# Your best looking Tru-Oil or other Stock...



## taylornelms (May 28, 2008)

that you refinished.  I am about to do another stock and would like to see what can really be done with the right amount of preperation and time spent.


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## cmshoot (May 28, 2008)

The bottom rifle in this pic is a Remington 788 that I refinished with Tru Oil in 1995.  It's been my main hunting rifle every since and still has that original 1995 Tru Oil finish on it


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## GAnaturalist (May 28, 2008)

Marlin 22


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## CAL (May 28, 2008)

Looks good.If you wish to speed up your process,take a metal trash can and drill a small hole in the lid.A hole big enough for a wire and hang a light bulb in the can.The bulb will give off dry heat and sorta cook your finish hard.Works real good.I use a 100 watt bulb in mine.Good luck with it.


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## bighonkinjeep (May 28, 2008)

If you have any sanding to be done just be very careful where the wood meets metal.Its not hard to remove too much wood and leave a poor fit in these areas. heres a 10/22 I did some time ago both metal and wood.(originally blued) These rifles were neglected wrecks purchased at a gun show.The wood finish is minwax  satin finish polyurathane.


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## taylornelms (May 28, 2008)

Can you stain a stock to make it darker then tru oil it??? If so what would you recomend?


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## 7Mag Hunter (May 28, 2008)

The Hawken in my avitar was a kit I finished about 20 yrs ago...

It was totally white wood when I started....20 or more coats
got the color and shine I wanted....I let each coat dry overnight
and when totally dry, I buffed lightly to smooth the finish with 
0000 steel wool.....
Did not thin with anything...Used it straight from bottle, and
finger rubbed each coat....Apply lightly...
Will charge the camera battery and try to post a close up pic
later, so you can see the shine better...


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## GAnaturalist (May 28, 2008)

taylornelms said:


> Can you stain a stock to make it darker then tru oil it??? If so what would you recomend?



Yes. The last rifle I finished (which I will post on here soon) was a old WWII rifle that originally had the "Winchester Red" look to it. I mixed several stains together to get the red look. Water-based with oil-based, doesn't matter. Just try it on a test piece of wood first. If I am working on a birch rifle, then I have scrap pieces of birch wood that I stain first, same with Walnut. 

Most of the time I get fancy and stain, fill the pores, sand it off, and repeat a couple of times before I leave the stain on, but then again that depends on the wood density, etc. Just experiment. Google around.


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## damascusblade5 (May 31, 2008)

If you stain it be sure the stain is 100% dry before applying the finish,if not the finish will never dry.


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## Tulip (Jun 5, 2008)

Bighonkinjeep thats a nice looking enfield. Is it rebarreled or is the barrel just cut off?


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## stevetarget (Jun 5, 2008)

*heres one*

heres an old Savage 99 that I just finished, new recoil pad and hand rubbed oil finish. This gun had a thick clear factory finish with dents and scratches. Underneath the plastic was a lot of grain that was hidden.


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## Cknerr (Jun 6, 2008)

*Tru-oil*

Works in all kinds of places. You can make it shiny or buff it a little a make it a kinda satin. Depending on what is wanted, the stuff can be easily manipulated. the only exception I have is occasionally using shellac to fill grain. Leveling and finishing of course is done with Tru-oil.
This is a bird's eye maple stock - the stain is magnesium perchlorate , then the wood was scorched.  This finish was buffed out with a compound to remove paint oxide on cars. It is sorta satin believe it or not.





Then to keep things shiny sometimes works too. These have no checkering. Both are for 22lr





It can be used on other things. This is a box I made for a client for his pre-civil war pistol.  the inside and outside was done with Tru-oil. The stuff is also easy to repair
Outside:





inside:






When you use a lot of coats and sand them almost away each time, you develop something like the shingles on your roof. The "layers" allow bumps and dents not to show up. If they do, use steam and very fine sandpaper to remove. Then redo a few layers of Tru-oil, voila - back in business. This is a picture of a cheek piece bounced off of a rock. Dude dropped it out of a tree stand. Please ignore the dust! gotta look a little closer before taking pics lol






Good luck!
Chris


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## Mojo^ (Jun 9, 2008)

Nothing quite like hand rubbed tung oil for bringing out the hidden beauty in an old .30-30 beater.


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## GAnaturalist (Jun 9, 2008)

Mojo^ said:


> Nothing quite like hand rubbed tung oil for bringing out the hidden beauty in an old .30-30 beater.
> 
> Wow, that looks much better. Nice wood.
> 
> Here is a 1943 Swiss K31 I just finished with tru oil and a mixed stain. All matching parts. This one was truly a beater or beaver chew toy until I sanded on it. I also did a quick bedding job, and made some handloads, and it shoots MOA with iron sights. The bayo is an original Elesner Victorinox. You can see the original stamping of a small Swiss cross and shield in the center of the buttstock, I sanded around that. This rifle also had a troop tag ID under the metal buttstock.


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## EMC-GUN (Jun 21, 2008)

Nice work guys!! That bayo for the Swiss K31 is more $ than the Rifle itself right?


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## GAnaturalist (Jun 21, 2008)

EMC-GUN said:


> Nice work guys!! That bayo for the Swiss K31 is more $ than the Rifle itself right?



Thanks, yes and no. That bayo came from my friend who owns Bianco Swiss Knives. He gave me the bayo as a gift. On ebay they will be around 100.00 for that type of bayo, and the rifle runs 200.00. 

However, there are some sawback bayo's that will go for as much as 400.00. I tried to talk my friend into getting me one of those, but he did not go for it, but I tried.


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## leoparddog (Jun 23, 2008)

I'm thinking of using Tru-Oil for an unfinished Boyd's Walnut stock I got in the mail yesterday.  After the sanding, what do you use for filling the pores?  For a walnut stain - I've heard Minwax should not be used.


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## Cknerr (Jun 23, 2008)

*grain filler*

You can use tru-oil to grain fill. Sand back to the wood until the little pores are all filled up. Takes 5 or 6 coats -usually. If you don't want to wait 24 hours between coats, you can use shellac. Works great beleive it or not. They latest versions Red Dot/Bull's Eye - something like that sold at your local hardware store is differant then what we grew up with. They have come up with a preservative that extends the shelf live to more then a year! The alchohol evaporates very quickly, and since curing is not an issue.... build up is very quick.

Minwax stains everything to be the same color. The gel versions can fill pores. Because the staining is so strong, and whatever you finish it with had better be a MinWax product, not everyone likes the stuff. Tru-oil directly over Minwax usually doesn't last very long. There is only a physical bond between the two that can be easily broken.

Best of luck,
Chris


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## pdog06 (Jun 24, 2008)

Heres my custom Savage 308. I used no stain and 7 coats of Tru-Oil. The rubbed on
 some Birchwood-Casey gun wax for a Semi-Gloss finish. 
















The tru-oil alone will really darken-up the color, so make sure if you stain it you 
dont go too far with it. The red in this stock looked almost pink before it was finished.


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