# New tree climbing system!



## Apex Predator

Warren Womack has been using the Woodpecker drill for climbing a great many years, and turned me on to this system.  Simmons no longer makes the Woodpecker, but E-Z Kut has started making them.  

All right folks, here is my first impression. I received my new E-Z Kut hand drill yesterday. This morning I took it out to the yard and played with it some.

Here is the drill with eight bolts, which is enough to get me over 15'.  I should mention that these are 6" grade 8 bolts.  Anything less can get you killed!


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## Apex Predator

It's got camo tape on the body. I expected the body to be a little heavier gauge aluminum, but this one is functional and didn't flex any. It comes with a lifetime warranty and is made in the USA! Price including shipping was $59.95.

It was a little tougher to start than I expected, but I was drilling a water oak, which is pretty tough stuff. I did all the work with one hand to simulate climbing. I installed three pretty quickly, climbing for the third hole. There were no directions with the drill, but some say to drill the hole at a slight downward angle. Good idea! The bolts fit a little loose in the holes. I measured both afterwards, and found the drill to be .390 and the bolts .370. With the downward angled holes I felt secure. The drilled hole is 2.5" deep, which only leaves 3.5" bolt to grab/stand on. It was enough though. I couldn't feel any flex in the bolt with my weight bouncing on it. I weigh 240#. It comes with a cloth case that the drill and my eight bolts fit into. You could probably fit 10 bolts. I think I'm gonna like it! It's definitely the lightest and most compact climbing system out there.

I have no affiliation with the maker of this drill.


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## BkBigkid

once you drill the holes and reach the 15'  Do you use a lock on or another type stand?


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## rapid fire

I got the very last woodpecker drill last year and like it ok.  It does tend to make me sweat, but for deep hunts, it is the way to go.  I carry a Lok-on-Limit and 8-10 bolts.  Get an extra bit to go with it b/c when the tip gets burred, it WILL NOT drill into the tree.


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## Apex Predator

Yep, lock on stand at the top.


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## dpoole

Those bolts sticking out the side of the tree alsways scared me!! I can juct see me slipping and falling and one of the ripping my innards out !!


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## Al33

I have the Woodpecker drill system also and have used it some and it does work very well, but I really don't need it anymore. I can see where if you are a hunter hunting really deep and hunting places where you shouldn't leave a stand for long it would be great. Mine sure does drill a hole fast and easily.


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## ChrisSpikes

Apex Predator said:


> I did all the work with one hand to simulate climbing.



Marty, get you a climbing belt and you'll be able to use both hands.  Whole heck of a lot easier.  You'll love using this system.  I've been using a Woodpecker since 1990 and would be lost without it.


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## dpoole

iS IT OK TO DRILL ALL THOSE HOLES IN THE TREES ON WMA PROPERTY?


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## robert carter

They grow up in one season. If you drilled some today you would have to redrill them in Sept.
 I don`t think they mess up a tree as bad as a climber. I would`nt use them in a pine.RC


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## rapid fire

Don't use them in soft wood.  As for using them on a WMA, most of them say no.  It would really depend on the area manager.  I use mine on WMA's, but it's not something you leave in the tree all season.  Great for deep walk-in hunts.


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## dm/wolfskin

Marty, I can drill 3 holes on the ground before starting my climb. I drill my holes to the left side of were I'm going to hang my stand. With the climbing belt on I use both hands. One to hold the bit were it won't wobble. It take a few times to get use to doing with ya left hand if you're right handed. I use 2 ropes. One for going up as a climbing rope belt and the other I hook to my harness above my head before climbing into my stand and then adjust to proper height and undo the climbing rope. I use 12 bolts. 10 to get me around 16 ft. up and the other 2 I use to hang my Alice pack and rattling antlers and bolt bag on.  I space my bolts about a knee apart or elbow to finger tip. Mike


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## Jake Allen

I like it. I was thinking of making one, but will most likely
buy one for that price. Looks like the perfect companion 
for a Guido's web sling.
Thanks for the info Marty.


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## RogerB

I know of NO public land (WMA's, Forest Service, Wildlife Refuges, etc) where drilling holes in trees is legal. Some officers may not write you, but most will. When I was an officer, all I needed to make a case was for them to be in your possession while on the area, I didn't have to actually catch you in the tree with them. 

Please don't misunderstand this post, I am not trying to start an arguement about if or how much they damage a tree, just make it very clear that they are NOT legal on public lands. I know lots of hunters use them (and other types of screw in steps), and if you chose to do so, that is your choice, and your risk.


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## Jake Allen

That is  very good information Roger, thank you.
Obviously, a voice from experience and may save me getting a ticket. 
The timber manager on my lease does not think highly of drilling trees either.
I am looking into a combination of lightweight climbing sticks, and a few strap on steps to use with a web sling.


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## Apex Predator

I just read through the new Ga regs and no where did it address screw in steps or drilling holes.  Maybe Roger can give us some written direction?


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## duckdawgdixie

wouldnt a climber be a lot easier and faster ? or even the screw in steps would be easier than drilling a hole and then tryin to thread a bolt into the tree


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## Apex Predator

This system is designed to be used with a light weight lock-on type stand that often weighs less than 10#.  The drill and bolts only weigh a couple of pounds.  It's beauty is in it's ease of packing long distances.  I don't hunt near roads.  The bolts slip into the holes and require no screwing or turning.  The drill works with much less effort than is required to screw in a step.


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## duckdawgdixie

Apex Predator said:


> This system is designed to be used with a light weight lock-on type stand that often weighs less than 10#.  The drill and bolts only weigh a couple of pounds.  It's beauty is in it's ease of packing long distances.  I don't hunt near roads.  The bolts slip into the holes and require no screwing or turning.  The drill works with much less effort than is required to screw in a step.



thats cool, but i think ill stick with my climber it prolly only weighs about 15 or 20 pounds


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## RogerB

On page 28 of the hunting regs, it reads "Tree Stands & other Hunting Structures: "Hunting Structure" means any portable tree stand, ground blind, stool, chair, bucket, waterfowl blind, or other similar device used for the purpose of hunting, Hunters may not construct or hunt from any tree stand that is not portable or natural."

While I am sure many would try to argue that systems that screw things into trees "are portable", many, if not most officers will not.

Many people think the reason for this regulation is the damage it does to the tree. While drilling holes in trees does provide a path for insects and rot to enter the heart of a tree (i.e. bypassing the trees natural defense system, it is not the primary reason for the regulation. The actual reason is to keep people from driving/screwing metal into the trees and possibably leaving it. If you had ever seen what happens when a saw at a sawmill hits a heavy spike that has grown over in a tree (I have), well, the least that happens is many thousands of dollars of damage to the mill and hours of down time. The worst is someone gets killed by flying saw teeth as they are sheared off by the metal. The saw doesn't even know when it hits a small nail, but something big enough that I would trust my life to it is a different matter. Almost all timber owners know if timber buyers know they allow spikes or screws to be put into trees, the value of their timber is severly hurt, if they can sell it at all. Watch what happens when trees are cut around old house places, peoples yards, or old fence rows; the loggers will cut off and discard about the first 8 feet of the tree (trying to get above where people may have driven something into the tree). Which usually equals at least half the value of the tree.

Marty, I admit the regs. are not very clear as they are written in the GA regs. They are much clearer on Forest Service, US Fish and Wildlife Service lands (where I used to primarily work). I also know that many timber companies write it into their leases, infact I know some that if the find you using anything that is driven or screwed into a tree, they will, on the spot cancel your lease, with no refunds and no other questions asked.

Once again I am not trying to start any arguments, my best advice, on WMAs or other private land someone may plan on hunting is to call and ask if your system is ok. Perhaps you will get an officer or landowner that once you explain your system and the fact you are not going to leave any of your steps, they may say ok. I hope so because it looks like a slick system.


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## Apex Predator

Thanks Roger.  I appreciate your insight and knowledge.  I mainly plan to use my mini lone wolf climbing sticks.  They are only 1.5# each.  I do have a nice Summit climber as well.  Actually, I have bunches of stands and systems!


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## T Harris

I feel that being able to use a lock on vs a climber is that a climber pretty much limits the type of tree you use.   Using steps allows any trees, crooked, larger than a climber can fit, etc.


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## WarrenWomack

In reference to the drill, the only climbing system that I've found, in my opinion, to be better suited for hanging a lock-on stand is tree spurs. I certainly realize that their use is not for everyone but for being portable and ease of climbing most any tree to hang a lock-on stand..... they can't be beat.

With that said... If I know for certain that there is a chance that I'll make a repeat hunt on a tree, I'll drill it. Once again, in my opinion, climbing a tree that's drilled is the safest way to hang a stand, not to mention the most compact and lightest method. 

And... I'm a firm believer in hunting as light as possible because no matter if it's a close hunt or a long distance hunt. Every ounce counts on pack out, especially, when you add the weight of a deer to your equipment.


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## duckdawgdixie

Apex Predator said:


> The bolts slip into the holes and require no screwing or turning.



what keeps the bolts from sliding out of the tree?


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## Apex Predator

You drill the hole at a slightly downward ange.  The threads on the bolts grip the inside of the hole.  Mr. Womack has been using this system for decades, and has never had one come out.


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## robert carter

I your in a lease or maybe hunt the same places over and over you will not understand the reason for Marty`s system . BUT if you hunt like he does as well as a few others you will know the reason for being lite weight and mobile. A mile from the truck is probably average for me.RC


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## duckdawgdixie

Apex Predator said:


> You drill the hole at a slightly downward ange.  The threads on the bolts grip the inside of the hole.  Mr. Womack has been using this system for decades, and has never had one come out.



hm sounds cool if i ever change to a lock on ill give em a try


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## dm/wolfskin

Well it's not like you're leaving your bolts in the tree. You take them out as you climb down after a hunt. I 've seen climbing stands do more damage going up and down a tree than the bolt system. You can really cut the bark off using blades chains or what ever for climber type stands. I do have buck steps for places that don't allow drilling. Mike


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