# wallowed out allen screw help



## habersham hammer (Jun 3, 2010)

I have a Remington model 7 - 7mm saum that has a rear trigger guard screw  (allen head) that is wallowed out and an allen wrench will not turn it but slips.What is the best way to get that screw out so I can replace it?


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## coyotebgone (Jun 3, 2010)

get an ez out. you may need to grind the very tip off to keep it from bottoming out before it bites.


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## AccUbonD (Jun 3, 2010)

I've got all kinds of ideas but without seeing it the easiest to try would get a ball peen (pein) hammer and tap the head of the allen bolt (if you got room) if not use a punch. Then you might have to tap the allen wrench back into the bolt. This usually works if the metal from the bolt is flared out and up.


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## habersham hammer (Jun 3, 2010)

Could I take a dremel tool and make a slot in it so I could use a screwdriver ?


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## rip18 (Jun 3, 2010)

habersham hammer said:


> Could I take a dremel tool and make a slot in it so I could use a screwdriver ?



You could try.  But the easy out, sounds like the best plan to me.  

You can find them at Lowes, Home Depot, Sears, any hardware store... http://www.toolprice.com/category/screwextractors/


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## gtparts (Jun 3, 2010)

EZ-OUT is your last....repeat, LAST choice!!! 


Should it break, you are in a real mess. They are hardened, so they bite well, BUT they are inelastic (read, "brittle"). You don't want to go there,....at least not first.

I would seek out a gunsmith or a precision machinist to work on this if the weapon has any real value to you.


If you choose to proceed yourself:

 Many industrial supply houses carry HSS left-hand twist drill bits. Flood the Allen screw with penetrating lubricant and let sit. Start small and absolutely dead center. A suitable vise and reversible, slow-speed drill-press can be invaluable.
Many times the heat generated from drilling and the torque applied by the bit will back the screw out.

Others may have ideas that have worked for them, so I'm not saying the LH drill is the best solution.

The point is, there are options before you get to an EZ-OUT.

Wishing you the best of luck!!


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## tommyjoe (Jun 3, 2010)

If it is a US size , ie 1/8 , 3/16 7/32, try a metric size. It may be tight enough to take up the slack.
Tom


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## gtparts (Jun 3, 2010)

AccUbonD said:


> I've all kinds of ideas but without seeing it the easiest to try would get a ball peen (pein) hammer and tap the head of the allen bolt (if you got room) if not use a punch. Then you might have to tap the allen wrench back into the bolt. This usually works if the metal from the bolt is flared out and up.





habersham hammer said:


> Could I take a dremel tool and make a slot in it so I could use a screwdriver ?



Peening the Allen screw may give you enough "shoulder" to try the Allen wrench again. The Dremel may work OK, but be careful of cutting into the guard. A jeweler has the tools and skill to do this IF they will work on firearms.


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## gtparts (Jun 3, 2010)

One other option may be to epoxy, solder, or micro-weld a screw to the top of the buggered up screw and backing it out with a small socket or wrench or screwdriver.

BTW, if the tip of the Allen wrench is slightly rounded, you might try grinding the tip down to "sharpen" the edges or cutting the tip off slightly.


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## ScottD (Jun 3, 2010)

How about coat the allen wrench in epoxy - insert into screw head and let it set up.

While you are waiting for it to set - order a new screw and wrench.


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## gtparts (Jun 3, 2010)

ScottD said:


> How about coat the allen wrench in epoxy - insert into screw head and let it set up.
> 
> While you are waiting for it to set - order a new screw and wrench.



Superglue Gel might work as well. The old screw needs replacing anyway.


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## Supercracker (Jun 3, 2010)

gtparts said:


> Superglue Gel might work as well. The old screw needs replacing anyway.



I can't count how many stripped allen heads on race bikes I've superglued a wrench into get them out. Works every time. 

Might not be as big of an issue on a rifle, but be sure you clean the inside of it out with acetone first to get any oils out so the glue can stick good. 

A couple of times when I didn't have any superglue I have hammered a torx head into the hole to get it out.


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## contender* (Jun 3, 2010)

One way I have got a stripped allen head out is to find a metric set of wrenches (or standard if the allen head is metric) and find one that is close to going in the "slot". You may have to take a hammer and peck it in but if you can get it in there tightly it should come out.


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## jglenn (Jun 3, 2010)

supercracker has it... find a torx head just a tad larger and hammer it into the hole and then turn it out.. even a star drive will work on occasion


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## watson1shot (Jun 3, 2010)

jglenn said:


> supercracker has it... find a torx head just a tad larger and hammer it into the hole and then turn it out.. even a star drive will work on occasion




trying that might be your best bet. if that dont work you can try a left handed drill bit, have used them alot ,when it drills into the bolt it will start backing the bolt out.


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## Gunplumber Mike (Jun 4, 2010)

I wouldn't insert anything in the screw body that is harder than the screw, easyout or drill bit.  If you have to take it to a gunsmith you will be making his job harder.  If you aren't careful you can turn a $25 problem into a major headache.  The most feared words in gunsmithing are "I worked on it first".

You sound like you can handle this yourself if you are careful.  First I would get a vise or a friend who does a good impression of a vise.  Get a screwdriver bit kit of fairly cheap persuasion that includes both allen and torx heads.  Put the largest bit that you can into the screw head and pound it relentlessly with a heavy hammer for several minutes.  You are trying to shape the bit to the hole in the screw head *and* to loosen the screw through vibration.  Put the screw driver onto the bit and give it a try, while pressing down as hard as you can.  If this doen't work after a time or two go to your plan B, which is to cut a slot with the dremel and a jewelers bit or dental bit.  Plan C requires the most patience and steadiest hand:  Use the dremel to eat away the entire head of the screw.  Once you have taken out the other action screws you will be able to lift the action out of the stock and remove the offending screw with vicegrips.


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## dawg2 (Jun 4, 2010)

ScottD said:


> How about coat the allen wrench in epoxy - insert into screw head and let it set up.
> 
> While you are waiting for it to set - order a new screw and wrench.



I would use epoxy, it works.  If it doesn't then you can use the ezout option.


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## rkwrichard (Jun 5, 2010)

habersham hammer said:


> Could I take a dremel tool and make a slot in it so I could use a screwdriver ?



Using the wrong tool or wrong size tool may be what got you in this situation in the first place. Go and buy the right size tool and fix this once and you may never have this issue again.


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## Gunplumber Mike (Jun 5, 2010)

I don't think you can blame this on the consumer.  The screw heads are too soft and so are most of the Chinese tools that you buy.  Hex head screws are a constant problem to the shooting public and shouldn't be used on a firearm.  I had to drill out another set today for a customer with the same problem.


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## Dead Eye Eddy (Jun 6, 2010)

Gunplumber Mike said:


> Plan C requires the most patience and steadiest hand:  Use the dremel to eat away the entire head of the screw.  Once you have taken out the other action screws you will be able to lift the action out of the stock and remove the offending screw with vicegrips.



Forget the dremel.  Just use a drill bit a little smaller than the head of the screw.  Drill into it until the head pops off the shaft.  Then follow GM's advice about the visegrips.  I've done this several times with scope mounts and have never failed to remove the stripped screw or messed up the threads in the hole.


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