# Building my own .50cal Flintlock.



## Torre87 (Mar 15, 2011)

Anyone have any opinions or suggestions? I really love the Hawkens and the Kentucky long rifle and was told take building one would be better than just buying one.


----------



## flyfisher76544 (Mar 15, 2011)

That really depends on you. I would imagine that most folks would be extremely proud of a rifle they had built themselves. If I had the time I would definately try it myself. You have an idea on any particular rifle or kit? In the white or completely doing everything yourself?
   When I finally try it myself, I will probably start with one that is In the white. When you start your build, post up a tutorial here so we can see how it goes!!


----------



## 7Mag Hunter (Mar 22, 2011)

I built 2 CVA Hawken kits 20+ yrs ago...Not really that hard if you
have a moderate amount of manual dexterity and patience.....
And time......mostly time and a good place to work...

I suggest you have the barrel blued professionally by a quality
gunsmith to improve overall appearance and decrease outside
barrel rust in the future....Take your time carving/trimming the
hardware openings in the stock....

I used 20+ coats of finger rubbed Tru oil on the sanded stock
with at least 24 hrs between coats and 0000 steel wool polish
between coats...Do not use cloth as you may pick up lint in the 
finish.....Tru oil darkens slightly with added coats, so no stain is
necessary...Just add more coats till you get the color you want....
The first 3-4 coats will still appear clear, but keep adding coats
till you get the color you like...

My barrel still looks good today and the stock, sealed with Tru oil
has remained waterproof and shiny thru many hunting seasons.....
Post before, during and after pics....


----------



## Supercracker (Mar 23, 2011)

I just finished my first build a few months ago. If you're not trying to get fancy and do a bunch of carving or something it's not hard. 

go for it


----------



## Redbow (Mar 23, 2011)

Wish I had done that many years ago now. A friend of mine who is now deceased used to build the old Kentucky style flintlocks and use curly maple for the gunstocks. The rifles shot very well and were beautiful.


----------



## Torre87 (Apr 8, 2011)

I like the 18th Century "Kentucky" Flintlock , and the Hawkens by Thompson Center. Anyone ever use this kit here?

http://www.sportsmansguide.com/net/cb/50-cal-kentucky-rifle-kit.aspx?a=394783


----------



## 7Mag Hunter (Apr 8, 2011)

Torre87 said:


> I like the 18th Century "Kentucky" Flintlock , and the Hawkens by Thompson Center. Anyone ever use this kit here?
> 
> http://www.sportsmansguide.com/net/cb/50-cal-kentucky-rifle-kit.aspx?a=394783




Ether will look fantastic when you finish !!!!!
You should be ready for Muzzleloader season this year !!!!!


----------



## Ben Athens (Apr 8, 2011)

Another good place to find kits is Sitting Fox muzzle loaders.


----------



## Nicodemus (Apr 8, 2011)

Both rifles are nice. The Can Tu Kee is more graceful, and generally longer in length. The Hawken is more sturdy built, and is a little easier to clean, due to the hooked breech.

Here`s another place you might want to look.

www.trackofthewolf.com


----------



## fourwinds (Apr 8, 2011)

Don't forget the Lyman Great Plains Rifle kit.


----------



## SASS249 (Apr 8, 2011)

I think I would advise staying away from the traditions kit.  It will build a nice usable rifle, but I doubt you will ever be satisfied with that two piece stock.  I actually built a similar kit as my first rifle.  It shot great but I just could not get past that stock.  I eventually bought another stock and fitted all the pieces to it.  

I have to second the lyman great plains as a good alternative.  You can build a very authentic and good looking rifle using that kit.


----------



## flyfisher76544 (Apr 9, 2011)

X3 on the Lyman. That 2 piece stock is just a headache waiting to happen.


----------



## Torre87 (Apr 9, 2011)

Anyone know where to get the Lyman GP kit, thats decent priced legit?


----------



## fishdog (Apr 13, 2011)

*GP kit*

You should be able to get one from Track of the Wolf, or Dixie Gun works. The first kit I built was a kit from Dixie. I had an old friend who owned a shop in Stone Mountian that coached me along. Several years ago I started building a rifle from a blank and got about 75% complete and messed up on the band saw....now I have a ruined stock and I have to start over. Either one of the places I mentioned have kits for all levels, most will cost a little more then the kit you mentioned, the difference will be when you get done with the kit you spend a little more on you will have a much nicer gun. There are alot of different ways to finish a rifle, if you take your time and ask questions you can do a nice job. Have fun with it.


----------



## flyfisher76544 (Apr 15, 2011)

Midsouth Shooters supply has the best prices I have seen on the Lyman lines. On a .50 or .54 right hand percusion it is $371 and a flinter is $401 for the kits. I hope this helps ya!!!

http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.c...ADING&dept2=RIFLE&dept3=&dept4=&vendors=LYMAN


----------



## CraigS1001 (Apr 30, 2011)

Don't you just hate it when a band saw twists?  I was shortening a stock once and the blade I guess was a little loose and it twisted almost 1/4" on the back side of the cut. I was sick as this was a friends walnut stock from a Henry lever rifle.



fishdog said:


> You should be able to get one from Track of the Wolf, or Dixie Gun works. The first kit I built was a kit from Dixie. I had an old friend who owned a shop in Stone Mountian that coached me along. Several years ago I started building a rifle from a blank and got about 75% complete and messed up on the band saw....now I have a ruined stock and I have to start over. Either one of the places I mentioned have kits for all levels, most will cost a little more then the kit you mentioned, the difference will be when you get done with the kit you spend a little more on you will have a much nicer gun. There are alot of different ways to finish a rifle, if you take your time and ask questions you can do a nice job. Have fun with it.


----------



## mmarkey (Jul 19, 2011)

If you're looking at Hawkin style you must want percussion. Here is a link to TOW  http://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartList.aspx?catID=13&subID=80&styleID=315
Be sure to check around in their kits lots of styles available. They also have quite a bunch of custom rifles and factory rifles available as well. The parts they offer are very good quality and the rest is up to you. 

I build Pennsylvania style long rifles in flintlock only. Just take your time and be patient. For your first project I'd recommend a preformed stock, still a lot of work involved but some of the tricky parts of planning the architecture and placement of lock and trigger and the tougher inlets are already done.

Good luck and have fun with the build.


----------



## Torre87 (Jul 19, 2011)

I am looking for a FLINTLOCK model. like this one here:

http://www.cabelas.com/traditional-...aditional-hawken-flintlock-rifle-hand-1.shtml


----------



## Flintrock (Jul 20, 2011)

The lock is a very critical part of a flintlock. It is not forgiving at all . There are not many good quality flintlocks out there and I do not think you would be happy with that one in the long run and the resale value would take a big hit.
.
How much are you willing to spend ? You can get a competition quality flintlock kit from Tip Curtis Frontier Shop with all quality parts and 95 percent completed .
I pasted this from the NMLRA website.
.
rifle kits - $725.00  . Over 130 patterns to choose from. P.O. Box 203, Cross Plains, TN 37049, (615) 654-4445. 

For More Information Email: tipcurtis@bellsouth.net 

Hope this helps


----------



## mmarkey (Jul 20, 2011)

You may have a little trouble getting a good quality kit with a Hawkin style flintlock in half stock, I think you'll find most are percussion. 

I don't know anything about Tip Curtis, apparently he doesn't have a website or a catalog, just a shop in Tennessee, maybe he has what you want, it won't hurt to call him.

With the rifle you want to build you need to decide whether you want to shoot round ball or bullets (miniball)
Round ball requires a slower twist 1-48 or slower. A lot of Hawkin style barrels are 1-32 which is for bullets. I use a 1-66 twist for a patched round ball. Try to avoid the Italian made flintlocks if you can I've heard a lot of problems with bad springs and poor sparking frizzens. If you go flintlock be sure to use real black powder, flintlocks don't work well with synthetics.


----------



## Supercracker (Jul 20, 2011)

Look here.

http://www.trackofthewolf.com/index.aspx

They have everything imaginable for traditional muzzleloading. They have kits ranging from a box of parts and chunk of wood to a 90% complete gun. Not cheap, but you get what you pay for. Don't skimp on a flintlock, there's not a lot of in between. It will either work good or not at all.


----------



## mmarkey (Jul 20, 2011)

Torre87 

I just found this old thread from another board that gives a lot of information. It goes into a lot of detail about different providers kits in general. An interesting read.

http://www.traditionalmuzzleloadingassociation.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=12493&hilit=Tip+Curtis


----------



## mmarkey (Jul 21, 2011)

Torre87
I just came across another thread that specifically covers flintlock in Hawken style rifles. It's very interesting and may affect your decision. Good luck, Michael.

http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=17324.0


----------

