# Installing a new trigger...



## Fork Horn (Jul 1, 2017)

How much trouble is it to install a new trigger in a Remington 700?  I've watched a few videos and it seems simple enough.  Is this something a person of low intelligence and also a person that lacks common sense can do?


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## jglenn (Jul 3, 2017)

fairly straight forward swap.. two pins and the bolt release spring to deal with.. 

if you've never messed with the 700 trigger before take a few pictures of the bolt release spring in place prior to taking the old trigger off..  Hopefully your replacement trigger has slave pins in to which makes the installation easier..  If not the pins are 5/32 if memory serves so a straight punch that size will help with alignment on install..

also the pins are normally  two different lengths so keep track of which one goes front or back.

be sure and do a safety check afterwards..


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## Ajohnson0587 (Jul 3, 2017)

People with little to no common sense should steer clear of assembling, building, and modifying anything... 

But yes they are very simple to install.


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## Jester896 (Jul 6, 2017)

yes, it is fairly simple to me.  There are 3 parts to the trigger.  Here is a good image.

front = muzzle end
right = as you are mounting the gun.

remove the bolt from the rifle after you have checked to see if it is unloaded.  If you don't know how to do this stop now.

remove the action from the stock.  An ADL stock has 3 screws to remove and a BDL has 2.  On both the front and rear screw are different lengths and shouldn't be interchanged.  The ADL has a smaller diameter screw in front of the trigger guard.

there are 2 pins holding the trigger, sear, and bolt release to the action. Neither of these pins need to be completely removed to get the trigger out.

Gently tap the rear pin right to left trying not to tap it all of the way out...just until the trigger will swing a bit.  It will keep the bolt stop from coming out and the sometimes tedious reassembly.  Take a picture with your phone as mentioned in case you have to reassemble it.

Next lift the bolt stop lever to expose the front pin on the left side.  Tap it almost out or out is OK from left to right.  This is also the pin that holds the sear and trigger together.  On re assemble install the front pin first to keep the sear and spring together with the trigger. Tap the pin back in until it bottoms out on the bolt stop.  Now install the rear pin.  Check the bolt stop for ease of operation.  If it is binding (it probable is since I told you to bottom the pin against it) take your punch and place it on the bolt catch and strike it to move the pin back flush with the action.

Check trigger and bolt catch function after reinstalling the bolt.

This may sound simpler than it really is but that is about it.  Reassemble the rifle and torque it to the proper specs for what you have.

If I left something out someone chime in.


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## coltc (Sep 15, 2017)

Brother if I can swap one out, I'm sure you can.


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## wrhinehart (Sep 19, 2017)

The first time for me it took 1/2 hour.
Glen is correct. the bolt release is the only issue

I used an 1/8" punch
torque to just tight.
60 Inch pounds on the rear and front screws.
30 inch pounds on the front trigger guard screw


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## Jester896 (Sep 19, 2017)

60 in lbs is what I torque my synthetic stocks with a FL bedding block...are you sure those are the right specs?


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## wrhinehart (Sep 23, 2017)

That's according to Brownells


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## Jester896 (Sep 23, 2017)

for some reason I was under the impression that 60/65 in lbs was for pillar or bedding block type stocks and 40/45 in lbs was for wood and factory synthetics.  Not even sure the front trigger guard screw should be very tight...seen too many over tightened.  All it does is hold the trigger guard down...the other 2 secure the action to the stock whether it is ADL or BDL


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