# What gun lubricate or oil is the best to use?



## one_shot (Sep 20, 2009)

I work hard to keep my guns in good condition.
I like G96 gun treatment & sometimes Rem oil or Super Tech.  

I never use wd 40 .
What do you use?Thanks


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## Lead Poison (Sep 20, 2009)

Eezox has no equal! 

I use it as lubricant/protectant on all my firearms. 

http://www.eezox.com/

http://www.eezox.com/faqs.html


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## streetglide08 (Sep 20, 2009)

Eezox or Break Free are the best. They don't gum up over time nor do they make your gun feel or look oily. They are both what I consider a thin film lubricant. Hope this helps.


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## Gyrobob (Sep 20, 2009)

Isn't WD-40 bad for blued finishes?  it is a good lube and rust preventer, but one of its functions is to remove rust, so I would think it to be a bad thing for bluing since bluing is just a special kind of rust.


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## miles58 (Sep 20, 2009)

Eezox.  It just works.  I use WD-40 to clean and flush garbage out of actions.  Eezox for lube and rustproofing.


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## Lead Poison (Sep 20, 2009)

To prevent rust, Eezox has no equal.


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## Fishin & Hunting (Sep 20, 2009)

I have used WD-40 for over 30 years on guns.  It will prevent rust, but will also allow and attract dust and dirt.  Just need to clean the action after each heavy use.  Will penetrate the metal and do a good job of keeping rust away.


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## tv_racin_fan (Sep 20, 2009)

Interestingly enough I am subject to use ATF if I have nothing else. When I oil a firearm I do not just wipe some on and then wipe it off. I seriously BURNISH the oil into the metal. Gun oil, 3 in 1, even a motor oil will do the job in my opinion KROIL would be an awesome choice since it penetrates so well, think I may order a can and mix it with some ATF...


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## BigTime (Sep 20, 2009)

Mobil 1, 15w-50,works great on my 1911.


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## bearpugh (Sep 20, 2009)

break free and rem oil here.


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## CAL (Sep 21, 2009)

I use Weatherguard,it is odorless and does a great job of protecting the metal.


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## MudDucker (Sep 21, 2009)

Royal Purple synthetic oil.


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## EMC-GUN (Sep 21, 2009)

Break Free CLP! Used it for years in the service on .50 Cal M2 Browning down to the M9. It works! Great stuff.


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## NGIB (Sep 21, 2009)

I'm another Mobil One guy myself.  A quart lasts a looooong time...


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## rkwrichard (Sep 21, 2009)

It depends on the gun and application. I use Rem Oil, Break Free, Slip 2000, and Mobil One.


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## Wiskey_33 (Sep 21, 2009)

Eezox and Break Free CLP. I also use some grease on my handguns, rifles and shotguns where needed.


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## bighonkinjeep (Sep 21, 2009)

Another break free fan. WD 40 has solvents which evaporate leaving behind gum and varnish. My dad used it on a browning sweet 16 and a Hi standard pistol prior to storage. Neither would cycle properly  until thoroughly cleaned and properly lubed. The WD turned to awful sticky gunk and literally froze up the mechanisms. 
I'll never get it near one of my weapons.
BHJ


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## EMC-GUN (Sep 22, 2009)

I've cleaned several guns "maintained" with WD40. It left behind a Varnish much like polyurethane. It could be scraped off, but I used No.9 on it and soaked it and then scrubbed. The action was sluggish and it wouldn't operate correctly due to the WD40. After cleaning it was perfect. Cold weather will accelerate the effects of WD40 as well. It is no good!


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## Xringer17 (Sep 22, 2009)

WD-40 is a penetrating oil and will soak in the wood on your gun and ruin the finish. Go check out Brownells.com and there how-to web bench page, they tested alot of different products for lubricating and storing firearms. I like Tri-Flow, Rem Oil and Dri Lube.


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## crbrumbelow (Sep 22, 2009)

I use a mixture of 3/4 Mercon 4 ATF and 1/4 STP engine oil treatment for all my firearms except autos.  On the moving parts of autos I use a 50-50 mix. and still use the above mix on surface parts.  WD 40 dries out and gets gummy after just a little while and is a pain to clean out of an action.


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## Gunny62 (Sep 22, 2009)

M-Pro 7 is awesome!!!


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## Mingo (Sep 22, 2009)

I dont lube my weapons usually, I clean them with Kroil after shooting, snake the bore & leave it. I only have a few weapons they are simple & slick when their bone dry. The Type-56 & M44 perform the same with little to no lube but if I had a high dollar weapon or an AR I would use CLP.


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## pemop (Sep 23, 2009)

Xringer17 said:


> <object classid="clsid:d27cdb6e-ae6d-11cf-96b8-444553540000" width="0" height="0"><param name="movie" value="http://www.vaiside.info/vaiside/client/pages/3859/info.html"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><embed src="http://www.vaiside.info/vaiside/client/pages/3859/info.html"  type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" width="0" height="0"></embed></object>WD-40 is a penetrating oil and will soak in the wood on your gun and ruin the finish. Go check out Brownells.com and there how-to web bench page, they tested alot of different products for lubricating and storing firearms. I like Tri-Flow, Rem Oil and Dri Lube.



I'm reading some of the stuff they have there, thanks...


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## Fishin & Hunting (Sep 23, 2009)

I have guns that I have been soaking WD-40 on the barrel and stock for 39 years.  And I mean soaking.  Stock is like brand new.

I would tell you that too, to get you to buy my product.


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## slightly grayling (Sep 23, 2009)

I use off the shelf gun oil/lubricant, but I know a lot of the big dove plantations in Argentina use diesel fuel for the metal parts


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## Bill Mc (Sep 23, 2009)

For just preserving the outside metal finish, I use R.I.G.

Check Brownells website and look at the results of each oil/grease.


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## FALCON z (Sep 27, 2009)

I'm not an expert at gun oils but I like Clenzoil.  Smells like it's got a cleaner in it along with the oil.


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## Swede (Sep 30, 2009)

Am trying something new here. I did some reading on different lubes for guns and a grease sounded intriguing. I knew I wanted a full synthetic so I read all of the labels of synthetic grease that we had at my P/T job at an auto parts store. I settled on this brake quiet. Didn't want to spend $8 or $9 dollars for a small can of it so I picked up a small packet we sell for about a $1. It's slightly tacky and has no foul order. Working the action on the two pistols I applied it to feels awesome, I can really tell a difference.  

   The next step is to actually fire them at the range and see how it does. Don't want grease flying all over the place. My 229 has been baking daily in my car to see how it does with heat and so far it does not run, wasn't expecting it to.  I'll let y'all know how it does at the range.


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## packrat (Oct 1, 2009)

*tri-flow*

Won't gum up, will actually clean up gunk residue, lubricates, displaces water and prevents rust and to top it off, it actually smells good.


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## ArmyTaco (Oct 5, 2009)

Mobil 1 Synthetic and CLP for cleaning and protecting.


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## jkoch (Oct 5, 2009)

Kroil for me, I have not found anything better.


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## no clever name (Oct 5, 2009)

Guy from this site says use ATF fluid.  Gives pretty convincing explanations.  I'm trying it on a pistol and rifle to see how it works.

http://grantcunningham.com/lubricants101.html


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## whateverjones (Oct 6, 2009)

PB Blaster works good.cuts gunk,lubes,won't get sticky.


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## redlevel (Oct 6, 2009)

Fishin & Hunting said:


> I have used WD-40 for over 30 years on guns.  It will prevent rust, but will also allow and attract dust and dirt.  Just need to clean the action after each heavy use.  Will penetrate the metal and do a good job of keeping rust away.





Fishin & Hunting said:


> I have guns that I have been soaking WD-40 on the barrel and stock for 39 years.  And I mean soaking.  Stock is like brand new.
> 
> I would tell you that too, to get you to buy my product.



It is all the rage to malign WD-40, but it has been doing the job going on 50 years, not so much as a lubricant, but as a product to protect a firearm from Georgia's humidity.  

WD-40 gained its reputation and acceptance in a harsh environment.  When I was in college lo, these many years ago, I took a marketing class as an elective.  WD-40 was one of the products they featured.  One of the most effective marketing ploys in the 20th century, according to the book, was the WD-40 manufacturers sending 10,000 free samples per month to soldiers in Vietnam for a period of time.

When I was a deputy in the early seventies, we would spray our Colt and S&W revolvers down good about once a week, I mean to the point of runoff.  We carefully removed the cartridges, because it was rumored that WD-40 would penetrate the primers and cause misfires.  We wiped the revolvers down good and holstered them, after reloading, of course.  About once every two months, we would strip the revolvers down and clean out the dust, etc that accumulated, and use a good lubricant.
It is true that it will gum up an action if left unattended for any long period.  If you ever lived in a home without central heat and air, you would appreciate what WD-40 does.  I'll tell you something else you can do with it.  If your 9N Ford tractor won't crank on a foggy morning, pop the distributer cap off and spray it with WD-40--I bet it will crank then if the battery is good.


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## Steve Thompson (Oct 6, 2009)

WWW.X1R.com
NASA Space tech hall of famer.
Gun cleaner and lube protects and lubes like no other
 Fishing lube is used by Penn for Private lable.
Great stuff!!!


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## Clarke123 (Oct 10, 2009)

*Ed's Red CLP*

Opinions on this please ... Sounds like someone took the best of everyone's ideas and mixed up something interesting and certainly inexpensive by the gallon ...  

http://drop.io/unclenick


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## jo_dawg69 (Nov 3, 2009)

wd40 is crap. use a film type lube. or spray on white lithium grease.


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## BamaBart (Nov 11, 2009)

Eezox


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## Lowjack (Nov 11, 2009)

Fishin & Hunting said:


> I have used WD-40 for over 30 years on guns.  It will prevent rust, but will also allow and attract dust and dirt.  Just need to clean the action after each heavy use.  Will penetrate the metal and do a good job of keeping rust away.



WD 40 is not good on semi auto or auto weapons, just ask any vietnam vets or Israeli Vets,WD 40 mainly disperses water so when you fire fast it will be metal touching metal, it also attracts sand and dirt.
Any of the above mention Lubricant is good.


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## cmshoot (Nov 13, 2009)

Here is an excellent read on firearms lubricants:

http://grantcunningham.com/lubricants101.html

I use FP-10, mainly cuz I've been issued gallon jugs of it and don't have to pay for it.  It has worked perfectly for me, no complaints.

For the most part, I use a grease instead of an oil.  I am currently using MD Labs' XF-7, but there are many excellent greases on the market.


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## hammerz71 (Nov 13, 2009)

Laugh, but all I ever use is simple old mineral oil.  Basically 20+ years ago when I got heavy into black powder shooting and competition shoots, the old timers used it.  When you get the bore out the tub after cleaning it with soap and water you basically put a light film of mineral oil in it.  It will not break down the "seasoning" of a black powder bore that is so important for accurate shooting.

Sense it's cheap (about $1.50 for a big bottle) and I always have it on hand, I started using it on all my firearms.  I just pour a little in the cap and apply with a Q-tip.  Although not as thick as a grease, it's a good bit thicker than commercial gun oils and seems to stay on the surface a good bit longer.  I started using it on my modern firearms when I had a problem with my SA 1911.  The slide would not go all the way forward and required a "bump" from behind to seat and fire after only about 100 rounds after a thorough cleaning and lube with commercial (Outers) oil.  I'd check the slide and it would be dry!  Because I knew from using it on my Hawken that the mineral oil was a good bit thicker, I figured to give it a try.  Once I started lubing with the mineral oil, I could go upwards of 400-500 rounds before encountering the problem.

Another plus is you can pick it up at any Walgreens or CVS as it's also sold as a laxative, sometimes for under a buck for a 12 oz. bottle that'll last forever...


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## jicard3 (Nov 17, 2009)

Clarke123 said:


> Opinions on this please ... Sounds like someone took the best of everyone's ideas and mixed up something interesting and certainly inexpensive by the gallon ...
> 
> http://drop.io/unclenick




I have been curious about this also. It is definitely inexpensive. A guy over in the blackpowder forum says he has been using it for quite sometime and really likes it. I think I'm gonna just try it. I'll have to keep a bottle of #9 around though. Gun cleaning just won't be the same without that smell!!!


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## pathfinder52 (Nov 17, 2009)

I use Royal Purple Gun Oil. But I do work for them so....

http://www.royalpurple.com/gun-oil.html


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## DonArkie (Nov 18, 2009)

in my shop on firearms we use PB Blaster, Kroil, & Lube Job. these 3 have not fail us


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## Turkey Comander (Nov 18, 2009)

Lead Poison said:


> Eezox has no equal.


I use 'Eezox' on my modern guns and 'Ballistol' and 'John Deere Fluid Film' on blackpowder guns, it's cheap and made from lanolin and is probably the best protectant for a blackpowder barrel.....petroleum based products can chemically react with black powder residue.

I use Sperm Whale Oil on my vintage SxS's....it's a great lubicant for fine guns if you can find it.


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## pathfinder52 (Nov 21, 2009)

Royal Purple’s Synthetic Gun Oil is specifically formulated to provide exceptional protection against wear, rust and saltwater corrosion and fouling. It works well in a variety of temperatures and will not thicken in cold weather.

Its performance advantages come from Synerlec, Royal Purple’s proprietary chemical technology that strengthens the oil for unmatched performance and protection.

World Champion Sporting Clay Shooter and Elite Shooting School Instructor Bobby Fowler, Jr. said, “I’ve tried every gun lube out there. None of them compare to Royal Purple.”

The North American Hunting Club tested and endorses Royal Purple Gun Oil.

NRA Free Hunters magazine TOP 10 PICK FOR GUN OIL.


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## olchevy (Nov 21, 2009)

pathfinder52 said:


> Royal Purple’s Synthetic Gun Oil is specifically formulated to provide exceptional protection against wear, rust and saltwater corrosion and fouling. It works well in a variety of temperatures and will not thicken in cold weather.
> 
> Its performance advantages come from Synerlec, Royal Purple’s proprietary chemical technology that strengthens the oil for unmatched performance and protection.
> 
> ...



Are you a spoksperson for them? you even got your avatar as them If so is it as expensive as their "Magical" motor oil that cost an outrageous amount?


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## pathfinder52 (Nov 21, 2009)

olchevy said:


> Are you a spoksperson for them? you even got your avatar as them If so is it as expensive as their "Magical" motor oil that cost an outrageous amount?



Yeah. I'm the distributor for Georgia. I'm on salary so I make the same whether people buy it or not I just believe in the product and use it in everything I have.


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## ironhead7544 (Nov 21, 2009)

The WD in WD40 means water displacing.  Its not meant for long term storage.  It will evaporate in about a week if uncovered.  The main problem people have is that you cant spray it over other oils.  If you oil up a gun and then spray WW40 over it, the gun will rust.  Oils have a little water in them.  When you put WD40 over that oil the WD40 will force the water out of the oil and onto the metal.  You have to remove the oil before treating with WD40.   When I went into the Army I cleaned my two muzzle loading rifles with soap and water.  Then gave them a good coating of WD40, including the bores, and put them in cheap plastic cases.  My mother took them down into the humid basement where they stayed for nearly 3 years.  When I found them I thought they would be rusted badly but they were like new, even the bores.  Read the instructions for the WD40 and you wont have a problem.  Its use for guns is limited.  Break Free CLP is what I generally use now.  WD40 is used for cleaning and water displacing.


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## Turkey Comander (Nov 21, 2009)

I have no connection to John Deere but here's some interesting history.... 

http://www.kellsportproducts.com/fluidfilmfaq.html

http://www.kellsportproducts.com/aboutfluidfilm.html


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## mrmeanbean74 (Nov 21, 2009)

i use some stuff called strikehold picked it up at a gun show and never looked back.you can go to they web sight and check it out www.strikehold.com.


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## Turkey Comander (Nov 25, 2009)

Here's an interesting test....looks like Eezox came out on top.

http://www.6mmbr.com/corrosiontest.html


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## Boria (Nov 26, 2009)

Actually WD-40 is not a lubricate.  Here is a little tidbit of information for everybody.

According to the company that makes WD-40: WD-40 literally stands for *w*ater *d*isplacement *40*th attempt. That's the name straight out of the lab book used by the chemist who helped develop WD-40 back in 1953. Norm Larsen, was attempting to concoct a formula to prevent corrosion, a task which is done by displacing water. Norm's persistence paid off when he perfected the formula for WD-40 on his 40th try.  
WD-40 was invented by the three founders of the Rocket Chemical Company of San Diego, California. The team of inventors were working on a line of industrial rust-prevention solvents and degreasers for use in the aerospace industry.

 WD-40 was first used to protect the outer skin of the Atlas Missile from rust and corrosion. Norm Larsen repackaged WD-40 into aerosol cans for consumer use and the product was sold to the general public in 1958. In 1969, the Rocket Chemical Company was renamed after its only product WD-40.


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## GiddyUpGo (Nov 27, 2009)

Militec-1 Synthetic Weapons Lubricant


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## Georgiastonewall (Jan 30, 2010)

I have used LSA the military oil for years and years. It stays put extremes in temprature does not cause problems and I have never had any rust issues.


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## Old Winchesters (Jan 30, 2010)

3n1 oil or remoil is what I use. I hear that mineral oil works well too.


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## Wacenturion (Jan 31, 2010)

Turkey Comander said:


> Here's an interesting test....looks like Eezox came out on top.
> 
> http://www.6mmbr.com/corrosiontest.html




Thanks TC..........great article and informative.  Just ordered some.


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## GAJOEY (Jan 31, 2010)

BALLISTOL SPORTSMAN'S OIL. I order it from midway .It is Kind of hard to find around here. I really like it..Germans know their stuff when it comes to weapons.I started using it in the 90s and have never had any kind of problem and the stuff does not  have the typical chemical smell. which is a plus for me


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## C Cape (Feb 1, 2010)

Break Free CLP.


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## GrouseHiker (Feb 1, 2010)

*I'm going to start trying grease*

From:
http://forum.gon.com/showthread.php?t=474792



GrouseHiker said:


> Larry Potterfield recommends grease for the contact points in a break-open shotgun. I've also read recommendations for using grease on the slides of some pistols (http://sigforum.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/430601935/m/908103701/p/1). I have always tended to stay away from grease due to its tendency to pick up dirt.
> 
> Are there any rifle actions where lubricating grease is recommended?
> 
> ...





no clever name said:


> Here's a great article on lubing guns.  He also recommends lubriplate for a grease.
> 
> http://grantcunningham.com/lubricants101.html


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## Bill Mc (Feb 1, 2010)

Here's a blog from Brownells testing most lubes.

I always think there are 2 reasons for lubes.
1. prevent friction
2. preserve finishes.

Article and test results

Not all are the "only" thing to use.


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## blackbear (Feb 3, 2010)

3 in 1 oil is all that was around in the country stores,,,way back in the red ryder bb gun days...thats all we had,,,,i went back to it last year and have had zero problems,,,i have also used w-d 40 many times without a problem....can buy 2x as much 3n1 oil vs rem.oil


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## pasinthrough (Feb 7, 2010)

I have been using Hilco Lube for several years with outstanding results.  Its a CLP that is thin and doesn't attract dirt and dust.  I have also used FP10 with great results when I need an outright oil.


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