# Pole Barn for a house



## rjcruiser (Mar 7, 2016)

I started another thread about a metal building home but now am also looking at post frame building...aka pole barn. Obviously, steel lasts longer, but are there any big things that would sway one from getting a wooden post frame barn compared to a metal frame barn?  Just trying to think through everything before moving ahead. 

Location is going to be Walton Co.


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## KKrueger (Mar 7, 2016)

I don't have an answer but would be very interested in seeing it come together.  I would really like to go this route as well.


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## tree cutter 08 (Mar 7, 2016)

I would rather have the wood. Easier to work with in my opinion. A lot of timber frame homes are built on slab. I've seen a lot of pole barns built, then slab poured around it. I would pour slab first with anchors for post embedded in concrete that way no wood is in the ground. I like the looks of the barn homes but there's pretty expensive. If you build frame with post and timbers years u still have to go back and fill in with sheathing and studs. Little more involved than just stick building but if done right would be very strong. Cheapest way to build I think is on slab, basic retctangle shape outer walls and trusses, straight run roof, no hips, valleys or dormers.


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## rjcruiser (Mar 9, 2016)

Thanks for the insight.

Type of wood make a huge difference?  Do I need to go Cedar on the siding?  It will be painted, so that should be some protection against the elements and insects...but never had a home/barn with wood siding.


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## jimbo4116 (Mar 9, 2016)

rjcruiser said:


> I started another thread about a metal building home but now am also looking at post frame building...aka pole barn. Obviously, steel lasts longer, but are there any big things that would sway one from getting a wooden post frame barn compared to a metal frame barn?  Just trying to think through everything before moving ahead.
> 
> Location is going to be Walton Co.



Posts/poles have a shelf life when buried.  I would look into anchors for posts. Google it.  Can be anchored to a slab or to concrete piers if you are wanting a raised floor.

Check with County Building Inspector as to what is allowed for residential construction.

Never have used post anchors but I closed in a small pole barn that was being used for a "carport".  It was anchored to a slab.  40x24 10ft high. Had been free standing for 15 years.


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## T-N-T (Mar 9, 2016)

Wood homes require maintenance.   Be it paint or stain or sealer.  Unless you just want to let it weather...
Metal buildings might need a paint job at some point but not nearly as often.
If I were not building a traditional house, it would have to be a metal building for pure maintenance reasons.


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## tree cutter 08 (Mar 9, 2016)

Our old house was wood siding. Stained it when we built but needed it again when we sold 8 years later. House were building now will have white pine board and batten siding. I know its more maintence but love the look. A few days every 6 or 8 years aint to bad but the stain ain't cheap.


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## Havana Dude (Mar 9, 2016)

Posts simply set in anchors will not work. Your building will fall over, simple as that. Building walls will keep that from happening, but if your going to fill in the gaps between posts, why not just frame it up house style?


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## jimbo4116 (Mar 9, 2016)

Havana Dude said:


> Posts simply set in anchors will not work. Your building will fall over, simple as that. Building walls will keep that from happening, but if your going to fill in the gaps between posts, why not just frame it up house style?



Have to disagree with you.  Like I said the pole barn I closed in had been free standing and was 24' clear span.
Of course it had heavy bracing at each post to the the header.

That bracing was remove as we built stud wall between the posts.

I had stood for over 15 years as free standing pole barn.


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## southernman13 (Mar 9, 2016)

*Barn*



Havana Dude said:


> Posts simply set in anchors will not work. Your building will fall over, simple as that. Building walls will keep that from happening, but if your going to fill in the gaps between posts, why not just frame it up house style?


I'd agree with this. I've been back and forth on all of these scenarios and still haven't made a move. Even burying th post they gotta last for quite sometime I would think. I know I'm going steel cause I just bought a bunch of beams!


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## southernman13 (Mar 9, 2016)

Also don't know about the cedar siding. I just bought some and it really expensive. I love cedar but not sure on a complete building how it compares


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## Miguel Cervantes (Mar 10, 2016)

rjcruiser said:


> I started another thread about a metal building home but now am also looking at post frame building...aka pole barn. Obviously, steel lasts longer, but are there any big things that would sway one from getting a wooden post frame barn compared to a metal frame barn?  Just trying to think through everything before moving ahead.
> 
> Location is going to be Walton Co.



I like where your going with your thinking. Perhaps consider a hybrid of both. A steel frame structure and wrap the steel beams and apply steel powder coated plating to give the appearance of post & beam construction. 

Sort of what I did with this Pavillion a couple of years ago to lend the rustic character to the design without the expense of P&B construction. 

The steel bones of the structure would eliminate the exposure of your main supports to termites (not if but when in Ga) and would give you more flexibility in design for open span construction and floor plan layout. 

Not a real beam on this project.


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## Havana Dude (Mar 10, 2016)

jimbo4116 said:


> Have to disagree with you.  Like I said the pole barn I closed in had been free standing and was 24' clear span.
> Of course it had heavy bracing at each post to the the header.
> 
> That bracing was remove as we built stud wall between the posts.
> ...



I can't argue with past success. But it is plain physics. Bracing as you stated is why the building stood all those years. I had a customer insist on building a pole barn this way. Long story short, he had to come back and have the posts wrapped with brick to stabilize, as I said he would have to. A simple pole barn, sitting in anchors on top of concrete will not last. I promise you it will fall over.


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## Dirtroad Johnson (Mar 10, 2016)

I have a wood barn with cypress siding that was built in 01- 02. Two years ago we decided to have a cabin - camphouse built & we went with a 30 x 65 cement slab with red iron metal building. 10' x 30' shelter across front with 15' x 30' shelter across back with remainder 30' x 40' enclosed. To me if I had to choose 1 over the other it would be the red iron building hands down. Red iron with 26 gauge metal with insulated walls & ceilings is hard to beat & very low maintenance. You save a ton on labor with red iron over wood unless you are doing all the work yourself.


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## rjcruiser (Mar 10, 2016)

Appreciate the input....and I've thought about doing both (setting the posts/beams on top of the concrete vs setting them in the ground).  I think setting them in the ground is the best way to go.  I think with proper preparation, it is going to last...and I don't see termites being more of an issue with a post frame construction than with a traditional stick built home.  Both are going to need protection.

Here's a picture of what we're thinking....only no stalls on the main floor...just all residential with garage/shop on one side.

I will say, if my wife and I end up doing this, we're planning on documenting everything along the way.  My wife has a diy decorating blog that she does and this will be a major project that she'll blog about.  

It seems like there are a lot of people looking into the barndominium style homes and not a lot of info out there about it....so, maybe our trial can help others out 

Appreciate the input from y'all...I've never had a house built...never had a barn built...so, y'alls input is welcomed


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## Dr. Strangelove (Mar 10, 2016)

A friend of mine in upstate NY converted an old cattle barn on family property into a home. It works well but he is going to run into problems down the road if he or any of the of he other family members wish to sell.  (So far as dividing the land, the farm is right next door, etc.

I'm sure you've thought of this, but be careful not to build something that is going to be hard to sell should you ever need to.  You may say you never will, but a hard lesson I've learned over the last few years is never say never.  Life has a way of coming at you from ways that you never expected.


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## tree cutter 08 (Mar 10, 2016)

Only problem with setting them in the ground is it a direct path for termites to come right into your home. I've looked into and researched all options in the last few years. I try to take a few pics tommrow of what were doing. Stick frame with exposed post and beams. I've had logs sawn for 3 years now and I guess over 50 k board feet of lumber.


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## Slingblade (Mar 11, 2016)

Just a thought regarding setting the poles in the ground...has anybody thought of spraying the end of the pole that will be in contact with the ground with line-x or Rhino lining to a point just above the slab?  


_Posted  from Gon.com App  for  Android_


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## rjcruiser (Mar 11, 2016)

Slingblade said:


> Just a thought regarding setting the poles in the ground...has anybody thought of spraying the end of the pole that will be in contact with the ground with line-x or Rhino lining to a point just above the slab?
> 
> 
> _Posted  from Gon.com App  for  Android_



That's what I was thinking about...wrapping in heavy duty plastic liner to create a barrier for termites. But....barriers can always be compromised....but don't see that being any different than a slab being the barrier.


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## Stroker (Mar 11, 2016)

There are sleeves made from either heavy duty plastic or PVC sleeves available for setting treated post being set in the ground. They are designed to protect the post from any soil, gravel, or concrete contact and provide drainage and air circulation around the post to help prevent or eliminate rot. The top of the sleeve is set above grade to help direct water away from the post. Found them online after I built my 30x50 pole barn. I used  PT 6x6 post. I then formed in a section 30x30 and poured a slab. I then came back and framed in between the post using 2x6 studs and sheathed it in T111 siding. The 2x6 studs give extra support on the clear span ends since mine has 12' clearance from slab to to bottom of trusses, plus the 2x6 studs will make insulating and interior wall sheathing much easier . I've given the pole barn house some thought. Biggest issue for me is the plumbing, 100% against burying any sewer or water lines under 4" of concrete, just asking for trouble down the road is my opinion.


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## jimbo4116 (Mar 12, 2016)

tree cutter 08 said:


> Only problem with setting them in the ground is it a direct path for termites to come right into your home. I've looked into and researched all options in the last few years. I try to take a few pics tommrow of what were doing. Stick frame with exposed post and beams. I've had logs sawn for 3 years now and I guess over 50 k board feet of lumber.



You would need to treat for termites if any other untreated wood products were used even down to the cabinets.  I have seen where termites came down from gutters and ate up studs.


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## Miguel Cervantes (Mar 12, 2016)

Stroker said:


> Biggest issue for me is the plumbing, 100% against burying any sewer or water lines under 4" of concrete, just asking for trouble down the road is my opinion.



It happens thousands of times a day in new construction across America. 

Termites can go through a crack 1/64th of an inch, so when you're talking slab you are talking tons of opportunities for termites to enter. 

The best insurance against termite damage is proper treatment and monitoring. Outside of that, in Georgia, it's not a matter of "If" you'll get them, but "WHEN".

This is the reason I suggested a hybrid of the two. Steel support structure on slab and wrap your beams and create a false beam project to look however you want. (true post and beam construction isn't cheap) Anyway, this will minimize the wood exposed to ground contact, ie, burying the main support post and pouring around them. By the time you realize you have termites in that type of construction it is too late and way too expensive to fix.


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## westcobbdog (Mar 12, 2016)

Miguel Cervantes said:


> It happens thousands of times a day in new construction across America.
> 
> Termites can go through a crack 1/64th of an inch, so when you're talking slab you are talking tons of opportunities for termites to enter.
> 
> ...



Millions of homes built on slabs, including mine. No problems with buried plumbing.
Agent in my office went home one day to her slab home in East Cobb and had a 10 inch termite stalagmite sticking straight up thru her carpet. Time for a termidor treatment.


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## Miguel Cervantes (Mar 12, 2016)

westcobbdog said:


> Millions of homes built on slabs, including mine. No problems with buried plumbing.
> Agent in my office went home one day to her slab home in East Cobb and had a 10 inch termite stalagmite sticking straight up thru her carpet. Time for a termidor treatment.



I assume you were agreeing with me?


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## MudDucker (Mar 12, 2016)

I have a hybrid.  Steel frame wrapped and balloon framed with wood.  I did this to get big spans for second floor.

There are steel brackets available to sink into concrete and then bolt timber to that are stronger than a post concreted in the ground.  They are stainless and they are not cheap.


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## T.P. (Mar 13, 2016)

I'm not sure why steel embedments would need to be stainless? Every steel framed building ever built is buried in concrete with no stainless being used.


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## shane72 (Mar 24, 2016)

look up sandcreek post and beam i have wired a few of there barn home combos


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## no clever name (Mar 28, 2016)

If you're serious about building a post frame house, you really need to get with an engineer that's "familiar" with post frame building to give you guidance.  

The National Frame Builders Association and Frame building news both both have a lot of technical articles about frame building in general and some about post frame homes.  

There are several products that either protect or raise the post/poles above ground level to eliminate ground contact.  You have a few versions of the post sleeve that stroker mentioned and several cantilever options for the post using concrete columns or steel inserts and offsets. 

Here's an article that shows one version of the cantilever column but any competent structural engineer could design something similar to cantilever the post off of a column or the foundation.  https://www.permacolumn.com/images/articles/Rural_Builder_Concrete_Piers.pdf

It's too bad you couldn't have gone to the frame builders expo held earlier this month.  It has everything you ever wanted to see about frame building in one place.

If you need specifics on the substrates, paint systems or warranties for metal panels let me know.  I can give you as much or as little info as you want.


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## ripplerider (Apr 3, 2016)

tree cutter 08 said:


> Our old house was wood siding. Stained it when we built but needed it again when we sold 8 years later. House were building now will have white pine board and batten siding. I know its more maintence but love the look. A few days every 6 or 8 years aint to bad but the stain ain't cheap.



I went with this and I love it. Be sure to use the 2", my brother economized with 1" and hes had problems with knots popping out, minor cracks etc. I havent had any problems at all like that. If you put it on yourself be ready for a slow, hard job if you do it right and caulk the fool out of it. I hired a very"ticky" carpenter to help me and we put that stuff up right, using a furniture clamp or even 2 put together to pull each run down tight. Some of it was pretty crooked and bowed even with us picking through it at the lumberyard. My brothers a house painter and he put 3 coats of stain on it with me brushing it in with a painbrush on a pole for the higher stuff. It's been 5 yrs. now and it's just now starting to look like it could use another coat. It will last till next summer easy, I have enough stain to go around it twice more.


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