# 30" draw?



## deerhunter70 (Jun 27, 2009)

It amazes me how many people will set their draw length way to long...You have guys 5 ft. nothing trying to shoot 29-30 in. draw lengths. I'm almost 6 ft. and shoot 28.5"...Although speed is important to me it is not everything...Quit trying to be impressive and shoot your correct draw length and it will help your accuracy!!!!!


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## Jody Hawk (Jun 28, 2009)

Exactly. I see bows all the time on here for sale with 29-30" draw lengths. I got these long skinny arms and I shoot a 28" draw length. Hard for me to believe that all these folks have longer draw lengths than me. I've always heard shooting too short of a draw length is better than shooting too long of a draw length. Check out this article.....

The majority of compound bow owners set their bows for too much draw length, which results in poor shooting form - inaccuracy - and painful string slap on the forearm.  You will better enjoy - and be more successful with your new bow when it is fitted properly to your body.  And REMEMBER!  If in doubt, choose a little LESS draw length rather than a little more. 

http://www.huntersfriend.com/draw-length-weight.htm


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## WSB (Jun 28, 2009)

Yeah, I'm 6'1" and I shoot a 28" draw. Got a friend that's 5' 7" mabey and he shoots a 30". I've told him that's why his shoots are all over.


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## trx125 (Jun 28, 2009)

I have gorilla arms!


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## bowhunter2246 (Jun 28, 2009)

I'm 5'7(5'8) on a good day. i shoot a 29" draw and feel very good with my shooting, too me if i shoot anything shooter then 28.5 my arm is bent too much for me too stay accurate. But then again i may be one of those 1:100000000 guys that are short with long arms?


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## DaddyPaul (Jun 28, 2009)

I'm 6'3" and am currently shooting my AlphaMax 35 at 29.75"s and may end up going slightly longer, not sure yet.  Being too short can be as problematic as being too long in my opinion.  The idea is to experiment, consult a good pro shop, whatever it takes, but do something to ensure yours is spot on.

Click on this link and pay close attention to what Larry says at about 1:00 minute in:  http://www.bowtube.com/media/361/MISS_ME/


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## stuckbuck (Jun 28, 2009)

I am 6'2" and I shoot 29" I am very comfortable. I even have a slight bend in my arm, and I have never in 9 years of shooting a compound ever hit my arm. It's a different story with my longbow, an arm guard is a must!


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## GusGus (Jun 28, 2009)

Im 5'10" and I shoot a 26" draw. Could probably stand to go to 26 1/4" but I shoot pretty well as it is. I have short arms. I tried shooting at 27" and just couldnt make it happen. I think im gonna pick up some 26 1/2" mods and try it since I havent had my bow set up since I put the new string on.


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## deerhunter70 (Jun 28, 2009)

DaddyPaul said:


> I'm 6'3" and am currently shooting my AlphaMax 35 at 29.75"s and may end up going slightly longer, not sure yet.  Being too short can be as problematic as being too long in my opinion.  The idea is to experiment, consult a good pro shop, whatever it takes, but do something to ensure yours is spot on.
> 
> Click on this link and pay close attention to what Larry says at about 1:00 minute in:  http://www.bowtube.com/media/361/MISS_ME/



I want an alpha-max so bad....but I disagree with you on your comment some what..I'm not saying too short can't be a problem but it is alot better to be too short than too long.. I could shoot 29" draw (with release) ok but opted to go 28.5 just to be safe and more efficient..


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## DaddyPaul (Jun 28, 2009)

deerhunter70 said:


> I want an alpha-max so bad....but I disagree with you on your comment some what..I'm not saying too short can't be a problem but it is alot better to be too short than too long.. I could shoot 29" draw (with release) ok but opted to go 28.5 just to be safe and more efficient..



While it is certainly OK to disagree I just don't know why you would want to be "too short" or "too long" when you can be "spot on"? 

Too short can cause you to lean your head into the string, cause your bow shoulder to slide up instead of staying down and relaxed, cause neck and shoulder discomfort, make it difficult to shoot with proper back tension if your arm muscles are holding all of the weight (release side), cause you to bend your arm too much and thus lose bone to bone support..........................

It's all good dude, just make sure your draw length is right and there'll be no worries!


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## shakey hunter (Jun 29, 2009)

I'm 5'10 and have a 28" draw.I feel good at that. The way I was told to set my draw is ruffly about half of your height.


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## DaddyPaul (Jun 29, 2009)

shakey hunter said:


> I'm 5'10 and have a 28" draw.I feel good at that. The way I was told to set my draw is ruffly about half of your height.



I don't think that formula will hold water for most people?  

You are 70 inches tall and shooting a 28 DL.  That is about 7 inches shy of half your height.  I'm 75 inches tall and only shoot 29.75s, half would be 37.5.


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## Southern Bucks (Jun 29, 2009)

*Draw*

Formula for draw length

Messure you wing span from tip to tip

Subtract that by 15 and then divide that number by 2

Example

        75 inches -  15 = 60 / 2 = 30 inch draw
        69 inches -  15 = 54 / 2 = 27 inch draw


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## DaddyPaul (Jun 29, 2009)

Southern Bucks said:


> Formula for draw length
> 
> Messure you wing span from tip to tip
> 
> ...




Pretty accurate for most people but something GRIV brought up that I never thought about is the possibility of both sides of your body not mirroring each other.  That will throw that number off slightly.

I like his suggestion of standing with your fist against a wall, head centered between shoulders and hips.  Turn head slightly as if to look through peep, then have someone measure from wall to corner of mouth.

I think doing them both and taking an average of the numbers will get you really close to dead nuts!


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## reylamb (Jun 29, 2009)

Yup, I used to swear by the wingspan formulas......but GRIV has shown me the error of my ways, which Paul pointed out above.

Too short can be as bad, or worse than too long, but it really depends on how we define too.  If we are talking +-1/2" I would rather be 1/2 short than 1/2 long.  Anything more tha 1/2 short is too short and all of the problems Paul just listed will come into play, and at the end of the day accuracy suffers again.


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## Killdee (Jun 29, 2009)

I have been thinking my DL was a little long, thats what Ive been blaming my inconsistent grouping anyway. Im 6-1 and do have long arms and am currently shooting a 30"bow. With the wingspan method Im at 29.5 with the fist method Im at 29.75. I just found a set of 29.5 cams for my LX at AT. Do yall think I would be safe to go with that?


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## DaddyPaul (Jun 29, 2009)

Killdee said:


> I have been thinking my DL was a little long, thats what Ive been blaming my inconsistent grouping anyway. Im 6-1 and do have long arms and am currently shooting a 30"bow. With the wingspan method Im at 29.5 with the fist method Im at 29.75. I just found a set of 29.5 cams for my LX at AT. Do yall think I would be safe to go with that?



The only unknown is what the bow's actual DL will be with the 29.5 cam on it.  I assume by LX you mean a Mathews.  The Mathews bows I've owned ran a little long in the DL department when the cam was rotated per their recommendation.  Most were really close to 1/2 long.  Just something to think about.


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## Killdee (Jun 29, 2009)

DaddyPaul said:


> The only unknown is what the bow's actual DL will be with the 29.5 cam on it.  I assume by LX you mean a Mathews.  The Mathews bows I've owned ran a little long in the DL department when the cam was rotated per their recommendation.  Most were really close to 1/2 long.  Just something to think about.


OK, I guess I need to have someone take a look see and tell me what I need before I buy. I wish one of you guru's lived in Marietta and could help me out with this. We dont have a shop close by.


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## CamoCop (Jun 30, 2009)

i shoot a 30" arrow (actual draw length is between 31.5 to 32 inches) and am 6'2" tall.  i also bottom out my bow when i pull it back with a slight bend in my left arm.  i don't believe that is too long for me.


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## string music (Jun 30, 2009)

I am a true 29 1/2 , but shoot a 29" with a d-loop because I shoot better groups this way


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## DaddyPaul (Jun 30, 2009)

string music said:


> I am a true 29 1/2 , but shoot a 29" with a d-loop because I shoot better groups this way



Again, not that I'm trying to start an argument of nit pick but the d loop doesn't affect your "draw length".  All it affects is where your anchor point lies on your face, jawbone, etc.  The draw length of your bow doesn't change a lick if you put on a really short loop or a 2" job, only your anchor point.  

Most people find that with their bow set up so that the string falls somewhere close to the corner of their mouth at full draw they are really close to where they need to be.  Then set the loop length to get your release hand where you like it and to make sure your release side shoulder blade is in the proper position.


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## ddd-shooter (Jun 30, 2009)

6'4" with a 30.5 inch DL. Gotta love monkey arms. Good speed!!


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## archerholic (Jun 30, 2009)

Wow, lots of different opinions on this thread. I am not new to this game. I have LITERALLY slung thousands upon thousands of arrows. I have competed in the pro circuit around the country both in world competition and good 'ol hometown 3d tournaments. I have shot with the best of the best and today they are still some of my best friends. I would like to think that I do have the qualified knowledge to share some of my experience here. 
1st, I have witnessed this for years and history has proven that if you shoot a bow with a longer draw length than what your true draw length is then there is a 99.99999% chance you are not shooting as good as you could be. If you shoot a bow at your true draw length or just a little shorter than what your true draw length is then you will find that your groups will be better and you will struggle less when having to shoot in odd positions (uphill, downhill, twisted on a deer stand, etc...). It was mentioned in this thread that a 'D' loop does not change your draw length. This comment will be debated until the end of time. My thoughts are this; The valley of a bow will not change regardless of any 'D' loop length. If I have a 30" draw length bow and I put a 5 inch (hypothetical) 'd' loop on this bow the valley of the bow will still be at 30". Yet if I want to anchor in the exact same spot that I normally anchor then I had better have a 35" draw length (remember - hypothetical example) in order for the bow to be in the valley because I have this 5" 'd' loop. Or using the same scenario as above if my draw length was 30", and my bow is a 30" draw length bow and I have a 'd' loop that is 5" then if I was to draw the bow back to my normal anchor spot the bow obviously will not be at full draw nor will the bow reside in the valley at full draw because I have a 5" 'D' loop. In conclusion, no, a d loop does not change the draw length of the *BOW*. But a 'd' loop can absolutely change your anchor point while in essence causing your draw length to change. Not the bows draw length. If you made sure you pulled a 30" bow back to the valley, and you had a 1" d loop on the string and then did the same thing again with a 2" d loop then you will anchor in different spots if you are in the valley of the 30" bow. The bows designed draw length did not change but you caused yourself to anchor in a different spot which can mean that you just forced your draw length to change. Or you may consider that your anchor point changed. So in reference to the comment that 'String Music' made he did need to shoot a  29" draw length bow with a 1/2 'd' loop in order to anchor at the exact same spot. Had he drawn a 29 1/2 bow with a 1/2" 'd' loop that would have caused his draw length to feel more like a 30" draw length which of course would have been too long and causing his accuracy to decline. So due to the 'd' loop he had to change his draw length on the bow from 29 1/2 to 29" in order to keep his true form and anchor spot. Everyone should also consider that whether you call it an anchor point change or a draw length change things such as trigger placement on a release, 'd' loop length, length of release can all affect your draw length/anchor point. Yet the *designed draw length of the bow does not change*.


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## DaddyPaul (Jun 30, 2009)

archerholic,
While I certainly respect everyone's opinion in the thread I still beg to differ...................to a degree.  

I don't really even understand why we are hashing out whether it is better to be too long or too short, when we can be PERFECT?  Don't settle for close enough, get things set so that they are spot on and everyone will shoot better. 

Now back to string loops.  No doubt if you take a bow that is set for your perfect draw length and go from a 1" loop to a 3" loop you are gonna be all strung out at full draw and your anchor points will be moved further back.  Point taken albeit an exaggerated one.  

All I am saying is that there is a perfect DL for everyone and it will vary ever so slightly perhaps due to string angle, ATA length etc.  

My AM35 at 29.75"s of DL allows the string to lay across the corner of my mouth as well as allow me to touch the tip of my nose to the string while me head is erect and centered over my hips.  I'm certainly not going to shorten the DL because I plan to add a string loop.

I absolutely disagree with measuring someone to get their DL and then saying, "OK, you measure out to be a XX draw length but since we are going to add a loop of XX inches, we need to shorten your draw length by XX inches.  

Get the right draw length to start with based on the shooter's body and then tweak loop length to get anchor point and release shoulder blade in position.  

That's all I'm saying...............


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## archerholic (Jun 30, 2009)

I hear what you are saying DaddyPaul. Let me ask you this - If I measure my draw length and it comes to exactly 30". Yes, I will absolutely get me a 30" draw bow. A 30" draw length bow is not measured from the back side of the 'd' loop..Correct?..  A 30" draw length bow is measured approximately from the groove in the nock point to the front of the riser. Of course we have what is known as 'True Draw Length' but thats another story for another day.

So if I my draw length is measured as 30" inches exactly, and I purchase a 30" draw length bow that is measured from the groove in the nock to the front of the riser, and then I add a 3/4" 'd' loop to the bowstring does that or does that not now mean that I am set up as 30 3/4" draw length??? In my opinion that does mean that I have 'extended' the draw length due to the 'd' loop even though the bow is still a 30" draw bow. 

I do agree that regardless of how we define 'draw length' we should be setup as perfect. I tell all my customers that their bow should fit them like a glove. On the down side I would guess that most bows stickers indicate a draw length that is not exact. On the upside I do believe there is always room to 'fudge' a bit when adjusting your draw length to fit you without hendering accuracy.


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## DaddyPaul (Jun 30, 2009)

Oh, I got you loud and clear.  We are just debating semantics at this point.  AMO draw length as you describe is normally measured from the bottom of the string groove to the lowest point of the grip + 1.75 inches.

Bottom line IMO is this:  Don't get hung up on stickers and specs.  Consult with someone who is knowledgable in setting up a bow, come up with a solid starting point as far as DL goes and tweak the bow so that it is right for the shooter.

To simply buy a bow that has a sticker that indicates the DL is 30 and call it golden is way off base IMO.  I think we are saying basically the same thing, just in different ways.


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## turtlebug (Jun 30, 2009)

Yall are killin me. 

I got stuck on the bad end of this debate last year. I'm 5'10" with a 27.5" draw if you wanna get technical.  A 26" cam let out as far as possible on the Prestige felt WAY too short but some folks criticized me and said it "looked" just fine. Well looks and me being comfortable are two different things. I finally got a 27" cam and with all the adjustments and fine tuning, it's let out as far as it can go. Shooting it with the pinky release, it fits me perfect.  

You let someone monkey with my bow and I can 100% tell you when the draw is even 1/8 of an inch off now, aside from making me throw a hissy-fit, my shots and form suffer tremendously. 

Too short, too long. ARE YOU COMFORTABLE with the way your draw length is adjusted? ARE YOU SHOOTING ACCURATELY with the way your draw length is set? If not, then fix it.  

If someone wants to be hard-headed and sacrifice accuracy for speed, that just leaves more deer that they missed for me to take.


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## DaddyPaul (Jun 30, 2009)

OK, who invited a "girl" into the clubhouse?


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## turtlebug (Jun 30, 2009)

DaddyPaul said:


> OK, who invited a "girl" into the clubhouse?



There's a girl in here?  

Where?


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## DaddyPaul (Jun 30, 2009)

turtlebug said:


> There's a girl in here?
> 
> Where?


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## archerholic (Jul 1, 2009)

Hi TurtleBug,
I absolutely agree with your suggestion. Which gets back to where I said that a bow should fit the owner just like a glove. One thing I have noticed though throughout my years of assisting archers and tuning bows is that there are those out there who 'think' they are comfortable. Their accuracy may be 'acceptable' but not great. And then if they ask me to look at them at full draw. If for some reason I suggest that their draw length is too long, and if they are willing to shoot the bow with a shorter draw length for lets say two weeks or so, they usually come back and say that they thought they were comfortable before but now feel much more comfortable since their draw length was modified. If a customer ask for my advice and if my advice is to modify something in their form or draw length or whatever then I tell them to be sure to NOT go home and shoot at dots. It will take a while to adapt to the changes that have been made.

My recommendation is that the customer should go home and stand about 2 steps away from your target. Then shoot the bow after the modifications have been made for at least a few days. At first shoot the bow with your eyes closed so that you can focus on nothing but form. Once you feel comfortable then walk back and start shooting at 10-20 yards. Then a week or so later walk back to 30 yards. After a few weeks of this then you can decide if your groups have tightened or maybe gotten worse. I have received many calls from customers thanking me for making the adjustments to their form, draw length, etc...  because their accuracy improved. 

Your situation may be different. You sound very comfortable with your setup. And you sound smart enough to know that comfort means nothing without accuracy!


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## Killdee (Jul 1, 2009)

Had Mitch give me an eyeball yesterday and he said D-L looked perfect, bow was a little out of spec so I left it with him. We did shorten my release a lil, but Im string on my nose, nock in the corner of my mouth left arm slightly bent at 30"D-L.


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## thompsonsz71 (Jul 1, 2009)

i am 6,0, measure out to a 76 inch wingspan, i shoot a reezen at 29 inches for hunting..... take into accout i shoot backtension/thumb release, i feel like i can shoot then 29 better when in a stand/blind/hunting situation.... now if we are shooting indoor or 3d i will definately be shooting a 30 in draw bow.... i feel cramped with the 29 if i shoot alot.... the 30 just feels right for me... if u take the formula i measure out to a 30.5 but i dont think theres anyway i am that long


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## shakey hunter (Jul 3, 2009)

I'm sorry I got my tail rung out by the man that taught me about bows. It is your height divided by 2.5. So 70" = 28"


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## Ol' Bread Basket (Jul 3, 2009)

Im 5'11" on a good day and my Mathews Switchback has a 29 inch cam. Sometimes I feel like my arm is bent to much and I need a 29.5.


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## CamoCop (Jul 4, 2009)

i don't think any formula is the answer, just a mere "guideline".  some people simply have longer arms than others.


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## Killdee (Jul 4, 2009)

shakey hunter said:


> I'm sorry I got my tail rung out by the man that taught me about bows. It is your height divided by 2.5. So 70" = 28"



I have tried all three formulas and have a 3/4" difference between them.


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## kyhunter (Jul 4, 2009)

southern bucks said:


> formula for draw length
> 
> messure you wing span from tip to tip
> 
> ...



b i n g o


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## BMCS (Jul 4, 2009)

*Draw Length*

I am 66" tall and I currently shoot a 27" Mathews Reezen.  This is what I was measured at 15 years ago.  I am now a 26" draw and have ordered new cams.
I have been shooting fine with the 27". However, the problem is when I draw the bow back to the wall, my anchor point is actually where the bow takes off, I continuously have to pull back father then I normally would, did I shrink or did the first guy not measure me correctly or is it with the new bows there is no room for error?  I hope the new cams help me pick up a few more x's.


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## Hoyt Thompson (Jul 5, 2009)

not trying to be nit picky here, I am guessing that the OP's avatar is in fact him shooting and that DL is every bit 2" to long. You got a floating anchor point, your bow arm is rather bent, you are leaning back, and you are not square to the bow.

I understand what you are saying but I am in the court of focusing on my flaws before trying to point out others flaws. ( I know I just did that but you kinda started this debate.0 And yes I know my Draw length because I have shot everything from 27.5 to 31" and I am comfortable with proper bone alignment and anchor point at 29.5-30" depending on the manufacturer.(I am 6' 1" with a long torso, the wingspan formula is not as close on me as it is for some.)

You might could fit into that DL posted in your avatar if you straighten up, use a strong core, square up to the arrow/bow, and use a good bone to bone alignment.

Now I am all for the debate of proper draw lengths and the bow must fit the shooter, I just think it odd for someone to claim they are set right and are not set right, or say it amazes them and you can clearly see that the person saying this falls into the catagory that "amazes" him.


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## GusGus (Jul 5, 2009)

Hoyt Thompson said:


> not trying to be nit picky here, I am guessing that the OP's avatar is in fact him shooting and that DL is every bit 2" to long. You got a floating anchor point, your bow arm is rather bent, you are leaning back, and you are not square to the bow.
> 
> I understand what you are saying but I am in the court of focusing on my flaws before trying to point out others flaws. ( I know I just did that but you kinda started this debate.0 And yes I know my Draw length because I have shot everything from 27.5 to 31" and I am comfortable with proper bone alignment and anchor point at 29.5-30" depending on the manufacturer.(I am 6' 1" with a long torso, the wingspan formula is not as close on me as it is for some.)
> 
> ...




I was thinking the same thing.


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## SE.GAcoondawg (Jul 5, 2009)

GusGus said:


> I was thinking the same thing.



that makes two of us, that draw length is definately long


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## DaddyPaul (Jul 5, 2009)

Hoyt Thompson said:


> not trying to be nit picky here, I am guessing that the OP's avatar is in fact him shooting and that DL is every bit 2" to long. You got a floating anchor point, your bow arm is rather bent, you are leaning back, and you are not square to the bow.
> 
> I understand what you are saying but I am in the court of focusing on my flaws before trying to point out others flaws. ( I know I just did that but you kinda started this debate.0 And yes I know my Draw length because I have shot everything from 27.5 to 31" and I am comfortable with proper bone alignment and anchor point at 29.5-30" depending on the manufacturer.(I am 6' 1" with a long torso, the wingspan formula is not as close on me as it is for some.)
> 
> ...



I will agree to a point.  His form certainly doesn't look to conform with the classic T stance everyone wants to fit into but I'm not sure he is 2 inches long in DL.

He is leaning back a bit, but at the same time appears to really be leaning into the string to get his nose on it.  I think if he stands up straight w/his head centered over his hips and perhaps straightens his bow arm a touch, he "might" look a lot better.

I say "might" because it is so hard to tell much from one picture IMO.


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## Hoyt Thompson (Jul 5, 2009)

His DL is everything but a classic T.

I really do not care one way or the other. 

He can call the kettle black all he wants. He could shoot 4" longer and the bow upside down and i would not loose a wink of sleep.

I just thought it funny and comical that he is talking about others Amazing him and he is in the same category.

He might not be 2" off but from what I see he need to stand straight, which would add 1"- 1.5" easy.

Straightening that bow arm for good bone to bone alignment would take up a inch.

Shortening that release might take up and inch.

But the nock would still be at his ear and not corner of the eye/mouth.


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## Miguel Cervantes (Jul 5, 2009)

Hoyt Thompson said:


> not trying to be nit picky here, I am guessing that the OP's avatar is in fact him shooting and that DL is every bit 2" to long. You got a floating anchor point, your bow arm is rather bent, you are leaning back, and you are not square to the bow.
> 
> I understand what you are saying but I am in the court of focusing on my flaws before trying to point out others flaws. ( I know I just did that but you kinda started this debate.0 And yes I know my Draw length because I have shot everything from 27.5 to 31" and I am comfortable with proper bone alignment and anchor point at 29.5-30" depending on the manufacturer.(I am 6' 1" with a long torso, the wingspan formula is not as close on me as it is for some.)
> 
> ...


 


DaddyPaul said:


> I will agree to a point. His form certainly doesn't look to conform with the classic T stance everyone wants to fit into but I'm not sure he is 2 inches long in DL.
> 
> He is leaning back a bit, but at the same time appears to really be leaning into the string to get his nose on it. I think if he stands up straight w/his head centered over his hips and perhaps straightens his bow arm a touch, he "might" look a lot better.
> 
> I say "might" because it is so hard to tell much from one picture IMO.


 

These gentlemen are all over it. Draw length is determined by proper stance and form, not by what you are comfortable with.


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## bowsmith (Jul 5, 2009)

I'm 6-1, with a 77" wingspan and I shoot just over a 29 3/4" draw.  If you get a bow from me, it's probably gonna be a 30" bow, that I've shortened up so the let-off and draw length are less.   Wingspan method puts me at a 31" draw which I don't think I could every possibly shoot.


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## DaddyPaul (Jul 5, 2009)

Hoyt Thompson said:


> His DL is everything but a classic T.
> 
> I really do not care one way or the other.
> 
> ...



I was merely offering up my opinion on what I see in the shot and didn't intend for my opinion to be taken as fact.  I apologize if I came off that way.  

Here is what I see:

If he extends his arm slightly the nock will move forward.  

If he centers his head over his hips, his head will move back.  If he stands up straight his hips will move forward.  

When I envision him doing all of this "uncoiling" for lack of a better term, I see the nock being really close to falling somewhere under his eye.  

Just my thoughts dude.


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## DaddyPaul (Jul 5, 2009)

bowsmith said:


> I'm 6-1, with a 77" wingspan and I shoot just over a 29 3/4" draw.  If you get a bow from me, it's probably gonna be a 30" bow, that I've shortened up so the let-off and draw length are less.   Wingspan method puts me at a 31" draw which I don't think I could every possibly shoot.



You are a knuckle dragger dude! 

I'm right at 6'3" and wingspan puts me at 29.7'ish.  GRIV's method puts me about the same 29.75, maybe a tad more.  

I'm currently shooting my AM 35 with #3 cams and B mods (29.5).  I shoot with the grip pulled so that adds another 1/4" roughly, so I'm at 29.75"s.

With my Just B Cuz I'm golden, with my Quickie 1+ I think I could go out another .25 or so.  I may pick up some C mods and tweak the cam rotation a bit and see how it feels.


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## DaddyPaul (Jul 5, 2009)

bowsmith,
Do you shorten it simply by twisting or do you change the lengths of the string/cables?


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## bowsmith (Jul 5, 2009)

Adjusting the draw stop.  I shoot Bowtechs, remember.   I really don't worry about getting an exact let-off, just get the draw length right.  I can't really tell much difference from 60-67% let-off, so wherever it falls is where I leave it.


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## Hoyt Thompson (Jul 5, 2009)

DaddyPaul said:


> I was merely offering up my opinion on what I see in the shot and didn't intend for my opinion to be taken as fact.  I apologize if I came off that way.
> 
> Here is what I see:
> 
> ...


Oh no do not get me wrong, I did not assume that you "came off" in any way.

I am just pointing stuff out. Like you I feel that that DL may be attainable but his present form is just not the best.
BUt I think it might be needing a slight shortening or a release aid that allows him to get his hand slightly closer to his string.

Seriously though I do not care if he shoots it upside down. AS long as he is shooting comfortably and not hurting himself.

I am not to particular to finding an elusive "perfect form".

But I do have areas I like to see in line. 

Like the bow arm being straight but not locked, 
The anchor point being in a consistant repeatable location, 
99% of the time this would make it along the jaw line. 

And I like to see good posture. 
Most will immediately think that you gotta stand up really straight. That is not the case in archery. You need a strong core and a balanced stance. 

If you are standing too straight you are not at you best ablance and your core is loose. You can see this in some because the arch of the low back is very present and the shoulder blades are hanging over the hips of the archer.

Tighten your core and you will kinda lean forward at the shoulders just a smidge and you will bring you weight directly over your feet and thus creating a very stable balance.

Other than that, Shoot, have fun, and no not hurt yourself.



We are debating semantics at this point. We both are just explaining the same thing differently.


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## Allen Waters (Jul 8, 2009)

i don't know if its been mentioned, but with a hunting bow you will use in cold weather, it is much better to shoot a shorter draw length. The shorter draw length allows mulitple layers and thick clothing to clear your string. Because your arm is not locked out straight. Its better to have a slight bend in your bow arm than straight and another point is a bow like a Mathews with a solid back wall when you draw allows you to anchor in the same point with a slightly bent arm.
 Nothing light a blown shot on a trophy because your thick clothing on a 20 degree morning gets in the way. AW


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## Brian from GA (Jul 8, 2009)

Patrick 

that's why I love solo cams.... a twist here and a twist there and I can be where ever (within reason) that I feel best. I had two Apex 7s a couple years ago set up identical. To get one of them to shoot right, feel right, etc I had to have the cam rotated too far in (shorter than the ideal or stock location) the other "identical" bow had to be rotated too far out (longer) almost the exact same amount. I could go back and forth between bows and never miss a beat and they measured the exact same draw length. One may have been a percentage point different on % of let off but other than that they were equal. 


Just to amen everyone here.... too short is better than too long especially for hunting. Perfection is obviously best but most folks have no idea what that is until they have been shooting long enough to get bad habits. Get something you can shoot. Listen to reason from experienced shooters. If it works for you great if not go back to what worked..... AND keep in mind.... Ask 10 of the very best archers in the world a question like this and you will get 13 different answers.


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## hitman2808 (Jul 10, 2009)

im 6'7..shoot a 30"..only because i cant find a bow i like that fits me. my shop measured me..said i need a 31", oh well whats an inch


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## Hoyt Thompson (Jul 11, 2009)

AWBOWHUNTER said:


> i don't know if its been mentioned, but with a hunting bow you will use in cold weather, it is much better to shoot a shorter draw length. The shorter draw length allows mulitple layers and thick clothing to clear your string. Because your arm is not locked out straight. Its better to have a slight bend in your bow arm than straight and another point is a bow like a Mathews with a solid back wall when you draw allows you to anchor in the same point with a slightly bent arm.
> Nothing light a blown shot on a trophy because your thick clothing on a 20 degree morning gets in the way. AW


Or you can shoot the correct draw length and use a compression sleeve to tuck the fabric out of your strings path.


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