# INFO on Hawken Rifle!!!!!



## jp94 (Sep 27, 2010)

Hey guys I was wondering if anyone could tell me where to find a diagram of the way the double trigger and lock work on a Hawken Rifle. I have been restoring the old Hawken 50 cal that you guys helped me with earlier this month. When I put it back together it will not fire.  The lock works when i trigger it by hand and the trigger works also but when I put it back together I can cock it and set the trigger but it will not fire.  Any help would be appreciated.


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## smithey (Sep 27, 2010)

Might be you have the lock to tight in the stock. Back off on the two screws holding the lock in and try it.


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## smithey (Sep 27, 2010)

Sorry about that meant one screw. Must be old age.


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## Flintrock (Sep 27, 2010)

jp94 said:


> Hey guys I was wondering if anyone could tell me where to find a diagram of the way the double trigger and lock work on a Hawken Rifle. I have been restoring the old Hawken 50 cal that you guys helped me with earlier this month. When I put it back together it will not fire.  The lock works when i trigger it by hand and the trigger works also but when I put it back together I can cock it and set the trigger but it will not fire.  Any help would be appreciated.



.
this can be a number of things and all are simple
.
#1..What Smithy said. Make sure the lock screw is not too tight .This can put unneeded pressure on the lock plate and will keep all the parts moving freely.

#2. Take the lock out and loosen the screws and retighten from a tight position to a firm but not too tight poistion....(The bridle screw may be too tight to let the tumbler move freely and the sear screw may be too tight to let the sear disengage the tumbler .)

#3 If you got the wood wet in the lock housing area. The wood may be a little swollen and is not letting some or all the parts move...You can check this by making sure this area is dry .Put the lock together and put a little ink from a marker or some other sub   that will rub off. Put the lock in the gun and cock it. If there is ink transfer to the wood then you simply remove a little of the wood and recheck.

#4  Check the triggers and make sure the trigger main spring is tight. If it is not tight the trigger will not have enough force to disengage the sear from the tumbler.

#5  Set the double set triggers before you replace them back in the rifle..  ....If you do not set them prior to putting them back the upper part that engages the sear may be above the sear instead of below and it needs to be below because the trigger goes up to strike the sear.
.
Hope this helps


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## jp94 (Sep 28, 2010)

After setting the double triggers should I put the lock back in the stock first or the trigger back in first.

I will take some pictures and post this afternoon. Maybe yall can see something I don't.


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## Flintrock (Sep 28, 2010)

jp94 said:


> After setting the double triggers should I put the lock back in the stock first or the trigger back in first.
> 
> I will take some pictures and post this afternoon. Maybe yall can see something I don't.



Either one can go first. Make sure the lock is not cocked and the triggers are set when you replace the parts. This    It will not hurt anything if you dont do this but it keeps the sear from getting tangled in the triggers when you are putting it all back together.
,
Also make sure you spray a little oil inside the lock plate.


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## Flintrock (Sep 28, 2010)

Post a good close up picture of the inside of the lock and a side view of the triggers out of the gun.
,
Once inside the lock is the hammer  falling at all or it it stopping at half cock ?
Is the lock going back all the way or is it only going back to half cock when you are trying to shoot it ?
Will the triggers work without setting the back trigger or do you have to set it to make the hammer fall.?
Will the triggers set ?


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## Darkhorse (Sep 29, 2010)

Something is binding. If both work outside then both should work inside. Will the hammer fall when the triggers are unset?
Check where your sear bar (attached to the lock, all the way at the back) touches the wood inside the lock mortice. The thing here is "It should'nt touch at all", look for a tiny shiney spot on the wood. It may be hard to see so try moving your angle of eye and light back and forth.
Most of the time this is the fix for the problem you describe.


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## jp94 (Sep 29, 2010)

Thanks for all the suggestions. I will try and work on the gun tonight after my two year old goes to sleep. I have some pics to post but they are not uploading for some reason. I will try that  again tonight also.


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## jp94 (Sep 30, 2010)

Thanks everybody that posted suggestions. I got the trigger and lock to work last night. Now the only problem is the trigger is to stiff. Does anyone know how to adjust the pull on the trigger.  

Then this weekend I will be trying to re-brown the barrel.


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## Flintrock (Sep 30, 2010)

jp94 said:


> Thanks everybody that posted suggestions. I got the trigger and lock to work last night. Now the only problem is the trigger is to stiff. Does anyone know how to adjust the pull on the trigger.
> 
> Then this weekend I will be trying to re-brown the barrel.



There should be a little set screw  between the triggers.
.
Screw it in to give it a lighter trigger pull.
If you screw it in too far the triggers will not set and then you back off of it a little until you get it where you like it.


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## jp94 (Sep 30, 2010)

Here is a pic of the set screws. Should I adjust both screws all the way in and back them off both equally. Or should I do the front or back first?


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## Flintrock (Sep 30, 2010)

jp94 said:


> Here is a pic of the set screws. Should I adjust both screws all the way in and back them off both equally. Or should I do the front or back first?



There are basically three different ways 
double set triggers are made/installed.

one- the rear trigger is the set trigger.
and you have to pull the front to make it fire.
two- the opposite of the above. the front is te set trigger and pull the rear to fire
three. the front trigger will make the rifle fire without using the rear but setting the rear will make the tfront easy to pull.
Based on the above. You may want to adjust adjust one or both.
Normally the set screw bewteen the triggers is the one that is screwed in to adjust the stiffness of the front trigger to make it a "hair "trigger .You should be able to figure that out when you remove the triggers and line it up with the sear and see were the trigger is strikiing the sear (. Example..You pull the rear trigger to set the front trigger...You pull the front trigger to disengage the rear and the rear trigger flies up and strikes the sear to make it fire. The front trigger does not touch the sear .It is the rear trigger that is doing the work .In this case ,you will want to screw in the screw that makes the front trigger easy to pull as that is the one you are pulling on to make it fire.)
.


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## jp94 (Oct 5, 2010)

Hey! I finally got the ML back together and and everything working. Thanks for all the help from everyone on this thread.  I still need to rebrown the barrel but i think I will weight till November to try it. I just have one more question what type of sabot or round ball should I shoot out of this ML?  I would really like to take it with me to Peidmont later this month.


I will try and post pictures for all of you that helped me out so much later today.


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