# Need advice on replacing running boards for a boat trailer.



## mbhall (May 22, 2011)

A friend of mine needs to replace the running boards on his boat trailer.  The boards need to be replaced and the salt water has eaten the screws up pretty good as well.

I figured that someone here would have some good advice on the process.  Is making your own running boards even a good idea??? 

Our idea was to purchase some lumber; make the boards; then launch the boat and install the new running boards.

Is this a bad idea or will it work?

Thanks


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## RPM (May 22, 2011)

If you're talking about bunk boards, I replaced them on an old trailer I had. 

For what it's worth I would used:

pressure treated 2"x?" the same size that's on it
rolls of marine bunk carpet - marine supply store or online
monel staples to attach the carpet ?Lowes/Home Depot
galv. lag bolts/washers to mount them after drilling pilot holes

I blocked my boat up in my driveway using a plank to left it off the trailer.  If anything goes sideways its in your yard.

I don't know what it's like where you launch his boat but if I tried doing that at one of the ramps on NJ's Raritan Bay I think there might have been a riot.  There was too much traffic to be working on the trailer and to have the boat sitting there taking up space blocking other boaters. 

I'm going to miss my boat and the bay with ramps 20-40 mins. away.


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## T.P. (May 23, 2011)

Go during the week, hardly anyone there. Shouldn't take an hour to change them out. I see folks doing it all the time. Have the bunks ready to install and tools ready to work and you'll be done in no time.


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## Wild Turkey (May 23, 2011)

most trailers have oak runners. If the bolts are corroded, jack the boat and cut them off at home and install new bolts. When you get to the ramp most of the hard work is done. pull the bolts, bolt on new runners and carpet.


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## secdawgs (May 23, 2011)

Like stated above, I did mine at the ramp during the week, took my cordless stuff and was done in no time.


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## Bassin026 (May 23, 2011)

*bunk boards*

I have been using  high-density polyethelene  board's  made by TGIG here in North Atlanta, I don't know how they hold up in salt water but they have a web site:
www.ultimatebunkboards.com/catalog1.html
the gentleman's name is Joe Bove his e-mail is:
Joe Bove<tgiginc@yahoo.com>
I absolutely think they are great, and not expensive at all
His telephone is: 678-770-5236


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## duckone (May 25, 2011)

*free those rusted bolts*

First things first, you have to be able to get the old rusted bolts out of the current bunk(?) boards.  The very best stuff that I've used to loosen rusted nuts and bolts is Aerokroil.  If this stuff won't loosen them up you'll probably have to cut or grind them off.

http://www.kanolabs.com/

Second, I've never fished in salt water so your experience may actually serve you better.  However, whenever I replace a fastener of any type on my boat or trailer I use stainless steel fasteners.  They are available at the usual big box do-it-yourself stores and at West Marine.  West Marine's prices are definitely retail but they have what you need and you can just make a phone call and have them delivered to your door.  Considering the price of gasoline these days and the value of your time it may be best to just order what you need and bite the bullet on the freight charge.

Third, is the hull of your friend's boat made of aluminum?  If so, I'd be careful about using pressure treated lumber to make new bunk boards.  Fortunately I haven't learned this from experience, but I've read (and been told by a boat builder) that the chemicals used to treat pressure treated wood will react with aluminum over the long haul.  Like I said, I haven't experienced this first hand but you may want to research this further before building the new bunks.

Lastly, I replaced the bunk boards on my galvanized trailer last year.  I used a floor jack and a block of wood between the jack and the boat to raise the boat a few inches off of the trailer at the back.  I removed the 25 hp outboard before jacking to minimize the weight that had to be raised.  I then placed some spare concrete blocks that I had left over from a previous project plus a wood buffer under the hull and lowered the jack.  Then I moved to the front of the boat and repeated the process.  This isn't as good as having the boat completely off of the trailer but it allows you plenty of time to address whatever other issue(s) may turn up when you remove the current bunk boards.  I removed my bunk board brackets because the zinc coating had been overwhelmed long ago.  Then I was able to take a steel brush to them, reprime and then repaint.  There just isn't time to do that in a parking lot.

Anyway, good luck with the trailer refresh.  You, and especially your friend, will be pleased with yourselves and have one less worry on your mind when you are finished.


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## JohnK (May 25, 2011)

I put the ultimate bunk boards on my trailer last week. They are good and slick but my boat does not make complete contact on the surface of the boards for the whole length or width. The boards are at nominal size lumber so I don't think it is the boards. This is a tracker trailer and boat and I just think the angle is wrong on the trailer supports, it never fit flat and I just couldn't tell because of the carpet.
I wonder if this will affect the boat hull over time if I'm wrong?
Ultimate bunk boards gave me great service and I'm happy with them. Loading and unloading is much easier. I pre-drilled the back holes and unloaded at the ramp and mounted the new boards in the lot. It took about 15 minutes tops.


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