# How to...JT's bow setup...Part two



## Kris87 (Aug 4, 2014)

OK, conclusion time.  This one was almost too easy, it'll be short and sweet, but I'll try and fill in some filler for all to learn.  So last night I got all my initial setups done.  Tonight, was the good stuff.  First shot, I shot a bullethole through the paper at 5 feet with a bareshaft.  I thought, whoa, that was good....but I knew I wasn't done.  So I thought I'd measure the cam sync, since I left the top cam ahead of the bottom cam last night.  Let's look at some photos....here's a picture of the top cam draw stop.  





As you can see, the top stop is barely touching the control cable.  Many Hoyt shooters like to advance the top cam more than the bottom since there's more tension on the buss cable than the control cable, this gives the back wall a firmer feel.  Nothing wrong with doing that, not always what I do, but it does feel good at full draw.  Here's where I left the bottom cam:





Now, I normally wouldn't leave one like this, but in this case, I don't have time to shoot in these strings and cables 100%.  As I mentioned earlier, the buss cable has way, way, way, more tension than the control cable does.  It's gonna stretch a little, and when it does, then the cams are gonna be sync'd just about perfect.  But even if they don't, they still feel good just like this.  Keep in mind, on a hybrid system, when one of the cables lengthens or shortens, it raises the vertical POI.  If the buss cable lengthens, the poi raises.  If the control cable lengthens, it lowers.  This bow should settle in just where I'd want it.  

I'd like to note here, when I received this bow, the top cam was behind the bottom cam.  Basically the buss cable had stretched a lot, and the cams were never put back into sync, and the back wall was very spongy.  I'm sure it would have had high misses at distance the way it was.  This is common for Hoyt bows out of the box, and why it's important to go back after an initial purchase and make sure the cams are right after the bow's strings have settled.  If I posted a picture of the cams, which I do have, then they'd be reversed of the ones I posted.  Top not touching, bottom touching.

OK, cam lean.  Don't worry, I'm not gonna go off on a tangent here.  All I want to show is the amount of prelean this bow had at brace.  Just lay an arrow flush against the top side of the cam and see where it intersects the string. As you can see, the shaft is almost centered behind the d-loop.  This isn't excessive, and it's not none.  It's what I call middle of the road, nothing to worry about.  I let the bow, arrow, and release dictate how it ends up.  This is where it shot best, so be it.  





I measured the cam lean on both the top and bottom cam at full draw, and they were ever so slightly still leaning this way \.  Not a big deal.  A lot of guys will tune it out 100% here, and when you do, you will have to move the centershot and change the bow's power stroke to make it tune.  I'm not a fan of that.  

Ok, on to the shooting.  I am a big fan of shooting bareshafts through paper.  Before anyone rushes out and do this, please know it takes very good, repeatable form.  Even I'm not 100% repeatable when it comes to this, as evidenced by the photo I'm about to show.  But you will get the idea of what the arrow is doing.  Here's my results at varying distances:





As you can see, my 5, 8, 12, 15, and 20 foot distance shots were all really good. I left the oops in there as I did have one bad shot, and I didn't turn the nock over how the arrow was shooting best.  Nock tuning is a whole 'nother subject.  Don't worry about that now.  This arrow definitely liked the shaft one way over the other.  

I'm confident if I had taken this bow out and shot at 15, 20 yards, then the bareshaft would have hit with a fletched shaft after these results.  When an arrow is coming out of the bow this straight, it lessens the amount of steering correction your fletching is having to do, and it gives outstanding broadhead flight.  

So here's JT's final product.  





This bow was one of the easiest I've tuned, but then again, I do a lot of Hoyts.  They're easy. They may not have the letoff, and back wall of some of the other brands, but man they sure are accurate and easy to setup when you know what you're doing.  Hope everyone enjoyed the writeup.  I know I left out a lot about what happens when you twist this, and twist that, but I'd be glad to answer any questions.  I do this stuff so people will learn how to work on their own equipment, and become better archers.  I know it's helped me tremendously.


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## Kris87 (Aug 4, 2014)

And a big thanks to Jay Wall, jawja7, for making me the awesome sling in the picture to give to JT.   If anyone is needing a new bow sling, bino strap, rangefinder lanyard, duck call lanyard, then shoot him a PM.  He's a good dude who does awesome work.  Plus he's doing the bbq for us this week at our local shoot.  Thanks cuz!!!!   Send him some business.


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## Jim Thompson (Aug 4, 2014)

Thanks again Kris.  It looks great and I can't wait to get it back in hand and of course in the woods again.


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## LipRip'r (Aug 4, 2014)

When you're shooting bare shaft thru paper, I assume the arrow has field tip as opposed to no tip?


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## riskyb (Aug 4, 2014)

Nice write up hood looking bow too


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## MossyCreek (Aug 5, 2014)

Nice explanation kris 

Loveee the length of those yokes too!

But why only one speed sleeve vs 2 on the bottom, did it tune better for you having less weight by the top cam?
Ive swapped them around on mine and found I gain 3-4 fps with 2 on top and 2 on bottom


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## Randypoo6292 (Aug 5, 2014)

LipRip'r said:


> When you're shooting bare shaft thru paper, I assume the arrow has field tip as opposed to no tip?



Yes sir, it's never a good idea to shoot an arrow with no tip.. It could result in a dry fire or partial dry fire


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## gcs (Aug 5, 2014)

Kris you just need to make your own video of tuning and sell them.


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## Kris87 (Aug 5, 2014)

I corrected a typo I had in the first part about the top cam.  The draw stop there touches the control cable, not the buss.  The bottom touches the buss.  I overlooked that when I proofread it.


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## Hunting 4 Him (Aug 5, 2014)

Dang thats too complicated...I'll stick with my recurve!


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## Jim Thompson (Aug 5, 2014)

Hunting 4 Him said:


> Dang thats too complicated...I'll stick with my recurve!


or be like me and use  both, but let Kris work on the compound


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## Kris87 (Aug 5, 2014)

MossyCreek said:


> But why only one speed sleeve vs 2 on the bottom, did it tune better for you having less weight by the top cam?
> Ive swapped them around on mine and found I gain 3-4 fps with 2 on top and 2 on bottom



Hey Cole.  The Spyder 30 only comes with 20 grains of weight on the top and 40 on the bottom, unlike the longer ATA Spyder 34 and Turbo which use same amount top and bottom.  I'm sure the engineers tried all different amounts and spacing, as they normally do each year, and it just didn't help the little Spyder 30.  Weight like that can affect vertical nock travel since it has a direct impact on the speed of the cam through the shot cycle.  I saw a Vector Turbo that had too much weight on the top from a custom set of strings that tore nock high, which is odd for a Hoyt.


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## Kris87 (Aug 5, 2014)

One good point my good buddy Tracker1 pointed out is that when I reference one cam being ahead of the other, during this explanation, its in reference to the draw cycle.  It's pretty easy to look at the pics and see the top cam is rotated more, or advanced, than the bottom cam.  This means the bottom cam will be ahead during the shot cycle, although I don't think it is for very long.  When this is present, all things equal, this helps alleviate some of the downward nock travel.  For the purpose of this thread, considering the cams at full draw...here's how vertical nock travel is impacted by the cams orientation...If the top cam is advanced more than the bottom, this will raise the back of the shaft through the shot cycle.  If the bottom cam is advanced more than the top, this will lower the back of the shaft through the shot.  It's very similar to how nock height, and rest height affect the same thing.  It's just one more thing that you can tune with a hybrid if you're having some vertical issues.  This is commonly referred to as creep tuning, which is nothing more than finding the sweet spot in cam sync.


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## LipRip'r (Aug 5, 2014)

Randypoo6292 said:


> Yes sir, it's never a good idea to shoot an arrow with no tip.. It could result in a dry fire or partial dry fire



Good point...thx.  Assumed that but making sure.  
So if properly tuned, bare shaft arrows should hit right along side of the fletched arrows on target?  Is that what i'm gathering from the notes & comments?  Is that a way to test whether your bow is tuned?


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## Kris87 (Aug 5, 2014)

LipRip'r said:


> Good point...thx.  Assumed that but making sure.
> So if properly tuned, bare shaft arrows should hit right along side of the fletched arrows on target?  Is that what i'm gathering from the notes & comments?  Is that a way to test whether your bow is tuned?



It's the way I prefer to do it.  But, if you do this, and have never done it before, then please start up close.  Like 10 feet, and move back.  I would go out on a limb and bet that 90+% of bows out there today, would slap a bareshaft sideways into the target at 20 yards.  20 yards is a long ways to shoot a shaft with no fletching correction.  Its not easy for anyone really.  You have to have a perfect shot, perfect release to really make them the same.  Fletching is a wonderful thing, and it can help a TON!!!  If I get one close with a bareshaft, and I like the way its shooting, then I just let the fletching do what it's supposed to do.


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## Kris87 (Aug 5, 2014)

Also, I'm certainly not advocating everyone run out and shoot a bareshaft at their target.  If you don't know how to fix it, you will do yourself more harm than good by seeing what happens.  It's a good test, but be warned!!!


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## LipRip'r (Aug 5, 2014)

Oh there is no possible way i'm not trying it now!  Gotta find out what kinda set up man Ccape is


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## CamoDawg85 (Aug 5, 2014)

*Question*



Kris87 said:


> It's the way I prefer to do it.  But, if you do this, and have never done it before, then please start up close.  Like 10 feet, and move back.  I would go out on a limb and bet that 90+% of bows out there today, would slap a bareshaft sideways into the target at 20 yards.  20 yards is a long ways to shoot a shaft with no fletching correction.  Its not easy for anyone really.  You have to have a perfect shot, perfect release to really make them the same.  Fletching is a wonderful thing, and it can help a TON!!!  If I get one close with a bareshaft, and I like the way its shooting, then I just let the fletching do what it's supposed to do.



Kris - Thanks for the detailed write up on JT's bow. This is super helpful and you are helping a lot of us by doing these. I have one question from it:

1) At what distance from the target does one need to stop shooting a bareshaft if they are flying straight and true? Five yards, ten yards, 20 yards?

Thanks,
Jeff


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## Gadestroyer74 (Aug 5, 2014)

Great info kris just further more why I need to send my bowtech destroyer 350 to a pro and not attempt this lol


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## Kris87 (Aug 5, 2014)

CamoDawg85 said:


> 1) At what distance from the target does one need to stop shooting a bareshaft if they are flying straight and true? Five yards, ten yards, 20 yards?
> 
> Thanks,
> Jeff



Jeff, there's really no rule.  The further you shoot, the harder it will be.  There's plenty of guys that can shoot one at long range, but I don't think its necessary.  I will normally stop at 20, but really, that's not necessary either.  I just do it to see what is happening, and its good form check.  

If you can make one shoot a hole through paper like I posted above at 5 feet, and maybe 10, then it's going to shoot a broadhead awesome.  Even if its still slightly tearing a little, I might not even do anything.  That's why I made the statement about letting the fletching do its job.  You can chase your tail trying to get out a little bitty tear, and its really not necessary.  I just like to use a bareshaft through paper over a fletched cause it shows me what's going on a little easier and a little faster.


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## Kris87 (Aug 5, 2014)

You can see at the 12 foot shot, that the shaft tore a little high.  I would be pleased with that at any distance.  That little bit isn't going to do anything to a fletched arrow.


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## CamoDawg85 (Aug 5, 2014)

Kris87 said:


> Jeff, there's really no rule.  The further you shoot, the harder it will be.  There's plenty of guys that can shoot one at long range, but I don't think its necessary.  I will normally stop at 20, but really, that's not necessary either.  I just do it to see what is happening, and its good form check.
> 
> If you can make one shoot a hole through paper like I posted above at 5 feet, and maybe 10, then it's going to shoot a broadhead awesome.  Even if its still slightly tearing a little, I might not even do anything.  That's why I made the statement about letting the fletching do its job.  You can chase your tail trying to get out a little bitty tear, and its really not necessary.  I just like to use a bareshaft through paper over a fletched cause it shows me what's going on a little easier and a little faster.



Awesome, thanks Kris! I'm going to give it try.

Jeff


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## MossyCreek (Aug 5, 2014)

Kris87 said:


> Hey Cole.  The Spyder 30 only comes with 20 grains of weight on the top and 40 on the bottom, unlike the longer ATA Spyder 34 and Turbo which use same amount top and bottom.  I'm sure the engineers tried all different amounts and spacing, as they normally do each year, and it just didn't help the little Spyder 30.  Weight like that can affect vertical nock travel since it has a direct impact on the speed of the cam through the shot cycle.  I saw a Vector Turbo that had too much weight on the top from a custom set of strings that tore nock high, which is odd for a Hoyt.



Makes sense,I had seen where a guy on AT was taking out his nock highs/lows by playing with different speed nock locations .


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## Kris87 (Aug 5, 2014)

We haven't even talked about grip, which when shooting a bareshaft is probably the most important piece of the puzzle.  You better be on your game, or your shaft might tear the paper off the tuner as it goes through.    I like to test different grip pressures with different bows, and the paper will tell you how the arrow reacts.  If you hold a Hoyt more on the left side of the grip, it will move the rear of the arrow to the right.  If you move your hand more centered, and use more thumb pressure, it will move the shaft left.  This is also important to note, when I shoot an Elite or an Obsession, which like a different grip.  They like more direct pressure dead down the grip and on the right side.  This can help clean up those dreaded big right tears that seem hard to get out.


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## OmenHonkey (Aug 5, 2014)

LipRip'r said:


> Oh there is no possible way i'm not trying it now!  Gotta find out what kinda set up man Ccape is



He's got mine now!!!!


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## MossyCreek (Aug 5, 2014)

Kris87 said:


> We haven't even talked about grip, which when shooting a bareshaft is probably the most important piece of the puzzle.  You better be on your game, or your shaft might tear the paper off the tuner as it goes through.    I like to test different grip pressures with different bows, and the paper will tell you how the arrow reacts.  If you hold a Hoyt more on the left side of the grip, it will move the rear of the arrow to the right.  If you move your hand more centered, and use more thumb pressure, it will move the shaft left.  This is also important to note, when I shoot an Elite or an Obsession, which like a different grip.  They like more direct pressure dead down the grip and on the right side.  This can help clean up those dreaded big right tears that seem hard to get out.



The different types of grips and grip pressures can be confusing when first trying to learn them. I think that would make for a great thread Kris. Showing everyone the most forgiving grips for different bows/cam systems. Im terrible when I try to explain them lol.

And JT... be sure to let me know if you ever get rid of this bow


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## LipRip'r (Aug 5, 2014)

Here are my results.  Shot both arrows twice from 10yds...exact same result both times. Bare arrow slightly higher & fishtailed left. Thoughts?


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## MossyCreek (Aug 5, 2014)

through paper that would be a nock low and left. Your a right handed shooter right?


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## LipRip'r (Aug 5, 2014)

MossyCreek said:


> through paper that would be a nock low and left. Your a right handed shooter right?



Yes.  What do you mean by nock low left?


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## MossyCreek (Aug 5, 2014)

If you shot that through paper it would be the same as a nock low/ left tear in the paper. And a nock left is the most common tear for right handed shooters, usually having to do with grip and torqueing the bow. What bow are you shooting?


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## LipRip'r (Aug 5, 2014)

Ahhh I gotcha...   Obsession Evolution 71/29.5.  Grip removed, index finger touching thumb tip at full draw.


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## hoytslanger87 (Aug 5, 2014)

I just shot my bare shaft it looks Identical to your nock low left. When I got my bow tuned shane sent me a pic, he broke one of my arrows at 25 yards with a bare shaft perfect shot.Then I get it home and cannot replicate that guess I got terrible grip.


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## LipRip'r (Aug 5, 2014)

Yep, sounds like you & I need to work on our grip slanger


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## Kris87 (Aug 5, 2014)

That's really not that bad(especially for a two track bow, hehe..)  Seriously, I would probably just let that be.  That would shoot just about any head very well.  Depending on where your centershot is now, you can move the rest in towards the riser a hair, like 1/32".  Or you can move your grip around to give it less pressure on the right side of the grip.  But all in all, not bad.


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## Kris87 (Aug 5, 2014)

hoytslanger87 said:


> I just shot my bare shaft it looks Identical to your nock low left. When I got my bow tuned shane sent me a pic, he broke one of my arrows at 25 yards with a bare shaft perfect shot.Then I get it home and cannot replicate that guess I got terrible grip.



Haha...when I worked on Mossycreek's bow, I was shooting holes with it way back...like 10 yards, through paper.  But he had a little tear with his grip.  He worked on it some, and in 5 minutes improved his as well.  You just gotta experiment and see what's comfortable, and what the bow wants.  

Ask Bow Only and Pasinthrough how important grip is on a two track bow.  It is very important to help control torque and cam lean.  Levi had to learn a new grip this year for the Elite, but once he did, he obviously did well with it.


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## pasinthrough (Aug 5, 2014)

Kris87 said:


> Haha...when I worked on Mossycreek's bow, I was shooting holes with it way back...like 10 yards, through paper.  But he had a little tear with his grip.  He worked on it some, and in 5 minutes improved his as well.  You just gotta experiment and see what's comfortable, and what the bow wants.
> 
> Ask Bow Only and Pasinthrough how important grip is on a two track bow.  It is very important to help control torque and cam lean.  Levi had to learn a new grip this year for the Elite, but once he did, he obviously did well with it.



I've had a good grip for a long time...


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## pasinthrough (Aug 5, 2014)

LipRip'r said:


> Ahhh I gotcha...   Obsession Evolution 71/29.5.  Grip removed, index finger touching thumb tip at full draw.



My fingers touch the front of the riser very lightly.  Just enough I don't drop the bow.  I find that when I wrap my fingers around the riser it doesn't work so well.  It might be due to how the heel of my hand affects the rear of the grip.  It all just depends on your hand size and what you learn to do that won't affect the riser on the shot.


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## hoytslanger87 (Aug 5, 2014)

Do you see any difference in shooting with the grip on vs shooting off the riser. Ive been shooting off the riser since I got the bow back.

Also since my bow has been bare shaft tuned is it safe to say the nock low left is all me and just some thing I need to work out?


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## Kris87 (Aug 5, 2014)

hoytslanger87 said:


> Do you see any difference in shooting with the grip on vs shooting off the riser. Ive been shooting off the riser since I got the bow back.
> 
> Also since my bow has been bare shaft tuned is it safe to say the nock low left is all me and just some thing I need to work out?



I shoot with the grips on, as its more comfortable to me.  I don't have an issue with them, but nothing wrong with shooting off the riser.  Hoyt grips are among the best in the business, if not the best.  Find some pictures of Reo Wilde or Jesse Broadwater and look at their thumb pad placement on the back of the grip, and also the angle of their knuckles.  Hoyt bows like a grip rotated to the left, and not shot down the lifeline in your hand.  

Can't say it's all you just because someone else tuned it.  Could be several things, could be your grip.  Could be the buss cable has stretched a little causing it, it can.


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## Kris87 (Aug 5, 2014)

Look at this picture of Reo.  You can notice he has the fat part of his thumb pad directly inline with the grip in the back.  His knuckles are at about a 45 degree angle.  The V in his palm, close to his wrist is nowhere near the grip.  This is the exact same grip I try to replicate, and it works well for me.  I've tried to teach some guys to use it, and they say it feels awful and weird.  Just gotta stick with it.  Its hard for me to give one much heel or thumb pressure on the right anymore after doing this one for so long.


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## bowhunterdavid (Aug 5, 2014)

Nice wright up Kris.


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## hoytslanger87 (Aug 5, 2014)

The guy that tuned my bow actually has a pretty interesting thread on archerytalk about the way grip can effect broadhead flight. I never knew it could make that much difference.

I am going to do my best to replicate Reo grip from that pic this should get interesting haha


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## LipRip'r (Aug 5, 2014)

That's actually pretty similar to my grip, with the pressure predominantly on the thumb pad. I just bring my index finger on around tip to tip lightly with thumb so it feels more secure...maybe in doing that I'm torquing


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## MossyCreek (Aug 5, 2014)

With all this bareshaft and grip pressure talk I decided to  go and recheck my spyder turbo I tuned recently and Id say they are flying pretty dang close to the same....

This was at 20 yards. Even went straight down through the shock collar and busted it open. Nock shattered!


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## Cole Henry (Aug 5, 2014)

MossyCreek said:


> With all this bareshaft and grip pressure talk I decided to  go and recheck my spyder turbo I tuned recently and Id say they are flying pretty dang close to the same....
> 
> This was at 20 yards. Even went straight down through the shock collar and busted it open. Nock shattered!
> 
> View attachment 798757



Nice!


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## Tank1202 (Aug 5, 2014)

Good shooting Mossycreek, next time send a broadhead down range with it. Then you will know "all" are good....But your wallet will be lighter.LOL
Great info Kris, thanks.


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## BornToHuntAndFish (Aug 5, 2014)

Great job, Kris.  You sure are making JT a happy camper for the upcoming season.


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## Brewskis (Aug 6, 2014)

MossyCreek said:


> The different types of grips and grip pressures can be confusing when first trying to learn them. I think that would make for a great thread Kris. Showing everyone the most forgiving grips for different bows/cam systems.



That's a great thread idea. It's taken some time to adjust my grip after switching to the Elite Energy 35 this year. I did a lot of reading (mostly cryptic descriptions/explanations on the internet) and trial-and-error, but a thread with a lot of photos probably would have sped up the process.

Thanks for the other 'how-to' threads, Kris.


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## C Cape (Aug 7, 2014)

Great thread Kris with some great info for the guys that may be thinking of some DIY Tuning.  Pretty much the same methods I use to setup a Hoyt bow.  I have noticed the Faktor's and new Carbon Hoyts are liking the cams with the draw stops hitting very close to the same.  My Z5 cam Pro Edge is the same also.


Like Kris said bareshaft flight is very very sensitive to a shooters grip and some bows bareshaft tune easier than others.  The only downside to a Binary Cam bow IMO is that you are limited to moving the rest in/out unless shimming the cams.  With a Hybrid cam you have the luxury of having Yokes on the buss cable to move the center shot.


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## Cole Henry (Aug 7, 2014)

Not to be off topic but looking at Reo's anchor point at how low it is, almost to his chin for example. Is this the proper and correct anchor point? I personally shoot with a much higher anchor point which is pretty much corner of string to slightly below corner of mouth. Which this brings my peep much closer to string loop. Is this a problem or are anchor points not necessarily an issue as long as you can consistantly replicate it each time?


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## Kris87 (Aug 7, 2014)

Cole Henry said:


> Not to be off topic but looking at Reo's anchor point at how low it is, almost to his chin for example. Is this the proper and correct anchor point? I personally shoot with a much higher anchor point which is pretty much corner of string to slightly below corner of mouth. Which this brings my peep much closer to string loop. Is this a problem or are anchor points not necessarily an issue as long as you can consistantly replicate it each time?



You will frequently see low anchor points like that on target archers.  I consider Jesse Broadwater's form to look perfect in about every way, and his anchor is probably lower than Reo's.  A low anchor like this helps keep the release arm in the proper position, proper direction, and it keeps the back shoulder down.  If you've ever heard people having issues holding low on target, and calling it target panic, it's more related to how high tha back shoulder is.  GRIV is the expert on this, he did some good videos recently for Last Chance Archery.  Try and find those and give them a look. He does a very simple explanation of proper release arm/shoulder position.


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## Cole Henry (Aug 7, 2014)

Kris87 said:


> You will frequently see low anchor points like that on target archers.  I consider Jesse Broadwater's form to look perfect in about every way, and his anchor is probably lower than Reo's.  A low anchor like this helps keep the release arm in the proper position, proper direction, and it keeps the back shoulder down.  If you've ever heard people having issues holding low on target, and calling it target panic, it's more related to how high tha back shoulder is.  GRIV is the expert on this, he did some good videos recently for Last Chance Archery.  Try and find those and give them a look. He does a very simple explanation of proper release arm/shoulder position.



Great thanks


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## C Cape (Aug 7, 2014)

Figured I would check my bareshaft flight on my E35 today since I haven't messed with it much and report the findings on here since we had been talking about bareshaft tuning some.

The test subject is a 28/67* Elite Energy 35 shooting 429 Gr Easton Deep 6 FMJ 400's at 281 FPS.  It has a set of ThreadZ custom strings and the cams are timed perfectly. I honestly think a 330 would bareshaft a touch better but the weight on the 400's is right where I want to be.





Starting out the bow was shooting a perfect bullet hole through paper with the rest set slightly nock high which resulted in this bareshaft flight at 17 yards.









I adjusted the rest slightly to the right and obtained this at 17 yards.










Next I moved to 30 yards which is just about as far as I can shoot in the shop resulting in this flight.





That was the result in the 3-4 groups I shot with the bareshaft shooting slightly nock low.  I could lower the rest just a fuzz and straighten it up but I don't want to go any lower since it's already nock high slightly.  In my findings a stiffer shaft would get normally get rid of this as well but I feel this is still pretty solid and will have no problem allowing me to shoot any broadhead out of this setup.  Hope this might help someone in bareshaft tuning your setup.  If you have any questions feel free to PM me or I'm sure Kris would be more than willing to help as well.

Also, I will say bareshaft tuning a hybrid cam bow is a whole different bag of tricks.  Adjusting cam sync and Yoke tuning are extremely helpful when bareshaft tuning a hybrid cam bow but will require a bow press to do so.


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## Kris87 (Aug 7, 2014)

Good shooting.  What did the centershot end up with you moving the rest inside like that?


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## C Cape (Aug 7, 2014)

Kris87 said:


> Good shooting.  What did the centershot end up with you moving the rest inside like that?



Just under 3/4".  About inline with most of the 35's I have setup.  Some have been a touch closer.


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