# Help with arrows



## Just BB (Feb 22, 2007)

Hey Folks, So glad that we have this forum now. I tried to go to other traditional sites but nver felt at home. 

My questions. I purchased and shot a impala recurve last year at 55#. I had plenty of old aluminum 2413 that I cut off and fletched. I never felt they flew the way they should.
I read the books on tuning and cut off little pieces at a time until I found the best flight I could. Is it just the size of the shaft I'm using or my technique. The arrow seems to have an exaggerated wobble from left to right when flying.


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## Al33 (Feb 22, 2007)

Well, this can be caused by a number of things.  Your release may be one of them. Do you shoot split fingers or three under? Do you shoot tabs or gloves?

I shoot split finger with tabs and sometimes gloves. I have found if once I reach anchor or as I am approaching anchor I release the tention on the index finger it really helps with the flight. It is my bottom two fingers that are holding the string just before release.

Your fletchings may also be hitting the shelf or strike plate. Many bows, especially longbows, have the striker plate and shelf material as one piece. I like them separate so there is clearance in the corner of the riser where a hen feather can pass through it. Many do not think this matters, and maybe it doesn't for some, but it does for me.

Your arrow nocks may be too tight on the string. I do not like the snap on type nocks for this very reason. I like my arrow nocks to fit snug but not tight. A good test is to but an arrow on your string and see if it will stay on the sting hanging by the nock. If you can barely tap the end of the nock and cause the arrow to fall you should be just about perfect.

Check these things first and see if any of them help. If not, we will look at other possible causes.


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## ed'sboy (Feb 22, 2007)

Here are a couple of sites that might help:

http://domino.htcomp.net/bhn/Column...ca196c7c196f33ef862565a20066391f?OpenDocument

http://www.eastonarchery.com/products.asp?show=chartsSelectors


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## Just BB (Feb 22, 2007)

Al33 said:


> Well, this can be caused by a number of things.  Your release .....
> 
> I could see where you may have found a few. I shoot split finger with a tab. Nocks are too tight if going with your example. Would a light sanding with find grit paper be okay to open them up?
> 
> ...


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## maconducks (Feb 22, 2007)

the sanding is the way to loosen the nock.  I use a toenail file I stole from my wife.  I had the same problem when I got heavier limbs.  I was plucking the string at the release and it caused the side to side, you should be able to hear the shaft strike the riser if you are doing this.


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## Al33 (Feb 22, 2007)

Just BB said:


> Would a light sanding with find grit paper be okay to open them up?


I have used a knife to trim some of them then sandpaper, file, or whatever. You can also use Nirk Nocks.

Good links ed'sboy.


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## Just BB (Mar 5, 2007)

After reading the article on spine, I think I'm more confused.  Going by his formulas. I have a 50#@28" recurve. I'm about 6'3" wear a long jacket, use a 125 grain broadhead. I should be shooting 55#@30". I need to be shooting 2013,2016 or 2018. Going to the other site (easton) I should be shooting 2413's which I am. If anyone can figure this out, let me know.


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## ed'sboy (Mar 5, 2007)

BB, I know what you're talking about. While seemingly filled with info I also get differing results. I fortunately have great bowyers at Shulers here in Gainesville that told me what to use. It is completely different than either of the articles/charts say. Are there any archery shops near you that you have confidence in?


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## fflintlock (Mar 5, 2007)

If I remember right, the first two numbers for aluim. arrows , is the thickness of the material, I'd say your shooting too heavy a spined shaft, I'd also have to say try 2117 or the 2018, with your 125 grn. points.  You should be able to go to a sporting good shop and buy just a couple to try them out.
 I sometimes shoot 2016 in my 42# recurve, they fly great. 
You could use the shafts you have and use a heavier point on them, that will take some of the spine out of a stiff shaft. 
 In other words, the longer the shaft and the heavier the point, the weaker the shaft spine will be.
 Maybe try a heavier point with the shafts you have first, there cheap and you'll know in a few moments.
 I still think your shafts are way to stiff for your bow.
There's alot of folks on here who will help stear you in the right direction, I'm kinda rust at this, it's been awhile 
Jerald


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## Slingblade (Mar 5, 2007)

The first two digits are the shaft diameter in 64ths, the last two digits are thickness in 1000ths of an inch.  Most of the spine charts wind up being too stiff for trad bows, the only thing that has ever worked for me was to go to a shop that had various size shafts and shoot them until I found the one my particular bow shot the best for me and my release.


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## fflintlock (Mar 5, 2007)

Thank you for straighting me out on that, I had it backwards. I told ya'll I was a bit rusty 
Jerald


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## FVR (Mar 5, 2007)

You can't go wrong with 2117 arrows.  I had a doz. that I shot out of glass bows ranging from 45 to 60 pounds.  They are the all around, shoot out of any bow arrow.


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