# Herbicides, Insecticides, Fungicides, and Safety



## doomtrpr_z71

I was asked by Canuck5 to make a post on pesticides and safety and it took me making a trip to Texas to have time to write it.

The first thing to remember is the label is the law, applying a chemical in a manner that violates the labeling is a FELONY. You can look up the label for nearly any chemical past or present here: http://www.cdms.net/Label-Database.

Calibration for sprayers is also important so you are not wasting money, spraying 2 or 3 or more quarts to the acre of roundup won't kill weeds any faster. Here is a section on sprayer calibrations and gives a shortcut method: http://extension.uga.edu/publications/detail.cfm?number=C683.

As far as herbicide safety goes, most herbicides don't pose acute risks to humans, still follow the PPE requirements on the label., the biggest issue stems from the fact that they are acids. So make sure to clean out sprayers or you'll have corrosion issues. 

Make sure if you put herbicides in a different container that they you label them. Gramoxone (Paraquat) will kill humans if it is ingested, it tends to be put in Gatorade bottles, don't do this. To many times some one has drank from those bottles. Skin contact isn't an issue but the acid does serious damage if its ingested.  

Also, on the subject of paraquat, if you spray it, do yourself a favor and buy a formulation like Gramoxone that has safeners, you do not want it getting in your lungs.

Something that is not talked about much to homeowners is resistance management. Most people have no clue what a miracle glyphosate (Roundup) is. I urge you to spray multiple modes of action. Spray roundup mixed with paraquat, diquat, 24-d, or dicamba. You get enhanced burndown, quicker herbicidal action, and protect the MOA of glyphosate. This is a list of MOA's https://ag.purdue.edu/btny/weedscience/Documents/Herbicide_MOA_CornSoy_12_2012%5B1%5D.pdf. If you are going to plant with a no till drill, it makes more sense anyway to add a preemergent such as Valor to the glyphosate at burndown any way.


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## doomtrpr_z71

Insecticide safety is something for both humans and beneficial insects. This publication lists proper steps to be undertaken to protect pollinating insects from insecticide applications: http://www.ent.uga.edu/Bees/documents/PollinatorBookletforweb2.pdf. 

Regardless, as with herbicides, follow the label. Also, broaden your horizons, there are far more products available other than Sevin. This link contains both the commercial and homeowner pest management guides for 2015 until the 2016 is published, http://www.ent.uga.edu/pest-management/.

I also prefer to mix MOA with insecticides as well. I honestly never spray just one thing with the exception of soil applications of imidacloprid at planting. Here is the IRAC classifications of MOA: http://www.irac-online.org/documents/moa-classification/.

As far as Sevin dust goes, it works, its cheap, but there are better chemistries available. It's main disadvantage is that it is not selective and will knock back beneficials as well.


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## doomtrpr_z71

Fungicides are a different beast all together, you must rotate modes of actions (MOA) with them or you will end up with resistance issues. They also have to be sprayed as a preventative tool on a schedule, very few of them actually have any curative action. The available chemistries should be listed in the pest management handbook linked above. Your best bet on disease issues is to plant resistant varieties and rotate the crop plantings so its not the same thing planted in the same spot every year. With tree's this isnt possible so you need to develop a schedule and stick to it or pray for a dry year.


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## doomtrpr_z71

Last but not least, do not fall for the marketing of organic products. Organic is not safer than conventional  production methods, regardless of what the internet may tell you. The only difference is the approved list of chemicals for each one and the amount of safety testing involved. Organic pesticides actually have nearly near zero safety testing whereas a conventional chemical is tested so much that a new chemistry costs $500 million to develop. So make sure to wear PPE when applying them as well as make sure to follow best management practices to protect the beneficials (quite a few organic insecticides are deadly to bees for example). 

My final point would be to get your private applicator license. All it takes is going and talking to your county extension agent and taking the test. This would help you learn the do's and don'ts as well as give you broader access. You will need to go to a couple ag related meetings to get the credit hours to keep it current (I think it is 6 credit hours over 3 or 5 years, usually the meetings are worth 2 hours). 

If anyone wants them, I'll put the production guides for common food plot crops as well in this thread to get the specific recommendations for each crop.

NEW additions 2/6/16
Forgot soil testing, here is the circular, honestly the soil test is the most important thing you should do when planting. http://extension.uga.edu/publications/detail.cfm?number=C896. 
If you are in southwest Ga you may want to send the tests to Waters Lab instead of the UGA lab. They tend to be quicker and a little cheaper, but since they tend to make recommendations higher than uga soil tests since they tend to work with commercial growers.

This is the complete UGA gardening guide if anyone wants to look through it: http://extension.uga.edu/publications/detail.cfm?number=B577.

Here is the planting calendar: http://www.captainplanetfoundation.org/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/Vegetable-Planting-Schedule-for-Georgia.pdf.

The prep calendar: http://extension.uga.edu/publications/detail.cfm?number=C943.

Planting recommendations for food plots: http://extension.uga.edu/publications/detail.cfm?number=C814.

Rain barrel drip irrigation: http://extension.uga.edu/publications/detail.cfm?number=B1372.


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## SakoL61R

Excellent posts on subjects that need to be fully understood.  I'm a big fan of CDMS.net.  Thanks for the other links as well.

<<<<should be a sticky>>>>


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## Canuck5

Excellent doomtrp!!!!!  Thanks for taking the time to do this and add to it as more things come to mind.  Mr. Elfiii, I think this needs to become a Sticky too!!!!!!!!!


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## Kawaliga

Thanks for this excellent, helpful information.


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## doomtrpr_z71

Ya'll are welcome, if there's anything I didn't get covered let me know!


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## Triple C

Another thumbs up for a great thread!


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## davidhelmly

Great posts, thanks for taking the time! I'm going to reread everything and check out all the links as I get time!!


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## Forest Grump

A brief video concerning sprayer cleanout; since this sticky is on the subject of spraying. It is very important to properly clean your equipment, lest you inadvertently apply a chemical toxic to your current crop, or go to use your sprayer & all the screens are full of goop...


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## nrh0011

good video there Forest, I think another important thing regarding sprayer clean out is the site selection you choose to do it at. Are you near a well? Does the site have bad runoff potential? Are their sensitive animals nearby? etc...things to think about when rinsing tanks.


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## Canuck5

Great information you two!


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## Canuck5

From AGPHD ..... Herbicide Rotational Restrictions.  The numbers listed are in "months" from when you can successfully grow the next listed crop.  Just for reference, I know "we" don't use all these herbicides, but .....

http://www.agphd.com/resources/herbicide-rotational-restrictions/


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## Canuck5

From AGPHD ...... which herbicides are labeled "for what".

http://www.agphd.com/resources/herbicide-sites-of-action/


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## Canuck5

Clethodim and crop oil, used on the right side of the pic.  Cleans grasses up pretty good!


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## Canuck5

About a month ago, I used the weed wiper on some grass invested clover.  It did the trick, but now I have some broad leaf weeds who might have been small or not germinated yet, coming thru.  When I get back down in a few weeks, I will hit them again.


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## nrh0011

Some herbicide info, will post more as we cover the rest of the material in my weed science course. This link will give you access to download pdfs within this dropbox folder. 


https://www.dropbox.com/sh/wdd2tv8sjat6b31/AAAwovKaGkpF5IP6asUHnu2fa?dl=0


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## Canuck5

Thanks for posting that!!!  I'll have to study up on it!!!


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## nrh0011

Hope it's of some benefit to yall!


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## Crakajak

*    Imox Herbicide*

       Approximate use rate for Hay (Clover, Alfalfa, and Chicory, but not Grass Hay): 4-6 ounces per acre plus approximately 2-3 pints per acre Nitro-Surf (see label for exact use rate, varies by gallons per acre of application).




           For small batch spot spray use approximately 1 teaspoon plus 3 ounces of Nitro-Surf per gallon of water



   See label for specific use rates.

   ACTIVE INGREDIENTS:
   ammonium salt of imazamox.....12.1%
   OTHER INGREDIENTS.....87.9%
   Total.....100.00%
Ran across this at Keystone. One appication for both broadleaf and some grasses in Clover patches.


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## Canuck5

Calibrating a boomless sprayer (thanks Doomtrp)

https://nwdistrict.ifas.ufl.edu/phag/2019/06/03/calibrating-your-boomless-pesticide-sprayer/


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## Canuck5




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## Canuck5




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