# Need your help! Boat trailer bearings. *Added some boat pictures



## longbowdave1 (Apr 12, 2018)

Once again, I need to tap the wealth of knowledge on this forum to help me out of a bind.  I'm rehabbing an older pontoon boat and trailer that my brother and I picked up. The boat and motor are just about done but, the bearings on the trailer got me perplexed.

 There are 13 inch, 5 lug wheels on the trailer, single axle, only one tire per axle. Instead of the traditional dust caps or bearing buddies, there looks to me to be threaded caps that may spin off to get at bearings.

I sprayed the edges down with penetrating oil, and let them sit for few days. I carefully tried turning them off by hitting some steel stock against the ridge, but no movement so, I stopped before wrecking them. Looked like no one had hit on them before, no signs of scarring from removal. The trailer may be as old as 1988, not sure. No I.D. on the trailer at all except the word "CANADA" stamped on it.

Has anyone  seen this type bearing "cover" before? I did a search on the inter web and came up blank. usually I can find at least a picture or something when hunting for information.

There are two opposing ridges in the cap, almost like a security screw. Like it was intended to be spun on but not off.

Thanks in advance for your help.


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## longbowdave1 (Apr 12, 2018)

It is a narrow scissor type pontoon trailer if the helps any???


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## WayneB (Apr 13, 2018)

post a photo with wheel off, can't tell enough from the photo you've posted.


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## WayneB (Apr 13, 2018)

I've seen that or similar, took a moment to sink in.
it looks like a press fit hub assembly that bolts to the axle.

Look for manufacturer info on trailer and search them. You may also me able to remove hub assembly and take to an old school parts place and find a match.


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## longbowdave1 (Apr 13, 2018)

Thanks for info Wayne. Got 3 days of heavy  rain, high winds, then turning to snow. Might be a while before I can pull wheel. No ID on trailer.  Are the pressed bearing seviceable?


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## longbowdave1 (Apr 13, 2018)

When I get back at it, I will jack up the trailer and give both wheels the spin test for noise and rock them Side to side to check for play in bearings. We have to trailer the toon to my brothers place about 200  miles. After that it will be 2  Mile trips to boat launch. Not far to go once we get it up there, just dont want wheel problems.


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## DAVE (Apr 13, 2018)

That looks like a normal dust cap to me. One that is pressed into the hub with out threads. I would spray good with pb blaster and put vice grips on cut out and try to work cap loose or take a flat bladed screw driver and insert between cap and hub and pry out. No way I would pull any trailer 200 miles without checking wheel bearings and spare tire.


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## WayneB (Apr 13, 2018)

if you can catch a photo from the underside out towards the back of the wheel, and we see mounting flange we have the answer.
If no flange, then it may be an odd dust cap.
Got me curious..


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## longbowdave1 (Apr 14, 2018)

DAVE said:


> That looks like a normal dust cap to me. One that is pressed into the hub with out threads. I would spray good with pb blaster and put vice grips on cut out and try to work cap loose or take a flat bladed screw driver and insert between cap and hub and pry out. No way I would pull any trailer 200 miles without checking wheel bearings and spare tire.



Dave, the picture may be hard to tell , but it's flush and nothing to grab on to with pliers or other tools . Agreed on checking things, that is my hold up right now.


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## longbowdave1 (Apr 14, 2018)

WayneB said:


> if you can catch a photo from the underside out towards the back of the wheel, and we see mounting flange we have the answer.
> If no flange, then it may be an odd dust cap.
> Got me curious..



Wayne, I'm going to fight the 35 degrees and 35 MPH winds to see If I can pull the wheel, get a better look at things, and take some pictures. As long as the rain holds off, that is. Got to love Spring in Wisconsin!

 Can definitely use your opinion on this one.


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## longbowdave1 (Apr 14, 2018)

*Good news, bad news....*

I braved the cold and did some research Wayne. Much of your guessing was correct sir. 

First off, I jacked up one side of the trailer, and tested bearings. That's the bad news. The wheel rumbles away when spun, like going down a  bumpy gravel road, and there is a lot of movement when I torqued the wheel side to side. The bearings are shot, assuming other side is in similar shape. Need to be changed for sure.

 Now for the good news. I guess focusing on the pontoon repairs, I didn't do my home work on the trailer before asking. Cold weather shut the project down for a while. It is a bolt-on flange mount hub bolted to a 6" wide piece of C-channel welded to the frame. No axle on the trailer at all. the dust cap is on the backside of the hub, not the side shown in the picture I posted originally. I have never seen this set up before, but then again, I never had a pontoon before either.

 I'm guessing these bearings were never greased or serviced from the condition of the bearings. If I remove dust, cap pull cotter pin, and remove "king nut", I should be able to pull the shaft out, and rebuild the hubs, Correct?

Here are a few pictures....


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## longbowdave1 (Apr 14, 2018)

Once I get the bearings replaced, I'd like to install bearing buddies in lieu of the dust caps, so I can add some grease to hubs in between inspections of the hubs.


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## WayneB (Apr 14, 2018)

I would snatch one off and take back to a warm shop, leaving the boat blocked up.
A teardown is in order, I've not seen a hub exactly like this appears, so I can't comment on if it will come apart opposite of a fixed spindle shaft, but it looks as if it will.
If you can measure the hole the dustcap projects through, you may be able to match up a replacement spindle.

Of course now would be an opportune time to install a drop torsion axle, especially if you are pulling it some distance.


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## WayneB (Apr 14, 2018)

interesting;
https://www.amazon.com/Tie-Down-Eng...qid=1523738681&sr=1-106&keywords=trailer+axle
another;
https://www.amazon.com/Round-Stock-...qid=1523738765&sr=1-160&keywords=trailer+axle

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013IYVJE...b53e-6ea0d6b27553&ie=UTF8&qid=1523738822&sr=2


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## longbowdave1 (Apr 14, 2018)

I will try and pull the hub when weather improves. Freezing rain mixed with snow, and gusts up to 40MPH right now.


I'll take some pictures as I go for future reference for the next guy who runs across a similar set up.

Thanks for the help and info Wayne!


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## NE GA Pappy (Apr 14, 2018)

that is a sealed unit and not made to be serviced.  It is made to be replaced when the bearing is worn


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## 7 point (Apr 15, 2018)

Looks like it don't have any suspension. If it was me I would remove the whole thing and install a traditional trailer axle less trouble in the future.


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## rayjay (Apr 15, 2018)

I bet that hub assy is off the rear of a front wheel drive car or mini van. Possibly the trailer is home made ??


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## longbowdave1 (Apr 15, 2018)

NE GA Pappy said:


> that is a sealed unit and not made to be serviced.  It is made to be replaced when the bearing is worn




May be , but I will try to pull it apart. Even if I have to take it to work and press the spindle out.


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## longbowdave1 (Apr 15, 2018)

7 point said:


> Looks like it don't have any suspension. If it was me I would remove the whole thing and install a traditional trailer axle less trouble in the future.




Trying to avoid that. Cost, and that fact that We won't be trailering the pontoon very far at all once it arrives at camp.


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## longbowdave1 (Apr 15, 2018)

rayjay said:


> I bet that hub assy is off the rear of a front wheel drive car or mini van. Possibly the trailer is home made ??




It is definitely not home made. Complicated scissors style trailer.


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## NE GA Pappy (Apr 15, 2018)

longbowdave1 said:


> May be , but I will try to pull it apart. Even if I have to take it to work and press the spindle out.



see post #16


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## longbowdave1 (Apr 15, 2018)

I have to give it a try Pappy, you can't break whats already broken, so no harm in trying.


 Just waiting out the snow storm blowing through. Hard to get to outside chores around here!


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## longbowdave1 (Apr 15, 2018)

I'm thinking about boating and fishing, not snow shoveling....


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## 7 point (Apr 15, 2018)

If you have to buy hubs and bearings a compleat axle at tractor suppley shouldn't much more


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## longbowdave1 (Apr 15, 2018)

Agreed. Once I get it apart, I'll see what I need and what the best way to go about fixing it.

I was looking at TSC website this morning, axles with hubs run 200-269$. Pontoon is heavy and wide. Got a TSC a few mile from the house and Northern Tool.

Not sure if the old hubs are bolted and welded, or just bolted.

I may crawl out in the snow yet today. I'm just as criuos to figure this all out.


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## longbowdave1 (Apr 15, 2018)

I guess a little snow and 30 degrees ain't going to kill me. As long as I'm getting the help I'd like to figure this mystery out.


 I sprayed some PB Blaster on the four bolts, and despite the cold and years of rust, they came of with a little effort, and a 9/16" socket. No welds to hold it in place, the hub assembly fell right off. No BFH needed, lol

 Looks like Pappy is the Winner! Appears to be pressed on spindle, bearings, and all. Junk!!!!

 I'll be shopping for new hubs like the ones Wayne found on the web. The only issue is that the old hub has a trapezoid shaped mounting plate, most I see are square. May need to drill some new mounting holes in "C-Channel".

Guess I'll fire up the Jeep and head to Tractor Supply in town, fun slippin' and slidin' in the snow.

Thanks for all the help and suggestions, I have asked questions on many sub-forums here for help with different projects, and the members always come through with advice and helpful answers.


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## WayneB (Apr 15, 2018)

The wheels almost look like Dodge caravan wheels. Roll one inside and look for a pentagram cartouche or other manufacturers' symbol.
May help narrow the search down.
If you decide to go with a conventional axle, know that welding will be required to mount it to the frame.


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## 7 point (Apr 15, 2018)

Let us know what you do and how it goes .


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## NE GA Pappy (Apr 15, 2018)

i'd carry that sucker to the local NAPA and get someone there to figure out which rear hub bearing it is and have them get me two of them.  Bolt them on and go down the road.  

Those things are made to run 100,000 miles or more on the rear of a car, and should outlive you on that trailer just moving it short distances like you are planning on doing.

I would bet you could get those bearing for less than $100 for the pair, and it will cost a lot more than that for an axle, not counting the labor to weld in mounts and such on a loaded trailer.  

I use to do a bit of welding, and laying under a trailer, in the snow and having the slag fall on you and get in your ears ain't on fun.


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## longbowdave1 (Apr 15, 2018)

Pappy are you saying they may have the entire hub assembly????  That would be great. I may look on line tonight.

I did go to TSC, found one in stock like Wayne found on Amazon. I bought it just to compare to the old on. The new one is much beefier and says its rated for 1750lbs. It also has 5 bolts on a standard 4.5 in bolt pattern. The old dog is an odd ball, 5 bolts on a 4 inch circle, and I'm guessing 1350 lb rating or less???? I would need to re-drill the two upper mounting holes in the C-channel, but that would not be a big deal.

I would have to buy 3 new rim/tire combos(two plus spare) if I upgrade to the new 1750lb  4.5 hubs,  that wouldn't be the worst, but more money. Old tires are 50 percent, maybe...  

I like the NAPA idea, got one right in town here, and pass a few on the way to work everyday.


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## longbowdave1 (Apr 15, 2018)

new hub


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## NE GA Pappy (Apr 15, 2018)

yep... you can buy that entire hub assembly and just bolt it in with the 4 bolts, bolt on your wheels and be off with the trailer.'

It will take a bit of work on the counterman's part to find the correct one, so find you a counterman that has some experience looking in the old paper catalogs instead of the whipper snapper punch the buttons on the computer kid.  They will have to have the # bolts and the bolt circle to start, and then match up the bolt pattern so you can bolt it back on.


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## longbowdave1 (Apr 15, 2018)

I will stop tomorrow,Thanks


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## WayneB (Apr 15, 2018)

just an FYI; the square flange is meant to mount a brake backing plate to, it *may* hold up the trailer, but the stub shaft is meant to be welded to a axle tube.

I thought I mentioned old school parts store.. must be early onset senility..


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## longbowdave1 (Apr 15, 2018)

I think you did mention it. Just got sidetracked.


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## longbowdave1 (Apr 15, 2018)

There's also a boat parts and trailer place i go to that has tons of old stock and loose parts, they may be another option.


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## WayneB (Apr 15, 2018)

Bingo!!

2000 Chevy cavalier rear hub assy

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...16/2000/chevrolet/cavalier?fitAttr_10039=Rear


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## WayneB (Apr 15, 2018)

5 lug @ 4 inch spacing.
Could look earlier to lose the ABS junk.

The trapezoidal section got me.. I knew I'd seen it somewhere.


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## WayneB (Apr 15, 2018)

hehe; gets more better.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...87/1985/chevrolet/cavalier?fitAttr_10039=Rear


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## WayneB (Apr 15, 2018)

I once had a 1992 Berretta bought new, drove home and cut apart to make a tube chassis pro mod car. I KNEW I'd seen that hub somewhere, that had to be it.

We drove the floorpan/chassis of that little thing as a hunting buggy during the off-season. Funniest looking thing you ever saw hustling through the woods.
I gotta go look for some pics of it..


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## NE GA Pappy (Apr 15, 2018)

Cavalier hubs were pretty commonly used on trailer and such because you could find them in junk yard cheap, and buy the entire rear axle.  Cut off the axle part and use the mounting pads to weld on the trailer.  That way you could use the tapped holes to mount it with, and didn't have to put a nut on the back side


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## longbowdave1 (Apr 15, 2018)

You guys are amazing! I was telling my brother that I have some guys working on the problem and I knew you would figure it out. How are you on winning lottery numbers?

A big thank you from me!


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## longbowdave1 (Apr 15, 2018)

They had a pair of them for $45 The big auction sight. They said they fit the 2005 Chevy Cavilier and the picture looked just like them.In the Fitment chart, they said they fit quite a few cars.... and a few pontoons. lol


 I wonder if they are Chevy Cavlier 13" rims on the pontoon too???


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## NE GA Pappy (Apr 15, 2018)

looked  back at post 11... yep, Cavalier wheels.  I still have a trailer I built back in 1980 with those hubs and wheels on it.


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## longbowdave1 (Apr 15, 2018)

NE GA Pappy said:


> looked  back at post 11... yep, Cavalier wheels.  I still have a trailer I built back in 1980 with those hubs and wheels on it.




Nice!


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## longbowdave1 (Apr 15, 2018)

Told my brother about your detective work, he says Thanks also!


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## WayneB (Apr 15, 2018)

love me a challenge.

what outboard is on that boat?


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## longbowdave1 (Apr 15, 2018)

Ya Done well one this challenge. It's a 1995 50hp Johnson with power trim. This rig Sat doormant in a pole barn for the last 6 years.  The motor had a loose clamp on gas line coming of fuel filter, but otherwise great. Runs good, pumps good water, and turns right over. Rest of boat needed a lot of tlc. Been working on it since last week in jan.


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## longbowdave1 (Apr 15, 2018)

Rewired trailer, painted motor,added stereo and fish locator, re plumbed live well, rebuilt table, stained wood trim., built spider rig for crappies, replaced gauges, added some switches, added battery box and new battery, redid canopy support straps, added more rod holders and rod rack, new straps for trailer, and other stuff. All in the cold....


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## WayneB (Apr 15, 2018)

nice! I have a 1994 Evinrude 50, just did refurb/rebuild. All new everything that could be replaced.

I saw the engine and used that as a date reference point for hubs.


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## longbowdave1 (Apr 15, 2018)

The boats a 1988, motor swapped sometime is 95, trailer unknown. The.motor runs well with muffs. Got to test it on the lake yet. Ice just went out on lake here, still waiting on Registration to return from DNR.


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## rospaw (Apr 15, 2018)

A pair of those hubs for 37.99 with free shipping. At that price i would buy one more, mount it to my spare and bolt it to my trailer.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pair-Front...ash=item48a1684acd:g:igUAAOSwQXZZ2zmo&vxp=mtr


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## longbowdave1 (Apr 16, 2018)

rospaw said:


> A pair of those hubs for 37.99 with free shipping. At that price i would buy one more, mount it to my spare and bolt it to my trailer.
> 
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pair-Front...ash=item48a1684acd:g:igUAAOSwQXZZ2zmo&vxp=mtr



I like the spare tire holder idea but they already have one on the trailer.


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## Big7 (Apr 16, 2018)

Go to:

www.tiedown.com

I managed that tool room for years. (until 2002)
They have EVERYTHING you need.

I have ZERO commercial interest there now.
Not making a cent on the plug. 

Just throwing that out there.


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## longbowdave1 (Apr 16, 2018)

While the new hubs are coming on a slow truck from California, I'll be out turkey hunting most of this week after tomorrow.

 I thought I'd share a few pictures of the Pontoon rehab.

 The motor was a little rough looking, so besides getting it running, I did some repainting.


My little dog photo bombed the cover picture. lol She does that kind of stuff.


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## longbowdave1 (Apr 16, 2018)

Put in a stereo and speakers, fish locator, and homeade PVC spider rig for crappies


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## longbowdave1 (Apr 16, 2018)

Can't fish all the time, so I welded up a bracket so we can fire up the grill and have a bite to eat.


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## longbowdave1 (Apr 16, 2018)

Here's  a picture of the layout of the boat, and the canopy opened up to get out of the sun. It's a 20 foot angler model. Live well under the bench seat.


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## longbowdave1 (Apr 16, 2018)

Of course every good boat has to have a name.lol


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## WayneB (Apr 16, 2018)

I have a magna grill I can clamp on the rail for mine, it comes in handy when you have to 'filet and release'. 
You premix or using the VRO?


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## tsharp (Apr 16, 2018)

Nice rig you have, catch some fish now!


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## longbowdave1 (Apr 17, 2018)

WayneB said:


> I have a magna grill I can clamp on the rail for mine, it comes in handy when you have to 'filet and release'.
> You premix or using the VRO?


   using the oil injection system.  Seems  to be working fine.


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## longbowdave1 (Apr 17, 2018)

tsharp said:


> Nice rig you have, catch some fish now!



Thanks. Just need to test drive the rig close to home, then head North. Lakes up there still under 24" of ice, and they got 24" of snow last weekend. Bad spring this year, we are in the  92 day of January.  Lol. Can't wait to fish out of it.


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## WayneB (Apr 17, 2018)

longbowdave1 said:


> using the oil injection system.  Seems  to be working fine.



advice: dump the VRO before you pull it North.

Oil side of mine died 5 miles from ramp, and idled it in, cost me a $1200 rebuild.
$75 in a new pump and mix your own will save you the headache. Trust me when I say it will break, and it will be at the least convenient time.

BTW I use evinrude XD 30 oil; the red stuff. I found a 6 gallon deal at https://domo-online.com/
Bought 6 gallons for what I paid for 3 gallons last year on amazon.


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## longbowdave1 (Apr 17, 2018)

I see a new VRO pump is VERY expensive, like $465 expensive.

http://www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_details.php?pnum=OMC5007421

 Did you remove the VRO pump, or leave it in place and just premix in your fuel tanks?


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## WayneB (Apr 18, 2018)

Universal 3 fitting pump for 50hp or larger, vacuum pulse line from pulse limiter (on block aft and below starter) to pulse side, fuel in and out. Cap off the old oil line at cowl and yank the tank and line for the oil tank. Premix 50:1.
need pump, 2-3 ft of fuel line and new clamps. 30 minutes to install. There's a few 'kits' for around $140 that have a bracket and lines/clamps. Hard to swallow knowing pump alone is around $60ish.
There's a 4 wire connector to the VRO pump, and a 2 wire to the oil tank, unplug em and move on.


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## longbowdave1 (Apr 18, 2018)

WayneB said:


> Universal 3 fitting pump for 50hp or larger, vacuum pulse line from pulse limiter (on block aft and below starter) to pulse side, fuel in and out. Cap off the old oil line at cowl and yank the tank and line for the oil tank. Premix 50:1.
> need pump, 2-3 ft of fuel line and new clamps. 30 minutes to install. There's a few 'kits' for around $140 that have a bracket and lines/clamps. Hard to swallow knowing pump alone is around $60ish.
> There's a 4 wire connector to the VRO pump, and a 2 wire to the oil tank, unplug em and move on.




Got it.

Good news the new hubs showed up at my doorstep today. You guys done good, they are an exact match! Thanks again for that.

I cleaned the oil and grease off the new hubs, and painted them up to match the trailer. I won't be able to install them till next week. Turkey hunting the next 4 days. By then, it should warm up and melt this darn snow.


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## WayneB (Apr 18, 2018)

dang holes and hub pattern and errythang lol
a week in those temps the paint 'may' be dry enough to handle. 
glad it worked out.


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## longbowdave1 (Apr 18, 2018)

They can hang til Monday, ought to be dry then. Hey, we have a big warm up coming the next 8 days!!!! 50's and 60's with the sun shinning! I'll believe it when I see it. Maybe Spring has finally arrived. Just got done shoveling another 3 inches of snow off the driveway.


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## longbowdave1 (Apr 22, 2018)

I installed the new hubs today and they fit perfectly, and the second set of bolts came off as easily as the first. When I pulled the second tire off(for the first time) I noticed writing on the hub with a yellow paint marker. Said,"1989 Skylark'. I guess if I would have pulled this tire off first, the mystery would have been solved sooner.

The first hub we were dealing with was in terrible shape and painted blue to match the trailer, I'm guessing original hub to the trailer. The second one I suspect is a junkyard part possibly. Not painted, and in a little better shape than the first, but still needed to be replaced.

The wheels are spinning free and true again. Now here is my question, Should I add bearing buddies to the hubs, or not worry about them???? I'm sure they will out last me with the short trips planned for the trailer.


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## WayneB (Apr 22, 2018)

I would consider a zerk fitting so you could grease, but I'm not certain it would help. Likely would blow the seal out and still leave moisture behind.


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## NE GA Pappy (Apr 22, 2018)

WayneB said:


> I would consider a zerk fitting so you could grease, but I'm not certain it would help. Likely would blow the seal out and still leave moisture behind.



these hubs are not made to be greased.  They are sealed for life.  They are designed to run over 100,000 miles on cars, and you should never wear them out on the trailer as long as you can keep water out of them. 

Don't install a grease fitting, bearing buddy or anything else. Just bolt them on and run them.


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## WayneB (Apr 22, 2018)

NE GA Pappy said:


> these hubs are not made to be greased.  They are sealed for life.  They are designed to run over 100,000 miles on cars, and you should never wear them out on the trailer as long as you can keep water out of them.
> 
> Don't install a grease fitting, bearing buddy or anything else. Just bolt them on and run them.



your most likely correct, what if anything would push out water? 1 psi of pressure in hub will prevent encroachment, but how to practically pressurize?

 I looked it up, 33 ft of water depth is 1 atmosphere or 14.7 psi. Boat trailers usually won't go deeper than 2 ft at axle hub, 1-2 psi should keep water out.


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## NE GA Pappy (Apr 22, 2018)

WayneB said:


> your most likely correct, what if anything would push out water? 1 psi of pressure in hub will prevent encroachment, but how to practically pressurize?
> 
> I looked it up, 33 ft of water depth is 1 atmosphere or 14.7 psi. Boat trailers usually won't go deeper than 2 ft at axle hub, 1-2 psi should keep water out.



standard oil seals are only rated at 2.5 to 3 psi. They are very easy to burst because of over greasing.   He will be much better off to leave them the way the factory made them, rather than try to guess how many strokes of a grease gun will exceed the seals ability to hold pressure.

Also, grease seals are not made to hold pressure like a fluid power seal.  As the axle rotates, the pressure will be released and he will be in the same shape as before he started, only he will have additional paths for water to get into the bearing.  

from my training in backflow prevention, IIRC, 1 psi is equal to 2.31 feet of water column.  So he will probably never even see 1 psi on the seal.  With that small amount of pressure, it would seem that the water being forced into the hub would be minimal.


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## WayneB (Apr 22, 2018)

somewhere around .4 psi per foot or so.
I can't actually recall ever having had water inside a hub under 'normal' use and maintenance. After a couple years sitting and being occasionally used the seals would let water in.


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## longbowdave1 (Apr 22, 2018)

Thanks again guys for the info. I'll just run them as is. Even if one were to fail, they are cheap, and easy to replace.


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## longbowdave1 (May 2, 2018)

Good news. The pontoon was hauled up to it's new Northwoods home last Friday, and no problems towing it. We did not get to test run it though, the lakes were still frozen, but almost ready to open up. Hopefully this weekend we can finally go for a cruise.It's been very warm up there all week.


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## WayneB (May 2, 2018)

that looks miserable.


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## longbowdave1 (May 2, 2018)

WayneB said:


> that looks miserable.



Will look much better this weekend, 75 degrees and sunny, hopefully, no ice???? My brother will be up there tomorrow night to give me an update.


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## WayneB (May 2, 2018)

we are expecting near 90 this week.
 May in GA. LOL

glad the trip was uneventful, hoping the weekend gets you motorboating.


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## longbowdave1 (May 8, 2018)

We were back in camp this weekend. Good news, the ice is out, and the pontoon went in, Twice! 

 The surface temp of the water was a chilly 45 degrees, still very cold for fishing, but a great day in the high 70's to test the pontoon. The motor started and ran perfectly, and pushed the pontoon really well! All the gadgets and systems I repaired, or installed, worked great. Even fired up the BBQ and grilled some sausages and some chicken. It's going to be fun summer on the pontoon. Wish I'd bought one sooner.

Next trip will be a serious day of fishing and we'll see if we can get some crappies and a few walleyes too.


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