# HELP!! Problems with 84 ford ranger



## SC Hunter (Jun 10, 2010)

I have a 1984 ford ranger 4x4 with a manual 5 speed. I have had this particular truck for about 8 months. I mainly use the truck for a hunting/beat around vehicle. A while back i was driving it and noticed that it felt like it was losing power. Sort of like it was cutting off and on. It never fully cut off and stalled out. About 2 months ago I noticed that oil was leaking around the valve cover on one side and i replaced that. Done it before on other vehicles so it wasnt the first time. About 2 weeks later i was driving the truck and it cut off about 2 miles from the house and wouldnt crank back up. The truck will run for about a mile or so and cut off and not crank back up. I've already replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter bc i thought that might have been it but it didnt help.. Anybody out there that might know what the heck is going on?? Its driving me crazy bc i wont take my chevrolet down through the woods and scratch it up. Any help would be greatly appreciated


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## Inthegarge (Jun 10, 2010)

Sounds like the ignition module may be going bad. Take it out and have it checked at auto parts store....RW


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## SC Hunter (Jun 10, 2010)

When the fuel pump was replaced the repair shop i took it too looked over it and the mechanic who worked on it, I work with him at the Fire department and know he knows his stuff but the fuel pump didnt help haha it just gets on my nerves that i have it and cant drive it. Garage i am going to get the ignition module checked that same thought hit me about 30 minutes age


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## Meriwether_Stalker22 (Jun 10, 2010)

when does it crank again?  When it cools off or what?  Is this fuel injected or what?


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## SC Hunter (Jun 10, 2010)

I never has time to get hot to be honest just get warm. It isnt to hot to touch the motor. The motor is carbureted (sp?)


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## dougefresh (Jun 10, 2010)

If there is a relay for the fuel pump it could be going bad. You got me on this one.


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## Slug-Gunner (Jun 10, 2010)

*Engine Type?*



SC Hunter said:


> I have a 1984 ford ranger 4x4 with a manual 5 speed. I have had this particular truck for about 8 months. I mainly use the truck for a hunting/beat around vehicle. A while back i was driving it and noticed that it felt like it was losing power. Sort of like it was cutting off and on. It never fully cut off and stalled out. About 2 months ago I noticed that oil was leaking around the valve cover on one side and i replaced that. Done it before on other vehicles so it wasn't the first time. About 2 weeks later i was driving the truck and it cut off about 2 miles from the house and wouldn't crank back up. The truck will run for about a mile or so and cut off and not crank back up. I've already replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter bc i thought that might have been it but it didnt help.. Anybody out there that might know what the heck is going on?? Its driving me crazy bc i wont take my chevrolet down through the woods and scratch it up. Any help would be greatly appreciated




It might help to know which engine you have in it? 

    *  Available engines
          o 4 Cylinders A 2.3L 1BL
          o 4 Cylinders C 2.0L 1BL
          o 4 Cylinders P 2.2L Diesel
          o 6 Cylinders S 2.8L 2BL


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## Meriwether_Stalker22 (Jun 10, 2010)

if it has a carburetor it may be something keeping the float down. This means there is not enough gas to keep it running once it starts.  When it does it again, pour a little gas in the carb and see if it cranks.  Pour just a little not a lot..........If it cranks and then dies again quickly, then you need to work on the carb........


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## Meriwether_Stalker22 (Jun 10, 2010)

or at least it is still a problem with the fuel system.......


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## SC Hunter (Jun 10, 2010)

Slug gunner it has a 2.8L V6 in it...
Stalker i will try that in the morning since i'm off until saturday i want to try to work on it a little and see what if i can get it running. I appreciate the help bud


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## hoochfisher (Jun 10, 2010)

possible that the carb float is putting to much gas to it and moisture locking the engine.  which is the when the piston cylinders fill with gas and flood. the gas drains past the piston, and the engine will start then repeat the whole process.

pull the oil stick out and see if  it smells like gas.


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## SC Hunter (Jun 10, 2010)

Garage its a mechanical fuel pump so no relay.. 
Hooch i did check the oil after it did it the other day and cant remember it smelling like gas. I am going to try that in the morning as well.


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## SC Hunter (Jun 11, 2010)

Meriwether i tried putting gas in the carb after it died and it didnt want to crank back up. 

Hooch i checked the oil after it cut off and it did smell like gas a little! How do i fix that??


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## hoochfisher (Jun 11, 2010)

> Meriwether i tried putting gas in the carb after it died and it didnt want to crank back up.
> 
> Hooch i checked the oil after it cut off and it did smell like gas a little! How do i fix that??



judging by these statments, your carb is the problem.  you will need to rebuild the carb or replace it. at the very least, take apart and give it a good cleaning.

it sounds as if the carb is sending to much gas and flooding the cylinders. causing what is called "moisture lock". 

and if you have gas in the oil, you will need to drain that oil asap. the gas in it will ruin the bearings in the bottem of the motor.


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## rjcruiser (Jun 11, 2010)

rebuild the carb.  It isn't that hard.  Just keep track of all the little pieces and put them back where they came from.


Only other thing I could think of was if it had an electric or manual choke.  If the choke is staying on, it will choke itself out after getting started.  Are the plugs dark or wet or clean?  Pull them and it will tell you a lot.


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## SC Hunter (Jun 11, 2010)

Hooch i am going to change the oil this afternoon. And going to look around for another carb for it and at re build kits. I have the patience of a 10 year old when it comes to things like this.. haha 

RJ the plugs are dark and wet when i pulled the plugs..


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## rjcruiser (Jun 11, 2010)

SC Hunter said:


> Hooch i am going to change the oil this afternoon. And going to look around for another carb for it and at re build kits. I have the patience of a 10 year old when it comes to things like this.. haha
> 
> RJ the plugs are dark and wet when i pulled the plugs..



you'll save yourself $150 by doing the rebuild yourself.

doesn't take too long to rebuild...just be meticulous with the little screws and jets and springs.

If it is really dirty, let it soak in a carb dip over night.

Do you have electric choke or manual choke?  Either way, with them being wet, you've got too much fuel.


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## SC Hunter (Jun 11, 2010)

It has an electric choke on it. I'm going to rebuild it myself I have a personal battle going on with this truck! I'm probably going to do the rebuild at work bc my captain is a mechanic on the side and one of the other engineers is a mechanic. I can tell you whats going on with a fire truck pump but this is kicking me in the rear HARD!!


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## Monti61 (Jun 11, 2010)

I had a 85 Ranger many years ago with the 2.8. Several of my buddies had them too. There is a little module on backside of the distributor that goes out on them. Don't really remember a lot about it. But I do recall they are hard to get to. May have to take a mirror to see it.


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## Slug-Gunner (Jun 11, 2010)

If you elect to rebuild it, read the instructions thoroughly AND THEN READ THEM AGAIN _BEFORE STARTING_.  Look at the supplied diagrams and see where any small balls are located. Disassemble the carb over a clean white towel.  There are a lot of small clips, springs, and balls inside some of the holes and passages on a carb and are easily lost if they fall out and bounce off of the work table. There is a small metal ball usually located in the bottom of the accelerator pump well.  When you replace this, drop the new ball into place and 'tap it' lightly to seat it properly.  Use the handle end of a small screwdriver to do this using another screwdriver handle to hit it with.  It doesn't require much force, since you are only 'seating it' to make sure the new ball conforms to the seat area and seals properly on the pump stroke, but releases on the intake (release) pump stroke to refill the pump well with gas.

If it has a brown or black composite nitrophyl (plastic like) float in it, REPLACE IT!  The newer ethanol based gasoline can affect these floats and cause them to get HEAVY and not work properly.  I have rebuilt carburetors and actually had these types of floats 'sink' when placed in a jar of gas when the 'problem' was flooding or too much gas.

If you elect to do this yourself, get back with me and I'll explain a few other 'tricks' that make this rebuild an easier process.  When you buy a rebuild kit for your carb, be sure to use the model # that is stamped on the body or side of your carburetor and not just the make,  model, and engine size.  Don't buy the 'cheapest' rebuild kits.... they don't contain ALL the needed replacement parts, o-rings, and gaskets are inferior too.

After you change the oil soon and get the carburetor rebuilt or replaced, CHANGE THE OIL AGAIN just to be safe.  An oil change and filter are a lot cheaper than an engine rebuild due to 'oil failure'.


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## SC Hunter (Jun 13, 2010)

SlugGunner I appreciate the hints and tips i'm not going to try to tackle the carb myself i talked to a guy that is good friends with my grandparents and who rebuilds and works on carbs. I'm going to get him to rebuild it for me. I got the oil changed day before yesterday. I will get back with everybody that gave me insite on the problem. Hopefully the carburetor is the problem


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## Fishin & Hunting (Jun 13, 2010)

I had a Ranger in around the same year.   It had a 2.9 liter engine.  Had some what the same problem.  Found it had two fuel filters in it.  One in the tank, and one before the engine.


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## Meriwether_Stalker22 (Jun 14, 2010)

check all connections around the coil and distributor.........look for something loose.......if it didn't want to crank back up after pouring gas in it, it may be an electrical problem......weird question or something to try.....when the truck is running, try and wiggle the ignition switch and see if you can make it turn off without completely turning off the switch......it's going to be something easy when you find it......


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