# Stabilizer Setups for Hunting



## Brewskis (May 27, 2015)

Been thinking about stabilizers recently and after a quick search, I found some threads talking about what stabilizer(s) everyone is using, but not much explanation of why and how. I'm currently using a 10" Bee Stinger Sport Hunter Xtreme with the factory (3) 1 oz. weights on the end on my bows. At some point I read good reviews about it, bought it, screwed it on and forgot about it. It works well enough I suppose, but I'm kinda thinking I'd like to try to see if I can stabilize things a bit more.

Obviously with a hunting setup, weight and length are more of a factor than in a tournament setting since we're hiking, climbing, perhaps holding at full-draw longer than expected, dealing with tree limbs, etc.

What are y'all using, and how did you arrive at that setup? Is there a significant advantage gained from adding a rear stabilizer to a hunting setup? How would someone go about determining the best length and weight to use up front and possibly behind without compromising hunt-ability?


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## Smackem (May 27, 2015)

Im using 6 inch axion ssg. I have tried many stabilizers and this gives me a nice balance of length, noise supression, weight adjustability, and weight balance.


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## Hunter922 (May 27, 2015)

I used a B Stinger 10" for about 5 years and then switched three years ago to a 10" Vendetta. Weight can be added or subtracted to each side to help get the shooter more balanced. At anchor my bubble is dead center and dead still. It is the best stabilizer I have found so far and I have not even thought about changing since I bought it. I run one on my 3D bow as well.


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## pasinthrough (May 27, 2015)

I'll be using the Dead Level Hunter system from Dead Center Archery this year.  Comes with either 8/6" bars or 10/8".  Also comes with 6 ounces of weight so you can put it exactly where you want for perfect balance.


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## bukhuntr (May 28, 2015)

Hunter922 said:


> I used a B Stinger 10" for about 5 years and then switched three years ago to a 10" Vendetta. Weight can be added or subtracted to each side to help get the shooter more balanced. At anchor my bubble is dead center and dead still. It is the best stabilizer I have found so far and I have not even thought about changing since I bought it. I run one on my 3D bow as well.


 
I use a fuse blade now, but was considering swithing to the two beestingers.  I checked out Vendetta's website and I really like the idea.  Thinking about ordering one.


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## Kris87 (May 28, 2015)

With today's parallel limb bows, you will definitely benefit by shooting with a back bar.  If you have never shot with a back bar, then you're going to be amazed when you actually feels what a balanced bow feels like.  Sure, you can hold fine with just one out front, or one with very little weight, but there's no comparison on how well a front and back bar setup will hold.

I'm shooting a 12" B-Stinger on front with only 2oz of weight, and a 10" on the rear with 6oz of weight.  I have the Stinger Elite quick disconnect and will just carry mine in my pack until I'm in the tree.


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## pasinthrough (May 28, 2015)

Kris87 said:


> With today's parallel limb bows, you will definitely benefit by shooting with a back bar.  If you have never shot with a back bar, then you're going to be amazed when you actually feels what a balanced bow feels like.  Sure, you can hold fine with just one out front, or one with very little weight, but there's no comparison on how well a front and back bar setup will hold.
> 
> I'm shooting a 12" B-Stinger on front with only 2oz of weight, and a 10" on the rear with 6oz of weight.  I have the Stinger Elite quick disconnect and will just carry mine in my pack until I'm in the tree.



That's why I've gone with DCA.  Quick detach and it is amazing what a little weight on a back bar can do...


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## Brewskis (May 28, 2015)

Thanks for the responses guys. Sounds like it's definitely worth adding a back bar. The quick disconnect seems perfect for keeping the stabilizers out of the way until in the tree.

So far, I'm seeing the following combos:

8" front - 6" back
10" front - 8" back
12" front - 10" back

Is it accurate to say the longer each one is the better the hold? Currently shooting 10" up front, I'm wondering if I should keep that as my front one and add a shorter back one, or add a longer front one and use the 10" as my back one.


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## Huntinfool (May 28, 2015)

I'm leaning toward the b-stinger 8.6 sport hunter extreme kit.  It's the 8" front - 6" back combo that has quick disconnects on both.  

Definitely going the b-stinger route.  Just not positive yet whether I'll go 10/8 or 8/6.


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## Kris87 (May 28, 2015)

Brewskis, its a lot of trial and error.  Just remember that the shorter bars will typically require more weight.  I shoot the longer bars because I don't have to use as much weight to reduce sight picture float.  My rule of thumb is to shoot the longest bar I can get away with without it getting in the way.  And since I treestand hunt 99% of the time, longer bars don't impede anything for me.


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## bukhuntr (May 29, 2015)

Thanks Kris, I think you just answered some questions for me.  Does the back bar also help reduce torque?



Kris87 said:


> Brewskis, its a lot of trial and error. Just remember that the shorter bars will typically require more weight. I shoot the longer bars because I don't have to use as much weight to reduce sight picture float. My rule of thumb is to shoot the longest bar I can get away with without it getting in the way. And since I treestand hunt 99% of the time, longer bars don't impede anything for me.


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## Brewskis (May 29, 2015)

OK, thanks. I found a pretty good deal on an 8" last night, so I'm going to give that a try with the 10" I already have up front. I figure I can always unload the 8" on AT if I decide I want to try the 12" up front later. I also ordered an Elite QD and some extra 1 oz. weights. 

I'll post up results after experimenting with the weights between the front and back.


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## Kris87 (May 29, 2015)

bukhuntr said:


> Thanks Kris, I think you just answered some questions for me.  Does the back bar also help reduce torque?



It won't help torque but it will help keep your 2nd axis(sight bubble) where it should be and improve left/right misses at longer range.  Whichever way you naturally tilt your bow(most right handed shooters tilt it to the right), that's which way your arrows will miss.  

Stabilizer setups are a lot of personal preference too.  Just because one guy likes a side bar with a lot of weight doesn't mean the next one will.  Some guys can shoot fine at shorter distances with basically no stabilizer.  Its all about what you want out of your equipment for your particular style of hunting.

Everyone go listen to my buddy John Dudley's last podcast.  I think its episode 42.  I ask him in the episode why he doesn't shoot a back bar.  He gave some good info.


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## bukhuntr (May 29, 2015)

Kris87 said:


> It won't help torque but it will help keep your 2nd axis(sight bubble) where it should be and improve left/right misses at longer range. Whichever way you naturally tilt your bow(most right handed shooters tilt it to the right), that's which way your arrows will miss.
> 
> .


 

If I miss, I am almost always miss left.  I shoot at 50 most all the time, and sometimes I will be 2-4" left of center.  I'm right handed, so is it possible a backbar would make the problem worse?  I'm wondering if I have some hand torque going on.  I have been considering for a while trying a back bar and a longer front stabilizer.  Currently have a 10" fuze carbon blade.


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## Kris87 (May 29, 2015)

Could be a tuning issue or possibly your sight is just off slightly.  Often times you can think your bow is sighted in, but its off at long distance.  Could be something simple like your 2nd axis adjustment is off.  I'd look at my sight setup first.  I'm sure you're not canting the bow to the left.  That's rare.


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## Stump Shooter (May 30, 2015)

I guess I should look into a different stabilizer if I keep the Helium. I am finding it harder to keep the pin still on the target and just accept the floating. I've just always stuck a limb saver on there and left it at that.


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## Brian from GA (May 30, 2015)

I recommend going to a shop with a good selection of competition stabilizers. Here we let guys play with stabilizers and weights. Most of the time by the time we have fine tuned the stabilizers to the customers bow and form they buy it. The bar you have on front may be perfect but you might need only 2 weights or 4 weights. There are several good v-bar attachments but Shrewd to me makes the most bullet proof. It will not move. Experiment.  Stabilizers are expensive so if you buy it offline and hate it.... you're stuck.  

Check out an episode or 2 of Name the Game.  Levi shoots some ridiculously long stabilizers for hunting.  Works for him. So experiment.  

Personally I shot 2 11" BMF bars for Buckmaster 2 years ago and my bow aimed great. Now I had a 2 ounce weight on front and I think a 6 on back. Again play around.


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## Brewskis (Jun 1, 2015)

Kris87 said:


> Stabilizer setups are a lot of personal preference too.  Just because one guy likes a side bar with a lot of weight doesn't mean the next one will.  Some guys can shoot fine at shorter distances with basically no stabilizer.  Its all about what you want out of your equipment for your particular style of hunting.
> 
> Everyone go listen to my buddy John Dudley's last podcast.  I think its episode 42.  I ask him in the episode why he doesn't shoot a back bar.  He gave some good info.



Didn't know about his podcast. Good stuff from what I've listened to so far.

In the one you mentioned, he did explain how personal preference and circumstances definitely dictate why he doesn't use a back bar while hunting. From what I remember, the reasons he gave were:


Simplicity - ability to carry bow
Hunting bow much shorter (ATA) than target bow (weight closer to center and therefore less severe lean)
Filming hunts - maneuverability 
Physical ability to hold/support weight and affect on form
I'm still going to give it a try since I think it's worth it if it slows down/stabilizes my current sight picture. The quick disconnects should take care of the portability/transport of bow and stabilizer setup. I shoot a 34" ATA bow, and whereas that's not close to a target bow ATA, it's also not a short ATA bow. As of right now, I don't self-film, so no hindrance in that regard. I will be interested to see how the extra weight affects my form or ability to hold for any length of time.

I got my back bar, weights, and QDs yesterday, so I hope to play around with it some this week and form my own opinion.


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## Brian from GA (Jun 2, 2015)

Actually at 34" you are pretty close to tournament lengths. 10 years ago you needed to be over 40". 5 years ago you had to be over 37". Now lots of top pros shoot 34 and 35" bows. 

I like your attitude.  Play to see what works for YOU.


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## Brewskis (Jul 25, 2015)

Kris87 said:


> Brewskis, its a lot of trial and error.  Just remember that the shorter bars will typically require more weight.  I shoot the longer bars because I don't have to use as much weight to reduce sight picture float.  My rule of thumb is to shoot the longest bar I can get away with without it getting in the way.  And since I treestand hunt 99% of the time, longer bars don't impede anything for me.



I see what you were talking about it being a lot of trial and error. I'm still having a little trouble finding the 'sweet spot' - weight distribution and outward and downward angles of the back bar in order to eliminate all pin float. And tips regarding that such as good starting angles?

Also, I have a piece of leather that my sling slips through which I then have attached between the quick disconnect and the bow. However, I'm noticing that the whole stabilizer setup easily loosens and rotates. I've been a little hesitant to crank it down much tighter. Any ideas?


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## hoytslanger87 (Jul 25, 2015)

There was a really good thread on archerytalk a few months ago about fine tuning stabilizer and back bar. I'll post a link if I can find it again


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## The Arrow Guru (Jul 25, 2015)

*Here*

B-Stingers for my set up. I set my hunting bow up cery similar to my tournament set up. It's the way I have shot for years.


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## Brewskis (Aug 12, 2015)

Brewskis said:


> Also, I have a piece of leather that my sling slips through which I then have attached between the quick disconnect and the bow. However, I'm noticing that the whole stabilizer setup easily loosens and rotates. I've been a little hesitant to crank it down much tighter. Any ideas?



Bump for anyone who has a suggestion regarding this. Last night, I finally had enough of the quick disconnect loosening every time I remove the stabilizers from it, and just took the leather piece and sling off.

The quick disconnect can now tighten down enough so that it doesn't loosen when unscrewing and removing the stabilizers. However, now I'm without a sling. 

Any ideas?


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## Kris87 (Aug 12, 2015)

yep, that leather holder needs to go.  I don't like it with B-stingers with or without the quick disconnect.  I've seen it make the stabilizers have a weird rattle...seen it many times.  I'm not shooting with a sling any more.  I have shot straight down, and I just don't have any issue with the bow coming out of my hand since its so well balanced.  I never shot one during 3D, so I just adopted same thing for hunting.  Its much easier not to have to feed my hand in it too.

However, if you absolutely feel you need one.  Then just get some d-loop and tie it around the grip.  I've done that on a couple of bows, and attached it right behind where the stabilizer screws in.  Your Hoyt has a black metal piece there about 3/4" long that you can find a way to attach it.


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## poolecw (Aug 14, 2015)

Stump Shooter said:


> I guess I should look into a different stabilizer if I keep the Helium. I am finding it harder to keep the pin still on the target and just accept the floating. I've just always stuck a limb saver on there and left it at that.




I just got a Helium and am having the same issue.  You would think thank a properly setup front and rear bar would help.


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