# Transplanting Muscadines



## Mars (Oct 5, 2012)

I have miscadines scattered all over my property and all through the woods and most of the vines make muscadines. I would like to make some wine and jelly next year but I dont want to have to roam all over the woods to pick them. My questions is two fold. First, is it possible to transplant these vines to a place where I will be able to access them a little easier and if so, what is the best way to do it. I would think the best time to do it would be when they are dormant in the winter but Im just guessing. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.


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## BriarPatch99 (Oct 5, 2012)

Vines are transplantable from one location to another ... the question is would it be worth the effort over planting a new vine.  The amount of work involved in moving a vine ... would depend on how big the root system it is ... the top of the vine will have to be pruned in order to train it on your trellis. I have moved them so large that it took a tractor and a lift boom to move them and I had to dig a 6' diameter by 3' deep hole to put it in.   The first year or so you will have limited fruit production ... because the plant will place most of it's effort replacing the vine. Plenty of water is a must until the vine is growing good again and has re-established the root system. 

The dormant season is the "best" time, but they can be moved most anytime .... provided you keep the vine watered. The big vine above was moved in July ... it was watered regularly and the vine bleed profusely from the pruning/trimming... it produced new growth with in a few months. 

It would be a lot less effort to plant new vines and trellis them as you like ... unless the vines you have are very desirable vines...


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## dick7.62 (Oct 5, 2012)

I have transplanted vines from the woods before.  I found a vine loaded with huge sweet muscadines.  I dug some rooted portions of the vine and set it out at home.  At home they are about as sweet as lemons and don't produce much.  They came from red clay to black dirt and moved about 60 miles farther south.  I don't know if that affected them or not.  Winter would be the best time to transplant.
I have many domestic varieties and they are all better than my wild variety(at least since I brought it home).  I have some of the newer patented varieties from Isons and am impressed with them although they are still young.  They make sooner, and are sweeter and larger than older varieties and are loaded on young vines.
I agree with Briarpatch that you could transplant wild ones but would be better off with domesticated varieties.


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## blues brother (Oct 5, 2012)

All of my vines came from Ison's. They all produce awesome fruit.
I would get some in the next month or so and plant them. It will take a couple of years to produce fruit. In the meantime I would be willing to let you come and pick some of mine.


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## lightningstrike13 (Oct 7, 2012)

Ison's is an awesome place to get your vines.


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## Mars (Oct 8, 2012)

I was afraid that it would be more trouble than its worth but I would only be moving them a few hundred yards so the soil conditions would be relatively the same. My primary reason for wanting to move them is that they are already producing good fruit and Im impatient and didnt want to wait a year or two for new vines to start putting out.


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## shakey gizzard (Oct 8, 2012)

Mars said:


> I was afraid that it would be more trouble than its worth but I would only be moving them a few hundred yards so the soil conditions would be relatively the same. My primary reason for wanting to move them is that they are already producing good fruit and Im impatient and didnt want to wait a year or two for new vines to start putting out.



Transplant shock will reduce yields!


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## dick7.62 (Oct 9, 2012)

Mars said:


> I was afraid that it would be more trouble than its worth but I would only be moving them a few hundred yards so the soil conditions would be relatively the same. My primary reason for wanting to move them is that they are already producing good fruit and Im impatient and didnt want to wait a year or two for new vines to start putting out.



I seriously doubt that vines transplanted from the woods would would produce quicker than potted vines from a nursery.  For example a Late Fry(patented variety from Ison's) in 1 gallon pots made a few the first year and was loaded the second year.  Another Late Fry produced the second year.  As mentioned above, transplant shock will delay production.  There will be less transplant shock from a container grown plant.  Also remember you will need a pollinator within 50 feet since wild female muscadines do not produce pollen.  The above mentioned Late Fry is self fertile, producing fruit and pollen.
Ison's has some good information on their website: http://www.isons.com/muscadine_cultivation.htm


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## GAFLAjd (Oct 18, 2012)

*This from UF IFAS http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/hs100*

Propagation
In the wild, muscadine grapes are propagated sexually from seed and asexually by a natural tendency of shoots to form roots when they make contact with the ground. Muscadine grapes are very easy to propagate asexually. Asexual propagation produces a plant that is genetically identical to the mother plant. Propagation from seed will produce plants that vary genetically and that are not true to type. The most common propagation method is to make 2- to 3-node-long cuttings from shoots 1/4 to 3/8 inches in diameter in June or July. Simply insert the basal end of the cutting in a light textured soil or potting media. Keep the roots and leaves moist until roots have formed (usually about 2 weeks). A mist bed can be inexpensively constructed for this purpose. The buds in the leaf axils will break and form shoots shortly thereafter. Dipping the basal ends of the cuttings in Rootone® or other formulations of napthelene acetic acid can enhance rooting percentages, but is not required. 

Another method to asexually propagate muscadine grapes is called pegging. To use this method, wound a low growing shoot by making successive cuts in the bark and then cover it with moist soil. Leave the shoot tip exposed. After about a month, roots should have formed, and the shoot may be severed from the mother vine. Pegging can be done in the summer months and is most useful to propagate a few vines. For mass propagation, stem cuttings are preferable. Virtually hundreds of cuttings can be rooted from a single mother vine.


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