# Anyone really familiar with Stihl Farm Boss chainsaws?



## Rebel 6 (Feb 17, 2015)

Mine is an older MS290 18" Farm Boss.  After smoking 2 chains, I realized that they weren't getting oiled.  By the 2nd chain, I ruined my bar.  Replaced the bar with a new Stihl bar today, and discovered that it isn't pumping oil to the bar properly.  Without the bar installed, and the engine running, a little oil comes out of the port, but it's not really under pressure.  Also, while sitting there in storage, the bar oil drains out of the reservoir into my carry case.  That should have been my very first clue.

Now, it seems that I need to replace something in the oil pump.  And I wonder if the reservoir leak is related to that, or if it is a separate problem.

Has anyone else been through this, and could give me some advice as to which parts I might need to replace?  Or might someone know of a website that explains what do do?


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## The Longhunter (Feb 17, 2015)

Two different problems.

The oil is not supposed to come out under any real pressure.

This is for adjusting the flow.

http://homeguides.sfgate.com/fix-chain-oil-problems-stihl-chain-saw-ms290-101684.html

I suspect the cleaning process will address your problem, but if not these are the instructions for adjusting the output.

To address the leakage, you need to determine (or tell us) exactly where the oil is leaking from.  Could be leaking from several points, some of which have nothing to do with oil pump.

I wouldn't mess with the oil pump except as a last resort.  My Stihl guy tells me that that is seldom a problem.

My solution is to nearly run the saw out of oil before I put it away.


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## flyfisher1 (Feb 17, 2015)

I have an MS290.  This happens all the time to mine and it's caused by sawdust that gets in places it shouldn't be.  Remove the twist cap to the chain lube reservoir, remove the black O-Ring and clean out all the sawdust and debris.  There is most likely sawdust in between this O-Ring and the cap or sawdust stuck to the mating surfaces of the reservoir preventing an oil tight seal.  This has always worked for me, hope this helps.



Rebel 6 said:


> Also, while sitting there in storage, the bar oil drains out of the reservoir into my carry case.


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## Rebel 6 (Feb 18, 2015)

Thanks for the advice above.  Before reading it, and after a ton of unsuccessful research on the internet, I took it apart.  It was leaking where the built-in grommet plugs the pickup tube coming out of the oil reservoir.  I was concerned that tube was cracked, so I removed it.  It is solid, and was not clogged.  Apparently, crud worked its way into the sealing surface of that grommet.  I let it sit overnight, and no oil has leaked out.

The worm gear for the oil pump looks good to me, so I'm still not sure why enough oil wasn't coming out to lubricate the new bar.  Maybe it just takes several minutes of running, before it works the oil works its way completely into the bar.  Or maybe me turning the oil volume screw wide open will fix that.

Later today, I will put it all back together, run it again and see if it is fixed.  If not, then I suspect the outlet tube from the oil pump is clogged.  The tube itself, because I did probe the outlet hole and clean the channel (where it meets the hole in the bar).


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## The Longhunter (Feb 18, 2015)

Rebel 6 said:


> Later today, I will put it all back together, run it again and see if it is fixed.  If not, then I suspect the outlet tube from the oil pump is clogged.  The tube itself, because I did probe the outlet hole and clean the channel (where it meets the hole in the bar).



Today may not be the best day to test the oil pump unless you keep it indoors overnight.

Oil is going to be a little thick.

FWIW, I spritz my chain with a little Kroil when I begin because it will penetrate between the links, and clean and lubricate them.


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## Rebel 6 (Feb 18, 2015)

The Longhunter said:


> Today may not be the best day to test the oil pump unless you keep it indoors overnight.
> 
> Oil is going to be a little thick.
> 
> FWIW, I spritz my chain with a little Kroil when I begin because it will penetrate between the links, and clean and lubricate them.



I wish Kroil was $5/gal.  That is the BEST thread penetrant there is, bar none, does a fine job of removing rust from metal, works wonders on cleaning guns, and is a great lubricant, too.

Yeah, I will wait for a warmer day to find out if my chain now receives oil from the saw.


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## Gadestroyer74 (Feb 18, 2015)

I have a older 029 that saw has been a beast ! I run a 20 inch bar on it.  Wish it would pull a 28 just don't have enough woo pow. Back when I use to log we used huskies. One ting we always did every day was take chain off and run a fine tip screw driver that would get down in the bar grove and clean it of any debris..


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## Rebel 6 (Feb 18, 2015)

Wild Turkey said:


> Yep got one.
> They dont like sawdust buildup.
> Heavy as lead.
> Rev too slow.
> ...



I can't argue with those points.  I bought mine used about 10 years ago for $200.  It has served me well.  I can't afford to buy another saw, so this one will have to do, and some maintenance and repairs once in a while are the cost I have to pay.  And it does cut like a you-know-what, when it's working well.


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## 95g atl (Feb 21, 2015)

I have a farm boss ms290 w/20" bar.
Haven't had an issue with mine, sorry I couldn't help.
Thanks to the other posters with the info, just in case mine ever gives me trouble.


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## Rebel 6 (Feb 21, 2015)

Well, today I got it running again.  I think I have fixed the oil leak, and I know I got the bar oiling problem fixed.  I removed the oil pump, blew out everything with compressed air (didn't see any junk blow out), and replaced the o-ring on the bar oil reservoir filler cap.  After setting for a few days, it had started leaking again, prior to me replacing that o-ring.

It cuts like a you-know-what again.  When I got done cutting today, the Stihl said, "What 80' sweetgum?  I didn't feel nuthin' ".


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## tree cutter 08 (Feb 21, 2015)

Most of mine will drip after setting for a while. Been running burnt motor oil for several years now. With price of bar oil now probably save 6 or 700 dollars a year.


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## Bilge Rat LT 20 (Feb 22, 2015)

The leak can be caused the oil heating up when the saw is running building up pressure in the tank. After use open the cap for a second to release pressure.

The issue is caused by the tank vent located behind the bar, the brass plug with the small hole in the center. In the hole is a spring loaded ball poke it lightly to help clear it.

Every once in a while empty the oil tank and put some premix in it. Slosh it around and pour it out to remove crud, sawdust that gets into it and clogs the filter.
If it has an adjustment on the bottom turn the pump up to wide open.  It will only pump so much anyway and more oil helps the chain last.
Also keep the chain sharp. Learn to properly sharpen it and don't let it get dull before touching it up.
It should throw chips,oatmeal flakes. When it makes sawdust and takes pressure to cut you have waited a little to long before sharpening.
Do it often and it only takes a few strokes per cutter.
The rakers need to be checked every few sharpenings. They only need a stroke or 2 if at all.

Run it 40 to1 for more power and better lube on the crank bearings.
50 to 1 is EPA driven with no concern for the saw's well being.
There are 8 saws in the garage some 20yrs old that have never been into except carb kits, rubber parts and filters. Good 2 stroke oil keeps them in good shape.

Clean the muffler screen with gas to keep it clear. A light muffler mod will make those saws run stronger and cooler too.
Learn to properly adjust the carb and saws will last a long time.


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## Rebel 6 (Feb 22, 2015)

^^  Thanks for the excellent advice, *Bilge Rat LT 20*.  I will look into all of that.

I never thought more pre-mix oil would give it more power, but that makes perfect sense.  That makes it leaner (fuel/air ratio), which generally equates to more power.  Plus, the engine gets a little more oil, which makes it last longer.


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## Rebel 6 (Feb 22, 2015)

tree cutter 08 said:


> Most of mine will drip after setting for a while. Been running burnt motor oil for several years now. With price of bar oil now probably save 6 or 700 dollars a year.



I used to use old motor oil too, until someone pointed out to me that doing so eats up chains.  Why?  Because used motor oil is "spent", and full of tiny metal particles (which is the reason why we change motor oil).  And bar oil is clean and of the proper viscosity for a chain (which is not an engine).


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## The Longhunter (Feb 22, 2015)

Rebel 6 said:


> And bar oil is clean and of the proper viscosity for a chain (which is not an engine).



Think about it --motor oil is intended to flow freely through an engine, and not stick to anything.  In fact, "sticking" is a problem.

Bar oil intended to stick to the bar and chain.

At least that's the way my Stihl man explained it.  

I'm tight as Dick's hat band, but I don't go cheap on any oil.  Car, boat, chainsaw, massage -- potential downside is too much for me.


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## tree cutter 08 (Feb 22, 2015)

I run saws for a living. I can't tell a difference in chain life or wear in bar either. Usually get around 3 months to a saw chain unless hit a big nail or rock. That's running about 5 gallons of gas through 3 saws each week. Not unusual to burn 2 gallons a day. The way I see it if the oil is good enough for my 10,000 dollar diesel engines it's good enough for my saws. No binding, overheating, or early wear. Never wore out a chain from lack of oil. The last 2 660 stihl saws I've bought have never had a drop of bar oil in them. There approaching 4 years old and never been worked on in any way.


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## Rebel 6 (Feb 22, 2015)

tree cutter 08 said:


> I run saws for a living. I can't tell a difference in chain life or wear in bar either. Usually get around 3 months to a saw chain unless hit a big nail or rock. That's running about 5 gallons of gas through 3 saws each week. Not unusual to burn 2 gallons a day. The way I see it if the oil is good enough for my 10,000 dollar diesel engines it's good enough for my saws. No binding, overheating, or early wear. Never wore out a chain from lack of oil. The last 2 660 stihl saws I've bought have never had a drop of bar oil in them. There approaching 4 years old and never been worked on in any way.



Well, so much for my theory, then.


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