# Cane Arrows - first attempt



## Bowhunterga (Feb 4, 2013)

I am working on my first attempt at cane arrows and had a couple of questions I am hoping someone can help me with.

1) Once I cut my self nocks, I plan to reinforce them with artificial sinew as that is the best option I have available. What glue should I use to finish the sinew wrap?

2) What do you typically use for target type field points with cane arrows? Normal points or something else?


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## NCHillbilly (Feb 4, 2013)

Superglue, Titebond wood glue, or most any other good glue will work well. I often put regular field points on them. If you've got the right size of cane, you can usually taper them and put an 11/32" or  23/64" field point on. If you have cane with the walls too thin to get a good taper, glue a bamboo skewer or hardwood plug into the end of the cane before tapering. I've also used some points that a friend of mine made up that consisted of a brass point brazed onto the head of a 16d nail. You can cut the nail shaft to fine-tune weight.


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## Jake Allen (Feb 4, 2013)

Good luck with these Steve.

The Nicodemus way: (good thread)

http://forum.gon.com/showthread.php?t=132432&highlight=cane+arrow

Also, Tomi is good with cane arrows, especially straightening the shafts, hafting and wrapping.


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## Bowhunterga (Feb 4, 2013)

Thank you both. Jeff, surprisingly I was able to straighten the 1st shaft relatively easily. Just took my time and so far it looks good. I only have 6 to practice with until the ones I got over the weekend dry out so no need to get into a hurry. I will read over the thread you referenced and go from there. 

Thanks so much gents!


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## dutchman (Feb 4, 2013)

Jake Allen said:


> Good luck with these Steve.
> 
> Also, Tomi is good with cane arrows, especially straightening the shafts, hafting and wrapping.



Seems like I heard something about her preference of real sinew because she likes chewing it. Any truth to that?


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## blocky (Feb 4, 2013)

This could get interesting.


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## NCHillbilly (Feb 4, 2013)

Here are a couple of "alternative" target points-one is the nail points I was referring to, and another is osage. I've also made them out of antler and bone. You can add some weight in the front of the shaft if you need to with lighter wood and antler points.


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## sadiejane (Feb 4, 2013)

duplex nails, spent shells for blunts, carved fire hardened wood points...
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





these are down n dirty hickory points. nothing much to look at but they take small game no problem. these have both taken rabbit and squirrel. most always carve my wood points in the shape of a triangle, three very sharp edges. sometimes when im rabbit hunting, i carry a few extras already carved in my bag, in case they get busted or dull. fast n easy to stick a new one in since i initially use pitch or hot melt. a minute and a lighter.


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## NCHillbilly (Feb 4, 2013)

Good looking arrows! Those brass shell casings work great for small game and stump shooting blunts-I pour a little lead in 'em sometimes for weight.


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## Bowhunterga (Feb 4, 2013)

Nice looking points!


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## TNGIRL (Feb 5, 2013)

some cool bunny busters there guys!!!!!

Martin has posted some nice points he made on cane arrows with antlers also.

One other idea, when making cane arrows, I always glued inside both ends a piece of dowel that was very small diameter but fit great(buy them at Walmart/Lowe's)or make your own whittlin'. You do it before tapering the end or cutting your noc. Now I've mentioned this to a few fellows on here that are very skilllllllled craftsmen concerning the making of a cane arrow, and they told me it was pointless. But I honestly have found it to give my cane arrow more strength at both ends. Yes, I also know how very strong a cane arrow is but they can split and break, esp. if hit by another arrow. And when I have put alot of time and effort into a cane arrow, this is just a small extra to keep it a working arrow longer for me. It made very little difference with the weight either.
I used whatever glue I had that dried clear on my sinew wrapping, only takes a finger smear really. (And NO I don't chew my sinew..... Dutchmannnnnnnn)

Here is another version of an adaptation of a shell casing, it is VERY effective with small game and can be used on cane or wooden arrows.

Also, if you are gonna be at the SGTP shoot on Sat, I saw where Ben Kirkland posted he's attending....he is a mastercraftsman at making cane arrows....and very tolerate of questions and stawking fans.......


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## blood on the ground (Feb 5, 2013)

im lovin this thread!


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## dpoole (Feb 6, 2013)

steve talk to Dan Spires he makes hardwood inserts that work great.


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## SELFBOW (Feb 6, 2013)

dpoole said:


> steve talk to Dan Spires he makes hardwood inserts that work great.



3Rivers also has them and horn nocks.

Let me say I am just a student at this.


For me I wrap mine w sinew before cutting the nock in the cane. It helps me not to split it.
Ive also learned its better to use a piece of hardwood inserted inside the shaft and the antler vs a shoulder like made on this one. The wood in both gives more support.





Ive made 8 arrows over the last two weeks. Im hunting w one now w an insert and a razorhead on the tip. Had a shot at a pig Monday and hit a twig and deflected over the pigs back.
 Here's a few....




Dont let this crooked one fool ya. Its killed 6 rabbits.


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## TNGIRL (Feb 6, 2013)

Those look good Martin....watch out tho, toooo much heat at those joints, when straightening them, will cause them to be brittle. No No:


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## SELFBOW (Feb 7, 2013)

TNGIRL said:


> Those look good Martin....watch out tho, toooo much heat at those joints, when straightening them, will cause them to be brittle. No No:



I use a heat gun. I darkened them for appearance....


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## dpoole (Feb 7, 2013)

good looking arrows !!!!


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## stabow (Feb 7, 2013)

Very nice


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## Bowhunterga (Feb 8, 2013)

Thanks for all the advice, photos and comments. I will definitely look for Ben tomorrow.


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