# Sharpening broadheads



## hambone76

I’d like to see how many others have success trying this and perhaps @kmckinnie can make this a sticky if it seems to be helpful.  
A sharp broadhead is just another piece of the puzzle. 

I’ve been doing some reading about the different ways that folks put the finishing touches on their broadheads and I decided to give it a try.
I have already gotten my heads fairly sharp with a Lansky sharpener already, but I wasn’t quite satisfied with them as they were.
I purchased some fine grit sandpaper, rolled a small piece up into a roll about the diameter of a sharpie marker and then drug it across the edges with just enough pressure to flatten the paper out against the broadhead’s edge a little.
This seems to make the paper give a little and contour the blades precisely, giving me a hair-popping edge. There’s no guesswork to the angle as the pressure gets it all in line.


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## JB in GA

Neat trick. Are you basically using the roll like a strop and allowing it to deform to fit the contour?


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## bowhunterdavid

Good tip.


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## hambone76

JB in GA said:


> Neat trick. Are you basically using the roll like a strop and allowing it to deform to fit the contour?


Thanks. Yessir, that is what I was doing.
It seems to work better if the roll is several layers thick so that it remains somewhat rigid and doesn’t allow the paper to completely flatten out, crease or kink. The more contact it makes the better.


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## rnfarley

That's a good idea!


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## hambone76

I finished the edge off with a leather strop afterwards and can feel a considerable difference. I need to make a handle for the broadheads to thread into so I can keep my fingers away from the edges. 
I have some antler pieces and a spare insert lying around here somewhere.


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## JB in GA

I don’t have any Simmon’s, but have had luck for the final step using the triangle rod from my Spyderco Sharpmaker on the heads I do have - using it by hand not in the Sharpmaker:


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## rnfarley

hambone76 said:


> I finished the edge off with a leather strop afterwards and can feel a considerable difference. I need to make a handle for the broadheads to thread into so I can keep my fingers away from the edges.
> I have some antler pieces and a spare insert lying around here somewhere.



I've got an old broken arrow that I use that works pretty good... just break more arrows.


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## Todd Cook

I'm a file sharp guy. I believe it to be superior for broadheads but that's a different conversation. BUT.......  I also do woodcarving and use wet/dry paper and a strop with compound to sharpen my chisels. It's crazy how sharp they'll get if they have the right steel in them.


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## rnfarley

Todd Cook said:


> I'm a file sharp guy. I believe it to be superior for broadheads but that's a different conversation. BUT.......  I also do woodcarving and use wet/dry paper and a strop with compound to sharpen my chisels. It's crazy how sharp they'll get if they have the right steel in them.



How different? Care to give the quick version of preferring file sharp? Just a speed/efficacy ratio thing?


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## kmckinnie

I’ve used the  ceramic round rods before. The ones for sharping a knife. Seemed to work fine.


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## hambone76

Todd Cook said:


> I'm a file sharp guy. I believe it to be superior for broadheads but that's a different conversation. BUT.......  I also do woodcarving and use wet/dry paper and a strop with compound to sharpen my chisels. It's crazy how sharp they'll get if they have the right steel in them.


It’s funny you mentioned that, my diamond file just arrived in the mail today. I’m going to use it on my Razorheads tonight.


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## Todd Cook

rnfarley said:


> How different? Care to give the quick version of preferring file sharp? Just a speed/efficacy ratio thing?



I'll try not to ramble too much It all depends on the steel. Knives and especially chisels are usually made with MUCH better steel than broadheads. I love grizzlies, zwickies, magnus, etc. Wonderful heads that kill stuff very dead. But they are soft compared to knives. 

First, when I say file sharp, I mean SHARP! Hair shaving thumbnail grabbing sharp. But if you look at the edge under magnification its micro serated by the file. The edge is very sharp and very durable. You can shoot it through a deer and it's still sharp. A very finely honed edge will often deform hitting a rib or a muddy pig before it gets to the vitals- UNLESS the broadhead is made of very good steel. Thats where the really high dollar(ashby, etc) heads really shine. 

If the steel is good and hard enough that finely honed edge will survive. But for the heads that most of us use, a properly file sharpened head is a more efficient killer, in my opinion.


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## rnfarley

This is great, I see what you mean, and appreciate the response!


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## strothershwacker

I use the rough side of my leather belt after the file, or even the uncoated ring on the bottom of a ceramic coffee cup. Seen a guy down south finish a head off with the top edge of his truck window. Whatever works!


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## sportsman94

I use a double sided diamond sharpening stone fine then extra fine, then hit it with a ceramic, then a strop with compound, then over some denim to put the final hone. Will run them over a tshirt sometimes to touch them up. Im new to the world of sharpening, but I got some single bevels hair popping sharp last night with this method.


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## GregoryB.

I can testify to a file sharpened edge cutting quickly and cleanly. Was sharpening a brush axe yesterday when my gloved hand ran over the edge. Cut through the heavy leather all the way to the knuckle.


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## JB in GA

You fellows getting it done with just a file, are you saying that just that edge will cut hair off your arm? If I could get that with just a file I would be pleased. If you could, please give me your top thing not to do when using a file. Perhaps I am too heavy handed or need better files?


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## Todd Cook




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## Todd Cook

You need a good file and a light touch. See the top picture? This is where most people get frustrated with sharpening. This head is sharp on the right side. See the wire edge(burr) on the left side? Drag that edge backward through a piece of soft pine, or VERY gently give it a couple of licks with the file. When the wire edge breaks off, you're done. Lots of people at that point try to keep fine tuning it and make it duller, rounding over the edge. Believe me that head in the middle will do all you need it to.


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## JB in GA

Thanks Todd. What I notice immediately is that your Ace has much more of an established primary bevel than my Zwickey’s. I need to back up and get that longer bevel going.


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## Todd Cook

Yeah the factory grind needs some help on some heads. I usually shoot grizzlies and always adjust the bevel a little bit.


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## sawtooth

I use a file and nothing else. No fancy systems or methods or a boxfull of assorted tools.  Just an 8” mill file. 

This topic is a can of worms and is heavily debated on all archery forums.  

Look at it this way. Different tools were designed to do different jobs. Would you shave your face with a camp hatchet? Would you chop firewood with a filet knife or carve a turkey with a machete? Of course not. Your broadheads are tools. Their intended purpose is to make two holes and cut everything between those two holes. Right? I hear guys talking about getting their heads “ shaving sharp” or “ scalpel sharp”. Congratulations!!! Guess what? Your edge is too thin and will curl as soon as it passes anything substantial. Because the fact is- to get an edge THAT sharp it also has to be thin. I have never shaved an animal with my broadheads. But I HAVE blown two holes in them like they weren’t even standing there- with wood arrows too. Todd’s examples in the posts above are great advice. A file alone creates a sturdy edge that is plenty sharp to get the job done. Get yourself a file, learn how to use it. Drag the edge of your broadhead across your fingernail- if it grabs, put it in your quiver and work on the next one. Don’t get frustrated if you can’t get your heads to cut hair just by touching it. Put an edge on your heads that will allow it to do the job it was meant to do- poke two holes.


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## JB in GA

Thanks guys, good info. ?


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## Hillbilly stalker

I posted this picture in another thread earlier, but this little diamond file can be found at Home Depot or Lowe’s for around $5. It’s designed for sharpening pruners or clippers,  it it works great on broadheads. It is not made for hogging off huge amounts of metal,  but for only straightening out and sharpening an established edge. They are small enough to fit in your quiver pouch and weigh nothing. It’s a lot easier to control them than a 8-12 inch file. Try one on a inexpensive junk knife and you will be sold. It’s aggressive enough to change the edge profile if that’s what you want to do. You can sharpen fixed blade, replaceable blade and expandable if you wish.


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## Allen Oliver

I use a file on my woodsman heads and it the best method for me. I also use a diamond file just to get the burr off. On my Grizzly heads I use diamond stones from Harbour Freight and my KME sharpener tool.


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## hambone76

I put a file on some of my Razorheads and Magnus II’s. Wow! You fellas aren’t joking! My wood arrows are ready to do some work. 
Y’alls advice and input has really shortened the learning curve! Thanks!


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## strothershwacker

sawtooth said:


> I use a file and nothing else. No fancy systems or methods or a boxfull of assorted tools.  Just an 8” mill file.
> 
> This topic is a can of worms and is heavily debated on all archery forums.
> 
> Look at it this way. Different tools were designed to do different jobs. Would you shave your face with a camp hatchet? Would you chop firewood with a filet knife or carve a turkey with a machete? Of course not. Your broadheads are tools. Their intended purpose is to make two holes and cut everything between those two holes. Right? I hear guys talking about getting their heads “ shaving sharp” or “ scalpel sharp”. Congratulations!!! Guess what? Your edge is too thin and will curl as soon as it passes anything substantial. Because the fact is- to get an edge THAT sharp it also has to be thin. I have never shaved an animal with my broadheads. But I HAVE blown two holes in them like they weren’t even standing there- with wood arrows too. Todd’s examples in the posts above are great advice. A file alone creates a sturdy edge that is plenty sharp to get the job done. Get yourself a file, learn how to use it. Drag the edge of your broadhead across your fingernail- if it grabs, put it in your quiver and work on the next one. Don’t get frustrated if you can’t get your heads to cut hair just by touching it. Put an edge on your heads that will allow it to do the job it was meant to do- poke two holes.


 this is coming from a guy that's kilt more pigs than Hormel. ?


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## JB in GA

Played around with files last night. Using mainly a 6” Nicholson mill file on some Eskilites. It might be due to being a bit heavy-handed on my part, but for me at least it seems the stropping after the filing is a good idea to pull the edge out straight. I definitely had more edge curl on one side; felt like a rolled over hook with my fingernail.


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## JB in GA

Did a little more file sharpening at lunch today. I am thinking I should have started with these rather than Zwickey’s because after just a few light strokes I was good to go:


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## hambone76

JB in GA said:


> Did a little more file sharpening at lunch today. I am thinking I should have started with these rather than Zwickey’s because after just a few light strokes I was good to go:
> 
> View attachment 1035014


Good deal. I sharpened one of my Razorheads the other night and then put an edge on the backs of the blades so that they can cut on their way out as well. That bleeder blade isn’t the correct one if I recall, but all of the Razorheads that I got had them installed already, they’re locked in solid and they fit very well. They look like Magnus bleeder blades to me.


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## JB in GA

hambone76 said:


> Good deal. I sharpened one of my Razorheads the other night and then put an edge on the backs of the blades so that they can cut on their way out as well. That bleeder blade isn’t the correct one if I recall, but all of the Razorheads that I got had them installed already, they’re locked in solid and they fit very well. They look like Magnus bleeder blades to me.
> View attachment 1035030



Nice work on the back edge!
I have a couple left with bleeders:


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## trial&error

I use a piece of scrap leather glued to a dowel to strop curved blades. It may help on those.


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## Stump Shooter

I mostly use a file and create a good burr, once it is nice and thin I was taught to use the leather strop just enough to remove that wire edge. Leaving a good sharp edge that want roll over. I have just file sharpened and still do but it does make since to get rid of the wire edge.


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