# Boat Rebuild



## The Fever (Jun 19, 2015)

Well having graduated college I have found that a 40 hour work week leaves a lot of time left to do all the things I wanted to in college. Got a call from my dad not too far back and he asked if I wanted his jon boat and trailer. This was a no brainer of course. So I inherited his first purchase out of college. A 1986 Alumaweld 14 foot with a 2008 Nissan 15HP on the back. The trailer needs some work. All the running boards are missing or rotting and the brackets holding the lights and boards are near gone. The boat has a slight leak on the back, needs a new transom board, and the motor runs ruff. In addition the paint is near faded away and there is a boat seat missing. ALL OF WHICH I AM JACKED ABOUT!!! This is going to make one heck of a project and I can't wait to start. 

The motor sat for 2 years without being ran and it took me a few days to get her to even run. She will now idle beautiful. So much potential to this rig here in T-town. Owners, part, and service manual are now in hand and this weekend begins the process of getting the carb cleaned and cooling system serviced. I will post pictures as I go. 

Here she is at the college before I brought her home.


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## The Fever (Jun 19, 2015)

Last week I got it from not running to here. Going to replace the fuel filter after I clean the carb. I am pretty sure the high speed is clogged and the fuel filter just needs replacing.


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## Lukikus2 (Jun 19, 2015)

Congrats on graduating!

That boat will be fun. Just always wear the kill switch.

There are some good rebuild threads in the waterfowl section. A lot of good guys over there. 

Looking forward to pics.


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## BriarPatch99 (Jun 19, 2015)

Once you get the carb clean and a new impeller .... that will be a nice fishing boat !!


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## The Fever (Jun 20, 2015)

Well before the rain yesterday I managed to get the carb off. On these particular models you have to take the intake manifold off in order to get the carb off. They build it too compact to get in there with a wrench to just get the bolts holding the carb on. Im having trouble getting the bolts holding all this together to loosen up. Any thoughts gents?

Otherwise I am going to leave it intact and take apart the carb as one unit.


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## BriarPatch99 (Jun 20, 2015)

The two bolts that holds the air silencer  goes all the way through the carb and screws into the intake manifold .... take those out and the the carb will be free .... keep up with the order of the spacers and gaskets ...

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Nissan/Outboard/2008/NSF15B2/INLET MANIFOLD, FUEL PUMP/parts.html


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## welderguy (Jun 20, 2015)

spray the bolts down good with PBblaster.wait couple hours.should be broke loose.


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## BriarPatch99 (Jun 20, 2015)

Get a six point wrench that fits the bolts and give the other end of said wrench a sharp tap with a hammer .... be surprised how quick that will loosen up bolts ...make sure to hold the wrench on the bolt head .... you almost need a good padded vise or a good strong friend to help you hold the manifold end....


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## The Fever (Jun 21, 2015)

Well I got it all taken apart and found some minor issues. The rubber boot on the accelerator pump was busted and two hoses need to be replaced. Very little build up on the inside of the carb. A little carb cleaner blasted in there and slapped her back together. I was actually able to do all of this without attempting to take out the two screws. I will, however, take them off next time and use yalls advice. 

The end result is she ran very well afterwords but was not peeing well after higher RPM's. Today I drop the foot and check the water pump. Hopefully I can order a repair kit and have this old girl back to tip top shape. I will keep y'all updated.


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## The Fever (Jun 22, 2015)

Alright fellas, yesterday did not go so well. I realized I didn't have the tool I needed right away. The gear shift shaft has a specialized punch pin you need to push out and I dont have that, nor a replacement pin. If anyone knows if this is a super special tool or if I can get a punch from the hardware store? I'll include photos tonight.


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## The Fever (Jun 23, 2015)

Well yesterday went much better. After work I stopped by harbor freight and got a set of punches. $8 dollars. The pin came out just fine and I was easily able to drop the foot off the motor. The water pump should be replaced soon but was perfectly functional with the exception of some  grimy build up on the impeller and inside of the water pump. After cleaning it up and reassembling the motor the issue remained. I took the foot off again and looked at the connection between the lower unit and the middle. There was something blocking the water flow. After pushing a strand of electric wire up there I knocked it free and the end result is as follows.


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## rjcruiser (Jun 23, 2015)

Good work!

Ahh...the days when all my responsibility was 40 hours at work and I could put boat motors on the kitchen table.   I wouldn't trade my wife and kids for anything in the world....but, enjoy it while you can.


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## The Fever (Jun 23, 2015)

rjcruiser said:


> Good work!
> 
> Ahh...the days when all my responsibility was 40 hours at work and I could put boat motors on the kitchen table.   I wouldn't trade my wife and kids for anything in the world....but, enjoy it while you can.





Here's to hoping kids are a ways off. 

Thanks, man. The wife saw that on facebook while at work and I got a call. She found it less funny than I.


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## BriarPatch99 (Jun 23, 2015)

You may already know this ... the muffs and the water pressure of a hose can sometimes give you false info that the water pump is working well .... test it in a container(with out the muffs) before you pack all the tools away.... I tell you this from learned experience ....


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## Lukikus2 (Jun 23, 2015)

That impellar is toast. I would replace it.


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## The Fever (Jun 23, 2015)

BriarPatch99 said:


> You may already know this ... the muffs and the water pressure of a hose can sometimes give you false info that the water pump is working well .... test it in a container(with out the muffs) before you pack all the tools away.... I tell you this from learned experience ....



Agreed. Tested it later in a rubbermaid and it was doing well there also!  Keep coming with the advice. There is much I don't know.


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## The Fever (Jun 23, 2015)

Lukikus2 said:


> That impellar is toast. I would replace it.



Already ordered !


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## SGaither (Jun 23, 2015)

There is a lot of things my wife will let me assemble and disassemble on the kitchen table but the foot of a boat motor ain't one if them. 

Good luck on the rebuild and keep the progress posted, they are informative and entertaining.


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## Lukikus2 (Jun 23, 2015)

SGaither said:


> There is a lot of things my wife will let me assemble and disassemble on the kitchen table but the foot of a boat motor ain't one if them.
> 
> Good luck on the rebuild and keep the progress posted, they are informative and entertaining.



Well he at least knows the prop shaft seal is still good


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## Lukikus2 (Jun 23, 2015)

You did check the oil in the foot?


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## strutlife (Jun 23, 2015)

I would replace all seals in the foot and also replace foot oil. Save ya some time later after your wanting to enjoy using the boat.


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## The Fever (Jun 24, 2015)

Lukikus2 said:


> You did check the oil in the foot?



Not yet. That is on the docket for this weekend. Do places like west marine carry that kind of oil?


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## The Fever (Jun 24, 2015)

strutlife said:


> I would replace all seals in the foot and also replace foot oil. Save ya some time later after your wanting to enjoy using the boat.



Do you have to disassemble the gears to access the seals?


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## Lukikus2 (Jun 25, 2015)

West marine or any auto parts store usually carries marine gear oil. Check it first then go from there. The big screw is the drain plug and the smaller screw above is the vent hole. Normally new oil is pumped thru the large (bottom) screw until it comes out the vent screw hole. Some oil will come with the pump and adapter.

I've never had to replace my seals but there should be two bolts holding a flange over the seals.


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## The Fever (Jul 1, 2015)

Lukikus2 said:


> West marine or any auto parts store usually carries marine gear oil. Check it first then go from there. The big screw is the drain plug and the smaller screw above is the vent hole. Normally new oil is pumped thru the large (bottom) screw until it comes out the vent screw hole. Some oil will come with the pump and adapter.
> 
> I've never had to replace my seals but there should be two bolts holding a flange over the seals.




I looked into this and it will be done before we go out next weekend. Good looking out.

The boat rebuild is taking a slight break due to some car repairs. Wont be long and I will continue and post pictures.


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## The Fever (Jul 17, 2015)

Alright, Gents! I got back in the saddle recently. As I left y'all I had trouble with the engine ejecting water. I ordered another impeller and you guys were correct. The old one was shot! It did fantastic after some replacement. Last Friday it came in and Saturday morning I had a good friend come in and we took her out to see how she did. I was very pleased. When we got off the water we decided to add a new transom board to mount the boat motor on. The old holes were torn around the edges so I tapped new holes and painted the wood to give it a bit more weathering ability. It didn't take long before we realized we had a leak in the boat Saturday morning and when we got back we identified where it was coming from. A 2 inch crack in the bottom of the boat under the seat was the culprit and dad had patched it with quick setting JB weld. Today I got under there and scraped it clean of paint, debris, and old JB weld and cut out a section of aluminum from a gutter end I got from Lowes. I placed JB weld on the bottom and stuck it to the crack and then covered the new metal thoroughly with more JB weld. This isn't a professional fix but it should buy me some time. I included some photos of other things that need attention also, but are lower on the to do list.


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## The Fever (Jul 17, 2015)

The engine ran well for a good while but suddenly it died on me and would only run on choke. It ran near normally with the choke on but without it I could barely get it to idle. My best guess is its blowing debris loose. I'm going to run some more gas through it to see if it loosens up. Got her up to 
 MPH before it acted up


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## BriarPatch99 (Jul 19, 2015)

How well did you clean out the gas tank... If there is gunk in it  ... You wasting time until you clean it out GOOD!


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## rjcruiser (Jul 20, 2015)

BriarPatch99 said:


> How well did you clean out the gas tank... If there is gunk in it  ... You wasting time until you clean it out GOOD!



Put an inline fuel filter that is see through. ...will save you trouble in the future.


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