# What's the best way for me to transport a 2nd kayak?  Pics of my roof rack



## Klag (Aug 3, 2014)

I have a 10 foot Vapor that I just bought, took my wife out and she wants one real bad too.  I'll probably give her mine, and pick up a 12 foot sit on top kayak.

Currently, I strap the 10 footer down to the center of my roof rack.  I use 1 cam buckle strap on each cross bar and then tie the front and rear down to my bumper hooks.

My factory roof rack is only rated to 100 pounds.  The side bars are very sturdy, but the 2 cross bars are very flimsy and I would not feel comfortable using any system that involves those 2 cross bars.  

I don't have anywhere to store a trailer on my property, due to my home owners association.  So would have to carry the 2 on the Jeep.

What's the best way for me to transport the 2 kayaks around?  If possible, I'd like to transport them both upside down like I carry the one now since I do a lot of off-roading and low branches are sometimes a concern.

Here's my roof.  The 2 cross bars with the blue pool noodles are very flimsy, I'd like a system that eliminates those completely.







The 2 rails down the side seem fairly sturdy, so a system that bolts to that or even that rain channel would be ideal.






How I currently carry the single kayak.







Thanks for any info!!


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## elfiii (Aug 3, 2014)

http://www.yakima.com/


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## Klag (Aug 3, 2014)

Wow, lots of ways.

Looks like I just need a 4-pack of these rain gutter towers






Then a pair of cross bars for $89. 






That should do it eh?


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## fish hawk (Aug 3, 2014)

You could get a couple of those sideways mounts that attaches to the roof rack.I don't know if you have any other option.


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## theGreenAggie (Aug 3, 2014)

Can you not remove the existing factory cross bars? 

A word of caution - I have a Yakima roof rack with the round crossbars and I use HullRaiser Aero J-cradles for the yaks.  The J-cradles move way too easily, no matter how you tighten them.  Once you get both straps around the hull and both bow and stern tiedowns set up, I don't think it's a big deal, but I would still feel better if they didn't move.  If you went with crossbars that are not round, I don't think the cradles would move like that because they can't rotate around the bar.


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## Klag (Aug 3, 2014)

theGreenAggie said:


> Can you not remove the existing factory cross bars?




Yeah, I would remove the flimsy factory cross bars, and add the 2 round Yakima bars with those raingutter things.   That should be long enough to mount the 2 kayaks up side down, like I have the one mounted now.

Hopefully


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## theGreenAggie (Aug 3, 2014)

I guess the reason I was asking was because I didn't think you needed the rain gutter towers at all.  Isn't there something Yakima makes (or Thule or something else) that has towers to mount some crossbars right into your factory rails?  

Either way, I would still recommend the aero crossbars instead of the round crossbars.  My Yakima Hullraiser J-cradles roll around the round crossbars, and I assume that wouldn't happen with the oblong aero-bars.


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## Klag (Aug 3, 2014)

theGreenAggie said:


> I guess the reason I was asking was because I didn't think you needed the rain gutter towers at all.  Isn't there something Yakima makes (or Thule or something else) that has towers to mount some crossbars right into your factory rails?
> 
> Either way, I would still recommend the aero crossbars instead of the round crossbars.  My Yakima Hullraiser J-cradles roll around the round crossbars, and I assume that wouldn't happen with the oblong aero-bars.



I didn't see anything that would mount to the factory rails, but I might have just missed it.  Using that rain gutter mount the only option is round bars


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## pesce (Aug 3, 2014)

I have a Cherokee, and I picked up a used Thule rack with rain gutter mounts on craiglist for about $100.  It has square bars, and the rack easily holds 200+ pounds with my kayak and a roof box full of gear.  Like everyone says, try to stay away from the round bars.


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## Klag (Aug 4, 2014)

pesce said:


> I have a Cherokee, and I picked up a used Thule rack with rain gutter mounts on craiglist for about $100.  It has square bars, and the rack easily holds 200+ pounds with my kayak and a roof box full of gear.  Like everyone says, try to stay away from the round bars.



Awesome!  I will totally look into that!

Thanks!


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## pesce (Aug 4, 2014)

No problem.  Feel free to PM me if you have any questions about getting it all together.  Also, that's a sweet Cherokee.


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## 2redheads (Aug 4, 2014)

I have the yakima cross bar (purchased online) with the thule kayak carriers from dicks sporting goods.  I  take them on and off because I only go 4-5 times a year.  Mine takes about 15 minutes to put on my truck. I only use them when I tow my camper.  They are a pain if you are taking them on and off.
 If you are leaving them on all the time, that is the way to go.  My problem is I dropped over $500 into the rack and would be ticked off when they get stolen.  They have a lock system to protect the bars but I don't think they have a lock system for each of the carriers.


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## Geffellz18 (Aug 4, 2014)

Not sure how wide your roof is, but I can fit two laying flat on my mazda 6 roof with my yakima rack. I bought the 60" bars instead of the 48" standard ones they recommend, then cut them down to 54". I strap them down using chain link connectors that go around the pipe in order to get the strap where I want it to stay.

Edit....here's a pic of one on mine after purchase. Its hard to see, but the chain link tension band is very handy for me because the strap hooks will not fit directly over the yakima bars, and looping the strap back around Itself causes loss of tension and the boat will start to slide around.





Sorry about the upside down pics.....I'm pretty famous for them on here, lol. And lately I've been doing so good. Oh well!!!


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## Klag (Aug 4, 2014)

pesce said:


> No problem.  Feel free to PM me if you have any questions about getting it all together.



Will do, thanks again! 



pesce said:


> Also, that's a sweet Cherokee.



Thanks!  It's my main toy but gas is just too expensive to off-road all day.  Plus, I need to get in shape.  So kayak is the new hobby!  



2redheads said:


> I have the yakima cross bar (purchased online) with the thule kayak carriers from dicks sporting goods.  I  take them on and off because I only go 4-5 times a year.  Mine takes about 15 minutes to put on my truck. I only use them when I tow my camper.  They are a pain if you are taking them on and off.
> If you are leaving them on all the time, that is the way to go.  My problem is I dropped over $500 into the rack and would be ticked off when they get stolen.  They have a lock system to protect the bars but I don't think they have a lock system for each of the carriers.



Roger that.  I would be able to leave the rack on full time since I use the kayak multiple times per week (at least for now since its so new and exciting).  



Geffellz18 said:


> Not sure how wide your roof is, but I can fit two laying flat on my mazda 6 roof with my yakima rack. I bought the 60" bars instead of the 48" standard ones they recommend, then cut them down to 54". I strap them down using chain link connectors that go around the pipe in order to get the strap where I want it to stay.



Yeah, my roof is wide enough to support the 60 inch bars.  I Just need to find the mounting hardware that either fits to that rain channel or to my existing side rails, then get rid of my flimsy factory cross bars for the Yakima/Thule bars.  I'd like to be able to lay the 2 kayaks upside down, side by side.

I'm actually considering a 2-person kayak instead of lugging around two anyway.  That way my wife can paddle while I fish!!


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## Klag (Aug 22, 2014)

First, thanks again for all the great info in this thread.

I picked up the rain gutter mounts on Cragislist for really cheep.  I just need the cross bars, and a set of locks for the rain gutter mounts.

My question is this.  After 3 weeks of loading and unloading my kayak almost daily, my shoulder hurts.  It's always been bad, but aggravated from the loading/unloading.  

So, I'm going to get some sort of assist loader.  I was thinking about getting the 78 inch cross bars for my Jeep so it would stick out enough on the sides to load the kayak from the side (much like the extension bars that slide out for side loading).   Is that a terrible idea - and I'd be better off with the 66 inch bars and the extension (called the Boat Loader by Yakima)?

I also saw the ShowBoat Load Assist from Yakima but that's a bit more expensive, but another option.

I'd love to be able to get away with just using the 78 inch bars and not having to spend any more on a load assist.

Thanks again for any info!!


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## Richard O (Aug 23, 2014)

FYI REI has 20% off of all Yakima products until Sept 1. I dropped a boatload on Yakima stuff this week. I put the noodles on because I plan to load from the rear of the vehicle. I'll rest the bow on the rear bar then pick up on the stern and push the boat forward onto the Jeep. I haven't tried it yet but that's my plan.


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## pesce (Aug 23, 2014)

If your gutter mounts already have locks in them and you just don't have a key, you can get a set of keys from Yakima if you tell them the code on the locks.  Think you can order them from ORS Racks Direct, if I recall correctly.  

I just got the Yakima Showboat load assist, and it's pretty awesome.  My kayak weighs about 70 pounds empty, and I just extend the load assist and lift the front onto it, the go around and lift the back and push.  It rolls right up there… well, as long as the hull is reasonably clean and slippery.  Unloads easy too.  I like being able to get the kayak on the roof when I wanna go somewhere without a boat ramp, or when I want to pull the camper and still fish.

If you shoulder really gets to bothering you, you might consider a trailer.  I have a used trailer that I got from a seller here on GON that I modified to wet launch my loaded kayak.  Just back it down the ramp, slide it off, and get to fishing.  Best of both worlds.  There's always a good deal on a jet ski trailer somewhere.

Oh yeah, I've also got an Inno load assist lying around the garage somewhere.  It attaches to your front cross bar and flips out to the side when you need to use it.  It wasn't strong enough for my heavy yak, and if you're interested I'll make you a good deal on it.


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## pesce (Aug 23, 2014)

Just remembered, I've also got a canoe assist loader that goes into the tow hitch.  You lift the stern or bow onto the top of the t-bar, then you grab the other end and walk it around in a semi-circle and put it on the front load bar.  It worked like a charm and I could easily load an 80 lb. canoe by myself.  Would definitely work for a kayak.  The only reason I don't use it for my yak now is because you have to put the yak on the rack upside down and I've got to many Ram mounts on it to do that.  (Kinda looks like I might need to have a garage sale. XD )


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## Klag (Aug 23, 2014)

Great info, pesce, thanks!

I went and looked at a Showboat Loadassist today from Craigstlist, but it was missing pieces so I didn't get it.  

I'm looking to get a heavier sit on top kayak myself sooner or later.  

Oh, and the Yakima towers don't have locks at all.

My shoulder was trashed before I got a kayak, and will probably be trashed forever.  Doesn't hurt to row, just lifting over my head.


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## leoparddog (Aug 24, 2014)

Seems like you have your solution.  My solution was to buy a 4x6 foot trailer from Tractor Supply. The trailer tongue extension is held on with two pins.  I can remove the trailer tongue and the trailer stands upright on it's end against the wall in my garage.  The trailer cost about $400. I can remove one pin on the tongue extension and the trailer tilts making loading and unloading easy.  The yak rides on runners made from gray PVC electric conduit.


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## Klag (Aug 24, 2014)

leoparddog said:


> Seems like you have your solution.  My solution was to buy a 4x6 foot trailer from Tractor Supply. The trailer tongue extension is held on with two pins.  I can remove the trailer tongue and the trailer stands upright on it's end against the wall in my garage.  The trailer cost about $400. I can remove one pin on the tongue extension and the trailer tilts making loading and unloading easy.  The yak rides on runners made from gray PVC electric conduit.



That's a great deal for a trailer.  I'd totally go with a trailer but I like to take my kayak on off-road trips and hit lakes/rivers accessible only by rough gravel roads where an trailer wouldn't work.  And more importantly, I cant keep a trailer on my property due to my homeowners association 

I'm just trying to figure out my one last issue of going with the 78 inch cross bars, or 66 inch cross bars with the extenders to load a kayak from the side.  Or 66 inch bars and the Showboat Load Assist.  78 inch bars is the cheapest option.  Already have the rain gutter towers.


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## Klag (Aug 24, 2014)

Richard O said:


> FYI REI has 20% off of all Yakima products until Sept 1.



Double extra thanks for this!  Picked up the locking cores and 78 inch cross bars today for a nice discount at REI.  I'll install it all tomorrow and give it a shot.  Looks like the bars are long enough that I wont need the extenders for side loading.  

Oh, and nice Jeep too!!!


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## Klag (Aug 25, 2014)

Well, here is the final outcome of this thread.

I picked up the A1 Rain Gutter towers for $50 on Craigslist, but they didn't have the locks.  Bought the locks and 78 inch cross bars from REI with that 20% discount.  Came home, installed it all, and although the bars do stick out pretty far on each side, it just wasn't enough to load the kayak from the side.  So I went back to REI and picked up the boat loader and installed it on the rear cross bar.  

I'm not sure how I feel about the super long cross bars, they stick out exactly the same as my mirrors, no further, but still pretty far.  I'm worried I'll catch every low hanging branch/tree while off-roading.  Once I get the 2nd kayak, and measure the width of both kayaks I might trim the bars down some.  

About $250 total.

Thanks again to everyone for all their advice.  I was really lost when I first started out!


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## puddlehunter (Aug 25, 2014)

Richard O said:


> FYI REI has 20% off of all Yakima products until Sept 1. I dropped a boatload on Yakima stuff this week. I put the noodles on because I plan to load from the rear of the vehicle. I'll rest the bow on the rear bar then pick up on the stern and push the boat forward onto the Jeep. I haven't tried it yet but that's my plan.



Make sure the front of your boat is on the bar good before lifting and pushing it forward with the soft top...or zip up your window, I tore one of mine that way


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## Richard O (Aug 26, 2014)

puddlehunter said:


> Make sure the front of your boat is on the bar good before lifting and pushing it forward with the soft top...or zip up your window, I tore one of mine that way


Thanks. I'm going to give it a try this evening. My neck and right shoulder have been sore for the last few days and I'm sure it's from loading the canoe.


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