# Lumber for porch railing?



## Matt A (Jun 5, 2011)

I need to rebuild the railing on my front porch so I need some help with lumber selection. It will be painted. I would assume that PT would make sense but the PT boards I've bought in the past from HD/Lowes warp badly when they dry so I'm hesitant to use it. I understand that PT has to dry for 60 days or so before it can be painted. (I'm planning to use aluminum balusters so I'm mainly concerned with the top and bottom boards.) Do any of you carpenters or DIY'ers have any advice? Thanks


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## Twenty five ought six (Jun 5, 2011)

There really is no need to use PT if you are going to paint it.

Look around --plenty of 100 year old houses with painted pine siding on them.

As long as there is no ground contact, or water standing on it, common lumber will do fine.  PT has become sort of a magic talisman for all outdoor projects.


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## Money man (Jun 5, 2011)

Matt A said:


> I need to rebuild the railing on my front porch so I need some help with lumber selection. It will be painted. I would assume that PT would make sense but the PT boards I've bought in the past from HD/Lowes warp badly when they dry so I'm hesitant to use it. I understand that PT has to dry for 60 days or so before it can be painted. (I'm planning to use aluminum balusters so I'm mainly concerned with the top and bottom boards.) Do any of you carpenters or DIY'ers have any advice? Thanks



Matt, how large of an area are you doing and what is your budget? Depending on the job, you might want to consider Ipe since you are going to use aluminum balusters. 

Expensive? Yes! Have to replace it in your lifetime? Nope!

http://www.ipedeckingsource.com/deckrailing.htm


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## jimbo4116 (Jun 5, 2011)

Twenty five ought six said:


> There really is no need to use PT if you are going to paint it.
> 
> Look around --plenty of 100 year old houses with painted pine siding on them.
> 
> As long as there is no ground contact, or water standing on it, common lumber will do fine.  PT has become sort of a magic talisman for all outdoor projects.



That is good info.  If the rails will be painted and not subject to a lot of moisture no need for PT.  Most rot on porch rails occurs at the points where they connect to the posts and mostly on the bottom rail where rain splatters.

That said after replacing the fir fascias on my house one time with fir because of rot. The second time I replaced with 1x PT. Allowed it to dry in the shop a few days and primed then painted.  Been up for 10 years now with no problems haven't even had to repaint yet. Used screws instead of nails.


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## Twenty five ought six (Jun 5, 2011)

If I think about it, I'll take some pictures of some handholds that  were built out of PT (over my objection, but what do I know).

Maybe 10 years ago -- we have never been able to get them to hold paint -- no matter how much putty, wood filler and Bullseye we (I) use.  

Naturally, the one who insisted on using PT doesn't do any of the paint scraping, filling and painting.


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## kikkup (Jun 5, 2011)

If you want the best lumber in our area go to coffer addams in Lawrenceville, I don't buy the junk from home depot or lowes..
And as for the pt... you dont need it if you are going to paint it, Just use a good quality paint....


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## Matt A (Jun 5, 2011)

Thanks all, this is great info! I just assumed that PT was necessary for outdoor use so this is good to know.

Money Man - the Ipe looks great but is too pricey, I have two kids in college so the budget is thin!


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## JustUs4All (Jun 6, 2011)

If painting prime and paint the "hidden" ends before you put it up.  Water in the joints will probably be your biggest problem.


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## shakey gizzard (Jun 6, 2011)

Matt A said:


> I need to rebuild the railing on my front porch so I need some help with lumber selection. It will be painted. I would assume that PT would make sense but the PT boards I've bought in the past from HD/Lowes warp badly when they dry so I'm hesitant to use it. I understand that PT has to dry for 60 days or so before it can be painted. (I'm planning to use aluminum balusters so I'm mainly concerned with the top and bottom boards.) Do any of you carpenters or DIY'ers have any advice? Thanks



Im with Money man! Carpenter bees are gunna have a hayday on that sweet white wood! You alredy have the high dollar aluminum balusters, be done with it!


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## Matt A (Jun 6, 2011)

Shakey - I found the balusters on ebay for under $1 each. If I could find a similar deal on Ipe I'd be all over it!


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## Spotlite (Jun 6, 2011)

I dont know if I would use anything other than PT if I didnt go with the Ipe or something similar. This time of the year, it doesnt take PT 60 days to dry. Nail it or screw it down tight, it will stay in place.


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## shakey gizzard (Jun 6, 2011)

Matt A said:


> Shakey - I found the balusters on ebay for under $1 each. If I could find a similar deal on Ipe I'd be all over it!



Thats a score!


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## jimbo4116 (Jun 7, 2011)

A little tip if you use screws to attach your top rails.

Countersink a little deep, then wad up a small amount of tissue paper and press on top of the screw then caulk.

Then if you ever have to remove you can dig out the paper and no caulk in the screwhead.


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## Matt A (Jun 7, 2011)

Excellent tip Jimbo! Thanks


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