# Tractor won't start



## jl840 (Sep 16, 2008)

Anyone can help with some trouble shooting. Tractor could be jump started in the past now it will not do anything when I turn the key even when I try to jump start it.

John Deere 3020,  both batteries read 12 volts on the meter. The batteries are connected in the following manner, right battery   to solenoid, left battery  to starter. Negatives are connected together, with no ground strap. I check for voltage at the starter, solenoid, and ignition, still get nothing.

Any ideas or what to check. Thanks.


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## Twenty five ought six (Sep 16, 2008)

Sounds like a bad key switch if you are not getting voltage at the starter, or at ignition.

Are you getting voltage on one side of the ignition switch?  That would be the side from the battery.  If not,  you have a wiring problem.

Is it a diesel.

If so, try pulling it off (chain and another vehicle).  

Also, just to eliminate any problem with the starter, by pass the ignition switch by jumping off directly to the starter terminal.  You might want to get someone who has done this before.  

When you say you checked for voltage, did you use a meter?


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## lawdawg915 (Sep 16, 2008)

*Battery*

The batteries can still be bad and show 12 volts on a meter while they are sitting static.  To check them correctly, apply the metter to the batteries and turn the switch.  Check to see what the meter does.  if it pulls down to nothing, you need new batteries.  If it maintains 12 volts, ou have a wiring problem somewhere.  Same thing happened to me and it was the batteries.  Hope this helps.


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## stravis (Sep 17, 2008)

Also check your battery cables and connection points.


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## tylernext (Sep 17, 2008)

Negatives are connected together, with no ground strap. I check for voltage at the starter, solenoid, and ignition, still get nothing.

you need a ground from the battery to the tractor.


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## robertyb (Sep 17, 2008)

stravis said:


> Also check your battery cables and connection points.




Bingo,

I got on my Ford two weeks ago and hit the key and nothing at all happened. It usually at least clicks if it does not crank. I pulled the connections and cleaned them and put them back on and it fired right up.


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## jl840 (Sep 17, 2008)

To clarify: using a volt meter I check for voltage at the starter, solenoid, ignition switch and there is voltage at all these points. I also have cleaned battery terminals and ensured the connection. Is there a way to check the switch?


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## Milkman (Sep 17, 2008)

jl840 said:


> To clarify: using a volt meter I check for voltage at the starter, solenoid, ignition switch and there is voltage at all these points. I also have cleaned battery terminals and ensured the connection. Is there a way to check the switch?




If you have voltage on the solenoid coil terminals it shoud be pulling in and applying voltage to the starter motor. Are you hearing a click or snap in the solenoid?
If so, you have either a bad solenoid or starter motor. I assume you know that the engine will turn, and hasnt locked in some manner.


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## Twenty five ought six (Sep 17, 2008)

> Is there a way to check the switch?



Sure.  Figure out which wire goes to your starter solenoid. 

Now, double check, and make sure that there is voltage on the switch post that has the wire from the battery coming to it.

Now connect your meter to the switch terminal, or wire, that  that goes to the solenoid.  Ground it, it should show no volts.  Leave it grounded, turn the switch, meter should show 12 volts.

Double check.  

Disconnect battery. Put meter in ohmeter mode.  Put one meter terminal on the wire that comes from the (now disconnected) battery.  Put the other meter terminal on the wire that goes to the solenoid.  The meter should not do anything.  No continuity.  Now turn switch to "start" position, you have continuity and meter needle should jump all the way over.  When you release switch, and it goes to "run" position, meter should show no continuity again.

But I'm like Milkman, if you are sure that you voltage at the solenoid, AND the starter, sounds like a bad solenoid or starter.


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## jl840 (Sep 18, 2008)

There is no click or anything. I know the solenoid and starter is good just had it rebuilt and new solenoid put on.


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## Bitteroot (Sep 18, 2008)

Check the neutral saftety switch. Usually the conector is located just under the dash on the left side. Disconect it and jump it and see if the tractor will hit. DO NOT DO THIS FROM THE GROUND. Sit in the seat and hit the starter. Also, if it is the problem, replace the switch imediately, it may save you life!


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## Milkman (Sep 18, 2008)

I went back and read your original post again. 
If you dont have voltage on the large terminal of your starter you have voltage/battery problems.

Does your starter look kinda like the one in the pic?

If so, you should have power on the large terminal at all times and voltage on the smaller terminals only when your start switch is engaged. Check with the meter from the large terminal of the starter to the ground post of the battery. If voltage is there then something isnt letting your start curcuit send power to the solenoid. Look for open safety switches if your tractor has any


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## W4DSB (Sep 18, 2008)

across the batteries does it read 24 volts?
negatives together sounds like they are in series thus 24 volts
or are they 2
 6 volt batteries in series to make 12 volts?
how many filler caps on each battery?


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## Gaducker (Sep 18, 2008)

Put it in netrual.


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## robertyb (Sep 18, 2008)

Gaducker said:


> Put it in netrual.



LOL, Duhhhhhhhhh!  Been there and done that.


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## rip18 (Sep 18, 2008)

I would have guessed starter solenoid as well.

Besides being in neutral, it could be that the PTO shaft is engaged & the safety switch above is kicking in...  Don't you hate it when that happens?


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## backlasher (Sep 19, 2008)

*jd 3020*

It might have a neutral switch but does not have anyother safety switches. remember this is an early model 70's tractor.


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## stravis (Sep 25, 2008)

Gaducker said:


> Put it in netrual.



and make sure the pto is off. (I've done both)


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## Milkman (Sep 26, 2008)

If you havent already looked at it, this site has lots of stuff for most older model tractors. You may be able to order a service manual or wiring diagram with all the information you  need.

Here is a direct link to the JD 3020.
http://www.ytmag.com/cgi-bin/store/...rea=JD&&md=3020&cat=Electrical System&r=mcats


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## shoot870p (Sep 29, 2008)

*connection at STARTER*

double check the connections including the starter fot corrosion. remove and clean if ANY doubt. Guess how I found out about this!!!
little bit of corrosion will open it up for you.


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## jl840 (Sep 29, 2008)

Thanks for assistance. I had the starter rebuild, rewired the tractor, and hooked the batteries up as the book stated (the problem) and it turns over. Just got to get it to start now. This tractor is wired as follows: left battery positive to ground, negative to solenoid, right battery negative to ground,  positive to starter.


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## Twenty five ought six (Sep 29, 2008)

> This tractor is wired as follows: _left battery positive to ground,_ negative to solenoid, _right battery negative to ground,_ positive to starter.



Are you SURE that is correct.  Do you still have the batteries connected?

Also, the solenoid should have a positive wire going to it.  If you get it to fire you are going to burn up your alternator, and probably your solenoid.


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## jl840 (Sep 29, 2008)

That was straight from the service manual.


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## jl840 (Sep 29, 2008)

Twenty five ought six said:


> Are you SURE that is correct.  Do you still have the batteries connected?
> 
> Also, the solenoid should have a positive wire going to it.  If you get it to fire you are going to burn up your alternator, and probably your solenoid.



24V system, it has no alternator. It has a generator. This is how the service manual's wiring diagram has it wired? I'm no mechanic, is this not correct?


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## Twenty five ought six (Sep 30, 2008)

A 24 volt system would have the batteries connected in series --that means that the negative post of one battery is connected to the positive post of the other battery, so that you have one negative free and one positive free.

The negative is the ground, and is connected to the tractor frame at some point, usually a bolt right there in the battery case.  Then the positive (usually red ) heavy gauge wire goes to the starter, and there is a smaller wire that goes to the solenoid.  From the solenoid, there will be another wire going back to the key switch.

The way that you have it wired, you are only using 12 volts from one battery for the starter.

If I read your post correctly, you don't have the batteries connected to each other, which would be necessary to obtain 24 V.  

If you can send me a copy of the schematic from the service manual, I'll look it over for you (PM on the way).


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