# Installing roof over patio



## buckmanmike (Mar 22, 2011)

I want to put a roof over my patio and then at a later time build deck and screen it in. My question is how do I attach the header board to my house to support the roof. I have vinyl siding over masoninte siding. Can I just cut siding away and nail into second story studs? My new deck will be 16x14. I want to make sure a wind cant come under the roof and take it away.
  I would install new porch roof just under 2nd floor windows to give as much pitch as possible on roof.
  Any advice appreciated.


----------



## Too-Tall (Mar 22, 2011)

The new roof and/or deck should be completely free standing and not supported by the house. Only the flashing should connect the roof to the house.


----------



## skiff23 (Mar 22, 2011)

I would cut out the vinyl as you said. Dont forget to srew it to the studs and use galvanized screws. Letting it be free standing will let it move and not be study enough to me. Also bolt you Pressure treat plate for the floor system to the seals or band on the house using galvanized screws or bolts. And yes , flash the roof for proper protection.


----------



## ratherbefishin (Mar 22, 2011)

Is this going to be a gable roof or lean-to ? If it's a gable roof, you should use the same pitch as your existing roof to make it look right.


----------



## shakey gizzard (Mar 23, 2011)

skiff23 said:


> I would cut out the vinyl as you said. Dont forget to srew it to the studs and use galvanized screws. Letting it be free standing will let it move and not be study enough to me. Also bolt you Pressure treat plate for the floor system to the seals or band on the house using galvanized screws or bolts. And yes , flash the roof for proper protection.



X2 plus hurricane straps!


----------



## Dead Eye Eddy (Mar 23, 2011)

Take off several rows of the vinyl siding up to the bottom of the 2nd floor windows.  It's easy to reinstall.  Find the studs all the way across and mount the top joist with 5" lag screws into the studs.  Mount it about 4 inches below the 2nd floor windows to leave room for the sheathing, shingles, and flashing.  Once the flashing is installed, mount a piece of J-channel just above the new roof.  Then cut a piece of vinyl siding to fit perfectly between the new J-channel and the 2nd floor windows.  Then, mount a piece of J-channel under the new roof and replace the vinyl siding under the roof.  You'll have to cut one piece to fit into the new J-channel and it'll look perfect.


----------



## rjcruiser (Mar 23, 2011)

I actually just built one on my house...single story though, so I tied into the roof joists.  My parents built one on there 2 story house a couple years back...made it a deck out their master on the 2nd floor and had the roof over the patio.

Because it was a deck, it required a bit more strength to be built to code.  If I recall correctly, the header against the house is a 2x10 bolted in with heavy lag screws.  That header is tied into 2nd floor floor joists.  Then, you have hangers that have 4 screws into that header.  I believe it is a 14 foot span from the house to the supports out at the end of the patio.  4x6s were used no more than 16in on center.  Then, the header at the end of the patio was a 4x8.  That header was supported I think no more than 10 feet from each other.  Also, I believe the pitch had to be an inch down per foot.

Again, this was for a deck roof.  If you're not having anyone on top of it, you wouldn't need to have it built as strong.  When I built mine, I ordered all of my supplies from a local Ace builder's supply (Social Circle Ace).  The guy I dealt with (Brad Harper) was very helpful on some of my questions and what I needed.  PM me if you want his number.

I'll try and post some pics of mine later (on my work computer and can't access the pics)  I've got 2 2x6s sandwiched together for the roof joists.  2 2x12s sandwiched together for the header on side away from the house.  Beadboard and wafer board for the roofing, then the shingles on top.  The 2x6s are 24 inches on center...but again, I'm didn't build for people on top of it, just a roof.


----------



## DBM78 (Mar 23, 2011)

rjcruiser said:


> I actually just built one on my house...single story though, so I tied into the roof joists.  My parents built one on there 2 story house a couple years back...made it a deck out their master on the 2nd floor and had the roof over the patio.
> 
> Because it was a deck, it required a bit more strength to be built to code.  If I recall correctly, the header against the house is a 2x10 bolted in with heavy lag screws.  That header is tied into 2nd floor floor joists.  Then, you have hangers that have 4 screws into that header.  I believe it is a 14 foot span from the house to the supports out at the end of the patio.  4x6s were used no more than 16in on center.  Then, the header at the end of the patio was a 4x8.  That header was supported I think no more than 10 feet from each other.  Also, I believe the pitch had to be an inch down per foot.
> 
> ...



I would also use the lag bolts also.


----------



## TAS (Mar 23, 2011)

When you put a roof over a patio there are some restrictions as to how close to a road it can be.  I had some problems with this and the county nixed it.  May not pertain to your set up....


----------



## boneboy96 (Mar 23, 2011)

I'm having a new deck built soon, and the old deck that is coming down was put up incorrectly.  They used 1/4 inch lag screws to tie it to the house instead of 1/2 inch carriage bolts!   Do not use lag screws to attach to the 12 inch band...use carriage bolts!


----------



## GB Young (Mar 23, 2011)

attaching a deck to your band should always be done with carriage bolts. Flashing is cheap insurance, and code. You don't want water intrusion. The whole thing will rot over time without it.


----------



## buckmanmike (Mar 31, 2011)

Thanks for the info. I talked to the contractor who installed the vinyl siding and he said he could remove/replace siding for me on the cheap. So, I will lag new header about 4" below 2nd story windows and when I install deck/porch use carriage bolts  to  1st floor banding. Roof will be a shed type and don't have to worry about road setback. It is for my back yard. Guess I need to make a drawing and get a permit. Thanks again. Mike


----------



## win280 (Apr 1, 2011)

I would not go any closer to the windows that 7-8 inches If you have the room for proper pitch. Rain will splatter onto the windows and cause premature weathering(if they are wood windows.). Make sure you keep windows properly painted.The extra heat from the new roof will cause them to weather quickly.
Flashing and carriage bolts are a must.
Your patio probably has 3 1/2 -4" in of concrete. This will not  properly support the weight of the roof.footings  should be 8"deep minimum.JMO


----------



## jimbo4116 (Apr 1, 2011)

win280 said:


> I would not go any closer to the windows that 7-8 inches If you have the room for proper pitch. Rain will splatter onto the windows and cause premature weathering(if they are wood windows.). Make sure you keep windows properly painted.The extra heat from the new roof will cause them to weather quickly.
> Flashing and carriage bolts are a must.
> Your patio probably has 3 1/2 -4" in of concrete. This will not  properly support the weight of the roof.footings  should be 8"deep minimum.JMO



Good advice on the windows, I had and have that problem and mine are 7 inches above the roof. Put a rubber membrane and then metal flashing also. 

You are also right on the concrete if he is going to set post or pillars directly on it.  I would suggest moving out from existing pad and pouring footings for roof structure.


----------



## buckmanmike (Apr 3, 2011)

Thanks for info about water damaging windows. At my deer camp cook shack water comes off roof, hits deck and "bounces" onto door seal about 8" up. Door seal has rotted.
  Current concrete patio pad is only 10' so new footing will be made.
  Thanks.


----------

