# Mr. Belly Gun



## Sharps40 (Nov 8, 2014)

Sore leg.  Can't walk or sit or lay down or get back up.....so....stuck in the house and figgered I'd see what I could do during short sessions sitting at the bench with a cosmetically worn but mechanically fine three screw.

I like the Sheriff style for carry but with ejection system rather than a bare barrel.  Thought I'd give a whirl to modifying the Ruger factory parts for functional ejection with a 3.5" barrel rather than spend and wait for Cimarron parts to come in.  Sort of an I got it here and am board just chewin antiinflamatories and prednisone and watchin videos kinda deal.....

For starters......

Shorten and crown the barrel with a recontour of the sharp edge at the muzzle left after the cut and squaring.  This action got me a 3.5"ish barrel, just enough for ejector function and got rid of some rather heavy pitting on the exterior of the muzzle.







Lopped off one bump on the cylinder pin to get a longer ejector stroke.  Again, it gives just enough to lift the cases out so they can be dropped or plucked clear of the chambers.  Also recut the grooves in the cylinder rod so the edges are sharp for a better grab when withdrawing the pin.






A factory length ejector rod housing next to the newly shortened original.  All hand work with file and saw.  Scribing and cutting in guide lines to make it too long to begin with and hand filing the shoulders to the final fit.  The newly shortened alloy EHR is slightly shorter than the barrel with is slightly longer than 3.5"  The factory spring and the ejector rod is shortened a commensurate amount to fit the new housing length.  






Just have to drill and tap for the retention screw and we'll have all the original but now somewhat shorter parts back in place and functional.  Nice thing is....2 hours work, no cost, no waiting for parts and its all back on there an the proper length for a belly gun.











Oh yeah, this one is a Clickety Clack....no conversion guts.  A true 5 shot 6 Shooter that spells Colt when you draw the hammer back thru its 4 distinct clicks.


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## Sharps40 (Nov 9, 2014)

A hole is drilled and tapped 8x40 for the EHR housing retention screw.  Its depth is the same as factory, just shy of 3 threads deep.






Assembled, and checked for function....the cylinder pin can not be withdrawn quite enough to release the cylinder.






So, the head of the ejector button is thinned and the face of the cylinder pin ground down just a touch more.  And now on reassembly, the cylinder pin remains captive by the ejector rod assembly but the cylinder can be easily removed.  So now, like the New Model, the EHR housing must be removed to fully withdraw the cylinder pin for thorough cleaning and maintenance but that's not much of a draw back for a short barrel and functional ejection.






In order to achieve the fullest possible ejection stroke, the undercut of the ejector rod must be extended about 1/4 to 3/8 inch toward the ejector rod head.  Roughed in file work and we'll finish and polish the rod later.  The shorter modified rod compared to a factory rod. 






A touch more stroke is available thru finishing the ejector rod undercut.  At this point, spring stack is not a problem either.






As currently modified, and I'd consider the ejection system 80% completed now, there is more than adequate lift of fired cases to allow them to drop out or be plucked from the cylinder bores.  






And here, the cylinder pin fully withdrawn, captive against loss but the cylinder easily installed and removed.  So, overall, success.  No parts to buy.  Just some time and effort for a Sheriff with full function ejection.


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## coop3r (Nov 9, 2014)

Looks great!


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## Sharps40 (Nov 9, 2014)

Even better, it works properly and was F-R-E-E Free!


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## Sharps40 (Nov 11, 2014)

A cool belly gun needs a cool front sight and anyway, this gives me some practice for makin up a sight for the Pimp Cannon/Gentlemans Workhorse.  Sort of preproduction sperimentation as the PC/GW will probably morph into a sort barreled 45 ACP revolver for +P and Ruger Only ACP handloads.

But....to the experiment.

A Rocky Mountain front sight, from an ancient Boys Rifle w/ German Silver blade, about 100ish years old and .470" wide.....






German silver blade desoldered, base thinned to standard .375 groove and an Indian Head Nickle cut out and prepped to serve as the Front Sight Blade.  .560" high finished height for some adjustability in elevation and against heavy bullet loadings in this revolver.  (Rear sight has the low blade in it now and I can switch to a high blade if that will regulate w/o having to cut or trim the front sight.....trimming the front will require following the countours of the headdress to keep it looking good.)






Clamped, fluxed and silver soldered into place.  Should be as strong or stronger as the soft soldered original.  That plus this coin blade is about twice or more as thick as the original German Silver blade that was in the base.  






After a bit of clean up.






Quick check, yep, its pretty much straight up and down.






Profile shots....now that's what I call a Coin Front Sight with some character.


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## Sharps40 (Nov 14, 2014)

Grip arrived.  SS.  New model.  Will have to adapt it to the old model frame and trigger but that's easy.  Some thin grips too....stabilized amboyna burl if I can find a chunk big enough.  But, for $73 on clearance from midwayusa, I couldn't pass it up.  No rust and no peeled paint down the road neither.  I wonder how it would look and fit slightly rounded in the butt and toe?


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## Sharps40 (Nov 15, 2014)

Round butt now.  Might need a pinkie groove too.


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## 660griz (Nov 19, 2014)

That front sight is gonna give you a wedgie.


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## coop3r (Nov 23, 2014)

I like the rounded butt and toe as well by I prefer the pinky groove. It just helps with recoil control imo.


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## Sharps40 (Dec 16, 2014)

A few thousands extra metal don't seem like much till ya gotta take it off, even and by hand.  

Discounting the grip frame was out of spec on the upper screw holes (fixed it....will finish reboring the countersinks for the screw heads later) it was quite a few thousands proud on both sides.  Good and bad.  Good cause you can fit it to the frame.  Bad cause its a lot of work, stainless is stringy and clogs files quickly and its a lot of work.  

Here is an example of the extra metal in the grip frame for fitting to the receiver.






And here, the bulk of the roughin in done on the left side.  






I'll block sand this side in the rest of the way later.  Gotta finish the other side first and finish up the grip frame....then root around for the last of the spalted curly maple and see if there is enough to make grip panels with.


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## Sharps40 (Dec 16, 2014)

Side two is roughed in.  SN is preserved.

Off to make the trigger return spring assembly next.  NM Frame on OM receiver and the return springs are different/not interchangeable without some work.


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## Sharps40 (Jan 4, 2015)

Fun with files.

Measurements indicated just enough roof on the topstrap to go to a true flat top.....so, mark that task done.






A slight trim of the headdress to provide better reflection and now I'll have to reshape just a scooch and trim in the feathers.  But, with a slight angle cut I have a tip that reflects light to my eye much better.  Better even than the hump on the buffalo's shoulder of the Gentlemans Workhorse front sight.






Some initial polishing in of the Stainless Ruger Plowshare Frame (reground to birdshead) so that it fits the action perfectly and removes the bulk of the file marks from initial fitting.  Both sides now done to 100g finish.  I do want to increase the size and depth of the trigger finger undercut on the right side of the grip.....just a touch more room and a smooth rounded edge against the finger in recoil.






The arch of the ruger backstrap is high and thick.  With smaller hands the bore does not become an extension of the arm bones, rather pointing to the right with a too large grip.  The beginning of a divot, still a bit flat but coming along, and I already notice, the arm bones and barrel are now in line.  No more grinding for now....gotta put wood on there first and finalize the shape of both together.


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## ted_BSR (Jan 5, 2015)

Wow! Nice work!


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## Sharps40 (Jan 8, 2015)

Putting the OM Trigger return back into the NM grip frame.

Start with an old bolt.  5/16" dia is about right. Drill, slot, taper, shorten, flatten and its done and in there and works perfect.  Current trigger pull is a smooth weniewocker shy of 2 lbs.....






Once the bolt is drilled for the trigger return pin and spring, the bottom is flattened as needed and the entire rig is cut to length.






If you like, cross drill for the retention pin.  I find it as effective to simply slot the housing as porkhair shallow so the cross pin will firmly hold the housing down into the return spring trough of the grip frame.  File a concavity in the tail of the new housing as needed to clearance the hammer spring strut.






Install the new housing, trigger plunger and spring, cross pin it and then put the gun together for fit and function checks.






Neatly done.  Full function....New Model Grip adapted to Old Model Action and you retain the familiar trigger pull of the old model and don't have to buy the expensive conversion trigger.


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## Sharps40 (Jan 18, 2015)

More fun with files and some of the first work from the near completed understairs rust bluing maintenance cleaning and customizing room.

After the long edges of the topstrap are beveled 45 degrees, the first cuts with a rat tail file to establish a S&W style nose on this old 3 screw.






About half done with the nosing.






Nose polished 100g and starting to bootstrap the beveled edges of the topstrap into a rounder smoother shape.






As long as I'm in the metal removal mood.....might as well disappear the ruger barrel banner with a combination of cross and draw filing and then cross and draw polishing. 






Back together with the shaping work about 80% completed.






Top strap and shapes are initially finished 100g.  Topstrap will probably stay 100g while the rest of the gun gets a 150g or so finish.  Nice satiny smooth low gloss when blued and holds lots of oil or grease for protection.






A bit closer look.  Lovely thing about old eyes with bifocals, ya need good photos to look at on the screen to see if left matches right in shape and size and to see if all the polishing marks from each successive grit are polished away.  So far, first hit and the shapes and polish looks good.  Not much refining to do from here....just light work.






With the topstrap flattened and the edges rounded, I can finally see...there is plenty lots of metal over the rear sight cross pin.  It'll last a longness of time and be plenty plenty durable.






Straight down and the shapes remain symmetrical.  All hand work.  Machines are not the be all and end all of gunsmithing.  






Quartering in....just a whisker more work to do at the 2 oclock spot on the nose above the barrel to match up the scribe line on the face of most ruger frames.






Business end look....yep, a touch more to work on at the 2 oclock spot.  But, first good cuts and the shape is pleasing.






Backing out for an overall look.


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## Sharps40 (Jan 19, 2015)

For the grip panels, I decided to go with the very rare and gorgeous stabilized Afzelia Xylay.  The blanks are 2" x 5" x 3/8" which is going to be close and require very careful fitting.  If it works....should be mucho prettyoso. (Grandkids is teachin me Spanish.....I think I gots a ways to go.)

Looks a bit like this on a gun handle.  Mine has some neat black inclusions that ad some interest....don't know if I'll put em top or bottom or if they will cut out as the blank is longer than the grip frame.






and here on a knife






and here in hand....






Gonna be so pretty might have to get rid of that 45 acp revolver cause I won't be carryin it!


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## Sharps40 (Jan 23, 2015)

Grip panels are in.  Nice figure, a bit of spalting and a worm hole.  Great character.  Hope they are big enough!


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## Sharps40 (Jan 23, 2015)

I was fortunate to find these scales in 2" width.  Common knife handle width is not more than 1 3/4" and that's just too narrow.

But.....with a tablet backing template of the newly modified ruger grip frame......I have just enough wood to move around, looking for best figure and least flaws.

Where possible I'd like to eliminate the worm holes or at least hide them inside.  And....I'll choose the best side to face out as well as put the prettier wood slab on the loading gate side, the show side when holstered for right hand draw.






Kinda like GoodWife pickin paint colors or curtains, put it on, take it off, put it on, move it and finally, I trace the left and right panels marking them Left/Outside and Right Outside so I can keep it straight later.


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## Sharps40 (Jan 25, 2015)

First cuts to get the grip panels roughly aligned in the upper corners of the grip frame.






Left side panel is sitting just where I want it....good contact in the upper corners.






Right side panel needs some work....






Better after some file work....just a bit further to go and I can drill for the alignment pin in the bottom of the grip frame.


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## Sharps40 (Jan 31, 2015)

Fitting up the grip panels.  Double pinned, bottom as per factory and up top with an extended trigger spring retaining pin.  Eustachian's installed and temp stainless screw.  Rough shaping done....its all in the final final now....shaping and sanding.  Lots of hand work with highly figured wood.


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## hayseed_theology (Jan 31, 2015)

That wood is gorgeous!


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## Sharps40 (Jan 31, 2015)

We'll see.....figure appears to go clean thru but the size, tone and clarity can change quite a bit as the shaping and smoothing commences.


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## Sharps40 (Feb 1, 2015)

Some loss of figure on the rounded portions but still looks great 90% finished.

Bare wood here....Worm holes top and bottom and spalting add character to the left grip panel...












A touch of urethane to bring out the grain and colors.






Good color and figure on the right panel.  The flattened portion of the backstrap needs more shaping but comes in to its own allowing a thicker set of grip panels without increasing pull length.  The feel at this point is quite good....just a bit more shaping to do and then to shape up the backstrap and get the lower end finished.


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## cmshoot (Feb 2, 2015)

Looking great!


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## Sharps40 (Feb 3, 2015)

I'd like to put a Bisley hammer on it but not sure if its worth all the coinage RP wants for one that fits an OM.


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## Sharps40 (Feb 15, 2015)

Finally.  Got the upper rear out of spec screw holes milled down by hand the 10 to 20 thousands needed for good alignment of all the screw holes in the frame.  The overall shape is established and the first buff to show any hidden flaws that need more work before the final 220g finish on the SS grip frame.  Now I can final fit those crazy good looking grip panels.











And after the final shaping and rounding of the inner edges so the interface between metal and wood doesn't cut skin, about the umptheenth coat of clear urethane rubbed in hard to the grip panels.  Probably two or three more coats rubbed in and rubbed out will finish the grip panels.  Now to find a colt ejector button and rod and work on the cylinder bevel.


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## NotaVegetarian (Feb 15, 2015)

Nice


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## Sharps40 (Feb 15, 2015)

Low speed on the drill press and some action with file and 120g paper.  Just round over the front edge to slip easier into holsters.  Do not round over too deep.....depth of the flutes is the gauge.  Even or proud of that depth and you do not uncover the back of the barrel.  45 caliber is harder.....not as much metal between the cylinder wall and the circumference of the cylinder....go to far and you risk uncovering a portion of the barrel at the gap.....more gas leakage.  A little bit go's a long way.

Looks better when finished too, front of the flutes rounding in instead of straight out......as close to the butchers melt as I'll ever get I suppose.  Don't know if it really eases holstering but it sure looks good with the flutes rounded at both ends when its completed and blued.  

Also, first passes on the circumference with 120g and the freckling of years of use shows as light pitting.  I suspect the vast majority will polish out with out too much effort and the remainder will be hidden in the mated finish.  Should look spankey good when blued.


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## Sharps40 (Feb 16, 2015)

Grip frame and grips are done....99%.  Ready for final cleaning and I'll put them away till the entire gun is completed.

Final finish on the stainless steel is 220g satin and the finish in the wood is hand rubbed urethane, satin also.


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## Sharps40 (Feb 16, 2015)

First rust on the completed parts.  Black is on the way.

All polished thru 120 and or 220g






Building a head of heat and humidity in the inaugural run of the rust bluing damp box.






Parts, thoroughly wetted with pilkingtons are in the cabinet for the first one hour rust cycle.


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## Sharps40 (Feb 17, 2015)

Iced in for a day here in Central NC with nary a snow plow in site so.....rust.  To say I'm pleased with the first 18 hour run of the new damp cabinet is an understatement.


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## Sharps40 (Feb 17, 2015)

After carding with 0000 steel wool.....first run in the rust looks good.  Great initial color and the only dark spots are the bottoms of the freckles that did not polish out of the cylinder.  The worst part of any rust bluing job is actually rust bluing and carding screw heads and the through pins.

This will probably take three passes on the pins and screws.  4 to 6 passes on the cylinder.


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## Sharps40 (Feb 17, 2015)

Scalloped recoil shields are an expensive gunsmith job....or not.  If you have practice hand filing skills, like any good gunsmith should, file them in yourself.  Its a 30 minute job from rat tail to half round to final shape on the press mounted sanding drums.

Left side, laying out the first cuts with a rattail, halfway from standing breech to tail of the recoil shield and far enough down so the tops of each scallop will be at or just below the top edge of the loading gate.  All eyeball, no layout lines needed.  Done slowly and with care they will match up fine.  The thickness of the loading gate is the limiting factor, I plan to back cut the gate for finger access.  So, to prevent a knife edge on it and loss of its round countours, the scallops will be shallower than one that penetrates both the top and bottom of the loading gate side recoil shield.






Begin opening the rattail cut with the half round file.  when the rattail cut (at the bottom) disappears, I'm done except for final adjustments and polish on the press mounted drum sander.






Rattail first on the loading gate side.  Not cutting into the top of the recoil shield at this time.....we'll see how steady I am and if they line up (top and bottom and depth) when all is said and done.






Finish up the loading gate side with the 1/2 round file....still not into the top of the recoil shield....both tops and bottoms should be fairly well in alignment.  Off to the drum sanders next to finish this side too.






Not bad.  Eyeball says tops and bottoms are about perfect in alighment....depth is about the same, angles are about the same.  Very close and very attractive when done.











No knife edge on the loading gate, plenty of meat to back cut it for finger access.






Time to head for the cold cold freezing workshop to finish the deal....meantime, getting close to second boil on the cylinder and screws.


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## Sharps40 (Feb 17, 2015)

Scallops are straightened and completed on a drum on the drill press.  Also, the back side of the loading gate is relieved at the same time for cold/gloved finger clearance.





















About as good as it gets.  And, I am quite pleased.


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## Sharps40 (Feb 17, 2015)

If yer still painting guns....stop it.

Why?

Because bluing is better and you can't easily remove dog hairs from a painted gun.

Cylinder and screws, etc are done and in the bag coated in oil and Rig grease awaiting completion of the frame and barrel....probably finish this one, except for the rear sight, this weekend.  I need to order a rear sight.


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## Sharps40 (Feb 18, 2015)

Getting ready to send the barreled action in for the overnight rusting.  At this point, its carded after its third cycle.  Looking just fine satiny velvety purty.  If all go's well, bluing will be completed tomorrow evening.


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## Sharps40 (Feb 19, 2015)

Resting in oil.  Looks like tonight will be cleaning and assembly.  Sooner if ice prevents Ol John Lee from getting up the driveway to work again!


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## Sharps40 (Feb 19, 2015)

Still greasy and the dog licked it and I'm still waiting on the rear sight leaf and figgerin on the ejector rod but it sure went together nice.  The out of spec grip frame was the worst part of the fit....lots of hand work to move the durn screw holes down and in to match the frame!

But, here it sits at the 95% level and if it were warm enough and I hadn't frozen a brake drum by applying the Ebrake on a durn cold day I'da might coulda done more with the ejector rod housing tonight.  But we'll see, a steel one is not off the shelf yet either....might just need steel in the final analysis.  But, should be shootable if its nice this weekend!


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## Ready 2 Hunt (Feb 20, 2015)

BEAUTIFUL nothing else to say


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## Sharps40 (Feb 20, 2015)

Almost done!


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## Sharps40 (Feb 22, 2015)

Experimenting on the aluminum ejector rod housing....already shortened at the back to fit on a true 3.5" barrel....now a notch in the side to cam the ejector button out of the way.  This will allow full removal of the cylinder pin, anytime, without removing the entire ejector rod housing.  Two benefits, no wear and tear on the threaded hole in the barrel where the ejector rod housing screw is installed and no need to shorten the head of the cylinder pin so much that its hard to grip when you do want to pull it out.  

So, hopefully the EHR ordered is in fact steel and I an shorten it for this barrel and put in a neat notch.  Then I'll have matching blued steel and no alloy but the rear sight on this fine old gun.

With the cylinder unlocked, it is lined up and the Button depressed and rotated out of the way in its new notch..







Install or withdraw the cylinder pin as the case may be...






All together and ready to go.  The notch can be made much smaller by smoothing and reshaping the ejector buttons shank.  That might be next.  And finally....function is smooth.  No catching or bouncing.  Rounded edges leading in and out and for the most part, I don't know the notch is there until I use it.






From the show side, the notch is barely noticeable.


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## Sharps40 (Feb 27, 2015)

New parts for the ejector system.  Starting with steel and we'll see how it go's.

Story ejector rod, bullseye style.  I'll probably drill it out to a ring ejector.  But for now, a tight fit in the slightly undersized steel ruger ejector rod housing (incidentally, the EHR housing is for the 3 3/4" barrel so, not too much to remove to make it fit a 3.5" barrel should I decide to use it instead of the older aluminum housing.)

First, it needs its sharp edges broken on the round shaft and the spud that leads to the bullseye button.  That and some slight reduction in diameter on the head as it won't even fit into the new steel ruger EHR housing.






Next job will be either replacing the original 3 screw spring and/or polishing out the inside of the EHR housing.  Its rough as a cob and this is as far as the spring will insert.  There will be no function using this EHR housing unless and until it is cleaned up inside and fitted for smooth action.






The original 3 screw ruger rear sight (no squashed chicken emblem) is rebuilt with new springs, new cross pin, new and longer elevation screw and a taller Hunter rear sight leaf.  The leaf comes sans white, so, its painted in before assembly.  Why use the original 3 screw sight base?  No squashed chicken emblem, no hump on the bottom of the base, the hole is cross drilled higher in the base so that its top is nearly flush with the flattopped top strap.  Neater look.  We'll have to get to the range to see if this new taller rear leaf is too tall.  With luck, it'll be about right.  Worst case, it needs light trimming to regulate the rear sights midpoint with factory loads.


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## Sharps40 (Feb 28, 2015)

Comparing the fitted aluminum Ejector housing to the new steel short (vaquero 3 3/4" barrel) ejector housing.  Some work to do on the new steel part to bring it to a fit on the Belly Gun.  Not sure if I'll file by hand or make up a cutter from a grade 5 bolt to set back the face of the sleeve that go's into the frame swell.






Bullseye ejector is converted to a ring ejector by center drilling.  Front face is heavily countersunk.  The pad of the finger or glove fits snuggly into the recess making for very positive purchase on the ejection stroke.  Looks good too.






A close fitting drill down the bore of the ejector housing removes all the burrs and bumps.....though only a bit smoother inside, now the ejector rod and original 3 screw return spring slide easily back and forth w/o binding.  The rod will need shortening.  The housing needs a bit of sanding inside in addition to shortening at the rear and finally, probably have to rust blue them both.


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## Sharps40 (Feb 28, 2015)

Well, the steel ruger ejector housing was rather more work than I like but it looks like a successful experiment in fitting up a steel ejector housing with a ring button and a simple slot to allow caming the button out of the way to fully withdraw the cylinder pin.

For starters, I finished polishing up the inside of the housing.....a bit of worn 120 on a stick and spin it with a drill.  A moments work......later all the hours and hours piled up!






Good enough inside, it'll get a final bit of polish after all the other work is done on the ejector housing.






A new tennon is cut and shaped at the back end, all hand filing with safe sided files so that the screw hole in the ejector rod lines up with the threaded hole in the front of the barrel.  The ejector rod is shortened to clear the cylinder.  And finally, a slot was filed and ground in to the race way of the housing so the Ring button can cam up and out of the way for disassembly of the revolver and full removal of the cylinder pin for cleaning.....all with out having to ever remove the ejector rod housing screw from the barrel.  It works.   It was 4 hours work.  Next time I'll just spend the $50 for a Cimarron cammed ejector housing for the 3.5" barrel.  Fully functional, but steel is much harder to file in by hand than the aluminum ejector rod housing, the aluminum one only took an hour to do!






View of the fully functional assembly from the business end.






And profiles of the fully assembled gun.  Final polish and blue of these last few parts next week and off to the range.....oh yeah, everything fits the De Santis crossdraw leather holster.  Nothing is too big, the ejector button does not cam backwards on holstering nor does it prevent holstering even though its a giant button.  I am looking forward to hitting the range soon.


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## Sharps40 (Mar 1, 2015)

Fortunately my career has advanced well beyond the point where I have to put up with stupid ****e.  So on arriving at the airport, noting my flight to KY was backed up 5 hours and backing up another 3 real soon and noting the single agent at the window to reflight a line of passengers some 200+ people long, I phoned in, cancelled my flight, rental car and hotel reservations and drove home.

Now I'll get this project done a bit early and no stupid ****e.

The EH&R polished and in the damp box for the first rusting.


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## Sharps40 (Mar 2, 2015)

All in but the shooting and sight adjustments now.

Beautiful rust black on the EH&R set now.  Running around the house shouting A Screw, A Screw, My Kingdom for a SCREW!  I misplaced the EH&R retention screw.....found it where I left it....in the safe with the revolver.






Go side, installed and looking fine.  Smooth function, no hang up in the notch noted.  We'll see how it does at the range.






Business end....three large holes.....looks like a Drilling Rifle from here....






Love handle side, unless ya carry Crossdraw, then its still Love Handle side!  I need to photo this gun in some good natural light.






A little better shot of this simple modification of the factory EH&R set up.






The button cams nicely out of the way, plenty of room to get the cylinder pin in and out of the gun for cleaning and maintenance.






This is full cartridge lift with the EH&R system shortened to fit a 3.5" long barrel and leave about 1/16" of barrel in front of the end of the EH&R housing.  I think one might just be able to go to a barrel length of 3 1/4" and still have cartridge lift that would allow extraction.  Removing the backside of the loading gate frees up more working room for fingers.....As much as I'd like to try a 3 1/4" barreled full ejection system I may make one up for me with a 3" barrel, tapered to .6" at the muzzle and NO EH&R and no swell on the show side of the frame.


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## Sharps40 (Mar 2, 2015)

Now.....does it need a screw for a lanyard loop on the butt..........


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## Sharps40 (Mar 13, 2015)

Final photo tour before range tomorrow.  Once the sights are adjusted I may tweak the headdress to reinstall some of the feathers that were lost with the initial fitting of the coin front sight.

So, here we go.  Only two boogers I feel worth mentioning.... a slight gap at the top of the left grip to frame and a bit of deep pitting around the right side cylinder pin button.  So, the dents are in the bed of the truck and its time to use it like it was ment to be used and not babied anymore!


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## Sharps40 (Mar 13, 2015)




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## mattech (Mar 14, 2015)

Very nice


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## Sharps40 (Mar 14, 2015)

Back from the range where all three firearms tested worked wonderfully.  The new S&W 457 did what all 3rd gen Smiths do....runs perfect, hits dead on the top of the front sight with 230g ball and slays steel invaders at the range all the way out to 30m with alarming regularity.  My smallest pepper popper is 12" tall and 3" wide.  With a two handed hold at 15m the 457 keeps it dancing thru an entire magazine.  So, three new mags on the way and this one is ready for service in a Bianchi 5 holster right now.

As for the 50th Anniversary 357 Blackhawk, its right on and dead reliable.  With the cylinder clicker and free spin ejector out, it functions in the manner I am accustomed to and I like it enough to begin tweaking it my way.  Bisley guts are on the way as you read this.

And to Mr. Belly Gun.  Full function and totally reliable.  The new and slightly taller Hunter rear sight leaf corrects the elevation properly and from 148g LSWC 38s to Full House 357s with 125g HP and 158g HP, there is sufficient windage and elevation in both the front and rear sights to adjust this one any way you want it.  I think it'll make a fine daily carry and sturdy workhorse and even a 25 yard deer or hog slayer.

So, to the meat and taters of the project, the culminating event, the Range Trip.

Here's the boys on the range, ready to go.






Even the heavy bullet loads show perfect indentation of the primers and no problems.  Recoil with the heavy bullets is noticeable but not telling.....however, the recoil up is rapid with the BirdsHead grip and after about 100 rounds, I noticed, Mr. Belly Gun exacted his own price for all the time spent under the file and in the boil.






This initial run was sufficient to start shaking loose all the extra oil on the gun and a good second/after bluing clean up is in order!






These are the first six shots fired at about 10 or so meters.  CCI Blazer 158g JHP from the bench.  






About 150 rounds into the testing of Mr. Belly Gun with Full House 158s and 125s, both bench and offhand, I note that he does in fact have a bit of a bite.  So, first blood for Mr. Belly Gun.






Not a cut.....abrasion.  Much the same as firing +P or 357 Mags from the tiny and light weight J frame Smiths.....  I found that I was chokeing up on the grip some.....relaxing and moving just slightly down to a better grip position and I didn't have any more problems.






And here, for fun and from the bench.  Several cylinders each of 148g 38 Special LSWC followed by 158g 357 Mags and 125g 357 Mags.  Range is 10 or so meters.  Perfect.  We clanged steel poppers and plates bench and off hand out to 30m.  Fine sight adjustments can be made once a carry load is selected.






Done and Happy.  Another good on ready to go.


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