# Loose screws on Buckmark Loctite or not?



## BuckMKII (Sep 17, 2010)

According to Browning they do not give out torque specs for the screws in the Buckmark. The screws I am refering to are the one that holds the barrel in place, the screw behind the rear sight that screws in the frame, and the screw in the rear sight base that screws in the barrel. These are the three screws that you have to remove to clean the pistol. Browning advises to "snug" the screws down. Well snug is not cutting it for me I guess. I took my Buckmark apart for cleaning last night and all three screws were only finger tight. I have shot approx 500 rounds over the past two weeks since I last cleaned it. I know I tightened all screws as tight as I dared in the aluminum frame. I guess I am going to have to use some blue loctite on the screws from now on. I do have an inch pound torque screw driver and a 1/4" drive ratchet that will go up to 65 in lbs. If anyone knows how tight the screws need to be in inch lbs I would appreciate the info. I think repeatable torque specs would give the best accuracy, at least it does for rifles. Also, are any of you using Loctite on the screws?


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## LEON MANLEY (Sep 17, 2010)

BuckMKII said:


> According to Browning they do not give out torque specs for the screws in the Buckmark. The screws I am refering to are the one that holds the barrel in place, the screw behind the rear sight that screws in the frame, and the screw in the rear sight base that screws in the barrel. These are the three screws that you have to remove to clean the pistol. Browning advises to "snug" the screws down. Well snug is not cutting it for me I guess. I took my Buckmark apart for cleaning last night and all three screws were only finger tight. I have shot approx 500 rounds over the past two weeks since I last cleaned it. I know I tightened all screws as tight as I dared in the aluminum frame. I guess I am going to have to use some blue loctite on the screws from now on. I do have an inch pound torque screw driver and a 1/4" drive ratchet that will go up to 65 in lbs. If anyone knows how tight the screws need to be in ft lbs I would appreciate the info. I think repeatable torque specs would give the best accuracy, at least it does for rifles. Also, are any of you using Loctite on the screws?



I use Loctite on all my scope rings, bases, and anything else that doesn't want to stay tight.


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## BuckMKII (Sep 17, 2010)

LEON MANLEY said:


> I use Loctite on all my scope rings, bases, and anything else that doesn't want to stay tight.



Thanks Leon. I do use loctite too but only on items that I want permanently mounted or installed. In this instance with the Buckmark these screws have to be removed everytime for proper cleaning. I know it will be a pain to remove loctited screws for cleaning. At the rate I am shooting this pistol, it will be taken apart 10 or so times a year.


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## KingTiger (Sep 17, 2010)

Why do you need to remove the barrel for cleaning? I replaced my factory barrel w/a TacSol & it's Locktited and heavily torqued in place. I also installed a Weigand rail, I use blue Locktite to keep those 2 screws in place and I don't even remove it every time for cleaning.


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## BuckMKII (Sep 17, 2010)

KingTiger said:


> Why do you need to remove the barrel for cleaning? I replaced my factory barrel w/a TacSol & it's Locktited and heavily torqued in place. I also installed a Weigand rail, I use blue Locktite to keep those 2 screws in place and I don't even remove it every time for cleaning.



I remove the barrel so that I can properly clean it with a rod and brush breech to muzzle. It can't be done any  other way unless the barrel is removed from the frame.


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## BuckMKII (Sep 17, 2010)

I guess I could keep the barrel on and use a boresnake.


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## KingTiger (Sep 17, 2010)

BuckMKII said:


> I guess I could keep the barrel on and use a boresnake.



That's what I do. The barrel doesn't get that dirty, a couple of wet/dry patches & then CLP and it's GTG.


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## killitgrillit (Sep 17, 2010)

BuckMKII
 If you haven't already go checkout www.rimfirecentral.com
There is a ton of info over there.
And the only think that goes thru my volquartsen barrels is a piece of heavy duty weedeater line split on one end to hold a patch.


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## BuckMKII (Sep 17, 2010)

killitgrillit said:


> BuckMKII
> If you haven't already go checkout www.rimfirecentral.com
> There is a ton of info over there.
> And the only think that goes thru my volquartsen barrels is a piece of heavy duty weedeater line split on one end to hold a patch.



Yep I posted there too. Thanks.


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## luv2drum (Oct 1, 2010)

BuckMKII said:


> I remove the barrel so that I can properly clean it with a rod and brush breech to muzzle. It can't be done any  other way unless the barrel is removed from the frame.



I had a gunsmith point out to me, that a cleaning rod can damage the area of the chamber where the bullet engages the lands, just as it can the crown of the muzzle.  He also pointed out that it is easier to recut the crown of a barrel than to rechamber a barrel.     I am definitely no expert, but that kinda makes sense.  But I prefer to use something like a boresnake or the weed eater line for regular cleaning.


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## killerv (Oct 1, 2010)

they actually make a guntite for guns, less headache than locktite when the time comes to remove screws.


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## jmoser (Oct 1, 2010)

Purple Loctite for the Buckmark rail - those tiny allen head screws may not hold the key for enough loosening torque with Blue without stripping.  On that size you are looking at 15 - 20 Inch lbs MAX [Not Ft-lbs !!.]  Nice and 'Finger snug' is about 17 in-lbs for most folks.

Some Buckmarks come with lock washers, some do not.  You can order them from Midawy - $2.50 ea.


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## jkoch (Oct 1, 2010)

LOCTITE has a formula 222 it is purple and perfect for holding "small" screws snug. About as get it gets for firearms.


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## BuckMKII (Oct 2, 2010)

Thanks guys. I will use the purple loctite instead of the blue.


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## dragonfly (Oct 7, 2010)

If you ever have trouble breaking loose a lock-tight screw, take a soldering iron or wood/leather engraving tool and heat the screw head.  It will come loose easily.  Do not use red lock-tight.  The purple is good.  If you don't have a soldering iron, an impact wrench like the Firestorm with the proper screw or hex sized driver will break them loose just like a lug nut on a wheel.  Just be careful in securing the weapon so you don't make an marks on it.  DF


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## jmoser (Oct 7, 2010)

dragonfly said:


> If you ever have trouble breaking loose a lock-tight screw, take a soldering iron or wood/leather engraving tool and heat the screw head.  It will come loose easily.  Do not use red lock-tight.  The purple is good.  If you don't have a soldering iron, an impact wrench like the Firestorm with the proper screw or hex sized driver will break them loose just like a lug nut on a wheel.  Just be careful in securing the weapon so you don't make an marks on it.  DF



Yeah - I just removed my Buckmark bbl and had to use a 300W Weller soldering gun for a few minute to heat it up enough; that is red Loctite or equivalent and they do mean Permanent!  Wish it was a Torx head!


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## CAL (Oct 7, 2010)

I use fingernail polish instead of Loctite on screws that get loose.It will make them stay and are easy to break loose. This works for me!


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