# Minwax Polycrylic as a gunstock finish



## SmokyMtnSmoke

Hey guys, I've got a Boyds thumbhole stock in grey pepper laminate. It's a VIP so it already fits my Savage 110 action very well. I've started the sanding and am looking to keep this fairly simple. 

What are y'alls thoughts on using Minwax water based Polycrylic Clear Satin spray for a rifle stock finish? It will be done in several layers of spraying, sanding and spraying on another coat till I'm happy with the look. 

This is going to be a drag it through the woods rifle so I'm not looking to make it a show piece but want a durable lasting finish. Being a laminate stock are there better choices for a finish?


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## Mirvin 264

Polycrylic is a great finish for certain applications, I used some just this morning on some wood trim- I would not recommend it on your stock, though, because it is basically an interior product, and is not suitable for use outdoors- I know your rifle will spend most of it's life inside, but for my preference, I would use Minwax Polyurethane spray in a satin finish- Polycrylic is a totally crystal clear product, whereas polyurethane has an amber hue to it, which will dramatically enhance the various grains in the laminate, making them "glow" as you look at the wood from different angles- Water based acrylics will make the grain look "dead" in comparison- Several light coats of the poly and a light buffing with 000 steel wool between coats will in my professional opinion truly make the gun a sharp piece of furniture!


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## jglenn

try minwax wipe on poly

comes in satin or gloss and is easy  to apply.

takes several coats but the finish is great and easy to fix if needed.


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## Doyle

My favorite is Minwax Tung Oil Finish.  It is basically a wiping varnish.  See the similar thread going on over in the muzzleloader forum.


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## Twenty five ought six

jglenn said:


> try minwax wipe on poly
> 
> comes in satin or gloss and is easy  to apply.
> 
> takes several coats but the finish is great and easy to fix if needed.



I've used that before, and it works really well. Makes a very hard, durable, waterproof finish without the plastic look.

I cut if about 50-50 with mineral spirits so it will go on thinner, and dry faster.

Lots of thin coats.


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## Junior_357

As stated by others, I wouldn't use the Polyacrylic on a gunstock.  I have used it many a time, as I do a lot of woodworking (mostly furniture & decorative shelving).

I have a finish that I would recommend, though.  Liberon Finishing Oil would be an excellent finish - or any danish oil type product - especially if you do the 'sanded in' method of application.  Get a small squirt bottle, spread the oil on the surface, wet a piece of wet/dry sandpaper with the oil, and got to town lightly sanding the wood.  Once you have built up a nice slurry on the surface, let it dry for a few minutes, then wipe off the excess.  Move up in grit on every coat - like 240, 400 then 600.  You can start and stop anywhere on the piece without creating overlap marks.  Three coats is plenty.  Then topcoat with a hard wax (like Minwax) and you've got a great slick-as-glass satin water-resistant finish that would be easy to repair if anything were to mar the finish.  All you have to do to repair the finish is use a little mineral spirits to remove the wax, then sand/rub in more oil.  Then reapply the wax.

The only drawback to this system is that it takes a solid 5 hours (more would be better) between coats, and does take a little time to apply.  But it's worth it, trust me.

I've been thinking about stripping down my Marlin 336 stocks and doing exactly this finish on it.


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## tlong286

Before you use polyurethane consider Birchwood Casey Tru Oil. I bought a tomahawk handle and the nice lady suggested it to finish the tiger maple. I've poly'd and varnished many wood applications but the Tru Oil is the best yet. I did 3 coats with steel wool in between and it looks incredible. I just ragged it on. It flowed out perfect and has a very tough semi gloss finish.


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## SmokyMtnSmoke

Thanks for all your input guys. I really appreciate hearing your experiences. I've only done one stock and that was a Mosin Nagant and I used the BC Tru-Oil and it turned out good. With this being a laminate I want to bring out the patterns and the stains used. Mirvin264's comment about water based will make the grain look 'dead' is exactly what I do not want to do. I'm wanting a matte or low satin / no gloss look to the rifle but yet want to show the patterns of the laminates as well as the colors. I think I'm gonna go with a simple polyurethane layered till I'm satisfied w/ the look.

With the heat and humidity were having should I expect a longer drying time or any of it remaining sticky? For simplicity I'm wanting to stay w/ spray can Minwax , fast drying. Any input still welcome and wanted.

Thanks


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## Doyle

Poly isn't a terrible choice.  However, with poly it is hard to repair scratches and have it blend well.  A good wiping varnish will dry just as hard and clear as poly and still be repairable.

Yes, high humidity does delay recoating.   Down here in FL, I wait a minimum of 24 hours between coats.


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## SmokyMtnSmoke

While were still kicking around finishes, do any of you have an opinion on Helmsman Spar Urethane? 









> Helmsman® Spar Urethane is a specially formulated protective clear finish for exterior or interior wood that is exposed to sunlight, water, or temperature changes. It contains UV blockers to reduce the sun's graying and fading effects. Helmsman® Spar Urethane forms a protective barrier against rain and moisture and its special oils allow the finish to expand and contract with the wood as seasons and temperatures change.


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## Junior_357

SmokyMtnSmoke said:


> While were still kicking around finishes, do any of you have an opinion on Helmsman Spar Urethane?



That's good stuff...I'm just a little old school and don't particularly care for spray-applied finishes.


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## Doyle

Like I said, poly (which spar varnish really is) is hard to repair if you need to touch up.


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## Twenty five ought six

Junior_357 said:


> That's good stuff...I'm just a little old school and don't particularly care for spray-applied finishes.



The same stuff comes in regular old cans.


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## Mirvin 264

Being involved with most types of wood finishes for the last 35 years, I've used many different kinds- The best rubbing type finish I've come across is a Danish oil made by Watco- Comes in clear as well as tinted shades (found primarily at some paint stores, but may be difficult to locate)- I've even used the Tung Oil finish made by Homer Formby on a Ruger 44 mag. carbine back in the 70's, and it did a good job- As for poly versus spar urethane, spar is actually a deeper tinted finish (because of the UV inhibitors that are added), so multiple coats of this product may tend to darken the look of your rifle stock- As for applying by spray, high humidity will affect the application if applied too heavy on each coat, causing a "milky" effect in the finish, and varnishes in general are more prevalent to "sag" as well if applied too heavy in a highly humid environment- Apply with patience and as lightly and evenly as possible, and your results will be successful.


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## Del Hartline

tlong286 said:


> Before you use polyurethane consider Birchwood Casey Tru Oil. I bought a tomahawk handle and the nice lady suggested it to finish the tiger maple. I've poly'd and varnished many wood applications but the Tru Oil is the best yet. I did 3 coats with steel wool in between and it looks incredible. I just ragged it on. It flowed out perfect and has a very tough semi gloss finish.



I have finished/refinished many stocks the same way. Works great.


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## 7Mag Hunter

I did a white wood Hawken rifle with Tru-oil about
20 yrs ago and it still looks very good...True oil will
start to darken after 5-6 coats, but it does make a 
long term shiny finish...Takes a long time to dry,
and you will need to buff lightly between coats....
3-4 coats should give you the look and protection
you are looking for...I applied it with my finger to
avoid fabric particles getting in the finish...True-oil
is an oil based product and you will need mineral 
spirits or any paint thinner for clean up...


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## jason bales

Being in the custom cabinet industry I would advise you to not touch anything minwax its all around lower quality there stains are horrible and we only use them when we are matching something done in minwax, alot of the people that sell minwax we tell you that its not as good if they know anything about it.


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