# Shingle to metal roof transition



## kevozz (Jan 11, 2011)

Anyone ever used metal roofing and shingles together?  The main house has a good pitch, around 7-12, and shingles are good.  The addition is close to flat, 2-12 or even less with major leaks.  Since this will be a rental, we have found the cheapest way is to use metal roofing, 29 ga, $1.79 a linear foot.  

Do they sell a transition between a shingle and metal roof, or any other suggestions?

Thanks.


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## deadend (Jan 11, 2011)

There is a transition that the shingles will lap over.


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## rjcruiser (Jan 11, 2011)

Just tuck it up and under the existing shingles far enough to keep it from leaking again.  Might have to undo a row of nails...just depends on how high up on the bottom shingle they nailed it.

Also, roofing tar is your friend


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## Dead Eye Eddy (Jan 11, 2011)

I would do as rjc suggested and just tuck the metal underneath the bottom row of shingles and tar the heck out of the joint.  If the water can't run back up the metal under the shingles, then it can't leak.


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## deadend (Jan 11, 2011)

Not buying 10$ worth of transition metal would be a waste. Do it right and do it once. It will be harder and more costly in the long run to redneck it with tar and duct tape. I have repaired many roofs that were cobbled together in that fashion.


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## shakey gizzard (Jan 11, 2011)

And the cheapest way is not necessarilly the best!


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## kevozz (Jan 11, 2011)

Thanks for the suggestions.  I'll look for a transition piece and add  a little tar too.  Wasn't sure they made one.

Thanks.


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## THREEJAYS (Jan 11, 2011)

If it has that low of a slope consider blocking the gap between metal and the flashing so water doesn't back up in a hard or blowing rain.


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## skiff23 (Jan 11, 2011)

Use the transition flashing made by the metal company and do it right. Tar will not fix the problem and will look like -------,and when you do go back to fix the leak, the tar will be heck to deal with. Do it right the first time. It will be cheaper and easier from the getgo and be done from now on.
I prefer to lap 2 rows of shingles. Just to be safe.


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## gobbleinwoods (Jan 11, 2011)

As others have said, stay away from the tar/roof cement.  It only makes a dam for water to stay behind and leak.   If it is a true 2/12 also be careful with the nails or screws to get them tight but not overly so as they too can leak.


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## Streetsweeper (Jan 12, 2011)

Just hit up gemcgrew on here. He is mostly in the small game section and owns G&G Roofing, he can give you a heads up.........


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## kevozz (Jan 21, 2011)

Thanks for all the suggestions.  I'm pretty sure it's a 2/12.  They used architectural shingles and it leaks like crazy.


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