# Bluing with Drano Kitchen Crystals



## Sharps40 (Nov 10, 2014)

First experiment.  Satisfactory results.  Second experiment will be with polished parts, a bit less heat and a longer boil....but for now, on to the show and tell of it.

In any event, the proportions and types of chemicals (except for the aluminum bits which are not in concentration enough to kill the bath) are about the same as commercial bluing salts.

First, its lye and nitrates and boiling at 250 to 300+ degrees.  So, sleeves, pants legs, gloves and most important, splash goggles.  Vinegar near by to douse with if splashed on the skin.  Extra caution all o the time....just like when I used to hot tank blue with Brownells solutions.







An acid test basically.  No cleaning, no polish, no nothing...just dirty rusty parts with lots of bare areas to go in the hot tank.
















I mixed strong.  4 pints (8 cups) of double filtered water and 5 cans of Drano Kitchen Crystals.  The bubbling reaction of making up the mix rapidly brought the water to 250F.  Lots of fumes.  Had to move away from the pot till the reaction stopped.  After that, no bad fumes....just stinging all over any exposed skin....the lye reacting with the sweat!






The old banged up parts are in, the pot on the heat and the candy thermometer reads 300F and a nice slow boil.  (I probably have the solution oversaturated and need to add water to start the slow boil at 260 to 270 F.


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## Sharps40 (Nov 10, 2014)

20 minutes at a slow boil, average temps below 320F and that's prolly not enough time and too much heat.  Acid test though, dirty unpolished oily parts are in there.  Just to see if it'll work.  So, times up and I'm heating clean water for a boiling rinse.






Based on my experience with rust bluing, I'll betcha theres some bluing under there...this side of the barrel was worn to the white before...(Temps too high I think that's why all the extra red rust like a long sit in the damp box for rust bluing....)






Carded and oiled.  Success.  Bare areas blued....not as dark as factory but then I did no prep either.  The white side of the barrel is black and so is the bearing of the cylinder face.






The cut end of the barrel and the polished gripping end of the cylinder pin look super, dark black.  Of course, these were likely the cleanest portions of the parts dropped in the tank.






The cylinder is pitted with age and spotty due to some differences in the color of the factory blue and this blue but, durn, no turn line and all the silver areas are at least deep grey black.  I think a good polish will result in a very fine blue!






Same on the cylinder pin and EHR button.  Polished areas look fantastic.  Areas there were worn white are blackened but the bits of original factory blue show a bit darker.  But, if yer doin screws and pins, toss em in, no need to polish, I think they'll come out dandy!


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## jglenn (Nov 11, 2014)

run around 260 - 270  degrees or so and you should be fine..  a lot of metal will turn a bit red is you get it too hot.


if anyone tries this be SURE and use heavy rubber gloves, a face mask  and a acid proof apron. lye is some nasty stuff to get on bare skin...  the fumes alone will rust anything around...

these days I use express blue which is a faster form of rust bluing or let Larry Rook hot blue it for me. he is a member here. Larry uses Brownells oxynate #7


http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...bluing-chemicals/express-blue-1-prod8795.aspx


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## Sharps40 (Nov 11, 2014)

I used a lot of ox 7, great stuff.  Spensive but worth the price.


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## Sharps40 (Nov 11, 2014)

Relearning what I used to know about hot tank bluing.  I need three pots, not two.  Salts, hot water rinse, oil holding tank.

So....some light spotting cause I handled the parts with a damp towel, an oil holding tank would have eliminated that but a buff with 0000 and wd40 evened things up and I think I have a process that gives a very acceptable utility grade finish if not the potential for a much finer finish.  

To the second test.

I controlled heat thru saturation.  Started with extra water and the boil came on rolling at 260, carried it up and used saturation to maintain a 280 to 300 F range rolling boil for 40 minutes.

I need to keep parts off the bottom to prevent bronze tint too....hot down there on the bottom.  But....

These parts were wire brushed then buffed on the cloth wheel with #2 stainless polish to a mirror shine.  The black is mirror as well.  It has the watery translucent look of highly polished and blackened steel.  Cleaning the parts before hand will be a critical step to ensure the salts bite and blacken.  But, no spots and I think if nothing else, this is a fine method for blackening small/hard to handle parts or ones with crazy contours that don't lend themselves well to rust bluing and carding.






The barrel stub received a wire wheel brushing only down to clean metal.  The fine speckling and pitting remains.  The front sight is harder, it greyed but did not blacken.  The barrel blackened nicely and provides a great utility finish or better.











The cylinder received a wire wheel brushing to white.  Then a 120 sandpaper polish around the circumference.  Then a 220 sandpaper polish around the circumference.

Like the barrel, I am very happy with this finish.  The sanding removed almost all of the freckles and the cylinder is a lovely satin black.  I spotted it a bit but I believe adding a motor oil or light mineral oil soak after the hot water rinse will eliminate the handling that leads to spots!  Of the parts, the cylinder looks the best, not because its blacker or shinier but because the freckles/pits went away in the preparation.  I'll be anxious to try this process on a bead blast/sand blast finish as well.  











I'm not ready to blue a whole gun this way......I'll reserve Slow Rust Blue as the Master Finish.  But, I'm pleased to be a bit down the road to a blackening process that will save me several days engagement over rustbluing and save me having to polish, coat, boil, card and repeat all them small bits!

More to follow.  I gotta find some more stuff to play with in the salts.


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## TrailBlazinMan (Nov 12, 2014)

Brownells has great instructions on using the Oxynate #7. Ive been using that in the shop with great results. Interesting projects though!


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## guesswho (Nov 12, 2014)

I like, you make it look like anyone can do that.


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## guesswho (Nov 12, 2014)

What would be the suggested water to Drano ratio?  I'm interested in trying this on the old 94 parts that I cant get to hold Dura Coat.


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## jglenn (Nov 12, 2014)

this formula is widely used by folks wanting to DIY

http://www.blindhogg.com/homemadesalts.html

it works


PS use Cerakote  verses duracoat


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## Wild Turkey (Nov 12, 2014)

A suggestion.
Take your parts to an auto shop and glass blast them before u blue.
it really makes a difference on the finish.


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## Sharps40 (Nov 14, 2014)

Yes it does.  If you want a very matted finish that holds tons of oil for protection, its a perfect/hunters finish.  Its not very durable though in terms of marks.  I've found that finish to be a good quickie on a rough gun but its worse than matted/brushed stainless for showing marks.  

Polish, up to various levels brings up a more traditional sheen up to that watery tranlucent blue black of highly polished metal and is overall, more mark resistant.


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## TrailBlazinMan (Nov 14, 2014)

Ive found the best compromise finish is a blasted finish that has been carded. Not too shiny, but the high areas have been knocked down so that wear doesnt really show.


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