# Project Marlin 336-Pt.1



## Speakeasy (Apr 5, 2009)

Okay, I made the jump yesterday and bought a Marlin 336 ('73 model, 3030) from a dealer I trust. I probably overpaid, but the gun's in working order. Rough finish, stock's got good refinish potential, but I've got to plan this project. First question is most important, 2nd and 3rd are just for "planning" purposes. I'd appreciate y'all's input and advice.
1. Replacing the rear site. Rear site is non-functional. At first I thought I was just missing the elevator, but I think what's left on the gun is just part of the rear site. I've read that installing a peep site may be good for this gun, but they're pricey, and want to go stock, for now. Eventually will scope it, but would really like an iron site on it before I take it to the range for my first fire.  (I'm also missing all the screws that go where the scope would mount) Can you suggest a supplier and do I need special tools to replace it?
2. Gun Finish: It appears that I can prep well enough to re-blue this gun (will know more after diving into that step), but I've been reading about DuraKote. Do you think DuraKote would be a viable option for this Marlin?
3. Stock: There are some synthetic stocks listed for the 336. Has anyone had experience with any, and would you recommend them?  I'm sorry for the long post, but look forward to y'all's expertise in planning this project.


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## earl (Apr 5, 2009)

Numrichs or Brownells  will get you started on parts. Google gun parts for more . I am just getting started also but between the folks here and the internet ,you can find every thing.


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## seaweaver (Apr 5, 2009)

Congrats!
You can find the rear sight just about any where....that said there were many different types for the different years...but I would use what make the best picture for you.
What Year is the Gun?
http://oldguns.net/sn_php/marlinlookup.php
I just cut down a 336 to make a youth "spike horn"..but held off on the stock so I can play w/ it.
Mine was in coarse condition and I wet sanded w/ 600 and steel wool and then polished the metal w/ heavy compound and a 8" wheel I use on boats. I re blued w/ the last drops of a bottle of Birchwood Casy  cold blue and got a lot back. I then tried to finish w/ hopps #9 which completely failed to do anything.
I would pull the wood to work the metal as the cold blue asks to be washed w/ cold water in between applications.
http://forum.gon.com/showthread.php?t=328408
Make sure to take before and after pics.
cw


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## Speakeasy (Apr 5, 2009)

Thanks for the tips and PM's y'all. Cleaned the action today; barrel bore looks decent; I'll get pics before doing any more. Mine's a '73, judging from the 27 digits beginning the serial number. Great stuff on Marlinowners.com. 10-4 on pulling the wood, and (at your recommendation) I'm going to contact Marlin to get $ on their doing the blueing. I'm stoked. thanks, again; I really appreciate it. -s


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## WSB (Apr 6, 2009)

Here are some camo stocks I have thought about ordering.


http://www.e-gunparts.com/DisplayAd.asp?chrProductSKU=813100D&chrSuperSKU=813100&MC


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## Speakeasy (Apr 6, 2009)

Thanks, Man. Talked to Marlin today; plan on shipping the metal to them this week for blueing/tune-up, mebbe the sight. I'll keep my stock & forend, strip them down, then decide about replacing. -s


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## seaweaver (Apr 7, 2009)

Now....Marlin slapped shop wood on mine to test fire after they blued it...and sent the shop wood back to me....
I cannot guarantee the same will happen again!
And another note: The reblue looks so good....I have not attempted to remove the shop wood to replace the original wood back on.
That front barrel band scares me to pull off w/o scratching.
If you need a new bulls eye ask now and they may toss one in the box. Just attach a note to the gun.
cw


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## Speakeasy (Apr 7, 2009)

Yeah, that's a good thought.  Wonder if I should tackle my wood before sending it to them? And 10-4 on the rear sight. What do you mean, "bulls eye"? Do you mean a ring sight? That would be cool. I appreciate the info, Seaweaver; thanks! -s


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## seaweaver (Apr 8, 2009)

The bulls eye is the white spacer w/ a black dot in the center embedded in the stock. A lot of people think that's where you drill  for a sling stud. It's a trade mark.
One way or another, bands and screws have to be worked to put the wood on so there will alway be an opportunity to scratch something. That said...I would keep the wood and refinish while they have the gun.You could get lucky... The reblue turn around will  take about 60 days....Make sure not to add finish in any area that fits to metal or you will be cutting it out to get a proper fit.
cw


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## Speakeasy (Apr 8, 2009)

Thanks, seaweaver, I appreciate the input. Shot some "before" pics yesterday, dismantled and shipped it off to MFC. That little crack in the forearm (as it turns out) is a complete split. Checked several sites, no plain forearms to be had, so I'll launch into a wood repair job before starting the refinish. Good input on another thread on proper gluing techniques, and jury-rigged some spacers for the inside before cleaning to glue it. dunno how durable it'll be, but the front band and rear fitting to the body seem to hold it together, if I can just get the glue to hold during the refinish. Pieces have a nice tight fit together, 'long as I don't fiddle with it too much before glue and clamping.  More to come! -s


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## Speakeasy (Apr 8, 2009)

One other think about the bull's eye.  There are two on my stock, but I've only seen one on other pictures I've seen. The front-most bull's eye is where someone mounted the rear sling stud.  Should I replace it?  I'd like to have a sling on this rifle.  -s


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## Speakeasy (Apr 13, 2009)

-Shipped off to Marlin last week. I'll close this thread, give a report when I hear from them, good/bad or indifferent. Thanx for the input, y'all. Well, only option I've got it to delete the thread. Guess I'll let 'er ride. -s


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