# Decided to cut a new stock for my SKS



## 99Tarbox

First time ever cutting a stock.  Wish me luck.  If anyone has done this before and has any tips, I sure would welcome them.


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## EMC-GUN

That sure is a pretty blank! Your inletting so far looks great!


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## mattellis2

that slab of walnut is way too nice for an sks!  kinda like putting $3k wheels on an $800 jalopy! 

where did you get your blank, and what is the moisture content?


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## 99Tarbox

I had the stock in hand.  I have several 2" + boards of old growth walnut I picked up years ago and have been dragging around.  This piece was rough cut and I had no idea of the grain till I took a hand plane to it.  Very pleased with the grain.  It is only on one side though, so not really the highest quality as far as figure goes.  I'll take what I can get!  Paid rough cut prices for it too!    Dunno what the moisture content is, been sitting in the garage here for about three years, so well acclimatized.


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## EMC-GUN

Looking good so far!


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## olchevy

Any update photos yet?


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## gtparts

Gorgeous piece of wood....I look forward to seeing the finished unit.

Looks like plenty of salvage for some sweet pistol grips, too.


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## 99Tarbox

Haven't had any time this week to work on it.  I'll get some time in this weekend.


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## 99Tarbox

I have to say, inletting black is, well, black...and gets everywhere!  Man, am I tired.  In the woods this morning freezing my behind off, then into the shop the rest of the day.  Time for a break.  Oh!  The right tool for the job is a timesaver!  That barrel inlet tool is a dream!


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## EMC-GUN

Your woodworking and camera skills are very good! It also looks like your shop is set up with the proper tools too!


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## 99Tarbox

Well, don't know if I have the right tools, but I'm gettin by.  Thanks for the comments!


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## olchevy

very nice, keep us updated!


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## redneckcamo

can hardly wait to see it finished ......lookin good so far !!


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## 99Tarbox

Gettin there!  A little wood at a time.  I'm sure this is ugly as sin to the pros, but I'm having fun!


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## jamrens

man your talented.. good job looking for the next installment.. 


WHit


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## Dead Eye Eddy

That sure is gonna be pretty when you finish with it.  I wish I had your tools and skills.  I made a Stevens 94B forearm years ago to replace one that got melted in a fire.  It's workable, but looks like crap.


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## Dr. Strangelove

Wow - looks like the finest SKS stock ever.  Why all this for an SKS?

I tried to do a Mauser 98K from a walnut blank years ago, I soon realized that I didn't have a clue... yours looks great.


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## 99Tarbox

Dr. Strangelove said:


> Wow - looks like the finest SKS stock ever.  Why all this for an SKS?
> 
> I tried to do a Mauser 98K from a walnut blank years ago, I soon realized that I didn't have a clue... yours looks great.



'Cause I ain't got anything else with a wood stock!    Thought I'd try my hand at it.  I always seem to pick the complex woodworking projects (http://www.99tarbox.com/rhoadescameras/index.htm).  Thanks for the comments!


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## Cknerr

yippee, someone else trying to make a gun stock. Starting to feel kinda alone out here!
Good going! Wish I could keep my shop as clean as the ones in the pictures. Guess making sawdust and wood chips is more fun then cleaning them up. 
I prefer to use Mauser 98 receivers for my custom guns. They are not so difficult -if you can put that SKS into wood, the Mauser is no harder. 

Seriously, if anyone wants to try it, please let me know. I offer free advice and help - the least I can do to try and get more folks to try it. 

Since this is what I do for a living, hopefully have a trick or two to help you. People are welcome to look and take apart the guns here to see how I do things. 
Not the only way to do things of course, just works for me.  From time to time I offer a free Open Shop weekend. The idea is to exchange info and 
show how to do wood working and hobbyist level gunsmithing. Tools, info, etc. are all free and it is open to the public. 

Chris


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## 99Tarbox

Chris, I'd love to take you up on that.  Where in GA are you located?  

Got the main inletting done.  Walnut doesn't allow as exact match as I would like, especially on tight areas.  It certainly doesn't take as nice a cut as hard maple.  I plan on glass bedding in a couple of spots, so that will strengthen the wood and make it more of an exact match.  Now I have to inlet the trigger assembly.


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## 99Tarbox

Got the trigger assembly just about in.  I'll get pics in a bit.  Things I've learned about cutting a stock.

1) Inletting ain't easy.
2) This stock will win no awards.  I might qualify for a Wiley E Coyote gunsmithing certificate, but I doubt it. 
3) Inletting ain’t easy…did I mention that?
4) No matter how bad a job I do, it is 100% better than the Chinese stock
5) Inletting ain’t easy, especially on the trigger…no, wait…everything.


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## 99Tarbox




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## GAJOEY

save some of the sanding dust so if you need to you can fill in small mistakes if you make any..mix it with glass or some type of clear expoy the color will be close to the wood. looks good and  like you are having fun


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## 99Tarbox

Good idea!  Thanks!


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## 99Tarbox

The action is preliminarily let.  Once I get the stock shaped and I get close to the finish stage I’ll touch up and bed the action with glass.  It is VERY tight, but doesn’t interfere with the workings at all.  I do not need a spring to get the trigger assembly out it is set in so tight.  That sucker isn’t moving anywhere.  I do not like the design of the SKS in that you have to cut the channel the complete length of the action.  I tried several things to keep a bridge of wood across the span, but none worked out.  When you get to the full length of the channel, it is really hard to clamp the stock in the milling setup I have and still be on solid wood.  Guess that’s why they have the metal bolt that spans the distance.  Don’t think I’ll need it as the wood is a bit thicker than the original, and I plan to keep it that way.


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## 99Tarbox

Adding a Arizona Ironwood forearm detail before I start shaping.  Got that added tonight, so the shaping begins tomorrow.  That Ironwood is a VERY solid hunk of wood!  It is quite oily as well.  It looks like it already has finish on it, and that is with a light sanding.  This will be a nice detail to the front of the firearm.  I'm planning on inletting a brass strip between the two woods once I get the shaping in.


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## GAJOEY

getting fancy I see.. the cap is gonna look good one of a kind for sure


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## 99Tarbox

I hate the way the original stock ends on a SKS.  The wood just...ends...  Needs definition.


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## Dead Eye Eddy

Have you got room to drop the barrel band into the slot between the two pieces of wood and the action fit down into the stock?  Looks awesome if it works.  Are you going to make a matching handguard?  It would be a shame to have a factory handguard with a handmade stock.


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## 99Tarbox

Matching Handguard.  The one I have is plastic and ugly.


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## 99Tarbox

OK, all the hardware is set and installed.  Now I have no excuses.  I'm more nervous about shaping the stock than I was about inletting!


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## Dead Eye Eddy

That's gorgeous.  I can only imagine what it's gonna look like with a matching handguard after shaping and finishing.


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## Cknerr

lol Tarbox, you have the difficult part done. The inletting is the most difficult part of the project. You have to have a case of OCD not have big gaps between metal wood....as you have found out I am sure.

Now the hardest (there is a difference between hard and difficult ?) part is next. Not much technical, just so darn many options! This is the part I enjoy the most. You can get creative. Just as long as your eyes line up with the scope, you can comfortable reach the trigger, and when shouldering the creature, it is quick and easy to acquire the target.  Sounds like a lot, but it all works together and is not that difficult. I don't know where Katherine is, but you are welcome to stop by the shop. Make copies of a few templets I use, and measure some of my stocks to get an idea of where you are going. They are all hand carved from a blank. Since this is what I do for a living, I admit to skipping a few steps. My hands know what to do. That may not be much of an excuse, but hopefully explain if I miss something in an explanation. I'll try to give you pointers since it looks like you really are going to do this. Might hat comes off to you sir!

The concept is to continually block out and refine. You start by laying out the butt plate with the cast off and toe that fits you. Start off with the butt plate 90 degrees to the bore. Go forward from that about 1-1/2 inches to begin the end of your comb. This will be shortened a whole lot later. For the curve in the front of the pistol grip I use a template. If you have a comfortable rifle, make a paper template from that. You'll find the distance from the front of the pistol grip to trigger is huge! Very surprising...The bottom of the trigger guard is a flat plane level with the bottom of the butt plate. Cut all the wood below the line. Then remove a wood band around the butt plate (forward to where you marked off the butt plate). For the moment pretend you have a cheek piece on both sides of the stock. Draw your line from the leading edge of the pistol grip cap at the bottom to the bottom of the butt plate. I remove all wood below that line. Then check to make sure I have all my references correct. Things like did I put the cast off on the correct side (rest assured experience has taught me that one!) Now make sure the bottom of the stock is square to the sides, especially in the pistol grip area. 

I have a template for a slightly enlarged pistol grip cap. Again you can copy one from a rifle you already have. Add about 1/4" all around it. From the back of the pistol grip make a vertical line (the width of my pointer finger's 1st knuckle ) guess that would be something like  3/8-1/2" for the rest of the world. That will later be slanted to match the front of the pistol grip. Not now though. Now draw a line from the bottom of the butt plate to the top of the line at the back of the pistol grip you just drew. This will be the bottom of the stock from now on. Cut the wood off following your lines. Take the time to get is square to the sides. Now your new center lines goes as follows.... Draw a line from the center of your butt plate to the center of you pistol grip. Ignore the original center-line and whatever bore center-line that might think of. This is strictly for the bottom of the stock. 

hmmm, this is getting mighty long winded. As you can see, there really is a method to this madness. I would continue, but it dawned on me this is getting kinda long. 

If you are not far away, please stop by the shop. There is a process I am glad to show you.  If you can't, let me know. I will continue to post how I go about carving up a chunk of wood. There are a few pics on my computer that might show some of this too.

Right now there is some difficulty sending them. I am sitting off shore in my brother's sail boat. Using my crackberry to get the internet....it is kinda ssllloowwww.

Keep up the good work. It will certainly be worth it in the end!

Chris
PS: this is a link to my website's gallery. Have a look to see what kind of styles I use. http://riflerestorer.com/gallery/gal.htm


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## Cknerr

btw, one thing that worries me. I don't see any wood shavings or wood dust! Your shop is certainly too clean....clean bench= clean mind? If that is true, man am I in trouble.

Chris


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## Dovebuster33

*Admiration*

I admire your putting that kind of work into that beautiful piece of wood for your sks. I know you probably won't be in the mood for a while, but I'm in for a stock or two when you get ready to do it for money. DB


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## 99Tarbox

Chris, I had just cleaned the top of the bench!    I had to many chips laying around, couldn't find my tools!  I just now found your article online on this as well.  Thank you for the information and time.  Please let me know when you are back in town.  I am just south of Warner Robins.  I take it you are in the Atlanta area.  I may have to take a day trip.


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## 99Tarbox

Well, reading that article, I see a few things I could have done that would have eliminated the problems I ran into.  Also, the grip on this will be high angled, almost a pistol grip.  We'll see how that turns out, but I've already got the rough cut in it.  Again, thank you Chris!


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## Bowyer29

That is some beautiful work. I cannot wait to see its finished shape!


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## Cknerr

My pleasure Tarbox! It is great seeing someone else give this a try! Remember,the first one is always the hardest. The next one is a whole lot easier since you now know where the biggest pitfalls lay. 

Don't know if this will help, but I posted making a butt stock for a Marlin here: http://www.woodworkersguildofga.org/cgi-bin/forum/Blah.pl?m-1239854926/

scroll down a little since you have done most of what is posted. 

Your looking good!
Chris


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## 99Tarbox

It is starting to look like a stock!  Little bits of wood shavings everywhere.  I'm using my scrapper more than anything.  It is a lot of work to get the chips flying though!


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## hawgrider1200

Looks more like a stock every time u post, Good lookin too.


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## Cknerr

I see some shavings! 

good progress! Your hard work on that wood plank is starting to look like a stock.

If I can suggest, to help get the slopes and shapes correct. Use your butt pad to make a template with. Use a small washer to reduce the size. (stick a pencil in the hole and run the outside of the washer around. It doesn't care if the line it is following is straight or curved) You now have the shape and size of what your stock should be. The shape/curve of the sides are the hardest to get right. If you miss, the stock will still look like it was whittled from a plank or the top and bottom are so pointed - looks like a fat eye. This has worked for me over the years.  After a little trimming (used a spoke shave -a very sharp one) Will look something like this 






Figured out what your pull length should be?

Mighty nice work so far!
Chris


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## GrouseHiker

Cknerr said:


> ... Use your butt pad to make a template with. Use a small washer to reduce the size. (stick a pencil in the hole and run the outside of the washer around. It doesn't care if the line it is following is straight or curved) You now have the shape and size of what your stock should be....



Chris - Can you explain that a bit more? I'm not understanding.


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## Cknerr

hmmm, have to get some pics together to show you. Ignore the washer for a moment. Can you make a template about 3/16 to 1/8 inch smaller then the outline of a new butt pad? This will give you a nice contour for the sides of you stock. I put the top of the butt plate about 1/4 -3/8 to the right of the bore's centerline for a right hand shooter, opposite direction for a lefty (cast-off). Then tilt the bottom of the butt plate a further 1/4" - 1/2" (depends on how your shoulder's are built) to the outside for toe out.  These 2 "tricks" really make for comfortable shooting and ease of target acquisition through the scope (scope aligns with your eye better).

Since you obviously know wood working, leave it to you to shrink the template a little. I'll have to get the washer trick photographed to show you what I mean. It is one of those things that takes longer to explain then to do.

Chris


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## 99Tarbox

Essentially a negative image of the outside curve of the butt pad!!!!!  OMG!  Why didn't I think of that!  You use a washer to get the line accurately inside the base line of the butt pad.

Chris, luckily, no scope for this weapon.  This is iron peeps only, so the comb will be low.


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## DerrickT

that is great looking!! 

I can't wait to see the finished project!


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## 99Tarbox

Starting to get the stock shape refined.  I still have some lines to work on, but I need to cut the butt under control first.  Of course, I'm cutting this stock for a righty!   8)


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## hawgrider1200

If u don't watch it ur gonna have that thing looking just like a gun stock in a little while. Then everybody and their brother is gonna be beggin for u to do one for them.


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## GAJOEY

that is looking great..the grip cap is very nice .


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## Cknerr

ya man, that is coming along!

Don't forget to start laying out the comb. It might be small, but will need some of the wood you might chisel off shortly.

The sides are sure coming into shape. Looks like a custom job and not a factory skinny job with flat (aka 2x6) sides.

Nice going,
Chris


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## 99Tarbox

Not much room to work anything into the comb.  Might be some light detail, but we'll see.  Chris, you are teaching me much just with your posts.  I had already cut some of the comb back when you mentioned canting the buttplate.  Made great sense to do so, so I lost some of room I had allowed.  It is fine anyway, as this is an iron sight weapon, so the comb isn't high.  In fact, it is pretty much on the money now, so there won't be much cut from the top.


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## Gentleman4561

Looks great...thanks for all the pictures and posts


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## 99Tarbox

Done with the stock.  Almost time to start prepping for finish.


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## Cknerr

oh ya! that is something else. Really like the photo from the butt plate looking forward. That all lines up perfectly....sweet

So how do you plan on finishing this?

Take care,
Chris


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## 99Tarbox

Cknerr said:


> oh ya! that is something else. Really like the photo from the butt plate looking forward. That all lines up perfectly....sweet
> 
> So how do you plan on finishing this?
> 
> Take care,
> Chris




Thank you!  I was very nervous about the lines since I've never seen a canted stock.  That is validation I did it right, thanks to you!  I plan on 30-40 coats of Tung oil.  That usually brings out the grain very nicely.  Any recommendations?


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## Cknerr

some other folks need to wade in here. My way is not the easiest or the fastest. Hopefully you will get a variety of ways to consider.

I stain a little. The stain is then mostly sanded off. Just want a tint to add some warmth....a red mahogany or something similar. I actually use a minimum of 3 stains...it is not something you want to try without some help the first time. Please don't use minwax!  Nice stuff, but not here. TruTint or something like that from a real wood working store. Then for a but of a surprise. Wood has a bad habit of expanding and contracting with humidity changes. The best way to prevent that is make it hard for humidity to get in OR out. That means shellac. One of mother natures best water proofing. Not 100% but really close. Better then poly or any of the other urethanes. Zinser's Bull's Eye has a preservative that puts shelf life beyond 6 months. Soak it in straight out of the can. Sand back to a lot of wood showing through. Repeat 3 or 4 times. This also fills in pores/grain very fast. Then you can apply what ever kind of finish you want. It all sticks very nicely to shellac. The more layers you apply and then sand almost away, the deeper and nicer the wood will look. After awhile you note the new layer doesn't add anything to the appearance....add 2 more and your done. The comes compounding. This takes out the last fingerprint marks, dust motes, etc. I use a fairly course compound.....like the buffing compound from the car parts store for removing oxided paint. This should leave a lot of very find scratches behind - kinda spooky! Then a carnuba based paste wax applied liberally. The wax fills the scratches and you end up with a satiny finish. Rewax to remove finger prints and small dings. 

I do not wet sand. This produces a fog over the wood I am trying to show off. The same thing applies to any color/tinting in the finish too. It belongs in the wood -the same place mother nature puts it, not on top where it will hides things just like or worse the wet sanding.

Hopefully some other people will weigh in with their way.

Good luck,
Chris


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## 99Tarbox

I've used shellac before, so I'm not adverse to that.  I've always heard very bad things about the pre-mix stuff.  Do you use a blond shellac, or something darker.  Also, do you sand off the hairs first by applying a mineral spirit to raise the grain?


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## Cknerr

your right about the pre-mix stuff. It has a deserved bad reputation. This is a recent development. Don't know what they use as a preservative, but that stuff lasts for nearly a year. When it is 6 months old, I always test it to make sure it will harden. So far so good up to almost 9 months. Haven't had a can last longer before getting used up.

I use the blond stuff.  

Don't bother raising the grain. Because of the many layers of finish, any grain raising is sanded away automatically. I also don't bother tacking. Blow off the surface to get the worse dust is about it. The amount of dust that settles  onto the finish before it dries makes tacking a wasted/futile(?) effort. 

Please note- mineral spirits leaves a slightly oily residue behind. It won't necessarily hurt a finishes ability to set up, but it will keep it a little soft. If you use the layering/many coats technique, then the soft finish on the surface will be sanded away. -this is my thoughts, other folks may think differently. 

Hope this helps,
Chris


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## tiger1996

When you gonna post more pics? I have enjoyed watching.


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## 99Tarbox

We'll see.  I was out of town this week so haven't touched the stock.  I'm also thinking I am still not satisfied with the lower part and still have some cutting to do.  Thanks for the encouragement!


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## 99Tarbox

OK, got rid of the "pregnant guppy" on the bottom of the stock and did some more shaping.


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## tiger1996

Any new pics??


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## 99Tarbox

Not this weekend.  The wife dragged me out on a Disney Wonder cruise, so I haven't had any time to work on it.


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## 99Tarbox

Finally, after trips and getting sick, I'm getting a chance to work on the stock.  The lines will clean up as I sand to the finish.  Gettin ready to breath plenty of walnut.


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## 99Tarbox

I think it is done.  Got it sanded down to about a 400 grit.  Cleaned it up with some mineral spirits while I wait on the shellac to come in the mail.  I'm happy with it.  It has some errors but it fits me perfectly.  When I bring the weapon up to sight it, it is dead on every time.  Don't have to fight it at all.  Now, just gotta get the finish on it and get the cylinder tube figured out.









Cknerr, what color stain would you recommend?


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## Dr. Strangelove

That stock is is amazing! Great job.


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## hawgrider1200

I ain't Ckneer but my opinion is that it needs no color added. I'd put several coats of clear right on top of that wood.


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## tiger1996

looks great


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## Bow Only

Excellent work!


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## arcame

that is one beautiful stock...  can't wait to see tha finished product.


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## 99Tarbox

20 coats of shellac (most of which was removed each coat) and about five of wax.  Started working on the gas tube piece.  Still got a ways to go with that.


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## Dead Eye Eddy

That's beautiful man.


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## 99Tarbox

Had a request for a close-up of the grain.  Hard to photograph fire in the wood, but I tried.  Of course, the grain is much more 3D that it shows in the pics.  This will give you an idea of the grain structure though.


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## arcame

that is absolutely beautiful.  I never thought I would say that about an sks but WOW


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## 7MAGMIKE

I would have never believed an old Chinese made battle rifle could look so good.  Great job.


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## olchevy

That is absolutley amazing!
How are you going to do the gas tube part, one wood, or are you going to do like you did on the bottom and put the end cap type thing on it?
Man you are inspiring me to give it a shot!


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## 99Tarbox

There will be a bit of an accent on it that flows from the stock.


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## 99Tarbox

Well, try two on the gas cylinder cover is a failure.  Sucks too, as this one was really looking sharp.  Again, I learned more, but still gotta start over.  Ah, well.


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## olchevy

You'll get it, and if you ever feel like you cant, just read my saying under my post......


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## olchevy

have you got any further on this beautiful rifle.


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## 99Tarbox

No, summer projects taking priority at the moment.  Stoopid lawn care.


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## fflintlock

This thing needs to be brought back to life. I just have to see the finished product !


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## 99Tarbox

Well, I think I like it better without the cover on the op rod tube.  I've had it out shooting several times and it works great.  I was going to try and get a pic this evening, but with the wife in jury duty, I haven't had time.  I'll post one tomorrow.


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## CraigS1001

I know this is an older post but WOW...... What a task to take on to begin with and what finish to the project.  Excellent craftsmanship my friend.


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## Shug

It has to be the sharpest sks around. One of a kind.


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## 7Mag Hunter

Sooooo, how much to make me one ?????

Seriously, a great looking stock, and thanks for sharing....
A fantastic improvement for your SKS....
Lots of work and skill needed to build a stock from scratch.....
Congrats on a great job...


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## 99Tarbox

I finally got a few pictures.  Enjoy!  I really like shooting this now, and it is pretty accurate.


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## georgia357

Man, that is fantastic.  The wood is beautiful.


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## joshb311

Awesome work! Hope it comes out well!


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## hummdaddy

looks great , nice work


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## Gentleman4561

That turned out great. Congrats!!


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## 99Tarbox

Thanks all!


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## GAGE

I was thinking that this is a lot of work for an SKS, but it turned out amazing, you have great skills!


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## sogafishin

AWSOME 99Tarbox You are very talented.


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