# She needs to shed a pound or two



## leoparddog (Jun 1, 2015)

I've decided that my 338-06 Mauser needs to go on a diet and she needs someone to help get that weight off of her.  I've thought about rebarreling to something lighter but I don't want a smaller caliber.  This was meant to be my "heavy" gun and it turned out to be just that.  I already have .308's and a .280Rem to cover the middle weight category.

Looking for a gunsmith to flute the barrel, even if I lose the barrel band sling point; thin down the trigger guard, maybe drill out the bolt knob; plus whatever else could be done.  If I could get 1 pound off of it I'd be happy but 1.0+ would be even better.  I love the blued steel it has now but will be fine with a coating.  

It's always been a great shooter, but it's just too heavy for the deer woods and if I won't carry it to the deer stand, there is no way I'm carrying it up a mountain.

I don't mind shipping it off, but want someone who can do quality work and maintain the accuracy.


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## NE GA Pappy (Jun 1, 2015)

a pound is a lot of weight to shed.  I don't believe you can flute the barrel enough to even get close to that.  Synthetic stock would probably save you the most weight.


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## cmshoot (Jun 1, 2015)

Not recommended to flute a finished barrel. 

Does look like a heavier than "standard" barrel contour. 

1.  Cheapest/easiest weight reduction is to drop it in a synthetic stock. Look at options from Bell & Carlson, McMillan and Manners. 

2.  You could rebarrel with a lighter contour barrel. 

3.  Go to the gym and work out until the rifle doesn't seem as heavy as it did. That's my favorite reccomendation........lotsa benefits with no downsides.


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## leoparddog (Jun 1, 2015)

I know the finish would be ruined but is there another reason?  

I have a B&C Medalist stock for it with the aluminum bedding block but it still weighs a lot with that stock.  

As far as the gym goes, I used to go and lift twice a week until I got arthritis in my left hand and had some elbow injuries that make lifting down right painful.  I'm just getting old and can't dodge that too many more years.  I built this gun thinking I'd take it elk hunting but I think that may be sunsetting on me too.

If I can't shave a pound off of it the way it is, I may have to find it a new owner since my 280 will take care of most of what I want to shoot.


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## cmshoot (Jun 1, 2015)

Fluting a barrel can introduce stresses that can cause serious accuracy issues. This is why fluting is done before a barrel is rifled. 

The Medalist is a bulky, heavy stock, designed for competitive use. Get a lightweight stock from one of the 3 companies I mentioned, with no aluminum bedding block, and have it glass-bedded. 

Several companies, like Manners, have stocks made of carbon fiber. B&C has their Carbelite stocks.


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## cmshoot (Jun 1, 2015)

Depending on what bullet weight you're shooting, .338-06 can give ya a bit of a thump. Loss of a pound will make a difference in felt recoil. 

My .338-06AI packs a bit of punch when I'm running 225grn Accubonds , but certainly manageable in a rifle with the heft that mine has. Commercial Mauser action by CZ, mid-weight barrel, steel bottom metal and bedded wood stock.

You should sell that thing......I could always use another!  LOL


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## godogs57 (Jun 2, 2015)

No way I'd flute that barrel after its already been stress relived at the factory. Plus, the barrel already has a chunk of metal gone due to the fact it has a .338 diameter hole in the bore as opposed to a 7mm or 30 cal hole. Simplest solution to a rifle that's a pound too heavy to carry up the hill is to lose a pound yourself...or five...think on it. That little gem of wisdom was told to me by a renowned accuracy gunsmith years ago and it makes perfect sense. How old are you anyway? I'm turning 58 this fall and will be humping the hills as I do every year. My wife and I hit the gym three and four times a week year round and yep, as you get older, pain can sometime be a daily thing we deal with. My #1 elk rifle weighs ten lbs unloaded (300 RUM). Just do it, as they say...


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## wareagle700 (Jun 3, 2015)

What if you shed a pound or two? Less weight to haul up that mountain.


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## leoparddog (Jun 3, 2015)

wareagle700 said:


> What if you shed a pound or two? Less weight to haul up that mountain.



Gee, I didn't know my mom was a member here.


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## 7Mag Hunter (Jun 3, 2015)

cmshoot said:


> Not recommended to flute a finished barrel.
> 
> Does look like a heavier than "standard" barrel contour.
> 
> ...





X-2...If it ain't broke, don't try to fix
it.....
I put a synthetic stock on my wood
stock Remington, and it made a 
HUGE difference....


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## TJay (Jun 4, 2015)

You didn't mention how long the barrel is (or I missed it).  Maybe you could shorten the barrel to lose a few ounces?  That plus a good synthetic stock could get you close to a pound.


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## leoparddog (Jun 4, 2015)

It's a 24" barrel.  I may just see about a lighter weight stock which might be the best bang for the buck.


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## dawg2 (Jun 4, 2015)

leoparddog said:


> It's a 24" barrel.  I may just see about a lighter weight stock which might be the best bang for the buck.



I'd drop it in a synthetic stock, but no way would I flute the barrel fro the reasons previously mentioned.


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## Sharps40 (Jun 5, 2015)

Synthetic stock.
20 to 22" Barrel (you won't see any noticeable change trajectory or power inside of 300 yards, neither will the deer or elk or moose or bears, etc.)
Alloy magazine floor plate
Alloy magazine cartridge guide
Drill/mill metal from magazine side walls forward of case head, rearward of case shoulder
Divot/ball mill bolt between front and rear locking lugs
Hollow out bolt handle
Remove steel trigger guard bow and replace with alloy
Alloy scope mounts and rings
Smaller scope
Selective removal of metal from the non critical rear bridge like clip guide, etc.


Or......


New fancy custom rifle on a modern action that is lighter to begin with.


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## model88_308 (Jun 5, 2015)

Your M98 338/06 looks like a well done rifle. I no longer own a 338/06 after deciding to stay with the .35 Whelen instead, but it is certainly a fine cartridge, without a doubt. Since it appears to have originally been good quality work done on the rifle, I'd hesitate chopping it up, myself. By the time you get a new barrel, stock and other "pieces/parts" you'll have spent enough additional $$ to have bought something else.

I'd suggest you look at a couple of very similar cartridges; the .338 Fed and the .338 RCM. I own and hunt with both and really like them. Both being SAs you'll save some weight right there. Buy either with a factory synthetic stock and they will weigh about 6 3/4 & 7 1/4lbs respectively (20" on the RCM and 22" on the Fed version)

Both mine were SS/Syn versions, but I now have the .338F housed in a walnut stock. Both also will shoot MOA as they were purchased. Of course, you'll not match .338/06 performance with the .338F, but the RCM will better the 338/06 with factory loads and easily match what the 338/06 will do with handloads. I'm not sure exactly where/how you hunt, but I'd be happy topping either with a VX3 1.5-5x20 to save even a bit more weight. The 338 RCM with 20" barrel is a very handy rifle, very comfortable to carry and use in a stand.

If the M98 338/06 has sentimental value, keep it and use it accordingly. If it does not hold any sentimental value, sell it to finance the new toy.


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## deadend (Jun 5, 2015)

I'd send it to Feldkamp and get it spiral fluted.  I'd get him to chop the tube to 22", flute and skeletonize the bolt, and slab the action wherever he can.  Drop it into an MPI or Edge handle. switch to Talley LW, and it may be close to a pound.  Karl flutes a pile of barrels and doesn't have accuracy issues.  

I've had him do a couple and accuracy never changed.  One was a Pacnor and the other a Lilja.

Rick Steinour at Xtreme Rifle Works would be another 'smith that can shave some serious weight off.  He did a Ruger for me that lost well over a pound.


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## leoparddog (Jun 5, 2015)

Thanks everyone,  while it is a bit heavy the gunsmith did a wonderful job on it, the bluing is beautiful and it shoots tight groups too.  I'll work around the edges with a new smaller scope and lighter weight synth. stock before I start removing metal.


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## Sharps40 (Jun 5, 2015)

Yeah, the mauser is a hunka metal and it don't help that aftermarket barrels are conservatively thick even at the muzzle.

If you want a mountain rifle ye'll have to start with a better/lighter action and build from there or buy one of the several super lites that are provided by big name big dollar long as heck wait gunsmiths.


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## tom ga hunter (Jun 24, 2015)

The top rifle is a 7x57 custom built on a FN/SAKO action with SAKO steel bottom metal, a std Brown Precision stock, #3 22" Douglas barrel w/o a scope & rings it weighs 7 pounds flat.

You could probably save 1/2 pound by using alloy bottom metal rather than Mauser steel cost $50.00,  Fluting 2-4 oz  cost $150  I would not recommend, A Brown Precision pounder will save you 1/2-1 pound cost $500-600.  Saving a pound cost a lot.

I'd tear your rifle down & put your components on a postal scale.


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