.


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## jmfauver

Use metal studs ( it is outside) and get them as long as you need for the height you want..Put up metal siding on the back to close them in or look the carport company up, they do offer prices to close them off...


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## Milkman

Get the folks who installed them to come back and mig weld some of the 2x2 metal in for you.  then you can put whatever you want for skin.


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## merc123

Friend of mine closed the back of his.  Framed it with 2x4's and then used sheets of wood (plywood or MDF) to make the outside wall.  The inside he left unfinished so you can see the 2x4 studs. He was going to skin it in aluminum siding but never did it.

The wood was useful because he was able to put nails in it and hang stuff.


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## ribber

merc123 said:


> Friend of mine closed the back of his.  Framed it with 2x4's and then used sheets of wood (plywood or MDF) to make the outside wall.  The inside he left unfinished so you can see the 2x4 studs. He was going to skin it in aluminum siding but never did it.
> 
> The wood was useful because he was able to put nails in it and hang stuff.



that's what i was thinking. have the wood studs on inside to hang things. i can order the metal to match shelter and it will be precut. i'm not sure though how i should frame it. maybe run a 2x4 across bottom and attach studs from bottom board to top metal frame every 3 or 4 feet? then attach metal to studs. not sure if that would be enough to withstand high winds


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## poolman67

I would frame it just like a wall in the house. used pt 2x4's. 16" on center with a top plate and bottom plate. You are going to have to support the bottom plate on something every couple of ft between bottom and the ground. I would attach wall to metal frame with straps around metal post and selftapping screws.


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## Artfuldodger

If there is no slab You might need a concrete footing for the bottom plate. You could form the footing about a foot above the ground so you'll have a less problem with water. You could make your top header just like a house wall, parallel to the bottom plate. Then go from the top plate to the roof to fill in the eve. That would be more cutting but might be easier and stronger.


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## merc123

If I remember to take a picture of my friend's I will.


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## ribber

all great ideas. i know now what i should do. thanks guys


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## klfutrelle

We closed ours in on the sides and the back using the same color tin. I framed the back up with 2x4's and left them exposed.

The cheaper option would be to frame with 2x4's and cover with OSB and paint it. Not sure if you want it to look nice or just do it cheap as possible.


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## Cabin creek man

If its not on a slab consider pouring a 8 inch wide by 8 inch tall footer  half under the grade half above it will stop water enrochment and be heavy enough for you to either shoot your bottom plate down with a .22 cal nail gun or use the hardened screws and matching concrete bit as fasteners to give your building extra stability. You could just dig the trench and frame over it with1x4's then pour the footer useing sackcrete no more than what it is.not really a bad job but you will have something when your finished and your bottom plate and lower ends of your studswont rot out inside a couple of years.


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## olcop

Just finished one up 12 X 20 ft, used 2x4 studs with OSB over, house wrap and finished with vinyl siding.  First of all, check for level side to side and end to end, I installed the basic bulding on 4X4's. The biggest problem you probably run into is that the framing on the metal part of the building is on odd centers, on mine, the two end sections were on different centers that the center ones, doesn't work out with conventional 16 in on center spacing. I first tried using self drilling screws to attach the 2X 4's to the metal, but soon tired of that and went and bought a  Ramset gun at Lowes, (it uses a .22 blank cartridge to drive the nail, and they have nails available that will fasten to metal) you also probably will have a wall height that won't work out at a conventional stud framed wall height also. So you will , in effect have a short wall .  Anyhow, envision a steel framed rectangle, with a 2X4 fastened to it, top, bottom and both sides, with conventional stud framing on 16" centers(i ignored the steel posts in figuring  the stud centers)with OSb nailed to it in the conventional manner, covered in house wrap and vinyl siding over that, siding is available in a few different colors so you can match other buildings or your house.  Since the roof covering on these carports sort of rolls over the eave and extends downward a bit, I removed the screws that held the roof down and ran the stud walls up about 3-4" and refastened the screws when I finished.
PM me if you have any questions I can answer for you.
olcop


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## merc123

As promised.  Pics of my buddy's.  It does have a leak but don't know why.  Could be because he didn't finish the outside, just raw wood.


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