# Buick won't start relay clicks?



## Artfuldodger (Feb 28, 2015)

I'm looking at my sister-in-laws 2000 Buick Regal. I can start the car by manually pressing in the Start Relay. The car actually cranks, runs 3-4 seconds and shuts down. This is with the key in the on position.

Using the key, the only thing that happens is a relay or something under the dash clicks once. I was leaning towards the VATS or PassKey security system but I get no Security light on the dash. It comes on with the other dash lights upon switching on the car during the systems test. Then it goes out with all of the other dash lights after the test. This is the normal test like any car does when you switch it on.

The relay I hear click is under the dash. I do not know if there is a "starter enable relay" under the dash separate from the "start relay" I manually pushed in under the hood. The start relay I pushed in  is in the engine compartment fuse box with the fan relays and fuel pump relay. The cover was broken and I was able to remove it from the relay. I've checked all of the fuses in this fuse box and the one inside in the dash. I moved relays around using the fan relays as a test. It's definitely not the starter as the car will actually start and run for 3 seconds but only manually bypassing the relay coil. So what ever gives this start relay power isn't giving it the coil voltage to pull it in. This mystery thing isn't giving the system permission to stay running even if I bypass the start relay manually by pushing it in. 

One thing that made me think it might be the VATs is I read that even if you get a car to start with the wrong key, the VATS will shut down power to the fuel system. I tried two different keys. Again though, I never get a security light which makes me think it isn't a security issue.

I'm not sure what happens when a VATS system  or ignition is malfunctioning. Let's say it's the key or the key reader in the ignition switch, would the relay under the dash click? A lock smith said he didn't think it was the ignition switch because the relay clicked under the dash. That if it was the switch nothing would happen.

My sister-in-law towed the car to a local shop who said it was the main computer also known as the ECU or PCM. They towed the car back home and had someone else replace it. The other place wanted more than the car was worth. The new ECU was flashed by the parts house. This didn't solve the starting problem. 

Before long my sister-in-law will have a two thousand dollar, thousand dollar car.

 I've read about bypassing the VATs ignition switch reader with a resistor that takes the place of the resistor in the key and the key reader. I've read about a VATs control module bypass module. I don't know if doing any of that would work since I'm not getting a security light.

Any ideas?


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## Artfuldodger (Feb 28, 2015)

Was reading this:
  It's that infamous “chip” in the key that becomes a nightmare to many. The security light may or may not start flashing. Sometimes it stays on steady. Gradually the car begins not cranking anymore or if it cranks it will start and die in a second. They have been known to shut down cars while driving and create dangerous situations. Randomly it will do this more and more often until it won’t start anymore. VATS, PASSkey and Passlock immobilizer systems are killing cars all over North America, they have a short lifespan and are certainly more effective against owners than thieves. Here is how you save your car; 

QUICK FIX TRICKS 

 1st trick, Try a spare key that is newer or used less. The pins wear down with use and so do the keys causing the security to fail. 

2nd trick, (if not starting) turn the key forward 2 clicks till right before it would normally start, leave like that for 10 minutes. ( no less ) After 10 minutes, turn key back then forward and your car might start. I did this in my regal for more than a year. If its shutting down while running, I'm sorry I have no quick fix... 

There are 3 parts in this system. 

 1.The chipkey (Black resister chip in key) 

 2.The lock cylinder (Pins that read the chip in the key) 

 3.The TDM (Theft Deterrant Module-Sometimes called the "computer" or "brain") This allows your car to start or continue running depending on your type of system. 

 If any of these parts fail or are not quite functioning properly in the slightest way, (also can be effected by heat,cold,rain,fog,ect) your car will not start, start for a few seconds, or die while driving. These systems can shut down fuel pumps, starters, and injectors to "protect" your car from theft. So many people, mechanics, and dealers will change everything before "finding" the problem. There are partial "fixes" out there, you can bypass the key and the lock cylinder in the steering column which means ripping apart your car for a temporary fix. If you are going to do the work yourself, i suggest pulling the whole "computer" (TDM) out complete.

NEVER WORRY AGAIN FIX: Bypass the whole VATS/Passlock/passkey I or passkey II system entirely. Literally take it out, and throw it away. I just did this in my 96 Regal. Took about an hour. It took longer to find the "theft deterrant module" so i could remove it, than it did to actually wire in the "Bypass module". This website sells a unit for 200 bucks to totally bypass this system FOREVER. Life time money back guarantee. Finally did this in my car. Well worth the 200. If you've looked into getting this replaced at a dealer, it can cost anywhere from 600-1000 bucks. And believe me they will sell you all 3 parts of the system before they "FIX" your problem, not to mention starters, fuel pumps, injectors, and whatnot. Don't go to a dealer, do it yourself.

https://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20110312061548AAPA0o7


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## Artfuldodger (Feb 28, 2015)

The security light is off, could my problem still be security?


Yes. While the security light on tells you for certain that your problem is in the security system, sometimes it can remain off even with a faulty security system as it is driven by the security system itself.

You’re in the right place.

VATS, Passkey or Passlock – are the core of GM security systems, have a short lifespan and they’re certainly more effective at keeping you from DRIVING your car than keeping someone from STEALING your car!

GM Security Systems are killing cars all over North America and the only final solution is to disable and remove them permanently. This is what NEWROCKIES Inc is all about.

How NOT to bypass a GM Security System

Thousands of people are trying to bypass GM Security Systems the wrong way. They just bypass a small part of it (key and lock) and so end up with their car stuck again with the exact same problem far away from home and without understanding why. And with the closest dealer ready to jump on them with a 1,000$ invoice.

The FULL Bypass solution from NEWROCKIES Inc.

At NEWROCKIES Inc., we’ve designed our PRO Bypass Module with the specific purpose of bypassing faulty GM VATS, Passkey and Passlock security systems IN FULL. We sell it to more than 1,000 garage shops in the US and Canada, but we keep also selling it to individual owners because it’s so easy to install!

Every GM security system works on this one simple principle: The Key/Lock component sends an input signal to the TDM/BCM through the wiring. When the TDM gets the right input signal, it produces an output signal that allows the engine to start. That’s all it does.
Why the key resister trick won't work;
This doesn’t work and it CANNOT be a permanent solution because you’re still stuck relying on the TDM – the brain of the system – the most complex and the most vulnerable part, the time-bomb that in all cases, often sooner than later, becomes the real cause of the no-start issue.

http://newrockies.com/


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