# Pulling my hair out HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!



## nkbigdog (Sep 22, 2010)

I purchased from Johns Gun's in Texas a Fully suppressed 1022. Installed a fagan camo stock,volkortsen trigger assy, Nikon 3x9x40 camo scope had the rifle barrel and reciever powder coated in light brown. Here is my problem I have sent it back to Johns guns twice also to two gun smiths.  None can find what is causing this problem, when first round is fired the empty case dosn't fully eject causing a jam.  I have checked the extractor no problem, I have checked the extractor grove in the barrel no problem, I have used 5 different bullet manufactures and I have tried 5 different mags. Including high cap and factory new and used mags still have the same problem.  I hate to spend that kind of money and it not work properly


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## killitgrillit (Sep 22, 2010)

Are you shooting subsonic ammo or hyper velocity ammo.
 Have you radiused the back of the bolt??


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## deputyatnight (Sep 22, 2010)

Can you manually cycle a bunch of rounds through the gun?  If you pull back quickly and the round extract fine, you probably need a different setup, or possible another bolt.  You may want to see if Tectical Solutions (www.tacticalsol.com) can help you out. Those integrally suppressed barrels bleed off  lot of gasses, reducing velocity, and usually don't require subsonic ammunition, so you may want to use a really hot rounds.


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## nkbigdog (Sep 22, 2010)

*Raised the back of the bolt*



killitgrillit said:


> Are you shooting subsonic ammo or hyper velocity ammo.
> Have you radiused the back of the bolt??


Brother I am a firearms instructor with law enforcement in the mountains.  I am not a gun smith I can't answer the question about the bolt sadly I don't know what you are talking about.  As far as the sub-sonic ammo they told me due to the low powder charge not to use it.  I have tried different manufactures, fed,rem, regular and tried cci stingers they all caused the same problem.  I'm just frustraited due to over 2000 in ruger and still can't enjoy.


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## nkbigdog (Sep 22, 2010)

deputyatnight said:


> Can you manually cycle a bunch of rounds through the gun?  If you pull back quickly and the round extract fine, you probably need a different setup, or possible another bolt.  You may want to see if Tectical Solutions (www.tacticalsol.com) can help you out. Those integrally suppressed barrels bleed off  lot of gasses, reducing velocity, and usually don't require subsonic ammunition, so you may want to use a really hot rounds.


I tried another trigger assy and that did not work, I put the volkortsen trigger assy in my other ruger and it worked fine so I  ruled out the trigger assy


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## CAL (Sep 22, 2010)

Clean the chamber really,really good and see if that helps.Sounds like something is slowing down the ejection process some.


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## nkbigdog (Sep 22, 2010)

*www.tacticalsol.com*



deputyatnight said:


> Can you manually cycle a bunch of rounds through the gun?  If you pull back quickly and the round extract fine, you probably need a different setup, or possible another bolt.  You may want to see if Tectical Solutions (www.tacticalsol.com) can help you out. Those integrally suppressed barrels bleed off  lot of gasses, reducing velocity, and usually don't require subsonic ammunition, so you may want to use a really hot rounds.


Thanks for the web address contacted them gave them all the infor and he said he would get back with me.


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## nkbigdog (Sep 22, 2010)

*cleaning chamber*



CAL said:


> Clean the chamber really,really good and see if that helps.Sounds like something is slowing down the ejection process some.


The weapon has only been shot 40 times I have taken a magnifying glass to all parts reciever, barrel, extractor even buffed the barrel channel that the extractor slides in nothing seems to help


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## Coweta Redneck (Sep 22, 2010)

post this to rimfirecentral.com, they know tons about the 10/22


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## fishfryer (Sep 22, 2010)

Just a thought,a damaged chamber could be your problem. I've had a few 22s through the years with chambers scored by firing pin. That will sure mess up ejection. Won't take long to eliminate that one. Brownells has the tool to smooth out the burr,if you have one.


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## killitgrillit (Sep 22, 2010)

take a Q-tip and stick it in the chamber and pull it out and see if it snags on anything if it does it may have a burr you can't see.
 On 10/22 you can radius the bolt on the back to shoot target ammo and it will cycle better. I've done alot of them or you can already buy a bolt that has been radiused, headspaced and firing pin pinned.  A modified bolt really helps on a 10/22.
 check out www.rimfirecentral.com


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## nkbigdog (Sep 22, 2010)

7Mag Hunter said:


> Hyper velocity will still give you the sonic crack....Only
> way to get absolute quiet is to shoot std velocity LR
> or subsonic....
> Got a buddy with a stock 10/22 with screw on supressor
> ...


Thanks for the opinion but I don't use sub-sonic a suppressor lowers the sound it does not make it a hollywood silencer.  I under stand any time the bullet achives more than the speed of sound it will crack.  The problem is the failure to extract before another shell is chambered. Thanks for the info


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## 1devildog (Sep 23, 2010)

bigdog, got a ? for you. Explain your jam, does the empty fully leave the chamber and drop there? does the empty stay in the chamber? is the bolt traveling back far enough to grab the next round out of the mag and causing a double feed jam? how does it do just feeding one into the chamber and dropping the mag out, single shot?


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## monkeytoys (Sep 23, 2010)

since you have another 10/22 try the barrel off of it to see if it still jams.  if it doesn't, then the suppressed barrel is most likely to blame.  It is very possible that it has a match type chamber that is very tight.  I'm amazed that John's guns can't resolve the issue for you.  not that I've had any dealings with them, but it sounds like they should be able to duplicate the issues that you are having and fix it.  it may also be that there is the burr in the chamber holding the shell casings also.  

you could completely paint/mark a 22 round with a black sharpie and chamber it.  when you take it out, you should be able to see if it's catching on something.  if it is, it will remove the black ink.  

it could need a break in period??? once you get 500-1000 rounds it might loosen up????  not sure if you want to shoot it and clear it that much though.


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## nkbigdog (Sep 24, 2010)

*bolt travel*



1devildog said:


> bigdog, got a ? for you. Explain your jam, does the empty fully leave the chamber and drop there? does the empty stay in the chamber? is the bolt traveling back far enough to grab the next round out of the mag and causing a double feed jam? how does it do just feeding one into the chamber and dropping the mag out, single shot?


seems extractor pulls emty casing out of barrel but it gets wedged comming back almost like a double feed.


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## packrat (Sep 24, 2010)

*10/22*

When you say fully suppressed, are you speaking of an integrated suppressed barrel such as a cloak or are you talking about the standard "barrel-end" detachable suppressor? Does it still have the factory recoil spring assembly or has it been modified to a heavier spring. "Sometimes" the aftermarket heavier spring kits do not work well with the cloaked barrels. They are designed for standard barrels to increase the cycling of the bolt. That is an "iffy problem" without knowing all the details. Post a few pics of spent shells and/or jammed bolt. I'd be glad to look at it for free if you are ever in the Toccoa area. I'm about 2 hours from you. Good Luck and wish you the best.


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## nkbigdog (Sep 25, 2010)

*integrated suppressed barrel*



packrat said:


> When you say fully suppressed, are you speaking of an integrated suppressed barrel such as a cloak or are you talking about the standard "barrel-end" detachable suppressor? Does it still have the factory recoil spring assembly or has it been modified to a heavier spring. "Sometimes" the aftermarket heavier spring kits do not work well with the cloaked barrels. They are designed for standard barrels to increase the cycling of the bolt. That is an "iffy problem" without knowing all the details. Post a few pics of spent shells and/or jammed bolt. I'd be glad to look at it for free if you are ever in the Toccoa area. I'm about 2 hours from you. Good Luck and wish you the best.


 Yes it is fully intergrated barrel have not changed the recoil spring. I purchased the weapon from a class III manufactorer of the modified Ruger.  I will takes some photos today and put them up Thanks


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## packrat (Sep 25, 2010)

*Ask*

Also ask the builder if they changed out the recoil spring. It is a simple task that many builders do without thinking about the "very few" repercussions that may come along with it.


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## nkbigdog (Sep 25, 2010)

*Pic's of weapon and double feed*

This is the 1022 and also of a pic of reciever after failure to extract while feeding another round like a double feed


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## blakely (Sep 25, 2010)

Looks like the recoil spring may be too strong. The bolt does not appear to have made a full stroke, so the ejector did not kick the hull out.


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## 1devildog (Sep 25, 2010)

bigdog, is the empty still trapped by the extractor? have you loaded one round and shot it as a single shot yet? if so, did it eject or stay?


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## nkbigdog (Sep 25, 2010)

*one shot*



1devildog said:


> bigdog, is the empty still trapped by the extractor? have you loaded one round and shot it as a single shot yet? if so, did it eject or stay?


I will try one shot and let you know thanks


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## nkbigdog (Sep 25, 2010)

*recoil spring may be too strong*



blakely said:


> Looks like the recoil spring may be too strong. The bolt does not appear to have made a full stroke, so the ejector did not kick the hull out.


 That's my problem brother I am not sure about the recoil spring but the bolt came back enough to feed another round. thanks


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## olchevy (Sep 25, 2010)

My vote is recoil spring or the inside may need to be polished. Mine jammed all the time then I polished it and it now only jams with the occasional bad .22...

Simple trial and error....Take the recoil spring out of your other 10/22 and see if it fixes it...And install the one out of this rifle in the other, if your other .22 starts jamming you know that that is what it is.....If the other one jams and the new one still jams then you know you have two problems with the new one.... recoil spring and x.

The easiest way to find the problem is to simply eliminate all other possibilities, and having another 10/22 will help greatly good luck 

And if nothing else try CCI mini mags....I have yet to see any 22 that will not cycle with them.


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## nkbigdog (Sep 25, 2010)

*I have a factory 1022*



olchevy said:


> My vote is recoil spring or the inside may need to be polished. Mine jammed all the time then I polished it and it now only jams with the occasional bad .22...
> 
> Simple trial and error....Take the recoil spring out of your other 10/22 and see if it fixes it...And install the one out of this rifle in the other, if your other .22 starts jamming you know that that is what it is.....If the other one jams and the new one still jams then you know you have two problems with the new one.... recoil spring and x.
> 
> ...




olchevy I have another 1022 factory and have interchanged all the parts to confirm it was not a parts failure.  I don't know how to replace the recoil spring.  If someone can tell me how I will order it a try. Thanks


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## packrat (Sep 25, 2010)

*??*

Just a guess, but it looks to me as if the bolt didn't get a full stroke. Which "could" be a stiff spring. ALSO, Make sure that the bolt handle will return "completely" to the rear of the receiver with ease. Next thing I'd do is remove the stock bolt buffer, & add a $5.00 polyurethane stop. These just push in and out by hand. They will actually allow just a hair more bolt clearance on the bolt "back-stroke" and will also remove a little mechanical "steel on steel" noise. Just Check, check and triple check that the chambered area is immaculately clean with a thin lubricant. Although this may sound a little far fetched, (After cleaning) just try lubricating the brass on "a few" shells and see if they eject any easier. If they do then you will know that your problem lies within the chamber of the barrel. Integrated Suppressed barrels are sweet but also tend to run much dirtier. It's kinda like trying to shoot a spitball through a straw with a hole in it. Although the spitball goes out the end, the spit & air escape at the nearest exit. Hope this helps, nothing like a toy that won't work properly.

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## nkbigdog (Sep 26, 2010)

*Great Video*



packrat said:


> Just a guess, but it looks to me as if the bolt didn't get a full stroke. Which "could" be a stiff spring. ALSO, Make sure that the bolt handle will return "completely" to the rear of the receiver with ease. Next thing I'd do is remove the stock bolt buffer, & add a $5.00 polyurethane stop. These just push in and out by hand. They will actually allow just a hair more bolt clearance on the bolt "back-stroke" and will also remove a little mechanical "steel on steel" noise. Just Check, check and triple check that the chambered area is immaculately clean with a thin lubricant. Although this may sound a little far fetched, (After cleaning) just try lubricating the brass on "a few" shells and see if they eject any easier. If they do then you will know that your problem lies within the chamber of the barrel. Integrated Suppressed barrels are sweet but also tend to run much dirtier. It's kinda like trying to shoot a spitball through a straw with a hole in it. Although the spitball goes out the end, the spit & air escape at the nearest exit. Hope this helps, nothing like a toy that won't work properly.
> 
> <object width="480" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/qqsieEh9MzQ?fs=1&hl=en_US"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/qqsieEh9MzQ?fs=1&hl=en_US" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="480" height="385"></embed></object>
> 
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Packrat, Great Video I now see the bolt spring they are talking about.  I forgot to mention earlier in post that I installed a neopreem bolt buffer to reduce sound. Thought that may have been the problem and, put a stoct one back in did not change preformance.  Just wondering if I should order several other tension springs for the bolt? possible change bolt to after market also. Thanks


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## packrat (Sep 26, 2010)

*spring*

First, I'd trade springs out between the 2 10/22's that you have and rule out stiff spring. Factory bolt is quality. Also do the chamber clean/greasy bullet test as stated in my other post.


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