# muzzleloader round ball question



## ratman (Jul 10, 2009)

Could wheel weights be melted down & used for round ball in muzzleloaders?


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## dpoole (Jul 10, 2009)

i would think lead is lead  if mekted down and poured into the correct size mold.


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## allenww (Jul 10, 2009)

Yessir


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## hawgrider1200 (Jul 10, 2009)

*Muzzleloading balls*



allenww said:


> Yessir



One of the favorite ways of making bullets is melting down wheel weights, muzzleloading balls or conicals for cartridges. Lots of folks melt em and pour jig heads for fishing.


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## Nugefan (Jul 10, 2009)

I don't see why not just be careful of the fumes ....


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## ratman (Jul 10, 2009)

Thanks all


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## Nicodemus (Jul 10, 2009)

Just make sure that it is pure lead, and not a mix of lead and other metals.


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## dutchman (Jul 10, 2009)

Nicodemus said:


> Just make sure that it is pure lead, and not a mix of lead and other metals.



That'd be my worry in using 'em...


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## dpoole (Jul 11, 2009)

If melted down would not the other metals seperate from the lead ?


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## Swamper (Jul 11, 2009)

dpoole said:


> If melted down would not the other metals seperate from the lead ?



The only thing that seperates are the metal clips that hold the weight to the wheel. I suggest making a basket out of heavy hardware mesh and have at it. I used to cast years ago and wheel weights while not pure lead, work great for musket balls, pistol bullets, ect.
BE SURE, the weights are DRY when you cast, or you will, have an explosion of hot lead.

http://www.lasc.us/CastBulletAlloy.htm


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## tv_racin_fan (Jul 14, 2009)

Wheel weights should work great for bullets but I aint so sure about round ball for a cap n ball firearm. I know I wouldn't use ball cast from wheel weights in my revolvers. They would work ok in my rifles tho. Might even be better than the screw ball...


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## bowyer (Jul 14, 2009)

Avoid any weights that are too hard to scratch with your fingernail or have Zn printed on the side. These have zinc in them which will ruin a batch of pure soft lead for molding purposes. Most stick-on weights are soft lead and desirable for black powder hunting bullets. Clip on weights are made of harder alloy and are good for target practice. But also be aware that the hardness of the alloy also affects the diameter of the cast bullet. Harder alloys result in smaller diameter bullets. Hope this helps.


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## stev (Jul 14, 2009)

Just skim the top when melting .Its all good lead


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## Dymoke (Sep 2, 2011)

*cooling to fast*

When I try to pour my .45 balls the lead cools be for it gets in the hole, I've heated the ladle and the mold--- the .54 balls pour OK??


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## kullas (Sep 2, 2011)

wheel weights contain tin and antimony and is very good for making boolits unless you are using the Lee R.E.A.L. mold which the Rifling is engraved at loading and then pure lead would be better to help in loading.



Dymoke said:


> When I try to pour my .45 balls the lead cools be for it gets in the hole, I've heated the ladle and the mold--- the .54 balls pour OK??



try getting the mold a little hotter so it dont cool the lead as fast and can try getting the lead a little hotter that will help the pour and help to heat up the mold. i dip my mold and sprue plate in the lead to heat it up and still have to cast 15 or 20 before it gets up to temp and starts casting good boolits


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## Whiteeagle (Sep 2, 2011)

Read yuor Muzzleloader Bible. States to use only PURE SOFT lead so as not to wear out the shallow rifling in ml barrels. Won't find any in my bag except pure lead. Been shooting  .50 cal Mtn rifle and .45 cal Kaintuck for 40+ years and still good to go!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## Dymoke (Sep 4, 2011)

Thanks I'll try  your way soon, (I hope)


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## Son (Sep 5, 2011)

A friend and I melted down some lead many years ago. 1960's. It was too hard evidently. We shot deer with the round balls we made from the lead. Those balls went thru the deer, same size hole coming out as going in. And the bucks ran several hundred yards before going down. Lung shots too.


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