# Advice on 70's Jukar .45 rifle



## bluedawg1 (Oct 22, 2014)

Was given this old muzzle loader last used in the 70's and the darn thing is still loaded! What steps should be taken from this point on to see if this can be safely used again ?
I am quite green to the muzzle loader world! It does use a percussion cap. Any help would be great!


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## Alan in GA (Oct 22, 2014)

*You can....*

Use a ball puller and pull the ball and charge.


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## Whiteeagle (Oct 23, 2014)

Unscrew the nipple and spray some penetrating oil down the barrel, then put some penetrating oil in the drum(remove tth screw on the side of the drum) and kill the powder to prevent possible ignition. Take a ball puller and pull the lead out. then clean the barrel with HOT water and dish detergent. Dry thoroughly, inside and out and check the bore for pitting. I had an old ml from the 1800's that was loaded when I got it in the early 60's that was in shooting condition after I got it cleared and cleaned! Good luck and HAPPY MUZZLELOADING!


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## fishtail (Oct 23, 2014)

I agree with all of the above and will expand a little on it.
At this point removal of the nipple or the barrel drum screw will likely result in wringing them off.

Remove the barrel assembly from the stock.

Cut the top out of a soup can, get a larger chemical safe container about a gallon or half gallon capacity. 

Combine one quart of acetone with one quart of transmission fluid (ATF), this is your penetrating oil.

The soup can is for placing the nipple end of the barrel in, filled to soak with the penetrating oil. The small can conserves using the oil mix. The larger container is to catch escaping penetrating oil when you fill the barrel.

With the barrel standing upright you can start by soaking one or the other or even both at the same time.

After soaking for at least 48 hours then maybe start attempting pulling the bullet. The nipple and especially the drum screw I'd put off till last if possible.

Then we can start talking about washing/brushing the barrel.


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## Alan in GA (Oct 23, 2014)

*And the reason you don't cap and...*

...shoot it,... Is because we don't know what charge may have mistakenly been used (excessive?). Or they could have double loaded it (charge/ball/charge/ball). Curiosity would cause me to measure the location of the ball in it now-how deep in referenCe to the breech plug face. 
What condition does the rifling appear to be in at muzzle (viewed from a side angle-but safer to check after charge is removed.


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## bluedawg1 (Oct 23, 2014)

Thanks guy's will pick up a ball puller and put some of these suggestions to work.


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## fishtail (Oct 23, 2014)

Alan does have a good point, especially in a 45cal.
Chances are the powder it has in it is Pyrodex. But which one?
A double charge of RS (ffg equivalent) most likely won't be a problem. It usually will push the excessive powder out the barrel and finish igniting a foot or so out the barrel. Might set the woods on fire.
But P (fffg equivalent) if double charged might be a different story, maybe even to the point of dangerous.


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## Alan in GA (Oct 31, 2014)

*how'd it go?....*

Did you get the ball pulled out? What did you find? 
I bought a Jukar 45 the other day that was/is a 'kit rifle' that was unfinished. Cheap gun,...and for some reason.... I like it. I've had several, and took my 2nd largest buck with a factory finished  CVA/Jukar 45 with a PRB years ago. Some have 66" twist, some 48" I think.
I've seen some UGLY CVA/Jukar 45 Kentucky kit rifles, but they introduced a LOT of folks to muzzle loading, and made us appreciate the work and skill it takes to make a really nice Kentucky or Pennsylvania LONG RIFLE.
The only kit rifle I made was a later CVA Kentucky and it's a 50 cal 48" twist. 
Not as nice as a T/C Seneca or Hawken, but more easily affordable! I paid $200 for my CVA Kentucky Kit rifle.


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## bluedawg1 (Nov 2, 2014)

Not pulled yet to much work going on . Possibly this week though.


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