# ***lighted nock directions...***



## kcausey

Gonna explain this the best i can....ok...
buy one of these, or a hand full, make sure they snap in and out....no twisting kind will work....i buy mine at BPS and Academy, usually $2.99/each...









Once you have this in hand....take your iridescent (see through) nocks out....with the light ON...stick the lighted end of the light into the canal of the nock. Now you have the "depth" set.

Ok, you have your 1/4" dowel....take some sort of fine blade, i use a hack saw blade without the saw.....saw off a piece of the dowel 1/8" to 1/4" long....slide this piece into the arrow shaft....(you may have to sand it accordingly, or fold the rough edges into the shaft to make it tighter.....you'll need a good bit of friction between the dowel and the inside of the shaft.) Now you have the dowel inside the shaft, flush with the end of the arrow. Take your LIGHTED nock...(nock and light)...and push the dowel piece down into the shaft until your nock is 1/16" from being flushed up tight to the shaft as normal. Once you push far enough, leaving that 1/16"!!!!.....pull the nock and light back out. Take your fast drying super glue, and carefully drop 1 or 2 drops straight down inside the shaft, onto the dowel....try you best to not let it get on the inner shaft.....let it dry for however long your glue will take to be completely dry!
after drying...
Take the light out of the nock, pull it out to turn it off.....put everything back in place with the light off!....you now have roughly a 1/8" gap between the nock seat and shaft.....nock the arrow and shoot......the string pressure snaps everything together....boom, lighted nock that will not go off.
These lights come in green, yellow, and red....red is brightest, then yellow, green......btw...don't get ahead of me and go trying to glue the light into the nock.....it will work about 5% of the time....those plastics are too sensitive. The only downside is after a shot you'll have to take the nock out to reset.

the dowel is like a buck 50 at walmart. it gets addicting. just remember when you nock the arrow you'll probably have to hold the sides of the nock to push it on the string...otherwise it may trigger...lemme know if u have any questions....
KIP


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## satchmo

Thanks Kausey, I was going to pm you for the plans on these home brew lighted nocks. I am on the project.


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## deerassassin22

About how much weight does that add to your arrow?


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## kcausey

deerassassin22 said:


> About how much weight does that add to your arrow?



Not enough to tella difference at 50 yards...
it might take away a couple fps, but who cares.  5 fps ain't gonna help kill that deer


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## DUCKAHOLIC86

if you go to you tube and look up home made lighted nocks there is a step by step video


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## kcausey

DUCKAHOLIC86 said:


> if you go to you tube and look up home made lighted nocks there is a step by step video



Is it the same way.....because i know there's another way, where you use a piece of the nock shaft, glue it to the light, similar to how the CX nocks work......they turn out terrible, not neary as dependable as the way i described.


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## Doveman

I looked at many different retailer web sites and it looks like the lights are around $4 and above.  Have you bought some lately at $2.99?  Still cheaper to make and I'm planning to try it.  Thanks for the details on making them.


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## kcausey

Doveman said:


> I looked at many different retailer web sites and it looks like the lights are around $4 and above.  Have you bought some lately at $2.99?  Still cheaper to make and I'm planning to try it.  Thanks for the details on making them.



I wanna say they are 2.99 at academy and 3.59 at bps


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## Captain Backstrap

great idea


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## frankwright

I have made them both ways and the dowel rod is so much easier. I have always "tried" to glue the light in the nock and about 50% of the time it ruins them. I won't glue them if I make any more.

I do drill a small hole through the nock length wise as it seems to make it brighter.

Thanks for the tips.


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## kcausey

frankwright said:


> I have made them both ways and the dowel rod is so much easier. I have always "tried" to glue the light in the nock and about 50% of the time it ruins them. I won't glue them if I make any more.
> 
> I do drill a small hole through the nock length wise as it seems to make it brighter.
> 
> Thanks for the tips.



I tried the hole drilling deal....it didn't make a big difference.....also most of my nocks broke afterwards.


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## riskyb

about how many uses can you get out of these, are you able to turn them on and off like the store bought ones?


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## kcausey

riskyb said:


> about how many uses can you get out of these, are you able to turn them on and off like the store bought ones?



I guess until you run the battery down....several days worth of light?  never used one up....very easy to turn off and on.


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## DEERFU

Cool idea. Picked up the lights at Sports Authority, I guess the dowels can be found in the craft section at Walmart?


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## tsknmcn

DEERFU39 said:


> Cool idea. Picked up the lights at Sports Authority, I guess the dowels can be found in the craft section at Walmart?



Yes, they are in the crafts section(usually where my wife goes when I'm headed to sporting goods).  Lowe's and Home Depot would have them as well.  Probably cheaper at WM though.

Nice "how to".  Thanks.


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## DEERFU

Just finished 3 for under 11 bucks! Went with the green because they are cheaper. Can't wait to try them out tomorrow.


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## DEERFU

Worked great! Thanks for the info Mr. Causey


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## kcausey

DEERFU39 said:


> Worked great! Thanks for the info Mr. Causey



Good deal man....that other way isn't very good at all...i tried the ones using the nock shaft...about 1 out of 4 worked right.


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## Doveman

I measured the weight on an analytical scale at work.  The light itself is 11.7 grains, 1/4" of dowel is 2.2 grains, and a very small drop of glue is 0.3 grains for a total of 14.2 grains.  The total depends on the amount of glue and density of the wooden dowel but 14 to 15 grains would be a very good estimate.


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## blong

I just made 1 and it works about 80% of the time. 
I bought 2 refill lights at academy and only 1 works.


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## kcausey

Not sure what the problem is....try to use liquid glue...that will help if depth is an issue.   Otherwise i'd blame operator error....every one i have made works fine.


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## blong

It is a problem with the light. sometimes when pushed down to activate, it does not come on like it is not getting contact. I can wiggle it and it comes on. The other light just never worked right. It had a dim light from the time I took it out of the pack. Mine are Beacons and my buddy bought some Thills which seem to be brighter and more dependable.


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## kcausey

blong said:


> It is a problem with the light. sometimes when pushed down to activate, it does not come on like it is not getting contact. I can wiggle it and it comes on. The other light just never worked right. It had a dim light from the time I took it out of the pack. Mine are Beacons and my buddy bought some Thills which seem to be brighter and more dependable.




Oh ok...maybe you got a bad batch or something....i always get the rod & bob's....they work fine.


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## blong

Just got three more from Gander Mtn and they work fine. I think it was a bad batch. Thanks for the direction, it never gets old watching a glowing arrow fly to the target.


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## ed742

Will this work on small diameter arrows like Easton FMJs?


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## kcausey

ed742 said:


> Will this work on small diameter arrows like Easton FMJs?



should work fine as long as the light fits inside your nocks....you'll likely have to sand the dowel down.


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## randy966

kcausey said:


> should work fine as long as the light fits inside your nocks....you'll likely have to sand the dowel down.



The light will not fit up in the nock of the smaller diameter Easton arrows, just tried it


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## gpigate

so you are not gluing the light or the nock to anything, the only reason you are using the glue is to hold the dowel in place in the shaft?

i have always glued with yellow CA (hobby glue) and have gotten better results than you guys are talking about. then again I probably spent 20 bucks perfecting it.   also if you glue the light to the nock and turn it in any way, its gone


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## kcausey

gpigate said:


> so you are not gluing the light or the nock to anything, the only reason you are using the glue is to hold the dowel in place in the shaft?
> 
> i have always glued with yellow CA (hobby glue) and have gotten better results than you guys are talking about. then again I probably spent 20 bucks perfecting it.   also if you glue the light to the nock and turn it in any way, its gone



i pretty much get 100% succes out of mine....only glue involved is on the dowel.  I tried several times gluing the light to the nock...about 2 out of 5 worked out ok.


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## FishinMech

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hMqLT-4ezzk
I think this will help some ppl


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## FishinMech

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3MgZ1TuQy7A&feature=related

And this one will help with the people that use the fobs....


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## gpigate

makes sense causey, will try your method.

"with the light ON...stick the lighted end of the light into the canal of the nock. Now you have the "depth" set."

what do you mean by this, what good does sticking the light in the nock do?  what depth does that give you?  do you mark something and this helps with how deep to set the dowel?


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## kcausey

gpigate said:


> makes sense causey, will try your method.
> 
> "with the light ON...stick the lighted end of the light into the canal of the nock. Now you have the "depth" set."
> 
> what do you mean by this, what good does sticking the light in the nock do?  what depth does that give you?  do you mark something and this helps with how deep to set the dowel?



put the dowel in the shaft, push it down into the shaft with the light and nock together, light needs to be on....stop the nock short of seating tight into the shaft....then pull the nock and light out....the dowel is inside the shaft as deep as the light and nock pushed it....then put a drop or two of glue inside the shaft on top of the dowel.  The light being on gives you an extra 1/16" or so....light is snapped in when on, out when off...it's about 1/16".


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## gpigate

ok, that all makes sense, will give it a try


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## Just 1 More

EVERYONE DOES KNOW THAT LIGHTED KNOCKS WILL DISSQUALIFY YOU FOR P&Y .. right????


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## gpigate

not if you take it out and put in normal nock before they get there


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## Just 1 More

gpigate said:


> not if you take it out and put in normal nock before they get there


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## gpigate

Just 1 More said:


>




  i thought everyone carried extra nocks in their packs


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## Fire Dawg 20

gpigate said:


> not if you take it out and put in normal nock before they get there



LOL.....I agree!!


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## kcausey

Just 1 More said:


> EVERYONE DOES KNOW THAT LIGHTED KNOCKS WILL DISSQUALIFY YOU FOR P&Y .. right????



who cares?
I could care less about the P & Y book.


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## hvickers2

Fyi I found some thills at dicks next to the bobbers they didn't have the beacons but the did have fox brand for 499 dollar more than thills check em before you leave the parkin lot 2 of 6 worked out of the box


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## BIGSteve

The record books are for people who need to say"look at me,I'm so GREAT"!The deer grew the rack,and made 1 mistake in his life!


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## BIGSteve

Causey,I'm going today and get some of those lights.I've been using Luminock for a while and LOVE to see them pass through an animal...looks like a lazer!Bad thing is,they cost so dang much to set up a dozen arrows.I will take your word on this...it sounds GREAT and more cost effective.Thanks for the advise.If it works like you said it does,you will have taught an old dog a new trick!


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## dukedog1

anyone found a site to buy these lights in bulk? Cheapest I've found is $4 at cabelas


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## ClydeWigg3

Just 1 More said:


> EVERYONE DOES KNOW THAT LIGHTED KNOCKS WILL DISSQUALIFY YOU FOR P&Y .. right????



I predict this rule will be changed in the future.  A lighted nock is no help in shooting the deer.  The nock only makes it easier to follow the arrow's path after you shoot.  While I understand a rule is a rule, this one is a silly rule.  Pope and Young should smile on lighted nocks, because it could increase the recovery rate of lost game by the hutner knowing how long to wait before tracking.  A found deer is better and more responsible than a lost deer anyday.


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## mallardk

*tried*

Ok , i got my depth set, but when i go to put the knock back in with the light off, i can t push it down very far with out turning the light on, i tried to push down all the way and then just edge it back out to turn light off but i  end up pulling the whole thing out. any suggestions.


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## BIGSteve

mallardk,I have set up a dozen arrows with causeys' instructions and they work perfectly.To turn these type set ups off,you have got to pull the knock out and manually turn off the light!These are not like Luminok that has two contact points that touch and complete a mini curcuit.If you have any more questions you can PM me,but this should be all you need!


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## Full Pull

Got some new arrrows last night and picked up 6 lights from the fishing area gonna try to my hand at this today.I will try to post up picts.


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## mallardk

*Got it work,*

Got it to worked  and it worked every time,  kids thought it was "Sick"  which I am learning is a good thing. Only problem now is I bought 1/2 dozen Easton Axis which is the "x" nock and light doesn't fit in those unless someone knows of a fix, but you can see the difference in penetration on the axis vs the ICS Hunter (lighted One)
PS,  i used the knock that i pulled out and sawed off part that fit downs the shaft, instead of using dowel,  one end was open but other end had only a small hole and was closed enough I knew with the glue that the light would make contact and not go inside.


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## Full Pull

Here are mine I did 6 of my Aramid's
They fly great.
Thanks for all the info.


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## southGAlefty

Good stuff, I'm making up a couple. Had to order my lights from Cabelas because nowhere around me has them. We'll see how it turns out!


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## BowtechRedneck

Heres the video
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## BowtechRedneck

Just 1 More said:


> EVERYONE DOES KNOW THAT LIGHTED KNOCKS WILL DISQUALIFY YOU FOR P&Y .. right????


That sounds ridiculous we owe it to the deer there such a fair game to hunt and during low light conditions before the end of shooting light ends its difficult to see we owe it to the deer and ourself to make sure an injured deer doesn't run off and die.Wounder how many times before lighted arrow nocks where invented that i shot at low light conditions got down couldnt find my arrow and just gave in convincing myself i missed only to find a dead smelling carcass a few days or weeks later eaten by coyotes


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## hansonw

Just 1 More said:


> EVERYONE DOES KNOW THAT LIGHTED KNOCKS WILL DISSQUALIFY YOU FOR P&Y .. right????



y??????????


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## respro

*Easton Axis Full metal jacket 340 camo?*

Anyone here know if I can make my own lighted knocks for my arrows. Easton Axis Full metal jacket 340 camo. Web site says they are very small in diameter. I don't want to buy the lights and find that they won't work on my arrows.
Thanks Guys.


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## chenryiv

I made a couple using GT Hunter XT on Wednesday night.  Hunted with them Friday evening.  Took a nice doe at 30 yds.. It worked like a charm.  Thanks for the directions, heck of a lot cheaper than the others and worked just as well.  I found the Thrill Nite Bright at www.fishermanswarehouse.com for $2.99


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## Full Pull

Don't know about p&y, But I know chop and yummm.


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## Full Pull

Here is a link where to get some lites.
http://www.rod-n-bobbs.com/index.php?page=prodView&pid=109


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## JABO1730

Did anyone get this to work on the easton axis arrows x nock?


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## Vance Henry

Two things:  One, the Pope and Young record book is a way of honoring the animal.  The history of Pope and Young Club is a fascinating story and should be read by all bowhunters.  Secondly, the P&Y rule on the lighted nocks is not aimed at the nocks directly, but at all electronics as bow add-ons.  Their stance is simple, if lighted nocks were allowed as an accepted electronic device, then the flood gates would open on other electronic devices.  As a result, they allow no electronics of any kind.


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## fatbeeman

*nocks*

well after buying 10 of those things and wasted most I just bought store bought ones for my cross bow.
Don


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## Ohio Bob

fatbeeman said:


> well after buying 10 of those things and wasted most I just bought store bought ones for my cross bow.
> Don



I made my share..more a hobby than a money saver!
You'll find that they don't save you much after you screw a couple up. For 9$ you can buy one that works!  Tracer Nocks for me.


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## Kris87

i made some nocks last night, but i had a hard time getting the dowel glued in properly.  i got more on the shaft than i intended too.  whats a good way to get the glue down in there so far without hitting anything?

i did make a couple using the old cut off the bottom part of the nock, and glue the head up in the nock.  they worked perfectly, but i do want to be able to spin them if needed, and obviously you cant with this method.


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## APPierce0628

Kind of a late reply, first in a long time. Anyone who wants to do this even cheaper, on lancaster, the hawglite po' nocks replacement batteries are the same as the thills and they are $5 for 6.


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## BRANCHWYNN

http://youtu.be/6TyGGEVIDYw

24.99 a 3 pack. string activated and cut it off and on with a pocket knife.


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## KILL EM ALL

There is a guy on AT that sells them for 1$ if you buy 12 or more.


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## APPierce0628

For all if my fellow axis/fmj users out there, read post 7 on this link. I added this page to my favorites almost a year ago and forgot why. Now I know.
http://discussions.texasbowhunter.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1062


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