# Snake skin on a bow question



## dawg2 (Feb 20, 2015)

I just ordered a hickory 64" traditional recurve "self-finish" bow from Ringing Rock.  It is bare wood and needs sanding and sealing.  This will be the first bow I have sealed so I had a couple of questions:

1) I was planning on using spar urethane since it is UV resistant and water resisitant.  Are there any issues using spar urethane on limbs that will be flexing?

2) I have some copperhead skins that I plan on putting on the limbs.  They were tanned using the alcohol / glycerin method.  What would be the best way to glue them to the limbs AND should I put spar urethane over them once they are mounted to the limbs?


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## Philbow (Feb 20, 2015)

Spar varnish will work, it's what I use. I've only used dried snake skins for bow backing so I can't help on a tanned skin. But I would glue the skin, probably with a "good" wood glue, and then varnish/finish the bow.


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## Nugefan (Feb 20, 2015)

put the snake skins up for a bit , they will get stiff again as the glycerine evaporates from them ...I don't think a " tanned " skin will glue up ....JMO ....


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## dawg2 (Feb 20, 2015)

Philbow said:


> Spar varnish will work, it's what I use. I've only used dried snake skins for bow backing so I can't help on a tanned skin. But I would glue the skin, probably with a "good" wood glue, and then varnish/finish the bow.


I was debating whether it would be best to 
1) urethane the entire bow first, then glue the skins
2) Glue the skins directly to bare wood then seal.



Nugefan said:


> put the snake skins up for a bit , they will get stiff again as the glycerine evaporates from them ...I don't think a " tanned " skin will glue up ....JMO ....



They have been sitting out for a year.  If they are still a little sticky, I may wash them in dawn and let them dry again.  I wish I had just salted / boraxed these now... 

I do have a nice timber rattler in the freezer, so that may end up being the one I use.


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## Nicodemus (Feb 20, 2015)

I`d use hoof-hide glue to bond the skins to bare wood. You`d get a good bond that way. I`d also remove all traces of any chemical from the skins first.


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## NCHillbilly (Feb 20, 2015)

Spar urethane is fine, several thin coats. I glue on skins to bare wood, then finish over them. I don't know how the tanned skins will work or stick, I always use just air-dried skins. I usually remove the loose scales with masking tape before finishing, too. As Nic said, hide glue works well, and has a good suck to it. Knox unflavored gelatin is a good-quality hide glue. I've used Titebond 3 wood glue before with good results, too. Just make sure to get all the air pockets out, if you have to, you can poke a hole with a pin and squirt a little more glue in there.


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## Todd Cook (Feb 20, 2015)

Spar urethane works very well on a bow. I spray it; multiple light coats. Make sure you have the bow warm and the room temp plenty warm. urethane won't dry hardly at all in the cold.

I personally would spray the bow first, then apply the skins. Titebond or hide glue will both work good. Very lightly scuff the bows back with some 220 paper once the urethane is cured.

It might do fine to glue directly to the bare wood, I've never done it that way. Hickory needs to be as dry as you can possibly get it before you finish it. Then you want to seal it really good. It absorbs moisture worse than other woods.


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## SELFBOW (Feb 20, 2015)

I use tru oil for a sealer and contact cement for the skins. I also only skin and dry them w no additives.


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## SELFBOW (Feb 20, 2015)

Paint the back of bow black first so the skins have better color....


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## Nicodemus (Feb 20, 2015)

You can make really strong hoof glue with Knox unflavored gelatin.


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## dawg2 (Feb 20, 2015)

NCHillbilly said:


> Spar urethane is fine, several thin coats. I glue on skins to bare wood, then finish over them. I don't know how the tanned skins will work or stick, I always use just air-dried skins. I usually remove the loose scales with masking tape before finishing, too. As Nic said, hide glue works well, and has a good suck to it. Knox unflavored gelatin is a good-quality hide glue. I've used Titebond 3 wood glue before with good results, too. Just make sure to get all the air pockets out, if you have to, you can poke a hole with a pin and squirt a little more glue in there.


I did a batch in the alcohol / glycerin recipe to see how they turned out.  They are extremely flexible, but I am thinking they won't stick well.



Nicodemus said:


> You can make really strong hoof glue with Knox unflavored gelatin.



I have some hoof glue I got for building wooden arrows.  I do know not to use it in the house 



SELFBOW said:


> Paint the back of bow black first so the skins have better color....


 That is a good idea.  I did notice the skins are much paler once dried and loose scales are off.  Did you use an oil or latex paint?


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## Nicodemus (Feb 20, 2015)

dawg2 said:


> I did a batch in the alcohol / glycerin recipe to see how they turned out.  They are extremely flexible, but I am thinking they won't stick well.
> 
> 
> 
> ...





Yea, no matter if you use chopped up deer hooves and scrap rawhide, or the Knox, do it outside. Both smell the same.

For the Knox, mix 3 envelopes with 1/2 cup of cold water. Bring it to a boil, then take it off the heat. That`s all there is to it. Ready to use.


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## Bill Mc (Feb 20, 2015)

Ask Donnie how he did it.


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## Skunkhound (Feb 21, 2015)

I would put the skins on after a couple coats of finish myself. I'd also wash them with dish soap to get any tanning chemicals off too. If you use tightbond, they'll be easier to work with if they're a little wet. As far as painting first, copperhead skins are really thin, so paint will have an effect on the way they turn out. Copperhead skins on black limbs look good, but they will be darker and look more grey. Personally I think they look best over lighter colored limbs.


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## dtala (Feb 21, 2015)

SELFBOW said:


> Paint the back of bow black first so the skins have better color....



DO NOT PAINT BLACK TO PUT COPPERHEAD SKINS OVER...it ruins the copperhead patter and looks terrible. Been there and done that ONCE!!!


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## Tailfeather (Feb 21, 2015)

I glue them over bare wood using titebond 3 and finish with tru oil. Also not sure how well they'll bond with the glycol, etc.


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## NCHillbilly (Feb 21, 2015)

I have tried a layer of finish before gluing on the skins, but it works much better glueing them to the bare wood. Some brown stain/dye behind copperheads looks good, but I wouldn't paint it black.


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## dawg2 (Feb 21, 2015)

dtala said:


> DO NOT PAINT BLACK TO PUT COPPERHEAD SKINS OVER...it ruins the copperhead patter and looks terrible. Been there and done that ONCE!!!





NCHillbilly said:


> I have tried a layer of finish before gluing on the skins, but it works much better glueing them to the bare wood. Some brown stain/dye behind copperheads looks good, but I wouldn't paint it black.



OK, black paint is out fo rthe copperhead skins.  I'll stain them them first.


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