# What size spinning reel is your preference for inshore fishing?



## germag

I take a 2500, a 3000 and a 4000, and a Baitrunner 6500, along with spare rigs for each (except the 6500) and just use what seems to be appropriate for the bite. I usually end up using the smallest rig I have with me, but they all do see use. I have this one place I can go to and park and pick up 30-50 lb black drum until I fill the boat up, or I can pull into the mouth of this one little tidal creek and fill the boat with yellow croakers. Obviously I need at least a 4000 for the drum, and I use it if I start finding some bull reds. A 3000 will handle any speck in the water....and I use the 2500 for croakers and such.....I love to eat croakers. Fried whole like a bream they are delicious. I'm thinking about starting to use a 1000 sized reel on an ultralight rod for the croakers....that would be a FIGHT on a good sized croaker.


Anyway.....how do you do it?


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## wharfrat

It's really all about personal preference. We have caught reds on 1000 series reels up to 30 lbs. Line obviously is a factor. Twenty pound braid has a breaking strength of nearly 40 lbs. So conceivingly, even with the drag locked down, you can muscle in some pretty serious fish if the rod can take it. I know some guys that fish with 2lb and 4lb mono, looking to set line class records and have caught many fish over 20 lbs. (Braid and fluoro won't qualify for line class records) As a rule, a bigger spool will cast further (spinning gear), so a lot of folks have started using 4000 size spools for popping corks for distance. A 7 1/2 ft or 8 ft rod paired with a 4000 size reel with 10-30 lb, braid will throw a mile. Me personally, I have used it all, and for all purpose (jigs, corks, plugs, etc) I like a 3000 or 2500 size spool paired with 20 lb braid and a 7 or 7 1/2 foot quality graphite rod. I'll set the drag according to the situation. I have lifted many fish up to 20 lbs right up to the gunnels...and slung lotsa yellow tails and croakers on the same rig. All what works for you.


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## germag

That's what I usually end up spending 90% of my time with....a 2500 or 3000 size reel with a 7 foot St Croix inshore rod. I just put together another 4000 size rig with a 7 1/2 foot St Croix custom build from Jeff Eller, mostly just for popping corks. I use Shimano Sustain reels for my primary rig for each size and Shimano Stradics for my back-up/spare rigs. Then I usually take a baitcaster (Curado 200d salt water version) with me just in case....but I'm not sure about "in case of what?".


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## Rodsmith

Posts like the ones above prove that I am right when I tell my wife that a man can never have too many rigs! I walked her through my arsenal one day and explained what each combo was designed for, and why it was designed that way. After a 15 minute educational session on the finer points of my toys and their intended uses, she simply looked at the rack then looked at me and said...."what ever", Why can't you just change the hook and catch all that on one?  I didn't figure there was any use after that point... Oh...forgot to mention my favorite inshore spinning reel, Stradic 2500FI's and Ci4 2500's on the spinning side, and a Quantum PTS for casting artificials.


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## germag

Rodsmith said:


> Posts like the ones above prove that I am right when I tell my wife that a man can never have too many rigs! I walked her through my arsenal one day and explained what each combo was designed for, and why it was designed that way. After a 15 minute educational session on the finer points of my toys and their intended uses, she simply looked at the rack then looked at me and said...."what ever", Why can't you just change the hook and catch all that on one?  I didn't figure there was any use after that point...



 I'm pretty doggone lucky in that respect. My wife never questions it.


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## Darkhorse

Fished some of the flats around Tampa Bay for trout a few weeks ago. I was using a Shimano Symetre 2500 with 10 lb. braid and a Shimano rod with extra fast taper. The reel was perfect for the species, the rod was not. The fish had to be netted quick due to the unforgiving rod and a trouts soft mouth. This was made more critical as I was in a kayak.
I just ordered a Quantom PT 4000 and a Shimano SE coastal rod 7'6" with fast taper. The reel will be spooled with 20 lb. braid. I expect to pack around 300 yards on this reel.
I almost bought the medium fast taper but since this setup will see a lot of snook fishing with a possible tarpon bycatch I went with the fast taper.
Sometimes the target species will determine what the reel, rod and line combo will be.  And even though I could get away with a smaller reel for most surf fishing, this outfit will do the job just fine with a cushion for the stray big fish.
I fished kingfish tourneys for a decade or so and I guess I really hate the idea of being spooled....again.


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## germag

Darkhorse said:


> Fished some of the flats around Tampa Bay for trout a few weeks ago. I was using a Shimano Symetre 2500 with 10 lb. braid and a Shimano rod with extra fast taper. The reel was perfect for the species, the rod was not. The fish had to be netted quick due to the unforgiving rod and a trouts soft mouth. This was made more critical as I was in a kayak.
> I just ordered a Quantom PT 4000 and a Shimano SE coastal rod 7'6" with fast taper. The reel will be spooled with 20 lb. braid. I expect to pack around 300 yards on this reel.
> I almost bought the medium fast taper but since this setup will see a lot of snook fishing with a possible tarpon bycatch I went with the fast taper.
> Sometimes the target species will determine what the reel, rod and line combo will be.  And even though I could get away with a smaller reel for most surf fishing, this outfit will do the job just fine with a cushion for the stray big fish.
> I fished kingfish tourneys for a decade or so and I guess I really hate the idea of being spooled....again.



Can I ask you a question? What is it that made you choose Quantum for the reel? "Personal preference" is a valid answer, BTW...but if there's something tangible that you like about Quantum over Shimano or Diawa or whatever, I would appreciate it if you would share that.

I think the 4000 sized reels, especially with braid and with a well matched rod is really overkill for inshore fish (notice I didn't say "fishing"). It's enough to drag in the biggest red, trout, black drum, etc....or even sharks that you would find inshore. The reason I have 4000 sized rigs is for fishing under a popping cork....I need it for the technique, not the fish. You can get a lot better popping action with the heavier gear and braid....it's just easier to get that "snap". There's nothing wrong with using a bigger rig than you need, but after a while you are going to have some fatigue from the extra weight. I'd much rather swing a 2500 sized rig all day throwing artificials.


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## Showman

@Rodsmith: I know the boat you are in with a wife that just won't try to understand.  She feels a Zebco 33 is the only thing she needs to pull in anything in the ocean.  Well, she hung into a Hammerhead Shark once and I thought "yep, she's about to learn a lesson on reels".  Low and Behold, she got it in-took close to an hour-but she did it.  Weigh'd about 50 pounds to boot.  I thought sure that reel would have given up and blown apart but she did it.  Yep, I am still surprised it held up-until she hooked a small Ray and the reel finally came apart (but not till she had the Ray at the side of the boat).  So, off to the "get'n" store, bought herself another Zebco 33.  

Last time we went to the Gulf, we took 2 of the grandson's with us.  Of course the Zebco was with us but we took heavier stuff and a couple ultra-lites along also.  Used the ultra-lites to catch baitfish (grandkids loved that part).  I usually use a Stradic 4000 for most everything but back it up with an older Diawa, a couple of baitcasters (Diawa/Quantum) and a 6500 ABU (for larger game).  Wife won't touch anything but her Zebco 33 though.


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## Darkhorse

Germag,

The answer to the size reel is in my post. I'm originally from central Fla. and we weren't real sophisticated back in the 60's & 70's so I was spooled several times when a big tarpon or snook hit a pinfish. I still have family down there and this new reel will see a good bit of snook fishing. Maybe overkill, maybe not. Depends on what hits the bait.
I have no experience with Quantom, just decided to try one. Mainly I have Shimano's, and some old Daiwa's I used when offshore fishing. This quantom weighs about the same as a Shimano Symetre or less with more line capacity.
This new reel won't be my only choice as I have several to choose from. It's just that my old 4000 series bit the dust and needed to be replaced. And this is what I chose to replace it.
What I forsee happening in a year or 2 is this; A new, heavier rod will be purchased and this reel will find a new home. And a new 3500 will end up on the Teramar rod. And maybe not.
Everybody has a perspective. Mine is this; I can fish inshore if I wish, or I can fish the surf in the fall and handle a big bull red if it hits. I have fished a lot with a 4000 series and never found it to be tiring. I don't expect this one to be any different.
But I think for general inshore fishing where trout & small reds are the target a 2500 with 10 lb. braid and a medium fast, medium action rod is about perfect. And I just happen to have one of these also.


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## Dustin Pate

I am partial to a 3000 size but have smaller and larger if needed. Most all of mine are filled with braid of differing sizes.


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## germag

Darkhorse said:


> Germag,
> 
> The answer to the size reel is in my post. I'm originally from central Fla. and we weren't real sophisticated back in the 60's & 70's so I was spooled several times when a big tarpon or snook hit a pinfish. I still have family down there and this new reel will see a good bit of snook fishing. Maybe overkill, maybe not. Depends on what hits the bait.
> I have no experience with Quantom, just decided to try one. Mainly I have Shimano's, and some old Daiwa's I used when offshore fishing. This quantom weighs about the same as a Shimano Symetre or less with more line capacity.
> This new reel won't be my only choice as I have several to choose from. It's just that my old 4000 series bit the dust and needed to be replaced. And this is what I chose to replace it.
> What I forsee happening in a year or 2 is this; A new, heavier rod will be purchased and this reel will find a new home. And a new 3500 will end up on the Teramar rod. And maybe not.
> Everybody has a perspective. Mine is this; I can fish inshore if I wish, or I can fish the surf in the fall and handle a big bull red if it hits. I have fished a lot with a 4000 series and never found it to be tiring. I don't expect this one to be any different.
> But I think for general inshore fishing where trout & small reds are the target a 2500 with 10 lb. braid and a medium fast, medium action rod is about perfect. And I just happen to have one of these also.



Perfect. Thanks. It was just curiousity on my part. I just got finished spooling up a 4000 with a 12 lb mono backing, 40 lb braid, and about 6 ft of 12 lb fluorocarbon leader. I've landed more than one 40+ lb black drum with this combination....they take some drag, but so far I never got spooled yet. 

I still have an old Quantum bait caster that I've had for years and just never did really warm up to it....it just stands in the corner out of the way.


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## Rodsmith

Showman, I'm sure quite a few of us have that problem bud. I still don't understand why my wife has 16 different bottles of make up?? or why in the world underwear has to match what they are wearing on the outside. The old zebco 33 has been around for many moons and many a fish has been brought to the boat with them. I guess its all in what you like personally...if it works...it works! 

Darkhorse, I noticed you discussing your rods, as well as the reels, VERY good points to bring to light. The reel is a very neccessary fixture of course, but if the rod can't perform, or handle the target species well, as well as a stray big fish, your combo is of not much use to you. Most of my inshore spinning rods are in the 7 foot class, and in medium power with a fast tip. These rods are great for finesse for trout and reds, and with a properly set drag will handle the unexpected overslot red with ease also. I have countless blanks available to me, but most all of my personal inshore stuff is the St. Croix M-F SCII inshore(Tidemaster in the stores) I have found the action of these rods  perfect for popping corks and jigging, and the backbone is awesome. Of course to each his own in rods as well, but these have served me well over the past 10 years or so. Your combo seems to be a well "matched" set up and should serve you well!


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## germag

Rodsmith said:


> Showman, I'm sure quite a few of us have that problem bud. I still don't understand why my wife has 16 different bottles of make up?? or why in the world underwear has to match what they are wearing on the outside. The old zebco 33 has been around for many moons and many a fish has been brought to the boat with them. I guess its all in what you like personally...if it works...it works!
> 
> Darkhorse, I noticed you discussing your rods, as well as the reels, VERY good points to bring to light. The reel is a very neccessary fixture of course, but if the rod can't perform, or handle the target species well, as well as a stray big fish, your combo is of not much use to you. Most of my inshore spinning rods are in the 7 foot class, and in medium power with a fast tip. These rods are great for finesse for trout and reds, and with a properly set drag will handle the unexpected overslot red with ease also. I have countless blanks available to me, but most all of my personal inshore stuff is the St. Croix M-F SCII inshore(Tidemaster in the stores) I have found the action of these rods  perfect for popping corks and jigging, and the backbone is awesome. Of course to each his own in rods as well, but these have served me well over the past 10 years or so. Your combo seems to be a well "matched" set up and should serve you well!



I think there's a lot of confusion around how different manufacturers rate their rod power and tip. I know it confuses me. If they would all use a common system, it sure would make things easier. Here's what I've sort of figured out myself....I sure would like to know how it really works. Some manufacturers seem to use the taper rate for the tip, and some use the rate at which it returns to a straight normal position. A fast taper, to me, would mean less strength in the tip, therefore a slower return. A fast tip would indicate to me just that, a fast return to normal....a stiffer tip. St Croix uses the fast, medium, slow return to normal....that's a lot easier for me to understand. Is my thinking screwed up on this? The power of the rod seems to be pretty easy to follow, I've never had any problems with that....it's just the tip rating that's confusing to me.


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## Rodsmith

The standard for every manufacturer that uses this rating system, as not all do, is the "speed" at which the graphite tapers to a point. For example, if a rod blank is rated as "fast" tip, the graphite will taper more quickly than would a "moderate"or "slow" tip. So the faster the tip, the more flex there is at the top end of the rod, the slower the tip, the less flex at the top. Power in a rod blank is controlled by the actual thickness of the blank walls, as well as the diameter toward the mid section all the way down to the butt section. But like you said, there are going to be variances in blanks from one to the other, but generally all the higher end guys usually like to stay pretty accurate with their rating system in this regard.


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## Darkhorse

I have an old Daiwa Sealine Magnetic (450 yds. 20 mono)that's matched to a Daiwa Sealine 7' FT graphite rod. It will throw a 2 or 3 Oz. lure a country mile if I do my part. Back then in the early 80's, FT meant "Fast Tip" and it seems more flexible (softer) than today's rods.
I've lately had to upgrade some tackle both salt & fresh because I tend to buy good stuff then wear it out, and when it comes time to replace a rod the technolgy has changed. So my recent research reveals this about rod terms:
Basically the action of a rod is determined by where the rod bends, therefore a fast tip will mostly bent in the upper 1/4 section of the rod.
An extra fast tip will bend in the upper 1/3.
And a medium fast will bend about halfway down.
From what this means in my experience;
My extra fast taper with the 2500 will throw a light mirrorlure across the lagoon into the mangroves on the other side. But when you hook a trout and get a treble in that soft mouth the rod doesn't want to bend and when he flops the hook gets yanked out. This rod was bought to  bass fish light soft plastics like swim baits where a lot of backbone is needed to drive a large single hook home.
A good medium fast action is basically crankbait type rod. It will bend over most of it's length and allow a fish to hookup easier and be more forgiving when she jumps or is close to the boat. It should also have the backbone to land a good fish. My shimano baitcast Crankbait specific rod will also throw a bait a long way but it will bend in a long arc.
A fast action will be somewhere between these two. More forgiving than an extra fast and less forgiving than the medium fast. 
I hope was able to make some sense of this. Take a fast action rod and attach your line to something and then bend the rod, notice where the majority of the bend is.
The FT rods have a lot of backbone if needed.

Another note on setting the drag with the rod. Using the line class listed on the rod (stronger braid can be substituted) attach the line to an immovable object. Loosen the drag and load the rod. When the rod reaches it's full bend the drag should slip at that point. The drag is now set for the line test listed on the rod. I usually set mine a little lighter.
This really works. This has been the only way any of my drags have been set since the early 80's including light tackle offshore. With good premium line it has eliminated line breakage for me and my family.


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## germag

Darkhorse said:


> I have an old Daiwa Sealine Magnetic (450 yds. 20 mono)that's matched to a Daiwa Sealine 7' FT graphite rod. It will throw a 2 or 3 Oz. lure a country mile if I do my part. Back then in the early 80's, FT meant "Fast Tip" and it seems more flexible (softer) than today's rods.
> I've lately had to upgrade some tackle both salt & fresh because I tend to buy good stuff then wear it out, and when it comes time to replace a rod the technolgy has changed. So my recent research reveals this about rod terms:
> Basically the action of a rod is determined by where the rod bends, therefore a fast tip will mostly bent in the upper 1/4 section of the rod.
> An extra fast tip will bend in the upper 1/3.
> And a medium fast will bend about halfway down.
> From what this means in my experience;
> My extra fast taper with the 2500 will throw a light mirrorlure across the lagoon into the mangroves on the other side. But when you hook a trout and get a treble in that soft mouth the rod doesn't want to bend and when he flops the hook gets yanked out. This rod was bought to  bass fish light soft plastics like swim baits where a lot of backbone is needed to drive a large single hook home.
> A good medium fast action is basically crankbait type rod. It will bend over most of it's length and allow a fish to hookup easier and be more forgiving when she jumps or is close to the boat. It should also have the backbone to land a good fish. My shimano baitcast Crankbait specific rod will also throw a bait a long way but it will bend in a long arc.
> A fast action will be somewhere between these two. More forgiving than an extra fast and less forgiving than the medium fast.
> I hope was able to make some sense of this. Take a fast action rod and attach your line to something and then bend the rod, notice where the majority of the bend is.
> The FT rods have a lot of backbone if needed.
> 
> Another note on setting the drag with the rod. Using the line class listed on the rod (stronger braid can be substituted) attach the line to an immovable object. Loosen the drag and load the rod. When the rod reaches it's full bend the drag should slip at that point. The drag is now set for the line test listed on the rod. I usually set mine a little lighter.
> This really works. This has been the only way any of my drags have been set since the early 80's including light tackle offshore. With good premium line it has eliminated line breakage for me and my family.



That's a good point about the drag. Exceeding the line weight on the rod with the drag will get you a broken rod. Sometimes folks think they have all that extra line strength, so they crank down on the drag. Not good. When I use braid, I also use a fluoro leader and make sure that the breaking strength of the fluoro is less than the rod rating. If I'm using 40lb braid, I'm using 12 lb fluoro leader. I'm not all that worried about the fish breaking off or losing my terminal tackle or whatever...I use the drag to reduce the chances of that, but mostly to protect the rod.


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## Gamikatsu

Giggles....

Shimano curado 200BSF (i think thats the model) on a 7" uglyl stick light pro graphite.  med/fast.  Using my new favorite line.  Suffix 832 20 lb.  Works GREAT!!!  before i switched to the suffix i had 30 lb spider wire on it, and landed a 28 lb red drum on it.  that rod was bent hard, but the shimano held it.  if not that my cheapy sedona 2500 on a ugly stick light pro med/med... i'm a cheapy... kind of a 1 rod for each occasion guy... but i'm growing my collection....


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## Darkhorse

I bought 2 of those rods about 10 years ago at Wal Mart in Warner Robins. A M & a MH, 6'8" for $34.95 apiece. It says Graphite on the rod.
One of those is my everyday bass rod with a Shimano baitcast (can't remember the models I have unless I'm looking at it) spooled with 15 lb power pro. And I can tell you it is every bit as sensitive as my higher priced rods and drives a hook home with ease.
My M action is currently waiting on a new reel as I replaced it with a Shimano crankbait rod.
Those Pro Light ugly sticks are a really good rod.


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## Hooked On Quack

RIP Germag, I hope you're wearing the fish out on the other side !!!


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## wharfrat

RIP Germag. Prayers sent to the family.


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## Darkhorse

Did I miss something here? I was just PM' ing with Germag as    recently as the 15th.


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## Gamikatsu

As was I dark.  His passing was Sudden and not expected.  Germag i hope all is well with your family, and may you Rest in Peace.


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