# The Packhorse



## Sharps40 (May 15, 2015)

This one sold as good condition.

Not really.  

High pressure firearms, in my opinion shouldn't have screws drilled and tapped clean into the bore.  Mostly they stay in place, until they come squirting out and wanging around the range bumpin into folks.

For example, this 44 Magnum.....Home shortened and front sight customized......







After backing out the sight screw about 1 turn, metal, probably bullet fouling trapped in the screw threads that protruded into the bore, fall to the bottom of the barrel and as you can see, sight is poorly/unsafely installed.






Two holes were drilled, looks like very dull bits and likely not jigged properly. Front is a giant hole for the tiny sight ramp alignment pin....back hole was started off center and then respotted and redrilled and finally tapped all the way thru into the bore of the barrel. 






And in case you still can't believe it.....a bent q-tip passes thru the rear hole and out the muzzle.






Consider working with the seller for a gunsmith inspection and certification on your end and the right to refund on any purchase.

So......To the repairs.  I spose this will be the only OMBH Vaquero Sheriff Length 44 mag that I know of.  Sans a front sight, the repairs up front will be done.  Guts look good, except for the heavy filing of the cylinder pawl.....seems an attempt at reversing cylinder direction that didn't come to fruition.  The pawl is serviceable but I may scout about for a Ruger Conversion Pawl.  

Finall, Right grip panel was split out the inside from over torqueing, glued and bolstered with a sleeve from a gutted pen......other than that, I think we are okay but havn't busted a cap on it yet.  Still gotta gauge cylinder gap and headspace before I shoot it.

If its a shooter remains to be seen.  But the bore looks good and we have good ammo to test it after the rain lets up.  I ain't lookin forward to firing this mug with that factory knuckle breaker of a grip.

Barrel is shortened to about 3.639"inches.  Crowned 11 degrees and the circumference rounded over.  (Nicely, the Ruger banner was saved, I believe its the same as the owners birthplace and retaining the banner was desired.)  The original ERH screw was a size 6 so the barrel was drilled and tapped for a quality 6x48 screw and then ground back for stud and pinch nut arrangement.  The original ERH screw was temporarily converted to a 6x48 pinch nut.






A 50th anniversary steel ERH was shortened for use on the new barrel.  The Ejector rod and spring was similarly shortened.  I need to check function at the range, naturally, cases will be "plucked out" on the shortened system.  Additionally, the Cylinder pin was slightly shortened and an additional ring groove added to increase ejection stroke.  We'll see if its all enough on range day.






ERH installed. 






All in but the sight and range check.


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## Sharps40 (May 15, 2015)

Continuing along, time to fit the NMBH Bisley grip frame to the OMBH receiver.  The grip is bigger than the receiver, upper ears are taller and need knocked down a bit.

Here on the left not so bad, an easy clean up......






Here on the right, the frame ear is much lower from the factory and both the right grip ear and to some extent the left frame and grip ears will have to be brought down a bit more to even up the fit to the smallest part ...  the small part being the receiver ear on the right side.






A bit of careful file work and the grip frame now matches much of the frame ears.  Still a bit of dip where the frame ears curved down at the edges, as highlighted by the remaining bluing on the frame.  Can't work it totally out and still maintain a flat relatively straight surface, so we'll make it very close and trick the eye by working the outer edges....






Slightly rounding over the outer edges gives us the straight look we want without having a dip at the seam where grip meets frame.  Dragging a fingernail over the top of the seam and you can just feel the joint where the receiver dips over.....it needs just a touch more filing there.  So, I finished out the top and the round over with smooth cut swiss pattern files and some sanding/polishing with a jitterbug and the fit now looks and feels pretty fine and no serious dip in the middle!











Gotta convert the NMBH Grip frame to OMBH trigger return spring.  Fill the pocket behind the trigger with steel for the OMBH coil spring and plunger.  To drill a center hole in a rod or square, file a teat in the stock, slip it into the drill bushing in the scissors jig and with some good oil, drill away.....A .180" drill makes a nice spring pocket for the .171" diameter spring and plunger.






The .22 LR Case in the grip frame was temporarily pinned in place to ensure function when the NMBH grip was initially fitted to the OMBH frame.  We'll be replacing it with the new made steel spring way on the right.






After flattening the bottom of the new spring way, fitting it and cross drilling for the NMBH trigger spring retention pin, we have to shorten its nose to fit the groove in the grip frame.






Once shortened the back end is tapered to clearance the main spring and hammer strut.  The final step will be to glass bed the spring way in place so that it does not pivot around the retention pin.  If you make up a square filler block ya can fit it tight to prevent it pivoting or glass bed it as well.  In any event, once its in and bedded, it won't pivot and cause trigger clicking noises like an unbedded filler block can.  The click occurs if the new spring way pivots up slightly and the nose of the plunger slips up off its pad on the back of the trigger.  Rember, on an OMBH this spring and plunger was in a hole in the frame so the filler block ya make up for the NMBH grip frame has to be a very snug square block or better, a square or round block that is very tight or preferably bedded or soldered in place.   I may solder it in as I potentially have other soldering to do on this grip frame.


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## Sharps40 (May 16, 2015)

Dispelling any myths from back in the good old days of hand fitted firearms that such were the embodiment of perfection......Not.

Here, upon cleaning up the 44 Mag Safety Conversion hammer we see the flat smooth areas created by polishing and the coarse and angled file strokes of the factory gunsmith at the edges.  Nope, no perfection in the non critical areas.  Even then, costs were drivers and such "Flaws" while not critical and often not even easily noticeable were the shop floor rule driven by command of the ledger books....

A light buff on the cotton wheel should even up the look of the left and right faces......just carefully since the adjacent blued areas are in pristine original condition and overrunning the edges will remove that survivor color.











And to the more modern NMBH Bisley grip panels.  Walnut and in great shape.  No failed finish and no serious marks/dents or boogers and with near perfect Squashed Chickens.  A leveling and rub out with Brownells fff cleans them up nicely and produces a satin smooth finish that brings visual life back to the grain of the wood.  These nice panels will go back on the grip frame I think.


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## SGaither (May 16, 2015)

No rest for the weary huh? I remember this gun from when you posted about it several months ago, should be a hand stinger with heavy loads, short barrel and grip angle.


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## Sharps40 (May 16, 2015)

Every 44 magnum is a miserable devil for the old hand!  Bisley should tame the recoil but betcha the torque is magnified!


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## Sharps40 (May 16, 2015)

Trigger return spring housing is in place.  Its a 44 Magnum so, against any possible recoil issues, I've more than pinned it.  Given the steel frame (gooder threads than luminum) I decided to cross drill and tap, 6x48 and no way we'll ever loose the pin when the grip panels are removed.....Some of these NMBH Grip frames have loose pins and I am forever forgettin which ones and loosing the pin during cleaning.  






The retention screw runs straight thru the new steel spring housing and both sides of the grip, tapped all the way through.






And because its a steel grip and plenty strong and cause I can and cause I always wanted one.....an Uncle Mikes QD sling swivel is added to the base of the grip.  Good for attaching sling or pull (either can be handy when hunting) and if nothing else, a depressed fracture maker for when that dayumed doe just won't quit bawlin and floppin around on the ground.  (I can't recommend tryin to brain a buck, them points can be sharp.)






I'll thin this swivel down a bit later before the final polish.  But, I think I'll make the final installation like it is here, hole running front to back and any sling attachment not sticking out perpendicular to the panels and/or interfering with grip.   Now, neck sling, belt sling, short pull, saddle attachment (always nice to let the horse pack the weight when yer way out in the woods), who knows.  Maybe its jest for looks.


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## Sharps40 (May 16, 2015)

While rootin round in the parts box I found a new Hunter rear sight.  Important since its perfect, its all steel and it fits with slight modification.  Naturally I put it on.  Now there is no aluminum what so ever on this handgun.  And, that's a big deal, to me anyway.


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## Sharps40 (May 17, 2015)

Initial fitting of the steel Hunter sight in place of the aluminum OMBH sight.  Differences include the elevation screw and the hole size for the screw.

The Hunter sight on the Left is modded to work with the OMBH screw (which has no unthreaded shank like the Hunter screw.)  In order to accommodate the OMBH screw the hole in the hunter sight is opened slightly so the OMBH Screw is a free running fit just like in its original aluminum body sight assembly.  A 28 or 29 drill bit does the job for a 6x48 screw.






The sight blades, springs and windage screws interchange, for the most part (some differences between OMBH blades and NMBH/Hunter blades but are workable between sight bodies).  A dab of gun grease on the bottom of the sight holds the pesky elevation springs in place for assembly.  Shown here fully depressed.  Mileage may vary, whether using the OMBH or NMBH/Hunter elevation screw, its length may need adjusted to prevent striking the cylinder at full depression.  For now, I have 2 3/4 full turns of elevation.  Should be plenty and depending on final sight height, will probably add the taller Hunter rear leaf for a wide range of adjustment to suit most bullet weights and velocities.






Here is elevation at about 2 turns out.






And finally, should you loose the elevation screw, any gunsmith anywhere will have a spare 6x48 screw or three that can be quickly shortened and have your rear sight back in working order in double quick time.  If you like, you can even file the little notches in the replacement screw for click adjustment, or find the right setting and lock tight it in place for the field expedient repair.  Finally, the 6x48 screw allows attachment of the various scope mounts and if ya get a wild hair, to fill the sight cut with a removable Fixed Sight Block.


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## Sharps40 (May 18, 2015)

The very last of the last of my old school Uncle Mikes QD Sling Swivels.  From a time when folks knew when to and when not to press the detach button....so, no silly plastic nut on this one to fiddle with, it ain't appropriate for a project gun that is eliminating every trace of potmetal and plastic for wood and steel.  Besides, a locking nut just ain't needed.  And, the body of these old swivels is narrower and shorter by almost 1/4 than the bulky new ones.   Lastly, the plunger can be depressed and rotated with the fingers or if yer into it, they came with a fine screwdriver slot to do all the pressing and rotating.  Been savin this one for the right project.  Guess this is it.

So, soon this old hunk will be ready for neck carry, Tuco style (Watch The Good, The Bad and The Ugly, Tuco was The Ugly.)











Oh yeah, blackmaxed on an OMBH front sight to see how it looks.....still ugly.  Prolly have to fix that.


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## doublebarrel (May 18, 2015)

I like it! BB


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## shakey gizzard (May 20, 2015)

Cool! Thanks for sharing!


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## Sharps40 (May 22, 2015)

I left a gap for a decorative brass wedding band on the end of the ejector rod housing.  Just messing around to see how it look and not sure if the front sight choices will allow keeping it but for now.....






After fitting, soft soldering and shaping an old brass sight eyecup into place....






An application of BWCasey super blue to the ejector rod housing to highlight the new band......






I think I might like it.  It also looks good on two piece rifle and shotgun stocks making a transition from wood to metal, especially with dark walnut or burned figured maple.


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## Sharps40 (May 22, 2015)

A Bisley grip frame has a long slot for the long nosed Bisley trigger.  We are using the 3 screw conversion parts....shorter nose on the trigger and about 3/10" of space in the grip frame to fill up.






A filler block of cold rolled steel is filed into size and soft soldered in place.  The ends that protrude above and below the grip frame are then ground and filed back to flush.  X marks the top of the new filler block here on the inside top of the grip frame.






Here in the trigger guard, the balance of the protruding length is filed and ground down flush.  The blue area is filler block.  It and the inside of the guard bow will be polished up later.






And the rough install, most of the offending gap is now closed.  Final fit will be complete assembly and checking for interference.  If any, it'll be at the nose of the filler block and that can be carefully relieved with a small safe sided file.


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## Sharps40 (May 22, 2015)

Took a break to mow and eat and watch Space Chix on Star Trek.....then put this dude together to see if there was any further tweaking to do on the bottom end.  Looks like its all good and I can move to final fitting and finishing of the lower end parts.  They'll get rust blued for sure.

Hammer back, trigger finds no interference.






Hammer forward, same same and the bit of room in front of the trigger is enough to get the frame on and off the grip without a fight.






And with everything clean and dry, a crisp clean breaking 3.5lb trigger pull with just a touch of take up.....






Not much mileage on this gun at all.  All the conversion parts are just about 100% original blue......I'd say short of some late term butchery, this one kinda laid around the house waiting to start its shooting life.


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## Sharps40 (May 23, 2015)

Almost done modifying the steel ejector rod housing.  In this case, a relief cut to add a bit of stroke and to cam the ejector button out of the way.....allowing removal of the cylinder and cylinder pin with out ever having to dismount the ejector rod housing from the barrel.






Easy to do with the winged cylinder pin....the spring on the ejector rod button can help "pull" the pin.  For reassembly, drop in the cylinder, slightly depress the button and cam it out of the way, cylinder pin drops right into place.






The modification is cosmetically low impact/does not show.






On this side, once the parts are bronzed (old European word, means blued or browned) the mod will be less noticeable on this side.


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## Sharps40 (May 26, 2015)

Final fitting of the grip frame to the receiver.....ears, trigger guard and inside the trigger guard bow.  Pretty much, careful draw filing, power sanding and some final sanding by hand.  Working with parts from different eras and models and its about as close as it can get,  Approaching 95% on the grip now.  Time to order the front sight assembly.
















Tedious work but nothing worried me today cause Sunday evening I got to sleep in camp with a baby fawn.


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## Sharps40 (May 30, 2015)

Good helper in the shop today.  My granddaughter expressing desire to learn the Gun Smithing trade.  I think we'll be working on her shotgun together as soon as this one is done.

But, here we go....African/Bodington/Whatever ya want to call a banded full  length ramp front sight with interchangeable blades/beads/fluorescents and locking elevation adjustment.....

File off the markings that won't be covered by the barrel band.  Leave the front of the barrel round so the band will be round at its most visible spot, out front.






Lots of resizing lube and drive the barrel band on and off several times gently stretching the .040" thick band to the tapered shape of the barrel (oh yeah, trim the tail of the ramp to the length ya want first.....in this case I trimmed it so it would just barely touch the topstrap).






Once driven on and off, its tight but not too bad.....it can be leveled with a wrench.....level it to the top strap.






Using the sight ramp as the guide, spot and slightly drill recesses for the locking screws.






With lapping compound and lots of oil, use the wrench to lap the band to the barrel.


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## Sharps40 (May 30, 2015)

Assembling the roughly treated (filing and polishing will follow) shows the patrige blade in the low position, .6" above the surface of the barrel.






Unlocking the right side screw, the blade (or beads or whatever ya wind up selecting) can be elevated just over 60 thousands more.






A slight backcut will need to be filed into the ejector rod housing so it can overlap the barrel band without a gap.  Oh yeah, I spotted and drilled a hole in the barrel band for the ejector rod retaining stud and nut.  If the slit in the underside of the ejector rod housing is closely fitted, the band should prevent housing movement and lessen the chance of a sheared screw later on.  





















Todays helper is MuddyGirl27 and you may not ever get to shoot this 44 Magnum cause I think she likes it more.


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## Sharps40 (Jun 4, 2015)

Tedious work, undercutting the ejector rod housing just about 40 thousands or so to fit over the barrel band.  Curved underside of the ERH and it Flares to the Muzzle end....so, none of the lines are straight and parallel in the directions ya think when its off the gun.  Dremel, sanding drum, drill bits wrapped with sandpaper, small hand files, fit and try fit and try.  Here about 1 hours work and the rough fit.  The last few thousands will take an hour or three more.

The undercut on the front third or so of the ERH......not much but lots of work to get this far.






I switch back and fourth working the upper line and the lower line.  Here I see, I need to work again on the lower line to fit the upper more closely.....hard to do by hand but satisfying when it finally gets done. 






From above, I again see, I need to remove metal from the lower line to pull the ERH in tighter up top....perhaps a few thousands gap now but I'd like to close it a bit more if I can.






From below, a bit tighter fit and a straighter line....the flare to the front end of the ERH is less pronounced on this side......it sure is hard to get it right up top though.


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## Sharps40 (Jun 8, 2015)

The banded ramp front sight is for a rifle.  Its from NEGC.  As such, it comes grooved for a hood.  Don't need a hood on a hangun.  But, I do need a sold brass door hinge to make it right.

So.

The hinge, solid brass.






The hinge thinned and trimmed and the hood grooves deepened and widened......some flux, some solder, a clamp and heat.......and a bit of filing and initial sanding and a touch of cold blue to give the impression of how it'll look when completed.


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## Sharps40 (Jun 9, 2015)

Front sight: .974 low setting +.060 at high setting over bore centerline.

Rear sight: .806 low setting to approximately .936 (short old model sight screw and low rear blade) at high setting over bore centerline.

Therefore, midpoint of the rear sight with the short OM screw and low OM leaf is .871 above bore centerline.

Plenty good. Front sight is 1/10 higher than the rear at its midpoint. 

Change to the longer Hunter model rear sight screw is indicated for a greater range of adjustment (i.e. taller rear sight). As needed, the hunter rear leaf is another .040 taller yet. 

I predict that even if a kiss of metal of the top of the front sight is required, 240g full house loads are going to be relatively inexpensive and quick to zero at about any practical range from Get Off Me to 50 yards.


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## Sharps40 (Jun 12, 2015)

I finally got the ERH fitted to suit me.  If anybody knows where I stashed my layout blue, please PM me.  In any event, I was able to do the spotting in with pipe dope.  Fit and try about 500 times.

The lines look better now up top with the bulk of the high spots gone.







Pretty good on the under side too.  I don't think I can get it much closer, been doin about as much correction from over cutting as fitting on this part of the job.  But its worked out and looks pretty good.  






The lay out on the business end is about right.  The barrel band just behind the round over at the muzzle and the ERH right behind the barrel band, but not by much, its almost even.






Sanded out the file marks by hand and then smoothed things up with the jitter bug.  Broke all the sharp edges on the front sight, especially up top.  It'll all need some work bootstrapping with strips of sand paper yet but 90% and looking fine.  And, the brass strips didn't fall out, yet.  Last thing was to double check level and put 1.5 threads in the top of the barrel.  There is a set screw under the sight.  A second set screw is in place at the mid point of the ramp.  I decided to make a weaver head screw, countersink the ramp and fit it this way.  It'll allow me to easily find level on the final install and by catching 1.5 threads in the top of the barrel, in combination with the front set screw, no solder or epoxy will be required to hold the assembly perfect and forever.  My guess is the fit will be tighter after rust browning the barrel anyway.  Just in case, I broke the under side of the tail of the ramp.  Don't want it scratching its way down the barrel when I drive it back on for the last time.  Just gotta shorten up that mid ramp screw and move back to the back.  The lanyard mount needs a brass spacer and I think I'm going to scallop the frame and loading gate as well as back cut the loading gate.






Last of the parts are inbound.  A hunter rear leaf and a longer rear sight elevation screw.  I hope to have this Packhorse ready for the range in its final brown, black and gold glory by the end of July or mid August.


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## SGaither (Jun 13, 2015)

Sharps40 said:


> I hope to have this Packhorse ready for the range in its final brown, black and gold glory by the end of July or mid August.



why must we wait so long?

With Colt coming close to bankruptcy and S&W a shell of its former self, Ruger can really corner thr market and should consult you for a custom shop option revolvers.


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## Sharps40 (Jun 14, 2015)

HA!  Don't I wish.  

First thing on the list would be a single six short barrel 38 Special +p and we'd also have a Bear Cat in center fire.  We would have a mega frame for revolving carbines in 3030, 3855, 4065, 4570 and 5070 and then we'd add a take down interchangeable barrel/caliber feature to the New Model size frame.


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## Sharps40 (Jun 14, 2015)

All my chores at the house are done, lawn mowed, gate fixed, garage swept, car washed and vacuumed, lawn chairs cleaned and fire pit cleaned.....off the air conditioned shop.

First I finish the front sight ramp.  Trim the screw, shape its head and fit it so it clocks muzzle to butt.






Time again for scallops on the recoil shield.....first cut with the rat tail file.






Almost full depth.  






Straighten and deepen with the round backed file.  Run to the full depth made by the rat tail file.






Once back from the drill press, a bit final shaping and straightening with a 1" sanding drum.......


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## Sharps40 (Jun 16, 2015)

Another bit of brass hinge to make up a decorative washer for the lanyard stud.  Soldered in place and then turned to size.


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## Sharps40 (Jun 16, 2015)

Beginning the rust browning process.  First bite took quick and turned black.  About 2 or 3 hours and we'll see where we're at.


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## Sharps40 (Jun 16, 2015)

First clean up with scalding hot tap water and a rough terry shows typical results.  Spotting and rusting that's uneven.  It'll build with time.  I dried it and then scrubbed it lightly with 0000 steel wool to remove some of the red crust on the barrel.  It was not rust.  Perhaps some gunk in the metal that's coming out with the acids.  Then, coated with Laurel Mountain Brown and back in the rust cabinet for another few hours.


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## Sharps40 (Jun 17, 2015)

Been rusted 4 times now.  Last sit was overnight at 80% humidity and about 80 to 90 degrees F or whatever temp the crock pot on low setting adds to the damp box, plenty warm. 

After each rusting session, its scrubbed down with hot tap water and a rough terry cloth.  I stopped using the 0000 steel wool after the second rusting as the finish was evening up fine I'm going for a more aggressive (textured) finish.  

Probably a couple more sessions today with the rusting and cleaning.  Its not looking like much now but once its in the oil and sealed in beeswax it'll look like every fine muzzleloader.  I'm anxious to start the rust blackening of the other parts that will attach to the frame and barrel.  Ol Rusty looks good in two tone and this here Packhorse should as well.....specially with the brass accents.....











The bore is not provided special protection, no plugs, no laquer, no oil.  Simply a dry patch after each scrubbing and not putting Laurel Mountain in it.  Its perfect, smooth and bright and will stay that way.   The final touch will be one turn of the crowning cutter to remove the brown finish down in the 11 degree target crown.  Leaving a silver ring, surrounded by a brown ring.


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## Sharps40 (Jun 17, 2015)

After about 6 rustings over a little longer than 24 hours.

It looks ruined.  But, it ain't.






A thorough scrubbing with hot tap water and lots of baking soda to smooth the finish and deactivate any remaining browning solution.






After rinsing the browned gun is warmed through and then completely saturated in clean motor oil.






I'll give it about a 30 minute to one hour soak then wipe it down and start coating it with hoppes gun oil tomorrow.  I'll oil it daily while polishing and blackening the remaining parts.  Before final assembly, I'll wipe it down dry and then after warming again, treat it to a good soaking in my favorite muzzleloader lube, 50/50 beeswax/vasoline.


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## Sharps40 (Jun 17, 2015)

A good finish.  I'll keep wiping it with oil for several days and finish it out with the beeswax later.  For now, some quick pics in natural light to highlight the texture.  All the pits and freckling along the top strap are totally hidden.  Color will even up and deepen as the oil go's in and the wax soaks in over top of that yet.  Overall, it will be a nice satin brown and black when done.  I left the ruger blue on the hammer, trigger and pins/screws.  A bit of shine to set them off.


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## Sharps40 (Jun 17, 2015)

These parts polished, (120g to remove most of the freckling and help hid any deeper pitting that doesn't come out) and ready for blackening.






First wet coat of Pilkingtons on and into the damp box for 1 hour to get em started.....meantime, I gotta make up some kind of hanger for some of it.


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## Sharps40 (Jun 19, 2015)

I stopped bluing on the grip and cylinder after the first rust.  Pilkingtons, unlike Laurel Mountain Forge, has no degreaser.  Evidently I didn't get them clean enough and they streaked and spotted.  I'll strip and reblue next week.  In the meantime, the smaller parts, ERH, Sight ramp, gate, etc, all are moving right along and should be done and ready for oil and assembly tonight or tomorrow morning.  Progress.......another step closer to the range and the hunting fields.


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## Sharps40 (Jun 19, 2015)

A project that is an exercise in contradictions.  Too many holes in the barrel.  Brown and black.  Silver and brass.  Coarse and smooth.  Short and tall.  So far, I think its working good.

Blackening the small parts is done.  Carded and oiled and all of it, including the browned frame and barrel, warmed to ouch temperature and saturated in 50/50 beeswax/Vaseline.

Grip and cylinder next week and then off to the range for test firing and initial sighting.  Perhaps even a velocity check with good Parvi ammunition now the bullet speedometer appears to be functional....finicky but functional.

The little bits rust blackened and oiled.






Left side






Right side






Roman nose






Business end






More of the brown and black, coarse and smooth contrast.






NEGC elevation adjustable front sight and Ruger Hunter rear with tall blade.






Brass Patrige Blade






Shooters eye view including scallops and back cut loading gate.


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## Sharps40 (Jun 24, 2015)

Back from Ol Kantuk and cleaned up the cylinder and grip frame one more time....back to bright metal and degreased again with alcohol.  The bluing is taking well and streak free this go round.  Second boil was this morning and I think I should be ready for final assembly this week some time.


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## Sharps40 (Jun 24, 2015)

In the damp box.  90% humidity.  Crock of water set on the lowest of three settings (warm, low, high).  

Ready for its third boiling and carding.











The part, fresh from the third boil in good old tap water.  






Beginning the carding in preparation for the next rust cycle.  Removing all the loose smudge with 0000 steel wool......nope, I ain't degreased a piece of steel wool for this work in years.  Whatever keeps the wool from rusting, don't keep the parts I rub down from rusting.  Course, that may be where I get an occasional spot from but I'm inclined to believe it to be fingerprinting or less than adequate prep work.  In any event, used to degrease the wool but saw no difference in the final output, so, I eliminated that particular step.


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## Sharps40 (Jun 25, 2015)

Parts are out of the last boil, carded and resting in oil.  Final assembly this evening if everything is even and spot/streak free.


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## Sharps40 (Jun 25, 2015)

Some more after rust.  Its normal and it settles down over a period of days or a few weeks.  Not as bad as I expected with the heavier texture on this frame but......






Time to warm it again with another coat of beeswax/vasoline.  Just to ouch temperature after glopping on the mix.






After melting for a bit, hang it to cool and I'll come back for near final assembly.






More photos this evening as this one approaches completion.  As predicted, likely done this weekend and then just to sit until I'm satisfied with the browned finish, maybe another two weeks.

Last of the jobs are to finish knocking back and sealing the brown.  Future maintenance of the finish is as simple as wiping it down with bore butter or other similar muzzleloading finish preservatives.

I need to make up a shoulder nut for the ejector rod housing and blue it.  That'll be from La Salle fatigue proof steel and have a small shoulder in the base to retain the ERH and prevent any movement under heavy recoil.  It can be as simple as a tapered bottom on the pinch nut.

Last item will be to clearance the head of the cylinder pin.  It just slides over the barrel band.  Assembly and disassembly is possible but a bit snugger than I'd like so, that'll get reblued again once clearanced for ease of assembly and disassembly.


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## Sharps40 (Jun 25, 2015)

Coming together.  Still heavily coated in beeswax.  I'll wipe it down and start the follow up with Bore Butter on the brown.






A simple relief on the back side of the Cylinder pin to make room for the band at the end of the barrel.  A bit of touch up blue and the gun assembles and disassembles now with no more difficulty than a factory set up.






A few quick pics.  Not the best light, its fading but you can see the heavy texture in the brown and the smoother black and brass.  Better pics later when the final bits are done and installed......but, This one is looking like it did in fact make that 500 mile solo walk for a Gals heart across the Alaskan Frontier to the Coast....and then back when love wore out its welcome?


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## Sharps40 (Jun 26, 2015)

Finished making the last part for this project.  A shouldered pinch nut to retain the ejector rod housing with minimal movement under heavy recoil.

A section of good La Salle fatigue proof steel.  I like it because it makes great pins, screws, firing pins and takes a fine thread that is strong.  Polishes decent too.






Turn a nipple in the drill press that fits the drill bushing for a 31 drill.  It'll get the hole well centered.






Install the steel rod, nipple first in the drilling jig and drill the 31 hole to whatever depth is needed.






Nipple is gone and the tap size hole is properly centered.






I tapped the threads with a bottoming tap using the drill guide for a 28 drill to guide the tap into the 31 hole.






Now, turn a shoulder in the bottom of the pinch nut that just fits the hole in the bottom of the ejector rod housing. 






Then in the drill press I turned (filed) the 1/4" major diameter of the pinch nut.






After shortening the shoulder and the head of the screw to the proper lengths, I place the pinch nut in a 1/4" dia hole and neatly saw in the screwdriver slot.






Final polish of the pinch nut, check fit, some bluing and finally.......Packhorse is ready for testing at the range!






Its a long way from a hack barreled gun with a screw sticking down into the bore!  Some shooting time and some wait time to monitor the brown and I'll call it done, likely in a week or so.


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## Sharps40 (Jul 3, 2015)

Took the Packhorse out for a ride today and what a ride!  Recoil is firm but manageable and straight back.  No torque with the long Bisley hammer.  Everything worked great.

I took a few shots at 15 yards and then went to steel.  Plenty of range in the sight set up.  I believe it is hitting a bit low for me at 15 but no bench today, all off hand.  A lot of work on the steel and from the marks at 20 yards, the bullet is rising back to close to point of aim.  Will have to try some other ammo.

Only had one glitch.  Pesky cylinder pin rotates slightly when you release it.  Makes it hard to remove.  I'll need to go back and knock a bit more of the wing on its head or better, install one of the cylinder pins that are cut full circumference and have no wing.  I had it in and out quite a bit before shooting and it worked fine but that's what range time is for.....find the last of the needed tweaks and get them done.

Not too bad for me.  I think this one will out shoot me.  Its pure CensoredCensoredCensoredCensored on the steels and loud too!


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