# 5hp Briggs and Stratton, no spark



## GA native (Aug 25, 2017)

I recently acquired a very old Snapper tiller, with a 5hp Briggs motor. This thing sat out in the weather for 8 years, before it came home with me. The engine rotated, and had compression, so I thought it worth the risk.

I got the rust out of the tank, rebuilt the carb, changed the motor oil... changed the spark plug, but I have no spark.

I think the coil runs with points and condensor. But I don't know for sure. In the pics you can see a green and red wire running into the engine behind the flywheel. The green wire plugs into the coil, the red wire is about three feet long, and runs to nothing. It was just wrapped around the throttle cable when I received the tiller. I've tried the spark test with the red wire grounded to the frame, and with the wire hanging ungrounded, and still no joy.

So before I condemn the coil, I need to know what the red wire does. Can you help a brother out?


----------



## NE GA Pappy (Aug 25, 2017)

it goes to the points.  You will have to pull the flywheel, remove the aluminum points cover, and replace the points.  

I would change it over to magnetron ignition while I was at it. That is an electronic point replacement for the old point ignition system.


----------



## WayneB (Aug 25, 2017)

NE GA Pappy said:


> it goes to the points.  You will have to pull the flywheel, remove the aluminum points cover, and replace the points.
> 
> I would change it over to magnetron ignition while I was at it. That is an electronic point replacement for the old point ignition system.



this^^


----------



## WayneB (Aug 25, 2017)

the coil is installed backwards also..


----------



## GA native (Aug 25, 2017)

Well shoot, that was easy. 

Already found the drop in solid state coil online. I'll hit the mower shop tomorrow, and see if they got one on the shelf.

I just wanted to make sure of that stray red wire. The best I can figure, is it went to a kill switch.


----------



## 3ringer (Aug 26, 2017)

You have to sand off all that rust. Take a sheet of smooth sandpaper and sand off the rust on the flywheel. Remove the coil and sand off the rust where it butts up to the flywheel. Remount the coil and use a sheet of paper to set the clearance for the coil. Try this before messing with the points . Although replacing points with an electronic ignition is a good idea.


----------



## rjcruiser (Aug 26, 2017)

I've always used a business card to set the spacing on a coil.


----------



## NE GA Pappy (Aug 26, 2017)

push the crankshaft hard toward the coil while you are setting the clearance. Some of those engines have the bearing worn, and the crankshaft can move 10 or 15 thousands.  If it is all the way away from the coil when you set it, it can hit the coil when it is running.


----------



## NE GA Pappy (Aug 26, 2017)

I typically use a matchbook cover to set them, but a business card will work.  Regular notebook paper is too thin


----------



## GA native (Aug 31, 2017)

Well... I have spark now. But the only way it will run is if I pour gas down the throttle body. And at that, it just pops and sputters for a few seconds.

So I double checked everything. I pulled the carb, and went ahead and replaced it with a spiffy new one. I had my doubts about all of that JB weld all over the old one.

Bolted on the new carb, got it as tight as I could to the intake. Followed directions and screwed the needle valve all the way in. Then screwed it out 1 1/2 turns. And she still does little more than pop and sputter with gas dumped down the throttle body.

So I'm at a loss here. It seems that the carb just isn't pulling gas in.


----------



## BornNRaised (Aug 31, 2017)

How much psi does the cylinder have?


----------



## jimbo4116 (Aug 31, 2017)

https://www.harborfreight.com/engin...orizontal-shaft-gas-engine-epacarb-69727.html


----------



## GA native (Aug 31, 2017)

The closest I have to a compression tester is my thumb on the spark plug hole. And as far as that goes, compression seems good. The engine sucks my thumb in on the downstroke. And pushes it out on the upstroke.

I'll have to locate one, because that is a valid question.


----------



## Rick Alexander (Aug 31, 2017)

*This*



jimbo4116 said:


> https://www.harborfreight.com/engin...orizontal-shaft-gas-engine-epacarb-69727.html



You can get these things pretty much all the time for 99 bucks.  Get the warrantee with it however as they don't seem to last all that great.  One tip is to make sure you turn the gas off after use - that will make them last for several years.  Seem to run pretty strong on tillers - I've got two of them right now on my tillers.  Can't hardly buy a carb for 99 bucks now days.


----------



## GA native (Aug 31, 2017)

I had a Chinese motorcycle once. I'm not interested in a Chinese engine from Harbor Freight. 

Might put a Honda on it, but I haven't given up on this old Briggs yet.


----------



## GA native (Aug 31, 2017)

I'm wondering if the timing is off with the new coil.


----------



## GA native (Aug 31, 2017)

*Things that make you go, D'oh!*

It was a timing issue. I pulled the flywheel off, and found a sheared key. I went ahead and pulled the points and condensor out, man those things were nasty and floating in water. I buttoned everything up, and reinstalled the flywheel with the new key provided with the coil. She fired right up and ran about 15 seconds. 
???
The new key sheared because I forgot to install the washer between the flywheel and the starter clutch...

I hope Ace carries them.


----------



## georgia357 (Sep 1, 2017)

Good to hear, thanks for the update.


----------



## GA native (Sep 2, 2017)

Briggs and Stratton 5hp for sale. 
New carb
New coil

Needs crankshaft turned, new bearings, new pushrod, cylinder honed, new rings, new piston, new pushrod. Might as well grind the valves while you're at it.

Make offer. Would make a great boat anchor.


----------



## chadf (Sep 12, 2017)

GA native said:


> Briggs and Stratton 5hp for sale.
> New carb
> New coil
> 
> ...



What happened ?
No oil ?


----------



## GA native (Sep 12, 2017)

chadf said:


> What happened ?
> No oil ?



Plenty of oil. The engine was just shot. I got her all back together, primed the carb with some gas, and after a few pulls, she cranked. Ran for less than ten seconds then made a few loud knocks and stalled out. Shoot, you could barely pull the cord. I didn't bother opening up the engine. 

I don't know much about engines, but I know this one is all shot out.

So the tiller goes in the back of the shed for now. And I'm double digging the beds this weekend. I will circle back around to this project over the winter. Maybe splurge on a new Honda. Or more likely just locate a _running_ used Briggs or Tecumseh.


----------



## bassboy1 (Sep 13, 2017)

GA native said:


> Plenty of oil. The engine was just shot. I got her all back together, primed the carb with some gas, and after a few pulls, she cranked. Ran for less than ten seconds then made a few loud knocks and stalled out. Shoot, you could barely pull the cord. I didn't bother opening up the engine.
> 
> I don't know much about engines, but I know this one is all shot out.
> 
> So the tiller goes in the back of the shed for now. And I'm double digging the beds this weekend. I will circle back around to this project over the winter. Maybe splurge on a new Honda. Or more likely just locate a _running_ used Briggs or Tecumseh.



Those Harbor Freight engines are pretty much clones of an older Honda, and I'm told they really aren't bad, especially for the cost.


----------



## GA native (Sep 13, 2017)

I had a Lifan motorcycle, for less than a year. The engine was supposed to be a clone of Honda. Sure didn't run like a Honda...

There is a reason the Chinese clone is a third of the price of the real thing. You get what you pay for. And parts are a recreational impossibility to acquire.


----------



## Rick Alexander (Sep 13, 2017)

*I've run several*

of those Harbor Freight engines on tillers.  If you remember to turn off the gas every time and keep gas in them to prevent too much ethanol moisture from forming they will last several years.  Works just fine.  I do have to bypass the low oil cutoff because the tiller tips too much sometimes and shuts it off but otherwise they work quite well.  They run them on sale for $100 often - can't buy a carb now days for that.  Get the warrantee - just go get another one when it dies.  I just can't see the problem.


----------

