# Enclosed Trailer Camper Conversion



## mattuga

I am planning to buy a 7' x 16' (7' ceiling) enclosed trailer to convert into a camper for hunting camp during season.  I want the ramp back opening and RV style side door with a window.  I would like to know of anyone with past experience.  I've seen ideas all over the internet and other examples but want to hear words of experience.

I do not need plumbing but would like elec hookup just like an RV to power 2-3 outlets within the trailer, common accessory.  I would like to hear of other things I haven't thought of.  I have my layout in mind just curious how people put outlets in and run lights.  I'm thinking of a double mattress coming off the wall in the back and a sink/cabinets at the front, one fold down table in between I want to keep it pretty open so it can still be used as a trailer for the ranger etc.  Not looking for AC except maybe a portable one and will use propane to heat with gas detector installed or electric heater.  I plan to have it set up where the ramp in the back converts to a deck with proper support, bad idea due to increased stress on door?  I could just have a dirt porch out of side door.  I've had trailer issues in the past and I will be buying new most likely.  I have an inquiry to the trailer shop with questions and would like to know what to ask for if anything is particularly important.


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## GT-40 GUY

Why not buy a used trailer with all the things you need like I did. It was gutted so I painted the inside, added carpet and two queen size beds plus two 60 watt lights ( not florescent) with plugins. 

gt40


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## mattuga

I want a new skeleton and not all the useless gadgets (for me) that come with a camper.  I just need a space to sleep with a plug in to run a heater.  As I stated in the previous post I've had trailer issues, I want new structure.  RV's are a huge risk for my needs, I want something that is a great traveler.  Buying an enclosed trailer offers a much much higher resale value as it is a 2 purpose sale.  Pretty sure my post was crystal clear about my desires so I'm hoping for advice pointed toward my questions as opposed to other options.  

Thank you for the input GT-40, I did look at that option and it isn't a fit for me.  New trailer, retro fitted.  Have you ever loaded a Polaris Ranger into your RV?


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## mattuga

If I did go the camper route I'd be looking hard at the aluminum ones.  That one looks awesome, cool you found it gutted.  Look too big for what I can get but nice that it was gutted.  I just want those brand new bearings and axles that I've had fail on me previously, not having that stress is worth a lot to me.


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## lbzdually

I like trailers because they are a cheap man toy hauler.  Flip down beds so you can carry a lot of cargo, flip down tables for the same reason.  Running power is easy, if it is a bare trailer.  You need to run 3-4 outlet on each side of the trailer with separate circuits.  Then insulate with foam sheets or stick on foil and out luan over it.


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## mattuga

lbzdually said:


> I like trailers because they are a cheap man toy hauler.  Flip down beds so you can carry a lot of cargo, flip down tables for the same reason.  Running power is easy, if it is a bare trailer.  You need to run 3-4 outlet on each side of the trailer with separate circuits.  Then insulate with foam sheets or stick on foil and out luan over it.



Exactly how i plan it, I'd have it finished with wood if insulated but they already come "wood finished".  How important is added insulation?  I can handle a 50 degree camper in sub freezing temps if the heaters do enough.  We have power in camp so having a RV electric plug is requirement.  Solar stuff added later


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## Milkman

I have not done an enclosed trailer like you plan to do.  However, I knew a guy who did some "improvements" to one for an out west hunting trip several years ago.  He did as you are suggesting and made it for the center to be clear for atvs and gear.  His trailer was one with the side door and a drop tailgate. 

He did some hinged bunks from the side to accommodate 4 people. Used 2x4s and plywood with hinges and support cables to accomplish this. 

He installed a small counter top with some drawers and mounted it in the nose of the trailer for a "kitchen" of sorts. Just a cheapo unit from Home depot. 

Installed a wall hung infrared heater with hose going outside to connect to 20 lb gas cylinder. (IMO one of the newer large buddy heaters with the built in tip over and CO2 sensors may be better.)

Did some minimal wiring and lighting for use with a cord run outside to a portable generator.  

No accommodation made for toilet or shower.  

Since you plan to wire yours a small breaker panel could be mounted with AC, lighting, and outlets tied to that. I would suggest running conduit for extra protection for your wiring.

Good luck with the project.   Take pics and share as you go along !!


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## HM

Check this one out:
http://thetinylife.com/cargo-trailer-takes-off-grid-off-the-radar/?utm_content=buffer5d693&utm_medium=social&utm_source=pinterest.com&utm_campaign=buffer


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## Rich M

GT-40 GUY said:


> Why not buy a used trailer with all the things you need like I did. It was gutted so I painted the inside, added carpet and two queen size beds plus two 60 watt lights ( not florescent) with plugins.
> 
> gt40



I HAVE a 12x7 cargo trailer and put cots inside it, portable A/C, electric heat.

Windows can cost a ton - check them out before you do much.

I think I'd prefer a camper trailer.  

I know it isn't what you want to hear...so just disregard it.  Comment is for other folks who might be considering it.


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## j_seph

Propane/gas heater sounds scary in one of these


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## BigCats

Had some friends to out of town working a ice storm one year and they almost died while running a heater be carefull.


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## mattuga

Thank you for the concern, they make gas detectors for that reason.  

I was really hoping for more applicable advice thinking more people had done this project.  Rich_M, thank you for the input even though you have regrets.  From my research a window is only $70ish if factory installed.  I'm having this trailer done custom and will order what I can upfront to make the interior build minimal.  Thanks for the input.


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## paulito

Repost this in the camping/RV section of the forum. Those guys over there will probably flood you with ideas. they have always been really helpful with my questions.


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## mattuga

Great idea, I wondered if this belonged somewhere else but I didn't look hard enough.  Thank you.


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## Miguel Cervantes

BigCats said:


> Had some friends to out of town working a ice storm one year and they almost died while running a heater be carefull.





mattuga said:


> Thank you for the concern, they make gas detectors for that reason.
> 
> I was really hoping for more applicable advice thinking more people had done this project.  Rich_M, thank you for the input even though you have regrets.  From my research a window is only $70ish if factory installed.  I'm having this trailer done custom and will order what I can upfront to make the interior build minimal.  Thanks for the input.



CO detectors are only as good as their batteries. I've experienced severe CO poisoning from exposure in a camper and it's nothing that I would ever rely on a device to save me from in the future. 

Generator + Electric heat = the only safe choice.


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## j_seph

http://tinyhousetalk.com/2k-stealth-tiny-house/

http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=13486.0

http://www.cheaprvliving.com/living-converted-cargo-trailer/


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## jtm402

Just a thought, I don't know the details but a friend of mine rigged up his cargo trailer to hang hammocks inside which would save space on bed frame/cot.


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## DeucesWild

A good used "Work and Play" would be what your looking for


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## roperdoc

My buddy has an 8x24 with 4 bunks in the rear that fold, and a folding table up front. Cabinets with a sink up front and a shower stall that is used almost exclusively for storage. Room for up to 6-7 people if cots are used, comfortable for 4-5. We also have a 6x10 that is basically a gear hauler with two cots and storage cabinet in the front.
A buddy heater will keep either warm when people are in and out. It will run you out when sleeping, even on low. Even in Colorado. The upper bunks especially get hot. Its nice to be able to load up a sxs,gear and dog boxes but it is a load to pull. Sounds like you will have a more moderate loading.
 Get the options you want up front. It's cheaper and easier than adding later and its no fun to lie in bed thinking "I wish I had gone ahead and gotten ...."
Windows especially are nice, and have it framed for an ac. The cost for framing now is very little and you never know when you might want to add it.
Consider an awning.
Have the ceiling insulated or do it yourself to avoid condensation problems. Wood lined walls aren't too bad without insulation especially in Georgia where we never really get too cold.
 A vent or two will help with fresh air. These trailers are pretty tight. A screw in hatch for boat decks makes a handy vent in the floor as well as a port for power cords or sink drain lines.
A 12v circuit with a couple led lights is handy, especially in the yard packing or on the road when power isn't nearby. Add a red one for night use without waking everybody up. Put a light on the outside of the trailer also or wire an exterior outlet that you can use to plug up a light, fan, etc.
 We ran a gas line to the heater inside and also have hook ups for cooking outside. Folding table/counters are mounted on the outside to keep cooking odors and mess outside. Don't mount your exterior lights directly over the stove or you will eat a lot of bugs.
An 8 to15 gallon 12v sprayer tank works great for water supply to a sink. Drain the sink outside or use a bucket under the drain.
I have wondered about the ramp door as a porch. The plywood will need to be sealed and protected from weather and a wall/door fabricated for the rear, perhaps plywood that hinges/fits inside the frame? That would allow closing and locking the rear if you leave camp for a
while.
Post up what you come up with. I'm considering a 7x16 or so trailer now as well.


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## mattuga

Awesome insight Roper and others.  Roper, that experience of details is perfect.  I did not take lightly the gas concern, thank you (Miguel for details) for the input and my plan has changed, electric only ($325 addition to trailer for outlets).   I've decided to go with a 6x12 most likely since I just don't really need a bigger living space at this time with no kids and 2-3 people max.  Roper, I can get a new trailer and not regret having not gotten the options I want that I can't do cheaply/knowledge (electrical, windows, vents) cheaper up front.  Dead on accurate info there.

Can I move this to the RV forum or does a Moderator need to do it?  I'd hate to repost without content stated used as well to keep a cleaner thread forum.  Thanks GON, yall rock.  I could not find a thread with much on this topic.


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## Milkman

Any mod or admin can move it

Send a pm to one


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## roperdoc

A buddy heater works well if power is out/generator not running. We warm the trailer at night then cut the gas off while sleeping to keep from getting too hot. We have a cut off where the line comes in. First man up in the morning cuts the heater on and starts the coffee.
 Make your bunks high enough to slide a tote or footlocker under. Storage space will be at a premium. The foam interlocking floor pads for kids rooms or workshops are great on the floor, washable and easy to move out of the way for hauling 4 wheelers and gear. 
Consider torsion axles, Possibly with a little extra down angle if you will pulling in and out of many rough roads. The standard drop axles are ok if you have decent roads where you camp.
 You will have fun figuring out how to customize your trailer to suit your needs. And then recustomizing to better suit your real needs. THEN spotting another trailer done the way you wish you'd thought of!


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## ben300win

I have a 6x12 Vee Nose. It works Great. I installed a window unit in the top of the Vee part. I have two exhaust ports for the heat to go out and a turtleback roof vent on top for fresh air intake. Has shelves in the front for storage. I ran conduit and three outlets at the roof line on one side. The roof now has drop ceiling tiles double thick to insulate the heat and sound. I also installed a few RV style windows. My problem is my ranger is too tall for the back door so I had to make the last two feet sloped to allow it to go in. I also upgraded to the 5200 lb brake xe. I plan to install a hitch to be able to tow my boat in back too.


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## GSUbackwoods

http://forum.eastmans.com/showthrea...ion/page10?highlight=cargo+trailer+conversion


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## saltysenior

i had the same thoughts about doing the same thing....the cost &time vrs. a used camper was about a tossup.....but then a friend said ''who you going to sell it to when you move up''???


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## mattuga

I do not want or need a used camper, no more advice wanted on that front.  Simple living needs separate the wants from a trailer vs a camper.  I do not want a camper.  Thank you for the advice but holy cow I don't want to say that again.  As I've asked before, who loads a golf cart/trailer inside a camper...answer is no one without expensive mods.  Please focus on the original question.


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## Monty4x4

Have you thought about getting a used camper?

haha jk, couldnt resist.  I actually have a 2011 camper that I bought new.  its super nice but Im thinking of selling it so I can do what you wanna do.  Just looking for the right shell to make it worth it to me.


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## mattuga

I shoulda left this thread in the Deer forum.  I am very surprised at the lack of data/input out there for rough camping enclosed trailer options.  Must be why I see people trying to resell my similar idea for $6k with $4k put into it.  If you have done an enclosed trailer turned camper I have a simple design for sleeping just looking to know major mistakes.  I'll install 2 windows but everything else will be manufacture install with the options offered.


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## Crakajak

You will need to figure out how to remove gas/oil fumes/deposits from remaining if any spills on the floor during transport. I like the hammock idea..


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## LT4247

I have done what you plan. 
I used a V nose Horton trailer (made here in GA) for on site motorcycle rallys and did accessory sales.  I Believe it was 7x16 tandem with the full ramp in rear and a camper side door with screen.  We used it to hawl 2 display motorcycles and inventory for the show, tent, tables, chairs etc.  

Once set up and empty, we used the trailer for "camping".  Worked perfect if you dont need plumbing (which you said you don't).  We just used the bath house like tent camping.  We used this set up in winter and summer.  We have stayed in the trailer during heavy rains, heat, cold, and was always comfortable. 
We had it set up so:

- Roof heating and A/C
- 3 4 foot flourescent light fixtures
- fully insulated (pack in all you can) walls
- full wood panel interior
- push out vents front and rear (like a horse trailer)
- Fold out bunks mounted to each wall (4)
- various racks inside and front cabinet
- removable floor tie downs
- full camper electrical connections to power everything
- Honda generator if no power

This trailer was purpose built to spec at Horton.   Horton is top quality.  It was pretty too. Solid white trimmed in aluminum tread plate with nice wheels on Dexter tandem axles.  Cost was around $8k in 2004.  Pulled straight and secure.  Never a minute trouble.  Wish i still had it.


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## lbzdually

mattuga said:


> I shoulda left this thread in the Deer forum.  I am very surprised at the lack of data/input out there for rough camping enclosed trailer options.  Must be why I see people trying to resell my similar idea for $6k with $4k put into it.  If you have done an enclosed trailer turned camper I have a simple design for sleeping just looking to know major mistakes.  I'll install 2 windows but everything else will be manufacture install with the options offered.



For AC, I would go with a portable unit.  That way all you have to have is a small exhaust hole and you can place it anywhere you want to.  You want as much insulation you can get in, because the metal skin of the trailer heats up and cools down very fast.  The added bonus of insulation is that it will cut down on noise.  For a heater, A Buddy heater will be perfect.  We used one in my 16 foot enclosed trailer and 30 ft gooseneck enclosed and it kept it comfortable.  They have low oxygen shutdown, but I would put a CO detector also to be safe.  With the vent on top open slightly (another reason to have the portable ac) you always have a fresh supply of oxygen.


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## mattuga

Thank you for the details guys.  I like em, good stuff


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## Cricket Chunker

I used to have a 24' travel trailer and I dry camped a lot.  I found that it was easier to run once of those 120v ceramic heaters than it was to use the LP gas furnace in mine.  I had 2 of the EU2000 Honda generators and had up to 33amps available.  The EU Honda's (and similar in other brands) are super quiet and I only needed to run one for more than enough heat.  If I ran the heater on high it would run you out of the trailer.  Now my trailer had the typical 13,000 btu roof mounted AC unit, but IBZDUALLY is right, now days for a trailer like you are talking about one of the portable models would be a better fit. Small hole in the skin of the trailer (and not on the roof), means less chance of rain intrusion.  I have one of those AC units that I use when the power goes out in the summer.  It only draws about 7 amps so it is nothing for one of the Honda's to run it all day long.  I bought a refurbished LG unit and it cools great.  It's the 12,000 btu LG.  They also have models that are AC/dehumidifier/and heater all in one.

The other upside of going with the quiet generators and a portable AC and ceramic heater is, when the power goes out at your house, just chain it down and run a 12 guage extension cord and you can move the AC or heater inside until the power comes back on.  You can also keep the fridge & freezer running (I use 2 generators, one dedicated for the 2 fridges and 1 freezer and the other for the portable AC/heater, lights and to run the TV and satellite receiver.  Throw in a portable gas grill like the Weber Q and you are good to go either camping or in an extended power outage.   I sold the trailer years ago, but kept the 2 Honda EU2000's for the above reasons.


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## Oldstick

Well I have one of those fold up green porta-pottys you can have when you get done with the trailer.  The Coleman (I think) that uses the disposable gel bags.

Only one bag run through it that I recall.


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## normaldave

Well, I've done almost exactly what you've asked for...

Long time guest lurker here, campfire, political, weather, and wouldn't you know it took a cargo trailer conversion question to draw me in.

To save conversation here is my build, along with lots of others, don't get lost over there, get your ideas and bring them back here.

http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=48345

I didn't forget to add the A/C option: 
http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=49438#p956281

-Windows? have them factory installed and offset for better light and airflow.

-RV door with screen is an awesome option.

-Electric, I run 15 amps through a WFCO converter (like a popup has) also run a 12 Volt gel cell battery for 12V options. I ran armorflex type wiring with metal boxes and GFCI outlets 2 inside, 1 outside with weatherproof cover.

-Ramp doors are often used as a screened in porch, just bring along two  auto type jackstands. We preferred barn doors for our use, and just add ramps for loading our lawn equipment for mowing on our church volunteer days.

-Insulation, absolute must, and do it yourself.  The best benefit of the cargo conversion is the strength in the steel tubing welded into the frame/walls/roof.  The downside is the heat sink properties, cold/heat transfer from the exterior to the interior, work to reduce that issue and you're golden.

-Install a Fantastic vent fan in the ceiling vent hole, to keep airflow up.

We use ours all the time, even for day trips kayaking, since we are able to secure all our gear, and have a changing room for wet clothes, etc.

I guess the most fun is when somebody with a large camper comes by and wants to tour our little mobile toy hauler shack.  Most frequent comment is: It's really all you need, or something like that.

If we were to do it again, well, I think we would do just that type of build, it was paid for when we finished, I think that makes it really enjoyable.

Good Luck


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## saltysenior

after years of camping I think one of the most important items is a awning....


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## lbzdually

saltysenior said:


> after years of camping I think one of the most important items is a awning....



Yes, great to get in out of the rain/heat.  You can take off shoes so you don't get the inside dirty.


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## Bkeepr

I have an enclosed trailer that is 6 by 12, has a ramp and a side door.  It is wired for electricity.  I have a work bench built into one side of it and I use it for my tiny art studio/storage.

In hunting season it will be my tiny camper.  I will make screens to hang over the door and the ramp to keep out skeeters, plus I have a fan that runs on batteries or AC.  I have a 10 by 10 pop up shade  to cover the ramp, which with jacks will become my "porch".  I would like to go solar eventually.


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## mattuga

Incredible advice throughout this for me, thank you folks!  I even have a GON member that I am probably buying from who took a similar initiative.  This forum is so so helpful I cannot explain my gratefulness.  I'll post pics of finished product.


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## mattuga

*Bought a 7'x12' with 2' V-nose*

It is tall with 7' interior height and I even bought it from a forum member.  He saw this thread and said he had my similar intentions but got access to another option so this was barely used and bought late in 2014.  I feel like we both got a reasonable deal, I couldn't low ball anyone much less a fellow GON guy and he priced it fairly.

1 interior and 1 exterior electrical outlet
2 ceiling vents
2 ceiling lights
stabilizers
finished ceiling
RV door
ramp back door

It is basically perfect for my first try at this, hopefully that sentiment remains thru this process.  I have simple inside plans since this custom build job hit most all of my requirements from the factory.  Just a couple cabinets.  I cannot decide on whether to put a gravity sink in.  Camp has water elsewhere so probably going to try without to start.  I like the canopy cover with a covered area outside door, we are planning on that.  Thanks for all the ideas.


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## Monty4x4

Congrats.  Please keep us posted with pictures through the process


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## lbzdually

mattuga said:


> It is tall with 7' interior height and I even bought it from a forum member.  He saw this thread and said he had my similar intentions but got access to another option so this was barely used and bought late in 2014.  I feel like we both got a reasonable deal, I couldn't low ball anyone much less a fellow GON guy and he priced it fairly.
> 
> 1 interior and 1 exterior electrical outlet
> 2 ceiling vents
> 2 ceiling lights
> stabilizers
> finished ceiling
> RV door
> ramp back door
> 
> It is basically perfect for my first try at this, hopefully that sentiment remains thru this process.  I have simple inside plans since this custom build job hit most all of my requirements from the factory.  Just a couple cabinets.  I cannot decide on whether to put a gravity sink in.  Camp has water elsewhere so probably going to try without to start.  I like the canopy cover with a covered area outside door, we are planning on that.  Thanks for all the ideas.



The V-nose is a great place for storage and helps with fuel mileage a bit also.  You can put the portable ac up there with the vent through the floor right at the front of the v-nose.


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## fisherpal2k

*trailer conversion*

Hi, I am also doing what you are doing to convert a trailer into a useable camper but I also want to keep the use of a trailer. I have decided to go with no hook ups as where I use it there is no power or hook ups. I guess you could use a generator if needed. 

   I started with a 7x14 v nose trailer and took it home. Bought some bits for the battery drill and went to work. I removed the plywood walls inside and went to Lowes to buy 1" foam board insulation. I got the closed cell foam as it does not leave an odor in the trailer. I cut it to size and installed it in the walls.

   Before reinstalling the plywood, I made sure of the wiring connections and made sure the ground wires were tight. Reinstalled the plywood and trim and painted the inside of the trailer. I ran extra wires thru the top rails to each side for later use. 

   After painting the walls and trim I bought some LED light strips 16' long and used the 3m tape supplied to add them around the top of the trailer on the inside. I also have one to put on the outside when I finish getting the rest of the interior done. I bought an rv 3 gang switch from amazon with the light strips and also two stabilizer jacks for the rear to help stabilize it while camping.

  I removed the small battery box for the brakes from the tongue of the trailer and made a stainless tray to mount back on it. I will have a 12 volt deep cycle battery and a 20lb propane tank on the tongue. I ran a 12 gauge wire into the trailer to a fuse block and will pull the wires for the lights and sensor wires from it. 

   I am currently installing a counter top in the front as I have decided to not have a cabinet. I can use the underside for storage and use the top as a table or counter to cook on if needed. I am installing an 18" cabinet beside the top on the left side to store cooking utensils and towels and bedding.  

  I plan on using cots to sleep in as I can take them up to haul the 4 wheeler or whatever with me.  I have a piece of carpet cut out to lay on the floor for camping and attach it with Velcro strips onto the walls at 18" intervals. When done camping I can take down the cots, roll the carpet to the front, drive the 4 wheeler in and tie it down and I'm loaded to go.
  I can't get pics to load but it has been a work in progress and I am pretty happy with it so far.


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