# Very Frustrated and Need Some Serious Help



## Leather Lung (Sep 16, 2011)

About 2 months ago, I bought a brand new Kimber Pro CDP II.  I am new to the 1911 frame and know very little about it so I'll try to state the issue I'm having as well as attach a couple of pictures and see if someone can point me in the right direction...

On the side of the hammer, at the top, there is some 'discoloring' taking place.  I have rubbed it down with Hoppe's No. 9 Gun oil and bore solvent.  It still hasn't come off.

Next, on the end of the barrel, (only noticable when the slide is in the locked position) is the same discoloring that is on the hammer.  It almost looks like the beginning of rust.  

Finally, on the top of the slide, it almost seems as if there are spots of the same thing that has formed on the hammer and barrel.  These are spots about the size of 2 or 3 pencil heads.  

Again, this gun is 2 months old and has NEVER been in, near, or around water.  However, it does ride in the truck with me on a daily basis.  It's only been to one range outing so far.  I clean it once a week or once every two weeks, depending on the need.  I keep a light oil on the gun (Hoppe's No. 9) but it doesn't stay too 'wet'.  I've been told the 1911 is not designed to be a 'wet' gun.  

Can someone please point me in the right direction on how to remove what's there and keep it from happening again?  I love this gun but this is getting really frustrating.

I'll also include a picture of the gun with a new set of grips I put on this week...

Thanks for all your help...


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## scottypp (Sep 16, 2011)

that does look odd...on the barrel....and i am sure it could be blasted off,, but i would call or e mail Kimber.. i have a TLE ,, that had some issues.. and cust service was not too bad.. they may agree to do a return label.. which means you can take it directly to a UPS hub and return it,, then they ship it right back to you.. no need to go thru an FFL.. 

good luck!


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## Leather Lung (Sep 16, 2011)

I guess what gets me is the fact that only 57 rounds have been put down the pipe.  I've never owned a SS handgun before, but this sure doesn't seem right.  

Does anyone have a suggestion of something to clean it with that may take the discoloration off?

Thanks!


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## GAnaturalist (Sep 16, 2011)

On the brushed stainless parts, you can use fine steel wool. 

Your gun is in and around water all the time, its in the air, especially in this part of the country, and loves to condense on steel, and oxidize after you handle it (salt). Hoppes is not really going to be a barrier for too long. They do make products that are more for rust protection/storage. So many companies, but I think the better one is Sentry Solutions products. I talked with the owner during the Blade Show, nice guy, and all the products I have used are great. 

I have a Kimber too, but I got it fully hard chromed.


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## Gunplumber Mike (Sep 16, 2011)

If you are sending a firearm to an Federally licensed dealer, gunsmith or manufacturer you don't need a "return label" to authorize your shipment.  You can use the Post Office for a long gun but must use a commercial carrier for a handgun.


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## Speedemon (Sep 16, 2011)

Flitz polish is the best product I have found for SS pistols. It and a Q tip will clean the black off the forward end of a pistol cylinder and make it like new. I would try it on the barrel then the hammer of your gun. If it did not clean it up call Kimber. I have returned two 45's for Night sight replacement. Both were no problem and pretty quick.


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## Cool (Sep 17, 2011)

the heating and cooling of temp in your truck is causing condensation to form on your gun


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## Ossahatchee (Sep 28, 2011)

Your barrel is probally a carbon steel barrel, not stainless steel, check with kimber. Probally a heavy oil would help.good luck.


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## Wiskey_33 (Sep 29, 2011)

I had a Pro Carry II that had the same problems.

I'd avoid using steel wool. There are better products out there, like ScotchBrite pads.

I'd hit it lightly with a pad and then oil it up real well with Eezox or something similar.


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## Clarke123 (Sep 29, 2011)

Wiskey_33 said:


> I had a Pro Carry II that had the same problems.
> 
> I'd avoid using steel wool. There are better products out there, like ScotchBrite pads.
> 
> I'd hit it lightly with a pad and then oil it up real well with Eezox or something similar.



Read up on frontier history: Most "Mountain Men" left their rifles on two pegs above the door OUTSIDE their cabins.
Why? 

ANY firearm that is subjected to cold then heat, then cold WILL form condensation (inside and out) and WILL RUST, EVEN STAINLESS STEEL!

Even when you go out into the field on a cold day, when you bring your rifle / shotgun / pistol inside let it sit a few minutes and look closely at it.
You will probably see condensation already starting to form almost immediatly (just like your glasses do!).  This condensation is not only on the outside, but inside as well! 

Eezox has tested to provide the best protection in those types of environments. GOOGLE "Eezox" and read the results: Drys "Tack-Free" and not oily, protects against rust and corrosion.  However, like any treatment, a periodic touch-up is your best insurance against problems.

Good Luck and Be Safe!


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## 7Mag Hunter (Oct 2, 2011)

Leather Lung said:


> I guess what gets me is the fact that only 57 rounds have been put down the pipe.  I've never owned a SS handgun before, but this sure doesn't seem right.
> 
> Does anyone have a suggestion of something to clean it with that may take the discoloration off?
> 
> Thanks!



Try a wet paste of Barkeepers friend...It is a powdered
cleaner specifically made for stainless steel.....I put 2-3tsp
in a small bowl and add a few drops of water till I get a
wet paste and use a cotton rag to clean my SS Smith 686..
No chance at all to scratch or mar the surface....


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## Jester896 (Oct 5, 2011)

sorry about your problem...those grips would look good on my Ultra Raptor...would you share the source?


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## RdKill (Oct 10, 2011)

I love 1911s..I rarely carry anything else.  I have 5 of them in my collection.  My high end 1911s (Colt, Sig, Dan Wesson, and a 1943 Remington Rand) are not "truck guns".  I suggest purchasing a low end used 1911 for leaving in the truck.  Even the low end models like High Standard for example (my choice for "truck gun") are built to spec and are extremely reliable.  And a spot or two or even a scratch really won't get your feathers ruffled.  You won't be nearly as distraught when your truck gets robbed either.


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## Wiskey_33 (Oct 10, 2011)

> I've been told the 1911 is not designed to be a 'wet' gun.



While I've never run mine "wet", I always keep grease/oil where it needs to be, inside and out.


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## ASH556 (Oct 10, 2011)

Not to be captain obvious, but you're sure you're using Hoppes 9 oil and not solvent, right?  

Wiskey_33 is right, 1911's need grease in the rails (white lithium).  

I have found, though, that using scotchbrite pats will leave visible scratches, whereas a fine steel wool (4/0 or better) will take off the tarnish without leaving visible scratches.  Put a few drops of oil on the steel wool and work in a small circular motion.  Should clean right off.

Barring that, call Kimber.  They have pretty good customer service.


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## Leather Lung (Oct 18, 2011)

I think I've got it solved...

I went with the Flitz polish and a simple clean cloth and everything came off fine.  The Flitz has restored the gun to showroom quality...

Thanks to everyone for the advice.  I'm actually saving this thread in case I run into any other issues...

Thanks again,
LL


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## Leather Lung (Oct 18, 2011)

Jester896 said:


> sorry about your problem...those grips would look good on my Ultra Raptor...would you share the source?





No problem at all...sorry, I just saw your question.

I bought them from www.doggrips.com  Great customer service and very fast and friendly.  Just give Mel a call.  I had mine made and on the gun in 10 days.  By far the most reasonably priced snake skin grips I've found...


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## 7mmstw (Oct 21, 2011)

your barrel is chrome moly not ss along with that hammer.


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## dawg2 (Oct 21, 2011)

Clarke123 said:


> Read up on frontier history: Most "Mountain Men" left their rifles on two pegs above the door OUTSIDE their cabins.
> Why?
> 
> ANY firearm that is subjected to cold then heat, then cold WILL form condensation (inside and out) and WILL RUST, EVEN STAINLESS STEEL!



I am no mountain man, but when I hunt I leave my rifle outside (in truck) so when I hit the woods I have no condensation nor fogged up scope.

As far as the rust spots, it is true that even stainless steel will rust.  It just won't rust as much as other steel.


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## 1022 (Oct 22, 2011)

dawg2 said:


> I am no mountain man, but when I hunt I leave my rifle outside (in truck) so when I hit the woods I have no condensation nor fogged up scope.
> 
> As far as the rust spots, it is true that even stainless steel will rust.  It just won't rust as much as other steel.



This x2 I leave mine in the truck as well,rifle and pistol.I live in the mountains does that make me a mountain man?


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