# which glue?



## deersled (Aug 19, 2007)

I'm finishing up my first woodie. This is what I've done so far. I've stained it, painted some lines on it(nothing fancy) then applied 3 coats of polyurethane. I've been doing some reading and I'm a little confused about what type of adhesive I should use. I've got some liquid superglue, goat tuff glue, and just bought some Duco cement (read on Tradgang where it seems to be fairly popular). Which one of these, if any, would hold feather fletch reliably over the polyurethane? Thanks


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## deersled (Aug 19, 2007)

oh yeah, does anybody know how to start a thread on Tradgang.com. I can't see where you would do it. I've logged in, but just don't see it.


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## OconeeDan (Aug 19, 2007)

For tradgang, there is a little silver (grey) button in top right corner "new topic".
Can't help with the glue question.
Dan


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## Al33 (Aug 19, 2007)

I would "think" the Duco would work best. Superglue, as I understand it, is primarily for carbons. You can can go with fletch tape also.


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## frankwright (Aug 19, 2007)

http://www.3riversarchery.com/ListProduct.asp?offset=3

I have used Duco in the past and it works well but boy is it slow. You need to give each feather at least 20 minutes in the clamp before removing.

For the last five years I have used nothing but the Fletch tape on wood,carbon and aluminum arrows to glue feathers. A drop of glue at the front and back of each feather and you are done.

If there is a downside, it is that you usually have to mail order it as I have found it hard to find in an archery shop.


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## deersled (Aug 19, 2007)

That's the one item I failed to order(tape). I hate to make an order just for it with shipping and everything. My next order will definitely include the tape. But for now, I was checking to see what ya'll think might work. Does that Duco come off easy when you need to refletch?


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## OconeeDan (Aug 19, 2007)

No, Duco does not come off easy, you need to basically scrape it off.  
You may want to try plain ole Bohning Fletch tite.


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## reviveourhomes (Aug 19, 2007)

You can get Duco at Wal-mart. I use fletch tape now and wont ever go back to glues. I wish I would have started using it long ago. Its not only easy but on woodies if one of your feathers gets messed up you can pull it off without ruining your cresting unlike glue.


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## reviveourhomes (Aug 19, 2007)

If there is a Archery shop near you, which I think ther is in Newnan they should be able to order the fletch tape cause its made by Bohning. My local shop ordered some for me.


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## fflintlock (Aug 19, 2007)

Gables Sporting Goods opened a shop up in Newnan, did'nt they ? They may carry it, or at least can get it for you.
Jerald


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## Lowjack (Aug 19, 2007)

"Fast set Gel" works very fast and stays on.


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## FVR (Aug 19, 2007)

I use Duco for the fletchings.  When they are dry, I always put a dab of superglue on the front and back of the fletching.

I use the hot melt shellac for the points.

If you purchase field points new, take them and soak them in acetone then wipe off.  They come lightly  oiled in the bag and many times the oil prevents the glue from sticking to the point.  Use a q tip to get the insides of the point.

I glue three fletchings on at a time.  I glue, set up, and wait 30 min.  Can not imagine doing one fletch at a time.


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## reviveourhomes (Aug 19, 2007)

Thats the beauty of  fletch tape you can do a dozen arrows in about 30 minutes and no dry time wait. 

And I have never had a feather come off unless I wanted it to. And when you pull them off it doesnt mess your cresting up at all.

Some people put a drop of glue on the front and back of the feather with the tape but i have never done that and still never had a feather come off. A roll cost about $10 and it will fletch probably 3 dozen arrows.


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## Slingblade (Aug 20, 2007)

I've picked up the fletch tape at Bass Pro.


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## deersled (Aug 20, 2007)

Thanks everyone. I guess I'll just have to get me some tape. WARNING!!!!! Stand by for many more questions!!


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## Al33 (Aug 20, 2007)

deersled said:


> Thanks everyone. I guess I'll just have to get me some tape. WARNING!!!!! Stand by for many more questions!!



Bring 'em on Kevin, if we don't have an answer we will make one up for you.


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## reviveourhomes (Aug 20, 2007)

Thats right Kevin bring em on. Thats what we are here for Bro!


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## deersled (Aug 20, 2007)

You asked for it......How bout putting a nock on? My arrows are pre-tapered for nocks. I read something about lining up the grain with the nock? Can you explain?


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## Al33 (Aug 20, 2007)

deersled said:


> You asked for it......How bout putting a nock on? My arrows are pre-tapered for nocks. I read something about lining up the grain with the nock? Can you explain?



Never heard that before, I just line 'em up so they are perpendicular to the cock feather.


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## reviveourhomes (Aug 20, 2007)

You have to line them upagainst the grain that way if you bust a nock the force of the string doesnt split the shaft. What you do is look at the shaft and put the runouts on top and bottom of the shaft. Imagine your shaft sitting on the shelf of your bow. If your run-outs are on top and bottom of the shaft then that means the grain is running from left to right. That way your string were the nock to break would hit the full force of cross grain. If you did it with the run-outs on the left and right of the shaft the grain would be running from top to bottom of the shaft and the force of the string would split right between the layers.

Is that clear as mud?


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## deersled (Aug 20, 2007)

Another....what's a run-out? I can see grain on 2 sides of the arrow, running length wise along the shaft. The other 2 sides don't appear to have a visible grain.....should these 2 "clear" sides be on top and bottom?


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## reviveourhomes (Aug 20, 2007)

Ok what you should see is "Lines" running down on the left and right of the shaft as it sits on your shelf. Theses lines are the layers of grain you want those to be running across the arrow that way your string would not split into one of those lines and break the shaft if the nock were to bust. Does that make sense? Its really hard to describe with showing you. I will try and find a good pic. Be right back.


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## reviveourhomes (Aug 20, 2007)

Also it depends on what wood it is. Sitka and Cedar has grain that is really visable but stuff like Ramin, Ash and others its really hard to see the lines.


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## Slingblade (Aug 20, 2007)

Run-out looks like the end of a feather, you want this parallel to the shelf when the arrow is nocked.


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## reviveourhomes (Aug 20, 2007)

Ok these are some Sitka Spruce arrows I had. If you look at the arrows 2,3 and 4 from the bottom you can see lines that run down the length of the shaft, you want those on the left and right if it were sitting on the shelf. 

Now arrow that is 6th from the bottom, you see that little swirly looking thing right next to the cap? That is what is refered to as runoff. You want these on top and bottom of the shaft. Look at the position of the runoff and then look at my nock on that arrow and imagine were the string would be.

Does that make sense? Let me know if it doesnt and I will look for some better pics to describe it.


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## deersled (Aug 20, 2007)

Gotcha! The "clear" section of my cedars is not so "clear". I can see the little lines coming to a point like on a topo map, kind of. These go on top and the grainy sides on the left and right. Right?


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## reviveourhomes (Aug 20, 2007)

Yes, one thing is that if you have a natural stain the run-offs are probably harder to see.
The little "Topo points" should be on top and bottom and the lines should be on the left and right if your arrow were resting on the shelf.


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## deersled (Aug 20, 2007)

I'm pretty sure I see what you're describing. Should I use this Duco cement that I've got to glue this thing on? Should I lightly sand the taper or just leave it? Figured I'd get my money's worth while I have you.


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## Slingblade (Aug 20, 2007)

Here is probably my most extreme case of runout I have laying around here ( This is POC).  Another reason it was explained to have the nock and runout perpendicular to each other was that the arrow was less apt to snap due to archer's paradox.  Duco will be fine, I have a friend in Texas and that's all he uses for nocks and feathers.


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## reviveourhomes (Aug 20, 2007)

Good pic slingblade!

That gives a better idea of runout. I have never even thought about the paradox idea. Thats very true!


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## deersled (Aug 20, 2007)

Man, you guys are GREAT!!!! Looks like you're gone now, though. One more for later, I've cleaned the field points with acetone, is the duco o.k. for it, also. Or should I use this Ferr-L-Tite glue stick I got? Especially if I may want to remove the tip in the future???

Ya'll really don't know what you've got yourselves in to, cause I am JACKED. This is so COOL!!!!!!!!!!

I'll put the knock on and then wait for ya! Thanks


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## reviveourhomes (Aug 20, 2007)

Use the ferr-L-tite to put the point on. That way you can take it back off later if need be.

Believe me when I started 2 years ago I was the same way, I had a question every 30 minutes! LOL

So keep pounding away and we will try to answer everyone that we can.


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## Slingblade (Aug 20, 2007)

I have always used hot melt aka Ferr-L-Tite for points; the reason I like the hot melt glues, is the ease with which you can re-postision a point if it's not on straight.  I always glue on the point and cool it with a few squirts from a water bottle and then spin it to check for true.  I'm kinda anal when it comes to points being on true and shaft straightness.  You would never know it by the way I shoot though!!


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## deersled (Aug 20, 2007)

alright, got my nock on. Gotta go to my sons football game, so I'll work on the tip later. Once again, thanks.


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