# Revolver barrel replacement...



## jstar08 (Jun 12, 2008)

I was just curious as to what goes into barrel replacement on a revolver pistol. The gun is a Ruger Super Redhawk. The barrel seems to have been shot alot and I wanted to replace it. A friend of mine ordered me a Factory Ruger Replacement for dirt-cheap (FFL Dealer). I am not going to attempt it myself but didn't know if this was a common thing to do-replacing barrels on revolvers, thanks for any comments....


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## HandgunHTR (Jun 13, 2008)

I highly doubt that the barrel on your Blackhawk _needs_ to be replaced.  It takes quite a bit to wear a revolver barrel out.  You will usually see wear on the top strap from gas erosion before the barrel is shot out.  If it is not shooting well then I would suspect a fouling issue before I would pin it on the barrel being worn out.

Now that doesn't mean that you can't replace the barrel.  Especially if you want a different length.  It isn't that dissimilar to replacing a rifle barrel.  The key is to get the gap between the cylinder and the barrel set right.  Any good gunsmith can do it, but I would look for one that specializes in revolvers.


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## jstar08 (Jun 13, 2008)

I have a couple of semi auto's and it seems like the rifling is "deeper" on those barrels and I know exactly how many rounds have been threw them. The Redhawk is an older model and I got it used, great gun. There is some fowling about a 1/4 inch from the cyclinder in the barrel that I am have problems getting out. The caliber is 44 mag if that is a common thing with that round.


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## HandgunHTR (Jun 13, 2008)

It sound like you have a leading problem.  That will happen when people load lead bullets to jacketed bullets velocities, which is especially common with .44 Mag.  There are a couple of ways to get it out easily.  The first way is to find someone with an Outers Foul-Out System. (http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=243419)
It will take it out overnight.  
The second way is much cheaper, but takes a little more work.  Get some JB Bore Paste.  Get a worn .44 caliber bore brush or a new .41 caliber bore brush.  Put a thin layer of paste on a patch and then wrap the patch around the brush.  Insert into the barrel and then slowly work it up and down the barrel, paying particular attention to the throat area (the area right in front of the cylinder).  Run a couple of clean patches down the barrel to remove the residual paste and then do it again.  Once the fouling is removed, clean as normal.  Make sure that you use a muzzle protecting rod guide while cleaning.

As for the "shallow" rifling, it sounds normal to me.  Of course I would need to know what autos you are comparing it to.


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## tracker (Jun 13, 2008)

That is where the barrel threads screw into the frame. I have read that Ruger made the frame threads and the barrel threads a "Crush Fit" and there is actually a slight constriction of the bore in that area. I had a Redhawk that you could feel the tightness in the bore with a tight cleaning patch. I had better luck with cast bullets shooting accurately in that gun because from what I read the bullets would constrict going through the tight section, and cast was better at slugging up to the bore diameter afterwards. Do a search for bore lapping Ruger barrels and you might find some more info.

Danny


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## jstar08 (Jun 13, 2008)

handgunHTR: two of my handguns that the rifling seems deeper on is my Ruger P95 9mm and S&W 4006 .40. On the Redhawk, it just doesn't look as deep, could be my eyes though. I will try the suggestions though. Thanks fellahs


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## tracker (Jun 13, 2008)

*Bore*

This is what I referred to: 

http://www.castbullet.com/misc/accrsa.htm

Also, IIRC the rifling on autos may be made deeper than on revolvers, but that may have been an individual brand thing.

Danny


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