# Framing a carport over turn around



## Luke0927 (Aug 13, 2012)

I've got a 20' wide turn around out from the garage...need to double check the length but would be roughly at 22x20 or so covered area.  I was thinking set the post 1 to 2' out from the side of the concrete where I could rock them partial or case them out.

What would be my best way in framing it up.  3 6x6 down the sides with 2x10 band on top (good enough, maybe double it?), 2x6 rafters 16" OC (or same $ and 24 be OK?) braced well roof would be 6-8/12 haven't decided.  I wouldn't need joist all the way across would I maybe at just the post as I would run a brace from each rafter to its opposite, then a knee board up almost like a truss. 

Also how high do you think I should make the opening 8'?

I really like the looks of the nice ones made with the beams in the layout of a truss but don't really have the money for that, It will be left open on the side and shingled to match the house, probably hardi and paint the end gables. Will be doing it when weather cools off a little so let me know any good ideas or suggestions.

Thanks


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## Firescooby (Aug 13, 2012)

Luke0927 said:


> I've got a 20' wide turn around out from the garage...need to double check the length but would be roughly at 22x20 or so covered area.  I was thinking set the post 1 to 2' out from the side of the concrete where I could rock them partial or case them out.
> 
> What would be my best way in framing it up.  3 6x6 down the sides with 2x10 band on top (good enough, maybe double it?), 2x6 rafters 16" OC (or same $ and 24 be OK?) braced well roof would be 6-8/12 haven't decided.  I wouldn't need joist all the way across would I maybe at just the post as I would run a brace from each rafter to its opposite.
> 
> ...



I'd like to know also.

I want to do something similar for my camper. Mine would need to be about 40' long, 10-12' wide, and 13' clearance.

Metal building this size is about $3500, wondering how much something like this would cost.


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## Luke0927 (Aug 13, 2012)

I haven't priced any lumber out yet, but if you did the labor yourself would be a whole lot less, especially if you plan it out where you don't waste material, can use full sheets of plywood etc...Also if it something you don't mind using ruff cut lumber from the saw mill you could save some good money if you have one close by.


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## XIronheadX (Aug 13, 2012)

From what it sounds like. If you are spanning 20 to 22 ft. You need either a beam for a ridge or a beam in the middle to help brace the roof. Otherwise it's going to want to spread at the outsides in the middle. Beam the ridge and use 2x8 rafters, or beam in the ceiling with bracing every 4 ft on a double runner under 2x6 rafters. Bracing horizontal from rafter to rafter is just a wind beam aka collar tie. The rafters themself will sag with the weight of asphalt shingles. Probably find a deal on some trusses over craigslist or something. That would save you money. If you go over 16"oc you will have to go to a thicker plywood. (35 years framing exp.)


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## safebuilder (Aug 13, 2012)

Steel for clear span...not as expensive as you would tend to believe.


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## Luke0927 (Aug 13, 2012)

Yes I would do a ridge beam with rafters.  What would be best 2x10 or 2x12? Would probably notch in my band around the top too.  stick rafters braced that should be pretty solid right at 16 in oc Ill keep an eye out for trusses looking to do this end of next month or so, so have some time to plan it.  I was just thinking stick framing since I have a connection for lumber.


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## harryrichdawg (Aug 13, 2012)

I would not try to span 22 feet without a center post unless I was using steel.  I would build a double carport (2 11' wide slips).  I'd use 6x6 posts, 2x10 joists, and 2x8 rafters on 16" centers.  It won't be cheap.


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## XIronheadX (Aug 14, 2012)

Luke0927 said:


> Yes I would do a ridge beam with rafters.  What would be best 2x10 or 2x12? Would probably notch in my band around the top too.  stick rafters braced that should be pretty solid right at 16 in oc Ill keep an eye out for trusses looking to do this end of next month or so, so have some time to plan it.  I was just thinking stick framing since I have a connection for lumber.



LVL. Engineered wood beam.


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## aka rotten (Aug 14, 2012)

Just remember what ever you build,dont forget about gas trucks,fire trucks,whatever that may have to pass under in emergency.


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## Luke0927 (Aug 14, 2012)

Nothing would have to go under basically you pull up the drive way drive straight into the garage this would be off to the left.

I really don't want to put a center post since it kills putting larger items under it when I want to.  

I had thought about LVL, metal seems like it would be lot of trouble.  If I went with LVL rated for that span, notched in on the 6x6 that should be solid and good for the long run, right?

For the length, since I will have 3 post keep the 2x10's down the sides or just spend the money and do LVL all around?  

That with an LVL ridge, I'm going to need to real good friends to put all this up!

If I wanted to look at Trusses where would be the best bet, that would save a lot of time, would be nice to see what difference is with LVL and rafters vs truss.


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## 1gr8bldr (Aug 14, 2012)

Beam the front and the back, buy trusses, about $45 each. A 22ft building at 2ft OC will have 12. That's around $600. The truss company will spec what size LVL you will need to span the full length. Make sure you account for uplift [straps from truss to beams] Your post are the only thing you have to get side to side strength. They should be in the ground at least 5 ft or more with concrete [concrete for stability and weight for uplift] LVL's are bad about "cupping". Once nailed together, add some screws to keep it together


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## Luke0927 (Aug 14, 2012)

Thanks for help folks I think that is the way to go.


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## jimbo4116 (Aug 18, 2012)

Luke0927 said:


> Yes I would do a ridge beam with rafters.  What would be best 2x10 or 2x12? Would probably notch in my band around the top too.  stick rafters braced that should be pretty solid right at 16 in oc Ill keep an eye out for trusses looking to do this end of next month or so, so have some time to plan it.  I was just thinking stick framing since I have a connection for lumber.



If you are going to basically pole barn it with posts on the corners and stringers go with trusses.  Cheaper than you think and you may be able to find some overuns.

Seal the underside of the trusses for lateral strength.


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## Havana Dude (Aug 18, 2012)

XIronheadX said:


> From what it sounds like. If you are spanning 20 to 22 ft. You need either a beam for a ridge or a beam in the middle to help brace the roof. Otherwise it's going to want to spread at the outsides in the middle. Beam the ridge and use 2x8 rafters, or beam in the ceiling with bracing every 4 ft on a double runner under 2x6 rafters. Bracing horizontal from rafter to rafter is just a wind beam aka collar tie. The rafters themself will sag with the weight of asphalt shingles. Probably find a deal on some trusses over craigslist or something. That would save you money. If you go over 16"oc you will have to go to a thicker plywood. (35 years framing exp.)





1gr8bldr said:


> Beam the front and the back, buy trusses, about $45 each. A 22ft building at 2ft OC will have 12. That's around $600. The truss company will spec what size LVL you will need to span the full length. Make sure you account for uplift [straps from truss to beams] Your post are the only thing you have to get side to side strength. They should be in the ground at least 5 ft or more with concrete [concrete for stability and weight for uplift] LVL's are bad about "cupping". Once nailed together, add some screws to keep it together



Spot on advice. Your gable ends do not need beams. You can build down(false beam) to even up the look then tie the false beam in with plywood to the gable truss. Me personally, I would vinyl/wrap with metal, all exposed wood, except posts.


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## lagrangedave (Aug 18, 2012)

Call around to the local truss manufacturers, they often get stuck with special orders. I built a clear span 24x24 greatroom and got the trusses for 1/2 price.


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## Luke0927 (Aug 18, 2012)

I went out an measured it 24x16 (maybe even hand pour another 2' of concrete) and make it 24x18 would do it fine.  I think Truss will also be best bet too.  Found some on CL 24' for $41 but only 4/12.

So with say and 18' length, would you run 3 6x6 and notch in a doubled 2x10 or spend the money on LVL.  I think If i did 3 6x6 on 18' and being notched in no need for the LVL.


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## Havana Dude (Aug 18, 2012)

Luke0927 said:


> I went out an measured it 24x16 (maybe even hand pour another 2' of concrete) and make it 24x18 would do it fine.  I think Truss will also be best bet too.  Found some on CL 24' for $41 but only 4/12.
> 
> So with say and 18' length, would you run 3 6x6 and notch in a doubled 2x10 or spend the money on LVL.  I think If i did 3 6x6 on 18' and being notched in no need for the LVL.



This should be fine. Maybe go 2x12. 9 ft span may require a lam beam. You could provide some extra support by running some permanent bracing from each post at a 45 degree angle up to the bottom of the beam, if using 2x10.


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