# Best way to strip paint of Jon Boat and Trailer.



## JW2 (Jan 5, 2010)

I have tried liquid paint stripper, but it isn't taking the last layer well at all. This thing has like 4 layers of paint. Tried an orbital and belt sander, but it is a looooong slow process and the paint just bogs down the sand paper. Could I use an angle grinder with a wire wheel? Would that even work? Any other suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks, Jeff.


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## brokenskeg (Jan 5, 2010)

Thats zinc chromate primer . Its very tough to remove . And you definitely shouldnt be breathing that stuff if your sanding . I just redid an older Duracraft from bow to stern , and you DONT want to use a grinder . It digs in too much , and you will have to do some serious sanding to get the grooves out so that the paint will cover. Be patient with the stripper . If you can , get some aircraft stripper , it makes life ALOT easier . Please feel free to PM me if you have any questions .


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## jimbo4116 (Jan 5, 2010)

Rent a small sandblaster or have it sandblasted.

Machine/welding shops sometimes do sandblasting.


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## JW2 (Jan 5, 2010)

jimbo4116 said:


> Rent a small sandblaster or have it sandblasted.
> 
> Machine/welding shops sometimes do sandblasting.



Any idea about what that would cost?


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## jimbo4116 (Jan 5, 2010)

JW2 said:


> Any idea about what that would cost?



Not really.  I had a trailer sandblasted. But they were doing a bigger job at the time and my best freind owns the shop.

I think he charge $60 for the labor he had in it. 

Most equipment rental stores rent small units and sell the sand.  Call around.  

The pictures don't show any rust on the welds, just the inside of that strut. Unless you have a lot of exposed metal with rust I would just finish sanding it smooth, prime and paint.

Don't try to remove all the paint. Just get down smooth unless you are going to have it professionally painted or powdercoated.


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## JW2 (Jan 5, 2010)

jimbo4116 said:


> Not really.  I had a trailer sandblasted. But they were doing a bigger job at the time and my best freind owns the shop.
> 
> I think he charge $60 for the labor he had in it.
> 
> ...





Ok, thanks man!


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## 243Savage (Jan 5, 2010)

> get some aircraft stripper



I second the vote for that stuff.  I used it years ago while restoring an old truck and the paint/primer just slid right off the bare shiny metal.


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## Streetsweeper (Jan 5, 2010)

Stripper is the way to go, just lay it on heavy and walk away. The longer you leave it on, the better it will work.


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## Browning1 (Jan 6, 2010)

If you are going to use aircraft stripper- put a heavy coat on  then cover with plastic- helps hold in solvents. Once paint bubbles up, scrape off, sand prime and paint.


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## Dead Eye Eddy (Jan 6, 2010)

You're in L'ville.  I have a buddy in Buford who can sand blast it.  I have no idea of the price.  PM me if you'd like his number.


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## Doyle (Jan 7, 2010)

Do you have a Harbor Freight near you?   My buddy bought a cheap blaster from them (it was way cheaper than renting) to do his jeep.  That thing works great.  It probably wouldn't last long in a professional environment but it works fine for doing odd jobs.


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## Brine (Jan 11, 2010)

Browning1 said:


> If you are going to use aircraft stripper- put a heavy coat on  then cover with plastic- helps hold in solvents. Once paint bubbles up, scrape off, sand prime and paint.



X2

Like someone else said....if you're simply repainting the trailer, I'd reconsider taking it all the way down to bare steel. 

FYI, the the quotes I got for sandblasting my trailer was $175-$250 over the summer. I ended up using Herculiner on the trailer and had no reason to take it to bare metal, so I just hit it with the cup brush, wiped it down with Acetone, then applied the Herculiner. 

Also, like someone else said.....make sure to avoid inhaling that stuff (or the aluminum dust on your jon boat) in the process.


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## JW2 (Jan 13, 2010)

Brine said:


> X2
> 
> Like someone else said....if you're simply repainting the trailer, I'd reconsider taking it all the way down to bare steel.
> 
> ...



I like the Herculiner idea. I may just do that! What about Herculiner for the outide of the boat? Think that would be too much weight? I already have casting decks built in.


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## Brine (Jan 14, 2010)

No, I wouldn't put it on the outside of the boat. The weight would be similar to using paint, but the texture will only create drag. I also think the texture is a little too aggressive for having your fishing line rub against it (in the case that you are trying to land a 5# fish that decides to run under the boat) and it's not engineered to be submerged in water. It would eventually peel off.


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## jimbo4116 (Jan 14, 2010)

JW2 said:


> I like the Herculiner idea. I may just do that! What about Herculiner for the outide of the boat? Think that would be too much weight? I already have casting decks built in.



Google Durabak.  They have a smooth version.  I have thought about doing the same thing and an old fisher 14 ft. I have to stop leaks around rivets and seal pitting in the skin.

2 gallons would cover bottom and sides of 1436.  Cost $28.50 plus shipping.


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## Brine (Jan 15, 2010)

jimbo4116 said:


> Google Durabak.  They have a smooth version.  I have thought about doing the same thing and an old fisher 14 ft. I have to stop leaks around rivets and seal pitting in the skin.
> 
> 2 gallons would cover bottom and sides of 1436.  Cost $28.50 plus shipping.



If you can get at the rivets, I'd suggest rebucking them to solve the problem. Do you know why the pitting is occuring? Make sure you don't have an issue with ground in your electrical. Typically, aluminum doesn't play nice with anything other than stainless steel or aluminum.  There are a few products designed to seal, but both are kinda pricey. Gluvit on the inside, and Steelflex on the outside.


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## jimbo4116 (Jan 15, 2010)

Brine said:


> If you can get at the rivets, I'd suggest rebucking them to solve the problem. Do you know why the pitting is occuring? Make sure you don't have an issue with ground in your electrical. Typically, aluminum doesn't play nice with anything other than stainless steel or aluminum.  There are a few products designed to seal, but both are kinda pricey. Gluvit on the inside, and Steelflex on the outside.



Tired of rebucking rivet,  have to remove carpet and Aluminum flooring I put in.  Boat is 23 years old, corrosion due to electrolysis  from letting is sit in the water no doubt.  No penetration through the metal yet.

Figure the Durabak would only add 20# at most, possibly solve both problems and cost only around $40. Drag is not an issue as I only use it on the small river and creeks around here. No need for speed.


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## Brine (Jan 20, 2010)

jimbo4116 said:


> Tired of rebucking rivet,  have to remove carpet and Aluminum flooring I put in.  Boat is 23 years old, corrosion due to electrolysis  from letting is sit in the water no doubt.  No penetration through the metal yet.
> 
> Figure the Durabak would only add 20# at most, possibly solve both problems and cost only around $40. Drag is not an issue as I only use it on the small river and creeks around here. No need for speed.



I'd call Durabak and ask them about your application. I just read on another forum that Durabak told someone that it is not intended to be used below the waterline.


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## jimbo4116 (Jan 21, 2010)

Brine said:


> I'd call Durabak and ask them about your application. I just read on another forum that Durabak told someone that it is not intended to be used below the waterline.



Yep! got that answer too.  But have a friend that owns a body shop and sprays bedliners.  He thinks if you put it on up to the gunwales so water couldn't infiltrate behind the paint, it would stick  and the mfg isn't going to authorize that application.

For 60 bucks, i think I am going to try it.


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## bnew17 (Jan 22, 2010)

i used a sandblaster on my small 12ft jon boat, worked great.


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