# Long gun converted to snub 38



## sinclair1 (Jun 15, 2014)

I have this for parts as it's dangerous with no tab holding the cylinder. Could it be repaired by putting a tab on the front and a shim kit ? 
Sorry I don't know the proper terms.


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## hayseed_theology (Jun 16, 2014)

First and foremost, have it checked out by a qualified revolver smith.  I am no expert but I will try to help you out since no one else has chimed in.

What make/model is it?  An old S&W Model 10 or some sort of clone?

I assume you are talking about the forward locking bolt that protrudes from the bottom of the barrel and holds the forward end of the cylinder center pin? I assume it was cut off when the barrel was shortened? Is the center pin still there?  If it's still there, the back end of it should be locking in the frame.  Do you still have to push the thumb latch forward to get the cylinder to swing out?

If it is still locking into the frame on the backside of the cylinder, then I think you should be fine (but get a gunsmith to inspect it!).  I think some of the factory stubs didn't have the forward locking bolt.

And to answer your question, another lock can be added to the gun.  They can add a ball detent lock on the top of the yoke/crane.

Hope that helps.  Hope I understood what you were asking.


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## sinclair1 (Jun 16, 2014)

hayseed_theology said:


> First and foremost, have it checked out by a qualified revolver smith.  I am no expert but I will try to help you out since no one else has chimed in.
> 
> What make/model is it?  An old S&W Model 10 or some sort of clone?
> 
> ...


 Thats exactly what I was trying to say. its an old worked over S/W that has been shortened and chromed. It still locks at the back, but has lots of play in the cylinder. I will take it and have it looked at, maybe I can get by with a shim kit like the thread on here that made me think about this old gun. 

Thanks for the info.


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## The Longhunter (Jun 16, 2014)

sinclair1 said:


> Thats exactly what I was trying to say. its an old worked over S/W that has been shortened and chromed. It still locks at the back, but has lots of play in the cylinder. I will take it and have it looked at, maybe I can get by with a shim kit like the thread on here that made me think about this old gun.
> 
> Thanks for the info.



Look at Colt revolvers.  They don't lock the front of the cylinder pin and they do fine.

What  you want to be concerned with is does it lock up tight when cocked.


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## sinclair1 (Jun 16, 2014)

The Longhunter said:


> Look at Colt revolvers.  They don't lock the front of the cylinder pin and they do fine.
> 
> What  you want to be concerned with is does it lock up tight when cocked.


 I fired it a few times, but it has a lot of play. I think I will see if I can get it shimmed. Thanks of the input.


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## The Longhunter (Jun 16, 2014)

You might want to check that the cylinder pin/ejector hasn't gotten slightly bent.


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## TrailBlazinMan (Jun 17, 2014)

This needs to be seen by a revolver 'smith. There are too many important alignments to describe in forums.


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## ted_BSR (Jun 17, 2014)

From the photo, I don't think I would even attempt to fire this gun. The frame is all jacked up behind the cylinder. It looks like someone has already had some trouble with it. Get it looked at by a smith.


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## SGaither (Jun 17, 2014)

ted_BSR said:


> From the photo, I don't think I would even attempt to fire this gun. The frame is all jacked up behind the cylinder. It looks like someone has already had some trouble with it. Get it looked at by a smith.



I think that flange is made like that so that the cylinder axle will fit into the frame, but I could be mistaken.


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## redlevel (Jun 17, 2014)

I am a lover of S&Ws, but that gun ain't worth spending $10 on.  As it is, it is worth _maybe_ $75.  Spend a hundred dollars on it, and it is still worth about $75.  Put it in a box.  Take it out and admire it every couple of months. Buy yourself a nice, older S&W Model 10, or Model 36.


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## Sharps40 (Jun 18, 2014)

That's the original finish and front sight. That's the original barrel, you can tell from the factory notch to clearance the knurled portion of the ejector rod.  It is unlikey the recoil shield is bent/damaged since it would have cracked and lifted either the bright nickel or chrome finish.  The cylinder has a light turn line but not objectionable.  Take it in and have it inspected.  It may well be quite serviceable.  In any event, if it is an old Smith, even non functional, its worth a good bit more than the foolish quote of $75.  See an expert smith....not an internet buddy for more correct information and more appropriate valuation.


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## redlevel (Jun 19, 2014)

I don't think S&W ever made a Hand Ejector with that ejector rod configuration, save for a couple of very early Ladysmiths.  That is probably the original sight, but that doesn't mean the barrel hasn't been shortened and the front sight re-soldered.  I have seen probably 200 of them over the years.  That barrel has been cut.   That is possibly the original finish, because it appears the hammer and trigger retain the case colors, but I seriously doubt it.  The grips are Goodyears, further reducing the value.  

If the gun is at all serviceable, I will revise my valuation upward to $100, but not a dime more.  

I recently bought a refinished, gummed up, but uncut and very serviceable 4-screw pre-Model 10 for $150.  I detail stripped it, cleaned it up, and replaced the mainspring.  It is now my bedside table gun.  Total investment, $175 and a few hours of work.

I believe it had last been oiled 20 years ago with burnt motor oil.


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## sinclair1 (Jun 20, 2014)

redlevel said:


> I don't think S&W ever made a Hand Ejector with that ejector rod configuration, save for a couple of very early Ladysmiths.  That is probably the original sight, but that doesn't mean the barrel hasn't been shortened and the front sight re-soldered.  I have seen probably 200 of them over the years.  That barrel has been cut.   That is possibly the original finish, because it appears the hammer and trigger retain the case colors, but I seriously doubt it.  The grips are Goodyears, further reducing the value.
> 
> If the gun is at all serviceable, I will revise my valuation upward to $100, but not a dime more.
> 
> ...


I think you're right, I am almost positive it's been re chromed and that it was a long barrel. I have attached some more pics and you can see on the barrel it has K38S with the rest of special chopped off. You can also see sanding marks in the logo. It was in the estate of a retired 1950's police officer on my wife's side of the family.


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