# honda 450 forman not runnin good ?



## sea trout

Hello y'all!

I traded for a used Honda 4x4 froreman 450 this summer and I like it a lot!

Before the trade I was informed that the float needle sticks occasionally and it would leak gas if it did. That was accurate and it happens rarely and when it does we tap on carb with wrench and it stops or we turn gas off and let 4wheeler die then restart.

But now it's barely runnin. It's spittin and sputterin and backfires with hardly no power at all and the engine wont gain rpms. 
If I hold throttle halfway then sometimes the engine will spit and sputter and slowly gain rpms. If the engine does get to high rpms it runs ok. But then if you change to a bigger gear it spits and sputters again.
If you try holding the throttle wide open it bogs down, spits and sputters and backfires hard.
I tried a half a can of seafoam in a half a tank of gas. Nuthin changed.

So my wife and I are talking about following a youtube video and rebuild the carb ourselves.

My questions are.
Would y'all agree that the carburetor is the problem and it needs rebuilding?
Does someone who has experienced this before think that my problem is something other than the carb?
Do any real mechanics think that a hubby and wife shade tree mechanic team are out of our league?
Does any one know the best youtube vid to follow?

THANK YOU THANK YOU FOR ADVISE AND GUIDENCE!!

The reason we want to do it ourselves is to save money and limit down time.
This machine needs to be carrying happy kids and dead deer through the woods yesterday!
If y'all think that we will not save much money or time please advise us.
The you tube videos say rebuild your Honda carb in 15 minutes but i'm sure its not THAT easy. But I don't know.
.


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## 660griz

sea trout said:


> My questions are.
> Would y'all agree that the carburetor is the problem and it needs rebuilding?


 Sounds like it. Assuming gas is good (no water in it and fresh) and there are no damaged boots. (carb to engine)


> Does someone who has experienced this before think that my problem is something other than the carb?


 Since it ran o.k. other than a sticky float, I would assume it is a carb issue. 


> Do any real mechanics think that a hubby and wife shade tree mechanic team are out of our league?


 Carbs are not that hard as long as you pay attention to detail. 


> Does any one know the best youtube vid to follow?


 Seems pretty good and should be right up your alley. (Float sticks and jet cleaning.)https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NwREu_MsjFM


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## rjcruiser

I'd do it yourself...carb cleanings are easy and relatively quick.

However, pay close attention to where all the screws go...all the pins go...etc etc.  I usually take the carb off, take a picture or two, start taking apart, take a picture or two, and keep going in that order.

I also soak the carb in carb dip over night.  If you do this, make sure you remove all plastic and rubber pieces as the carb dip will eat them up.  Not required, but I think it helps.

Might also want to change the oil...as sometimes with a stuck needle, gas can get down into the crankcase....and or in the airfilter housing.


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## chadf

I will walk you through the process if you bring it to my shop....I will also walk you through a full "tune up" & change all fluids that you want to change.
About as cheap as you can get.....

Pm if you want to take me up on the offer, with you contact info.

Yes, it's a carb issue from what it sounds like.


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## GoldDot40

Before you take it apart, pour a whole can of Seafoam in the tank and top it off with gas. Run the dickens out of it until you hit reserve. See if it gets better....or clears up all together.


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## devin25gun

Yes easy on foreman.  Remove air box and remove carb and flip over in frame and rebuild in frame.  Have done alot like this in field or at home.  Prob has dirt in the primary jet restricting flow of fuel.  With issue of tapping on carb a sticking needle is not good.  Sometimes have to hone out the needle seat with a qtip with valve grinding compound to get it to seat properly as the brass will weat or tarnish with age and build up deposits with gas and long storage.  Good luck


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## 660griz

chadf said:


> I will walk you through the process if you bring it to my shop....I will also walk you through a full "tune up" & change all fluids that you want to change.
> About as cheap as you can get.....
> 
> Pm if you want to take me up on the offer, with you contact info.
> 
> Yes, it's a carb issue from what it sounds like.



Now, that is a good deal.


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## sea trout

WOW you guys thanks for all the awesome responses!!!

its 8:15 and I just got home from work and my wife has already started on it but she's at home depot right now getting something. She sain something about a spring and a stripped bolt and I havn't spoken to her in person yet. but i'm sure she'll be home soon cause two toddlers are with her.

THANKS chadf for that offer!!!! AWSOME!!!

I'LL KEEP Y'ALL INFORMED! THANKS AGAIN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## rjcruiser

Hope you were able to find a bolt at Home Depot.  Lot of the metric stuff you'll have to find at an autoparts store.  Not sure about the springs...depending on if it is in the carb or not, that could be tough to find too (your Honda dealer will have them or online will have them).

One tool that I've found to be invaluable is an impact screw driver.  Seems like that thing will never strip a screw and will always get them out.  About $10-20 at a local auto parts store.


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## flingin1

Sounds like u need a new needle valve. Seems to be dumping to much fuel and making run rough. I had a 300 fourtrax do it I fix it and it never skipped a beat.


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## 440Mopar

Just a tip.   On carb screws place screwdriver on screw and whack with hammer it loosens them everytime with out rouding the head


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## 1gr8bldr

None of the above, sorry guys. Your machine has put itself into "limp mode". The computer has sensed a problem. You will need to match the blink code on the dash with the problem in the manual. I suspect you have an angle sensor gone bad. Not a big issue. But you can reset your computer and you may go 6 months before it triggers again. Lets see..... thinking..... Turn key off , hold down both up and down gear buttons, let off, immediately turn key on, then hit up, down up. You will hear it doing something, like a little motor meshing gears, or somrthing like that.  It is kind of like tying a tie, if I did not tell you right, let me know and I will go sit on mine and record what works. It should be easy to find on the net. I also can pull the exact steps from my manual. So let us know


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## 7Mag Hunter

Change the plug first......
I had a Honda 300 4Trax that was finicky about
plugs....It would run great, then 15 mins later, it
was hard to start or even stall out .....
I would change the spark plug and it would run
perfect again.......


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## rjcruiser

You changed plugs every 15 minutes? 

That sounds like a result of a different issue. 


Seatrout....how about an update?


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## 7Mag Hunter

rjcruiser said:


> You changed plugs every 15 minutes?
> 
> That sounds like a result of a different issue.
> 
> 
> Seatrout....how about an update?





My Honda would run fine for months, then for no 
apparent reason, it would foul the plug......
Just saying, carb problems like he explained "could"
foul his plug and cause hard, rough run conditions,,,,
Simple, and cheap to do.....Change the plug first......


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## chadf

I'd also like to hear an update, seatrout


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## little rascal

*my recon*

was doing what u described. I went thru what I thought was dirty carb/bad gas etc. Drained the tank twice. It ran better, however still spit sputtered and backfired.
 "I finally changed to new spark plug and you could see the top of the old plug where the threads go in the spark boot were a little worn". New plug ran fine never skipped again.
Then a few weeks later I had fuel leaking out of the overflow on bottom of the carb. Was told it was a stuck float valve. Took the carb off and cleaned on it, still leaked. Also my petcock will not turn off. Finally, once again blew some gentle air thru fuel inlet and up from overflow hose and the leaking stopped. Tuned the idle mix and idle setting and runs great for now. Added a cheap fuel cutoff under the seat too. 

Couldn't believe this,
a new carb is 63.00(not bad), a fuel petcock is 75.00 (ridiculous). A new float and valve would be about 46.00 online. That's why I work on mine too if I can. guess I'll be at it again when it stops up next time.


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## PappyHoel

chadf said:


> I will walk you through the process if you bring it to my shop....I will also walk you through a full "tune up" & change all fluids that you want to change.
> About as cheap as you can get.....
> 
> Pm if you want to take me up on the offer, with you contact info.
> 
> Yes, it's a carb issue from what it sounds like.



Generous offer.  PM coming.


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## chadf

PappyHoel said:


> Generous offer.  PM coming.


Never got pm....
But more than willing to help !
Lmk

Also, op get this fixed ?


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