# 2000 F150 sometimes won't crank



## mattech (Aug 16, 2018)

A few months ago I went to crank the trunk and no go, not even acting like it wanted to crank. Couldn't hear the fuel pump kick on, so I replaced it. Worked good for a little while. Then sometimes it won't crank and sometimes it will. When it won't it acts like it isn't getting any fuel. Tonight it was acting up, so I put a small squirt of starting fluid in the intake and it fired right up. I let it run 20 minutes and since have crunk it several times with no issue. Do y'all think maybe a not so good fuel pump, or something else.


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## bullfrog79 (Aug 17, 2018)

try replacing the fuel pump relay.


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## mattech (Aug 17, 2018)

I'll give that a try, if the relay wasn't working, why would starting fluid start it and keep it going?


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## T-N-T (Aug 17, 2018)

Fuel filter?


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## T-N-T (Aug 17, 2018)

Maybe the pump went bad due to the same gunk that is in the filter I guess is what I mean.


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## NE GA Pappy (Aug 17, 2018)

bad wiring connection at the fuel pump is pretty common on these trucks


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## mattech (Aug 19, 2018)

It has a new fuel filter.


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## mattech (Aug 19, 2018)

Where would I see a bad connection at, right at the connector to the fuel pump?


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## NE GA Pappy (Aug 19, 2018)

yes, right at the fuel pump, where the wires plug together on top of the tank


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## someguyintraffic (Aug 20, 2018)

mattech said:


> A few months ago I went to crank the trunk and no go, not even acting like it wanted to crank. Couldn't hear the fuel pump kick on, so I replaced it. Worked good for a little while. Then sometimes it won't crank and sometimes it will. When it won't it acts like it isn't getting any fuel. Tonight it was acting up, so I put a small squirt of starting fluid in the intake and it fired right up. I let it run 20 minutes and since have crunk it several times with no issue. Do y'all think maybe a not so good fuel pump, or something else.



Get under the truck and check the wiring on the starter. My 150 had corroded cracked wires. Sometimes itd fire sometimes nothing. On passenger side of motor forward of tire on a 5.4 that year.


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## Buck70 (Aug 23, 2018)

Did you get it figured out?


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## hopper (Aug 24, 2018)

Had a 2000 150 and it was the relay small black box under the hood by the windshield left of center if I remember it.


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## mattech (Aug 25, 2018)

Still haven't figured out the problem but it still hasn't acted up recently also. It doesn't do it all the time, just occasionally. I did buy a fuel pressure guage. When I first turn the key (prime the fuel system) the fuel pressure goes to about 40 Psi. At running it runs around 32psi. If I disconnected the vacuum line off the regulator it jumps back to around 40 psi. I let it sit turned off for about 20 minutes and it held pressure but came back an hour later and the pressure was down to 0 psi. Only thing I've found online states it should hold pressure for at least 5 minutes so I guess it's good. As of now it's still a mystery. 


Btw, I guess I should reword it. It's not a cranking issue, it's a starting issue. It always turns the motor over, just doesn't start sometimes.


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## paulito (Aug 27, 2018)

does that year have the new capless fuel fill? we had a couple of trucks that started not wanting to crank after fill up. Turned out to be the purge canister and/or associated selenoid. It didn't do it all the time but truck would not want to crank after filling up with gas. got progressively worse.


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## mattech (Aug 27, 2018)

No it has a standard cap


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## shdw633 (Aug 30, 2018)

I've had that situation a few times and a friend told me that it was due to condensation build up in the system.  He told me that when it doesn't crank just let it sit for about 30 seconds and try again, which I did and it cranks up everytime.  Not saying that it is the problem you are experiencing but his solution is working for me.


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## Crakajak (Aug 30, 2018)

shdw633 said:


> I've had that situation a few times and a friend told me that it was due to condensation build up in the system.  He told me that when it doesn't crank just let it sit for about 30 seconds and try again, which I did and it cranks up everytime.  Not saying that it is the problem you are experiencing but his solution is working for me.


That has happened on my 2001 4.6 also.


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## mattech (Sep 3, 2018)

Finally was able to have it not crank today while I had the fuel pressure gauge on it. It was only at 20 psi, then I turned the key to off and back to crank it and it started right up. I let the pressure off the guage and the guage has a few feet of clear tubing for the drain. When I first opened the release I saw some very brown old looking gas, but once it built up to 40 psi and started up the fuel in the drain line was clear. I'm wondering if the regulator is bad, but when I removed the vacuum line from it I didn't notice and gas smell or or gas coming out of the line.


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## albrown100 (Sep 3, 2018)

Sounds like you need to drop that tank and clean it if there was nasty stuff in fuel , could be sucking up to fuel pump pick up at times


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## M80 (Sep 9, 2018)

When the truck doesn’t start do you notice the security light flashing. If it does it might be a bad key. If you have another key try using it.


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## mattech (Sep 10, 2018)

No security light flashing.


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## transfixer (Sep 10, 2018)

I would put a fuel pump in it,  especially if it is the orginal one,  the gas we are forced to use now has some percentage of ethanol in it, which will deteriorate the seals in a fuel pump over time,  that is why fuel pumps are replaced much more often in recent years than they used to be. 
    I also think the fuel pressure should be up in the mid to low forties constantly,  instead of being lower like you mentioned a few times.


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## mattech (Sep 10, 2018)

I put a new fuel pump in back in May.


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## Artfuldodger (Sep 10, 2018)

mattech said:


> Still haven't figured out the problem but it still hasn't acted up recently also. It doesn't do it all the time, just occasionally. I did buy a fuel pressure guage. When I first turn the key (prime the fuel system) the fuel pressure goes to about 40 Psi. At running it runs around 32psi. If I disconnected the vacuum line off the regulator it jumps back to around 40 psi. I let it sit turned off for about 20 minutes and it held pressure but came back an hour later and the pressure was down to 0 psi. Only thing I've found online states it should hold pressure for at least 5 minutes so I guess it's good. As of now it's still a mystery.
> 
> 
> Btw, I guess I should reword it. It's not a cranking issue, it's a starting issue. It always turns the motor over, just doesn't start sometimes.



Glad you cleared up the cranking vs starting thing.

Now that you have a fuel gauge, do you have fuel pressure every time you go to start it? Even the times it doesn't start?
It is very intermittent. I could see it as being the relay, wiring, or even the fuel pump not running but if you have fuel pressure at the rail and it still won't start?

If you have fuel pressure and it still won't start, maybe the intermittent problem is electrical and coincidental to say the spraying of starter fluid. You did say you tried to start it, switched it off, tried it again and it started.
Maybe in one of those instances you can check for fuel pressure. Right after you try it an dit won't start look at the gauge.

Edit; I just read your post 18. Must have overlooked it earlier. You are on the right track of monitoring the pressure when it won't start.


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## Artfuldodger (Sep 10, 2018)

mattech said:


> Finally was able to have it not crank today while I had the fuel pressure gauge on it. It was only at 20 psi, then I turned the key to off and back to crank it and it started right up. I let the pressure off the guage and the guage has a few feet of clear tubing for the drain. When I first opened the release I saw some very brown old looking gas, but once it built up to 40 psi and started up the fuel in the drain line was clear. I'm wondering if the regulator is bad, but when I removed the vacuum line from it I didn't notice and gas smell or or gas coming out of the line.



I think those regulators can go bad without the diaphragm leaking. When you remove the vacuum hose from the relay it give the engine fuel pressure all the time. I know some people plug that but it makes your engine run rich. If it's the type that returns the extra fuel to the gas tank.  I wouldn't thing it would keep it from starting though.

Does your truck have one or two fuel filters? Is 20 psi at the rail too low to start the engine? I'm not sure. Just putting some stuff out there.


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## Artfuldodger (Sep 10, 2018)

mattech said:


> Still haven't figured out the problem but it still hasn't acted up recently also. It doesn't do it all the time, just occasionally. I did buy a fuel pressure guage. When I first turn the key (prime the fuel system) the fuel pressure goes to about 40 Psi. At running it runs around 32psi. If I disconnected the vacuum line off the regulator it jumps back to around 40 psi. I let it sit turned off for about 20 minutes and it held pressure but came back an hour later and the pressure was down to 0 psi. Only thing I've found online states it should hold pressure for at least 5 minutes so I guess it's good. As of now it's still a mystery.
> 
> 
> Btw, I guess I should reword it. It's not a cranking issue, it's a starting issue. It always turns the motor over, just doesn't start sometimes.




The return regulator seems to be acting right.

I was reading that your truck has a fuel pump driver module above the spare tire(maybe) and mounted on the axle? They are prone to corrosion.
That's seems like a terrible place to put something like that.


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## transfixer (Sep 10, 2018)

mattech said:


> I put a new fuel pump in back in May.



   It would not be unusual for the fuel pump to still be faulty,  especially if it came from one of the normal discount parts stores,  if it was from Ford,  maybe not,  I've got a good friend that owns a general repair shop not far from me,  he has about 1 out of 3 aftermarket fuel pumps fail within the year warranty,  he tries his best to get his customers to spring for dealer supplied fuel pumps.


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## mattech (Sep 11, 2018)

Artfuldodger said:


> I think those regulators can go bad without the diaphragm leaking. When you remove the vacuum hose from the relay it give the engine fuel pressure all the time. I know some people plug that but it makes your engine run rich. If it's the type that returns the extra fuel to the gas tank.  I wouldn't thing it would keep it from starting though.
> 
> Does your truck have one or two fuel filters? Is 20 psi at the rail too low to start the engine? I'm not sure. Just putting some stuff out there.




It has one fuel filter under the can, and the fuel pump inside the tank has a screen type filter.  



I don't know if 20 psi is to low to start, but the only time it hasn't started since I got a fuel gauge is the only time I've measured at 20 psi. Every other time it prints at 40 and runs at 32.


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## mattech (Sep 11, 2018)

transfixer said:


> It would not be unusual for the fuel pump to still be faulty,  especially if it came from one of the normal discount parts stores,  if it was from Ford,  maybe not,  I've got a good friend that owns a general repair shop not far from me,  he has about 1 out of 3 aftermarket fuel pumps fail within the year warranty,  he tries his best to get his customers to spring for dealer supplied fuel pumps.


It's the orieleys house brand, I am thinking about taking it back, but don't want to have to pull the bed off again.


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## mattech (Sep 11, 2018)

Artfuldodger said:


> The return regulator seems to be acting right.
> 
> I was reading that your truck has a fuel pump driver module above the spare tire(maybe) and mounted on the axle? They are prone to corrosion.
> That's seems like a terrible place to put something like that.




I don't think they started using the driver module until 2003 models, but I have read about them getting corroded.


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## bullfrog79 (Sep 12, 2018)

mattech said:


> I don't think they started using the driver module until 2003 models, but I have read about them getting corroded.


20 psi is not enough.


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## bullfrog79 (Sep 12, 2018)

and no, there is no seperate driver module on these trucks, just the pump assembly.


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## Crakajak (Sep 12, 2018)

A friends 1998 f 150 started having similar issues. 4 tows,4 fuel pumps(2 aftermarket,2 Ford) and a whole lot of money later they finally replace the computer module and the problem seems to have been fixed.
My 2001  did not start one day without any know defect. Let it sit 30 minutes and it started up. I was in a hurry and started the engine without all the lights on the dash completing the start cycle. No problem before or since.


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## mattech (Sep 12, 2018)

There's been several times I turned the key and let it sit for a while before trying to start it to see if the pump just needed longer to prime.


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## transfixer (Sep 12, 2018)

mattech said:


> It's the orieleys house brand, I am thinking about taking it back, but don't want to have to pull the bed off again.


 
      I understand,  he uses Oreillys also,  but like I said,  he tries to talk his customers into a dealer fuel pump instead,   he told me if he has to replace many more under warranty he's going to quit offering aftermarket fuel pumps,  if the customer doesn't want dealer pumps they'll have to go somewhere else.


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## Eudora (Sep 15, 2018)

transfixer said:


> It would not be unusual for the fuel pump to still be faulty,  especially if it came from one of the normal discount parts stores,  if it was from Ford,  maybe not,  I've got a good friend that owns a general repair shop not far from me,  he has about 1 out of 3 aftermarket fuel pumps fail within the year warranty,  he tries his best to get his customers to spring for dealer supplied fuel pumps.


Not necessarily true about aftermarket. AutoZone and many other part stores carry DELPHI fuel pumps and that is who makes them for Ford.


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## transfixer (Sep 15, 2018)

Eudora said:


> Not necessarily true about aftermarket. AutoZone and many other part stores carry DELPHI fuel pumps and that is who makes them for Ford.



They carry many different brands , I'm in this guys shop a couple times a week, as I do his transmission work,  I've seen how many fuel pumps he has had to cover under warranty .  I trust Delphi products myself,  but there are many other brands that are carried by the aftermarket parts stores.


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## Artfuldodger (Sep 18, 2018)

I'm not sure who makes Oreillys fuel pumps. I do know that if something is really hard to swap out, I'd rather have a reputable brand. A heater core comes to mind as an example.

So the last two options of advice is a fuel pump swap or computer. Maybe a computer from Pull-A-Part? 

Or try another brand of fuel pump. Airtex pumps have some complaints on the internet but it is a popular brand. 

Ran across this;
Airtex: Cheap but quality is inconsistent, and plenty of duds in their product line.

Spectra: Cheap and poor quality.

AC Delco / Delphi: Generally good quality and reliable. General Motors OEM. 

Bosch: Generally good quality and reliable, but you have to buy their fuel strainer separately.

Walbro: Generally good quality and reliable. Reportedly noisy, though.

Denso: Generally good quality and reliable. Still made in Japan.

Motorcraft: Total crap shoot. Some are reported to be rebadged Bosch, some are rebadged Airtex. Expensive for what you get, which could be someone else's cheaper fuel pump, stuck in a Ford box. 

Bosch and Denso are brands I am used to on other things, not fuel pumps. I kinda go with what the internet forums suggest such as a Denso A/F sensor for a 4Runner over Bosch.


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## Artfuldodger (Sep 18, 2018)

Read this on a Bronco forum;

Man up
Delphi/AC-Delco or Bosch

Or replace it in a month to a year.


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## Eudora (Sep 21, 2018)

The "O" brand in their box is mostly Carter. I would stay as far  away from Airtex as possible. Like I have mentioned before, there is a BIG difference in ACDelco and GM Goodwrench parts and Motorcraft and their Blue Oval parts. ACDelco and Motorcraft are for the most part "spreadsheet bought" for aftermarket consumers which means they buy from a lot of different manufacturers to maximize their margins. They are both a BRAND since neither own a parts factory. Never consistant on which part comes from where. Open their box and it may be an Airtex, Carter, Delphi, Walboro ..... just whatever fits that application at the best price. They, especially ACDelco, moved this way when they went to a "all makes-all models" marketing idea which means they have a fuel pump or other part to fit a Lexus or other non GM vehicle. They dont own a factory, so they have to buy from multiple vendors to fill the boxes. I've been in the aftermarket parts biz for well over 30 years and been to factories all over the world and seen finished product on pallets in a rainbow of boxes. With all the retailers trying to be the "cheapest", everybody is working diligently to be find that sweet-spot of quality and low price. In buying a fuelpump, I would look for OE suppliers in the aftermarket biz too. They know the specs and have most likely bid on a OE platform and maybe didn't win the contract because they were $.30 to high on that unit (multiply 150,000 cars built x $.30 and it adds up). They have the OE specs and know how to build it in their plants for the aftermarket by using components already in production. Just a few modifications to fit and it will work to OE specs. It was not "reverse engineered" like the non OE parts suppliers.  Long winded reply, but hope this helps.


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## mattech (Sep 27, 2018)

Well it acted up again on me yesterday, I checked the fuel pressure gauge and had 0 psi, turned the key off an on about a dozen times with no change. Climbed down, unplugged the fuel pump and checked the connections.  All looked great, plugged it back up and it still would build any pressure. After about 5-6 more times of priming ( off-acc position with the key) it finally went to 20 psi, I primed it again and it went to 30 psi, I primed it again and it went to 40 psi, so I finally turned the key to start it and it started right up.  I'm really feeling like the pressure regulator is sticking, it seems to only act up after it's sat for a week or so.


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## bullfrog79 (Sep 28, 2018)

mattech said:


> Well it acted up again on me yesterday, I checked the fuel pressure gauge and had 0 psi, turned the key off an on about a dozen times with no change. Climbed down, unplugged the fuel pump and checked the connections.  All looked great, plugged it back up and it still would build any pressure. After about 5-6 more times of priming ( off-acc position with the key) it finally went to 20 psi, I primed it again and it went to 30 psi, I primed it again and it went to 40 psi, so I finally turned the key to start it and it started right up.  I'm really feeling like the pressure regulator is sticking, it seems to only act up after it's sat for a week or so.


put a pump in it..


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## Dieseltech (Oct 2, 2018)

It's the pump. Spring for a motorcraft. Have been through this on my wifes old truck and with customers several times.


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## jcountry (Oct 15, 2018)

I had a honda like that one time.   The fuel pump relay didn’t like hot weather.   It was so common with that model that the Honda parts guy kept a bucket behind the counter full of them


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## mattech (Oct 20, 2018)

Truck acted up again today. Did a prime about 20 times and wouldn't build any pressure. Took out the old fuel pressure regulator and primed it with nothing there. It shot alot of gas out of the fuel rail. Put a new regulator in and first time it primed up to 40 psi instantly. I'm hoping this does fix it.


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## mattech (Oct 28, 2018)

Well, the regulator didn't fix it. Pulled the fuel pump back out and swapped it out. Guess we will see what happens.


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## Buck70 (Oct 29, 2018)

Diagnosing by credit card can get expensive.


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## mattech (Dec 15, 2018)

The saga continues, for the first time it left me stranded on the side of the road. Actually died on me while driving, and of course at night in the rain. Had a friend tow me home last night. Got to thinking there ain't no way I've got another bad fuel pump, so I said what the heck and got a fuel pump relay, only a $14 deal so no worries, tried once more to start it up with no luck, popped in the new relay and it started right up. May be a coincidence, but I don't think so, gonna give it some time and see how it goes.


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## NE GA Pappy (Dec 15, 2018)

mercy... 4 months of worrying and struggling with that thing.


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## mattech (Dec 15, 2018)

If it was a daily driver It would have been handled sooner, but I may not crank but every week or two.


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## NE GA Pappy (Dec 15, 2018)

why can't things be simple?


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## Pig Predator (Dec 16, 2018)

NE GA Pappy said:


> why can't things be simple?


It was.....hopefully. Thats what relays are for. It wouldn't surprise me if water may have gotten in there some how.


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## Foxfire (Dec 16, 2018)

Shoulda bought Chevrolet, my 2000, no problems.


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## NE GA Pappy (Dec 16, 2018)

Pig Predator said:


> It was.....hopefully. Thats what relays are for. It wouldn't surprise me if water may have gotten in there some how.



sounds like Matt took the scenic route to get there though.  That is the bad part.


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## NE GA Pappy (Dec 16, 2018)

Foxfire said:


> Shoulda bought Chevrolet, my 2000, no problems.


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## Pig Predator (Dec 16, 2018)

NE GA Pappy said:


> sounds like Matt took the scenic route to get there though.  That is the bad part.


It's happened to me too! But on the bright side....look at all the shiny new stuff on your junk truck @mattech


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## mattech (Dec 16, 2018)

Pig Predator said:


> It's happened to me too! But on the bright side....look at all the shiny new stuff on your junk truck @mattech




That's one way I look at it. I plan to have this truck for a long long time, so I don't mind replacing things.


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## Pig Predator (Dec 16, 2018)




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## NE GA Pappy (Dec 16, 2018)




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## NE GA Pappy (Dec 16, 2018)




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## NE GA Pappy (Dec 16, 2018)

they dun spelt shivy RONG


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## Pig Predator (Dec 16, 2018)




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## Pig Predator (Dec 16, 2018)




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## NE GA Pappy (Dec 16, 2018)

Pig Predator said:


> View attachment 952950



now this one I like!


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## mattech (Dec 16, 2018)

Lol


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