# Project: 2N resurrection



## Lonesome00 (Oct 29, 2014)

I picked this 2N up a few months back and have not done much with it since. The deal I made with the seller was I wanted to see it run first. He got it running and it ran great. For a little while anyway... 

The fuel system was so clogged up I am amazed it ran at all. So the first thing I did was pull the carb and fuel valve. The carb was so bad it had stalactites inside. I am not kidding. I have seen carbs that have sat for a while but this was a new one on me. The sludge inside gummed up everything. I soaked, scrubbed, cleaned and repeated until it looked new. Now I just have to track down a rebuild kit. 

The fuel valve was the same way and it received the same treatment. Isn't there suppose to be a filter on the portion that goes in the tank? 

I pulled the hood off so I can address the other issues. I do not see any problems with the tank other than a need for a good flushing. I will address that and the sheet metal next.


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## Lonesome00 (Oct 29, 2014)

These parts were so caked up I could not distinguish the individual pieces. The canister containing the filter element in that condition now and I am working to clean it up.


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## rjcruiser (Oct 29, 2014)

Looking good.

If you've cleaned up the carb well and the seals are good, no need for a rebuild kit imho.

Also, isn't that an external gas filter in the third pic by the alternator?


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## Lonesome00 (Oct 29, 2014)

The gaskets were deteriorated when I pulled it apart. At the very least I need those and seals.


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## Lonesome00 (Oct 29, 2014)

In between all the other stuff I had going on today I got a few other things done. I got the air filter housing apart. The elements turned out well but the housing is still soaking. Underneath all that grease was a nice fuel tank. It also cleaned up quite well. No pin holes and not as much debris as I thought. Now I have to address the fasteners and get the sheet metal apart. I am not restoring it, but I do have some significant repairs to make.


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## Lonesome00 (Oct 30, 2014)

The sheet metal is worse off than I thought. I cannot afford to replace it so I have to work with what I have. Someone tried to weld the four pieces together. That piece of molten slop was not holing anything together and I cut through it pretty easily. The sad part is I may have to weld the together myself. The really funny thing is the body filler over some of the welds. Nothing hides awful welds like gobs of body filler over them. I did a lot of grinding, cutting, straightening. But I can only do so much. The sheet metal is shot.

I spent some time looking for a right side panel and even put the word out I am in need of one. But for now I would like to get the tractor back together. Being since there is no saving that panel I figured I would work with what I have and see how it turns out. I found the repair piece I am using in a parts truck I recently purchased. It was just lying on the floor board.  I cut it down and tacked into place. I will see what I can do about making it a bit nicer the next time I work on it.


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## T-N-T (Nov 2, 2014)

I have been waiting for this build thread.  Nice to see old stuff made usable again!

Nice work on the repair/patch.  Not a chance you would ever have such luck again with a piece like that just "laying" around.


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## Lonesome00 (Nov 2, 2014)

I was quite pleased with that find. I am looking foreword to hearing this old iron run again.


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## Lonesome00 (Nov 3, 2014)

Made some head way. I got the air cleaner back together and did some more metal work. I think I got it as done as I can get it. There is no way I can restore the sheet metal to anything close to what it was. I straightened it out the best I could and I will be getting it back together soon. As soon as the carb kit arrives I should have it running.


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## Lonesome00 (Nov 4, 2014)

New carb kit arrived. However, there are a couple of parts that do not look familiar.


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## The Longhunter (Nov 4, 2014)

If you rebuild a carb and don't have a couple of parts left over, you're not doing it right.


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## Lonesome00 (Nov 4, 2014)

I am pretty sure I got it together correctly.


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## rjcruiser (Nov 4, 2014)

The Longhunter said:


> If you rebuild a carb and don't have a couple of parts left over, you're not doing it right.



Ain't that the truth. Lol.


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## Lonesome00 (Nov 5, 2014)

Good thing I have a special drawer just for those left over parts.


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## T-N-T (Nov 5, 2014)

Lonesome00 said:


> Good thing I have a special drawer just for those left over parts.



You can try those parts the next time you build it...


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## Lonesome00 (Nov 5, 2014)

Found a leak in the radiator so I pulled and flushed it. It was nice to see green coolant coming out rather than just rusty water. I am going to attempt to repair it. If it does not work, I know where a good used one is.


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## Lonesome00 (Nov 13, 2014)

Cannot believe I spent so much time on this valve.  I went to a few stores to try and get a new one and met with failure. So I figure no problem, I will just fix it. I have a drawer full of nuts and other similar fasteners. I tried every one in an attempt to repair it. I figured I could braze it on or find some other way to make it work. I failed once again. I guess I will have to find one on line somewhere. So far all I have found is the complete bowl assembly.


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## Lonesome00 (Nov 13, 2014)

I meant a drawer full of wing nuts.


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## Lonesome00 (Nov 14, 2014)

Learned some stuff while at TSC today. I had no idea most of the parts I need or will need for this 2N are hanging on hooks and sitting on the shelves in stock at TSC.  New fuel bowl assemblies are $29.99 and they have all the individual parts for them. Well, with the exception of the valve I need. The other thing I learned is the fuel bowl on my Ford is actually for an Allis-Chalmers.  It does the job so I see no reason to change it.


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## T-N-T (Nov 15, 2014)

Lonesome00 said:


> Learned some stuff while at TSC today. I had no idea most of the parts I need or will need for this 2N are hanging on hooks and sitting on the shelves in stock at TSC.  New fuel bowl assemblies are $29.99 and they have all the individual parts for them. Well, with the exception of the valve I need. The other thing I learned is the fuel bowl on my Ford is actually for an Allis-Chalmers.  It does the job so I see no reason to change it.



Its fun when you have a wildly popular thing from a long time ago.  And they start to produce parts for them again.


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## Lonesome00 (Nov 16, 2014)

it does make it easier. But I ma not sure I trust some of the new parts.


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## Lonesome00 (Dec 14, 2014)

Man I have been busy as of late. And on top of it all I just inherited yet another tractor. But, I will get into that at another time. I have a little update on this 2N. I got the lower tank off so I can repair the leaks. Thanks to the new torch I picked up recently, I should have this knocked out. Well, when I have the time that is.


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## T-N-T (Dec 14, 2014)

Looks like fun.  er work.  er somethin.


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## Lonesome00 (Dec 15, 2014)

I am starting to lean towards a new rad.


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## Milkman (Dec 15, 2014)

I applaud you for investing the time and money in keeping the old iron alive. I have a 1955 Farmall that I bought to restore but doubt it will ever happen.

Is your goal to have a working tractor or a parade quality show tractor ??


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## Lonesome00 (Dec 15, 2014)

I am only repairing what I know is in need of it. I am doing nothing about the aesthetics because this will be a working tractor.


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## Milkman (Dec 15, 2014)

Lonesome00 said:


> I am starting to lean towards a new rad.



Are there even any radiator shops left nowadays ?  

 Used to be a shop in every town, but now radiators are like everything else, disposable plastic and aluminum.


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## Lonesome00 (Dec 15, 2014)

There are a few around.


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## sljones (Dec 19, 2014)

*Tractor Parts*

Just in case you haven't seen this website, www.yesterdaystractors.com   You can get most any part for tractors including sheet metal a lot of times at a very reasonable cost. Usually cheaper than at TSC after paying for shipping. Shipping cost is reasonable & my orders usually come within two days.


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## Lonesome00 (Dec 19, 2014)

Thanks man!


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## gcs (Dec 21, 2014)

sljones said:


> Just in case you haven't seen this website, www.yesterdaystractors.com   You can get most any part for tractors including sheet metal a lot of times at a very reasonable cost. Usually cheaper than at TSC after paying for shipping. Shipping cost is reasonable & my orders usually come within two days.



I bought a load of stuff from yesterday's tractor when I was restoring my ford 640. There s a place above Benton Tenn. called R&R tractor. It is a tractor junkyard, with acres of tractor parts. Here is their phone number if you need those hard to find parts (423) 442-5481


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## Lonesome00 (Dec 21, 2014)

thanks. I can go there when I go see my family Tennessee


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## The Longhunter (Dec 21, 2014)

If these guys in Hazelhurst don't have it, you probably don't need it.

Rebel Tractor Parts Inc
P.O. BOX 1480 Hazlehurst, GA 31539-1480
Phone	(912) 375-3451


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## Lonesome00 (Dec 22, 2014)

Thanks, buying local makes it easier.


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## Milkman (Dec 22, 2014)

There is a guy out of Athens along Hwy 106 that has lots of Ford tractor stuff. I mean lots.  

Billy Faulkner 706 548-2877


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## Lonesome00 (Dec 23, 2014)

I had no idea there was so much of this around in GA.


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## Lonesome00 (Jan 8, 2015)

Got to work on the 2N today.  I broke down and got a new radiator. I would have loved to have redone the old one and learned how in the process. But I need this tractor working now. 

Even though I am trying to get it running and working in a timely manner, I could not help adding something along the way. I had an electric fan sitting on the shelf that was almost a perfect fit for it. So, while I may upset some purists, I wanted to see how it would work out. 

Once all that was installed I cleaned and gapped the plugs and got the battery cables cleaned up and shortened. 

The battery charged up nice, but I am not able to get the engine to turn over. I will chase that down tomorrow.


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## Milkman (Jan 8, 2015)

Are you going to rig up a temperature sensor or run the fan all the time?


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## Lonesome00 (Jan 8, 2015)

It come on when the ignition is on.


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## Bilge Rat LT 20 (Jan 10, 2015)

There was an older man near Hazelhurst that specialized in the small Ford tractors.
Used to see him at auctions, Same place as Rebel.


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## Lonesome00 (Jan 10, 2015)

I have started to notice there are a lot of local resources for these old tractor.


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## Lonesome00 (Jan 25, 2015)

I was having some issues getting it to turn over. I tore the starter down just to find out it was fine. Looks like a battery issue.


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## Lonesome00 (Jan 25, 2015)

This is one reason I have not gotten much done. I am moving everything to the new shop. Now the old 2N is under cover.


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## Robert28 (Jan 27, 2015)

You're very lucky to have such good tires on that 2N and they don't looked cracked or dry rotted at all. I recently made a deal on a nice Ford 3600 that needed all new tires (tread was decent but they had to be original tires due to all the cracking and dry rotting). That's going to be a pretty big expense so I figured that into my offer and the guy understood I wasn't trying to lowball him and he accepted. I'm currently putting in a new steering column(the weak point of the old Ford's) and doing all new front bearings while I'm at it.


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## pstrahin (Jan 27, 2015)

That is good stuff.  2N's 8's and 9's are good old tractors.


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## Lonesome00 (Jan 27, 2015)

I do consider myself very lucky to have good tires on it. The are not weathered as much as you would think considering how long it sat before I got it.


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## Lonesome00 (Feb 22, 2015)

I have been mocking up the sheet metal and talking it apart to make adjustments. The new rad does not fit like it should and because there is so much original metal missing I have to get creative. But I think I am ready for final assembly. The problem is I think I lost some parts in the move to my new shop. I remember some spacers when I pulled the tank out. It does not look like it is sitting at the correct angle. Cane someone chime in on this? What does it look like I am missing?


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## Lonesome00 (Mar 3, 2015)

It looks like I found my starting problem.


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## Lonesome00 (Mar 6, 2015)

I got the body put back together last week. I had to weld it together because none of the places for fasteners were intact. Now it comes off in one piece. I made a battery hold down last night form pieces of scrap I found laying around. The battery is actually a high end $200 battery. But the parts store had to clearance it out and they practically gave it to me. Now I am going to address the fluids. I am sue they have been in there for over a decade. I have to find out what the correct fluids are first though.


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## rjcruiser (Mar 7, 2015)

The red flames add a nice touch


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## Lonesome00 (Mar 7, 2015)

Makes it faster.


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## Lonesome00 (Mar 9, 2015)

I was hoping to crank her up tonight. But the fuel bowl leaks profusely. So much for the rebuild, I will be buying a new one now. The housing is pitted too badly for the new gasket to seal. When I bought this tractor the intake tube was a universal radiator hose. Being since my 9N is shut down for a while I borrowed the intake tube from it. My choice of new rubber couplings made it very difficult to slide the ends together.


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## Lonesome00 (Mar 13, 2015)

Got a new fuel bowl from TSC and now not more fuel leaks.  At least from there. I still have one at the carb. I cannot get the fitting with the screen to tighten down enough. 
I wanted a battery disconnect so it would not drain when it sits for weeks without being used. I made a bracket from some pieces of scrap I found in a box and mounted it out of the way but easily accessible.
Now if I can only figure out what my starting issues are.


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## Milkman (Mar 13, 2015)

I use a boat type battery cable adapter on my tractor. I just take off one cable by removing a wing nut.


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## Lonesome00 (Mar 13, 2015)

I thought about that. I actually wanted a different type of switch all together. But that is the only one I could find at the local parts store. I thought I would have it running by now so I just settled for that one.


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## Killdee (Mar 16, 2015)

interesting thread, I have a 54Naa and they are good old tractors. If you lived near Calhoun I know a guy there who has restored dozens of n Ford tractors who could help you out. He has done this since the 60's. Last time I saw him he was building a Funk conversion flathead v8 8n.


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## Lonesome00 (Mar 18, 2015)

I love those flat head conversions. I briefly considered it. Right now I am trying to sort out my starting issue. I am also trying to locate a set of forts I can attach to the three point and a bush hog. I have work piling up for this tractor already.


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## Lonesome00 (Mar 21, 2015)

I could not accept my starter was bad. So I took it to the parts store today and put it on the machine. It spun fine and engaged like it should. I then went back to the shop and took everything apart. The engine spun over easy with a pry bar on the fly wheel. Everything else looked good so I put it all back together. I changed nothing yet it worked this time. The starter spun the engine over nice and strong. I am still scratching my head on that one.

Now the engine spins but I have no spark. I am assuming the points are corroded. Any input on that issue?


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## Lonesome00 (Mar 22, 2015)

I am getting power to the distributor. A test light confirmed that. I also found a lot of corrosion on the points. I did not have the gap specs with me so I have to look it up.


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## rjcruiser (Mar 22, 2015)

Dump the points if you can. Do they make a pertronix kit that will fit that distributor?


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## The Longhunter (Mar 22, 2015)

Lonesome00 said:


> I am getting power to the distributor. A test light confirmed that. I also found a lot of corrosion on the points. I did not have the gap specs with me so I have to look it up.



Use a matchbook cover.

I'd keep the points just to keep it authentic, and to give you something to mess with.

I'd replace the points and condenser from the get go.


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## au7126 (Mar 22, 2015)

Are you going with 12 volt system? New battery looks 12 v. If so what about charging system and will need resistor to ignition system.


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## Lonesome00 (Mar 22, 2015)

I would like to. But I am already over budget.


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## Lonesome00 (Mar 22, 2015)

Cleaned, gapped and still no spark.


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## Milkman (Mar 22, 2015)

Lonesome00 said:


> Cleaned, gapped and still no spark.



Possibly the coil


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## Lonesome00 (Mar 22, 2015)

That is what I am thinking now.


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## Lonesome00 (Mar 23, 2015)

Getting power to the coil and to the points. No spark to the plugs still. I could not hold the test light and hit the starter button at the same time. I was looking at the cap and rotor and they are worn pretty bad. But, I say again, they worked fine before. Not sure if the problem is between the points and the rotor or the rotor and cap.


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## Lonesome00 (Mar 29, 2015)

Being since I refuse to replace a part until I am certain it is bad; I went through the ignition parts again. This time, I got a very weak spark. So, it looks like all I needed this whole time was a tune up. I still do not understand how they worked fine before but not now. It is irrelevant though. I am going to order the parts and get this tractor put to work.


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## Scrapy (Mar 29, 2015)

You do take the distributor off when you adjust points etc. I hope.  I tried leaving it on one time and there is not enough room to "feel" right. You might also discover a lot of slop on the cam shaft in the distributor. 
The 12 volt regulator is cheap best I remember and I just mounted a junkyard 12 alternator. 6 volts just aint enough sometimes.

Also the gasket between the snap on coil and distributor has to be there. Otherwise the little spring thing on the bottom of the coil might mot match the distributor right.


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## Lonesome00 (Mar 29, 2015)

This one was converted to 12v before I got it. I have had the distributor off a few times trying to isolate the issue. I thought because it worked before it should now. But the condition of the cap and rotor is pretty bad.


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## Scrapy (Mar 29, 2015)

Lonesome00 said:


> This one was converted to 12v before I got it. I have had the distributor off a few times trying to isolate the issue. I thought because it worked before it should now. But the condition of the cap and rotor is pretty bad.


 Yes the gap between the cap and rotor can get too wide  with filing to clean. Best try new ones. As long as the plug wires are in the right order there is not much way for the timing to be off. I think its 1,4,2,3 if I remember right. Better not count on that though. In fact I think it says on the cap.


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## Lonesome00 (Mar 30, 2015)

There is a lot of wear from the rotor making contact.


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## Scrapy (Mar 31, 2015)

Lonesome00 said:


> There is a lot of wear from the rotor making contact.



Shouldn't have been contact. New caps look like half of the round contacts been ground off. If there was contact, wiggle the rotor shaft for play.


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## Lonesome00 (Mar 31, 2015)

I was thinking the same thing.


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## Lonesome00 (Apr 21, 2015)

I finally broke down and bought new parts. I got everything for a good tune up. But before I install them I am concerned about the grooves in the cap. I understand that could be from excessive wear in the distributor. But could it also be from the cap getting installed incorrectly? Is it possible for it to sit on the distributor crooked?


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## Lonesome00 (Apr 22, 2015)

Funny how throwing a bunch of parts at something fixes it. Well, sort of. I now have spark but the CensoredCensoredCensoredCensored thing still will not start. I think it is a carb issue. I took it apart twice and blew it out, but still nothing. I used the one from my 9N because it was working fine. The one I rebuilt needed adjusting so I figured swapping for nwo would at least get it going. I do not currently have access to my 9N, so I will have to figure out how to repair this one. Here we go again.

I am in disbelief over this. Never have I had a vehicle give me so much crap. This was suppose to be a simple project.


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## rjcruiser (Apr 22, 2015)

Lonesome00 said:


> Funny how throwing a bunch of parts at something fixes it. Well, sort of. I now have spark but the CensoredCensoredCensoredCensored thing still will not start. I think it is a carb issue. I took it apart twice and blew it out, but still nothing. I used the one from my 9N because it was working fine. The one I rebuilt needed adjusting so I figured swapping for nwo would at least get it going. I do not currently have access to my 9N, so I will have to figure out how to repair this one. Here we go again.
> 
> I am in disbelief over this. Never have I had a vehicle give me so much crap. This was suppose to be a simple project.



Will it go with some starter fluid in the cylinder and carb?


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## Lonesome00 (Apr 23, 2015)

Did not even try to start when I sprayed some in the carb.


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## OmenHonkey (Apr 23, 2015)

Verify that your distributor is in fact turning. Most older Distributor gears were made of brass designed to wipe off incase something seized up. It's rare but does happen. If that's ok then it sounds like a timing issue if it won't run on starting fluid.


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## Lonesome00 (Apr 23, 2015)

I was thinking that as well. I was looking for information on how to time this thing.


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## speedcop (Apr 26, 2015)

I used to heat my carbs with torch to clean out hidden hard build ups. I may have a couple of carbs left over in my shop from when I used to rebuild old fords. If I still have them, not sure how complete they may be I will be glad to donate them to your pain and suffering if you need


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## Lonesome00 (Apr 26, 2015)

I like that idea. I can see how heating them would get that last little bit out. Good idea.

it turns out, I do need another carb. The place for the large adjuster on the rear of the carb is stripped out and too worn away to rethread.


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## Scrapy (Apr 27, 2015)

OmenHonkey said:


> Verify that your distributor is in fact turning. Most older Distributor gears were made of brass designed to wipe off incase something seized up. It's rare but does happen. If that's ok then it sounds like a timing issue if it won't run on starting fluid.


I agree. The distributor cap should  have the appropriate number embossed beside each plug wire. The very back of the distributor shaft has a halfmoon so that it won't even bolt back on if not set right. There is not much adjustment to do fine tuning on the timing but that usually does not matter. Take out a plug and get #1 to top dead center and the rotor button should be point at #1 as printed on the cap. Of course the cap will be in your hand. You may have to remove the radiator to see it. If it is pointing at number three, go around again. Worst case you might have to take the flat head off so you can see the intake and exhaust valves cycling too to time it right.


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## speedcop (Apr 27, 2015)

Lonesome00 said:


> I like that idea. I can see how heating them would get that last little bit out. Good idea.
> 
> it turns out, I do need another carb. The place for the large adjuster on the rear of the carb is stripped out and too worn away to rethread.



I'll try to remember to look for those carbs tomorrow


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## Lonesome00 (Apr 28, 2015)

Thanks!


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## speedcop (Apr 29, 2015)

Lonesome00 said:


> Thanks!



sent you a pm


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## Lonesome00 (Apr 29, 2015)

Just got it.


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## speedcop (May 1, 2015)

your carbs are on the way UPS, will send you a tracking# today


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## Lonesome00 (May 1, 2015)

Thanks man!


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## speedcop (May 1, 2015)

hope they help you out, sent you a pm with track#


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## Lonesome00 (May 1, 2015)

I sure do appreciate. It is nice to know there are indeed good people still out there.


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