# A First-timer's String and Cable Swap Thread



## Brewskis (May 12, 2015)

Well it's middle of May now, and I don't know about y'all, but I'm chomping at the bit to get back at it. If my guess is right, we're down to exactly four months until opening day.

The successful DIY setup and tune of my CS34 earlier this year inspired me to give something else a shot...changing my string and cables. Didn't see a topic about this in the DIY forum, so here goes one.

From what I've heard, the factory string and cables that came on both of my Hoyts are top-notch. Nevertheless, the ones on my Faktor 34 have a full season of shooting and hunting on them. Plus, I've been kinda interested in trying out some different colors. And like I said, what's a guy to do in the off-season to keep the archery-tinkering-bug at bay when sitting at home. A great sale run by a highly-recommended string maker on AT finally pushed me over the edge, and led me to picking up new sets for my Faktor 34 and CS34.

While I'm waiting (~3 weeks) on them to arrive, I thought I'd see what info I can gather here regarding swapping them out. I've got a vague idea of what to do, and will likely have some questions. But what say y'all? Is this a fairly simple procedure? Any tips or suggestions right off the bat are appreciated!


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## Kris87 (May 12, 2015)

I buy bows in the offseason just to have stuff to work on and tune.  I'm already way ahead of you bro.  

Here's my CST ZT I just setup with new strings from JBK.  We can walk you through it here just like we did on the tuning part.


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## Kris87 (May 12, 2015)

First things first...take pics of your cable routing on the cams so you can reference them for your first time.  Make note of which cable goes through which roller on the cable guard, and which cable is on top of the other.  Take measurements of your current specs, ATA, BH, peep to center of nock point, speed nocks from edge of cams, take pics of the prelean the cams have if you want.  You're going to have to retune from scratch, but it'll help if you at least have an idea.  

Once you get everything installed, I'll go through my steps on what to do, and when to do.  Its important not to do some steps before others, like tie on your loop right away to try and set nock height.  There's reasons to wait.  But get 'em on and get going. Good luck.


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## Brewskis (May 12, 2015)

That's a sweet-looking bow, man. I like the harvest brown with the camo limbs and that string/serving color combo. 

I actually ordered my strings from JBK also. I've heard nothing but good about them, and the $50 sale that ran through last week was too good to pass up. Plus, I'm not aware of anyone else who offers a 2 year warranty on their strings and cables.


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## Brewskis (May 12, 2015)

BTW, I was originally thinking red and brown for my CS34, but after talking with Jeff, I went with a solid tan string material and green serving for it and solid red string with black serving for my black bow. 

Slightly nervous about the solid tan with green serving since I've never seen such a combo, but we thought it'd be a nice match with the camo. We'll see.. ~15 business days, and counting...


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## Kris87 (May 12, 2015)

It will look good on camo.  Hoyt uses tan in their factory strings, plus the green won't be too bright either.  It'll match up nicely.


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## Brewskis (May 20, 2015)

Well, I'm supposedly two weeks away from receiving my strings. Lately, I've thought of a few questions I've have, but didn't write them down. I'm just going to post them here as I think of them so I don't forget. Plus, they'll also here for anybody's future reference.

First off, I've heard talk about custom strings voiding the manufacturer's warranty. However, it seems most people change the string and cables on their bow at some point in time. Has anyone actually ever encountered a manufacturer refusing to honor the warranty due to using custom strings instead of those installed/recommended by the manufacturer?


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## Mavren (May 20, 2015)

Brewskis, mind if I ask what strings you purchased?  I'm definitely interested in following you along on this thread as the tuning one you did not long ago was extremely helpful.  I have a Bowtech Insanity that I've been considering changing the strings on myself but have never done any sort of bow tuning before.  Curious to see as I follow you along if the process would be similar for a different brand.  Also, did you have to measure the string lengths when you ordered them or did you just provide the make and model of bow?  Thanks!


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## Brewskis (May 20, 2015)

Glad to hear the tuning thread was helpful. These are the kinds of threads I was searching for but couldn't find as I started to DIY.  Like you, I also had never experimented with bow tuning before, but thanks to this forum, my bows are shooting great and there have been no trips to the ER. Hopefully by documenting the help I've been getting from our local experts here, it will help others.  Feel free to post your questions, comments, experiences, etc. along the way in this thread or the tuning thread, and make them even more robust and useful for all of us.

I ordered the strings from JBK Bowstrings. When I was shopping around, I found that Jeff and his strings received a lot of good feedback online, including on Archery Talk, so I decided to give them a try. Plus, he had a sale going on at the time.

Not sure about Bowtechs, but Hoyts have a sticker on the lower limb that gives the lengths of the string and both cables. I simply gave this info JBK Bowstrings when I placed my order.


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## Brewskis (May 20, 2015)

Mavren's question actually reminded me of another one I had. 

If your bow doesn't have such a label on it showing the string and cable lengths, how would you find that out? I guess you'd have to somehow measure them yourself or contact the manufacturer? I imagine it'd be tricky measuring them yourself given the precise lengths (in the case of my bow, three decimal places).


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## Mavren (May 21, 2015)

Ah, never thought to check the limbs for the specs.  Very helpful.  I'm curious about the above question as well.


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## Kris87 (May 21, 2015)

Hoyt string specs are easy to find as you can download any of their bows off their website through the tune charts section.  All cables and strings are listed there.  I download all of them of them for whatever bows I have onto my phone.

If you don't know the specs.  Then the proper way to measure strings and cables is under 100# of tension.  Not easy to do unless you have proper equipment.  Also, old strings are stretched so you wouldn't want to measure those.  If you can't find the specs on the bow, or a chart, then I'd just call the manufacturer.  They will know.


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## Brewskis (May 22, 2015)

Totally forgot about the tune charts available online. I even posted the one I downloaded for my CS34 in the tuning thread. 






Mavren, I found this string and cable chart for Bowtech's from 2000 to 2015 on their website.


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## Mavren (May 25, 2015)

Thanks!  I was able to find the string specs on the limbs as well but I'll be sure to keep this spec sheet handy.


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## Mavren (May 30, 2015)

Have another newbie question on the strings.  When ordering on JBK's website I notice that they ask for string, buss, and control cable lengths.  However, on the limb of the bow and on the spec sheet from bowtech they only list a one cable and one string size.  No buss or control specific size.  Is the buss and control cables the same size then?


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## Brewskis (May 30, 2015)

Good question. Hopefully someone more knowledgable will come along and give a better answer, but as far as I know Bowtechs use a binary cam system where both cams are connected together by a single cable and single string.

Not sure how you'd go about ordering. Perhaps, leave one of the cable fields blank. The make and model of the bow should explain that. If it were me, I'd give them a call and confirm how the order form should be filled out.


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## pasinthrough (May 31, 2015)

Mavren said:


> Have another newbie question on the strings.  When ordering on JBK's website I notice that they ask for string, buss, and control cable lengths.  However, on the limb of the bow and on the spec sheet from bowtech they only list a one cable and one string size.  No buss or control specific size.  Is the buss and control cables the same size then?




When you tell them the make and model of your bow, they'll figure it out.  Most bowtechs take one string and two cables that are the same length.  The main difference would be if it's an overdrive system or 3 track.  Overdrive have a split cable and the 3 tracks are just solid served loop ends.


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## Mavren (Jun 1, 2015)

I called them and they were able to take the order over the phone.  They had the specs on file so it was easy.  JBK's on the way!


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## Brewskis (Jun 1, 2015)

Nice! What color(s) string and serving did you go with?

Actually Jeff emailed me earlier today to let me know my two sets were on the way. I should have them this week.


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## Mavren (Jun 1, 2015)

The bow is black with red accents so I went with just a straight red string and red serving.  The cables that came on the bow were a black and red combo with black serving so I didn't want to go with the same color combination.  In addition, the octane accessories and QAD rest I have are red and black so I didn't want to stray away from the theme too much lol.  I'm looking at 4 weeks or so for delivery so I'll be a little bit behind ya but i'll be following you along the way!


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## Brewskis (Jun 3, 2015)

That should look good. I almost went with red on red for my black bow, but ended up deciding to try red with black serving. It'll be cool to see both options.


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## Brewskis (Jun 3, 2015)

Kris87 said:


> First things first...take pics of your cable routing on the cams so you can reference them for your first time.  Make note of which cable goes through which roller on the cable guard, and which cable is on top of the other.  Take measurements of your current specs, ATA, BH, peep to center of nock point, speed nocks from edge of cams, take pics of the prelean the cams have if you want.  You're going to have to retune from scratch, but it'll help if you at least have an idea.
> 
> Once you get everything installed, I'll go through my steps on what to do, and when to do.  Its important not to do some steps before others, like tie on your loop right away to try and set nock height.  There's reasons to wait.  But get 'em on and get going. Good luck.



New strings should be here today. I should have already gotten this preliminary stuff out of the way, but I'll have to knock it out today.

In the meantime, I've thought of a few other questions before I get started:


I'm using a Bowmaster bow press. I'm guessing it's best to remove and replace one string/cable at a time?
If so, should this be done in any particular order?
I'm going to keep the factory strings as backups in a pinch. Is there a way to store the old string and cables so that they don't untwist from their current lengths after I take them off?


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## Kris87 (Jun 3, 2015)

For your first time, I'd definitely do the cables one at a time.  Just know that you will probably have to give the press some more turns to get on a new set...you'll probably think they're short but they won't be.  Doesn't matter which order you do them in either.  

As for the old strings, just use the paper clips that are gonna come holding your new set to make sure they stay the same length.  Since the old set is pretty well broken in, when you take them off, they're not gonna want to just untwist.  They'll hold in place pretty well on their own.  

Word of caution.  Since the new strings won't have any bends formed, they'll naturally want to come off the posts and string tracks pretty easy until you unpress the bow.  You will probably want to hold the cams somewhat with your hands to make sure they have some tension on them while you're fiddling with them.  You'll know what I mean when you start.  But.....before you unpress it fully, take the string and pull up on it to make sure it has some tension, while you untwist the bowmaster.  Just keep an eye on all of the string and cable ends to make sure they're on good before you release everything.


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## Kris87 (Jun 3, 2015)

Oh one more thing.  Hoyts are notorious for having sharp edges on the posts(same for the yoke bushings) where the end loops go.  You can't really see the edges, but it is possible to cut the servings when you put them on.  Don't try and force them over the edge is basically what I'm getting at.  Just press it a little more to give yourself some room to fit them on.


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## Brewskis (Jun 4, 2015)

Thanks, Kris. That's some good info to have before getting started.

Apparently Priority Mail 2-Day takes more than 2 days. As of this morning, USPS tracking still says the expected delivery day is Wednesday, June 3, 2015, and that it's somewhere in Atlanta. Maybe today..

I did encounter one question while taking measurements last night. When measuring from the speed nocks to the edge of the cam, I wasn't really sure where to measure at the cam. I noticed in the photo below that I should really measure from the weight under the shrink wrap (B) vs from the end of the shrink wrap (A) since the amount of shrink wrap varies from speed nock to speed nock. However, where do you measure to on the cam? Where it first makes contact with the cam on the inside edge (C) or completely disappears into the cam track on the outside edge (D)? Also, from which speed nock should I measure (I assumed the farthest one from the cam)?


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## Brewskis (Jun 4, 2015)

Reading my last post, it probably sounds like I'm splitting hairs, and maybe I am, but I've heard that the placement of the speed nocks with the Z5 cams is pretty crucial to the bow tuning properly. I figure it's better to ask now rather than later.


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## Huntinfool (Jun 4, 2015)

Glad this thread is here.  I'll be changing out my first set of strings and cables this weekend on a '10 Z28 using a bowmaster press.


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## Kris87 (Jun 4, 2015)

Brewskis said:


> Reading my last post, it probably sounds like I'm splitting hairs, and maybe I am, but I've heard that the placement of the speed nocks with the Z5 cams is pretty crucial to the bow tuning properly. I figure it's better to ask now rather than later.



All you want to do is make sure they're in the same spot.  I take a pencil and make a mark on the cam, doesn't matter where, just somewhere you can measure from. Then measure to the middle of each of the nocks.  Don't bother with measuring between the two nocks.  All you care about is getting them back the same distance from the cam.  

Measure it in mm too.  I hate SAE crap.  Wish we'd switch everything over to metric someday.


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## Brewskis (Jun 4, 2015)

Huntinfool, looking forward to hearing about your upcoming string and cable swap. 

Another good tip, man. A line drawn on the cam will definitely make it easier to measure.

Strings arrived today, but had to get yard work taken care of after all the rain we've had lately. Hopefully getting started tomorrow.


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## Mavren (Jun 5, 2015)

Those strings are going to look good!


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## Huntinfool (Jun 5, 2015)

Mine actually came yesterday and I spent part of last night and this morning getting them installed, getting leeches in and tying on a d loop.  Got the ultra rest attached to the down cable and I think I'm pretty well ready to let a few arrows fly before I install the peep.  

So far everything has gone super smooth.  I ended up putting a half twist in one of the cables to get the cams synced up pretty well.  

Don't have a drawboard built (that'll be done either this afternoon or tomorrow).  But the string cable swap seems to have gone pretty well so far.  Brace height measures to specs and so does the ATA.  I took measurements for the loop and peep before I took the old stuff off so that I would have a good starting point for the new string.

On thing that helped a ton was taking detailed pictures of everything before I pressed the bow.  Then I just took one hook off at a time and replaced with the new one and ran the new string or cable down to where the other end was still attached so that I was sure to route everything correctly.

I'll take a few pics and post them up later. 

The bow I'm swapping will end up being my backup this year because, for the first time in my life, I own two bows.  Have a new Synergy coming in a few weeks.

So I had a little less pressure to get it perfect (even though that is the goal for sure).

I used 60X strings in case anybody is interested in the maker.


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## Huntinfool (Jun 6, 2015)

So I have a Q. 

I built the draw board this morning and actually also picked up the new Synergy this morning too. 

Because I did not have the draw board or a bow scale before changing the string and cables, I did not check the poundage on the Z28. It's an 09 model with 70# limbs. 

The cams are synced and they are timed well. But when I draw it on the draw board with the bow scale attached, it's maxing out at 59# and I checked to make sure the limb bolts are tightened all the way down. 

Why would it be maxing out 11# low???

I know I have the right length on the strings and cables and i didn't let any twists out that I'm aware of when I installed them. 

Do I need to repress the bow and twist everything tighter till I get to 70# when the bolts are maxed?

I'm pretty sure the scale is right because I just put the Synergy on it and it maxed at 58#. It's got 60# limbs and I backed them off a full turn.


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## Huntinfool (Jun 7, 2015)

I should add that I just checked measurements and the ATA is long by about 3/4 of an inch.  It's supposed to be 32 1/4 according to the specs and it's sitting right at 33.  Weird thing is that the brace height seems to be smack on the specs.


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## Brewskis (Jun 7, 2015)

Huntinfool, that's a good question. 11 pounds is pretty big difference. Especially if the strings and cables are the correct length. Wish I knew what could be causing that. Hopefully, someone who has an idea will chime in.


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## Huntinfool (Jun 7, 2015)

From what I gather, ATA isn't an exact science and varies from draw length to draw length.  I'm at a loss and the inter-webs don't seem to be any help.  

I'm going to post the same Q on AT and see if there's any insight there.


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## Brewskis (Jun 7, 2015)

I'm finally getting started. First, I took pics of my cable routing. I took pics of both sides of the bow overall, as well as close-ups of the cams. I figured it's better to have too many than too little.

LH side overall:





LH side, bottom cam:





LH side, rollerguard:





LH side, top cam:





RH side overall:





RH side, bottom cam:





RH side, rollerguard:





RH side, top cam:





Made a note of control cable (cable w/o the yoke at the top) going through front of front roller and buss cable going through front of rear roller. Also, noted that if the bow is laying on the side where the sight and quiver mount onto the bow, the control cable runs underneath the buss cable.


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## Brewskis (Jun 7, 2015)

I then took measurements of the following: 


axle-to-axle - 34.25"




brace height - 6.25"




peep to center of nock point - 6"




speed nocks to line drawn on cams - Bottom: 2-1/4" and 4" 




Top: 2-9/16" and 4-1/4"





cam prelean - arrow (held against top cam) intersecting string near D-loop

BTW, I would have measured in metric units if I had such a ruler. I agree that it's a much cleaner system, and would make a lot of things easier both here as well as when traveling.


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## Brewskis (Jun 7, 2015)

I began by removing the string first, and then installing the new one. After the string was installed, I removed the yoked buss cable, and installed the new one. Finally, I removed the control cable, and installed the new one.











Honestly, I'm not sure if I removed/added a half twist or two while straightening out the string and each of the cables as I removed each one from the package and off of the paper clip, and then positioned them onto the cams.

However, everything seemed to be in place properly after slowly releasing the press. Also looks like I successfully installed them without damaging the serving near the various posts.





















Hopefully, everything look right. If not, please let me know.


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## Brewskis (Jun 7, 2015)

I decided to go ahead, and remeasure my specs. They are as follows after the swap:


axle-to-axle - (BTW, didn't think to measure axle-to-axle on both sides before starting, but did after the swap)
leftside yoke: 34-1/4" 
rightside yoke: 34-3/8" 
brace height - 6-3/4" (same)
peep to center of nock point - N/A
speed nocks to line drawn on cams - 
Bottom: 2-3/16" (1/16" less) and 3-13/16" (3/16" less) 
Top: 2-9/16" (same) and 4-1/8" (1/8" less)
cam prelean - arrow (held against top cam) intersecting string just below lower speed nock - way more prelean now!


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## Brewskis (Jun 7, 2015)

So a few more questions while I'm thinking of them:


I decided to check my draw weight (first time drawing the bow back). The scale read 53-1/2 lbs. each time (1-1/2 lbs. less than the 55 lbs. I had it set at before). Is it normal for DW to be less after a string swap? Also, should I have bottomed out the limbs before the swap? It didn't occur to me to ask this until Huntinfool posted about his DW being way less after his string swap. I was going to go ahead and bottom out my limbs and see what the max DW is with my new strings and cables, but figured I'd ask first.
I noticed that four weights were used with these speed nocks vs. the three weights used for the factory Hoyt speed nocks. Would this account for the minor differences in measurements between the speed nocks and the cams? Will those minor differences affect the tune?
I assume that each side of the yoke has equal twists from the string builder? Obviously, one side (right side, if I recall correctly) should have more twists. If so, I'm guessing that by adding twists to it, that will bring the axle-to-axle on each side to an equal and correct length?
Sorry for the abundance of questions throughout the last few posts. Looks like I've reached a stopping point, so I'll stand by for now.


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## Kris87 (Jun 8, 2015)

The poundage is almost always a little lower when you install new strings.  1.5# is pretty dang good for a starting point.  Max the limb bolts down, and check max poundage.  Then check the DL and you'll know if the bow is pretty well in spec.  I don't worry about ATA, BH, and the other measurements nearly as much as the DW and the DL.  Those are the two most important variables.  Get those right, and let the other specs fall where they may.

The Hoyt speed nock is a solid brass sleeve, its not actually individual nocks.  It weighs exactly 20gr, and 4 small brass nocks weigh exactly the same.  You can use 3 large brass nocks as well, as they weight 21gr total.  I use 4 of the small ones.  You're good to go. 

I don't measure the twists in the yokes from the builder.  I just let the tune dictate how many they end up with.  The only thing I left out for you is that when I get a new set, I do twist the yokes in opposite directions of each other.  For instance, if looking down at the top of the yokes, I always twist the right one clockwise, and the left one counterclockwise.  This helps keeping the legs from twisting up on each other down there the Y where they're served together, and it also is a great reminder for me to twist a certain direction when I'm making prelean adjustments.  That way I don't have to wonder which way is twisting and which way is untwisting.  This is just a good habit for me.  Also, the left side ATA will almost always be a little shorter than the right side for a right handed bow.  The prelean is accounting for that.  Thus the right side will almost always have a few more twists than the left.


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## Mavren (Jun 8, 2015)

I have a question here as well.  Is there any significance in measuring from one cam or the other in regards to cam pre lean?  I assume that for this project we're measuring from the top cam because the yokes are located at the top.  Just trying to translate this to my Bowtech which has yokes at the top and bottom cams.  Thanks!


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## Kris87 (Jun 8, 2015)

Mavren said:


> I have a question here as well.  Is there any significance in measuring from one cam or the other in regards to cam pre lean?  I assume that for this project we're measuring from the top cam because the yokes are located at the top.  Just trying to translate this to my Bowtech which has yokes at the top and bottom cams.  Thanks!



Without going into how cam systems work, you would need to make sure your lean is the same on both the top and bottom cams.  I'm assuming whatever Bowtech you have has overdrive binary cams on it.  That cam system is the most tuneable of all cam systems out there because you can manipulate the string path with both cams.


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## Mavren (Jun 8, 2015)

Thanks Kris and yeah, it's the Insanity CPX with Binary Cams.  It's a left handed bow as well.  Should it have a set lean one way or the other or does it matter?  The problem I am running into is that the bow was never set up properly from the bow shop I bought it from so measuring my prelean before I do what Brewskis is doing probably won't help me much.  Any suggestions on a starting point once I start the string swap?


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## Kris87 (Jun 8, 2015)

If it were me, I'd start with just enough lean so that the arrow touches the string about 4 inches from the edge of the cam while the arrow is lying flush against the cam.  This won't be a whole lot of prelean.  Then dial it in from there during the tune.


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## Brewskis (Jun 9, 2015)

Kris87 said:


> The poundage is almost always a little lower when you install new strings.  1.5# is pretty dang good for a starting point.  Max the limb bolts down, and check max poundage.  Then check the DL and you'll know if the bow is pretty well in spec.  I don't worry about ATA, BH, and the other measurements nearly as much as the DW and the DL.  Those are the two most important variables.  Get those right, and let the other specs fall where they may.



I'll be sure to max out the limbs bolts this evening, and check the max poundage. However, is there a way to check the current DL with having a D-loop tied on yet?



> The Hoyt speed nock is a solid brass sleeve, its not actually individual nocks.  It weighs exactly 20gr, and 4 small brass nocks weigh exactly the same.  You can use 3 large brass nocks as well, as they weight 21gr total.  I use 4 of the small ones.  You're good to go.



Thanks for the explanation about the size difference of the new speed nocks. Make sense. However, are you saying the slight measurement differences I recorded between the new speed nocks and the cams and the previous factory speed nocks and the cams is close enough to proceed?



> I don't measure the twists in the yokes from the builder.  I just let the tune dictate how many they end up with.  The only thing I left out for you is that when I get a new set, I do twist the yokes in opposite directions of each other.  For instance, if looking down at the top of the yokes, I always twist the right one clockwise, and the left one counterclockwise.  This helps keeping the legs from twisting up on each other down there the Y where they're served together, and it also is a great reminder for me to twist a certain direction when I'm making prelean adjustments.  That way I don't have to wonder which way is twisting and which way is untwisting.  This is just a good habit for me.  Also, the left side ATA will almost always be a little shorter than the right side for a right handed bow.  The prelean is accounting for that.  Thus the right side will almost always have a few more twists than the left.



If I were to do what you're saying about reversing the direction in which the left yoke leg is twisted, would I just count how many twists are currently in that yoke leg (while untwisting it), and put that many into it in the opposite direction? Also, should I add some more twists to the right side in order to get the prelean to a better starting point (i.e. to where the arrow intersects the string closer to the nocking point?)


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## Kris87 (Jun 9, 2015)

You're good to go on the speed nocks.  Don't worry about them.

I wouldn't undo the left yoke leg at this point.  It will work just the same, I just noted what I do for reference next time.  But if you do want to do it, don't worry about counting twists, you're just going to need to twist it enough to get the prelean where you want it.  And yes, I try to get the lean close to where I think it will tune since that affects the buss cable overall length, which in turn affects the cam sync.

Its not possible to measure the DL without having a d loop on the bow.  Definitely don't put it in the draw board.  As I mentioned before, I don't want to tie my d-loop on until my cam sync is right.  When you start adjusting the buss or control cable, it will move your d-loop up or down depending on what you do.  So.....I mock up an arrow level with the string, say 90 deg and mark that spot on the string with a silver sharpie marker.  That is a rough starting point for the d-loop.  Then rather than using the draw board to check the sync, here's where I still use a hook above my door jam and just pull down using the bare string where I marked it with the sharpie.  You do have to be real careful doing this since it could slide on you, but I've never had a problem.  You can check the sync this way, then tie on the loop and fine tune from there.  

Make sense?


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## Brewskis (Jun 9, 2015)

Make sense, thanks. 

So I'll bottom out the limb bolts, and then confirm the max poundage is 60 lbs. If so, I should proceed to returning the DW to my desired DW of 55 lbs. at this point? Then proceed by roughly estimating the nocking point, and then checking the cam sync by pulling down the bow from my ceiling hook?

I suppose we can cross this bridge later if need be, but if my max DW doesn't turn out to be 60 lbs., should I not proceed?


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## Brewskis (Jun 9, 2015)

Huntinfool said:


> So I have a Q.
> 
> I built the draw board this morning and actually also picked up the new Synergy this morning too.
> 
> ...





Huntinfool said:


> From what I gather, ATA isn't an exact science and varies from draw length to draw length.  I'm at a loss and the inter-webs don't seem to be any help.
> 
> I'm going to post the same Q on AT and see if there's any insight there.



Hey Huntinfool, curious to find out if you were able to figure out why your max DW was 11 lbs. less than what it should have been?

The best amateur guess I could think up is that the limbs are showing their age. Not even sure if 6 years is a reasonable time frame for limbs to fatigue to that extent. Did you verify your DW before starting the swap?


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## Huntinfool (Jun 9, 2015)

I did not verify the DW before....rookie mistake.  So that's a disadvantage.  

But, from what I gather from several Elite tuning guides, it very likely is a cable issue.  I need to pull the cables off and check their length under 100# of pressure.  If they are long (hoping they are), then I just need to twist them until they get to the right length and re-install.  Hopefully that will fix the issue.

I did wonder if the limbs had "worn out" or something like that.  But I can't imagine that's it.  I'm not putting 1000 a week through this bow.

I really think it's the cables.  Because my DL is long in addition to being low on poundage.  So, it would make since that if I twist the cables equally to bring the DW up it will also shorten the DL.

Hoping to be able to try the theory out tonight if I can get time.


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## Brewskis (Jun 9, 2015)

OK, I bottomed out my limb bolts, and checked my max poundage. Using an analog scale, I read the max DW at between 58.5 and 59 lbs. (50-60 lb. limbs). I then backed the limb bolts out 1.5 turns until my DW was 55 lbs. again. 

I then made sure my string was plumb, nocked an arrow, and made it sure it was level (90* to the string). After drawing a mark, I pulled it down from the ceiling hook, and was very surprised to see the bottom draw stop hit first, and then see that the top draw stop was still ~1" away from the cable... Figured I should ask where I go from here before I start messing with the prelean?


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## Kris87 (Jun 9, 2015)

Almost every set of strings I install on a Hoyt, the top cam is behind the bottom cam at full draw.  Since your DW was a tad low, just add about 4 twists to the buss cable and recheck it.  This will do two things.  It will slow down the bottom cam and also make the DW go up.  If 4-6 twists of the buss doesn't get the sync in spec, then start taking twists OUT of the control cable.  Do it at the top cam, its much easier.  

Just make sure the prelean in the cam is acceptable at this point.


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## Brewskis (Jun 9, 2015)

Prelean was definitely not acceptable. I just added 5 full twists to the right yoke leg in order to get the arrow held against the top cam to intersect the string where the preliminary nocking point mark is drawn.

So just to confirm.. When you say add twists to the top of the buss cable, do you mean at 4 full twists to each yoke leg? Or should I add the 4-6 twists to the buss cable at the bottom cam?


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## Brewskis (Jun 9, 2015)

I ask because I already added an additional 4 full twists to each yoke leg (on top of the 5 full twists to the right yoke leg in order to get the prelean set).

The bottom cam is still ahead by about .5" now, and DW increased 1-1.5 lbs.


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## Kris87 (Jun 9, 2015)

You misunderstood.  Take twists out of the control cable at the top.  Buss at the bottom cam.


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## Brewskis (Jun 9, 2015)

Man, I knew I should have confirmed before going ahead. Oh well, I don't think I've messed anything up too bad.

I took those 4 additional twists back out of each yoke leg. After that, I added the four twists to the bottom of the buss cable plus another one, for a total of five full twists added. 

Top cam was still behind the bottom, so I removed three full twists from the top of the control cable. That got me pretty close.

In the end, I added another half twist to each of the yoke legs (since I remembered to never add/remove half twists from the control cable due to bend in serving), and now both the top and bottom draw stops are synced and hitting together.

One question/observation... I recall learning that the buss cable is under much more tension than the control cable. Does this mean that the buss cable is/should be twisted more than the control cable? I ask bc that looks to be the case right now on my CS34. However, on my Faktor 34, the control cable looks to be twisted more than the buss..


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## Huntinfool (Jun 10, 2015)

Huntinfool said:


> I did not verify the DW before....rookie mistake.  So that's a disadvantage.
> 
> But, from what I gather from several Elite tuning guides, it very likely is a cable issue.  I need to pull the cables off and check their length under 100# of pressure.  If they are long (hoping they are), then I just need to twist them until they get to the right length and re-install.  Hopefully that will fix the issue.
> 
> ...



Just as an update and so others might benefit if they run into the same thing with new strings/cables on an elite...

I'm not quite there yet, but I was able to press the bow last night and add twists at both ends of each cable and the string.  I ended up having to do it progressively.  Added two twists to the cables and one to the string (per the elite tuning guide on AT) and the ATA dropped to about 32 3/4 and the DW went up to right at 64#.  So I knew I was on the right track.

Pressed it again and did the same thing (3 twists to cables and one to string) and now the bow is ATA 32 3/8 and DW is at 67#.   I'm trying to get to roughly 32 1/4 and 70#.  Not going to worry if the ATA is off slightly as long as the DW gets in the neighborhood it should be in.

So, again, I'm not quite there.  But I didn't feel like pressing again last night.  The Bowmaster is a great tool.  But it's not nearly as easy as putting a bow in a big press.  

I think that, if I add 1 to 2 more we'll be there.  Why it was so far off, I don't know.  But it's got me wondering what would happen if I relied on a bow shop to replace strings.  I doubt they would go to the effort of making sure everything was back perfectly to specs.  

Once I get DW and ATA back in line, I'll verify DL and cam timing and sync.  Hopefully there won't be a ton of work to do there since it was pretty well in line before.

I suspect that the DL will be slightly longer because adding twists to the cables add length to the DL according to Elite.  But the couple of twists I put in the string should offset that a decent amount.  So hopefully the DL hasn't changed much.

I'm not sure why I'm fretting so much over a backup bow that I'm not even able to draw (shoulder problems won't let me draw 70 right now).  I guess just because it's June and I think it's a fun exercise.


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## Kris87 (Jun 10, 2015)

If you're not going to shoot it at 70#, and lets say you're actually gonna shoot it at 67#, then don't twist the cables up any more.  Just leave it where it is.  Then you can check the DL.  I don't like to rely on the string to adjust DL too much.  Not more than about 4 twists total.  I don't like untwisting the string either, especially more than 1 or 2 twists.  That can cause a well made string to start showing peep rotation.


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## Kris87 (Jun 10, 2015)

Brewskis said:


> Man, I knew I should have confirmed before going ahead. Oh well, I don't think I've messed anything up too bad.
> 
> I took those 4 additional twists back out of each yoke leg. After that, I added the four twists to the bottom of the buss cable plus another one, for a total of five full twists added.
> 
> ...



Doesn't matter if one has more twists than the other.  That is just going to depend on what the length was when built.  I almost always notice the factory control cable has a lot of twists, then aftermarket strings I get, the control cable is always on the short end and ends up with a lot less twists.  

Just remember after you start shooting the strings in that the buss is going to be the one to stretch the most, and that will bring that top cam behind the bottom one again.  Not much, but recheck sync every hundred shorts or so.


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## Brewskis (Jun 10, 2015)

OK, thanks for confirming. It's kinda hard to tell in this pic since it's a solid color string, but if you look closely, you can see that the control cable has HARDLY ANY twist in it. The buss cable has so much twist in it that it was hard for me to fit the string silencer into it. Also, my yoke has wanted to twist up on itself a little. Wasn't sure if that's OK.

















I compared the cables with photos of my factory strings on my Faktor (3rd pic above) and CS, and it was just like you said, buss was less twisted and control was more twisted. I was just concerned that with my new strings and cables my buss was too twisted, and my control was too untwisted.

I guess I should now tie my soft nocks and D-loop and check my draw length?


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## Huntinfool (Jun 10, 2015)

Kris87 said:


> If you're not going to shoot it at 70#, and lets say you're actually gonna shoot it at 67#, then don't twist the cables up any more.  Just leave it where it is.  Then you can check the DL.  I don't like to rely on the string to adjust DL too much.  Not more than about 4 twists total.  I don't like untwisting the string either, especially more than 1 or 2 twists.  That can cause a well made string to start showing peep rotation.



Good thought and I think you're right.  I've been thinking the same thing this morning.  

I'm pretty well convinced that I won't ever shoot a full 70# bow again.  It's just not worth the risk of re-injury.

I'll be shooting the new Synergy at probably 55# for at least the next 12 months.  So the Z will only be a backup bow and I'll likely drop it down to as close to 60# as I can. 

So, yes, I think I'm goign to leave it as is and go on with tuning from here.


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## Kris87 (Jun 10, 2015)

Brewskis said:


> I guess I should now tie my soft nocks and D-loop and check my draw length?



Don't worry about the twists, it looks fine.  

I'd go on to the nock set at this point.


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## Brewskis (Jun 10, 2015)

I tied my soft nocks and D-loop, and then put the bow on the draw board. From what I could tell, the DL read 29.625" to 29.6875". In other words, 1/8" to 3/16" too long (DL s/b 29.5").

Is this close enough or is there something I need to do in order to get it spot on?

I might add that I checked the timing on the drawboard, and noticed that the top cam is now slightly behind the bottom cam by about 1/16".


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## Kris87 (Jun 10, 2015)

That's probably about right.  Most of my Hoyts are almost 1/4" long when I get them where I want them.  Its up to you.  Measure your other bow with the factory threads still on it. Its probably long too.  Go ahead and put the top cam ahead 1/8".  Do it with the buss since you don't have any twists left out of the control.


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## Brewskis (Jun 10, 2015)

Yep, checked the Faktor, and same thing. About 1/8" longer. I actually like the feel of it as it is, so I'm going to keep it that way.

I added one full twist to each yoke leg, and put it back on the draw board. It was perfect. Top cam was ahead by 1/8".

Decided to shoot some bareshafts. First two were from 5 feet. I was pretty happy. 







I backed up a little farther, and shot some more.  Still had some decent shots, but a couple tore a little high right.






Full disclosure, I haven't been shooting a lot lately, so I'm sure my form is a little rusty/inconsistent. I'm wondering if those were more likely due to me than the tune. What do you think?


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## Kris87 (Jun 10, 2015)

Those are sweet for a few first shots.  I've spoiled you.


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## Brewskis (Jun 11, 2015)

I try to never take anything for granted. However, I kinda expected some decent holes based on your guidance, and how smooth everything has gone. Thanks again for eliminating the usual growing pains.  

I think I'm ready to get my peep installed.  Last time I did this, I pressed the bow, and just randomly placed it between the string. However, it was hard for me to tell which way it was aligned each time, and I did have to deal with some rotation issues which resulted in multiple trips in and out of the press. I have my nock-to-peep measurement I took (6"), but are there any tips/tricks to making the peep align properly at that measurement?


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## Kris87 (Jun 11, 2015)

My method for the peep is probably overkill but I rarely have to go back in and out of the press.  Do this....move the tag the builder put in the string for you to locate the center of the strands to the exact spot you want the peep to go.  Then put the bow in the draw board and draw it all the way back.  This should give you a good idea on which way the string needs to be at full draw.  From here, I've done it two ways.  Sometimes I will pull the tag to one end so I know which way I need to put my peep in when I press the bow, just a reference.  Sometimes when the bow is at full draw in the draw board, I just slip my string splitter in there and put the peep in.  There's very little resistance on the string at full draw, its all on the cables.  

Or just do it the old fashion way and put it in there and control it with the string at the bottom.


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## Brewskis (Jun 11, 2015)

I slid the thread inserted by the string builder down to where I wanted my peep. I put the bow on the drawboard, and had no problem sliding it in. Everything looked good and straight at that time and after letting down the bow.

However, after shooting an arrow, the peep (along with the D-loop) was rotated over to the left (clockwise). Shot several arrows, and whereas, the peep pulled back straight, it always ended up to the left after the shot.

Is this when I should make a change at the bottom of the string? (if so, what would I do to straighten it out?) 

Will tying the peep in above and below turn the peep at all?


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## Brewskis (Jun 11, 2015)

May have possibly answered one of my questions. Looked back at the tuning thread, and found this post. 

Applying that principle in this case, would taking a twist out of the string rotate the peep right, and center it? If so, would it matter at which can?


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## Kris87 (Jun 12, 2015)

Pic is a little blurry, but the direction the peep is rotating from straight is the direction the string would be untwisting, which means its stretching just a hair.  It will settle in after 50 shots or so.  I'd tie it in there, as its close enough.  When one is only off that much, I can normally get it into position when i tie it above and below, and also after I work it with my fingers for a bit.  

Long story short, tie it in, and mess with the position of the loop if you have too.  I bet it will straighten out.


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## Brewskis (Jun 16, 2015)

Tied my peep sight in. Another shout out to Pasinthrough for his video showing how he does it. I'd forgotten how since the last time I did this, but the video was easy to follow and re-learn.

After tying it in, I put quite a few shots through the bow, and the peep really seemed to want to stay where it was. I went back and re-read your post, and realized that perhaps I could have done a better job of manipulating the orientation of the peep while tying it in. However, not wanting to redo it, I decided to try taking one twist out of the top of the string. This lined the peep up straight, but in the opposite direction. I simply flipped it around. I checked all my specs again, and everything checked out.  It's hasn't moved/rotated from straight back after 50+ shots. Speaking of those shots, here are the results I'm getting. 

Bareshaft through paper between 5 and 10 feet.






Bareshaft and fletched at 30 yards!






Fieldpoint and broadhead at 30 yards.






Looks like the CS34 is good to go. Thanks again, Kris, for all the help! Also, I'm very happy with these JBK bow strings. Now on to the Faktor 34.


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## Huntinfool (Jun 16, 2015)

That's pretty sweet man.  I don't think anybody would accuse that bow of not being well tuned!


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## Kris87 (Jun 16, 2015)

That'll work.  Good job, just like last time.


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## Brewskis (Jun 17, 2015)

Thanks guys. How is everything turning out with the Z28, Huntinfool?

BTW, I was going back through photos I took, and saw this one which might be a useful 'tip' for someone else doing this. If you're going to save your old strings, they may or may not want to untwist after removing them based on how long they were used. As Kris mentioned, you can put these on the paperclip(s) the new strings come one. All mine came on a single paper clip, so instead of crowding another one on there at time, I just thumb-tacked them to my work bench, and later slid them onto the empty paperclip after all the news strings were on the bow.


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## Brewskis (Jul 8, 2015)

I started the string and cable swap on my Faktor 34 last night.

Top cam was way behind the bottom just like it was initially on the CS34. However, max DW was 3 lbs low (57 lbs) this time instead of 1.5 low like last time.

Added 5 twists into the bottom of the buss cable. Checked it, and top was still slightly behind just like last time. 

Removed 3 twists from the top of the control cable. checked it, and the top was now ever so slightly ahead of the bottom just like I wanted.

However, the max draw weight only came up to 58.5 lbs. Basically, I got the same 1.5 lb increase as when I did the previous steps with the CS34, but I was at 58.5 lbs to start with then and not 57. 

Any way to increase the max poundage another 1.5 lb to 60 lbs without messing up my cam sync which is now perfect?


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## Brewskis (Jul 8, 2015)

BTW, A2A and BH are in spec. Decided to wait on tying my nock set until I knew what to do about the DW, so I still don't know what the DL is.


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## Kris87 (Jul 8, 2015)

The only way to increase you DW is to keep twisting the buss cable.  If you do that, then you're going to have to twist the control cable probably twice the amount of times you twist the buss, so keep that in mind.  If it were me, since I know you're not gonna shoot it at 60#, I'd check the DL and see where it is.  If its where you want it, then I wouldn't do anything with the DW.  My CS34 only maxes at 69#.  Its a little shy too when most bows come in a little over poundage.  

If its within a pound or so, don't bother with it.  Could also be the scale too.


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## Brewskis (Jul 8, 2015)

OK, I'll move onto my nock set, and check the DL.

One other thing. I measured my speed nocks.

Bottom cam, first speed nock difference:  1/8" closer to cam
Bottom cam, second speed nock difference: 1/4" closer to cam
Top cam, first speed nock difference:  1/4" closer to cam
Top cam, second speed nock difference: 5/16" closer to cam

After my CS34 string change, the speed nocks ranged from 3/16" to 1/8" closer to the cams, so these are even a bit closer.

I should mention that when I was installing the string on the one cam the other side of the string slipped from my hand, and I wondered if it untwisted any when this happened. Would that have had any effect on the nock location relative to the cams? I've repeatedly heard that the location of the speed nocks is critical for tuning with the Z5 cams. Just not sure how critical. Are these within the tolerances, or should something be done before moving forward?


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## Kris87 (Jul 8, 2015)

I don't think that small amount is much to worry with.  Mine were a bit closer from JbK too.  No worries.


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## Brewskis (Jul 24, 2015)

Man, I hope things slow down at least a bit by the time the season starts, or I'll be hard pushed to get in a stand. Finally was able to find a few minutes last night to get back to this.

So I had completely forgotten to set my prelean before starting (I think I may go back and add a post to the tuning thread that gives a good final rundown of steps I've been following each time I start tuning from scratch since it's easy to miss a step if you're scanning quickly through the thread). 

I decided to reverse what I had done already, and took the 5 twists out of the buss cable and put 3 back into the control cable.

Back at square one, my prelean was way to much this way \ just like it was after installing the new string and cables on the CS34, so I put 5 twists into the right yoke, and got it close to where you'd want it initially. Since the top cam was pretty far ahead again, I put twists into the buss cable again (this time 4 twists) and took 2 out of the control cable. Cam sync looked good at this point with the bottom about 1/8" behind the top.

I tied in my nock set, and checked the draw length. This time, instead of being slightly long, it was slightly short.

I started shooting some bareshafts through paper, and have consistently gotten a bad nock left and low tear. Putting one twist into the left yoke leg and taking one twist out of the right yoke leg helped slightly, but the tear is still ~3/4" nock low and left. Plus, that put a little more prelean into the cam.







One factor that may or may not be relevant is that this bow was not previously tuned to shoot the arrows that I'm shooting (longer, heavier and stiffer spine now). Therefore, I'm not sure if the specs I was using before get thrown out the window.

As comfortable as I've gotten with this and thought about experimenting, I recalled this post and decided to 'phone a friend'.


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## Kris87 (Jul 27, 2015)

Jeremy, did we need to add something here for you to continue?


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## Brewskis (Jul 28, 2015)

Hey Kris, yeah, I guess I should have been more clear. I'm not really sure where to go from here to get rid of this nock low and left tear. I didn't want to start twisting and untwisting and mess things up, so decided to stop and ask.

Sync is good - top slightly ahead
Specs are close to spot-on (DL a hair short and DW 1.5 lb low)
Nock point is just a hair higher than level with rest
Rest is same height as it was before (don't recall off the top of my head the location of arrow running through Berger hole)
Center shot is the same as it was before (just a hair beyond 3/4")
Cam prelean has arrow shaft held against top cam passing behind string just above nock point
This bow was never set up/tuned for these arrows, so I'm guessing that may have something to do with it?

If I had to hazard a guess, I'd say I should start by raising my nock point, but what do you say? Appreciate any help you can give.


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## Kris87 (Jul 28, 2015)

I'd go in this order....move the rest to dead up 3/4" centershot.  Add one full twist in the upper left yoke, and don't take one out of the right, adding just a bit of lean, and letting the top cam be just a hair more ahead than the bottom.  Then re-shoot it.  If that doesn't clean up the tear, then move the rest down a bit.  I try not to mess with the nocking points and loops unless its way off.  

The tear isn't bad.  Won't take much to clean it up.


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## Brewskis (Jul 28, 2015)

Spot-on advice as usual. Moving on to the peep, and then outdoors. Thanks again, man.


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## Kris87 (Jul 29, 2015)

Did you have to do anything other than what I mentioned?  Those are good tears.


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## Brewskis (Jul 29, 2015)

I moved the rest in to 3/4" and added a twist in the left yoke. That got it pretty close. I added one more to the left and that was too much, so I took a half twist out of the right and that was perfect.

As you mentioned, I've got more prelean now, but I'm guessing that's OK based on the bullet holes I'm getting now?


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## Kris87 (Jul 29, 2015)

yeah, you still don't have too much.  just what it needs with that arrow setup.  I had a bow that had to have more lean to shoot a 100gr head than a 125gr head.  I never could figure out why the arrow was behaving that way....sometimes you just have to give them what they want.


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## Brewskis (Jul 29, 2015)

I'll tell you, I can't imagine not have a yoked buss cable when tuning a bow. It's a big help.


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## Mavren (Jul 29, 2015)

Yeah, same here Brewskis.  I got my strings in from JBK and have been slowly working at getting mine in tune using your post as reference.  The yokes make it WAY easier to tune.  My new Spot Hogg sight should be at home waiting for me when I get there so I should be able to paper tune this weekend!


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## Brewskis (Jul 30, 2015)

Glad to hear you got your strings, Mavren. I was just wondering how your string change was going. Sounds like things are going smoothly so far.


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## Brewskis (Jul 30, 2015)

Kris87 said:


> yeah, you still don't have too much.  just what it needs with that arrow setup.  I had a bow that had to have more lean to shoot a 100gr head than a 125gr head.  I never could figure out why the arrow was behaving that way....sometimes you just have to give them what they want.



BTW, speaking of arrows, last season, I was using Nockturnal H lighted nocks on my arrows.

This year my arrows are longer, heavier, and have a stronger spine. Plus, I moved up to a 125 grain head. I still haven't installed the lighted nocks into my current arrows. Will adding the 11 extra grains to the back of the arrow have any affect on the tune and/or negatively affect my F.O.C. too much?


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## Kris87 (Jul 30, 2015)

It will change your FOC % around a half a percent, so nothing to worry about.  Won't change your tune either.  My nockturnals are exactly 1-2 yards low on my sight tape at 60 yards.  That's nothing to worry about IMO.


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## Brewskis (Jul 31, 2015)

OK, good to know, thanks.

The backup bow is ready. Getting excellent arrow flight outdoors too. Glad testing went quickly in this heat. Was nearly drenched in sweat after five minutes of shooting.

Thanks again for all the help.

Bareshaft and fletched at 20 yards:






Fletched and broadhead at 30 yards:






New red threads:


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## devils12 (Aug 2, 2015)

I posted on the tuning thread as well, I am getting a high left tear. Center shot is set at 3/4" and the sync is off by a little. The bottom is touching before the top. In this scenario, I think I need to add a twist to the left cable...is this correct and do I do it to the cable on the left from the shooter side? I know that is probably a dumb question but I want to be sure on that one.  Thanks for your help!


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## devils12 (Aug 2, 2015)

IFinally figured out how to load images. The four in the middle are the ones in question. The top right is from my bow.


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## Kris87 (Aug 3, 2015)

What kind of bow, and what kind of arrow rest are we talking about devil?  That's a pretty nasty tear.


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## devils12 (Aug 3, 2015)

It is a Bear Effect with a whisker biscuit. Shooting a Bloodline 400 @ 29" of carbon and 64 lbs with a 100 gr FP.

Thanks Kris!


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## Kris87 (Aug 3, 2015)

Well, first get the cam sync right.  The bottom shouldn't be touching before the top.  Normally when that's the case, it causes a nock low tear.  If it is doing that, and you're getting a high tear, then its probably bouncing through the whisker biscuit.  I've seen that several times from hybrid cam and single cam bows.  

Get the sync right, then set the nock height so that its 1/16-1/8" ABOVE level.  Then reshoot it.


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## devils12 (Aug 3, 2015)

10-4. What is the best way to get the sync right? I have never attempted any of this so please be patient with me.


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## Kris87 (Aug 3, 2015)

You're goint to need a press for starters, and a draw board would be helpful too.  You can check the sync using a hook and pulling down and eyeballing it, but you're going to need a press to adjust the cables.  If the bottom is hitting first, then can start by untwisting the control cable.  

If all of this is brand new to you, and you don't have the proper tools, then I'd seek help from a shop.


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## Mavren (Aug 5, 2015)

Hey Kris87, quick question here.  I've got to the point where the strings are one, cams are timed, lean is set, and paper tune is showing bullet holes.  I was going to set the 20 yard pin and attempt walk back tuning but then it occured to me that I will likely have string stretch over the next 100-200 shots or so.  Should I just run 100-200 shots through the bow first and then revisit timing, paper tune, walk back tune etc. so that I'm not duplicating the effort or will the string stretch make that much of a difference?


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## Kris87 (Aug 5, 2015)

I normally shoot mine indoors 30-50 times and call it good.  Very rarely does my cam sync move after that.  This last set of BCY-X threads I got from JBK had virtually no stretch from the first shot on.  But I always check it periodically to make sure.  I'd go ahead and sight it in.  If you have to make adjustments, they will be very, very small, and won't affect your sight much.


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## devils12 (Aug 8, 2015)

Good morning kris,

I just shot four arrows through this bow and attached is what I got. The only thing I have changed is that I tightened the limb bolts all the way down. The hexx is fletched as you can see and is the arrow that my son purchased for this bow. What gives on the high left tear being gone?


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## Kris87 (Aug 8, 2015)

I had this same question from another member just this week.  Anytime u tighten/loosen the limbs it can affect left and right travel because the string's path changes. It can go either way.  That's why u always tune the bow on exact poundage you're going to shoot.  I've read some guys turning bow down to practice, then up to hunt.  That's not a good idea unless u recheck everything.


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## devils12 (Aug 8, 2015)

Thanks for the lesson Kris! I will definitely set it where he is gong to hunt and then dial it in.


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