# Transmission Problems?



## Gofish206 (Aug 5, 2009)

Does anyone know or know someone that has experience with dodge or jeep transmissions. I have couple questions that I need answered. Thanks Josh


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## ponyboy (Aug 5, 2009)

just ask the ques. here ?


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## Gofish206 (Aug 6, 2009)

well I was driving my jeep the other day "offroad" and was driving about 45mph down a dirt road it was acting like it was stuck in one gear. Well when i went to sllow down for the curve and get back in it I had nothing. All of a sudden it would not pull in any foward gears. The reverse works perfect. It just seems odd that all 3 foward gears and overdrive would go out at one time and the reverse still work. I plan on replacing it but if thier is somthing I might could fix I would like to know. It is a 46rh in a 4x4 jeep grand cherokee v8. Thanks Josh


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## KDarsey (Aug 6, 2009)

Sounds like it is cooked. I had a couple of GMs that did the same. I was driving,stopped for a minute and pooof! it would only drive in reverse. No warning. They do that.


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## rjcruiser (Aug 6, 2009)

Usually when something happens in auto trannies, they default and lock into 2nd gear.  This allows you to start and get going and "limp" back home or to the shop.  Hope it isn't something major, but doesn't sound good.


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## flatheadz (Aug 25, 2009)

Input shaft sensor and or  the dual tps. Jeeps use a dual positioning sensor. 1 for throttle the other side for shift point. Sensors are cheaper tha trans but a code reader  wi ll tell you if it is a sensor. I had a jeep and it acted like it was stuck in 2nd gear.---tps was it


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## hammerz71 (Aug 25, 2009)

I've found that when you have no forward gears but reverse works fine, it's the torque converter.  Not terribly difficult to replace, although you are going to have to drop the whole tranny and line the new TC up perfectly.
It's a lot easier to drop the tranny if you unbolt the TC from the flywheel.  
Once you get it pulled out and on the bench, pull the valve body, if nothing seems damaged or out of place, you pretty much confirmed it's the TC...


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## hoochfisher (Aug 26, 2009)

my 97 ram 1500 4x4 with the 46re trans did something simular this past month.  was perfect, stoped for gas and restarted the truck, had no 1st or 2nd on take off and no overdrive. 

it pulled code for governor pressure sensor. i was told to replace all elec. components at the same time, but i was allready broke, so i only did the GPS. didnt fix it. also after replacing it, i had to pull the truck down to first and go up to drive, just to move it at all.  

then it pulled code for governor pressure soliniod, and 3-4 shift soliniod.  changed both of them and now everything works.

only thing i dont understand about it is, i lost alot of gas milage after the trans messing up and fixing it?


from everything i have been told about the 46re and 46rh trans, they have ALOT of electrical problems with these two trans. as they have wires inside the trans that are not insulated sufficantly for being inside the trans. the wires burn up, and cause the other elec. parts to go out.   with mine, the wiring harness was part of the 3-4 soliniod.


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## aa136 (Sep 3, 2009)

Get with thatjonesboy on here. He built my F-250 trans and I know he does alot of dodge trans's and he does a good job and is reasonable


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## mikee (Sep 3, 2009)

*trans problems*

There is a problem with the clutch going out in the torque converter.  The discs wear and settle in the valve body.  If it has under 100,000 miles you can probably clean the valve body and replace the converter.  I f over 100,000 rebuild the trans because you probably have other wear issues.


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## HGM (Sep 4, 2009)

Man, I'm not a chyrsler guy so, I cant say for sure. But the idea of it being a Tq converter is obsurd for transmissions I'm aware of. The converter transmits tq from the engine to the input shaft and pump. If it works in rev but not fwd, I cant see how it could possibly be a converter... Could be wrong, but thats a great example of how bad info can cost you a ton of money. 

Have you checked the fluid? Havent seen that recomendation yet, but a low fluid level could easily cause this. Reverse circuits use higher pressure and will often be the last gear you lose with low fluid levels. Always check the fluid first. If its at the right level (hot) and doesnt smell burnt it may be an easy fix. But, you need someone experienced in that box to clue you in on where to go.. 

I dont mean to knock any of the other replies, but from my experience, I wouldnt spend my money on a converter..


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## Slug-Gunner (Sep 4, 2009)

*I agree !!!!*



hgm said:


> man, i'm not a chrysler guy so, i cant say for sure. But the idea of it being a tq converter is absurd for transmissions i'm aware of. The converter transmits tq from the engine to the input shaft and pump. If it works in rev but not fwd, i cant see how it could possibly be a converter... Could be wrong, but thats a great example of how bad info can cost you a ton of money.
> 
> Have you checked the fluid? Havent seen that recommendation yet, but a low fluid level could easily cause this. Reverse circuits use higher pressure and will often be the last gear you lose with low fluid levels. Always check the fluid first. If its at the right level (hot) and doesn't smell burnt it may be an easy fix. But, you need someone experienced in that box to clue you in on where to go..
> 
> I don't mean to knock any of the other replies, but from my experience, i wouldn't spend my money on a converter..




hgm,

x2


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## HGM (Sep 5, 2009)

OK, so maybe I should clarify my comments afer ticking someone off...

Slug and I are trying to save you money and frustration.. Everyone is trying to help.. 

I stand by my response that the converter _alone_ will *not* fix your problem... Transmissions are probably the least understood component on a car. If your not comfortable in your abilities, you can easily get in over your head. Even the "pro's" can sometimes jump the gun and have one torn apart on a hunch, only to get stuck looking for the "smoking gun" after its too late to check the easy stuff while its in the car... 

If you have the time,money and desire, many of us would be glad to teach you how to diagnose and repair it yourself. But that can be a tough and costly lesson based on online direction. The best way would be to get a pro to look at it and fix it for you..


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## 7Mag Hunter (Sep 5, 2009)

Sounds like an electrical (sensor) problem...Doubt torque
converter..A TC is just an automatic clutch, and it it went out,
I don't think truck would back up....

Let us know what you eventaully find !!!!!
Got my curiosity up......


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## Slug-Gunner (Sep 5, 2009)

*T/C Operation Explained*

I'm going to try to explain something that VERY FEW people actually understand.... the dynamic operation of a 'torque converter'.

First let's simplify by an example. The torque converter acts somewhat like a fan that is running and then you hold a 'pinwheel' in front of it.  The faster the fan is running, the faster the 'pinwheel' turns. Yes it's actually that simple, but it happens in a sealed, fluid-filled medium called a/t fluid inside the t/c body housing.

The body of the t/c is fixed to the rear of the engine's crankshaft by the 'flex-plate' and rotates at ENGINE SPEED (RPM) at all times. Attached to the main body of the torque converter internally are fin-like blades (think of the front portion of a jet engine that you can see), sometimes referred to as the stator portion,  that rotate at the same speed as the body does. Since this is immersed in a/t fluid, it creates a fluid flow of liquid within the t/c body. The speed of the fluid motion is controlled by the rotational speed of the motor (rpm) and varies with it, with a slight 'inertia' delay. 

Fixed to a shaft that connects to the transmission input shaft is another fan blade. Like a 'pinwheel', these fan like blades have energy (torque) imparted to them by the fluid flow over them and attempt to rotate at the same speed of rotation as the main t/c body blades. The angle (pitch) of the blades, their number, and distance from the main t/c driven fan blades determine how much 'torque' is actually transferred at a given engine speed.

This 'torque' is ONLY TRANSMITTED IN ONE DIRECTION - the same rotational direction as the engine rotates. It DOES NOT CHANGE DIRECTION AT ANY TIME, even when you go into REVERSE. At 'idle-speed' very little 'torque' is transmitted to the a/t side (impeller) and very little effort is required to prevent forward motion of the vehicle. (This has the same affect, theoretically, as pushing in the clutch on a standard tranny.)

There are 2-3 'physical connections' from the t/c to the a/t, depending on type & design. The very outer connection (dog-tab coupling), which is DIRECTLY CONNECTED to the t/c body, DRIVES THE A/T FLUID PUMP. Again this rotates at ENGINE SPEED and engine speed determines HOW MUCH PRESSURE IS DEVELOPED BY THE A/T PUMP. The amount of 'pressure' developed helps in determining the 'shift points' of the a/t and insures that positive lubrication takes place. The inner shaft is attached to the 'torque-driven' impeller blade and to the input shaft of the a/t. The 'valve body' of the a/t determines which gear is selected in older a/t's, but is combined with other sensor inputs in ECM controlled a/t's to determine 'shift points'.

With a 'lock-up' type t/c used on many late model vehicles, they use a TCC solenoid (controlled by the ECM) which 'locks' the t/c to the a/t input shaft for a DIRECT DRIVE from engine-to-a/t, thus improving gas mileage.... or acting as an 'overdrive' if a gear reduction system is incorporated when this TCC operation takes place. I won't even attempt to explain how this is actually accomplished.

That is the SIMPLE EXPLANATION. So as you can PLAINLY SEE, the t/c has little affect on affecting ONLY FORWARD GEARS and NOT REVERSE OPERATION.  Reverse operation is basically a function of either valve body porting or physical operation/solenoids of selecting a 'counter-shaft' within the a/t to REVERSE THE DIRECTION of the a/t OUTPUT SHAFT.


ADDED EDIT:
LOW A/T FLUID LEVELS is the most common cause of the 'symptoms' described in the OP. If the transmission is operated with LOW FLUID LEVEL for extended periods of time, it can cause excessive wear of the 'clutch assys' withing the a/t. This 'wear' in turn causes excessive 'contamination' or 'overheating/burning' of the a/t fluid, which in turn can cause passages/porting in the valve body assy to become clogged up. Thus the end result of 'low fluid levels' can lead to CATASTROPHIC TRANSMISSION FAILURE if left uncorrected (in only a relatively short period of time). 


If you really want to understand how a/t's function, there are several web sites that go into it, along with a Haynes manual which explains a/t operation. There are also web sites that explain how t/c 'stall-speed' is controlled on various high performance engines for racing applications.  Try using a 'Google Search' using various "automatic transmission operation" search strings.... you'll then understand WHY a/t's ARE EXPENSIVE TO REPAIR. Special tools and a GOOD KNOWLEDGE of "How they work." IS ESSENTIAL to repair them.

Hope this helps.


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## z28racin (Oct 1, 2009)

Bring it to me.....I will fix it.....


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