# Help getting rid of FLEAS



## Torre87 (May 23, 2012)

I have a three year old boxer I have had since 6weeks, we have NEVER had fleas but last December I was forced to move into a place that, well the be nice, isn't the best. for the last two to three months I have battled fleas in my dog and in my room. I have washed him in Dawn, wish rids him of fleas until he goes back outside, three brands of flea liquid one of which was Frontline Plus, and flea collars.  He still has them.

In my room I have used bug bombs, powders, sprays and vacuum once every two days and banned him from coming in my room and still cant knock them out. 

Please help me as I am going crazy. What can I do to get them off my dog, out of the house and maybe even out of the yard?


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## pstrahin (May 23, 2012)

Search for SarahFair.  She posted this question and got a lot of good advice.


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## pstrahin (May 23, 2012)

http://forum.gon.com/showthread.php?t=689963&highlight=sarahfair


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## Keebs (May 23, 2012)

yep, good stuff in that thread, but I swear by the once a month flea pill AND treating the yard & house, they're gonna be bad this year, I'm afraid!


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## Mommyzirra (May 23, 2012)

Comfortis is a once a month flea pill that has been very successful for people that are having problems with the topicals not working. But, treating the yard & your house is a good idea to work in conjuntion with the flea pill.  Also, make sure when you vacuum that you get under any furniture & throw away the bag & also wash any of the dog's bedding & yours, if he sleeps in the bed.


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## Torre87 (May 24, 2012)

Home Depot has the Bayer Complete Insect Killer grans for $12 for a 12lb bag. Is this stuff as good as I have read? Is it safe to use inside and on my dog? Does it kill fleas or just repel them?


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## pstrahin (May 24, 2012)

Mommyzirra said:


> Comfortis is a once a month flea pill that has been very successful for people that are having problems with the topicals not working. But, treating the yard & your house is a good idea to work in conjuntion with the flea pill.  Also, make sure when you vacuum that you get under any furniture & throw away the bag & also wash any of the dog's bedding & yours, if he sleeps in the bed.



But what if you have 8 acres to treat?  Where can you get the best deal on bulk products?


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## redman2006 (May 24, 2012)

You will not need to treat the full 8 acres if you use a good topical or oral and eliminate them from the house and immediate area.


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## pstrahin (May 24, 2012)

redman2006 said:


> You will not need to treat the full 8 acres if you use a good topical or oral and eliminate them from the house and immediate area.



How big of an area around the house do you think?


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## Big Mike (May 24, 2012)

When we had fleas inside we used 20 Mule Team Borax just like carpet freshener powder.  Sprinkle it on leave it overnight or a couple days then vacuum as usual. Doesn't hurt the animals but eats through fleas and eggs. Repeat a few times to be thorough.


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## redman2006 (May 24, 2012)

pstrahin said:


> How big of an area around the house do you think?



A 50 to 100 ft buffer is usually adequate.  Treat the areas he usually frequents if he has a latrine area or play area.


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## pstrahin (May 24, 2012)

redman2006 said:


> A 50 to 100 ft buffer is usually adequate.  Treat the areas he usually frequents if he has a latrine area or play area.



10-4, thanks.


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## ylhatch (Jun 1, 2012)

the best way to keep fleas out of your house is to leave dogs outside where they belong


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## waterdogs (Jun 1, 2012)

Use something that has IGR in it. larva from flea eggs can live up to 3 years before they hatch. you can kill the fleas but its hard to kill the eggs. There is something out there its called tri star or something like that that works it has IGR in it but its pricey


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## Butcherboy60 (Jun 2, 2012)

http://wolfcreekranch1.tripod.com/no_flea.html


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## waterdogs (Jun 2, 2012)

I used some today, but not food grade. Right now my dogs are not in the kennel and won't for another week. I bought it from tractor supply and now HD has it


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## donald-f (Jun 3, 2012)

For best results to keep fleas and ticks off of your dog is bath it well with flea soap and then apply Skin So Soft from avon. It needs to be rubbed in so it will get to skin, this is easy for a short haired dog like your boxer. I know it sounds stupid but give it a try and let me know the results. I promise you it works.


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## Redbow (Jun 3, 2012)

There is a product called Advantage, it also works. Or has for me for many years now, but it is quite expensive..


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## Torre87 (Jun 3, 2012)

Status Update: I got a 10lb bag of Bayer Complete Insect Killer Granules and, honestly, put it on my bedroom floor and in the part of yard where my dog stays. My roommate got some Diatomaceous Earth for the rest of the house. I bathe my dog very well and will apply the Soft so Soft tonight.


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## bunnyhunter (Jun 3, 2012)

Buy you some Ortho or Bayer Tree & Scrub from Home Depot. Couple cc's down the neck will do the trick. I have 7 rabbit dogs trust me it works!


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## Torre87 (Jun 7, 2012)

I just bought some Bayer Advanced Complete Insect Killer liquid, but it only has .72% imidacloprid so how much do I need to put on a 50lb dog? I assume two cc's since everyone says 1cc at 1.47% mine is about half as strong so you would need twice as much right?


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## Torre87 (Jun 9, 2012)

Ttt


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## sleeze (Jun 10, 2012)

Comfortis is the best thing hands down.


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## silverado31794 (Jun 23, 2012)

Go to a local Feed store and get you some Acephate 97UP and some Demon WP mix it up and spray the yard every 2 weeks to break the cycle.  It stinks bad but it works and also kills ants, spiders, roaches. As far as the dog use Lemon Scented detergent mixed with some lemon scented ammonia rinse and repeat. You will see the little buggers pop right off an die.


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## Henry555 (Jun 25, 2012)

silverado31794 said:


> Go to a local Feed store and get you some Acephate 97UP and some Demon WP mix it up and spray the yard every 2 weeks to break the cycle.  It stinks bad but it works and also kills ants, spiders, roaches. As far as the dog use Lemon Scented detergent mixed with some lemon scented ammonia rinse and repeat. You will see the little buggers pop right off an die.



How many 2 week cycles of Acephate and Demon did you go through before you had the situation under control?


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## Reel Big-uns (Jun 25, 2012)

ylhatch said:


> the best way to keep fleas out of your house is to leave dogs outside where they belong



That will do it and when you walk around in the yard, you will get them all over you and then, you can stay in the yard, also!!

The question is, How do you get rid of fleas outside as to keep them from getting in the house, not how to keep them alive in the yard.


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## waddler (Aug 4, 2012)

Well, after $500 spent on everything else to no avail, I got me some Ferti-lome Tree & Shrub Systemic Insect Drench.

It says the active ingredient is :

Imidacloprid, 1-{(6-Cnloro-3-pyridinyl) methyl} - N nitro-2-Imidazolidinimine.......1.47%

Other ingredients..................98.53%

Is this what some of you folks have been using instead of Advantage? I notice that Advantage II has Pyriproxyfen also, at .46%.


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## 12mcrebel (Aug 7, 2012)

go to your vet ask for your dog to recieve a capstar, and then start it on trifexis or comfortis.


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## BulldogsNBama (Aug 17, 2012)

I agree with Waterdogs.  If you want to get rid of your flea problem, you need something with an IGR (insect growth regulator).  The IGR is basically birth control for fleas and helps prevent the eggs/larvae from becoming adults.

You still will need some kind of adulticide/insecticide to kill the adults with.  We had a flea problem a few months ago for the first time in several years.  I kept buying and spraying liquid sevin dust and other insecticides.  It would knock them back, but 3-4 days later, the dogs would be covered and so were the kennel areas.

I went to our local farmer's co-op and found a product called Martin's Insect Growth Regulator.  Comes in a small 1 oz. bottle for $6.95 that says it treats up to 1200sq ft. or they had a larger bottle for around $16 that treats up to 6000sq ft.  The label says ok to mix in with other insecticides, so we started mixing it with the liquid sevin in our 1-2 gal. sprayer.  After the first spray, we noticed the population started dropping off, but because it was raining off/on, we had to be patient and wait to re-treat a few times.

Happy to report after multiple sprays, we are now flea free again, thank goodness!  This stuff is worth it's weight in gold in my opinion.  You can buy several brands or several varieties of this stuff.  The Martin's has Nylar in it, so it works well for both inside/outside use and has a longer residual effect because it doesn't break down as easily as Precor or Gentrol does.  Here's a few links to what I'm talking about... 

http://www.amazon.com/Control-Solut...37475&sr=8-7&keywords=insect+growth+regulator

http://www.amazon.com/Archer-Insect-Growth-Regulator-16/dp/B004H0I1HI/ref=pd_sbs_lg_7

http://store.doyourownpestcontrol.com/nyguard-igr-ny-guard


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## Torre87 (Aug 17, 2012)

I have solved my problem. I used Bayer Insect Killer to rid them from the house and yard. I scrubbed my dog thoroughly with Dawn dish soap then combed him with a flea comb. After he ate a full meal that night I gave him a Comfortis tablet and have not seen a flea since. I did all this about a month ago but did not want to post until I made sure I had gotten rid of them.


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## BulldogsNBama (Aug 17, 2012)

Good for you!!  Comfortis is good stuff.  It has an IGR in it.  You still might consider using an IGR on your premises though.  It will just help get rid of any dormant ones that might be lying in wait, to help ensure they don't come back.  Hopefully they won't, esp if you continue to give the Comfortis.  Fleas and ticks both have been so bad this year!  It was the first time we'd had a problem in several years.  The DE is good stuff to.  We spread it all around and dusted the dogs in it as well.


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## Torre87 (Aug 17, 2012)

Yea, Fleas have been HORRIBLE this year! I have not seen any ticks on my dog but continue to pull them off of me every time I get in the woods.


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## watermedic (Aug 22, 2012)

Bayer tree and shrub once a month.


I use 1 cc per 10 lbs on my beagles. Put it on their belly and rub it in good. No fleas!!! That works for me.


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## ga red devil (Aug 27, 2012)

best ive ive seen.

http://www.lowchensaustralia.com/health/diatearth.htm

DIATOMACEOUS EARTH-
(use "FOOD GRADE ONLY!)

Diatomaceous Earth is a non-toxic, safe substance made up from crushed fossils of freshwater organisms and marine life. Crushed to a fine powder and observed through a microscope, the particles resemble bits of broken glass. Deadly to any insect and completely harmless to animals, fish, fowl or food. Most insects have a waxy outer shell covering their bodies, INSECT STOP scratches through this shell causing the insect to dehydrate leading to eventual death. 

More and more people are putting diatomaceous earth in their animal feed. Ever wonder why? 
Diatomaceous Earth mode of action for insect and parasite control is strictly mechanical. The microscopically sharp edges contact the insect or parasite, and pierce their protective coating, so they soon dehydrate and die. The larvae is affected in the same way. This makes Diatomaceous Earth an excellent and totally natural control, with no indicating of mechanical or chemical damage to the animal tissue. It can be used as a dust for fleas, lice and other external pests by rubbing into the coat of the animal. 
Both internal and external parasite and insect pest control will result in improvement in health, appearance and behaviour, as well as assimilation of feed, which means improved weight gain and lowered feed cost. 

Another use is in animal production units for the control of external parasites and flies. This is achieved by dusting the animals and the litter or bedding area. It has also been included in the diet (two per cent in the grain ration) to control certain internal parasites, and this practice is said to result in lower fly populations in the resulting manure. 
Animal Use - Suggested Feeding and Application Rates:

Animal	Suggested Rate
Beef Cattle	1% of total weight of dry ration 5% in grain
Dairy Cattle	1% of total weight of dry ration
Calves	4 grams in morning milk per calf
Chickens	5% in feed, use at full strength in dusting boxes
Hogs	.2% of total feed ration, dust or spray on bedding and animals
Horses	5 ounces (1 cup) in daily feed ration
Sheep	1% in ground grains 1 part Diatomaceous Earth to 2 parts T-M salt
Goats	1% in grain, 5% per bushel of feed: up to 50% in T-M salt
Dogs	1 tablespoon per day in daily ration for dogs over 55 lbs. (24.9k), 1 teaspoon per day in ration for small dogs and puppies. Rub powder at full strength into the coat for fleas and sprinkle on bedding
Cats	1 teaspoon per daily ration. Rub at full strength into coat for fleas and sprinkle on bedding





Diatomaceous Earth can be used as a dust or spray for control of flies and other insects in buildings, on pastures, crops and trees.
Insect Control - Suggested Application Rates:
Dusting: For crops and pastures use 6 to 18 kgs (13.2lbs - 39.6lbs) per hectare (6 to 10 kgs. (13.2lbs - 22lbs) in calm air). Dust after rain, overhead irrigation, or after a heavy dew to increase sticking of the powder. Dust plant upward from the ground, covering all stems, top and underside of leaves. For enclosed area use ½ to ¾ pound per 1000 square feet. Hang dust bags in doorways of barns, milking parlours, etc. Sprinkle in areas where ants and roaches are present or areas in which they run, such as baseboards, under sinks, etc.
As a Spray: Mix two pounds per gallon of water with a wetting agent. Rates as low as ¼ pound per 5 gallons water with a wetting agent have been effective. Be sure to keep mixture agitated.
Trees: Sprinkle liberally on the ground and around tree trunks. Tree trunks can also be painted with a mixture of Diatomaceous Earth, water, flax soap or a wetting agent. This will inhibit migration of various fruit flies (maggot stage), worms and the Japanese Beetle (grub stage). When a spray is desired, refer to spray rates.

High Porosity: Up to eighty-five percent of the volume of Diatomaceous Earth is made up of tiny interconnected pores and volds. It is quite literally more air than diatom.
High Absorption: Diatomaceous Earth can generally absorb up to 1 times, its own weight in liquid and still exhibit the properties of dry powder.
Particle Structure/High Surface Area: Diatom particles are characterized by their very irregular shapes, generally spiny structures and pitted surface area. They average only 5 to 20 microns in diameter, yet have a surface area several times greater than any other mineral with the same particle size. Diatomaceous Earth increases bulk without adding very much weight. These features, it is believed, are what make it an ideal mineral for internal parasite control in animals: It is approved by the USDA up to 2% by weight of total ration for use as an inert carrier or anti-caking agent in animal feed. It is not necessary to use this percent of product on a continual basis. It may be varied to suit individual purposes.
Grain Storage: A rate of seven pounds per ton of grain in barley, buckwheat, corn, wheat, oats, rice, rye, sorghum and mixtures of these grains. It is most effective when grain is treated directly after harvest by coating the outside surface of the gain. This can be done by applying the powder at the elevator or auger when grain is being moved into storage.
When used at proper rates, Diatomaceous Earth has been effective against ants, aphids, bollworm, salt marsh caterpillar, cockroach, cornworm, earwig, house fly, fruit fly, lead perforator, leaf hopper, lygus bug, mite, pink boll weevil, red spider mite, slugs, snail, termites, Japanese beetle (grub stage) and many other insects.
Diatomaceous Earth is a natural grade diatomite. It requires no warning label on the bag or container. However, the continual breathing of any dust should he absolutely avoided.

CAUTIONS:
If you have asthma or some other lung ailment, either wear a mask or be very careful when using food grade diatomaceous earth.
Do NOT get diatomaceous earth in the eyes. DE is drying to the eyes, so do NOT put it out when you or your pets are down wind of it. DE is drying to your skin, hands, and feet, just as it can be to your pets.
Do NOT give to very small pregnant animals such as cats, guinea pigs, etc. and do NOT feed continually to babies or small animals such as cats, hamsters, etc. DE can be fed on a continuous basis to larger animals and livestock for continuous parasite control and mineralization.
Do NOT use heavily in carpet. Some advise too much DE causes vacuum problems.
NEVER use pool filter grade DE around animals. It can poison or kill them.
Some people experience a healing crisis (detox reaction) when beginning DE consumption. If this occurs, reduce the dose, till your body is cleansed, and then increase to the RDA.
Remember, DE will kill beneficial insects as well, so use accordingly.

Clinical Observations of Feeding Codex Food-grade Diatomaceous Earth to Dogs
O.C. Collins, DVM, Midland Animal Clinic and Hospital, Midland, Texas

In clinical observations on feeding dogs over 35 lbs. 1 tablespoon/day and under 35 lbs. 1 teaspoon/day of diatomaceous earth, within seven days all ova disappeared from stools. Diatomaceous Earth controlled Ascarids (Toxacara canis), Hookworms (Anclyostoma caninum), and Whipworms (Trichuris vulipis).


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