# Pittsley Predator



## schleylures (Feb 9, 2010)

I have a 58 pound custom classic.
6O" AMO I am trying to shoot just one bow and I think this is the one. I have several questions. Need help.
1st. it is a little noisy want should the brace height be from the handel?
2nd. I am shooting 5575 gold tips with hundred grain inserts?
3rd.  I am shooting 200 gr. points
4th full length shafts with wraps and ga tech wrote on them is this my only problem??

I am just looking for input....PLEASE>>>>>>


----------



## CallMaker (Feb 9, 2010)

What is the brace height now Wendell?

Ed


----------



## Barry Duggan (Feb 9, 2010)

Probably that "Ga. Tech wrote on them" that's causing the problems.


----------



## schleylures (Feb 9, 2010)

fom the inset of the handle to the string is 7 3/4.


----------



## CallMaker (Feb 9, 2010)

You could go a little higher Wendell. 8-8 1/4"

I find B50 string material to be quieter than the hi performance type string material. I'll take a loss of a few FPS for quiet any day. 

What do you have for string silencers?

Ed


----------



## schleylures (Feb 9, 2010)

100 % wool yarn


----------



## CallMaker (Feb 9, 2010)

Wool is good. I use little 2" squares of Polar Fleece with a couple slots cut in them to make little wings kind of. 

I presume that it has a hi performance type string?

Ed


----------



## FERAL ONE (Feb 9, 2010)

wrap the ends of the string where it contacts the limb with the same wool yarn. i also put mole skin on my limb tips where the string contacts the groove.  see if that helps !  i have 2 quinns that this worked on.


----------



## ChrisSpikes (Feb 9, 2010)

I always shot mine at 7.75".  Catwhiskers can't be beat.


----------



## hogdgz (Feb 9, 2010)

If the other things dont work you might try putting a little bit of string wax where the limbs bolt onto the riser, also try some on the alighnment pins. 
I did this to my widow and it made all the difference, very quite now.


----------



## schleylures (Feb 9, 2010)

ChrisSpikes said:


> I always shot mine at 7.75".  Catwhiskers can't be beat.



I like my cat to much to pull his whishkers out.
 When I got it it had silencer felt on it but i have not took it off scared to scratch it.
 Is that 7.75 from the hand grip section??


----------



## schleylures (Feb 9, 2010)

Thanks for the input guys.


----------



## Barry Duggan (Feb 9, 2010)

Doesn't Fountain have a predator?


----------



## CallMaker (Feb 9, 2010)

Wendell, Measure the brace height at the deepest/smallest part of the grip, sometimes called the "throat" of the grip.

Ed


----------



## ChrisSpikes (Feb 9, 2010)

schleylures said:


> Is that 7.75 from the hand grip section??



What Ed said.


----------



## fountain (Feb 12, 2010)

i also shoot 7 3/4- 7 7/8 on my bh measured  from the deepest part of the grip to the center of the string.  i have the felt on the limbs and padded the string and didnt really notice much of a difference.  catwhiskers are probably the best and simplest silencers to go with.
my bow is a little lous too, but i shoot 2 under as well, so that is making it ouder than shooting it split.

mine is about as quiet as im gonna get it, and my dad still says it is loud to him.  oo well, i just hope i can hit what i shoot at and dont worry bout the sound.


----------



## LanceColeman (Feb 17, 2010)

Honestly?? yes I do think thats your problem. not the wraps. the 55/75. can you get your hands on a 35/55??


----------



## schleylures (Feb 18, 2010)

I got some 35/55s and put 100 grain tnsert and 200 grain tips and they seem to be shooting better


----------



## bam_bam (Feb 18, 2010)

Good deal.


----------



## RogerB (Feb 18, 2010)

300 up front is alot on a full length 3555 from 58 lbs. I would try some lighter points and see if it gets even better. A higher brace height is usually quieter...


----------



## ChrisSpikes (Feb 18, 2010)

RogerB said:


> 300 up front is alot on a full length 3555 from 58 lbs. I would try some lighter points and see if it gets even better. A higher brace height is usually quieter...



I know I'm not the norm, but that's what I shoot out of 64#, and even 67# if I build out the sideplate a smidge.

Bareshaft it and it'll tell you what you need to do.


----------



## fountain (Feb 18, 2010)

i am shooting a 55/75 cut to 28.5" with 200 up front out of my 54# predator.


----------



## LanceColeman (Feb 18, 2010)

ChrisSpikes said:


> I know I'm not the norm, but that's what I shoot out of 64#, and even 67# if I build out the sideplate a smidge.
> 
> Bareshaft it and it'll tell you what you need to do.



Reckon I'm right there in the pod widja Chris man. Cuz most all my bows from 50-60#s handle that 35/55 cut 29.5" with  around 250 up front just perfectly fine.


----------



## schleylures (Feb 18, 2010)

ha guys thanks for the input i am still exploring. It shoot great several ways but the shooter kinda stinks somethimes. Well all the time actually.


----------



## RogerB (Feb 18, 2010)

Chris and Lance,
I am not arguing with either of you. You are both good shooters and I am sure you have your bows tuned well, and what you suggest may be exactly what schleylures needs. However, schleylures needs a 30" arrow from 58# and he has 300 up front. 

Lance, he needs 1/2 inch longer and has 50gr. more up front, and is shooting at the upper range of what you say you are.

Chris, not sure what length you are shooting or how many grains up front (must be close to what I described, 3555 full lenght with 300 up front) and you are shooting them from considerably heavier bows. However you are saying you are having to build the shelf out to do so. As we know, the farther out, from center, a bow is, the weaker shaft it will like. In fact I have a 47# bow and a 55# bow that like the same arrow, the difference is center shot.

If Schleylures wants to build out his shelf, he probably can shoot the combination described. However, look at what Fountain  is shooting, much stiffer (stiffer static spine shaft, shorter, with less point weight, from only 4# less) and from the same bow.

As I said I respect both of you and your opinions and fully accept you may be (probably are) correct, and I may be wrong; but I still think a 30 or 30.5, 3555 with 300 up front is going to be weak from 58#. That is why I suggested trying a lighter point to see if it gets even better. It's a cheap experiment (probably will actually cost nothing since most people have plenty of lighter points laying around) that he can reverse with no loss if it doesn't help. I actually use different point weights  (50 gr. lighter) when bare shafting to give me a heads-up before I cut a shaft too short with the point weight I want to shoot. When I see it come in, I know I am close.


----------



## ChrisSpikes (Feb 18, 2010)

Roger, the advice you're offering will most certainly work for an overwhelming majority of shooters.

But like I said, I'm not the norm.  Not even close.  There's something about my release that lets me shoot VERY light spined arrows.  

I have two arrows that I shoot out of a 64# @ 28"(I draw 27.5") Predator WITHOUT the shelf built out.  One is a 30.5" GT3555 with standard insert and a 200 grain point.  The other is a GT3555 cut to 29.75" with 100 grain brass insert and 200 grain point.  Either one of these arrows will bareshaft out of my bow out to 40 yards.  Farther I'm sure, but I haven't tried.  

I also have a set of 67# limbs for it that require me to build out the sideplate about the thickness of a toothpick to get perfect arrow flight.

I've shot side by side with TJ, even helped him with tuning his bow.  His arrows fly really well for him.  His bow is 10 lbs. lighter than mine, but he requires a MUCH stiffer spine arrow than I do.  We've swapped bows before, and took some shots just to compare.  When I shoot my arrow out of his bow, it is WAY overspined.  I'd have to drop down to a .600 deflection to get an arrow tuned for his bow.  

Alot of people have great luck using the Dynamic Spine Calculator.  I've read over and over where people say how accurate it is, and that it put them right on the money.  But it won't even get me in the ballpark.  That's why I quit offering advice on arrow setups.


----------



## LanceColeman (Feb 18, 2010)

Roger,

You make a ton of sense and like Chris said you're probably on the right track. To the point I'm not even going to say, "BUT"

Like I said  I'm in the same boat as Chris. and like we both said. We definately are NOT the norm. I always seem to be able to get away and cover more flaws with weaker arrows than stiffer arrows.

carbon spine does not equate like wooden spine. an inch=5# in normal on woodies and even aluminums. not on carbons.

The only reason I mentioned he may want to get ahold of just one 35/55 and try it is because normally when I do see trad shooters with arrow tuning problems?? it's  because they're arrow is not too weak. Normally it's becuase they chosen too stiff an arrow.

It's a simple thing to do when someone has handed them a 15# measure bow in order to get their actual draw length and not taken in to consideration that an extra 40-50#s of pressure is going to compress their draw to an extent. Also Most people will tend to exagerate their actual draw pose when being measured. They don't do it on purpose. But they are consciously thinking of their draw and subconsciously extend to their max. in the trad worl or carbon arrow spines.. an inch goes miles. Peopple do not intentionally do it on purpose. But 90% of the 28" draws out there are really 26.5-27" draws.

Like I said. Like Chris, I'm not the norm. But I do see alot of guys shooting too heavy a spine shaft alot of the times.

I have 2 dozen 35/55 gold tips and a 2 dozen 55/75 goldtips. I can shoot all 48 of them out of every bow here. I keep 250gr screw ins in the 33/55s and I keep 190 glue ons glued to 100gr adaptors in the 55/75s.

But if I fudge short, get in an awkward angle, botch a shot?? The lil 33/55s cover most that up for me. the 55/75s will tattle tale everytime I make a mistake.

Ya prolly right Roger. BUt if he has one handy it never hurts to check it out. All the calculators, charts and graphs in the world can never take the place of actually shooting that particular arrow.

But like you said a 30-30.5" 35/55 with 300solid up front is closer to the scale of a 40-45# bow in my stable. an inch of length means miles of spine on carbons


----------



## schleylures (Feb 19, 2010)

ya'll go guys all of you making absolute a lot of sense for me.


----------



## RogerB (Feb 19, 2010)

Lance,
I agree that almost everyone that has arrow flight problems are shooting too stiff arrows (I don't think I have ever seen some one shooting too weak). I also agree that alittle too weak is much better than alittle too stiff. I also agree that he should try 3555s. My only point (and I took too long saying it) was to try some different point weights to see which was best. The calculators, charts and graphs have never worked for me either.


----------



## schleylures (Feb 19, 2010)

I wish I had you three in my yard where we could get real seirous about this. Instead of on a web site. I would be willing to bet that we could do it without a punch thrown and have a well of time at 
Lance, Roger, Chris, I got one question why do all the true experts  like you guys and Howard Hill go by there real names.


----------

